The battery charging lamp for VAZ 2112 16 valves is dimly lit

This is what the battery charge lamp looks like

When the ignition is turned on, the VAZ 2110 battery warning light and the oil pressure light come on, everyone knows this; after the engine starts, both lights should go out. There are often situations when one of the lights continues to light, if it is an oil pressure light, this means problems with the engine, you may have to make repairs, but if the VAZ 2110 battery light is on, this is no longer so dangerous.

The main purpose of the battery warning light

The indicator in question is designed to let the driver know whether the battery is charging or whether the entire electrical network is powered directly from the battery while driving.

When the ignition is turned on, all warning lamps light up; when the engine starts, all indicators should go out. In this case, the battery charging system is working properly and there is nothing to worry about.

Otherwise, if the battery lamp still lights up, then you should look for a malfunction.

Indication symbols

As you know, all the lights on the control panel come on when the ignition is turned on, and then, when the engine is already running, most of them go out. But when one remains on or blinks, this cannot but be alarming, because not everyone can immediately figure out what malfunctions this indicates, which of the systems needs urgent repairs.

Let's look at the designations of the instrument panel of the VAZ 2110. You should know that regardless of whether the panel is new or old on your car, the designations are almost the same, but the indicators may be located slightly differently.

The battery light is on - what does it mean?

There can be only one reason why the battery warning light comes on while the engine is running - there is no voltage supply from the generator or its value is insufficient.

The main malfunctions that lead to this:

Lack of quality contact at the battery terminals.
Damage to the alternator belt or loose tension.
There is no negative contact with ground.
An open circuit in the rotor excitation circuit or worn brushes in the generator.
Failures of the diode bridge are usually accompanied by a dim lighting of the battery light on the dashboard.
Fuse failure.
Malfunction of the relay regulator.

Before you start troubleshooting, pay attention to why the lamp is on. If there is no voltage supplied to the battery at all, then the lamp lights up correctly. In another situation, the operation of the signal indicator while charging is present significantly complicates the problem.

First of all, determine whether there is voltage on the battery. To do this, take a voltmeter (multimeter), start the engine and measure the required characteristic at the battery terminals.

If everything is in good condition, you will see readings in the range from 13.6 to 14.2 V. In this case, the battery is charging properly. If the results obtained differ significantly from normal, then there is some kind of breakdown in the system.

Bottom part

Let's look at the indicators at the bottom of the control panel. If they don’t light up, it means the machine is working normally, and when any of them lights up, this indicates a malfunction in certain components. Most often, this is a signal that repairs are needed, and the sooner the better. From left to right:

The indicator on the far left at the bottom is the air damper light (if you have a carburetor engine);
Icon in the form of an oil can. If this light comes on, it means there is insufficient oil pressure in the engine. An alarming signal. You need to stop, find the reason;
A round icon with the letter P inside on the control panel indicates that you have the parking brake on, which, as you know, should be turned off when moving away;
Indicator of a fault related to the generator or battery (a symbolic image of the battery is shown on the indicator). Perhaps the battery is not charging from the generator, there is an open circuit, or the generator belt is loose or broken. In any case, your intervention and repairs are needed, otherwise troubles cannot be avoided;
If the engine is running and the Check Engine indicator is on on the control panel, this is the most unpleasant thing for the driver, since it indicates serious malfunctions in the engine. In general, when this indicator lights up, it is recommended to stop driving and turn off the engine. Most likely it needs repairs;
Typically there is a red triangle above the Check Engine. It lights up when the “hazard light” is on - an emergency signal sign;
The headlight light indicates that the high beam is on. Designed to control headlights: when an oncoming car appears, do not forget to switch to low beam;
A very important indication icon on the front panel (in a red circle) is a signal that there is not enough brake fluid. Perhaps it is leaking somewhere, which it is advisable to find out as soon as possible and, if necessary, carry out urgent repairs and replenish the level;
The icon of a burning light is a control for turning on the dimensions;
In addition to the indicated lights, the front control panel has time indicators (and a button for setting hours and minutes) as well as a display that shows the total and daily mileage. On the new panel, this display may be narrow.

Poor contact at battery terminals

Check the condition of the battery terminals and battery contact wires.
It is not uncommon for oxidation to occur in these places and the contact to weaken significantly. When the lamp comes on and there is charging, this could be the cause. In this case, the generator operates normally, voltage is supplied to the battery, but weakens due to insufficient contact. As a result, the warning light on the dashboard comes on. As a rule, the indication lights up dimly.

To fix the problem, you need to clean the terminals and contact pins. Additionally, treat these elements with a water-repellent agent.

Removal and modification

Here's a quick look at the device and control panel icons. If for some reason she refuses, don’t immediately panic. Most often, the reason is the absence of contacts in some place in the wiring. But of course, if you wish, you can completely change or tune the panel.

For example, remove the cover and replace the light bulbs with brighter LEDs. Such a panel works brighter and the signals sent by the car will be more noticeable to the driver. If desired, you can install a more solid europanel, which will transform the interior.

Disconnect the “-” wire from the battery;
Remove the shield by unscrewing the screws;
Remove the fastenings of the control panel to the trim, remove the instrument cluster from the socket;
Remove the glass mask;
Disconnect the wires from the block;
Make changes to the instrument panel or replace it with a new one. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

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Diode bridge faults

The electrical circuit is designed to convert alternating voltage to direct voltage. If a breakdown of at least one of the diodes occurs, the functional unit ceases to perform its duties. The consequence of this is the supply of voltage that does not correspond to the required indicators.

The rectifier needs to be checked when the battery charging light is on, but there is charging.

You can determine the breakdown by using a multimeter. Take a tester and connect the red probe to the positive of the bridge, and the black one to one of the contacts marked AC.

The throughput voltage for diodes (silicon) ranges from 400 to 1000 mV. If the tester shows different values, then the bridge needs to be changed. Such a unit cannot be repaired.

Top part

So let's start from left to right. First, the top part of the control panel:

Side scale from 50 to 130 and arrow. Shows the temperature of antifreeze (antifreeze) in the engine cooling system;
Almost round scale (0 – 80) and arrow. Tachometer showing engine speed;
Two arrows at the top, almost in the middle of the control panel - turn signals (right, left);
Speedometer. Well, this device, probably everyone knows, shows the speed at which the car is moving;
A side scale with an arrow and, most often, two images of a filling column (white and red). Instead of a red column there may be a yellow light. This is an indicator of the fuel level in the tank. If the red column (yellow light) lights up, it means that there is very little fuel left in the tank - no more than 7 liters, urgent refueling is required.

Fuse failure

The electrical circuit for charging the battery is protected by a fuse. This element is located in the vehicle’s mounting block and is marked as F10. However, before checking for a malfunction in this place, it is better to first read the vehicle’s operating instructions, in which you will find out the exact designation of the required element.

If the fuse fails, the battery is not charged at all. However, there are times when the warning light comes on, but there is charging.

You can check the element using a tester (the part is removed from the mounting block). If the multimeter shows that the fuse is bad, all you have to do is replace it.

Additional panel

The additional front panel of the new-style BSK control has indicators:

An oil can is shown. If the light works, check the oil level;
An icon lights up, which, with some imagination, can be “identified” as working wipers. This indicates that there is not enough windshield washer fluid in the tank;
Conventional image of a thermometer over a container with liquid - high temperature of antifreeze;
A crossed out light, which the arrow points to, is a sign that the brake light or parking lights are not working;
If the light with the image of a wheel with brake pads lights up, it is quite possible that the pads are worn out and require replacement;
The sign of a man with a seat belt indicates that the seat belt should be fastened.

Failure of the relay regulator

A malfunction of the relay regulator is another reason why the battery charging light comes on.
This node is responsible for turning on/off the signal indicator. The principle of operation of the device is as follows: when the ignition is turned on, current flows through its closed contacts, which comes from the battery and feeds the indicator signals. When the internal combustion engine starts, the generator starts working, which supplies the relay with already rectified voltage and the contacts of the unit open. At this time the light should go out.

How to understand what exactly caused the light bulb to burn? How to fix the problem?

If the battery light is on while the engine is running, do not turn it off, open the hood and check the voltage at the battery terminals. If charging is supplied to the multimeter, the voltage should be 13.5-14.3V. If there is no charging, the voltage will be much lower - approximately 12V.

To solve the problem you will need:

Two screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
“Control” (12V light bulb);
Multimeter;
Pliers, a knife and sandpaper to clean the contacts.

Useful tips

To prevent your car from having problems charging the battery, use the following tips:

Don't ignore your car's dashboard signals. In this case, you will be able to solve the problem at the initial stage of its development.
Inspect the alternator belt regularly. The correct operation of all electrical equipment on board directly depends on it. If there are any defects, replace it as soon as possible.
Check the voltage from the generator to the battery. If you notice a discrepancy, diagnose the on-board network.
Periodically pay attention to the condition of the battery terminals. If you notice oxidation, eliminate this defect. They can be treated with WD-40.
Isolate the generator and battery from water to prevent short circuits. Leave engine washing to professionals.
When repairing the battery charging circuit, do not use cheap spare parts.

To summarize, we note that the battery is the most important element in the car’s electrical network. Therefore, you should carry out timely maintenance of the charging circuit and, if necessary, change the necessary parts. In this case, you will ensure a proper system of work. In the article, we told you about the main malfunctions that can cause the battery charging lamp to light up and what to do about it. We hope our recommendations will help you in solving the problem at hand.

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What else to check

Voltage regulator;
Generator rectifier unit;
Diodes;
Generator for broken windings;
Generator brush assembly;
Contacts on the terminals of the generator, mounting block.

A malfunction of any of these elements leads to the fact that the charging system is inoperative and the VAZ 2107 battery is not charged.

Let's continue... Diodes are checked with a test light or multimeter. If one of them is broken, the entire rectifier will have to be replaced.

All electrics of the VAZ 2110 have disappeared

21103 2000. Sometimes while driving the lights and the instrument panel would go out and go out for a short period of time, but the emergency lights would still work. About two months ago a bad ground was found at the negative terminal. It seems like it was decided by her. But it was not there.

At one point this week, almost everything went out - the lights (low, high, fog lights), computer, signal, heater, wipers, washer, turns and emergency lights, power windows. But all the other electrical items remained. The cigarette lighter and tape recorder are not a fact; they may have long been connected to a place other than the state. In total, the following worked: instrument lighting, warning lights for oil pressure, charging, etc., dimensions, stops, rear, fuel pump.

The engine started normally (if there was a gap in the starter on the battery) for two whole days, but on the third day, after being parked overnight in a strong wind, it refused to start. But twice in these two days everything returned, but not for long, the first time for half an hour, the second for an hour.

After parking for the night (mentioned above), the key refused to start, even the starter did not work. We started with a screwdriver, the engine started without problems at minus five, we warmed it up by eye, because the engine temperature indicator and the heater did not work.

Go. and, lo and behold, after three or four kilometers EVERYTHING turned on again. The car drove home like that horse - it ran on its own. I ran 200 km without problems, the only thing was that, so as not to provoke, I didn’t turn on the turns and didn’t turn off the lights (I didn’t touch the ignition key, because there were suspicions about it), and everything else was there - the neighbor, the heater on full, etc.

We arrived home, drove around the “place” for half a day, started the starter twenty times, blinked the distant lights with all the heat on - at least WHAT.

The next morning minus 18, BUT EVERYTHING IS NORMAL. We go to work and at 14.00 we try to warm up - EVERYTHING, NOTHING.

THE TOTAL RESULT is the lack of power supply to the CY along Sh3 due to the “burnt out” contacts of the nameless PINK and BROWN wiring connector on the way to Sh3.

Possible causes of the problem

When the battery light does not go off after starting the engine, you need to find the reason; possible problems are as follows:

The fuse has blown.
The relay-regulator is broken.
Problems with the diode bridge.
Poor contact (oxidation or breakage) of the ground wire.
The battery contacts or generator terminals have oxidized.
The alternator brushes or brush holders are worn out.
A break in the excitation winding of a car generator is possible.
The generator belt tension has weakened due to its stretching or the generator fastening has weakened and the belt has sagged.
Broken generator belt.
Bearing play in the generator.
If the ignition switch is damaged, several lights will light up at once.