The procedure for replacing a chain drive on a VAZ 2106 car is not easy. Not every car enthusiast can cope with the task.
You will need basic car maintenance skills, special tools, and other auxiliary equipment.
Before starting work, carefully study the material base, get advice from specialists from service stations and workshops.
Replacing the timing chain on a VAZ 2106
Replacing a timing chain, as well as replacing a timing belt, is not a very simple job, and is very responsible.
For novice car enthusiasts, it is better to carry out this operation under the supervision of mechanics or simply people experienced in this matter. It is better not to carry out this procedure without minimal knowledge and experience. Moreover, when replacing the timing chain, it may be necessary to replace other elements, in particular, the alternator belt, tensioner shoe, sprockets and damper. Tools required for work:
Removing the air filter housing from the carburetor.
You will need 8 and 10 wrenches to unscrew the nuts. When working, you should be careful not to drop anything, because in this case it will have to be removed, including dismantling the intake manifold.
Disconnecting cables, pipelines, covers, etc.
First of all, the distributor cover and the fuel supply pipe are removed. To do this, you will have to unscrew the valve cover fastenings (eight nuts in total, plus washers with plates), after which the fuel supply pipe, choke cable, and throttle valve drive are disconnected.
After removing the valve cover and gasket, carefully inspect the latter: it may well be that it will also have to be replaced.
Removing protection and draining antifreeze.
Remove the protection from below and pour the antifreeze into a previously prepared container.
The next step is to loosen the generator (for this you will need a 19 mm wrench), as well as remove the clamps on the pipes and the clamp of the lower pipe of the water pump. All clamps are first loosened and then removed. We turn off the power to the temperature sensor on the radiator and the fan, then remove the radiator, including the thermostat and pipes.
Removing the generator belt.
The generator tensioner nut must be loosened and then moved forward using a pry bar. At this stage you can already remove the alternator belt.
Removing the crankshaft pulley.
Turning the crankshaft by the pulley, using a 36mm wrench, align the marks on the pulley and cover, on the bed casting and the camshaft sprocket. We unscrew the nut holding the crankshaft pulley to 36, lock the pulley (for this you need a special key or a complex combination of engaging fifth gear, pressing the brake pedal and unscrewing the nut). Once this nut is removed, the pulley can be removed and the camshaft cover can be removed. For the last operation you will need a 10mm wrench and a little patience (you need to unscrew three nuts and six bolts, plus three bolts at the bottom of the cover.
Removing the chain tensioner.
The chain tensioner is held in place by two fastening nuts. By unscrewing them, you can easily remove the tensioner.
Removing the camshaft sprocket mounting.
At this stage it is important to mark the position of the sprocket for alignment. Removing the sprocket is quite simple - just unscrew the fastening bolt
Removing the timing chain.
The fuse, the bolt on which the auxiliary drive sprocket is attached, as well as the tensioner fastenings are unscrewed with a 10mm wrench. Before removing the sprockets and timing chain, leave marks corresponding to their position (the reverse steps will be much easier).
Installation of new sprockets, crankshaft and auxiliary units.
Before installing a new chain, it must be thoroughly lubricated - this way it will last longer. After installation, it is advisable to temporarily hold it with some tool so that it does not fall.
Installation of new sprockets, crankshaft and auxiliary units is carried out in the reverse order. The camshaft sprocket is installed in such a way that all marks match and the descending branch of the chain is tensioned. The camshaft must be turned counterclockwise. Now we go back behind the crankshaft and tighten the chain. At this stage, you should check that the labels are correct and match. If they do not match, the chain can be thrown over the tooth and the installation process repeated.
Installing the chain tensioner.
Returning the chain tensioner to its rightful place is only half the battle. It is also necessary to tighten the mounting bolts and lock them. To check for correct installation, turn the crankshaft two turns. If the valves do not rest against the pistons and the marks match, then everything is done correctly.
At this stage, you need to return the crankshaft cover to its place (after having lubricated it with sealant).
We return the pulley to its place. We check again that the marks match and only after that tighten it.
Distributor installation.
We unscrew the nut to 13, take it out, turn the slider towards the contact of the 4th cylinder and install the distributor in place. We turn on the ignition.
The remaining operations are performed similarly to disassembly, in reverse order.
Design and purpose of the camshaft
With all the variety of elements and associated systems of a car engine, the power plant is a rationally coordinated single mechanism. The engine of the “six” is represented by a four-stroke type “engine”, and the alternation of strokes is strictly regulated. This determines the purpose of the VAZ 2106 camshaft, the price of which is relatively high and amounts to 1000-1200 rubles, depending on the manufacturer.
The classic camshaft of the VAZ 2106 is responsible for the sequence (established order) of the operation of the valve elements to open and close the product for the removal of gas products of combustion of the air-gasoline mixture and the operation of the intake fuel line.
The main working body of the camshaft is the cams, which, through the influence of other elements of the product, including the camshaft chain, “open” the valves at a given frequency. The camshaft chain itself interacts between the gear and the camshaft sprocket of the “six” by means of a chain transmission.
Each valve corresponds to a separate cam, which, when operated by the action of a pusher on the protruding segment, presses on the valve element, which causes it to rise, which is why, depending on the position of the element, either a fuel-air mixture enters the cylinder or exhaust gases are discharged. When the pusher is released from contact with the protruding element, the spring “slams” the valve element with its tensile force.
The VAZ 2106 camshaft support neck is used for mounting the product in a retracted position. The mating parts are hardened using high-frequency current and are lubricated during operation.
Instructions for disassembling the mechanism
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The first thing to do is remove the engine valve cover. Here you can see some signs of wear, for example, a chain dangling on the camshaft gear or a torn damper (or rather, its absence). It even happens that in the place where it stood, the chain selected a groove in the material of the head itself. For convenience, it is better to immediately align the round mark on the camshaft drive gear with the protrusion on its bed.
This is done by rotating the crankshaft with a 38mm wrench. For further disassembly, it is better to remove the radiator, first draining the antifreeze from it. There are craftsmen who replace the VAZ 2106 chain without removing the radiator, but this makes access to the timing mechanism very difficult, which will take up extra time. It is better to spend it on dismantling and installing the radiator, creating conditions for normal operation.
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Once access to the front of the engine is open, you need to loosen and remove the generator drive belt. Then, using a 38mm wrench, loosen the pulley nut in this way: engage 4th gear, and ask an assistant to press the brake, and then unscrew the ratchet. This method will save you from the need to insert various pieces of hardware into the engine to stop the rotation of the crankshaft. Further disassembly is carried out according to this scheme.
Installing the VAZ 2106 timing chain according to the marks.
- Remove the pulley from the crankshaft, clean the turnkey bolts on the 10th front cover of the cylinder block from dirt, and unscrew them. Three of them are located at the bottom and connect the cover to the oil pan. Remove it, clean off any remaining gasket, as well as the mating flange on the cylinder block.
Replacement
Timing chains VAZ 2106
- Unlock the bolts of the two gears, loosen them and unscrew them. Remove these gears, then use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the travel stop (located to the left of the crankshaft axis), and then remove the old chain. The crankshaft gear is removed last; be careful not to lose the key.
- Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the chain tensioner nut, use a pry bar to gently press the chain tensioner shoe so that the plunger goes in, and then tighten the nut again. This is done because previously the chain tension was greater; the tensioner will not allow you to install a new one.
- Replacing
the chain tensioner consists of unscrewing its working part (shoe) and replacing it with a new one, which is done in the next step. - chain
damper is replaced in the same way . You need to unscrew 2 bolts with a 10mm wrench, remove the old element, and install a new one in its place and screw it on.
Signs of critical wear of a part
As the vehicle is used, the chain drive slowly stretches. Deformation of the metal joints does not occur - the reason for the phenomenon lies in the abrasion of the hinges of each link, the formation of gaps and backlash. Within 1-2 bushings, the wear is small, but multiply the gap by 116 and you will get a noticeable elongation of the element as a whole.
How to determine the malfunction and degree of wear of the chain:
Once, during the process of diagnosing the “six” engine, I had to observe the following picture: the elongated chain not only broke the damper, but also made a deep groove in the cylinder head housing. The defect partially affected the valve cover contact plane, but no cracks or engine oil leaks occurred.
A chain stretched by 1 cm or more can jump 1-4 links along the gears. If the element “jumped” one section, the valve timing is disrupted - the engine vibrates strongly in all operating modes, significantly loses power and often stalls. A clear symptom is shots in the carburetor or exhaust pipe. Attempts to adjust the ignition and adjust the fuel supply are useless - the engine “shaking” does not stop.
Assembly Features
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Assembling the mechanism and replacing the timing chain is performed in the reverse order. It is necessary to put in place the new crankshaft gear with the key, while checking the alignment of the marks on the cylinder block body and on the gear itself. Then install the remaining gears, putting a new chain on them, screw on the travel stop and tighten it. Considering that at the very beginning of disassembly, the mark on the camshaft gear coincided with the protrusion on its body, everything should remain that way.
Replacing the upper silent blocks of a VAZ 2106 without a puller.
The marks at the top and bottom must match. If this does not happen, you need to rearrange the chain along the gears by one or two links. The next operation is to tension the VAZ 2106 chain. Loosen the tensioner nut again with a 13mm wrench and rotate until you hear a characteristic click - the plunger will pop out and press on the shoe, which will tension the chain. After this, tighten the nut. Now you can replace the front cover of the cylinder block by replacing the oil seal located in it.
The procedure is simple: the old oil seal is carefully knocked out, and the new one is pressed in using a round adapter. Place the cover with the gasket on the bolts, and start tightening from the bottom three, having previously lubricated the oil pan gasket with sealant. Replacing the timing chain is completed by reassembling it, which will result in smooth and quiet engine operation.
Briefly about the drive design
To change the chain and related elements yourself, you need to know the structure of this part of the power unit. The mechanism that drives the camshaft of the VAZ 2106 engine includes the following parts:
In older versions of the “six”, a mechanical tensioner plunger was installed, where the rod extends under the influence of a spring. The updated modification of the car is equipped with a hydraulic plunger device.
While the engine is running, the timing chain must be kept in tension, otherwise there will be beating, accelerated wear and the links jumping over the gear teeth. A semicircular shoe supporting the part on the left side is responsible for the tension.
After the camshaft sprocket (in the direction of rotation), a damper plate is installed, pressed against the chain drive. To prevent the element from jumping off the lower gear as a result of strong stretching, a limiter is installed nearby - a metal rod screwed into the cylinder block.
The drive mechanism is located at the front end of the engine and is covered by an aluminum cover in which the front crankshaft oil seal is installed. The lower plane of the cover is adjacent to the oil pan - this feature must be taken into account when disassembling the unit.
We set the ignition by ear
As mentioned above, the best way to set the ignition is only with the help of a strobe light. But you still need to somehow get to the service station.
For such cases, a quick method of setting the ignition “by ear” is perfect:
- First, loosen the ignition distributor mounting nut.
- After warming up the internal combustion engine and without turning it off, rotate the distributor housing alternately in both directions.
- The speed should be approximately 2000 rpm.
- Listen to the engine. The best position is when the maximum possible number of revolutions is produced with smooth operation of the power unit without failures.
- Once this position is found, you can tighten the fastener.
Performing powertrain maintenance
A number of operations and repairs are carried out on a vehicle prepared in this way, including the following:
- Tensioning the timing chain, as well as replacing its components and parts, both on power units with a carburetor-type and injector-type power supply system.
- Adjustment of the valve, or rather, the thermal gap between the camshaft cams and the rocker arm. In this case, marks on the timing parts are placed at the beginning of the procedure and at the end of it.
- When setting up the ignition system of the power unit, in this case, to achieve the best result, it is recommended to use a special device - a tester.
VAZ 2107 cars with injection engines are still produced at enterprises in our country. They are highly reliable and economical at an affordable price, which is what determines their high popularity among consumers.
Let's sum it up
Taking into account the above, we can conclude that replacing the timing chain is a responsible procedure. At the same time, the answer to the question of where to change the timing chain can be either a trip to a specialized car service center or performing all the actions in your garage.
It should also be taken into account that during reassembly it is extremely important to ensure that the factory marks match. Ignoring this rule often leads to the fact that a fairly common situation is when, after the owner has changed the timing chain, the car does not start or the engine runs with obvious interruptions
In this case, re-disassembly is usually necessary, followed by correct marking.
Finally, we note that the price of replacing a timing belt compared to replacing a timing chain is slightly different. Replacing a timing chain at a service center is 40-60% or more more expensive compared to a similar replacement of a belt drive on various models. If you make the replacement yourself, then you need to be prepared for the fact that you may need to install a new chain, sprockets, tensioner and damper.
Adjustment
According to the maintenance regulations for the VAZ-2016, the timing chain tension is checked and adjusted every 10,000 kilometers. Often, you have to tighten the tension more often, especially on older engines. If you notice that it is time to tighten the chain, you should do it immediately. Tightening may cause links to slip. As a result, you will get bent valves and damaged pistons, which means the need for a complete overhaul.
You will need to remove the valve cover to tighten the chain. Loosen the nut securing the tensioner. Then, using a spanner, turn the tensioner bolt half a turn. In this case, you can observe a visual displacement of the tensioner shoe. If it does not move, you will have to give the bolt several gentle blows with a hammer. This will free the stuck plunger. Afterwards, the engine is turned until the moment of greatest resistance. Tighten the tensioner nut. They start the engine and determine the quality of work by ear. If the chain is too elongated, it will not be possible to tighten it; in this case, you will have to install a new one.
What happens if the chain length increases?
It will not be possible to adjust the idle speed of the VAZ 2106 engine; its operation will be uneven and unstable. You can double-check all components, including power and ignition systems, a hundred times, set valve clearances, measure compression, but problems cannot be eliminated.
Please note that all links in the timing chain have different wear, therefore, the valve timing is constantly changing
There is also noise from the chain, as its links fall into the sprocket. It is also possible that the damper, limiting pin or corner of the shoe may break. But the worst thing is the timing chain jumping several teeth. Typically from 1 to 5.
Even if it slips a couple of teeth, the most favorable outcome is to stop the engine. And the saddest thing is the bending of the valves. For this reason, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the VAZ 2106 timing chain and promptly replace and tension it.
Useful notes
If you have a “seven” with a carburetor, then after replacing the timing chain you need to adjust the ignition, because the drive sprocket of the ignition distributor-distributor (in common parlance, distributor) was also removed from its seat. Injection models do not require such adjustment.
Soviet and early Russian cars of the classic family were traditionally equipped with double-row timing chains. This provided increased reliability due to the fact that the break of one link did not provoke an instant collision of the piston with the valve in the open position. The disadvantage was the increased weight. In order to save money and simplify the design, the chain began to be made single-row. The resource of a double chain reaches 100 - 120 thousand kilometers, while a single chain is half as much. Some car owners are returning a double-row chain to their power units. True, for this you will also have to replace all the gears that mesh with the chain. Today, a set of such parts is quite difficult to find, so get ready for search work if you want to increase the reliability of the timing mechanism.
A double-row timing chain has a much longer life, but choosing a set of parts for its installation is much more difficult
The timing chain is a transmission mechanism, the condition of which the car owner must monitor especially carefully. It is not without reason that experienced drivers advise listening to their car. Extraneous noise with jingling notes is a sure sign that it’s time to open at least the cylinder head cover, crank the crankshaft and inspect the chain, at least externally. If there are alarming signs, the chain will need to be removed and replaced. Confidence, accuracy and these instructions will help you save a considerable amount of money, because replacing a chain or belt on a “classic” costs about 2,000 rubles in the country.
