How to properly connect armor wires to a VAZ 2109

The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor, injector)

The ignition module on injection VAZ 2109 is deservedly considered one of the most complex electrical components. If the injectors have a module, then the carburetors have the simplest coil.

The actual, but incredibly important task of the module is the generation of high voltage current, which can reach 30 thousand watts. The current follows high-voltage wires to the spark plugs, which create a spark to ignite the air-fuel mixture.

The classic ignition coil is one of the components of the module, so the system works on a much more complex principle than on carburetors.

The procedure for connecting high-voltage armored wires to the cover on a VAZ 2108-21099

In the process of repairing a car, sometimes it is necessary to disconnect the armor wires from the distributor (see VAZ 2109 distributor device: the difference between contact and non-contact ignition systems and adjusting the ignition timing), while disconnecting these wires, drivers often do not remember the order in which they were connected, which then causes problems with the ignition system, due to the incorrect order of these same wires. Don't despair, our instructions will remind you:

• We list the conditions for correctly connecting the armored wires to the distributor cap:
• It should be remembered that the distributor cover can be installed on the distributor itself in one fixed position; it is simply impossible to confuse anything here
• There is a special installation mark on the cover that will tell you the socket of the wire going to the first cylinder
• The wires are connected to it in the sequence: first, third, fourth, second (we mean the cylinder) in a counterclockwise direction, as if we are looking at this cap from the side where the expansion tank is located.
• To make it clearer, the photo below shows the correct order for connecting the armor wires from the cylinders to the cover

Correct order of connecting armor wires

Now you can connect the armor wires correctly with your own hands.

How to check the ignition on an injector

First you need

o will conduct a full computer diagnostic of the system. If problems are found, the on-board computer ( ] - “computer”) is a device or system capable of performing a given, clearly defined, changeable sequence of operations

) will indicate them by way (
place, direction or the process of movement (or change); up to the scientific abstractions of this concept: Path - a system of communication along which passage or travel is carried out, along which
) red indication (
methods and techniques of observation, recording, control, characterization and assessment of the state and stages of development of various processes, objects and research systems to establish and control dependencies on
) “Check”.
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) the whole reason for the breakdown (
toponym in Russia
) is not the electronic ignition module, but problems with the damper (
technique - a device for shutting off openings and pipelines: Damper - a valve for closing a chimney or ventilation duct Damper - a cover for closing the inlet of a furnace or
) throttle assembly (
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).

Here you will need a multimeter with which you need to measure voltage ( Electrical voltage between points A and B - the ratio of the work of the electric field when transferring a test charge from point A to B to the value of this test charge

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After ( high-ranking diplomatic representative of his state in a foreign state (in several states concurrently) and in an international organization; official representative
) turning the key in the ignition system, indications (
testimonies are information expressed in oral responses of witnesses about circumstances relevant for consideration and resolution of the court case
) of the device must be the following:

• total voltage of the on-board circuit is 12 V;
• The throttle valve sensor readings are 0.5 V, while the throttle valve is open only 1%.

Lada 2109 › Logbook › Dual-circuit ignition on the VAZ 2109

I suffered several times in the winter with starting the engine. Even when it’s not cold, but at 0 degrees, you come to start it and the car is silent. You unscrew the damp spark plugs and the battery eventually dies! With a good battery, it starts normally. As it turned out in the end, I had a contact ignition coil B- 117 from the classics. I immediately changed it to a coil from BSZ. And the car started to start and drive much better, but I didn’t stop there and decided to make a dual-circuit ignition with 2 hall sensors, 2 switches and 2 coils from the Volga ZMZ- 406

To begin with, I started assembling the distributor because it is the most basic and thinnest part of the system. I took the distributor from OKI as a basis, or an ordinary nine-wheel one. I just had it from the window lying in the garage. I completely disassembled it and started installing the second one. hall sensor directly to the standard platform at an angle of 90 degrees. Marked the approximate position of the 2nd sensor. On the platform there are risks of the approximate position of the middle of the sensor:

Drilled and tapped the threads for the bolts:

Then I carefully cut the hall sensors themselves with a metal cloth so that they do not interfere with each other. It looks something like this:

Then I modified the shaft, replaced the ignition angle advance weights with nine-shaft ones. They are smaller and lighter than those of the Oka, the photo shows Okushinsky weights! And accordingly, I also replaced the springs. The curtain remained the standard Okushinsky one, I didn’t touch it. If you make it from a nine-shaft shaft, then the curtain must also be modified sawing off two opposite ones so that it looks like in the photo:

That's all for the shaft! Next, I cut out a small piece from the distributor body itself to attach the fork of the 2nd hall sensor, drilled a hole and cut a thread for the bolt

Then I put the whole thing together. Here’s what happened:

Note: during assembly it turned out that the platform on which the hall sensors are attached from the Oka is larger than from the 2109 and it turned out to be easier to mount the sensor, so another one +, It is advisable to buy the same sensors themselves in the same store from the same batch as they are slightly different! That's all for now with the distributor!

Then I bought the rest of the necessary parts: 2 coils from the Volga ZMZ-406, a wiring harness for the BSZ 2108, an “Astro” switch, as I already had the same one

I connected the wiring according to the diagram:

Note: when connecting according to scheme 1, the tachometer will show half the revolutions. If you want to make a normal tachometer, then there is also scheme 2, you will need to solder in 2 KD213A diodes. But I did not do this and did it according to scheme 1. And don’t try to connect wires without diodes according to scheme 2; thereby you parallel both coils and it turns out that all 4 spark plugs spark at the same time when both hall sensors are triggered! Tested personally)

I made a metal mount for the coils, but it didn’t turn out very well:

And now about the most important thing: for the system to work well, you need to adjust the synchronization of the hall sensors so that the spark on all cylinders is the same advance. To do this, you need to make the opposite mark on the flywheel, this will be the TDC of the 2nd cylinder. You need to count 64 teeth along the crown from the standard mark. And Using a strobe light, align both marks from the 1st and 2nd cylinders, moving the 2nd hall sensor up and down or both sensors in the direction of the white arrows. To do this, I drilled holes with a thin drill in the sensors to move.

How to check high voltage ignition wires?

Checking high-voltage ignition wires for breakdown is carried out in one of three ways.

Visual inspection is the easiest way to check and detect damage to the insulating layer of high-voltage wiring. During this check, you need to make sure that there are no cracks, cuts or noticeable abrasions on the insulation surface. A breakdown can be visually determined by sparking. To do this, in the dark, just open the hood of the car, start the engine and turn off the lights. An insulation breakdown will be noticeable to the naked eye by sparks running through the wiring.

It is often impossible to visually determine that the high-voltage ignition wire is faulty. In such cases, the old proven method is used, which consists of the following steps. The engine is started and left to idle. Next, the contacts are removed one by one from the spark plugs and then put back on. All operations must be performed with rubber gloves, without touching the car body with your body. The conductor is faulty if, when it is disconnected from the spark plug, engine operation does not change.

The next method is to use a piece of wire stripped at both ends. The check is carried out at night with the engine running. One end of the segment is connected to the car body (“ground”), the other end must be driven along the high-voltage ignition wiring. If a spark appears when carrying out insulation, there is a breakdown in this place. This way, not only the insulation is checked, but also the plastic protective caps.

Checking high-voltage ignition wires with a multimeter

Car owners usually measure voltage with a multimeter, but the same device can also determine resistance, which is very useful when checking. To measure, high-voltage ignition wires are first disconnected or completely removed. The multimeter needs to be switched to resistance measurement mode, then the probes of the device need to touch the two ends of one wire. The device will show the measured value.

If, as a result of the test, one conductor turns out to be faulty, the rest will soon fail. Therefore, replacing the high-voltage ignition wiring is done as a set, rather than as separate wires. These products most likely will not be sold to you separately.

3 Tips for Selecting High Voltage Ignition Wires

Tip #1.

Carefully study the information about the product (manufacturer, terms of use, etc.) - it should be available both on the packaging and on the product itself.

Often, on fakes, the English word “silicone” is misspelled. This phenomenon is so widespread that it was even found in one authoritative print media on automotive topics. The authors mistakenly and without verification used the word “silicon,” which actually translates as “silicon.”

Tip #2.

Evaluate the quality of caps on high-voltage electrics.

The caps are made of silicone rubber; they are necessary to protect the wiring contacts and ensure the tightness of the connections. The minimum wall thickness of the cap is 3 mm. As inspection often shows, the electrical circuit is broken precisely at the junction of the conductor terminal with the contacts of the ignition system elements. This usually happens when the wiring is removed inaccurately or when there is a poor connection with parts of the ignition system due to poor fit, oxidation processes, etc.

Tip #3.

Evaluate the quality of the highest voltage ignition wiring.

Silicone products are of the best quality today. There are several simple ways to check their quality. For example, you can expose the cable to open fire. If the insulation is of high quality, it will not be easy to melt or even ignite it. Another way to check is to twist the wire tightly. If displacement or sliding of the core relative to the cable sheath is felt, and a characteristic crunching sound occurs, it means that the adhesion of the sheath to the insulation is poor. Also try moving the insulation layer along the conductor. There should be no displacements during testing; the cable must be solid. Otherwise, when installing or dismantling the wiring, the protection may be impaired.

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Symptoms indicating a malfunction

Among the main and frequent breakdowns, several can be identified:

• So, the slider may burn out, and this may cause problems with starting the engine. The engine may start, but will immediately stall.
• If the fastening of the distributor is loosened, the OZ could be damaged. This can lead to difficulty starting, loss of power, and unstable engine idling. This is also one of the reasons for increased fuel consumption. To fix it, tighten the fastening with a 10 mm wrench - rotate two nuts, as well as one bolt.

• Another popular cause of malfunction is the distributor wires (VAZ-2109). They may be connected incorrectly or the order may be out of order. The engine may not start at all, or it will start, but at the same time it will “sneeze”.
• Oxidation or destruction of contacts in the cover is a common problem that occurs with ignition distributors for VAZ. If the contacts are oxidized, you can try to restore them with white spirit. This is one of the reasons why the engine troits.
• In addition, the distributor cover may be broken. VAZ-2109 quite often worries its owner about this. You can see the breakdown location very easily. It is clearly visible. A failed cover can cause current leaks, causing various interruptions in the operation of the motor.
• Another problem with the lid is the contact carbon in the lid breaking or wearing off. In this case, the engine will not start. To eliminate the cause, replace the coal separately or the entire lid. If the Hall sensor is malfunctioning, the engine will not be able to start. If the wires from the sensor are broken, the result will be the same.

If the vacuum corrector is faulty, the power unit will not pull up. The power and throttle response of the engine will decrease. The vacuum regulator sets the angle under load a little earlier. One of the possible reasons is a lack of tightness in the regulator body or a leak in the hose from the carburetor. Or the rotary plate of the corrector may be stuck. You can try to fix the leak. But often a complete replacement of the distributor on a VAZ-2109 is required. The asking price is up to five hundred rubles.

It is not difficult to determine that a VAZ-2109 distributor with a carburetor is broken. The car will jerk when driving. However, there are no other reasons for this behavior. If the tank is filled with high-quality gasoline, the fuel pump and carburetor are working properly, then the distributor is to blame for the vibrations. When the car picks up speed, the engine will rev.

Malfunctions can also be judged by an engine that refuses to start. When you press the accelerator pedal and increase speed, detonation occurs. This also indicates a non-working distributor. If the dynamics have deteriorated significantly, then the distributor should be checked. When the fuel rises, the first thing you need to do is find out if the breaker is working, and only then turn the carburetor.

What can multiple misfires lead to?

Single misfires are only a signal to the owner of a VAZ 2114 about problems with the engine.

Numerous incidents entail the following consequences:

1. As a result of misfires, unburnt fuel will enter the catalytic reduction system. Because of this, the converter will overheat and fail.
2. With repeated misfires, some of the gasoline will enter the lubrication system through the walls of the idle cylinder. Oil diluted with gasoline will lose its properties and will not be able to provide high-quality lubrication of loaded engine elements.
3. All these factors can lead to engine failure and the need for expensive repairs.

What are the dangers of ignition malfunctions?

The optimal operation of the entire AP depends on the performance of all its elements, as well as the set torque. In practice, carburetor internal combustion engines require more precise adjustment.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the problems in more detail:

1. The power unit detonates. When the driver presses on the gas, ringing sounds begin to be heard from under the hood. In practice, such problems appear in vehicles due to the timing being set too early. As a result, this causes the internal combustion engine to malfunction, and this can subsequently lead to deformation of the piston rings.
2. When the engine starts, black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe. Such problems usually indicate that the advance angle is set incorrectly, the timing is too late. Of course, correct adjustment will allow you to get rid of this problem.
3. When idling, the power unit oscillates and operates unevenly.
4. The internal combustion engine operates intermittently, when the driver presses the gas, dips appear. That is, the driver presses on the gas, but the car does not accelerate.
5. The power of the power unit has decreased, that is, it takes much more time to gain speed. This problem may be due to the fact that the fuel-air mixture does not completely burn in the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.

When such problems occur, the car owner should start diagnosing the SZ, and if necessary, adjust the torque. In practice, most malfunctions are associated with this. But before you start making adjustments, you need to make sure that all components are working correctly. It is necessary to diagnose the spark plugs, the condition of the high-voltage wires, the coil and the distributor. Only if all these elements are intact, you need to start adjusting.

Signs of malfunction of high-voltage ignition wires

Evidence that the ignition cables have become unusable are the following signs:

• difficulty starting the engine, especially in wet weather;
• At medium and high speeds, unstable engine operation is noted;
• the engine does not develop full power;
• increased fuel consumption is observed.

As a rule, when there is severe wear on the wire insulation, many microcracks appear, due to which current leakage occurs. As a result, the wire is not able to transmit to the spark plug a current that is sufficient in magnitude for its normal operation. This significantly increases the spark generation time and interferes with the correct operation of the engine cylinders.

Quite often there are cases when wires are damaged as a result of contact with any engine elements. Situations of loss of cap tightness are also possible, and as a result - oxidation of contacts and current leakage. Regular cleaning of contacts is a mandatory procedure, especially when operating a vehicle in difficult climatic conditions.

How can a car owner check the wires for leaks? In fact, everything is very simple: in a dark garage, open the hood and start the engine. Leak areas will glow quite brightly in blue. There is a slightly different method: instead of a spark plug, a spark gap is installed (two electrodes in one housing) and the energy supplied to the spark plug is controlled using it.

In order to increase the durability of the insulation, it is recommended to monitor and constantly keep it clean. The contacts between the spark plugs and each wire are also subject to constant checking and cleaning.

High voltage wires

Features of the ignition module

Now let's talk about a more complex issue - the ignition module and its design features.

The design includes several components, each of which has its own nuances.

Ignition coil

Location

Any work related to repair, testing, and maintenance of the ignition module will be impossible to perform if you do not know basic things - the location of the device.

You can find the ignition module (ignition module) in the engine compartment. Find the high voltage wires that go to the spark plugs. One end is connected to them, and the other goes to the module. The MZ is small in size and enclosed in a plastic housing.

Device location

Principle of operation

Initially, on carburetor cars, the system worked due to the presence of an ignition coil. With injectors everything is somewhat different.

• Initially, the ignition coil is turned on, generating a high voltage current. The coil operates on the principle of magnetic induction;
• Then the electronic control unit MZ is connected to the work, performing the functions of control, transmitting commands, and ensuring the flow of current required by the characteristics to the spark plugs;
• Next, the spark plugs activate the spark, ignition occurs, and so on.

MH malfunctions

The ignition module often shows the most basic sign of failure - lack of spark. But this is not the only indicator of a malfunction. These also include:

• Lack of dynamics when accelerating the car. Trying to quickly pick up speed, you can clearly feel failures in engine operation;
• The engine does not produce the usual power; in some cases, the engine is not able to pull the car uphill;
• The idle speed fluctuates;
• One of the pairs of engine cylinders refuses to work. Here, most likely, there is no current that should come from the ignition coil.

To eliminate problems with the MH, the first thing you need to do is check the spark plugs, and then make sure the other elements are working.

Disconnect and check

Checking the spark plugs

To check the condition of the spark plugs, which may cause the module to malfunction, you need to:

1. Unscrew the spark plugs from their seats, having first removed the high-voltage wires. The elements are removed with a special key.
2. Inspect the spark plugs for carbon deposits, mechanical defects, and poor clearance.
3. Send defective spark plugs to a landfill and install new ones in their place.

If replacing or cleaning the spark plugs does not produce results, then the reason lies in other elements of the ignition module.

Features of connecting high-voltage wires to the VAZ 2114

High-voltage ignition wires of the VAZ 2114 are part of the ignition system, through which an electrical impulse is transmitted from the module to the spark plugs. When the current hits the spark plugs, the fuel mixture ignites in the combustion cylinders, which gives rise to a new stroke of the engine.

BB wires must be of high quality

The design of the GDP, unlike conventional wires, is quite complex. In addition to the conductive core (which is made of copper) and protective insulation, they have metal tips and plastic protective caps.

Metal tips act as contacts; they fit into the sockets on the spark plugs and the ignition module. The durability of the GDP directly depends on how well the tips are made. When purchasing, be sure to check the strength of their attachment to the wire.

General information about the Nine ignition system

The ignition system in the 21099 injector or carburetor is a collection of many components and mechanisms interconnected with each other. The main purpose of the SZ is to produce an electrical discharge, which is subsequently used to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the engine cylinders. One of the main parameters of the SZ is the moment of appearance of this discharge, that is, a spark, since it is this parameter that determines the correct operation of the power unit.

What elements does the SZ electrical circuit include:

1. Coil or module. This device generates a high-voltage discharge and transmits it to the spark plugs via high-voltage cables.
2. Candles. These devices are used to transmit a high-voltage pulse to the cylinders of the power unit, where the fuel-air mixture is located. Spark plugs may not work correctly over time, due to wear or carbon deposits on the electrodes. Such problems can lead to incorrect operation of the engine in general, as well as difficulty starting it in particular.
3. High voltage wires. They connect the distribution unit with the candles. The performance of high-voltage wires is also important, since if they break down, the driver may also experience incorrect functioning of the internal combustion engine.
4. Switchgear. This unit distributes the high-voltage discharge to certain spark plugs, since the cylinders must fire in a certain order. One of the main components of the distributor is the vacuum regulator.
5. Switch.
6. Mounting block.
7. Ignition relay.
8. A switch, that is, a lock. With its help, the driver gives the command to start the engine (the author of the video is Nail Poroshin).

Wiring replacement process

Before the VAZ 2114 armored wires are replaced, it is necessary to remove the old cables. To do this, you should: 1. Turn off the engine ignition. 2. Open the car hood. 3. Remove the old wiring leading to the engine and ignition unit. To maintain the order of connecting high-voltage wires of the VAZ 2114, you must be guided by the following diagram:

Cylinders are numbered from left to right. In the module, the internal ignition cylinder 1 is located on the lower left side. The second and third cylinders are located in the left and right compartments, respectively. The output of the fourth cylinder is located at the bottom in the right compartment.

How to check high voltage wires

Finding high-voltage wires under the hood is not difficult, and diagnosing them is not fraught with any difficulties. There are three ways to check high-voltage wires, each of which allows you to determine whether there is a breakdown in them.

Visual diagnostics

The easiest way to check spark plug wires for insulation damage is to visually inspect them. It is necessary to carefully check that there are no cracks, cuts or severe abrasions across the insulation area.

Another way to visually check spark plug wires is to observe their operation at night. It is necessary to open the hood of the car at night, start the engine, turn off the headlights and watch the high-voltage wires. If they have strong insulation breakdowns, in the dark the “crickets” will be visible to the naked eye.

This is interesting: Reasons why there is no spark on a 4T scooter

Wire check

To check the spark plug wires, an ordinary wire with stripped ends on both sides can be used. In the dark, with the engine running, it is necessary to short-circuit one part of the wire to ground (car body), and run the other part along high-voltage wires in search of a place where the stripped tip will begin to produce a spark.

It is important to check not only the insulating material around the conductor, but also the plastic caps

Diagnostics with a multimeter

A multimeter in automotive diagnostics is most often used as a voltmeter, but it also has another useful function - the ability to measure resistance. To take measurements, you must completely remove the high-voltage wires (or disconnect one wire on both sides). Next, with the probes of the device set to ohmmeter mode, you should touch both sides of the wire, as a result of which the multimeter will display information about the resistance.

The resistance of serviceable high-voltage wires is up to 10 kOhm. At the same time, it can vary practically from zero. This depends on the type of wires themselves, the insulation used in them, the length, the presence of microdamages, and so on.

Typical electrical wiring faults

Malfunctions, as a rule, boil down to the fact that electric current either does not flow to the spark plug at all, or if it does, it is in limited quantities. And this happens for the following reasons:

• When the current-carrying conductor through which the impulse passes breaks
• If there is a current leak, this means that the insulation is damaged, there is a breakdown of current on the side
• The resistance value exceeds the permissible value
• There are problems with the contacts (either with the spark plug, or with the distributor and ignition coil).

If a current-carrying wire breaks, then an internal spark occurs, in other words, a spark discharge is formed between the ends of the broken wire, which greatly reduces the voltage and also causes a parasitic electromagnetic pulse to occur. So:

• The resulting impulse, of course, negatively affects the correct operation of the vehicle’s electrical sensors
• Just one such defective high-voltage electrical wire often causes vibration and interruptions in the operation of the motor.
• In addition, a damaged high-voltage electrical wire leads to ignition in the cylinder with some delay or even every other time, then the synchronization of the operation of the cylinders and the engine as a whole is disrupted

Checking electrical wires

Anyone can check the wires, and do it with their own hands; this does not require electrical knowledge, or special hard-to-find tools or assistants, only the knowledge of what to do and in what order:

• First, you need to check the spark plug wires on the VAZ 21093 visually for visible damage (for example, cracks, kinks, etc.).
• Then you should make sure that there is no breakdown, this can be done even in the absence of any measuring instruments, it will be enough to look under the hood, with the engine running, when it gets dark, if there is a breakdown, then a spark will be visible while the engine is running on the broken electrical wire
• You can also check high-voltage electrical wires using a wire; you just need to take a piece of wire at night and strip the ends on both sides. Then you need to close one end of the wires to ground (this is the body of the machine), and take the other end with your hands and move along the entire length of each electrical wire, not missing joints and caps, etc. A spark will occur at the breakdown points

You can also measure the resistance of high-voltage electrical wires; for this we need a tester (multimeter):

• Turn on ohmmeter mode
• We remove the wire from the spark plug of the first cylinder, disconnect it from the distributor (see The device of the VAZ 2109 distributor: the difference between contact and non-contact ignition systems and adjusting the ignition timing)
• We connect the multimeter electrodes to both ends of the wire and check the readings

For serviceable electrical wires, the resistance varies from 3.5 to 10 kiloohms, it all depends on the type of electrical wires themselves. The resistance value is usually indicated on the insulation of armored electrical wires. When checking each wire, the spread between the values ​​cannot exceed 2-4 kiloohms. If greater variation is detected, the wires should be replaced. By the way, the replacement is made as a set, that is, all together at once; the price here is not a reason to save money all together. In conclusion, we present to your attention the resistance readings for the most popular armored electrical wires:

• Tesla brands have a resistance of 6 kOhm
• Brands Slon (Elephant) with a range from 4 kiloOhm to 7 kiloOhm (where 4 kiloOhm goes to the 1st cylinder and so on up to 7 kiloOhm on the last cylinder)
• ProSport brands have almost zero resistance
• Brands Cargen (Kargen) with a resistance of 0.9 kiloOhm

OPERATIONAL CHECK

To accurately determine whether it is time to change the high-voltage wires of the VAZ, you need to check their performance with a multimeter.

This operation will take you no more than 15 minutes:

• Turn off the ignition;
• We remove the wires: disconnect the first end from the ignition module, the second from the cylinder;
• We switch the tester to ohmmeter mode and connect the multimeter probes to the wire contacts.

If the high-voltage wires on the VAZ 2114 are in normal technical condition, the multimeter will show a resistance within the value indicated on the wire insulation; if the readings are different, the armored wires on the VAZ 2114 need to be replaced. The process must be repeated on each wire in turn.

If the test shows disappointing results, there is a possibility that the problem of increased resistance lies in oxidized contacts. In this case, you can try to revive the VVP by wiping the contacts with VD-40 or carburetor cleaning fluid.

Arrangement of high-voltage ignition wires

High-voltage wires consist of a conductive core, a protective layer (also called insulation), special metal contacts and caps. There are several types of high-voltage wires. The usual (cheap) type of wire is one that consists of stranded wire with thick insulation. The resistance of such high-voltage wires is zero, which does not properly affect the operation of the ignition coil.

The second expensive type of high-voltage wires consists of a thread placed in the center covered with ferroplast on top, which is wound with iron-nickel wire. This type of high voltage wire has sufficient resistance, which greatly reduces radio interference and is suitable for the normal operation of the ignition coil. To further reduce radio interference, increased insulation is used. It should be noted that the correct order of connecting high-voltage wires plays an important role in the normal operation of the engine ignition system.

Insulation of high-voltage wires is designed to prevent electrical leakage and isolate the conductor from moisture and other contaminants. Insulation can be single-layer or multi-layer.

Metal contacts of high-voltage wires (tips) are used to establish a connection between the wire cores and the spark plug sockets and distributor.

Requirements for high-voltage wire lugs:

• Ensuring reliable contact with the wire veins;
• Reliable and durable fastenings;
• Sufficient corrosion resistance and high-quality insulation.

Caps for high-voltage wires ensure tightness of contact connections, protecting the connection points from moisture and current leakage.

The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires: checking and replacing high-voltage wires

To check the wire, you will need a multimeter tester, with the help of which you can measure the resistance of the wires - which should be no more than 20 kOhm (usually the wire of 1 cylinder has a resistance of up to 10 kOhm). If the wire resistance is higher than 20 Kom, it must be replaced. Carefully inspect the wires for wear. When installing wires, do not allow kinks, distortions or tension on the wires.

Malfunctions of high-voltage wires

The main malfunctions of high-voltage wires include electrical circuit breakage and current leakage.

Causes of the malfunction: careless removal of the wire, poor connection, oxidation and subsequent destruction of the high voltage wire core. Current leakage occurs due to moisture entering the connection. At sub-zero temperatures, the insulation of high-voltage wires becomes rigid and the risk of damage to the wires increases. The service life also affects the wear of high-voltage wires. After all, when the engine is running, vibration occurs, which affects all connections, simply loosening them. The connections are also affected by the increased temperature that comes from the engine.

Recommendations for caring for high-voltage wires:

Periodically check high-voltage wires for damage. Check the reliability of connections between the tip and the elements of the ignition system;

Carry out all manipulations to remove and install high-voltage wires carefully and carefully, without tugging at the insulation.

General tips for connecting high-voltage wires.

Checking high-voltage wires. To check the wires, you will need a multimeter tester. Check the resistance of the wires - it should be no more than 20 KOhms (in practice, the longest wire of cylinder 1 has a resistance of up to 10 KOhms). If the wire resistance is more than 20 Kom, it must be replaced. Carefully inspect the wires for chafing on parts of the motor or other wires. In case of significant abrasion, replace the wire. In case of minor abrasion, it is possible to lay the wire so that it does not rub and fix it in this position.

Laying wires. Do not try to connect the wires in a bundle. Disassemble the wiring harnesses, release the wires from the plastic holders. Connect the high-voltage leads to the corresponding cylinder spark plugs. Lay the wires so that they do not rub against each other, engine parts, or hoses. Avoid sharp bends and tension on the wires. After connecting all the wires, secure them into the bundle with special comb holders included in the delivery kit.

The procedure for connecting I/O wires to a VAZ carburetor (2108, 2109, 21099)

The central wire from the distributor cover always goes to the ignition coil (bobbin).

The outlet of the distributor cover, which faces towards the front of the car, is connected to the first cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking down, is connected to the third cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking rearward, is connected to the fourth cylinder.

The outlet of the distributor cap, looking up, is connected to the second cylinder.

The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires to a VAZ Classic, Niva with a carburetor and distributor.

Central wire from the ignition coil (bobbin)

1 cylinder - above the vacuum corrector. Next, clockwise, the order is 1-3-4-2.

Injection VAZ produced before 2004 with an old-style ignition module (4-pin low-voltage connector)

Actually, on the module body it is already indicated which cylinder the pins correspond to - but we duplicated them in red in case the module gets completely dirty, and you might not be able to see it in the photo.

Injection VAZ produced after 2004 with a new ignition coil (3-pin low-voltage connector)

As with the old-style ignition modules, the new coils are also marked with pins corresponding to the cylinders. But the connection order is different from the order on the old-style ignition module. Be careful.

Very often, when repairing a VAZ 2109, high-voltage wires are removed from the ignition distributor or spark plugs. The only problem is that few people remember how they were connected before. To avoid confusion, you need to know the sequence of connecting the high-voltage wires of the VAZ 2109, first to the ignition distributor, and then to the spark plugs of each cylinder.

Connecting wires to the ignition distributor of a VAZ 2109

The ignition distributor cover is placed on it only in one position; it cannot be put on in another way. The distributor cap has a mark; this mark indicates the socket of the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder of the VAZ 2109 engine. The sequence of operation of the cylinders of the VAZ 2109 engine is as follows: 1-3-4-2. The ignition distributor slider rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the cover. Therefore, the lower socket corresponds to the high voltage wire of cylinder No. 3. The next socket, going counterclockwise, corresponds to cylinder #4, and the top socket corresponds to cylinder #2. All this is depicted in the picture below. The numbering of the VAZ 2109 engine cylinders starts from the timing belt and goes from left to right.

Cylinder arrangement VAZ 2109

That is, the cylinder closest to the timing belt is the first, the cylinder closest to the starter is the fourth. If the wires from the ignition distributor are mixed up, the car will not start. Therefore, if you remove high-voltage wires, then you need to connect them back as they were before. And then there are comrades who remove the wires, mix them up and then start a panic that the car has stopped starting.

How does a distributor work?

The distributor design is based on a rotating shaft (the so-called roller), driven by the engine camshaft. Devices and elements of the distributor are mounted on the shaft, which operate from the rotation of the shaft.

Operating principle of the distributor (ignition sensor-distributor) VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The operating principle of the distributor includes the operation of all its elements.

The rotor (runner) rotates and distributes the spark over the side contacts in the distributor cover. Then it goes through high-voltage wires to the spark plugs. The spark is supplied to the slider itself from the ignition coil through a movable central contact in the cover.

The Hall sensor has a gap through which a rotating screen with four teeth and four slots passes. When a screen slot passes through the gap of the sensor, a pulse is sent to the ignition system switch, which is a signal to supply a spark.

The centrifugal ignition timing regulator increases the ignition timing when the distributor shaft rotation speed increases due to the divergence of its weights and the impact on the Hall sensor screen, which allows the fuel mixture to burn in a timely manner and with maximum efficiency.

Operating principle of a centrifugal regulator

The vacuum ignition timing regulator, due to the vacuum transmitted to its housing, also affects the Hall sensor screen and increases the ignition timing angle when the load on the engine increases (the greater the load, the greater the vacuum, the greater the angle).

Vacuum ignition timing regulator for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

By changing the position of the distributor relative to the scale on the housing of the auxiliary units, you can manually adjust the ignition timing up or down.

Adjusting the angle with a distributor, VAZ 2108 car

Notes and additions

— Two different ignition distributors (distributors) with different covers were installed on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars. For engines 2108 and 21083 this is distributor 40.3706, for 21081 – 40.3706-01. They are structurally identical, but differ in the characteristics of the vacuum and centrifugal ignition timing regulators. The distributor cover 40.3706-01, for engine 21081, is marked with yellow paint, the distributor 40.3706 is red. There are no differences between them, they are interchangeable.

Purpose of the distributor cover

The design of the ignition distributor cap (aka distributor) has remained and remains virtually unchanged throughout the entire history of the use of this device as part of the ignition system of gasoline engines:

• On most ignition caps, the contacts for the spark plug wires are marked with numbers that correspond to the serial numbers of the corresponding cylinders
• In addition to protecting the distributor mechanism itself from moisture and dirt, it also serves the purpose of alternating the supply of high-voltage current from the ignition coil winding through high-voltage wires to the spark plugs
• It is because of this narrow specialization that the distributor cap has undergone almost minimal changes along the evolution of all car systems

Let's look at the design and operating principle of this much-needed part.

The distributor cap is a molded part made of non-electrically conductive material (insulator) that has the following device:

• Metal contacts are pressed into this part - these are the side and central electrodes
• The number of side electrodes strictly corresponds to the number of engine spark plugs (but not cylinders, do not forget that there are engines in which there is more than one spark plug for each individual cylinder); the distributor cover on the VAZ 2109 in our case has four side electrodes
• A high-voltage (armor) wire coming from the ignition coil is connected to the central electrode from the outside
• To the side electrodes - high-voltage (armor) wires going to the spark plugs
• Inside the cover itself there is a central contact equipped with a terminal that has a spring-loaded contact element (“carbon”), which transmits voltage to the central (main) contact of the distributor rotor (ignition distributor)

VAZ 2114 engine repair

During the operation of the internal combustion engine on a car, various failures and malfunctions may occur, which can be eliminated by self-repair or with the involvement of specialists. The need for a major overhaul of the power propulsion system, with its proper operation, arises when the mileage reaches 150,000 km. In this case, a VAZ 2114 engine overhaul is needed.

Before you begin disassembling the engine, you need to drain the oil and coolant, and then wash the entire unit. Be sure to remove all attachments so as not to damage them during reassembly. Disconnect all pipes through which gasoline is supplied. Remove all systems and components related to the air supply, remove the air supply and exhaust hoses and pipes. Remove the cooling system pipes and crankcase breather. Don't forget to disconnect the throttle pipe. Remove the receiver, as well as the pipeline mounting bracket and the fuel rail, remove the injectors with regulators. Remove the wires with the ignition module and knock sensor. Unscrew the spark plugs. After this, unscrew all sensors. Remove the generator by first removing the tension belt. With the generator, remove all brackets and strips necessary for its installation and adjustment. Block the flywheel and remove the generator pulley. Remove the camshaft drive with the cover, tension mechanism and pulley. Unscrew the pump, remove the exhaust manifold and thermostat. Disconnect the oil filter and oil sump, then remove the oil pump. In order to remove the piston group, you need to unscrew the nuts from the connecting rod bolts and remove the cover. Since the flywheel is blocked, you need to unscrew its fastenings with the flange and remove the flywheel disk. Remove the caps from the main bearings along with the lower bearings. Carefully pull out the crankshaft

It must be handled very carefully to prevent damage and scratches. Remove the upper liners and thrust half-rings.

Many motorists, especially beginners who have just purchased a VAZ-2114, have wondered how the 8-valve injection engine that is installed on this car works. This article will discuss the design of the motor, its main characteristics, as well as dismantling and repair features. This information will be very useful for beginners and those who do not know how the main power unit works.

Video about the VAZ-2114 engine

CONNECTION FEATURES

The order of connecting high-voltage wires must be strictly sequential, since each cylinder of the engine corresponds to a specific socket on the ignition module. Considering that there is a numbering of the sockets on the ignition module body, the risk of confusing anything is minimal.

The procedure for connecting high-voltage wires of the VAZ 2114 injection type depends on the year of manufacture of your car. Fourteeners before 2004 had 4-pin ignition modules installed, and cars after 2004 had 3-pin coils.

The connection diagram for VAZ 2114 high-voltage wires to the ignition module (until 2004) is as follows:

Connection diagram for VAZ-2114 with ignition coils (after 2004):

In the pictures you can see the numbers of the landing slots. Each number must have a corresponding cylinder connected to it (cylinder numbering is counted from left to right).

To correctly install high-voltage wires on the VAZ 2114, follow the following algorithm of actions:

1. Turn off the ignition. Open the hood and remove the power terminals from the battery;
2. We remove the old GDPs from the mounting sockets on the module and cylinders;
3. We remember the location of the high-voltage wires of the VAZ 2114 and connect new GDPs according to the diagram. Before replacing, it would not be amiss to draw this very diagram by hand on paper so as not to confuse anything;
4. We connect power to the battery and, to check whether we did everything correctly, start the engine.

When installing the wiring, do not try to connect individual air intakes to each other with plastic clamps; to do this, you must use the comb holder that comes with them. A thin clamp can easily wear through the insulating coating. Also make sure that the GDP does not bend.

Connecting armored wires on VAZ 2115 and 2113 is carried out in a similar way.

They break through armored wires, what does it affect?

Basic malfunctions of ignition wires

The main faults of the wires include electrical circuit breakage and current leakage.

An electrical circuit break usually occurs at the point where the metal contact of the wire is connected to the conductor, as well as to other elements of the ignition system. This happens when the wire is removed, when the wire is destroyed or oxidized, as well as when there is poor contact with the terminals of the elements in the ignition system. The place where the connections are broken heats up and sparks, which aggravates the situation and causes the core or metal contacts to burn out. Electricity leaks through contaminated wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, spark plugs, caps and damaged insulation, which contributes to the deterioration of their dielectric properties during operation.

Low temperatures increase the rigidity of high-voltage wires, which increases the possibility of damage to their insulating layer and caps. Constant vibrations from a running engine loosen the contact points, which leads to their deterioration. Rising temperatures have the greatest impact on the spark plug caps, as they are located closest to the heated engine parts. In addition, very often they become unusable when removed. Over time, dirt, dust, moisture, and secretions of fuels and lubricants, which serve as current conductors, collect on the elements of the ignition system. Leaks become even more noticeable when the insulation is damaged and in humid weather. In addition, dirt and moisture increase microcracks.

How to choose high-voltage wires - what to look for

When choosing high-voltage wires, you need to focus on the recommendations of their manufacturer, as well as the engine manufacturer. First of all, you need to study everything that is written on the package. It would be good if it indicated in Russian the models of cars or engines for which the wires were intended.

Do not rush to buy them if the packaging does not contain the manufacturer’s “coordinates” and instructions for their use. Spelling errors in captions are also a warning. There is a very common mistake in the word silicon. It should be taken into account that the international standard ISO 3808 applies to wires for cars, so all inscriptions are determined by the manufacturer.

Wire resistance is measured using a tester. But this method is not acceptable for wires with a current-carrying core wrapped around them, since due to their design features, the resistance value on the motor changes.

The level of interference from the vehicle's electrical equipment and from high-voltage wires is assessed using a car radio. The verification procedure can be seen in the diagram.

The insulation of the wires should not allow breakdown, therefore, when choosing it, take into account the maximum voltage that can be in the ignition system. The insulation and caps must be made of a material that retains its properties over large temperature differences, for example, silicone.

Many car enthusiasts consider car wires to be of secondary importance, and specialized publications do not pay due attention to them. The sellers also cannot say anything intelligible. Nevertheless, this detail is important and deserves attention, both when choosing and operating a car.