Replacement of thresholds VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

How to properly replace the underbody of a car?

#1 Maler

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#2 Vladimir from Kamyshin

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#3 Peacemaker

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City: Irkutsk. Alexander, can you please

Can anyone tell me how to replace it correctly and reliably? I looked for smart welders in the area, but couldn’t find them. Seeing the work of some craftsmen, it became simply creepy (I don’t give a shit either). I would be grateful for your advice.

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#4 MIHA75

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City: N. Tagil

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#5 Maler

thank you. The car was bought by my sister and who knows. It turned out to be a bit broken. It’s a pity to sell. I changed a lot of things with my own hands (debut). The bottom is rotten. Apparently it was without treatment. I’ll be honest, I don’t know about the thresholds and the above. I don’t even know such words))) that’s why I’m looking for a person who will do it conscientiously. They suggested taking it to a service center to measure and level the geometry (visually the left gap on the trunk is a little larger. I think a stretcher and a properly tightened lid will correct the situation). In general, they don’t take on small rust, they offer to paint everything at once, with welding work the price becomes huge. Don’t laugh, but if I had the extra 100 thousand they ask for at the service center, they wouldn’t take the ’04 VAZ. I cooked it myself, without experience. I've been working recently. and not particularly neat. You still have years of training to reach your level. in general, I’m afraid myself. If I looked at how it’s done, maybe I could learn. In welding, I mastered what I can with the help of your forum and by trial and error. I would have practiced on some Cossack, but not))) inner voice yells - don't poke your nose in) sorry for the many letters)

Preparing for work

First of all, you need to raise the left side of the machine to make it more convenient to work. We just drove it onto its wheels. Thus, the body remains on natural support points and does not experience additional loads that could lead to its deformation during operation. Be sure to secure the opposite wheels with stops.

Next, we remove everything that will interfere with the work: fender, fender liner, plastic trim, interior trim, seats, wiring, etc. Only bare metal should remain. As you can see, the part of the front arch located at the threshold, the threshold itself, especially at the front and rear, as well as the areas of the bottom adjacent to it, were primarily affected by corrosion. The situation is, one might say, classic. On the right side the picture was similar, perhaps a little sadder.

Removing the old threshold and rotten areas of the bottom

We take a grinder and cut off the outer side of the threshold, trying to immediately cut through the amplifier located behind it. We cut not right down to the door, but a little lower; This will make it easier to weld the pipe. Bend the cut section down and remove it. Then we move on to the inner wall of the threshold; We also cut it approximately along the fold line.

We bend the amplifier towards the outer wall of the threshold, and shorten the elements sticking out between it and the inner wall as much as possible and bend them upward. You can weld them to the top of the threshold, or you don’t have to weld them, because... a little higher they are already connected by spot welding to the threshold and amplifier.

Let's get to the bottom. Here you just need to cut out the rotten areas. In some places it’s more convenient to crawl up from the interior, in others from below.

Features of repair and overcooking of the VAZ 2112 underbody

The VAZ 2112 model is the heir to the 10th family. In turn, the first car after the collapse of a large country was designed on the VAZ-2108 platform. The popular hatchback dates back to the mid-80s, which indirectly indicates the shortcomings of the age-old design.

Design Features

The bottom of all modifications of the family was made of rolled steel. Additionally, to increase strength, stiffening ribs are made.

Important! Since the frameless design involves accepting the load from all body and transmission elements, it is the condition of the bottom that determines the functional readiness of the car.

Cars of different body types have different overall dimensions. At the same time, the wheelbase of all modifications is the same - 2,492 mm. The size and shape of the bottom on all machines also has no fundamental differences.

Family service experience indicates that most often - in 9 cases out of 10 - repairing the underbody of a VAZ 2112 begins with checking the condition of the body side members. Corrosion processes require their strengthening.

How to find rust on the bottom

A prerequisite for trouble-free operation of the 12th family hatchback is periodic inspection of the car for corrosion from below. Even cars from recent years of production need additional processing.

It is better to carry out a comprehensive inspection of the bottom. Among the main detected defects are:

peeling of the anti-corrosion composition;
the appearance of local foci of corrosion (jack attachment points, thresholds);
presence of fires on the interior side.

The sequence of actions for replacing the threshold box

It is necessary to place the car on a level surface; a level garage floor, boards, etc. will do. This is very important, because when repairing rotten cars, the gaps of doors and other elements can slip away.
By marking the positions of the hinges on the pillars, you can remove the doors, as they interfere with the removal and installation of the threshold.
If the car is rotten and you are afraid that the body will “fold”, you need to fix the original position. This can be done by inserting guy wires into the door opening, guy wires from the projection of the rear sofa and in the A-pillar, placing a block about 1 m long and pressing it lightly with a jack. Thanks to these simple manipulations, you will keep the gaps of all doors in their old position.
Experienced people on my favorite body forum divided the replacement of thresholds into two options: correct and not quite correct. Proper repair involves replacing both fenders and sills. At worst, the threshold and the hams of the wings. This is necessary because the threshold is welded to the front pillar and to the rear arch far under the wings, and replacing the threshold without dismantling the wings remains problematic, if not impossible. But if everything is in more or less normal condition, then you can resort to the second method - welding the amplifier and butt welding the threshold trim.
Also, before sawing the threshold, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the inside of the threshold with the noise insulation removed; if it is rotten, then it is necessary to weld a curved piece of metal that needs to be used to connect the inside of the threshold with the floor panels.
After you have fixed the car body, you can begin to dismantle the old threshold. This can be done as you prefer, starting from the front or the back. It is better to brighten the weld spots, use a chisel less, because the edge is deformed, which is then quite difficult to straighten. For additional rigidity of the boxes, you can leave a strip from the old amplifier and lining in the area of the rubber seal, or one of them, this makes it easier to weld the new threshold and increases its rigidity.
The threshold consists of three parts - an amplifier, a connector, and a threshold cover. When replacing thresholds, the connector is often not a standard one, but is made from a suitable piece of tin a little wider than the standard one.
After dismantling the threshold, it is necessary to clean the edges from rust and old welding residues.
VERY IMPORTANT! Thresholds must be replaced as quickly as possible, within reasonable limits, of course. That is, you should not cut off the threshold and leave the car for 2-3 days, it may lose its geometry.
If the hinges of your doors are in order, but the upper corners of the doors touch the pillars, then this can be fixed. It is necessary, with the doors open, to use a jack and an extension to rest against the ledge of the rear sofa and the upper curtain of the door. Then grab this distance with a pipe from inside the rack. Try on the door if you need to add or remove. After welding the thresholds, the pipes can be cut off.
The new threshold is welded in the following sequence - amplifier-plate-connector. After cleaning all the surfaces that will be welded, you can begin welding the threshold amplifier. It must be cooked semi-automatically in a carbon dioxide environment through drilled holes with a diameter of 5-6mm. To make it easier to install the amplifier in the area of the B-pillar, provided that the old amplifier is more or less intact, you can leave a piece of the old one and weld the new amplifier to it. In the lower part, a threshold connector is also welded through drilled holes. The CONNECTOR is welded at this step only to the amplifier! It is welded to the floor last.
Attention! Trying on the threshold overlay is carried out only with the doors installed! Otherwise you might miss :)
After welding the threshold amplifier, it is necessary to clean the welding points and weld the trim through the drilled holes in the threshold trim. The pad is welded to the rack in several ways, depending on what is more convenient, the main thing is that the connection is strong.
Lastly, the connector is welded. There's a little trick here. The connector is welded to the floor panel; this can be done from a hole or through holes drilled in the floor panel. In order not to catch scale on your head, you can drill holes in the floor and, pressing the connector from below with a jack, weld it through the holes.

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How much does it cost on average to digest the bottom of a VAZ-2112?

VAZ-2112 is a Russian-made five-door hatchback. The car is reliable, of high quality, but, like any vehicle, it breaks down over time. Typically, a motorist is faced with wear and tear on the underbody. The service for overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 in Russia costs from 8,500 to 29,000 rubles .

What is this?

Re-welding the bottom means updating the floor of the car using welding equipment and a number of tools. The bottom of the car is the most vulnerable place. It takes on mechanical damage, the negative effects of active chemicals, and dirt. Most often you have to deal with the corrosion process.

Overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 may be required in the following cases:

The bottom is covered with rust.
There are holes.
There are big cracks.
The bottom has become thinner.

In these cases, auto technicians recommend overcooking. This work is labor-intensive and expensive. To repair a car, you need to do a number of these steps:

Find a service station that restores VAZ-2112 cars.
Contact the administrator and ask him about the terms of cooperation and approximate prices for services.
Agree on a time to come to the master or call a specialist.
Provide your vehicle to the mechanic.
After a professional inspection, negotiate the exact cost of the work and the time frame for its completion.
Give consent for repairs.
Accept the job.
Pay the specialist the previously agreed amount of money.
Receive a warranty card for the work done.

The wizard performs a number of such actions:

Inspects the bottom of the car.
Makes a decision about the need to digest it.
Cuts out the damaged part.
A patch is welded to this place.
Treats the area with an anti-corrosion compound, sealant and mastic to increase resistance to external negative influences.
Provides the restored car to its owner.

For work, the specialist uses a semi-automatic welding machine, gas welding.

What does the price depend on?

In Russian car repair shops, the price for overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 car varies. When compiling a price list, the company takes into account the following points:

Dimensions of the damaged part of the bottom.
Maintainability.
Difficulty of work.
Urgency of the order.
Place of work.
Prestige of the auto service center.
Pricing policy.

Types of service

Overcooking the bottom of a VAZ-2112 car can be:

Using semi-automatic welding equipment:
Using gas welding.

Depending on the location of the repair, the service is:

In the garage of a private master.
On the territory of the car service center.
At the location of the client's car.

Depending on the time that the client allocates for work, overcooking occurs:

Urgent.
Not urgent.

According to the performer, overcooking is classified into:

Professional.
Independent.

How to determine the degree of damage to thresholds

Before deciding whether you really need to replace the thresholds or whether you can get by with cosmetic repairs of the car, you must:

Raise the car using a lift or place it on an overpass.
After this, a visual inspection of the damaged areas is carried out, namely, where corrosion began to appear. The paint in these places peels off exactly until it reaches the point where it adheres to the car body.
You should be prepared for the fact that replacing thresholds will entail additional costs required for painting work.
It is not always necessary to make a complete replacement; sometimes it is enough to do this with just a small damaged area, and your car will serve faithfully for a single year.

As a rule, minor damage occurs when the threshold receives impacts from any foreign objects, as a result of which peeling of the paintwork begins and, accordingly, the further appearance of rust.

Underbody repair of VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

The history of car repairs began precisely because of the floor and everything that should be structurally welded to it. All the “surprises” were hidden under the internal plastic linings and carpet, visually there were no problems visible if not for one “but”! It was summer outside, the temperature was over 30, there was almost no rain for a month, and the places under the rugs at the doorstep were still damp. I took off the plastic, peeled back the carpet, and there the standard thermal insulation was wet and already beginning to deteriorate, and everything “bloomed” under it! It turned out that there were still small holes on the bottom, not noticeable from below under the factory sealant and anti-gravel, and it was through them that the insulation picked up moisture. In addition, some stupid patches that were falling off, holes in the side members and internal sills were discovered. My first thoughts after seeing it were “I’m selling everything!” Then I recovered from the shock and decided that maybe it could be fixed. Since it all worked out in one go, remake the car to suit you.

The scene is a garage. We cut, saw, disassemble.

Survey of the scale of the disaster.

Identification of dead places

We cleaned the floor of standard vibration insulation and inspected weak points. It was decided not to use any repair inserts, but to replace it entirely. The next day, go shopping to look for factory flooring.

We bought it and cut it into three parts so that it would fit into my dad’s car)

Third part, central piece. This part of the body remains original.

We cut and shred, having previously marked the future edge on which the new floor will be applied.

A car without a bottom...

They cut off the floor and part of the threshold on the left.

The lower edge of the spar was badly damaged by corrosion (there had previously been a patch on it to cover the hole), and there was nothing left to weld the floor. The floor spar extension and the spar connector are also replacement parts. Assembled spars were purchased, which were later cut in half. Next is the important stage of adjusting the seam location and fitting it on the car. The old spar was cut down to intact, undamaged metal.

We clean the factory soil.

How far did you manage to remove this blackness?

The “spar assembly” is prepared. The adjacent edge is adjusted in place using a grinder. First roughly, with a cutting wheel, then more precisely with a cleaning wheel. To increase the area of the seam, the cut was made not in a straight line, but at an angle. Also, just in case, two additional pads were welded for strength.

Spar cutting line

This node is in those documentation.

Catalog numbers and exact names of spare parts (used 1,7,8).

Everything is in its place

Before installing the floor, the old part of the spar was sanded and primed as much as possible.

Test fitting of the floor.

Everything matched up as it should. We prime.

Completely ready for welding, holes for the spar are made in advance.

Some of the edges overlap (about 10-20mm) by ). Additionally, 2 pieces of “front floor spar” and 2 pieces of “floor reinforcement for the front seats” are required.

Front floor spar

floor reinforcement for front seats

Well, here’s the finished version) The burnt out spots were sanded with reserve and painted over with phosphating and acrylic finishing primer.

The floor is in its rightful place

The very last stage is sealing the welds. The sealant was gray CARSYSTEM, two 310 ml tubes were used.

It takes about a day for the sealant to dry completely.

This stage has come to its logical conclusion, the body is intact and it makes me happy!

I post technical information that was used during the body work process. Maybe it will be useful to someone.

Publisher: Volga Association for the Production of Passenger Cars (AvtoVAZ) ETC "AvtoVAZ Maintenance" Title: VAZ-2110 car and its modifications. Technology of maintenance and repair. (Volume 6) There are six of them in total: Volume 1 - “VAZ cars: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 2 - “VAZ cars: technology for repairing bodies and body parts”; Volume 3 - “VAZ-2108, 2109 cars and their modifications: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 4 - “VAZ-1111 car: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 5 - “VAZ-2121, 21213 cars: technology of maintenance and repair”; Volume 6 - “VAZ-2110 car and its modifications: technology of maintenance and repair.”

What was useful to me in the repair:

Removing and installing the body side panel.

B — body side right/left; Br — front fender mudguard right/left; UP — right/left front side pillar amplifier assembly; R - wind window frame; C — wind window pillar, inner right/left; UV - wind strut amplifier right/left; PC - roof panel; Nbv — upper right/left sidewall trim; U - roof reinforcement assembly; Pun — corner rear panel, outer right/left; Sp — right/left floor threshold connector; L — front spar assembly right/left; PP — front floor panel; Nbn — lower middle sidewall trim right/left, Кз — rear right/left fender; Ps - middle floor panel; LS - middle right/left floor spar.

Body side assembly with reinforcements and trim

B — body side right/left; UP — right/left front side pillar amplifier assembly; UV - wind strut amplifier right/left; UB — sidewall reinforcement for mounting the trunk assembly; Nbn — lower middle right/left sidewall trim assembly.

View of the front floor from below

Front floor view from above

Detaching and installing the middle floor assembly

Ps - middle floor panel; A — rear wheel arch right/left; LS - middle right/left floor spar: Psr - middle floor cross member; Lz — rear right/left floor spar; N — rear floor extension right/left; PP — front floor panel; Pps - front cross member of the middle floor; Sp — right/left floor threshold connector; B — body side right/left.

/ Do-it-yourself replacement of VAZ 2111 thresholds video.md

Replacing thresholds on a VAZ 2111 with your own hands video - Replacing thresholds on a VAZ 2110

We change thresholds on a VAZ 2110 with our own hands We change thresholds on a VAZ 2110 with our own hands Replacing thresholds on a VAZ 2110 We change thresholds on a VAZ 2110 with our own hands Replacing thresholds on a VAZ 2110 We change thresholds on a VAZ 2110 with our own hands

Register and collect points. Subscribe to notifications of new comments. How to insert an image into a comment. Feedback Mobile version of the site Help for the site Privacy Policy. Login Password Remember me Forgot your password? XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva. Replacement of VAZ thresholds May 02 Author: I will provide the replacement of thresholds to specialists I will sell a car Is it possible to use simple electric welding instead of a semi-automatic machine? I'll probably trust my neighbor. Update list of comments RSS feed of comments for this entry. Please follow simple rules: Do not insult someone else's dignity; 2. Do not use profanity, in other words, swear words; 3. Do not add comments of a meaningless nature, flooding. Register and collect points. Copying of material is permitted only with a link to the source. The VAZ body of the tenth family is not of high quality; it is also highly susceptible to corrosion, like other AvtoVAZ models. If the body was not treated with anti-corrosive, and the car was operated in conditions harsh for metal, then within a few years the rust will show through. Now you need to clean all the seams with a grout disk. It is inconvenient to cook from below, so it turned out to be not very holes and small bolts and nuts. On the inside, where the nuts are, there are drops of welding to make the fastening more durable. We roll it at the bottom, that is, we clamp the threshold onto the connector; there is a special bend on the threshold at the bottom for this. Next are the patches on the bottom, here is one of them:

Features of repair and overcooking of the VAZ 2112 underbody

Design Features

The bottom of all modifications of the family was made of rolled steel. Additionally, to increase strength, stiffening ribs are made.

Important! Since the frameless design involves accepting the load from all body and transmission elements, it is the condition of the bottom that determines the functional readiness of the car.

How to find rust on the bottom

It is better to carry out a comprehensive inspection of the bottom. Among the main detected defects are:

peeling of the anti-corrosion composition;
the appearance of local foci of corrosion (jack attachment points, thresholds);
presence of fires on the interior side.

You should not delay diagnostics, since if the iron is damaged by 70% of its thickness, restorative repairs are difficult to carry out. It is more convenient to do diagnostics when lifting the car on a lift or driving into an inspection hole. It would be a good idea to look under the upholstery and from the interior.

Causes of rust and preventive measures

Among the reasons for the acceleration of corrosion processes on the bottom of the model with index 2112 are:

storing the car outside during temperature changes and high humidity;
operating a vehicle in difficult road conditions;
water getting under the interior trim.

Almost any car over 7 years old is monitored for corrosion.

Preparatory work before restoration

Preparatory actions involve several sequential operations:

dismantling seats and interior trim;
removal of moldings (if installed);
dismantling of air ducts;
removal of noise and emissions insulation materials;
Removing wiring elements.

In the case of the proposed replacement of the bottom of the VAZ 2112, it will be necessary to remove the central tunnel with the dashboard. This will make it easier to access the engine compartment.

The procedure for carrying out repair work

All work is conventionally divided into 3 stages: preparation of the bottom, replacement of the entire element or re-welding of individual parts, reassembly of the dismantled parts.

Tools and materials for work

Work is carried out after changing into dry clothes suitable for welding work. Before starting, prepare tools (grinder, welding machine, drill) and consumables. You will need new soundproofing sheets, as well as:

mastic;
primer;
sandpaper;
protective enamel.

After disassembly, it will become clear whether the repair will include additional metal parts, or whether the entire bottom of the VAZ 2112 will need to be welded.

Safety precautions

Since the work involves welding, fire safety of the work must be ensured. To carry out proper repairs, you should turn off the power to the car and drain all the fuel from the tank. For convenience, the doors in the cabin are dismantled, having previously de-energized the windows. In order to preserve the geometry of the body, after removing the doors, the openings are strengthened by installing spacer elements.

Note! Make sure the vehicle is securely fastened.

Replacement of structural parts

When performing work, take into account that the components of the bottom are:

support platform;
composite panels;
threshold extensions;
amplifiers of side members and cross members;
connectors.

When carrying out troubleshooting, it becomes clear whether it is possible to repair a particular body element or whether the entire body will need to be replaced. In the case of fragmentary repairs, it is necessary to drill holes in the places where the part is attached using spot welding. The body element itself will need to be cut out with a grinder.

To digest a separate area, the patch is prepared in advance. Further work is carried out in the following sequence:

the area is polished, the iron element is welded;
welds are processed;
the element is primed, sanded, and coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

Partial replacement is possible only in 1 case out of 10. If the option of individual elements is not suitable, a complete replacement of the bottom is carried out.

Replacing the entire bottom

Before starting work, it will be necessary to dismantle the elements of the exhaust gas exhaust system. From the standpoint of the sequence of operations performed, a complete replacement does not differ from a partial one.

Welding work when repairing the bottom

Readiness for welding is checked according to the following algorithm:

grounding the device;
complete serviceability;
effective room ventilation.

First, the spot welding spots are drilled out and the bottom is cut out along the contour. A new element is inserted into the prepared area and welded around the perimeter in increments of 20-30 mm. The seams are processed. The best results will be achieved when using joint sealant.

Tools you will need for DIY repairs

In order to save several thousand rubles, the car owner will need the following set of tools:

Bulgarian.
Electric drill with a set of attachments for stripping.
Cleaning discs for grinders.
Standard set of automotive tools.
Semi-automatic welding machine and a couple of spools of wire.
The new thresholds themselves, if they are planned to be replaced. It is strongly recommended to change the entire threshold at once, as this will help avoid problems in this place for 2-3 years;
Primer, solvent, paint, putty and other materials that will be needed to process welds and paint new thresholds.

If the garage does not have good ventilation, then it is better to paint the car outside.

Preparation for repair

If there are holes in the threshold, it must be completely replaced.

Before you begin repairs, you need to carefully inspect the car's sills. It may be possible to get by with some cosmetic repairs. For inspection, the car must be driven onto an overpass or pit.

The process of removing the old threshold

It is also recommended to remove the wheels. In practice, only a few do this. Most often, independent repairs occur without removing other body elements. Those elements that may be damaged during welding or painting are simply covered with suitable material.

Before dismantling the sills, the fenders, seats and doors must be removed.

The replacement process itself occurs as follows:

First you need to disconnect the battery.
Next, using a grinder, the old threshold is cut out, or the damaged part of the threshold is removed.
After the threshold is removed, the body must be thoroughly cleaned of rust.
Those places where welding will take place also need to be cleaned of rust, putty and primer.

Only careful preparation of the base for welding will help to avoid welding seams in the future.

Video about dismantling the old VAZ-2110 threshold

Installing a new part

Before installing a new threshold, you need to weld the connector of the new threshold to the subframe amplifier.

We weld a new connector to the subframe reinforcement.

Welding should begin from the center of the part, gradually moving towards the edges. After the connector is welded, you need to clean all weld points. The further installation process is as follows:

The front panel of the new threshold is adjusted to the vehicle.
After the front part, the entire threshold is adjusted. Clamps are used for fixation.
The welding area must be cleared of paint and primer.
Holes are drilled at the bottom of the threshold panel.
Next, the outer part of the threshold is hung on the car, after which it is secured with self-tapping screws.
The lower part of the panel is welded through the holes made.
The connector is welded to the bottom of the body.
The metal must be carefully welded on top of the threshold.
After this, the welding seams are cleaned and processed.

Next, the entire surface of the threshold is prepared for painting. Primer and putty are applied. After stripping the putty, several layers of paint are applied. If necessary, apply clear varnish.

The result of replacing the threshold.

Important points

All work on replacing thresholds should be carried out with the machine installed on a level surface, without distortions.
Before welding the top edge of the new thresholds, you should definitely try hanging the doors on the car yourself. There are often cases when doors after welding either close with difficulty or do not close at all. And this can happen due to one slight misalignment of the thresholds, which is not always possible to notice with the naked eye.
You should never skimp on anti-corrosion treatment of thresholds. If it is not carried out, all the work done will go down the drain in a few years.
It is best to clean thresholds from rust and dirt using a solvent. When working with it, you need to follow safety rules: use gloves, wear safety glasses (this is especially important if you have to work on the bottom of the car while standing under an overpass - drops of solvent can easily get into your eyes), and apply the solvent itself only with a paint brush.
Before welding the thresholds, a series of holes with a diameter of at least 3 mm should be drilled in the areas of metal to which the threshold is planned to be attached. This will greatly facilitate the spot welding process, and the threshold will be held more firmly.

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The main thing when replacing thresholds is accuracy and attention. It is very important to cut out all rusty and damaged metal from both the underbody and the sills. If even one small area of rust remains, the destruction of the structure will begin again. And, of course, anti-corrosion treatment when replacing thresholds is mandatory.