Replacing the support bearing Kalina 2 without removing the strut online for free

Support bearing design

The front strut support bearing itself is enclosed in a rubber separator of a specific diameter. The inner race is directly connected to the shock absorber rod. The working element of the product is metal balls arranged in one row around the circumference. The part is protected on the top and bottom sides by thick rubber gaskets.

Support bearing faults

The main sign indicating that a bearing has become unusable is a characteristic knocking sound. It is expressed in the form of dull knocks coming from under the hood of the LADA Kalina, or more precisely, from the location of the pillars.

This soundtrack “tells” the driver about:

presence of damage (rupture) or deformation (wrinkling) of the rubber gasket;
failure of the working element of the support (bearing).

The reasons for bearing failure are as follows:

complete resource exhaustion;
penetration of dirt or moisture into the working area;
exposure to extreme loads;
mechanical destructive effects from a faulty shock absorber.

When to change bearings in Kalina?

On average, the service life of supports (bearings) in a Lada Kalina is 50-100 thousand km, if you know which is better when purchasing them. Its value greatly depends on the operating conditions of the car. Based on this mileage, the owner is recommended to replace the supports (on both sides) without waiting for signs of malfunction to appear.

You cannot neglect replacing worn supports or bearings, as this is guaranteed to cause damage to shock absorbers or other components of the LADA Kalina chassis. How is replacement done without removing the rack?

Price of support bearings

The cost of a bearing “starts” from 300 rubles. The assembled support is more expensive: from 1.2 to 3.0 thousand rubles. Saving is not recommended: you should choose either original products or imported analogues from famous brands (FENOX, TRACK, ASOMI, SS-20). Which is better, everyone determines for himself.

The replacement is not difficult, but if the owner is inclined to service his Lada Kalina purely at the station, then the technician will ask about 500 rubles for the service. Approximately this amount will have to be “sacrificed” for subsequent adjustment of the wheel angles.

Upper front strut support for Kalina - features of choice

As practice shows in most cases, the upper support assembly is replaced. There are three models of “supports” on sale, which you should pay attention to when purchasing.

The photo below shows original sets of supports from three companies: SEVI. SS20 (SS20), ASOMI (ASOMI). The cost of products varies from 2000 rubles. up to 4000 rub. depending on the configuration.

Watch the video on spare parts review:
Comparison of Lada Granta support bearings with EUR

Replacement strut support for Lada Kalina

Replacing support bearings on Lada Kalina

jack and wheel wrench;
pliers and open-end wrenches (“9”; “13”, “17”, “19” and “22”).
a puller that allows you to disconnect the steering tips;
a set of spring ties (2 pcs.).

Bearing replacement procedure

We install the Lada Kalina on a level area and brake it with the handbrake and the engaged gear in the box.
We loosen the wheel tightening torque and jack up the body.
We remove the wheel.
Unscrew the nut of the steering unit tip.
Unscrew it (key to “19”).
Using a puller, remove the ball pin from the socket in the swing arm of the strut. If there is no puller, the finger can be knocked out.
Disconnect the stand from the steering axle. Use a key set to “19” to turn 2 nuts. If the bolt heads need to be supported, then use the key set to “17”.
Using a “13” wrench (preferably a socket), unscrew the fasteners (3 nuts) of the support to the body cup.
We remove the support together with the shock-absorbing strut.
We compress the spring with zip ties until the upper part is released.
Unscrew the central nut of the support using a “22” wrench. Use the key set to “9” to hold the rod.
After removing the support, we resort to disassembling it. We remove the front strut support bearing and change it.
We put the unit back together and proceed to a similar procedure on the other side of the car.

Disassembling the Kalina front suspension module

Here, first of all, we will need spring ties, which can be bought at almost any auto store. Personally, I have them like this, in the photo below:

We put them on the coils of the spring on both sides and, using these devices, compress them (doing this evenly on both sides in turn so that there are no distortions):

When you see that the springs are sufficiently tightened and do not rest against the strut support, you can unscrew the top nut:

Now you can remove the support along with the bearing, cup and rubber band. I didn’t stand on ceremony and rushed a little - in the end, I had to reassemble the old bearing later. But I repeat - it’s better to remove this entire structure assembled, and not like in my photo below:

Let's sum it up

Having completed the repair procedure, we go to the service station to adjust the wheel alignment. We “listen” to new supports (bearings) on the road, initially choosing those that best suit your car, making sure that there are no extraneous sounds.

Front support struts and support bearings are integral components of the chassis. Thanks to shock absorbers and struts, impacts coming from the wheels are softened, and vibration and swaying of the car body is also reduced. However, nothing lasts forever; unfortunately, due to constant high loads, the racks and support bearings fail. Delay or untimely detection of non-working struts or support bearings is fraught with serious consequences; if you do not replace failed parts in a timely manner, there is a possibility of complete destruction of the chassis. A faulty chassis increases the likelihood of an accident significantly, so do not delay repairs and regularly monitor the condition of the struts, suspension, silent blocks, and support bearings.

Before you start replacing, find out how to check the VAZ support frame.

Today we’ll talk about how to replace the support bearing of a Lada Kalina with your own hands.

IMPORTANT!

Please accept this information as mandatory! After you have carried out work on installing new front struts on the Lada Kalina, you should immediately visit a vehicle technical inspection station to carry out work on the vehicle's wheel alignment, since during the work all the previously established angles were violated. Neglecting this can cause not only rapid and uneven wear of tires and mechanisms, but also lead to a traffic accident.

The support bearing is one of the leading elements of the suspension of any car, and the Lada Kalina is no exception. The movement of a car is associated with constant shocks from the suspension, especially on our roads. This part allows you to absorb the vast majority of loads, taking them upon yourself and distributing them evenly, so that the suspension and body remain in working order.

However, like other components, support bearings wear out over time, after which it is time to replace them. Today we’ll talk about what reasons can lead to a malfunction of this suspension element, how to determine their presence and how to replace it with a Lada Kalina.

Replacing the support bearing Lada Kalina is impossible without:

Special wrench for removing the support bearing.
A puller for pressing out steering tips (although sometimes it is possible without it).
Special couplers for compressing (uniting) springs.
Hammer and set of keys.
Support bearing Lada Kalina.

Replacing the support bearing Lada Kalina - detailed guide

1. I’ll share a little trick, the fact is that in most reports on replacing struts or support bearings that I have come across, the support nut is unscrewed after removing the strut. You need to clamp the stand in a vice and “dance with a tambourine” for a long time. I think this is wrong and recommend unscrewing the nut right away. Place the “reinforcement pipe” on the special wrench and unscrew the support.

Guide to assembling new parts into a suspension element

At the very beginning, you need to put a bump stop on the suspension rod, which comes with the boot.

If you are going to install new springs, then initially they need to be tightened in the same way as the old ones. After the springs are tightened, we put them in place. In this case, you need to make sure that the spring falls into a special recess.

Having installed the spring, you need to prepare the support with the bearing. To do this, insert a bearing into the support.

A special flange is installed on top of the bearing and a rubber seal is installed on top of the flange.

We mount the assembled element onto the suspension rod and tighten the fixing nut.

When tightening the nut, you should control the rod so that it does not turn. It should turn out that the upper coil of the springs fits completely onto the sealing rubber. Thus, the front suspension of the Lada Kalina is assembled.

After completing the assembly, the tie elements should be removed from the spring. It is important to find the marking arrows on the spacer that indicate the direction of movement of the machine. Now we insert the entire stand assembly into the glass. After three bolts fall into the holes, screw the nuts on top. Next comes the most painstaking process of getting the strut into the steering knuckle. After that, we twist everything and tighten it to the end. Replacing Kalina front struts is not a very difficult process if you do everything correctly and in the right sequence. When you take on the suspension bulkhead from the second side, everything will work out much faster. And finally, after completion of work with the replacement of front suspension elements, it is necessary to carry out a procedure to regulate the alignment. This procedure will be carried out very quickly and efficiently in a car service center. Doing this yourself without skills is quite difficult and can only make things worse. It is best to go to a car service immediately after completing work on replacing the suspension elements. If you delay this, you will most likely have to change the tires as well. Tire wear is not the worst thing, but since all corners are broken when reinstalling the suspension strut, you can get into an accident when turning.

How to identify a malfunction

Are you bothered by some strange sounds in the chassis? Can you clearly hear its knocking while driving? This means that you urgently need to assess the condition of the suspension, since it is possible that you had to deal with:

bearing damage;
damage to the gasket.

There can be many reasons for the failure of support bearings, and they are the same for the vast majority of cars, including the Lada Kalina. First of all, we are talking about problems such as:

Wear of the element (as a rule, the service life of support bearings on the Lada Kalina is designed for 50,000 - 100,000 km).
Getting dirt and dust inside, which is very important for most of our regions where there are practically no roads.
Damage due to excessive load on the shock absorber.
Failure due to damage to the shock absorber itself.

Hi, it's not a bushing, it's just a thick washer. Of course I used it, it wouldn’t be possible without it. In stores building materials, 5 rubles per piece. It is only necessary if you have a rack 1118, not 2190. And since the grant support is slightly lower in height relative to the Kalinovskaya, there are not enough threads on the rod to completely tighten the nut

Cool. One of these days I’ll also do this kind of alteration...everything has already been bought. I’ve heard that after such an alteration many people put mustaches from VAZ 2110 and tips on the steering rack...haven’t heard of that?

So on Kalina 2 they have been installed from the factory since 2110, the Kalinovsky mustache showed itself badly, I bought myself a rail with the tenth mustache. But the 2110 rack does not fit, the fastenings are different, either viburnum or 2112. Structurally, the changes between them are small, the comb and worm are different, everything else is the same. The difference is in the price tag. I set myself with 2112 and have already reeled off 100,000, the main thing is to disassemble and lubricate it all before installation. Otherwise, at the factory they skimp on the lubricant, and then after 30,000 it starts knocking. By the way, for the chassis, for these 100,000, I only replaced the stabilizer struts and the support bearings at the 80th thousand, and so everything is alive. So I don’t believe those who say that the Grant chassis does not fit on Kalinov struts, everything is good. The only thing is, if you are a fan of landing, then look for Grant struts, because when you install the Grant kit on the Kalinov strut, the ground clearance increases. I like it better this way.

Damn, this is bad... 3000 km ago I bought viburnum struts for 6000 rubles... I wouldn’t want to invest that much more

I would have made it even lower, on the contrary... I don’t like the high one... I got my brother’s grant and his old supports for free. They’re whole...—I’ll install 12mm and then we’ll see

If you hang the car on a lift, you won’t be able to turn the steering wheel (the steering ends touch the window). When the car is on wheels it’s normal. I found the parameters of the racks (only the housings for now) - 1119 and 2190 are different. Today I’ll redo it back, I’ll take a picture of everything and post it so as not to make a fuss.

To all readers and dreamers, like me, about such a modification, I want to tell you what I encountered after reading such posts... When I bought all this and installed it, it turned out that this design is dangerous to ride on! Granta's support is several centimeters lower than Kalina's support, and accordingly the entire rack and everything that hangs on it drops these centimeters down in the lowest position (the car is jacked up or the wheel falls into the hole while driving). The steering rod also lowers, and in its lowest position it almost rests on the window of the apron in which it walks. And on the steering tip, the bolt for fixing it is located below the tip itself and when turning the steering wheel it clings to this window cut out in the body (there are no rubber seals)!

Read also: Is it possible to drive without a sales contract?

In addition, when the stand goes down, the lever greatly changes its angle of inclination and clamps the boot of the outer grenade, which will saw through itself within two days maximum!

CONCLUSION: Kalina and Granta have the same body, but different struts. To install supports from Granta, you also need to install racks from Granta (they have different strokes and rod lengths).

PS I spent 2000 rubles. and spent the whole day fiddling around until 12 at night. I removed the rack three times and thought about how to modify and solve the problem... NO FUCK! And I was only fiddling with one side (there wasn’t enough time for the second side ) Tomorrow I will remove the Grantovskaya support and return the Kalinovskaya one. You can imagine how much pleasure all this gave me  I’ll post photos later...

I've been using these supports for over a year, I've driven 60,000 miles, no problems. I gave it to my father before, no problems either. Nothing gets stuck, nothing gets blocked. Analyze all the posts dedicated to this modification and you won’t find such problems. The stand remains at the same level as on the drain, only the rod goes down two centimeters, and the upward stroke of the stand increases, but not critically; if it gets into a hole, the rod still does not open completely, in the lower position due to the installation of a bumper from the vases 2110, the rod does not reach the stop. So I don’t know what kind of problems you have there, everything is fine for me, my father has been riding on such a system for two years, on his viburnum there was an experiment. Which didn’t fail, unfortunately, during the first rework there were not big problems, there is a link in the post, but not as dramatic as yours.

I'll get better, castor is not 1.5 degrees but 1 g 50 min)))

Thanks for the info. I switched to granto supports and did everything on the list. It's time to change the factory struts. The mileage is 140,000, the left strut exploded in the cold during the next jump on a policeman))) the oil just came out like a fountain. I installed DEMFI comfort grant struts, my own barrel springs, Sevi-expert supports 12 mm offset, new bearings from Vologda. I arrived an hour ago from having the wheel alignment adjusted. Until I noticed a miracle))) castor is now 1.5 degrees, I don’t know how it was. Those who want to switch, first of all, ask for the availability of the cheapest part, namely 4 washers, for some reason there is a shortage.

And if the spring is barrel-shaped, are these Prior glasses needed?

Of course, in any case, the glass is placed in the Priorovsky type, only the cushion on the spring has its own for each type of spring. Under a cone-shaped pillow with a protrusion, under a barrel-shaped flat

Damn, I already bought a ssss20 pillow, it has a step and barrel springs, won’t it fit?

I described it in detail, it won’t work. The support bearing will become misaligned, as in the 9th photo.

12. Telescopic stand GRANT (or equivalent).

The sleeve directly under the nut.

When attaching the support to the body, it is necessary to correctly orient it relative to the direction of movement of the car, guided by the arrows on the rubber element.

We change bearings correctly!

Actually, there are no difficulties in changing the bearing on Kalina. The main thing is to follow the step-by-step instructions that we will give below, and you will be able to deal with this trouble without any problems. So, to replace these components you need:

Place the car on a flat surface and put it in gear.
Remove the wheel from the side from which the bearing will be replaced.
Remove the tie rod end nut. To do this, you will need a 19 mm wrench and pliers for removing the cotter pins.
Use a special puller to remove the tip pin from the stand. If you don’t have a puller at hand, you can knock it out by prying it from below with a small crowbar.
We tighten the nuts securing the strut to the steering knuckle. To do this we will need a 19mm wrench and possibly a 17mm wrench to support the bolt heads.
Remove the nuts securing the shock absorber to the body. To do this, use a 13 mm socket wrench.
We remove the shock absorber, install it on the tie spring and compress it until its upper part appears.
Remove the nut of the upper shock absorber support. To do this you will need keys for 9 and 22.
We are replacing the bearing.
We assemble and install the shock absorber in the reverse order.

As you can see, the procedure is absolutely elementary and will not take much time; the most important thing is to do everything in accordance with the steps indicated above. If any points remain unclear to you, it is advisable to watch the video instructions for replacing the support bearing with and without removing the strut. Remember, you should not delay in eliminating malfunctions of this kind, because they can lead to more serious consequences, and you will need to spend a lot of money to eliminate them.

How to replace support brackets on Kalina yourself

Lada Kalina Hatchback RED LABEL Logbook We are going through the suspension. Replacing daisies, silent blocks and grant crabs

To replace the bearing, in addition to a standard set of keys, you will need special pullers to remove the support and spring tensioner.

Unscrew the support and remove the stand

So, in order to unscrew the support we need a special key. With its help, we can easily unscrew the fastening nut as shown in the photo below.

We put a special wrench on the support nut; for ease of unscrewing, we will need a larger lever (a regular one with a diameter will do). We begin to unscrew the support as shown in the photo.

If you don’t have a special wrench at hand, then take a regular 22mm socket wrench and put it on the nut, use a 9mm wrench to hold the rod from turning and unscrew the fastening nut. After we have unscrewed the nut, we proceed to remove the shock absorber strut.

Disconnect the brake hoses that are attached to the strut. Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle. To easily unscrew them, we recommend spraying them with penetrating lubricant or WD40 and letting them sit for a couple of minutes. After this, you can easily unscrew the bolts without fear of stripping the threads.

Next, unscrew the nut securing the steering end to the strut. This can be done either using a special puller as shown in the photo, or knocking the tip out of the rack with a hammer. Now all that remains is to unscrew the 3 upper bolts securing the strut with the support to the body and pull out the strut.

Removing the old and installing a new support bearing

After we have removed the strut, we take two spring ties, put them on the spring and begin to tighten them until we can unscrew the nut. After unscrewing the top fastening nut, you can easily remove the support along with the bearing, cup and rubber band. If the anther is intact, you can leave it alone.

We take a new support bearing, put it on the stand and assemble the stand in the reverse order. Instead of factory rubber bands, you can install sound insulators from SS20, which are said to prevent squeaking. After we have assembled the rack with the new support, we remove the spring ties and install the rack in place.