Hi all!
Evening. Dark. Having finished the working day, I get into the car, start it, turn on the music and lights. But it doesn't turn on. Damn, I think the light bulbs have burned out, and besides, both of them at once - well, there’s nothing to be done - I’ll have to get home using foglights. When I got home I decided to check the fuses. There are 2 of them - one for the right, one for the left headlight. The fuses are OK. I know that I won’t sleep peacefully until I figure out the cause and the problem itself. I checked the lamps - they were also intact. This already seemed strange to me and sowed even more anxiety inside me. The lights are on, the fog lights are on, and that’s it. The low and high beams do not light up and, accordingly, the high beam icon does not light up on the dashboard. However, if you turn the steering column switch “towards you”, that is, blink the distant ones, the icon on the dashboard and the headlights light up properly. After reading on the Internet, I determined that most likely the culprit of my problem is the LCM (light control module), it does not turn on the “low beam”, and without the “low beam” there is no “far” one. I pulled it out of the car and took it home - the connector and two edge latches. The unit itself is also quite easy to disassemble, except for the headlight turning knob itself. I was tormented with her, I just didn’t want to stick my head out of the block. And without this, you won’t be able to get the board itself. In the end, I pulled it out with pliers - I rolled the rag into many layers (so as not to scratch it), grabbed it by the handle and pulled very, very hard (I thought I would break it, but I was lucky), and pulled it out.
I examined the board, contact group, soldering and found no obvious signs of failure. I took a tester and began to understand the circuit - what should “ring” where and how. I realized that the contacts marked with the same numbers are parallel, but the “ones” do not ring. I took a closer look and found a barely visible crack in the solder on pin 1. See picture
As a result: I took a soldering iron, soldered all the contacts, cleaned the contact group strips from dirt, took a photo)
I ran to the car, connected the board and... voila - everything works as it should. I went home to put everything back in place. I assembled it quickly, without any problems, and installed it in 2 clicks. As a result, I saved 1200 rubles. on the new block.Rad. Maybe this info will help someone. Thanks to all.
The steering column switch is a long-standing problem with front-wheel drive cars. Lada Kalina was no exception and therefore it is difficult to avoid breakdowns in this regard. Most often, the steering column switches on the Lada Kalina break down gradually, let’s put it this way.
When driving with the low beams on, the high beams will occasionally turn on and flash. If you find such a problem, you need to replace the switches. You can do this yourself. However, if the replacement did not help much, the best solution would be to turn to a professional.
Important! The list of tasks of the steering column switch includes not only controlling the headlights, but also the washers, wipers, turn signals and the on-board computer as a whole.
Lada Kalina Hatchback 2010, 80 l. With. — tuning
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Comments 54
Hello, can you tell me if the front fog lights are on, what needs to be switched off so as not to burn anything? There is no MUS, I need to check!
I actually threw out this block, installed 2 4-pin relays and a switch for the turn signal from a foreign car and everything worked. and thank you so much for the pinout diagram)
The dimensions are supplied with a black and white cable (58) from pin #9, which in the MUS is connected from pin #11 - pink cable (30). The low beam goes to a green cable (56) from pin #12, which in the MUS is connected from pin #10 - a blue-black cable (Xz). IMHO: only contacts #10 and #12 can be shorted with jumpers without consequences. Contacts #10 and #9 are never bridged in the ICC, respectively, when they are bridged and the knob is turned to the “dimensions” or “low beam” position, contacts #10 and #11 (pink and blue-black cables) are bridged. Hence your phenomenon of the engine running without a key.
