Sound insulation on a VAZ 2114: advice from professional noisemakers

Sheet selection

You must immediately understand that for different parts of the interior, it is necessary to use different materials. And that vibration isolation is not the same as heat and noise insulation. The noisiest part of the VAZ 2114 is, of course, the engine compartment and the gearbox tunnel. This also includes the wheel arches, namely the pillars. It was chosen to glue StP Bimast bomb Premium on them. I got 4 sheets. iSilver 30 was placed on the floor of the cabin. It took 12 sheets. iSilver 30 10 sheets were used for the doors and ceiling and hood. A Barrier 8 x 2 sheets for the ceiling was purchased. and BiPlast 10K to eliminate crickets. There is the same material, but with tape. It turns out more expensive. It’s easier to take one leaf and have someone cut it into strips 1-1.5 cm wide. The most Jewish part of the purchase! As a heat and sound insulating material, we chose a simple roll on the construction market. Its price is 1000-1200 rubles. Moreover, there are 30 square meters. In the end, it was left for gluing the roof))) According to the receipt 6725 materials StP + 1100 rubles market.

How to calculate how much material is needed for sound insulation

Calculation of material for car processing is carried out as follows:

• 1. the total area with weak vibration load is considered
• 2. the total area is considered to be where the average vibration load is
• 3. the total area with high vibration load is considered

Based on these indicators, the required number of sheets with different material thicknesses is calculated.

roof of an average city sedan = 1.5 km/m Size of vibration isolation sheets in mm -500x700 is 0.35 sq/m Accordingly, we need 1.5 / 0.35 = for the roof

4 sheets Sheet size of noise-absorbing materials 750x1000 = 0.75 sq/m

Floor of an average city sedan = 3.5 km/m Size of vibration insulation sheets in mm -500x700 is 0.35 sq/m Accordingly, we need 3.5 / 0.35 = 10 sheets of vibration material for the floor Size of sheet of noise-absorbing materials 750x1000 = 0.75 sq/m Respectively Shumkov on the floor we need 3.5 / 0.75 =

4.6 sheets We take 5 sheets since sound insulation is always done with an overlap! 4-Doors of an average city sedan = 2.8 km/m Size of vibration insulation sheets in mm -500x700 is 0.35 sq/m Accordingly, we need 2.8 / 0.35 = 8 sheets of vibration material on the door Size of sheet of noise-absorbing materials 750x1000 = 0.75 sq/ m Accordingly, we need noise on the door 2.8 / 0.75 =

3.7 sheets We take 4 sheets since sound insulation is always done with an overlap!

For a good effect, many people use three layers of sound insulation using different materials, so you can use either 4 or 8 sound-absorbing materials in the doors, or 6 in the front doors, 3 layers and two layers on the rear doors.

Trunk of an average city sedan = 2.5 km/m Size of vibration isolation sheets in mm -500x700 is 0.35 sq/m Accordingly, we need 2.5 / 0.35 vibration material for the floor

7 sheets Sheet size of noise-absorbing materials 750x1000 = 0.75 sq/m Accordingly, we need 2.5 / 0.75 = noise for the floor

Three sheets will be enough, since the trunk already has standard trim on the sides.

Well, depending on your preference, all that remains is to choose the thickness of the material.

Preparing for work

1. The first thing you need to do is choose clothes. Take something you don't need. You will 100% get stuck in bitumen from the edges. It's hard to peel off. I advise you to do all this in slippers, for the convenience of jumping in and out of the car.
2. Tools. You will need a roll of fabric towels and a solvent (White spirit) to degrease surfaces. Set of keys: Heads for 10, 13, and a slotted Zhiguli key for removing seats. Choose from a screwdriver or screwdriver. Table spoon, for smoothing vibration-absorbing materials. A sharp construction knife, preferably 2 at a time if a group of people will be working. Rubber gloves for working with solvents. A friend spilled it on his hands, after about 20 minutes there were minor burns from it. Double sided tape. If desired, buy phosphoric acid with zinc. The price is 200 rubles at the construction site. Rust remover. Works great. It is better for her to remove the found spots during her work to avoid the germination of rot under the insulation.
3. A bunch of bags. Do not be surprised. Place each interior section, screws, nuts, washers in a separate bag and label it. Better yet, take a photo of where it’s coming from on your phone. Believe me, this will cut the interior assembly process in half, or even three. Be sure to take pictures of connecting all the connectors to the buttons and so on. Otherwise, you’ll get yourself a bunch of hemorrhoids if you don’t understand wiring.

Pasting materials

Vibro

The work is painstaking. Since the vibration isolator is placed first. And it should follow the shape of the body. This is where you need a spoon. It's very convenient for her to iron everything. Advice! Immediately where you see, cut technical holes. Then you simply won’t find it. All surfaces are first wiped with a solvent in order to clean them and degrease them. The most difficult part was pushing that same Bimast under the standard insulation in the engine compartment area. Since we did not remove the torpedo. Two of them were holding their native Shumka, my friend and I were ironing it. They also placed bimast on the box tunnel, since it produces a lot of crunches and vibrations. It is better to work with it by pre-heating it with a hair dryer. It will become much softer and more pliable. There were no problems with the rest of the cabin. I would like to note that it is simply not even necessary to paste over absolutely everything, without small gaps between the sheets. This material acts as a vibration dissipator. And based on the physics course, if you take a square sheet and paste it 80%, you will not see the difference from 100% pasting. In the photo below you will see that in some places we neglected accuracy.

Thermal noise

It's much easier here. It doesn’t matter at all whether this material will lie perfectly following the shape of the body, or whether you throw it away, securing it with double-sided tape. Again, let's call on physics, air dampens sound and retains heat. So the gaps between the heat noise and the vibration are even useful. Remember about technical holes!

Separate doors

The most convenient way is to glue exactly 1 sheet of iSilver 20 to each door, then use the trimmings on the trunk, for example. I advise you to invite a friend with thin long arms. To glue doors through technical slots. Give him gloves, otherwise he will cut all his hands with the edges of those very holes. We carefully glued only the driver's and passenger's doors from the inside. They glued them inside the rear ones as best they could. The anti-corrosion coating on the doors will still have to be thoroughly wiped off. Don’t be afraid where you erase it, cover it with bitumen. Therefore, nothing will start to rot there.

A few words about the hood

Vibra should be glued only according to the shape of the slots. And cover the top with one sheet of Shumka with double-sided tape.

How is the sound insulation process performed?

We completely disassemble the interior of the car, remove the seats, carpet, door trim, dashboard and ceiling. We remove everything that covers the metal. Only the handbrake should remain on the floor.

After that, take a rag, water and wash everything thoroughly. There shouldn't be any dirt. We also wash the doors. In addition, it is necessary to degrease everything. White spirit or brake cleaner works well for this.

First of all, we glue vibration-proofing material. It must follow all areas of the body and must be glued well. We use a hair dryer and a smoothing roller to ensure that the material sticks tightly. Important advice - if there is a technical hole, it is better to make it in the vibrating material right away, otherwise problems will arise later.

Interior assembly

The most difficult part of the whole process. No matter how hard you try, the thickness of all surfaces has increased. And everything will have to be attracted. First, we return the standard sound insulation to its place. Then panels and parts. We glue the same strips of Biplast on the edges of the door panels. They will remove all the creaks of panels on the iron doors. I glued them in the places where the rear window sills were attached.

We started collecting from the trunk, moving forward. The driver's seats were installed last. Two men had to stand on them to make it possible to pull them down. There are "springs" under the seats. Remember how they stood and how the hooks to them stood. Because if the fastening is incorrect, you will not be able to move the seat. Remember about the bags)))

Results

There were 5 of us. We had a bunch of sheets of different insulation, one box of beer, 8 packs of cigarettes, 20 packs of Rolton, 4 Coca-Cola, one cat and one dog))

Seriously, the whole process took 3 days. With smoke breaks and even pauses for light rain.

About the result: I’ll say heaven and earth right away, of course. We went to New Riga to check the quality of our work. The vibrations and squeaks of the gearbox have disappeared. Vibration and engine noise in the cabin have been significantly reduced. The wind no longer howls at 100 km/h. Vibration is also not felt from a passing truck nearby. The interior heats up 2 times slower in the heat. Since, already in winter, the stove warms up noticeably faster and cools down for quite a long time.

The music began to sound much cooler. Most importantly, the roof became completely blank. The sound of rain disappeared completely. In the cabin you can’t hear the keys being thrown onto the roof, for example. On gravel the noise from the wheel arches has decreased. The doors have become heavier, making them softer and easier to close. In general, the general impressions are comparable to the average foreign car.

Sound insulation of front doors

Good day to all!
This time we will talk about soundproofing the front doors, as I said in the previous BZ. For me, this matter turned out to be not so difficult and complicated, but tedious, especially considering that my bast shoes are healthy and they were sooooo cramped in the door. Well, let's start with the material I used: 1) M2 Vibration isolation SGM - 3.7 sheets

3) Bitoplast - 2 sheets (1x1.5)

4) Madeline - 1 roll (1m x 40cm)

I found a photo of the materials on the Internet, so don’t judge strictly, I only have one photo of the material itself, but it’s not clear what and where)

Something like this))) well, oh well. Since after installing the Euro handles I did not assemble the doors, this reduced the work a bit, the first thing I did was remove the protective covers in the door itself and wiped the doors inside as thoroughly as possible; to my surprise, there wasn’t that much dirt. After washing the dvikeys, I cut one sheet of vibration isolation into strips of about 13 - 17 cm, and began to paste over the door, where possible I pushed it behind the amplifier, I didn’t time the time, but it took quite a bit, since I was doing this for the first time, I smoothed it with my hands and heated it with an ordinary home hairdryer, the result of the first standing in the photo:

After I finished with the vibration, the splen layer went on, approximately according to the same pattern

after that I sealed the wires, rods and places where the casing would be attached with malelin, and closed all the holes except for the speaker

and finally a layer of bitoplast

second door in the same way

this is how I spent the weekend) Tell me honestly, all my hands were killed even after installing the handles, and with this procedure I actually mutilated them all, a lot more scratches and bruises) but it was worth it) Even with the rear doors disassembled and made up, I can already clearly hear the result , and how they close now, I actually enjoy it) Well, I described it as best I could, thank you all for your attention!) In the coming days, the second part of the sound insulation will be the rear doors) If you don’t understand anything, ask me, I don’t bite and I will answer all your questions) Smooth roads to you! )

Source

Do-it-yourself noise insulation of VAZ 2114 according to instructions

How to make sound insulation in a VAZ 2114

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of the VAZ 2114 has the most important goal - to reduce the level of audibility of extraneous sounds in the car interior. Noise comes from the power unit, the wind outside when moving quickly, and other sources.

If you know how to make noise insulation for a VAZ 2114 yourself, you can significantly reduce the noise level and save a lot of money at the same time, since services of this kind in service stations are not cheap.

General information about the process

The initial one is provided by the manufacturer at the stage of assembling the machine. But gradually, due to temperature changes, any material loses its beneficial properties.

Before you start carrying out the “Shumka” on your own, it is recommended to dismantle the seats, door trims, mats and free the car from the old standard insulation.

Note : Only by carrying out a complete and thorough soundproofing procedure can one hope for a significant reduction in noise from the outside. Only in this case will the cabin be perfectly quiet and comfortable.

Soundproofing panel VAZ 2114

It is especially important to treat doors, as they often become the main installation location for speakers. It is clear that this place should be well protected not only from noise penetration, but also from plastic vibrations and other negative phenomena.

Acoustic speakers in the doors

Along with sound insulation, the interior will also receive high-quality insulation. In Russian conditions this is extremely important. To achieve this effect, you need to combine vibration and sound insulation.

Soundproofing for VAZ 2114

“Shumka” carried out on a VAZ 2114 is often called tuning. This is true, because a real modernization of the car is being carried out. Operational parameters are increased and comfortable conditions are created when the vehicle is moving.

The driver is no longer oppressed by engine noise, his nervous system is not irritated by the strumming and vibration of plastic elements. All this cannot but have a positive impact on overall driving safety.

As mentioned above, the standard “Shumka” will not be of good quality; relying on it is the last thing. The process of carrying out “Shumka” on cars with high mileage is especially relevant. In general, such cars are very difficult to drive, since the noise penetrates everywhere, interferes with the normal operation of the acoustics, creates complete discomfort, and the trip turns into a very tedious task.

On sale today you can find a sufficient amount of high-quality materials for carrying out “Shumka”. There are a lot of them and making the right choice can sometimes be extremely difficult. One of the main indicators of a good material is not only the ability to absorb sounds, but also to be light in weight (details about materials in the table below).

Note. If the material itself is heavy, making noise will be difficult. As a rule, good and proper insulation involves laying several layers of material, a kind of sandwich consisting of layers of vibration and noise absorbers. Heavy materials will create excess weight that is dangerous for the car and its body, which will inevitably affect fuel consumption and the overall dynamics of the car.

Splen with foil

Among other things, you also need to lay out materials skillfully. The fact is that if you don’t pay attention to this, the materials will simply turn into a time bomb for the metal component of the car.

Poorly laid material creates gaps through which air, moisture, etc. will penetrate. And all this will inevitably lead to the appearance of the most terrible enemy of the body - corrosion.

Correct installation of the material always means following the instructions in a step-by-step sequence, using the right tools, using a hair dryer and much more.

In some cases, especially when carrying out the noise yourself, partial sound insulation is also appropriate. In this case, the target is the most noise-producing parts of the machine. Definitely the doors, then the trunk, the rear parcel shelf, and so on.

It is important, when working on your own, not to damage the upholstery. Unfortunately, this often happens due to the inept actions of the car owner who is carrying out such an operation for the first time. In general, conducting a “Shumka” is a painstaking and lengthy process, but it’s worth it.

Before carrying out soundproofing, it is recommended to carry out a partial or complete inspection of the machine. The causes of all vibrating and knocking sounds produced by suspension elements or other vehicle components must be eliminated. They may be loose or need to be replaced. The body and its parts must also be checked.

What does sound insulation provide?

Sound insulation allows you to solve the following problems:

• Significantly reduce the level of extraneous noise that enters the car interior from the street
• Completely eliminate squeaks and knocks produced by dashboard parts (see Soundproofing a car's dashboard is always necessary) and parts of decorative door trim
• Significantly improve the quality of musical sound in the cabin, which is especially noticeable when you have speakers built into the doors

Materials

On the VAZ 2114, door sound insulation is performed using the following materials:

• Vibroplast is a vibration-absorbing material used for soundproofing cars, suitable for use in any area of ​​the car body, be it interior floors, doors or roof, engine compartment partition, body sides, trunk lid or hood
• Vibroplast is a flexible, elastic material made on the basis of a polymer (rubber mastic) self-adhesive composition, using aluminum foil
• The logo and embossing are applied to the top of the foil.
• The material is moisture-resistant, does not decompose over time and under the influence of environmental factors, it resists corrosion and provides good sealing of the coating when applied correctly
• Retains its properties in the temperature range -40 +100 degrees
• Installation can be easily done on complex surfaces with relief; no heating is required during installation if the ambient temperature is above +30
• Be sure to roll from the center of the piece outward to remove any air bubbles and ensure a tight fit and seal.
• Madeline is the material most beloved by most car enthusiasts, which allows you to compensate for friction, thereby eliminating the occurrence of unpleasant squeaks and other sounds, and its price is affordable for everyone
• This material is actually an “anti-creak”, but unlike Bitoplast, it is thinner, which allows it to be used where the gaps are very small, the thickness of madeline is about 1-1.5 millimeters
• The scheme for its installation is very simple - on any of the surfaces that rubs against another, you will need to stick a piece of this material so that this material is located between the surfaces, and they come into contact only through it
• Any creaks and extraneous knocks will immediately disappear; such a moment is indispensable in the soundproofing of any car, since creaks are present to one degree or another everywhere
• Accent - needle-pierced (porous) material based on foamed polyethylene
• It is due to this structure that it perfectly absorbs sounds.
• Widely used for soundproofing machines in any installation areas
• It is considered mandatory to use coatings of a similar group when acoustically tuning cars (doors, roof (see Sound insulation of a car roof is part of a set of actions to reduce noise in the cabin), hood, interior, trunk)
• The surface of the material is oil and petrol resistant, plus it has good durability, heat insulating and sound reflecting properties

Algorithm for carrying out an operation to “shumka” a VAZ 2114 car

To isolate the interior from excess noise, you need to carry out soundproofing by following these step-by-step instructions:

• First, disassemble the car, removing those parts that make noise when driving. These could be mudguards, arches, fenders, etc. It is advisable to cover them from the inside with some kind of vibration-damping material;
• The seats will also need to be removed if the interior is fully soundproofed;

VAZ 2114 sound insulation of the panel and the interior as a whole

• Cover the floor of the car with a vibration damper and roll it in with a special tool.

Advice. To ensure that materials adhere better to metal or plastic, it is recommended to carry out work in a dry and warm room. In a damp room, it is better to preheat the foil with a special hair dryer, and only then roll it onto the surfaces of the body.

Soundproofing torpedo VAZ 2114

• The next material, as a rule, is Spleen. It has a sticky base, lays on surfaces easily, and perfectly cuts out excess noise penetrating from the outside;
• To install materials in the trunk, the lid is removed in advance, all screws and bolts are unscrewed.

Soundproofing the trunk of a VAZ 2114

Note. In general, disassembling the luggage compartment involves a separate operation. Here you will need to prepare everything thoroughly, disassemble the compartment down to the bare metal surface, pull out all the wires going into this area. As for laying materials, only clean and dry surfaces should be processed. After the material has been laid, you will need to put the wiring back in and close all the extra holes.

VAZ 2114 trunk sound insulation

• Door treatment (see Soundproofing VAZ 2114 doors can be easily done independently) is practically the most important procedure in terms of increasing the so-called “acoustic” properties of the interior. It is recommended to insulate these parts of the car with a good polyurethane-based material. The front doors of the VAZ model, which are entrusted with the role of a stand for acoustic speakers, are recommended to be rolled in two layers.

Note. In fact, the “noise” of the door also involves the initial disassembly of the upholstery, gluing both sides and the card. Door technological openings are closed only on one of the edges.

• The roof of the VAZ 2114 is also treated. In order to fully carry out the “noise” of the car ceiling, you will need to remove everything, from the mirrors to the upholstery;

Soundproofing the roof of a VAZ 2114

• No less valuable in terms of protection from the penetration of external noise and sounds of the internal combustion engine is the hood. You also need to be able to process it competently.

Sound insulation of the VAZ 2114 engine compartment and hood

Sound insulation of doors VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

Sound insulation of car doors VAZ 2114, 2113 and 2115 plays an important role in increasing driving comfort. It allows you to solve the following problems:

• significantly reduce the level of noise entering the interior from the street;
• eliminate knocks and creaks produced by internal parts and parts of the door trim;
• improve the sound quality of music in the cabin, especially if the speakers are built into the doors.

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Soundproofing the doors of VAZ 2114 , 2113 and 2015 can easily be done with your own hands. The materials used are relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at almost any auto store.

The recommended standard sound insulation of the front doors of VAZ 2114, 2115 and 2113, which, as practice has shown, gives a fairly good result, consists of the following steps:

Disassembling the door. Removal of the casing and subsequent disassembly must be done extremely carefully. It is important to remember (or better yet, write down) the sequence of operations, the correspondence of the unscrewed bolts and screws to their holes. For convenience, you can lay out the parts on a large surface in order of disassembly. The door closing mechanism and the window lift do not need to be removed - they will not interfere with the work, but putting them back is quite difficult.

Cleaning the inside surface of the door. It is necessary to remove the factory sound insulation and other coatings that may peel off (anti-corrosion coating, etc.), but it is important not to scratch the paint. The surface of the metal must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased - for this it is recommended to use White Spirit solvent; the very bottom of the door does not need to be degreased.

Sticker of the first layer of soundproofing material. The inner surface of the panel (the wall of the door facing outwards) is pasted over with vibration-damping material (self-adhesive Vibroplast Gold STP or its equivalent is recommended) - pieces are cut approximately in the shape of the contours to which they will be glued. This work, of course, is not easy - you need to contrive to stick “Shumka” through the openings of the technological holes, which is quite inconvenient, especially in the far corners. To avoid cutting your hands, it is advisable to work with gloves, using available means for pressing the material to the surface - a rolling roller (where it can be reached), flat tools, wooden blocks, etc. Where it is impossible to glue whole pieces, you can glue individual pieces overlapping each other, you need to cover as much surface as possible. When sticking Vibroplast, it is important not to close the drainage and ventilation holes so that condensation does not accumulate inside the door. If a circle cut from Bitoplast is glued behind the speaker on top of Vibroplast, the sound quality will improve, since the speaker will not resonate with the door.

Elimination of knocking and creaking of parts of the internal “stuffing” of the door. It is advisable to wrap all kinds of wires, rods, etc., located inside the door body with Madeline so that they do not knock when shaking; we pay special attention to the places where they come into contact with the body - here they can be wound in two layers. It is also very useful to make a Madeleine gasket along the contour of the door where the trim is attached.

Vibration isolation of technological openings. Factory-made holes are sealed with the same Vibroplast (pieces in the shape of the holes with an allowance of material along the contour for gluing).

Then it is recommended to cover the metal surface of the door on the trim side with Accent sound absorber or at least Bitoplast 10 mm thick. You should try to cover this surface completely, bringing the wires out (if any) and leaving the speaker exposed. Before this stage, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the lock mechanisms and window regulators, tighten the fasteners and, where necessary, apply lubricant.

Soundproofing of the casing. To reduce vibration and sound resonance of the casing, it is recommended to stick pieces of a vibration damper on it (preferably Vibroplast Gold) - not necessarily on the entire surface, so as not to unnecessarily weigh down the door - it is enough at the joints of the casing parts and on wide, flat areas.

Door assembly. Assemble the door, observing the correct sequence of operations. When installing the casing, replace the pistons with new ones or fasten it with self-tapping screws, where possible.

Soundproofing of doors 2114, 2115 and 2113 (rear doors and doors without audio system speakers). The technology described above is recommended for soundproofing doors that have powerful speakers installed. For doors without speakers or with low-power speakers, this procedure can be significantly simplified - just stick a layer of Vibroplast onto the panel and door trim, and also wrap the sealant around the wires and rods inside the door body.

When installing sound insulation, it is not recommended to use heavy materials - they increase the load on hinges and locks, which can lead to their deformation and problems with closing doors in the future. To increase the effect of sound insulation, it is also recommended to improve the door sealing - update the door seals or replace them with higher quality analogues.

In conclusion, it should be noted that sound insulation of the doors of VAZ 2115, 2114 and 2113 will give the desired effect only with an integrated approach, that is, if other parts of the interior are modified accordingly: hood, roof, floor, trunk, etc., otherwise on its own this operation does not make sense.

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Useful tips

Today, many owners of the VAZ 2114 install new acoustics in the car, more powerful and productive. They buy an expensive subwoofer (see 1000-watt subwoofer and a review of the best models), a powerful amplifier (see The best amplifier for a subwoofer and how to choose it) and a lot of other useful things that significantly increase the level and quality of sound. But imagine their disappointment when all the money spent turns out to be thrown down the drain, since the sound still leaves much to be desired.

It turns out that the whole point is insufficient insulation of the car body panels, through which noise penetrates from the outside. It’s no longer possible to enjoy clear sound: rattles, vibrations, knocks - all this degrades the quality.

As mentioned above, car doors are very important in this regard.

Here's what you need to focus on:

• They must be insulated on both sides, although excessive zeal should not be shown either. Heavy doors mean they may sag over time;

Sound insulation for VAZ 2114

• In addition, we must take into account the fact that the doors of the VAZ 2114 are often covered with cellophane. The latter makes unpleasant sounds and creaks in the cold season in the frost;
• It is advisable to lay materials on the door in large pieces (as much as possible). The materials used should not be visible beyond the edges of the sheathing.

It’s not difficult to learn how to carry out “Shumka” with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions, photos, materials, and videos will help in this matter. The factory standard insulation must be completely stripped off so that new materials can be installed efficiently.

Do-it-yourself soundproofing of front doors

Good day!

Plans for sound insulation were written earlier in the BZ, my job was to take and make the front doors noisy, the rear doors would also be noisy, but we ran out of material in our city. And so according to plan, as he made noise with the photo report. I will write what problems I encountered and how I solved them.

— Opposite the speakers I glue a circle of Bitoplast so that the speaker plays better and is not affected by sound waves reflected from the door;

— I check the functionality of the door opening mechanism and window regulator;

Everything was supposed to be like this according to plan, but here are my problems that needed to be solved: 1. when dismantling the casing, the fastening of the pistons broke off

2. two layers of bitoplast on the door and on the trim did not work as planned on my VAZ 2114

3. I didn’t fully cope with the third task, these are insignificant caps that the market offers us

I was not able to install the casing with Togliatti pistons for one simple reason: if the “father” does not fit into the “mother” it breaks and there are no options; if I can install it, it seems to hold, but I had to dismantle it, I couldn’t install anything else with them.

I refused to use splen in the front doors; for me, the priority is sound quality and the absence of squeaking.

As a result, the “noise” of the doors in the car has become slightly quieter, the doors are easier to close due to the increase in weight, and the sound of the acoustics has become more pleasant due to the closed space in the doors. Satisfied.

For soundproofing material on the front doors along with splenium (although I didn’t use it) I paid two thousand and kopecks, a ruble for the door))))

The calculation of the material for one door is as follows: Vibroplast 2mm - 2 sheets Bitoplast 10mm - 1 sheet

heated electric floor under the pool

I’ll clarify the name of the materials and dimensions, because I bought an analogue of these materials, apparently the factory has a different name, too.

I hope my post will be useful to those who are planning to do this.

Source

Table

Materials for vibration and noise insulation:

Soundproofing VAZ 2114: do it yourself

VAZ-2114 has a high noise threshold. While the vehicle is moving, the driver and passengers are forced to hear extraneous sounds. Sources of noise can be the power unit and even the wind. It’s difficult to call such a ride comfortable, so owners of domestic cars sooner or later think about how to soundproof a VAZ-2114 with their own hands.

Car maintenance yourself saves a lot of time and money. With a little experience and knowledge in repairing the VAZ-2114, you will always feel confident on Russian highways. Moreover, domestic cars seem to be created for studying the internal structure of the structure - mechanics allow you to independently eliminate almost all problems of the components.

Newbie car enthusiasts are wondering: how long does it take to install sound insulation? If you do everything slowly and in accordance with the instructions, the work can be completed completely in 5-6 hours. As a result you get:

• maximum reduction of noise entering the vehicle interior from outside;
• clear sound of the audio system;
• To listen to your favorite song while drowning out external noise, there is no need to turn up the volume.

Required tools and materials

To achieve good sound insulation, you need to prepare a whole set of tools and materials in advance:

1. Stroyizol SD 90 grade.
2. Splen marked 3004.
3. Accent 15 LM KS.
4. Be sure to buy vibroplast type Gold.
5. Adgilin.
6. Vizomat MP.
7. Stock up on a metal ruler.
8. A construction tape measure won't hurt.
9. Square.
10. Hairdryer, preferably a household one.
11. Montage.
12. Screwdrivers with different tips.
13. Awl.
14. Keys.
15. Sharp scissors.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging sound insulation for the VAZ-2114

It is necessary to begin arranging sound insulation in the cabin with a general cleaning of the car. Clean the internal structure from dirt, remove excess layers of materials from the vehicle, for example, upholstery, panels, as well as those parts that may cause extraneous sounds - mud flaps, fenders, arches.

Nothing significant can be done with them, but it is preferable to cover the inside with vibration-damping material.

What to do next:

1. Remove the seats.
2. Visomat MP is characterized by the absorption of vibration noise, so treat the entire plane of the trunk floor with it. This method also makes it possible to strengthen the rigidity of the machine; noise waves move to the lower, inaudible frequency range. Experts say that sticking Vizomat MP retains heat in winter frosts and at the same time keeps cool air in the car in the summer heat.
3. To properly and reliably glue Vizomat MP, you need to use a household hair dryer. First, wait for the material to soften and become elastic and only then proceed to process it with a warm air stream.
4. A dry and dark room for repair work is an important requirement to obtain the desired result. It is unlikely that it will be possible to heat the foil to the required temperature in a damp and cold room.
5. Vizomat MP is adjusted to the outline of the body component immediately; fixation must be done quickly, otherwise the material will not fit tightly. With this quality of gluing, you can’t expect significant sound insulation for the VAZ-2114. You shouldn’t rush either, otherwise the material will set, but will not meet its characteristics.
6. If there are no large sheets available, you can lay the panels overlapping each other, one sheet should overlap the other at a distance of 15-20 mm.
7. It is forbidden to seal technological recesses, components responsible for fixing parts, and hatches with Vizomat MP - after completing the soundproofing of the VAZ-2114 with your own hands, you will still need free access to these parts.
8. Vibration insulation should ideally be maximum; for this, not only the floor, but also the ceiling surface should be covered with noise-insulating material, and approaching the dashboard is encouraged.
9. If you decide to additionally soundproof the car interior, then the soundproofing layer must be laid on top of the soundproofing layer. Drivers who have done sound insulation with their own hands note that heat is retained in the cabin, which is impossible not to notice in winter.
10. Splen, on the one hand, has a sticky layer, so it sticks on its own and is fixed without effort. To cover the trunk with Splen, you need to remove the cover, unscrew the screws and bolts. What does it mean to disassemble the trunk? After dismantling, only bare metal remains; the wires located in this part of the machine are also removed. After laying the material, do not forget to re-arrange the wiring and cover the holes.
11. Door processing requires polyurethane-based material. Experts recommend treating the front doors of the car with the material in 2 layers.

When material is considered to have been installed poorly:

1. If there are gaps, cracks through which air enters the car interior and corrosion processes are accelerated.
2. The doors, trunk, and rear shelf should be treated (the latter makes a strong vibrating noise).
3. Damage to the upholstery is what you need to watch out for when fixing the Vizomat MP, if you are not tolerant, do not like monotonous work and are annoyed by doing your own car repairs, it is better to leave the sound insulation of the VAZ-2114 for professionals.
4. When starting to modernize the VAZ-2114, it is advisable to conduct a preliminary thorough inspection of the sources of vibrating and knocking noise - special attention should be paid to these details.

If the components are poorly secured, this defect must be eliminated. It happens that the element is completely worn out, and no matter how much you would like to get rid of the noise, other than replacing the part, there is no other way to solve the problem.

Sound insulation of the trunk of a VAZ 2114.

Let's start disassembling the trunk. We also put all the parts on a special rack.

In the trunk, it is also necessary to check the quality of the factory vibration insulation and then prepare the surface for installation by degreasing it.

To vibration insulate the trunk we will use two materials. The first layer on the bottom of the trunk is glued vibration isolation 3mm thick Shumoff M3

. To perform its functions to the maximum and avoid the formation of corrosion, we carefully roll it.

We also glue thicker M3

, and for the wings we use the less heavy
M2
.

We cover the maximum area of ​​the trunk with the exception of amplifiers and stiffeners. This arrangement of materials will allow us to ideally achieve the required efficiency with a minimal increase in weight, which, together with vibration insulation of the floor, will also help us reduce vibration from the road, increase the integrity and knockdown of the car.

Sound insulation of the VAZ 2114 engine compartment, as well as the body

The main task of sound insulation in a car interior is to reduce the audibility of sounds made by the engine, wind, and other extraneous noise. Sound insulation of the VAZ 2114, like other models of this family, is provided during assembly at the factory. But over time, under the influence of high temperatures and painting, it loses its insulating properties.

If it is not possible to undergo service, then you can install the Shumka on the VAZ 2114 with your own hands, in which case it is necessary to empty the interior of seats, rugs, door trim and old factory sound insulation. The car will be quiet and comfortable only with complete and thorough insulation of the doors, arches, fenders, hood, trunk, roof and floor. The doors are insulated to improve the quality of acoustics; the sound of a running engine will not be heard after the hood is insulated.

You can not only improve the sound quality of the acoustics, but also insulate the interior if you combine vibration and sound insulation during gluing. The process of preparing for dismantling consists of selecting the necessary tools for removing the casing. Removing upholstery material from the floor and ceiling will not be difficult, since the interior trim and seat mounts have a fairly simple design.

Soundproofing the floor of VAZ 2114.

Let's start disassembling the interior. Unscrew and remove the seats, plastic and center console. We put all the interior parts on a special rack to keep them in their original form.

Be sure to vacuum the entire carpet

Then we take it out.

We carefully check all factory vibration insulation, it should adhere well to the body, not crack or crumble.

Let's start soundproofing the interior

We degrease the surface and begin to install the first layer of vibration isolation Shumoff M3

. Sealing the front arches and the engine bulkhead as high as possible.

To vibration insulate the surface under the rear seat we also use M3

. We take all the sheets already preheated from a special oven and carefully roll them after installation.

This layer will allow us to significantly reduce vibration from the road, increase the integrity and knock-down of the car, and also reduce sensitivity from the road structure itself.

We degrease the floor surface again and begin applying the second layer.

We cover the entire floor from the engine bulkhead and under the rear seat with noise and heat insulator Shumoff P4

;

This will allow you to achieve higher efficiency and eliminate difficulties when assembling the interior.

The second layer will allow us to reduce noise from the wheels and road surface, as well as significantly increase the thermal insulation of the interior.

The main role of sound insulation

Soundproofing a VAZ 2114 car is a kind of tuning. Every driver wants to improve the performance of their car and create comfortable driving conditions. The noise of the wind, the running engine, studded wheels and rattling in the trunk depress not only the driver, but also the passengers in the cabin.

As already noted, the sound insulation of the VAZ 2114 car is not of high quality; within a couple of years after purchasing a new car, installing a noise isolation system is simply necessary. Extraneous noise penetrates everywhere, interferes with the purity of the music and creates some discomfort, making the trip long and tiring.

There are plenty of sound-absorbing materials on the market today. The main thing is that they must be of high quality and light. To prevent corrosion, there should be no air, bubbles or gaps underneath them. The tools are standard and can be taken from a car kit. If you need to heat the material for fastening, you can use a hairdryer.

Shumka VAZ can be carried out partially. It usually affects the trunk and doors. The instructions for carrying out insulation are simple; the work can easily be done with your own hands. To soundproof your car, you can also use the services of a car service.

Soundproofing a VAZ 2114 with your own hands will significantly save costs, although the process of disassembling the car is quite lengthy and painstaking. When disassembling, it is important not to damage the upholstery in the cabin. If everything is done correctly, the car will become much more comfortable.

There is a misconception that noise in the cabin is caused by the suspension. Of course it's worth checking out. But in fact, a common cause is precisely poor insulating material, the quality of which almost all VAZ models cannot boast of.

How sound insulation is glued to the doors of a VAZ 2110

As you know, the manufacturer of domestic VAZs pays little attention to sound insulation of the car body . The annoying noise of the engine and the rustling of the road surface do not add comfort while driving, neither to the driver nor to the passengers. Since it is quite easy to make sound insulation of individual elements of the body of a VAZ 2110 car, many car owners, after purchasing a car, immediately sound insulate the hood, doors, trunk and underbody. In this publication we will talk about independent soundproofing of VAZ 2110 doors.

It is important to understand that pasting the inside of the door is necessary to isolate the noise coming from the outside, and pasting the outer part, from the passenger compartment, is more necessary for good sounding acoustics.

Before proceeding directly to pasting the internal elements of the doors with special noise-absorbing materials, it is necessary to remove the trim, as described in this manual.

Using white spirit, thoroughly degrease the inner surface on which we will glue the Shumka. And now a few words about what material is best to use for soundproofing the doors of the VAZ 2110 . When choosing a material, you should take into account its weight, because if the sound insulation makes the door too heavy, then after a while it will sag and will not close well. According to reviews from owners, it is better to use ECO-2 for these purposes; it is two times lighter than ECO-4, and in terms of its absorbing properties it is practically no inferior.

As for gluing the internal parts of the VAZ 2110 door with vibration material. To apply sound insulation, you first need to mark and cut out pieces of vibration material. After this, using a production hairdryer, we heat up the Shumka and begin pasting from the inner parts of the door. We push it through the slots and, after gluing it, carefully smooth out the sound insulation using a roller. And so on, piece by piece, until the entire door is covered. I would like to warn you right away that this procedure requires minimal experience in car soundproofing.

How to soundproof a car interior with your own hands

To isolate the cabin from unnecessary noise, the following simple instructions will help.

1. The car is dismantled, metal parts that make unpleasant sounds when driving are removed. The lower part of the body, near the wheels, is especially subject to insulation.
2. Spare parts are covered with vibration-damping material - foil covered with a resinous layer.

Using a special rolling tool, scissors or a knife, you need to cover the entire inner surface of the body with foil, that is, roll a layer of foil onto it. For better setting of the material, it is advisable to carry out the process in a warm and dry room. If the room is damp, you can heat the foil with a hairdryer and then roll it onto the body. To increase noise absorption it is better to apply several layers.

The further material for pasting will be “Spleen” on a sticky base. It will well cut off unnecessary noise entering the cabin from the street. To install sound insulation in the trunk, remove the lid, unscrew the nails and screws. All wires must be pulled out to isolate all exposed areas. The trunk is disassembled down to the bare metal. The material is glued to a dry, clean surface. After gluing, the wires are reconnected and all unnecessary holes are closed.

Next, the doors are insulated with polyurethane and ventilation holes are formed. It is advisable to insulate the front doors with a double layer. They need to be disassembled, the trim and the bald door edge glued. To avoid squeaking when driving, you need to roll up the shirt and tighten the door and lock holes. Then the roof is soundproofed. Everything is removed: mirrors, visor, seal, door handles and the upholstery itself.

The ceiling is insulated. The upholstery is installed in its original place and the trunk is assembled. To soundproof the floor, you need to disassemble it and remove the old insulation. It is also advisable to cover the insulating material on top with a layer of polyethylene. Then glue the plastic panel and the areas under the seats. Next, insulate the surface of the hood.