Pinout of the power window control unit for Priora Luxury

Pinout for connecting power window buttons. 1 to the motor wire in the driver's door 2 to the motor wire in the driver's door 3 ground (you can connect only one of them, they are combined with 5 pins inside) 4 to (+) for the driver's window (I combined it with 6 pins) 5 ground (if 3 pin is connected to ground, then this one does not have to be connected) 6 to (+) for the passenger window 7 missing 8 to the dimensions 9 to the 3rd leg of the button in the passenger door 10 to the 6th leg of the button in the passenger door

Pinout for central locking connection. 1 closing 2 ground 3 missing 4 dimensions 5 backlight ground 6 missing 7 opening

for installation you needed: - wire lugs, I don’t know how many - heat-shrink tube, bought 3 meters (a little left) - wire, bought 30 meters (about a meter and a half left)))

Window closer on Priora and operation of power windows without turning on the ignition

Have you ever been annoyed by the moment when you are late, turn off the ignition and when you are ready to run, you notice or remember about the open windows... You have to put the key back into the ignition and press the power window buttons. This is not so bad, but sometimes in your haste you simply forget about the open windows and leave the car to plow open. This happened to me a couple of times.

Remembering how convenient it was with power window closers on my previous car, I immediately included the installation of power window closers on the Priora in my plans.

The most interesting thing is that the Priors themselves have closers, especially on the luxury ones, where electric windows of the front and rear doors are installed, but the functionality of the closers is terrible. You can raise or lower the windows when arming or disarming by holding the buttons. The same functionality is available on foreign cars. On my car, you can only control the front windows this way; the rear windows are silent (the passport says that this is optional). But it’s still long and inconvenient, and besides, it works as desired. I wanted all the windows to lift on their own when arming, and also for the power windows to work without the ignition. The solution was found on the website www.masterpriora.ru

Closer MASTER v1.20

The MASTER window closer is designed for automatic closing of windows when arming vehicles of the LADA PRIORA family. The closer is a device consisting of a board with electronic components connected by wires with connectors for connection to the standard electrical wiring of the car. To protect against damage, the board is enclosed in a heat-shrinkable shell. This device is not included in the List of goods subject to mandatory certification; it is regulated by the Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation “On approval of the list of goods subject to mandatory certification and the list of works and services subject to mandatory certification” dated August 13, 1997 N 1013 (as amended from April 29, 2002, dated February 10, 2004 N 72).

Functions: Adjustment of glass when arming with standard alarm system. When you press the lock button on the radio remote control, the normal mode of raising the windows is activated; you do not need to hold the button. Adjusting the windows when arming with an additional alarm.* When arming with an additional alarm, the windows are raised.** Control of the windows from the driver's door module within 30 minutes after turning off the ignition.* If the security mode is not turned on, then it remains possible to control the electric windows within 30 minutes from the moment the ignition is turned off using the keys of the driver's door module. Control of the front windows from the driver's door module "with one touch". If you briefly press the up/down button, the glass will automatically go up/down all the way. You can stop the glass at any time by pressing the up or down key again. If you hold the key longer, the glass will move while the key is held. Additional output for the “armed/disarmed” status of the standard alarm. Used to turn off/sleep devices when armed with a standard alarm system, such as a car radio. When using an additional alarm, after disarming, 12 V will appear at the output after opening the driver's door. Additional output for sound signal. When arming with the lights on, the output short-circuits to ground twice (a beep will sound twice). The output is connected to the gray-blue wire of relay K9 (standard alarm horn relay) in the relay and fuse block. Input for disabling glass finishing. Used to disable glass finishing when arming, for example in winter. Does not affect other functions."Turn signal extension." Short-term (not fixed) activation of the direction indicators turns on the corresponding indicator 3 times.

The pleasure costs only 700 rubles, and its installation does not require removing the door trim, and if you use only the first function, the entire installation will take no more than 5 minutes and you will not need to cut the standard wiring.

1. Unscrew the two screws on the driver’s door sill trim.

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Call us: 8-909-360-09-33 Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00 (Moscow time)

So my torment with mirrors began)))) so we have: mirrors from Priora with heating and electrical adjustment, a VAZ 2110 mirror control unit (standard) and wires 10 meters of triple and 10 meters of double wire, 20 pieces of female (small). There aren’t that many connection diagrams on the Internet, but I’ll try to break this whole topic down to its atoms! We take the mirrors and screw them into a standard place, while taking the wires out.

Next, we remove the door trim and start running and jumping around them, trying to pull the wires through the small and thin corrugation connecting the door and the car interior;)

All methods are good here)))) I would prefer to first insert a wire or a thin but strong wire, tie it with the bundle of wires that need to be pulled through and with a slight movement of the hand (you may need the help of a second hand) pull it all out from the other end)))) ) So, the most difficult part of the work is done, and all that remains is to stretch the wires to the mirror control unit. For this we need a Phillips screwdriver 1 pc. We turn this crap away near the feet of the driver and passenger

VAZ 2170 | Power windows

Power windows

The operating mode of the power windows is determined not only by the switches, but also by the power window control unit on the support with additional relays on the left under the dashboard.

Operation: When the ignition is on, the window in the driver's or passenger's door next to the driver slides up or down until it stops by briefly pressing or releasing the switch. In this case, the movement of the glass stops if you briefly press the key in the opposite direction.

For safety reasons, this convenient method of activation in the rear doors only exists for lowering the windows.

When the ignition is turned off, when you press the button, all windows move all the way down only. The glass only moves up when the power window button is pressed.

Child protection: The electric windows in the rear doors are locked by a central switch in the driver's door armrest.

Anti-theft device: If the driver's door is opened and closed again while the engine is off, all power windows are disabled.

Convenient closing: In all vehicles with power windows, they can be closed simultaneously when the driver's door and the passenger door next to the driver are closed. To do this, you need to hold the key in the “closed” position a little longer. If there is an electric sliding roof, it also closes at the same time.

Protection against jamming: If the glass encounters an obstacle when lifting upward, it immediately begins to move in the opposite direction and drops a few centimeters.

Table of measuring values ​​for window regulators

The table shows the nominal values ​​using the driver's door window regulator as an example (vehicles with four power windows).

On rear windows and in cars with two power windows, wires of different colors are partially laid (see footnotes).

VAZ-2114 is a car in which a window regulator malfunction is a common occurrence. This is one of those troubles that does not interfere with driving, but pretty much spoils the nervous system of a car enthusiast. The inability to ventilate the air in the cabin or reduce the temperature in the summer often reduces the composure that is so necessary for a person behind the wheel.

Instead of introducing

Window lifters (or, to use a more familiar word, “window lifters”), as the name suggests, are designed to raise/lower windows.

The option under consideration refers to the electric window lifter

(although in a number of models only mechanical ones are provided for rear windows), i.e. manipulations with the side windows are carried out using electrical energy.

It is convenient and practical, creating additional comfort for the driver and passengers. It is pleasant to note that domestic manufacturers have paid due attention to this indicator.

Manual window lifters

The glass lifting devices on the front and rear doors are similar. The difference is only in the sizes and proportions of the parts, while the operating principle is the same.

The main part is the guide in which the bracket that fixes the glass moves. The guide has fastening bolts at the top and bottom. With their help, it is installed in its position on the door. On the upper and lower edges of the guide there are rollers rigidly fixed along which the cables run that drive the glass mounting bracket.

Another part of the window regulator is the mechanism that operates the cable. It consists of a roller and a gearbox, which is rotated either by a handle or by an electric motor (if the VAZ-2114 window regulator has an electrical circuit).

To ensure that the cables are constantly lubricated and not subject to contamination, they are placed in rigid steel jackets that connect a system of three rollers together.

There are two threaded holes on the top of the glass bracket. The bolts that secure the glass holder are screwed into them.

Lever window lift

One type of window lifting mechanism for the VAZ-2114, which, unfortunately, does not come from the factory, is a lever window lifter. These products are manufactured by Ningbo Stone.

These devices have proven themselves to be reliable and unpretentious mechanisms. Unlike cable window lifts, they have a greater lifting force. Glass frozen in winter is not a problem for them. They can handle them easily, while cable lifts experience significant stress on both the mechanism and the electrics.

One small disadvantage of the lever mechanism is that the speed of raising the glass is not the same. The higher the glass, the smaller it is. This is due to the geometry of the lifting mechanism. A good example would be scissors. If you take them by the rings and move the ends apart as much as possible, and then bring the rings closer to each other, it becomes clear that the height of the cutting ends changes faster when the rings are moved apart as much as possible. Conversely, the rate of ascent decreases as the rings move closer together.

It is this circumstance that allows this mechanism to create significant force. As we know from physics lessons, when you lose in distance traveled, you gain in strength. The same thing happens here: at the top of the range of motion, the distance traveled decreases and the lifting force increases.

The mechanism is driven by an electric motor and is connected as standard to the VAZ-2114 window lift circuit.

Master class on installing door closers

1. First, remove 2 nuts on the door trim near the driver.
2. Then we lift the plastic clips and free the car threshold from the lining.
3. Carefully remove the noise and temperature insulating materials and get to the power window connector shown in the figure. Be sure to ensure that all openings in the car, on the side of the body, are closed.
4. Next, you need to disconnect the existing connector and install the connector of our new device.

This is all that needs to be done to install the power window closer on the Lada Priora. Now you don’t have to worry that when you turn off the ignition in your car, the window glass will remain down. The closer will do his job.

And that is not all! If you want to leave the car ventilated while closing it, the power window closer function can be disabled.

Rack and pinion window lift

Another good option for replacing standard mechanisms is rack and pinion windows. They are produced and have proven themselves well. These devices are characterized by high lifting and lowering speeds. Just as in the case of lever mechanisms, they have more force than standard ones. Despite the more modest dimensions of the electric motor, which is connected by standard connectors of the VAZ-2114 power window connection diagram.

The secret to the reliability of the device is the simple kinematic diagram of the transformation of the rotation of the electric motor shaft into the translational movement of the glass mounting bracket. There is a gear on the motor shaft that meshes with the teeth of the rack. This allowed additional parts to be kept to a minimum and simplified the design. And in combination with high-quality manufacturing materials, it ensured reliable operation.

Power window

The vehicle configuration with electric windows contains additional bundles of wires that make up the VAZ-2114 window lift circuit. In addition, there is a control button on the front passenger door trim. On the driver's door there is a block of buttons that control all windows that have an electrical connection for the VAZ-2114 power windows.

The scheme has the following elements:

1. Mounting block.
2. Front passenger door ESP button.
3. Front passenger door lift motor.
4. Driver's door ESP electric motor.
5. Driver's door switch button.
6. Egnition lock.

The letter “A” in the diagram indicates the wires going to the power supply of the circuit, and the letter “B” indicates the wires going to the side lights.

How to connect a button?

The driver and passenger door buttons are connected to each other, as well as to the ESP motor and power cable. Correct pinout of the power window button:

1. Pin 1 on the driver's door is connected to pin 6 on the passenger side. Contact 1 on the passenger door is connected to the negative terminal of the ESP motor.
2. Pin 2 on both buttons is connected to power.
3. Pin 3 is the ground on the driver's side and the positive wire on the passenger's side.
4. Contact 4 in both cases goes to the headlight switch.
5. Contact 5 is ground in all cases.
6. The positive wire of the ESP motor corresponds to pin 7 of the passenger door button.

Scheme of ESP VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

• 1 – mounting block
• 2 – ignition switch
• 3 – right front door power window switch
• 4 – right rear door power window switch
• 5 – electric window motor reducer of the right front door
• 6 – electric window motor reducer of the right rear door
• 7 – electric window motor reducer of the left rear door
• 8 – electric window motor reducer of the left front door
• 9 – left rear door power window switch
• 10 – left front door power window switch
• 11 – relay for turning on electric windows
• A – to power supplies
• B – to the instrument lighting switch
• C – conventional numbering of plugs in power window blocks

The power window relay for this car is located in the mounting block. On the left under the panel in the fuse box on the additional connector.

How to disassemble the door of a VAZ-2114?

To get to the window lifting mechanism, you need to remove the door trim. In addition, if you plan to replace it with an electric lift, then you need to dismantle the opening limiter, since a bundle of wires will need to be inserted into the door. To remove the casing:

1. Unscrew the three screws from below that hold the plastic pocket of the trim.
2. Remove the two bolts holding the inner handle. To gain access to the bolts, you need to remove the round plugs using a thin flat-head screwdriver.
3. Remove the plastic trim from the door lock handle. To do this, you need to pry it up with a screwdriver and, moving it a little to the side, pull it out of its recess.
4. Unscrew the lock button.
5. Remove the trim. This is done as follows. A flat pry bar or a powerful screwdriver is inserted into the gap between the trim and the door frame. It should fit between the door clip and the door frame. Then you need to squeeze out the clip, not the casing. Otherwise, the clip fastening can be broken, and during subsequent installation the casing will not sit tightly in place. There are 8 clips installed around the entire perimeter of the door. They need to be pulled out one by one.

After releasing the door trim, there is no need to rush to remove it. If it is a door with an electric drive, then it is connected by a bundle of wires going to the window lift button, the pinout of which consists of seven contacts covered by a plastic connector. To disconnect it, you need to press the latch with a small screwdriver and pull out the part into which the wires go.

In a Priora car, the relays in this block have the following tasks:

K1 – turning on the electric radiator fan of the engine cooling system K2 – turning on the heated rear window K3 – starting the starter

K4 – additional relay K5 – reserve K6 – activation of the windshield washer and wiper;

K7 – turning on the high beam headlights; K8 – turn on the sound signal; K9 – alarm signal activation; K10-12 – reserve;

In the question of how to remove the fuse box, Priora does not require contacting service. The process of replacing it is not difficult. To begin with, remove the terminal and de-energize the unit. Otherwise, a short circuit may occur during dismantling.

This rule also applies to other blocks. Next, unscrew the bolt holding the block in place. Then you need to release the block from holding the latches. Next we remove the fuses and relays. Then comes the turn of the wire terminals included in the block.

For convenience, it is better to mark all the wires and their locations. Any mistake and sad consequences cannot be avoided. Using these simple tips, questions related to how to remove the fuse box on a Priora will not cause you any difficulties.

A variety of seemingly complex breakdowns in the electrical equipment of your car can be hidden simply under the cover of the fuse box. These include stuck or non-operating relays, blown fuses or tracks. We recommend starting any work to eliminate breakdowns in the Priora’s electrical system from here.

The Priora mounting block is located in the instrument panel on the left driver's side at the bottom and is closed with a lid - in the photo its location is highlighted with a blue frame:

To gain access directly to the fuses and relays themselves, you need to unscrew the three latches that hold the cover, highlighted in red in the photo:

Removing the cover, we see the block itself:

Before replacing a blown fuse, find out the cause of its blown and eliminate it. When troubleshooting, it is recommended to look at the circuits that are protected by this fuse.

What are the fuses responsible for in the mounting block of VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Lada Priora).

Location of relays and fuses in the mounting block:

1, 2 – tweezers; K1 – relay for turning on the electric radiator fan of the engine cooling system; K2 – relay for turning on the heated rear window; K3 – starter activation relay; K4 – additional relay (ignition relay); K5 – place for backup relay; K6 – relay for turning on the windshield washer and wiper; K7 – headlight high beam relay; K8 – horn activation relay; K9 – alarm signal activation relay; K10, K11, K12 – places for backup relay; F1–F32 – fuses (circuits protected by pin-type fuses are listed in Table 10.

Electrical equipment that consumes a large current during operation is connected through relays that protect the switch contacts from burning.

To replace relays and pin fuses, special plastic tweezers are provided in the mounting block

Replacing the window regulator

If the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work, it can be replaced with a new one. To do this you need to do the following:

1. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three nuts that hold the glass guide.
2. Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the three nuts that secure the electric motor or manual drive gearbox.
3. Disconnect the glass mounting bracket from the glass holder. To do this, you need to unscrew the two 8mm bolts on the bracket.

After this, you can pull the window regulator out of the door. The glass must remain raised. Otherwise it will be impossible to remove the mechanism.

The new lift is installed in the reverse order. However, there is no need to rush to tighten the glass mounting bracket. First you need to make sure that the glass is in the correct position in the guides and moves clearly in them.

Lada Priora Sedan › Logbook › Rear esp

I’ve been wanting rear ESPs for a long time, but now I have the opportunity to order new ones for only 1400, I decided to take it, I’ll finally get rid of the spontaneous lowering. We will need: — 2 assembled lifts; — driver’s door block; — 2 buttons for passengers; — wires; 1. I got the driver's door block for free, I exchanged it with a friend, he doesn't need it anyway) we remove the old block and install a new one, if necessary we overexpose it, there is no need to pull any wires to it! 2. Replacing the mechanism.

unscrew the 5 nuts, then unscrew the glass from the trapezoid, ask someone to hold it, or fix it.

Next, take a new lift and perform the installation in reverse order

we screw everything into place, the only thing is that the old nuts for screwing the motor will not fit, they were turnkey for 8 and now they are 10, you will have to add 6 new nuts.3. Wiring: Right door we will have 5 wires in total

3 from the button: we hook the central wire of the button to ground, I hooked it right next to it, because it doesn’t carry a load, it just controls the relay, here it has enough ground. We pull 2 ​​wires of the button to the electrical package unit in the cabin

2 from the motor: we attach one wire right there to the central locking wire, red with a black stripe (it is common throughout the entire board, so you connect to it near the passenger door in the feet, there is no difference, and there is no need to pull the extra wire. If after connecting the motor goes in the opposite direction, swap the wires in the motor chip and that’s it.

on the left side the situation is slightly different, there you will need to pull 2 ​​wires from the motor, one to the driver’s feet, there in the driver’s door bundle connect to the red-blue wire, and the second also to the electrical package unit.

Next, we connect to the blockout, we will need 2 terminals from the car radio connector, 2 terminals from the same connector of the floppy drive, we will keep them. Don’t forget to remove the connection lock before installing the terminals in the connector:

We connect one wire from the buttons to the pink wire, it is common for them

To be honest, I don’t remember exactly which is which, well, if you confuse left with right, it’s not difficult to change. Well, lastly, we put plugs in the doors

I hope I made it clear, if you have any questions please ask.

Reasons for poor performance

There are not so many reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work well. Conventionally, they can be divided into mechanical and electrical. Let's consider the main ones:

1. Glass distortion. Often the reason for poor performance is not the window lifting mechanism itself, but a violation of the position of the glass relative to its guides. This can happen either due to the bracket fastening being unscrewed, or the damp rubber fixing the glass in the holder has ceased to perform its functions. This option occurs much less frequently.
2. Contamination of the guide rubbers. The glass moves inside the grooves formed by the rubber bands. These grooves tend to become clogged with dirt. It, like an abrasive, increases the friction force, which creates resistance to glass movement.
3. The window lift mechanism is dirty. During operation, drivers do not realize that maintenance is also necessary inside the doors. This is especially true for the cable mechanism. Over the years, not only does contamination occur, but also the lubricant of the mechanism and cables dry out, which increases the friction force. The front left window regulator fails faster due to more frequent use.
4. The next reason is wear of the plastic teeth of the mechanism drive. In this case, when you press the control button, you can hear the electric motor running, but the glass does not move.
5. Broken cables. This occurs due to attempts to open frozen windows. With repeated loads exceeding the rated ones, the cables begin to delaminate and gradually fail.

Electrical reasons can be reduced to either a short circuit or loss of contact in the VAZ-2114 power window circuit.

Troubleshooting

Minor breakdowns include glass rattling, noise in the window lifter, free movement of glass under mechanical influence (for example, the glass does not rise or fall with the lifter, but the same can be done by hand). Their cause is skewed glass, failure of rollers or cables. If the glass is skewed, it must be adjusted. If the cable is broken, it must be replaced. If the cable comes off the rollers, you need to pull it back and adjust the car window regulator. The occurrence of noise is a sign that the mechanism is poorly lubricated. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to thoroughly lubricate all the power window mechanisms, as well as the glass guides. If the mechanism operates slowly, it should also be lubricated or replaced with a new one. Over time, the speed of lowering and raising the windows decreases due to wear and tear on the window lift motor.

Replacement cost

Replacing VAZ-2114 window regulators is cheaper than installing electric mechanisms to replace manual ones. If, in order to simply change the window regulator, you need to disassemble the door trim, dismantle the old mechanism and install a new one, then to install an electric version instead of a manual one, you need to partially disassemble the instrument panel, select a power source and run the wiring from it inside the door. This work requires the intervention of an electrician. Because power cannot be taken from anywhere: the source must match the power of the electric drive, and in the event of a short circuit, the fuses must protect the main wiring of the car. In addition, the power windows must operate when the ignition switch is on.

To summarize, we can say that in the first case, the qualifications of the work are minimal, and it can be done by yourself, without having specific knowledge, while working with an electrician requires a specialist who needs to be paid.

The price of a VAZ-2114 window lifter ranges from 2.5 thousand to 3.5 thousand rubles, depending on the design and manufacturer. But as was said earlier: the lever and rack and pinion options are preferable. If you buy a device for only one side, then the left front window regulator will be more expensive, since it is more in demand.

Flashing the immobilizer

As a rule, Priora is equipped with a standard APS-6 immobilizer. This, as already said, is an optional procedure, but if the budget does not allow you to invest in a security system, you will inevitably have to deal with all this electronic “stuffing”. In addition to the power windows, the immobilizer controls several other systems of the car, even the rear lights. But the main problem is precisely that in the Priora car the immobilizer is structurally combined with the glass unit controller.

Priora lends itself well to tuning. A solution was also found for the immobilizer. During learning, the immobilizer writes its code to a non-volatile area of ​​the ECU memory, which is stored in a disabled state. To disable the immobilizer, you need to clear this memory cell in the ECU.

To do this, you need to disconnect the original wiring connector from the immobilizer. Next, you need to determine the type of ECU. The flashing method will depend on this. If it is a Bosch M1.5.4, you need to open it and install a specially prepared chip with a program for cleaning the ECU EEPROM in place of the standard one and turn on the ignition for a few seconds. For some ECUs, you need to download special programmers from the Internet.

You can order flashing from specialists at reasonable prices

By the way, the Priora immobilizer itself is often prone to malfunctions, and therefore you need to interfere with its operation with extreme caution. On some types of ECUs, you cannot do without desoldering the chip and you cannot completely erase the EEPROM

We end here. Good luck!