Howl and hum from the transmission on Lada Niva: we figure out what the problem is and how to fix it

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The domestic small-class SUV Lada Niva, or Lada 4×4, or simply VAZ-2121 has been produced by the Tolyatti automobile plant for more than four decades. The model is in high demand not only among Russian car enthusiasts, but also among drivers in many other countries. The increased interest in the car is due to its uniqueness: an all-metal body instead of a classic frame structure, all-wheel drive with a center differential. Previously, few cars could boast of such a design, and those that were produced with such a transmission scheme were, as a rule, much heavier, larger and several times more expensive.

Throughout its history, the model was equipped with a manual transmission. Initially it was a manual transmission-4, since 1995 the SUV engine has been combined with a five-speed gearbox labeled VAZ-21214, which is actually a manual transmission unit-21213 adapted for 1.7 and 1.8 liter injection engines. In 2013, the mechanics underwent major changes and received a new name 21214M . However, along with the appearance of the new gearbox, constant conversations arose among car owners about where the howling and hum from the transmission on the Lada Niva comes from. Let's look into this issue further.

Howl and hum from the transmission on Lada Niva: we figure out what the problem is and how to fix it

The domestic small-class SUV Lada Niva, or Lada 4×4, or simply VAZ-2121 has been produced by the Tolyatti automobile plant for more than four decades. The model is in high demand not only among Russian car enthusiasts, but also among drivers in many other countries. The increased interest in the car is due to its uniqueness: an all-metal body instead of a classic frame structure, all-wheel drive with a center differential. Previously, few cars could boast of such a design, and those that were produced with such a transmission scheme were, as a rule, much heavier, larger and several times more expensive.

Throughout its history, the model was equipped with a manual transmission. Initially it was a manual transmission-4, since 1995 the SUV engine has been combined with a five-speed gearbox

labeled VAZ-21214, which is actually a manual transmission unit-21213 adapted for 1.7 and 1.8 liter injection engines. In 2013, the mechanics underwent major changes and received a new name 21214M

. However, along with the appearance of the new gearbox, constant conversations arose among car owners about where the howling and hum from the transmission on the Lada Niva comes from. Let's look into this issue further.

Transfer case noise

Post by Kolebon » Feb 22, 2012, 10:15 pm

Post by Vovchik » February 22, 2012, 11:05 pm

Post by tatarin545 » Feb 22, 2012, 11:11 pm

He disappeared somewhere

Tatar is not a nationality, Tatar is a profession.

I am slowly looking for an engine block or the 2130 engine itself. 42-tooth RK gear, inexpensive! Niva Fora for experiments, can be written off!

Post by Kolebon » Feb 22, 2012, 11:41 pm

Post by tatarin545 » Feb 22, 2012, 11:54 pm

Tatar is not a nationality, Tatar is a profession.

I am slowly looking for an engine block or the 2130 engine itself. 42-tooth RK gear, inexpensive! Niva Fora for experiments, can be written off!

Post by Kolebon » Feb 22, 2012, 11:58 pm

Post by tatarin545 » Feb 23, 2012, 00:12

Tatar is not a nationality, Tatar is a profession.

I am slowly looking for an engine block or the 2130 engine itself. 42-tooth RK gear, inexpensive! Niva Fora for experiments, can be written off!

Post by Kolebon » 23 Feb 2012, 00:14

Post by YVAN » Sep 15, 2013, 12:23 pm

Post by rendevor » Sep 15, 2013, 1:59 pm

Post by Alexey 30 » Oct 10, 2013, 10:09 am

Post by Anton » Oct 10, 2013, 11:09

Turn off the center differential lock (small lever away from you).

Posted by marselle » Oct 30, 2013 3:38 pm

Posted by marselle » Nov 13, 2013, 11:00 pm

Post by ivm53 » April 25, 2015, 4:08 pm

Post by Allbatross88 » 12 Aug 2015, 15:00

Post by Captain » 12 Aug 2015, 15:33

Tips for owners

To make driving your car comfortable, read some important points:

1. The usual, standard arrangement of the front and rear handles is forward and backward, respectively. Movement in this mode can and should be carried out in areas characterized by even and smooth surfaces.
2. Locking the differential by switching the front handle to the rear position is best on roads characterized by increased slipperiness. This measure will give Niva stability. It is worth understanding that after overcoming the problem area, the handle will need to be returned to its original position.
3. As noted earlier, downshift should be activated before a potential obstacle, but not while the car is already stuck.
4. It is worth understanding that activating the lock when the vehicle is stationary is sometimes impossible, even if the clutch is depressed. This may be caused by the clutch teeth hitting the gear teeth. In this case, you can try to activate the lock by starting to drive slowly and make a slight turn. If problems arise with disabling the lock, it is recommended to perform the same procedure with the clutch depressed and the steering wheel slightly rocked.

Also interesting: Tuning a Niva 4x4 with your own hands: updating the interior of the Lada VAZ-2121

Do-it-yourself gear shift assembly adjustment

To correctly adjust the gear selection mechanism you will need a 13 key

Sequencing:

1. We start the engine, engage 1st gear. As soon as the car starts to move, we stop and turn off the engine. In this case, we leave the first gearbox speed in the ON position. We put the car on the handbrake and anti-rollbacks.
2. We loosen the coupling bolt of the clamp securing the connecting rod of the gearbox under the body. For ease of work, you can use a lift, overpass, pit or jacks.
3. We move the plastic traction lock located in the passenger compartment all the way to the extreme left position.
4. Then we fix the loosened bolt of the mounting clamp back.

You can also try one more method to eliminate rattling and play in the gearbox handle: using a “13” wrench, you need to tighten the lever fastening nut until the axial play is eliminated.

The lever nut must be tightened to a torque of 24.5 Nm (2.5 kgfm).

If, after the adjustment has been made, the same difficulties with gear shifting and vibration remain, this means that this unit is worn beyond the permissible norm and needs to be replaced.

Repairing faults and adjusting the VAZ-2123 steering gear

Bleeding and adjusting the Chevrolet Niva clutch: step-by-step instructions

How to repair a Chevrolet Niva transfer case with your own hands: detailed disassembly instructions

Disassembly

1 — front axle drive housing; 2 — crankcase cover; 3 — speedometer drive housing fig. 3-39fig. 3-38

rice. 3-38fig. 3-39

1- intermediate shaft; 2 - drive shaft; 3 — differential; 4 - front cover

1 - flange; 2 — oil seal; 3 — thrust ring of the bearing, 4 — front bearing; 5 - drive shaft; 6—high gear; 7 — hub; 8 - coupling; 9 — low gear; 10 — bushing: 11 — rear bearing; 12 — bearing installation ring; 13 — intermediate shaft bearing; 14 - intermediate shaft

• remove the lock ring 1 (Fig. 3-45) and spring washer 2 of the front bearing;
• remove the rear and front bearings from the differential housing (Fig. 3-46), using a universal puller and stop 67.7853.9559;
• by turning the bolts of the differential housing, separate the housing;
• remove the differential driven gear;
• remove retaining rings 8 (Fig. 3-45) and spring washer 14, then press out the pinion axis and remove the satellites and drive axle drive gears with support washers.

1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing mounting ring; 4 — differential housing bearings; 5 — driven gear; 6 - front differential housing; 7 — front axle drive gear; 8 — retaining ring of the satellite axis; 9 — satellite; 10 — rear differential housing; 11, 15 — support washer; 12 — rear axle drive gear; 13 — satellite axis; 14 - spring washer

1 — puller A.40005/1/6; 2 — stop 67.7853.9559; 3 - bearing

• the axial clearance of each axle drive gear should be 0-0.10 mm, and the moment of resistance to rotation of the gears should not exceed 14.7 N m (1.5 kgf m). If the gap is increased, replace the support washers with others of greater thickness; if the specified gap cannot be obtained when installing support washers of the greatest thickness, replace the gears with new ones due to their excessive wear;
• The drive and intermediate shafts are installed in the transfer case housing simultaneously (see Fig. 3-47);
• Press the bearings onto the differential housing using mandrel 67.7853.9558 (see Fig. 3-48);
• Before installation in covers and crankcases, lubricate the working surfaces of the oil seals with LITOL-24 grease;
• Tighten threaded connections to the torques specified in Appendix 2;
• when compressing the transfer case shaft nuts, use mandrel 67.7820.9520 (see Fig. 3-49).

1 - intermediate shaft; 2 - drive shaft

1 — mandrel 67.7853.9558

1 — mandrel 67.7820.9520; 2 - flange retainer

Vibration

Vibration in the body is the main “disease” of the Niva; it often occurs due to improper alignment of the transfer case. Most often, vibration occurs on VAZ 21213/21214 cars, since the LCD is mounted only on two supports on the sides of the body; on the Chevrolet Niva, the transfer case is already installed on three supports. But before you start adjusting the position of the transfer case, you should check the condition of other parts of the chassis - vibration can also occur for other reasons:

• driveshafts are poorly secured;
• unbalanced wheels;
• there is play in the cardan crosspieces (vibration is especially affected by play in the rear driveshaft crosspieces);
• The vibration comes from the engine itself.

Vibration when starting off on a Niva can also occur for the following reasons:

• the mounting supports of the transfer case have become loose;
• The rubber on the RK supports themselves broke.

Centering method

To carry out this work you will need a lift, although with some skill you can get by with simple supports. First you need to prepare the car. If there is a lift, it is raised up. If supports are used, the corners of the machine are jacked up one by one and it is placed on them. Please note that all supports must be stable, otherwise the work will be unsafe. You should also prepare the tool in advance. If there are no plans to simultaneously replace other parts, then it is quite possible to get by with a ratchet and a “13” head. During operation, an assistant must be in the cabin.

Adjustments are made in the following order:

If the vibration persists, the procedure should be repeated.

Methodology for determining the causes of vibration of the transfer case and body floor in the area of ​​the front seats

First, note at what speed the transfer case vibration occurs, then begin to determine the causes of the vibration.

Test 1

Place the transfer case and gearbox levers in neutral and start the engine.

Set the engine speed equal to the vehicle speed at which the vibration occurred.

If vibration persists when the vehicle is stationary, you should check the fastening and condition of the engine mounts, as they are the cause of the vibration.

Test 2

If vibration is not detected during test No. 1, then set the transfer case levers to the neutral position, start the engine, engage direct gear in the gearbox and set the engine speed corresponding to the vehicle speed at which the transfer case vibration occurred.

If vibration is observed with a stationary car at this crankshaft rotation speed, then its cause is a malfunction of the intermediate driveshaft (imbalance, bending of the fastening bolts or elastic coupling flange, jamming in the universal joint).

Test 3

If no vibration is detected in tests 1 and 2, proceed to test 3.

Accelerate the vehicle to a speed where vibration occurs and place the transfer case and gearbox levers in neutral.

If the vibration persists, it is caused by a malfunction of the front or rear driveshafts, imbalance, jamming of the universal joints or imbalance of the center differential.

Before centering the transfer case, we check the condition of the power unit supports and the correct installation (the centering washers of the engine mounts must fit into the corresponding holes in the side brackets).

We install the transfer case on the car without fully tightening the nuts securing the brackets for its suspension.

By moving the transfer case in the longitudinal, transverse and vertical directions (tightening or loosening the nuts of its fastening), we achieve a minimum and uniform gap between the flanges of the intermediate shaft and the drive shaft of the transfer case (the flanges must be at the same level and parallel to each other).

We fill the gap between the body floor and the supports with adjusting shims and align the centering belts of the flanges, slightly moving the transfer case forward (by the amount of the gap between the flanges).

Finally tighten the nuts securing the transfer case supports.

When replacing a transfer case or changing a four-speed gearbox to a five-speed one and vice versa, as well as when the rear engine mount settles, causing vibration of the transfer case, it is necessary to select and install a new thickness of gaskets 3 (Fig. 1).

Repair of intermediate shaft Niva VAZ 21213, 21214, 2131 lada 4×4

We mark the location of the coupling relative to the flange,...

Pulling off the rubber boot...

Disassembling and assessing the condition of the hinge parts are similar to the corresponding operations described in the chapter Front wheel drive.

We assemble the intermediate shaft in the reverse order. We put 20 cm3 of CV joint grease into the rebuilt or new hinge. Before connecting the hinge to the flange of the elastic coupling, install a small clamp of the rubber protective cover.

We place the used coupling according to the marks relative to the flange. We place the previous balancing washers according to the marks relative to the coupling. When installing a new coupling, the shaft assembly may need to be balanced.

Removing the howl and hum

We will assume that we have dealt with the vibration, but an equally significant problem remains - how to remove the howling of the transfer case on the Niva. Vibrations of the mechanism are not always the only reason for the appearance of extraneous irritating sounds. And the characteristic noise of the transfer case, alas, is one of the “trademark” shortcomings of one of the best domestic SUVs.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the levers. It is better to immediately replace them with silent ones - with anti-resonance bushings inside

They won’t eliminate all the noise, but they will definitely extinguish some of it.

Silent transfer case levers NIVA 2121 black Art. SV-21-18040401400.00-+ Buy

1. The result will be even better if you install a small-module transfer case - with front and rear covers equipped with double-row bearings. In 2010, AVTOVAZ introduced new double-row bearings for output shafts in order to get rid of backlash and runout, as well as extend the life of the seals and, in general, increase the reliability of the mechanism. Here logic is man’s friend: less shaking and hesitation means higher service life and reliability.

Transfer case (2-row bearing) 21213 Art. 21213-1800020-0115000.00-+ Buy

Eliminating prerequisites

The misalignment of the transfer case occurs due to an undeveloped design. Therefore, many craftsmen strive to modify the fastening so as not to bother with alignment once a year. A special frame is used for this. In recent years, it can be purchased in stores, but you can also make it yourself. The advantages of this modification are the following:

To assemble the subframe you will need a square pipe. Some people use a corner, but in this case the structure will be less durable. The support plates are made of sheet steel. Before assembly, you should cut off the old transfer case mounting bolts. Now it will be installed on the subframe. The pipe is cut to size and the frame is welded. After that, holes are drilled in the crossbars for fastening the transfer case. It is important not to make a mistake with the sizes. The next step will be assembling the mount to the body. Sheet steel support plates are welded to the subframe. Holes are drilled in it. After fitting, you need to drill holes in the floor of the car.

M12 bolts should be used for fastening

, as well as thick washers.
After installing the subframe, do not forget to treat it with an anti-corrosion compound. This will increase the service life of the part. This is how, through simple manipulations, you can get rid of one of Niva’s sores. Conclusion
. Even great cars have flaws. The domestic SUV Niva is no exception. During active use, vibrations emanating from the transmission may occur. That’s when the question arises of how to center the transfer case on the Niva. In fact, this work is not difficult, but there are some nuances that are better to know before starting work. Some people, knowing this feature of this car, install a subframe, this can significantly reduce the noise of the transmission.

hum and howl when moving in tension | Topic author: Liane

Dear friends! My father bought a Chevrolet Niva in January 2022, before that he only drove right-handed cars. Before buying, we took it for a test drive, and there seemed to be no noise, but when we brought ours, until we arrived from the car dealership, we didn’t seem to notice such obvious noises, especially since we were driving no more than 40 km/h. Then, over time, we began to drive faster and noticed a howl and hum emanating from either the roofing felt box or the transfer case. We changed all the oils completely and everywhere, in general, everything that could be lubricated))! And it didn't help! The howling remained the same starting from 50 km/h and then increasing, and the most important thing is that the intensity of the sound increases when driving under tension, as soon as you increase the gas, everything goes away! Yes, and in the first 2 gears, the hum is present, but very weak. The car's mileage today is only 4 thousand/km.

Please tell me what this is and how to deal with it! Thank you in advance!

Sergey (Ragnar) Sergey, this is normal. As all the seals are replaced and the mechanisms are ground in, the noise will go away

Sergey (Ragnar) Thanks Sergey!

Andrey (Jasmeen) I had such a problem, at first it hummed slowly, then stronger and stronger, the hum came from the front axle gearbox, I changed the oil, it didn’t help, in the end it jammed, I had to change the gearbox, the hum disappeared!

Sergey (Ragnar) Andrey, I also had something buzzing in third.

I drove 24 thousand, but now it seems not.

Vasily (Marah) I had a hum starting from 60 km/h. They climbed a hundred and listened, they said that the handout was good. I spent a whole week thinking about what to do, replace it with a new one or remove it and give this one for repair. The car is new, produced in 2022. A friend works in a service center and advised me to change the oil in the transfer case to the Russian mineral w85-90, and add an anti-noise additive, like after 300 km all the noise will go away... I changed it, at the same time changed the axles, drove 300 km, nothing was missing, and now I’m driving like this then one day and suddenly it suddenly dawned on me that the hum was coming from the ROOF RACK)))) I removed the trunk and everything went away.

Alexey (Chalissa) guys, such a problem, I bought a Niva, it means there is a howling, and as the speed increases, the howling increases, as soon as I press the clutch the howling disappears, it comes from approximately under the gearbox lever, I looked around a bunch of frooms but found nothing, maybe you what do you suggest?

Dmitry (Sancho) Or maybe this is a feature of our Lada cars? It is very difficult to judge what your howl is. Moreover, the transfer case howls due to its design feature. Comparing the noise level with foreign cars is the same as driving comfort between an UAZ and a gelding. Ride other tires and compare the noises.

Igor (Annig) Alexey, what was not determined (otherwise it’s the same garbage)

Irinka (Artemios) Niva 2022 Mileage 30,000. Transmission filled with Liquid Moly - Everything is just super. Niva 2022 Mileage 8,000 Filled in trans. Liquid Moly. Vibration, noise and a terrible rumble began. 1 Changed the oil (drained CLEAN oil) in the gearbox and RC with Champion mineral water - NO changes. 2 I started changing the oil in the rear gearbox and drained the BLACK oil. Filled with clean and fresh oil. No changes. The vibration has increased! Guys, tell me what to do and what to do

Ivan (Vitthala) Hello guys, about the hum. I've already driven 270,000 on the shnivy, the hum has remained the same. What to do next?

Oleg (Sonoma) Sell and buy new

Marina (Landen) Steam locomotives hum; and the wind howls

Vasily (Marah) humming noise, from 10 km/h. replaced under warranty. humming and under tension and when you accelerate and go on gas at 4th 50 km/h and above. when releasing the gas there is no hum... like on a trolleybus in Soviet times.

Evgeny (Budd) Vasily, what was replaced under warranty? Gearbox, transfer case? I have the same trolleybus...

Vasily (Marah) The transfer case was replaced. The noise remained as it was. The howl of the Razdatka was added. So that…

Evgeny (Budd) I see, I’ll try to change the gearbox, but the diagnostics have no result at all. It only howls under load directly on the road..

Sergey (Ragnar) nothing will go anywhere) there will be a howl and it won’t go anywhere.!!!

Evgeny (Budd) Sergey, it howls and howls) it wouldn’t fall apart on the move) if I knew for sure where it was normal and where it was faulty... there are fields that howl! 10-15 percent)

Sergey (Ragnar) Evgeniy, when accelerating from 60 to 75, it starts whining and subsides, it’s like this in the transfer case almost from new, about 3000 km away, it started now at 52,000 it’s all the same.. I don’t worry about driving

Tags: How to determine whether a bridge or transfer case is humming in a field

Vibrations of transfer case, blower shaft, knocking of cardans

Reg.: 03/02/2009 Posts: 4 Age: 43 Car: VAZ 21214, 2002.

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4024 / 23192 From: Moscow Age: 67 Car: 21214M, 2013

Reg.: 03/02/2009 Posts: 4 Age: 43 Car: VAZ 21214, 2002.

Yes, I'm wondering why the car hasn't warmed up yet

, she drives normally for about 20 minutes. The more intense the ride, about 30-40 minutes. It’s already getting scary from the vibrations on the body.

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4024 / 23192 From: Moscow Age: 67 Car: 21214M, 2013

Reg.: 03/02/2009 Posts: 4 Age: 43 Car: VAZ 21214, 2002.

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4024 / 23192 From: Moscow Age: 67 Car: 21214M, 2013

Either they said something stupid or you misunderstood them.

Astron

Read the title of the topic. This section is about diagnostics, not about changing the oil.

Reg.: 04/26/2009 Messages: 3 From: Moscow Age: 42 Car: Niva 21213

Good day everyone, I have a 1999 Niva with terrible vibration, I read it on the forum but I can’t find where they described checking the vibration, checked 1 Acceleration on a netralka, the vibration does not disappear (the speed drops and everything disappears) it starts to shake from 90-100 km 2 1-2 gear not noticeable. 3-2,800 t rpm speed 55-60 vibration 4-5 3,500 t rpm speed 90-100.

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4024 / 23192 From: Moscow Age: 67 Car: 21214M, 2013

Reg.: 03/01/2006 Messages: 151 From: Moscow Age: 40 Car: VAZ 21213 1998

If it’s a button accordion, then call me, but, as they say, repetition is the mother of learning.

So, one of the reasons for vibration of the transfer case, in addition to those listed in the FAQ, is the curvature of the helicopter shaft and/or the curvature of the “donut”. Visually, this is expressed in the “walking” of the transfer case levers “back and forth” from the interior; from the bottom, it looks like the transfer case is trying to “escape” from the gearbox, and then solemnly returning to its place. The effect is most pronounced when the cardan shafts are removed.

After carrying out the above evolutions, having installed the washout at the point of maximum approximation to the indicator, we determine the paw/paws under which it is necessary to place a spacer. Place the spacer and tighten it (don’t forget about the same torque). We install the indicator, scroll through the vent and look at the change in readings. We repeat the procedure until the vibration amplitude falls within 0.1-0.2mm. Next, you can play with the tightening torque, only now you need to determine the point of maximum distance of the shank from the indicator, and increase the tightening torque of the bolts of the corresponding “legs”. In principle, an amplitude of 0.1 mm is already good.

Source

Common Lada 4×4 transmission problems

You can often hear from drivers that the car’s transmission is constantly humming and crunching. Many people have to sort out the gearbox after 20 thousand km, and then carry out minor repairs every 10 thousand km. High-quality foreign additives and oils do not radically change the situation. Howling and humming are a characteristic feature not only of the Lada Niva, but also of other AvtoVAZ vehicles, for example Lada Granta and Lada Kalina. AvtoVAZ is aware of this problem. Unpleasant sounds and crunches in the operation of the transmission are explained by poor modification of the teeth of the gears and the main pair. In 2014, the unit was seriously modified, but the problem was never completely eliminated.

Representatives of the plant comment on the fatal problems of the gearbox:

The factory has been fighting the rumble and howl of the transfer case virtually from the very moment the car appeared. In 1999, the Niva was equipped with an improved transfer case with fine-module gears. The level of external noise was indeed reduced, but the question of reliability and endurance of the modernized unit arose. Today, the Lada Niva 21214-M is equipped with a sealed transfer case with an updated ventilation system and an open breather located in the engine compartment. The design eliminates the possibility of excess pressure forming in the crankcase. Serious changes have also occurred with the cardan shafts: now they are on CV joints with boots. The plant's new balancing stands now make it possible to equip cardans with greater geometric accuracy.

Diagram and description of the design

The steering gearbox is a separate unit in the steering gear system, the main element of which is the worm shaft. It increases the force applied by the driver to the steered wheels when the steering wheel is rotated.

Typical diagram of a Niva Chevrolet steering gear:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPEPMc0J0ug

This part has the original serial number: 2123-3400010-20.

The mechanism is put on the market assembled with a bipod in a branded white and blue cardboard package with a quality certificate and an annual guarantee.

The Chevrolet Niva uses a mechanism in which a globoid-type worm (variable shaft diameter) is installed. This design ensures reliable vehicle control at any speed and on different road surfaces.

In the steering system gearbox, the worm shaft rests on 2 rolling bearings, the same number of bearings support the rotation of the bipod shaft. Ball bearings serve to reduce friction of the main parts, also making it easier to turn the steering wheel in different directions.

When the steering wheel rotates, torque is transmitted from the steering column shafts to a worm unit, which is engaged with a roller located on the bipod shaft.

Reference! The gear ratio is 16.4.

The bipod connects the steering linkage system through articulated pins. The transmission of movement from the middle rod to the right side rod occurs through a pendulum lever.

The worm steering mechanism used on off-road vehicles is quite shock-resistant. It easily absorbs all vibrations and irregularities from the road surface

Useful! The minor disadvantages of this mechanism include the complexity of manufacturing. Also, due to the large number of moving and rubbing elements, the worm gear must be tightened at certain intervals.

During vehicle operation, moving elements wear out in the worm gear over time and the technological gap increases. As a result, extraneous sounds appear. The first signs of an adjustment violation are a beating and a significant increase in the free play of the steering wheel, and the clarity of vehicle control is lost.

All this directly proportionally affects the safety of driving this car. If you do not adjust and tighten this play of the main pair in time, then due to the resulting runout, scuffs begin to form on the metal of the worm and bipod and the drive completely fails.

Important! Steering is one of the main vehicle systems responsible for safety. Therefore, operating a car with a faulty steering system is prohibited by the Road Traffic Rules.

Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination

– Cause of malfunction

Elimination method

Floor vibration in the area of ​​the front seats when starting the car and accelerating:

– Loose transfer case and/or gearbox mountings

Tighten the mountings of the units, check the alignment of the transfer case relative to the gearbox

– Damaged transfer case supports, gearbox support

Replace the supports, center the transfer case relative to the gearbox

– Disturbed alignment of the transfer case relative to the gearbox

Center the transfer case relative to the transmission

– The bolts and/or flanges of the flexible coupling are deformed

Replace deformed parts (if necessary, the intermediate shaft assembly)

– The bolts securing the elastic coupling to its flange on the secondary shaft of the gearbox and/or the nuts of the intermediate shaft flange to the flange of the drive shaft of the transfer case have become loose

Tighten the fastenings, check the alignment of the transfer case relative to the gearbox

Floor vibration in the area of ​​the front seats when the car is moving at a speed of 80–100 km/h in direct transmission:

– Increased imbalance of the intermediate shaft: the relative position of the parts during assembly is disturbed, delamination of the elastic coupling, incorrect assembly or wear of the constant velocity joint, loss of balancing washers under the bolts of the elastic coupling

Replace the intermediate shaft assembly

– The bolts and/or flanges of the flexible coupling are deformed

Replace deformed parts (if necessary, the intermediate shaft assembly)

– The bolts securing the elastic coupling to its flange on the secondary shaft of the gearbox and/or the nuts of the intermediate shaft flange to the flange of the drive shaft of the transfer case have become loose

Tighten the fastenings, check the alignment of the transfer case relative to the gearbox

– Sticking of the constant velocity joint: there is no lubrication in the joint, its parts are deformed, incorrect assembly

Disassemble the hinge, clean the parts, replace the lubricant. If parts are severely worn or deformed, replace the intermediate shaft assembly

– Sticking of the universal joints of the front or rear shafts

Lubricate the hinges. If lubrication does not eliminate the jamming, replace the joint or shaft assembly

– Increased imbalance of cardan shafts

Replace shaft assemblies

– Increased imbalance of the center differential due to a manufacturing defect or a violation of the relative position of parts during assembly

Noise when cornering or wheel slipping:

– The teeth of the satellites or axle drive gears are worn or chipped

Replace worn or broken parts

– Tight rotation of the satellites on the axis

Clean burrs on the axle and in the holes of the satellites with a needle file, replace worn and deformed parts

– Wear of the spherical (inner) surface of the differential housing

Replace differential housing or differential assembly

– Jamming of axle drive gears in the differential housing

Replace worn and deformed parts. By selecting support washers, set the axial clearance of the gears to 0–0.10 mm, controlling the moment of resistance to rotation

– Large axial clearance of axle drive gears in the differential housing

By selecting support washers, set the axial clearance of the gears to 0–0.10 mm, controlling the moment of resistance to rotation

Gears are difficult to engage or differential lock:

– The sliding clutch moves tightly on the splines of the hub or differential housing

Eliminate vibration with additional mountings

Installing the third support of the transfer case on VAZ 21213/21214 cars allows you to reduce the level of vibration of the transfer case; with this support it is easier to center the transfer case. You can buy the part at auto stores or make it yourself. The finished product comes with three long studs (for model 2121); to install the third support on this machine, you will need to unscrew the short studs from the transfer case housing and install new studs from the kit. We carry out repairs as follows:

• dismantle the front passenger seat in the cabin;
• remove the floor tunnel lining;
• in the cabin we move the carpet aside, covering the body amplifier (in front of the handbrake lever);
• remove the transfer case (alternatively, you can simply hang it up, but removing the third support makes it easier to install);
• We attach the bracket of the new support to the LCD housing;
• we install the transfer case in place, center it in the optimal position, and fasten the side supports;
• we combine the third support with the body, drill two holes in the bottom;
• Using washers, nuts, bolts and nuts (from the kit) we attach the support to the underbody.

Vibration is eliminated more effectively by installing a subframe under the transfer case. You can make such a device yourself or buy a finished product at a car store.

In order to install the subframe, the transfer case must be removed. It is more convenient to carry out such work in a pit; we carry out repairs as follows:

• leave the car in neutral gear;
• disconnect the propeller shaft from the transfer case, it is advisable to mark the driveshaft flange and the drive shaft so that during installation, align the driveshaft according to the marks - this way, the occurrence of unnecessary vibrations is eliminated;
• dismantle the muffler mounting bracket;
• remove the gearbox traverse;
• jack up the transfer case, remove the side fastenings of the transfer case;
• We treat the places where the subframe fits to the body with Movil;
• place the subframe on the gearbox studs;
• we mark the attachment points of the subframe on the side members, drill holes, attach bolts to the body;
• we tighten all fastenings, except for the transfer case supports themselves;
• we perform alignment of the steering wheel;
• Finally tighten the transfer case supports.

It should be noted that installing an additional support or subframe on the steering wheel does not always lead to the desired effect; in some cases, vibration only increases.

Dismantling

1. To remove the manual transmission, you will need a “13” wrench (open-end or ratchet), a flat-head and a shaped screwdriver. For convenience, removal is carried out in the inspection pit.
2. Inside, use a screwdriver to remove the decorative trim of the levers. Under the cover there will be a boot of two shift levers, which is also removable.
3. The cardan shafts are being dismantled. This is done using the key at “13”. The front and rear driveshafts are disconnected in the same way. Before removing the shafts, you need to mark the seat with the cardan fork so that vibration does not occur after installation.
4. The speedometer cable is dismantled by unscrewing one nut and moved to the side.
5. Next, unscrew all the bolts securing the transfer gearbox through the supports to the body and remove the gearbox.

Vibrations in the field, prologue

Introduction to history. In the team of people with whom I work, there are quite a lot of people with different characters, education and astrology)) What I mean is that “Virgo” is “VIRGO”. And either you understand this, or kill him right away. For example: when this person had problems with the gearbox and he decided to bring it “to mind” and go through it, he did it FIVE TIMES.

Sometimes during disassembly, changing one bearing that he didn’t like, for one reason known to him))) And this person suggested that I look for vibrations, because the box had been rebuilt 5 times, the transfer case 10, and even the “hammer and sickle” CV joint driveshafts were taken for additional balancing.

I won’t tell you what it looked like sometimes. But Gaidai could have made another one of his brilliant comedies. We didn’t get too clever, but simply used the experience of the farmers to confirm or refute this knowledge.

Vibration and how to deal with it.

The main reason for the occurrence of unnecessary sounds is multi-frequency vibrations of the components of the transmission. In general, the vibration of the transfer case on a Niva is one of the most common cornerstones that other car owners are forced to fight (or put up with) constantly.

Also interesting: Chevrolet Niva air conditioner repair at the best price!

• Check the cushions (supports) on which the power unit, gearbox and other parts are attached to the body, including the muffler. Any worn-out pad or rubber band can easily cause excessive shaking of the iron and accompanying rumble. It is better to replace worn silent blocks and pillows immediately.
• Be sure to pay attention to the intermediate shaft (inlet shaft). If you see signs of “fatigue” - change the elements that have become unusable, or the entire part!

• Examine the condition of the driveshafts. The “old” version of the cardan allows you to service (repair) the part, for example, by replacing broken crosspieces.
• In the case of CV joint driveshafts, you will have to replace a completely non-functional element.
• As for driveshafts on constant velocity joints (CV joints), this design is more expensive, but it has an undeniable advantage - it is easy to dismantle and install back, and this operation does not disturb the balancing of the driveshafts.
• It would be a good idea to pay attention to the placement of the transfer case. If an additional (third) RC mount is installed, unscrew it from the box; there is no need to unscrew it from the body. Set the transfer case to neutral, start the car and in fourth gear, rev it up to about 3-4 thousand revolutions. It must stabilize and, as they say, find its place. Turn off the car and secure the mechanism.

Perhaps this is the most complete set of measures that experienced auto mechanics advise when the transfer case on a Niva hums and vibrates!

Transfer case centering

Correct installation of the transfer case can be done in several ways. Most often in auto repair shops, repairmen use this method:

• hang the car on a lift;
• loosen the transfer case;
• start the engine;
• engage the gear and accelerate the car according to the speedometer to the speed at which vibration occurs (often it occurs at speeds from 40 to 80 km/h);
• without using the brakes, reduce the engine speed, then turn off the ignition.

The transfer case itself is centered in place, all that remains is to tighten the fastenings of the supports.

You can also adjust the position of the RC using a wire; we do it this way:

• loosen all four fastenings of the transfer case supports;
• fasten one end of the wire to the rubber coupling of the propeller shaft;
• we attach another piece of wire to the CV joint, bring the other ends of the wire to each other;
• rotate the shaft; if the transfer case is not centered, the ends of the wire will diverge during rotation;
• the task comes down to installing the transfer case using the selection method so that the ends of the wire practically do not diverge from each other in any position when turning the shaft.

Traffic lights with motion sensors and a “friendly crossing” may appear in Russia

As Izvestia reported, the corresponding changes to domestic GOSTs will be presented before the end of this year. Their need was justified by the Russian Road Research Institute (RosdorNII), which analyzed foreign and domestic experience in improving pedestrian safety, identified the most effective measures to reduce mortality, as well as a list of requirements that must be reflected in domestic regulatory documents.

To prevent cars from crushing pedestrians, care must be taken to reduce the speed of traffic (calm down) the traffic flow. For this purpose, noise strips, artificial bumps before crossings, zigzag movement of cars, narrowing of lanes or a reduction in their number can be used.

It is unlikely that everything that was seen from the British will be transferred to Russian roads. In Russia, for example, it is proposed to combine a pedestrian crossing with a speed bump. Don’t we still do this? They do, but not like that. It is supposed to not just put two speed bumps in front of the zebra crossing, but to raise the crossing itself above the ground. The use of such crossings reduces the speed of traffic flow by 4–20 km/h, and the number of accidents with casualties drops by an average of 15%.

RosdorNII also proposes to improve the lighting of pedestrian crossings. It is proposed to move the lamps next to the zebra crossing by two to four meters towards the movement. This should increase speed and improve pedestrian recognition by drivers. It is also proposed to additionally equip crossings with signal lights and beacons.

Features of the Lada Niva transmission

Without exaggeration, we can say that all-wheel drive brought world fame to the domestic car, but at the same time it became a real headache for car owners. Drivers literally unanimously claim that the previous four-speed gearbox was an order of magnitude more reliable than the five-speed unit. Apparently, the mechanics took the predecessor as the basis for the new modification and added a fifth gear unit, which basically causes serious trouble for the owners. In most cases, the block does not last even 30,000 kilometers, requiring premature repairs. In modification 21214M this is much easier, but there are still cases when the fifth gear fails.

The gearbox and transfer case are two units connected to each other by a short intermediate shaft with a rubber vibration damper. Without this design, there would probably be much less vibration, but you just have to put up with the design features of the SUV's transmission. Another possible source of vibration is the rear driveshaft, which thus makes it known that an imbalance has occurred. But we note that on a fully functional car, vibrations are either not felt at all or are felt only slightly. If a problem appears, then it’s time to undergo diagnostics and find the cause of the malfunction.

Video: Aligning the Niva transfer case without a lift

Repair and alignment of the transfer unit must be carried out subject to the presence of experience and knowledge in the field of design and repair of the specific transmission of all-wheel drive vehicles. The range-multiplier needs to be centered after each reinstallation. The correct position of the box is judged by the presence of vibration.

Do-it-yourself UAZ Patriot repair

Specifics. Flanges and helicopters.

Modified gearbox and transfer case flange. The results surprised even us, although it seems that nothing in this car should surprise us anymore. The photo shows the gearbox flange, also known as the transfer case flange. And it seems to be a rotating part with an even number of splines and an even number of holes. But you can’t “take” an AvtoTAZ so easily. This part has a landing diameter (along the splines) and a mating plane. We made a device from the transfer case output shaft. We very carefully centered them for axial runout, and clamping the flanges, as we do on transfer cases and gearboxes, began to check them for runout of the end plane. The results are depressing. 20% of products DO NOT have runout. There were flanges where the runout reached 0.5 mm. To avoid doubts about spare parts, we removed the flanges from the conveyor machines, the result was the same. On checkpoint “helicopters” the picture is exactly the same.

Who is to blame and what to do?

I think that the first question is rhetorical))) But let’s try to answer at least “why this is so.” I am a mechanical engineer by education and work, production technology is at an average level, so I turned to a military plant technologist for advice. How it should be: the workpiece is made with a press, rough processing is carried out with allowances, a thermal treatment is made, the part is processed completely according to the “main and landing” dimensions. How it was done: the last stage was removed. After heat treatment, the part warps and does not come out clean. Or it is placed on a cylindrical mandrel during finishing processing, which cannot be done. Since with this design, everything is centered on the splines.

The answer to the second question. We buy a box at the factory containing 100 “semi-finished” flanges wrapped in oil paper, drag them to the lathe, set up the “finishing fixture” and finish the entire batch.

What is Puffin Crossing?

Puffin Crossing translated into Russian means “friendly crossing”. This system, used in the UK, involves installing smart traffic lights with sensors that react to pedestrians. Such traffic lights will not turn on red while a person is walking along the zebra crossing, but they will not turn on green if there is no one at the crossing.

Pedestrians can independently regulate the phases of operation of smart traffic lights. True, not using the buttons that exist now, but through special displays. Having requested green, the pedestrian will see on the same board that it has lit up - he will not have to watch the traffic light.

What to do with excess noise on the VAZ-2121?

Cardan shafts on CV joints have further reduced the level of vibration and noise, but they have actually become maintenance-free. If a serious breakdown occurs, the complete unit will need to be replaced. It's easy to guess that this is not a cheap unit. Operating the car in difficult conditions only increases the likelihood of damage to the boot, and this is fraught with serious financial costs. So, we get that the noise of the transfer case is a design feature of the car, which you either have to put up with or look for ways to resist. One of the ways is to install a subframe or the same CV joints on previous modifications of the car. Sometimes car owners try to combat howling and humming in the cabin by improving sound insulation. But usually a new Shumka does not help and becomes only a waste of money.

You can modify the car as follows:

• installation of the RK subframe;
• silent RK handles;
• front axle gearbox release brackets;
• replacing the factory clutch with a unit from a Chevrolet Niva.

It is not at all necessary to do all this work on the car. It all depends on the owner’s requirements, assigned tasks and operating conditions. A subframe under the manual transmission and transfer case will reduce vibrations and extraneous sounds emitted by the units to a minimum. It is a natural way to protect the transfer case and increases the possibility of adjustment along the axes. Numerous tests have shown that this particular method of combating howling and humming is the most effective. Typically, the kit is made of structural steel, which allows you to accelerate the car without excessive noise up to 140 km/h, provided that you have the appropriate motor.

Complete sound insulation of the interior with high-quality sound-absorbing materials is advisable if at least one job from the presented list of ways to combat car noise has been previously completed. The operating comfort of the machine can be increased with the help of double-row imported bearings and seals pressed into the rear cover of the transfer case and the front axle disengagement clutch. Such a kit can not only eliminate hum, howl and vibration, but also prevent oil leaks on the transfer case flanges. In general, there are not so few real and effective ways to improve the comfort of an SUV.

Possible signs of malfunction

The transfer case is not present in all VAZ passenger cars, but only on cars with two drive axles.
In the transmission, the transfer case (TC) is installed at the rear of the gearbox; a rear driveshaft is attached to its shank, which connects the transfer case to the rear axle. The front axle is also driven by the steering wheel; it is connected to the transfer case by a front driveshaft. The reduction gear in the Republic of Kazakhstan is designed to obtain high torque, it is used to overcome difficult sections of the road, and helps to cope with off-road conditions. The VAZ Niva transfer case contains the following main parts:

• the body itself;
• front axle drive shaft;
• intermediate shaft;
• drive shaft;
• gears;
• bearings;
• differential housing;
• satellites;
• differential lock clutch;
• gear shift clutch;
• flanges (for connection to cardan shafts);
• oil seals;
• control levers.

The transfer case on the Niva is a fairly reliable unit; problems with repairs in the mechanism itself arise mainly due to insufficient oil level in the valve - if for some reason the oil leaks out, intensive wear of all parts occurs. Among the frequently occurring malfunctions are:

• vibration in the body at various speeds when the car is moving;
• vibration when the vehicle starts moving;
• noise in the transfer case when the car is slipping or turning;
• difficult upshift or downshift, difficult engagement of the lock.

During the operation of off-road vehicles, parts and components of the transfer case gradually become unusable due to wear. Most often, the following interruptions in the operation of the mechanism occur:

• The front axle does not engage.
• The transfer case is overheating.
• Leaks and increased oil consumption of the transfer case.
• Unauthorized disabling of the front axle.

• the body itself;
• front axle drive shaft;

• intermediate shaft;
• drive shaft;
• gears;
• bearings;
• differential housing;
• satellites;
• differential lock clutch;
• gear shift clutch;
• flanges (for connection to cardan shafts);
• oil seals;
• control levers.

A violation of the normal operation of the VAZ-21213 transfer case can be assumed by the following signs:

1. Delays when connecting front-wheel drive.
2. Transfer case overheating.
3. High transmission oil consumption.
4. Spontaneous disconnection of the front axle.

What's the noise (noise in the transfer case, gearbox)?

Reg.: 02/16/2015 Messages: 2 From: Russia, Yaroslavl Age: 34 Car: VAZ 21214, 2004

Hello! I’ll write in this topic, Google directed me exactly here.

My gearbox began to howl loudly. Moreover, it howled a little before (probably, like everyone else, such a trolleybus rumble), no new sounds seemed to be added, but the old ones became many times louder, it hurts the ears in the cabin. The gearbox howls exactly, in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears, and in 4th everything is quiet at any speed. There is no whine at all when pressing the clutch. In neutral, if you release the clutch, the sound also became a little louder (previously it was only noticeable if you listened) than before, but the annoying loud howl is in 2nd-3rd gears, under load or when braking the engine.

The oil in the gearbox is normal (although I immediately thought about it), after the whine appeared, they replaced it with a new one - nothing has changed.

I have read many messages with similar problems, but my case is different in that the loud howling appeared precisely after I replaced the clutch myself (by me)

Everything went, in principle, without complications, except that there was one nuance: when removing the CV joint, I unscrewed the nuts from the bolts securing the CV joint donut to the box, but forgot to remove the bolts themselves from the donut - due to inexperience, I thought that the CV joint would move back and the donut itself would come off the bolts — tugged the gearbox back and forth - it didn’t work, until I got the strength to return the gearbox to its place, it hung on the gearbox + lowering lever for half a minute, although I don’t think that this could ruin the gearbox. I replaced the washout and the rear gearbox support cushion, the rubber on the old one was cracked. That's all. The box seemed to fit back in without any problems, nothing was hammered in by force. I didn’t drop the gearbox, didn’t hit it :)) When you screwed the gearbox (together with the clutch housing) to the engine, the gearbox itself, I hope, did not need to be “centered” relative to the engine, it itself gets in the right place? :) What could be the reason for such an increase in howling? in the gearbox after removing/installing it? In the cabin, I re-checked the noise under the decorative panel several times, even added a layer of new noise - the howling does not become quieter, it seems to be spreading all over the bottom.

I don’t even know in which direction to dig, before replacing the clutch to the gearbox there were no complaints at all. Where could I screw up with the box?

I drove it again, I’ll add: in 5th gear the hum appears again, but a little different. On the 4th everything is quiet. Grinding, crackling, knocking - nothing can be heard, only an terribly loud, even hum of approximately the same pitch - it is much louder than the engine, heater, or heater fan. It’s as if it’s the same sound as before, only very amplified by some kind of “horn”

General topic about sounds from the gearbox (box)

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 627 / 51712
Reg.: 08/07/2006 Threads / Messages: 1 / 145 From: St. Petersburg, Komendantsky airfield Age: 50 Car: Chevy Niva GLS, 2013

The master said that most likely it was the input shaft bearing, but this is a disease of all boxes on the classics and in his memory only one and a half times because of this the box eventually fell apart. And to repair half a box, I hardly need it (in the sense of not him, but I) hardly need it (for money, for example)

Should I insist or is it really possible to continue driving like this?

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 627 / 51712

Name: Pavel Reg.: 08/28/2006 Threads / Messages: 6 / 1040 From: Moscow, Teply Stan Age: 46 Car: Motorcycle: HONDA VFR 1200 X Crosstourer.

I have the same problem. I was driving to St. Petersburg on January 2, 2007, a squealing sound appeared, there was no reaction to pressing the clutch, I pulled the gearshift knob and the sound disappeared. Then he showed up a couple of times on the way back. The sound is synchronous with engine speed (with the clutch disengaged). It looks like the input shaft bearing is spinning in its seat. The mileage is 60 thousand, I’m thinking about gutting the box (it’s probably time) it hasn’t stopped yet.

OFF TOP: Guys were in EVERY village, back and forth. I never got caught!

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 627 / 51712

Name: Pavel Reg.: 08/28/2006 Threads / Messages: 6 / 1040 From: Moscow, Teply Stan Age: 46 Car: Motorcycle: HONDA VFR 1200 X Crosstourer.

Reg.: 05/04/2006 Threads / Messages: 9 / 119 From: Korolev, Moscow Region Age: 42 Car: was 21213; SGVN 2.4 5D manual transmission 2008

I squeal.