VAZ 21214 fuel pump does not work

The topic of the article is a drain and drainless ramp, a two-flame injector and a fuel pressure regulator. A little theory on the Niva’s injectors, or why the Niva doesn’t even run at its “80 horsepower”. I put this power in quotes because engines with Euro-2 and Euro-3 firmware are still close to these data. And what is now coming out of the factory with Euro-4 firmware and an electronic pedal does not even come close to this figure. Perhaps this article should be divided into two parts.

1. Forces for the ramp with drain (return) and fuel pressure regulator (hereinafter referred to as RTD). 2. Double-jet nozzles for ramp without drain. Each injector has a characteristic called static performance. This value is measured with a fully open nozzle in g/min or cm3/min at a certain pressure. There are a lot of dissertations and formulas on the web on the subject of calculating the required forces for an engine. However, I have always liked short empirical-type formulas for calculations to understand “is it growing or not growing.” And you can calculate more accurately later using special programs. In particular, we will be very interested in the formula for selecting an injector based on engine power. It is calculated as follows. Static performance/5.25. Of course, the coefficient in the denominator is more complex, but it is suitable for rough calculations. Now we take 502 nozzles, which are located on the drain ramp. These forces, according to the Bosch tables, have a static performance of 132 cubes.

132/5.253571=25 hp This is the power that can be removed from one cylinder using this nozzle, at a load of 90-95% and a pressure in the ramp of 3 atmospheres. For 4 cylinders: 25*4=100 hp. If you replace the RTD and increase the pressure in the line to 3.8 atmospheres, the reading increases by 12%. 100*1.12=112 hp Thus, we see that the forces actually work at their limit. That is, if we give the engine more air, by using a large throttle or sawn channels, then we will not get more power until we change the injectors to more efficient ones. Rhetorical question: why is it like this on our car? Because all the electronics and fuel equipment in particular were taken from the “two-wheeler”, where the engine has a volume of 1.5 liters and there are enough injectors to spare. Now let's get specific.

Lada 4×4 3D › Logbook › Injectors standard installed on VAZ vehicles

Maybe someone is interested!
Fuel injectors standardly installed on VAZ vehicles Recently, AvtoVAZ has significantly expanded the range of injectors installed on the assembly line. Currently, 4 types of Siemens Deka injectors are “seen” on VAZs: “thin” 20734 (orange) / 20735 (blue) and “thick” 6393 (beige) / 20734 (yellow). The situation with the same number of injectors of different design is incomprehensible, but it is a fact.

BOSCH injectors with catalog numbers 0 280 158 502 and 0 280 158 022 are also installed.

Bosch 0 280 158 017 These injectors have so far been encountered only once on the Kalina car.

“Thin” Siemens differ in the location of the nozzles, in 20734 all 4 nozzles are located in the same plane in a cone-shaped recess, and in 20735 they are spaced apart in pairs in two different planes (see photo). Such injectors are called “double-flare”, each torch pours fuel onto “its own” inlet valve, and not onto the partition between them.

“Thick” Siemens Deka nozzles are available in two types: 6393 (beige) and 20734 (yellow). It is unclear what caused the use of the same code (20734) for structurally different injectors. I don’t want to think that there weren’t enough numbers or imagination :). There is an assumption that the “thin” nozzles for some reason did not suit Siemens-Deka and they were replaced with ordinary ones.

No clear relationship has been found at this time between engine type and installed injectors. At this time, statistics are being collected on installed injectors on different engines. At the moment, the generalized table looks like this:

What to do when the old injectors are out of order, and new ones with the same catalog number cannot be found? For example, BOSCH 0 280 150 996 injectors are no longer produced, but they can be successfully replaced with BOSCH 0 280 158 110 or 0 280 158 502, and the latter are 1.5 times cheaper than the full analogue 110. Currently, VAZ injectors are installed on VAZ engines from Siemens and BOSCH (see table). No clear relationship has yet been found between the engine type and the installed injectors. I will only note that Bosch injectors with catalog numbers 0280158502 0280158022 0280158017 have the same static productivity of 132 ml/min. Interchangeability of VAZ engine injectors

Source

Fuel injector VAZ 2107, 21214 Niva, 2110-2115 EURO 2.3 Bosch 0280158502

in stock see availability in other cities

Manufacturer:	Bosch
Vendor code:	0280158502
Catalog:	0 280 158 502
Name:	Fuel injector VAZ 2107, 21214 Niva, 2110-2115 EURO 2.3 Bosch 0280158502
Product from category: In categories:	VAZ engine / spare parts for VAZ power system / all injectors for VAZ
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Chevrolet Niva Explorer › Logbook › Replacing old injectors with SIEMENS 20735

While the spare beam is being strengthened, after the shock absorber house broke while hunting, I decided to do a little work on the engine.

Since the summer, error 0171 began to appear - lean mixture

and it was annoying to have a certain floating speed (especially on gasoline), sometimes strong from 720 to 980 at idle at the “on-board” level. A couple of times when warming up, the engine stopped, and only when running on gasoline. This was especially unnerving at traffic lights...

But the peculiarity of our car is that even with this, the car drives and is very lacking. Gas consumption increased slightly to 14.7 liters, but I didn’t worry too much. And the engine ran smoother on gas than on gasoline.

Foolishly, I filled the tank of the 95 with a full tank and decided to try this kind of flushing. The tank is completely depleted. As it should be - NO MIRACLE HAPPENED

First friend "DIAGNOST"

without any instruments - I sent it to the store for a new fuel pump. I refused…

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Main and additional fuse blocks

These two blocks are connected to each other. There are 10 fuses in the upper block, and 6 in the lower one. Markings from left to right:

Heater fan, rear window defroster, rear wiper and washer system, windshield washer pump

Steering column switch, windshield wipers, hazard warning lights, breaker relay (in turn signal mode), reverse light, instrument cluster (coolant temperature gauge, fuel level gauge, tachometer, warning lights: turn indicators, differential lock, parking brake, emergency condition of the working brake system, insufficient oil pressure, fuel reserve, battery charge)

Left headlight (high beam), high beam indicator lamp

Right headlight (high beam)

Left headlight (low beam)

Right headlight (low beam)

Side light lamps in the left front and left rear lights, license plate lights, side light indicator lamp

Side light lamps in the right front and right rear lamps, backlight lamps for the instrument cluster, cigarette lighter, switches, heating and ventilation control unit

Hazard switch, breaker relay (in hazard mode), heated tailgate glass relay contacts

Sound signal, interior lamps, brake lamps in the rear lights

Fog light relay contacts in rear lights

495 posts on previous pages

Selection of injectors for NIVA CHEVROLET

Welcome to ChipTuner Forum.

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I read that it is recommended for a drainless ramp to install DEKA VAZ 20735 two flare injectors instead of the standard ones, and according to the table they correspond to BOSCH 0280158022.

1. Someone may have installed Bosch 0280158 022 injectors instead of the standard DEKA VAZ 20734? Do they fit exactly without altering the ramp mount?

2. Will the traction characteristics of the Niva improve after installing Bosch 0280158022 injectors for 16 valve engines?

dvk288

ervik

“Drainless ramp (new model).

dvk288

In reality it might be better at XX. Under load it makes no difference IMHO. The task is to forcefully provide the internal combustion engine with an optimal mixture over the entire range. There are many nuances on this engine and car, from the spacer between the steering wheel to the tire pressure. IMHO

As they say there is 0.001% improvement, here 0.02%, etc. but in total.

pandel007

kalinino

dvk288

Here is phased injection. Black rectangle - injector opening, yellow - inlet, lightning - spark.

plast

vitas-stv

RedLine123

It is possible to improve engine thrust due to dual-flame injection.

Added after 53 seconds

or will there be no difference on an 8 valve engine?

dvk288

ervik

the injectors that are currently installed are overfilled, it doesn’t start well without a boost of gas when hot, I washed them twice without removing them using a Winns installation and once cleaned the ones that were removed with an ultrasound, after all the cleanings the performance improved, but still the engine operation is not very smooth at idle, it shoots into the muffler, dynamics sometimes with dips and then picking up. So, after diagnostics, I decided to change the injectors; before that I changed the fuel pump (it didn’t produce the required pressure, measured with a pressure gauge) and the fuel filter. when choosing injectors I came across this article about tuning Shnivy:

Installation

I have repeatedly read in German manuals that flushing the injectors needs to be done once every 50 thousand km. In our country, no one bothers themselves with this and usually they do this process when the car “stops moving.” In fact, this is not what I wanted to draw attention to. There are rubber sealing rings on the nose and tail of the nozzle. Our vast country has a range of air temperatures from -50 to +50 and very often the nozzle itself is even more alive than all living things, and the rings are cracked and air is leaking through them. So if you plan to remove the injectors for cleaning or diagnostics, keep “normal” rings ready. Important: of course, ideally, after installing other forces in the firmware, you need to change the numbers for static performance. Maybe even do ON-line setup and testing. But as practice has shown, the electronics “copes” with these forces without getting into the firmware. Only the firmware should not be Euro-4))) In the case of both ramps, it is highly desirable to install a fuel pump with increased performance.

What causes a malfunction of Chevrolet Niva injectors, tips on selection, flushing and replacement

The Chevrolet Niva, like most modern cars, is equipped with an injection engine with a fuel injection system.
Electromagnetic injectors are the key elements of this system. They spray the required amount of gasoline, forming an air-fuel mixture that enters the combustion chambers. The valves built into the injectors open upon command from the engine ECU.

This allows you to dose the fuel supply to the cylinders. If malfunctions occur, engine operating parameters deteriorate. In case of serious problems, the engine starts to stall or stops starting altogether.

Symptoms of a problem

Contamination of the channel or malfunction of the solenoid valve is manifested as follows:

The engine starts poorly and runs unstably.
Increased or decreased idle speeds are observed, the engine may stall when the gas pedal is released.
Power deteriorates.
Acceptance decreases.
Fuel consumption is increasing.
The content of harmful substances in exhaust gases increases.
Black smoke appears from the exhaust pipe.
Glow ignition is observed (if the valve is not completely closed).

Important: the listed symptoms also occur for other reasons. Therefore, before you start cleaning or replacing injectors, they should be checked.

Examination

The operation of the solenoid valve can be checked without removing parts from the machine. For this you will need a multimeter.

The check is performed as follows:

The solenoid valve winding has a resistance of 11-15 ohms. If the device readings differ from the nominal values, the parts must be replaced.

Important: this method does not reveal whether the jets are clogged or incompletely closed. Therefore, for a comprehensive check you will have to remove it from the engine.

To diagnose the operation of injection parts, special equipment is required. Therefore, a full check can only be performed at a service station. To diagnose at home, you must perform the following steps:

The opening of the shutter and the shape of the torch can be checked by applying 12 volts from the battery to the terminals. The fuel should be sprayed in the form of a conical torch. Before doing this, you need to make sure that the fuel pump is turned on and creates sufficient pressure.

Video “How to find the cause of a pump failure”

For more details on finding the cause of a fuel pump failure, watch the video (author - Sergey L).

One of the most important elements of the fuel injection system of a gasoline engine is the electric fuel pump, which is located in the fuel tank of the car. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure.

Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the required pressure;
the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on;

Chevrolet Niva injection repair

Injectors can be washed on a bench or using a fuel additive. However, at home this operation is performed using a syringe. To do this, you will have to first remove the parts.

For dismantling you will need the following tools:

Removing the injectors is done as follows:

Attention: when completely removing the ramp from the engine, you need to loosen the clamp and disconnect the fuel line tube.

Assembly of the unit is carried out in the reverse order. When installing new parts, the O-rings should be replaced. After completing the work, it is necessary to pour the coolant from the container into the expansion tank.

Reasons why Lada 4×4 does not start (the starter does not turn)

Possible malfunction	Diagnostics	Solution
Battery is discharged	The starter clicks but does not turn. The voltage at the battery terminals with consumers turned on is less than 12 V	Charge or replace the battery
Oxidation of battery terminals or poor connection	The starter clicks but does not turn. When the starter is turned on, the voltage at its terminals drops much more than at the battery terminals	Clean the contacts, lubricate with Vaseline and tighten well
There are problems in the wiring of the starter traction (retractor) relay, ignition contacts 30 and 50 do not close.	When turning the key there is no click under the hood (the relay does not work). Check the presence of voltage at the control contact of the solenoid relay	Clean the contacts, lubricate with Vaseline and tighten well. Replace the ignition switch
The starter solenoid relay is faulty.	When you turn the key, there is no click under the hood (the relay does not work), but there is 12 V at the control contact of the solenoid relay. The starter spins when closed with a screwdriver. The starter does not turn only when it is hot (when the engine is warm)	Replace starter relay
Solenoid relay contacts are oxidized, poor ground contact	When you turn the key there is a click under the hood, but the starter does not turn. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the “battery - starter” circuit, as well as the ground wire. If the circuits are OK, remove the starter and check the operation of its relay	Clean the contacts, lubricate with Vaseline and tighten well. Replace the solenoid relay
Open or short circuit in the holding coil of the solenoid relay	When the starter is turned on, a cracking noise is heard from under the hood. The battery voltage is within normal limits. The relay is checked with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating	Replace starter relay
Burnt starter commutator, stuck brushes or severe wear	The starter does not turn or turns slowly. With the starter removed, check the pressing force of the brushes to the commutator, their residual height, and wear of the commutator	Repair the starter. If the commutator is very worn, replace the starter.
Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding	The starter does not turn or turns slowly. The serviceability of the winding is checked with an ohmmeter or by darkening of the insulation	Replace starter
Freewheel slipping	The starter spins, but the flywheel is stationary	Replace clutch or starter
The ring gear rotates on the flywheel	The starter spins, but the flywheel and crankshaft are stationary. There is a squeal, a howl from the clutch housing	Replace flywheel
The engine or attachments are jammed	Check the rotation of the crankshaft, alternator pulleys, coolant pump and power steering pump	Repair the engine or its attachments
The starter drive gear or flywheel ring teeth are damaged	Visual inspection after removing the starter	Repair or replace starter, replace flywheel

Have you encountered the problem of starting the engine when the starter does not turn? What was the cause of your problem? Let us remind you that other instructions for repair and operation of Lada 4×4 can be found in this category or by content.

Keywords: 4x4 starter | 4x4 engine | 4x4 ignition system | 4x4 power system | ECM 4x4

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Often, owners of a VAZ 2121 or 2131 SUV encounter problems with starting the engine. For example, when you turn the ignition key, the starter does not turn. Let's look at possible problems with the Niva 4x4 starter and ways to solve them.

The condition of the roads and external conditions in our country are such that many people need a cross-country vehicle. The Chevrolet Niva is considered an excellent option that combines a low price and good quality. When operating this machine, special attention must be paid to the starter, the rules for its use and repair.

Also interesting: DIY Niva 21213 transfer case repair: video instructions

January 28, 2016 LadaOnline 150 630

Often, owners of a VAZ 2121 or 2131 SUV encounter problems with starting the engine. For example, when you turn the ignition key, the starter does not turn. Let's look at possible problems with the Lada 4×4 starter and ways to solve them.

If the car does not react in any way to turning the key, you need to check the devices sequentially in the following order.

Flushing

To work, you will need a medical syringe and liquid to clean the injector.
You will also need a pair of wires to supply 12 volts to the solenoid valve contacts.

The removed nozzle must be placed on a five-cc syringe filled with flushing liquid.

It remains to press the syringe while simultaneously applying voltage to the solenoid valve.

To prevent the winding from burning out, you should periodically open the contacts.

Important: after washing, when the liquid in the syringe runs out, pull out the piston. This will help remove insoluble deposits using airflow.

If possible, to open the electromagnetic one, instead of 12 volts from the battery, it is worth supplying 5 volts from a constant voltage source. In this case, you can not open the contacts and concentrate on washing.