Replacing (removing) the front door of the Lada Kalina (VAZ 1118, 117, 1119)

To remove the rear door trim we will need the following tools: a Phillips screwdriver and a sharp tool (I use a knife). We need to remove the following elements: door lock button, glass lift handle, door opening and closing handle.

To remove the glass lift handle, you need to slightly move the fixing ring with a sharp tool to release it from the hook.

Pull out the retaining ring as shown in the picture. After removing it, remove the handle.

Unscrew and remove the rear door opening handle.

Using a sharp tool, remove the plugs securing the door closing handle.

Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the handle.

Unscrew the door lock handle counterclockwise.

This is what the completely removed elements on the door look like.

Now the door trim is held in place only by clips; without fanaticism, we begin to tear off the trim from below. And we remove it completely.

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order; it is advisable to replace the door fixing clips.

The doors of any passenger car, including the Lada Kalina, are lined from the inside with special decorative panels. For various reasons, sometimes it becomes necessary to remove this trim, and here ignorant motorists are faced with a problem - there are no fastenings for the door card on the outside. In reality, the disassembly technology is not complicated, although it does include a couple of nuances that need to be taken into account.

Do-it-yourself car straightening

If you really want to, you can straighten body parts yourself, but you need to rely on your strength. If there is no appropriate experience, the owner can ruin the appearance of his car, and in the future the car owner will only complicate the work of the craftsmen.

As a rule, at home the driver does not have special equipment, so a jack and a rubber hammer are mainly used for straightening. The easiest way is to straighten small dents yourself, and if the body element is removable (front fender, door, hood), it is still better to remove it.

The easiest way to straighten the front fender yourself is to level the deformable surface; the part must first be removed from the car. After dismantling, the wing should be placed on a flat surface, covered with thick fabric (felt) - a soft base is necessary here to soften impacts. When striking, you should regularly inspect the wing to check how level the metal can be. If, as a result of straightening, the paint flies off, you need to prepare this area for painting - putty, sand, degrease and then prime.

To straighten out dents on the door, the body element should also be dismantled. After dismantling, the door is disassembled and the door trim is removed from it. If the dent is located approximately in the middle of the door trim, the defect can be easily eliminated - the iron can be tapped from the inside. “Garage diseases” are more difficult to cure, and straightening here should still be entrusted to professionals - it is unlikely that you will be able to do the job well on your own, and a thick layer of putty is not a solution, the putty may fall off.

In a station wagon

Today, many experts see the station wagon as the best creation of the Kalina family. Indeed, although its exterior is not distinguished by noticeable and catchy solutions, in order to appeal to a certain caste of consumers, it is an ideal vehicle of the classic type.

Initially, the designers were given the goal of inventing and constructing a car that would meet the needs of the masses. It was supposed to become a universal vehicle for every day. Both men and women had to like the car.

Regarding body production technology:

33 new materials were used in assembling the station wagon body to ensure European quality standards and compliance with safety standards. This includes not only metal parts, but also plastics, paints and much more;
The corrosion resistance parameter has been increased several times, thanks to competent and complete galvanizing of parts exposed to greater exposure to aggressive environments
The design of the body and interior parts was obtained entirely using computer geometric modeling. Thanks to this, it was possible to increase the rigidity and safety coefficient several times. This also affected the quality of manufacturing and mating of the front body parts;
Welding work is carried out exclusively by robotics. Today, according to the plant administration, about 360 robots are used.

Among other advantages of the body, we can highlight the large spaciousness of the interior and luggage compartment. This, in turn, was achieved due to a successful layout solution aimed solely at increasing the volume of internal space. In addition, the car was designed with a high seating position, which provided good visibility.

Regarding comfort:

It's easy to get in and out of the station wagon thanks to the large door opening angles;
The rear seats are equipped with convenient settings that allow you to place cargo of different sizes;
The interior is well protected from excess noise. For this purpose, additional door seals are provided;
The interior is protected at the highest level from fading and ultraviolet radiation due to athermal glazing;
The cabin provides high sound comfort. This is facilitated by proper sound insulation.

For safety:

The Kalina station wagon has a durable design. A corresponding crash test was carried out. Body deformation measurements were carried out after impacts from the front, side and rear. The following weak areas were identified, which were immediately significantly strengthened: the floor near the driver’s feet, the central door pillar, the crossbar under the seats, upholstery, side members and much more;
In a situation of poor visibility, when there is fog or twilight outside, visibility deteriorates. This directly affects the PB. To increase safety, it was decided to install electric and heated mirrors. True, such mirrors are installed only in the “Lux” configuration.

Regarding driving performance:

Thanks to the successful combination of body and suspension, good handling and maneuverability appeared. The station wagon is comfortable to drive, both in the city and outside it.

If you are the owner of a Lada Kalina, learn to care for it competently. Above was information revealing the features of the body of this car and a step-by-step algorithm for replacing the body. Instructions for taking geometric dimensions with your own hands are also described. Find out more about this from photos and videos.

Design and types of window lifters

Window regulators are a device designed to raise or lower car windows.

At the moment, there are a huge number of options for these devices, but the design, despite the differences in component parts for different models, is similar, it includes:

grooves that hold the glass by the side edges
so-called “rails” that ensure the movement of glass
Seal and damper, glass movement limiters in the up and down direction.

A window regulator of any design consists of two main elements:

drive unit
lifting mechanism - transmitting vibrations of the drive movement to the glass, and thereby ensuring its movement.

The drive is divided into two types:

Mechanical, known to us from Soviet cars, where in order to lower or raise the window, you need to turn the window lifter handle.
Electric, typical of modern cars, where to move the glass you just need to press the window button. The electric drive consists of a reversible electric motor with a worm-type gearbox.

In addition, window regulators differ depending on the mechanism of glass movement:

rack and pinion
cable
lever

Each option has its pros and cons and technical features. All these device options have one thing in common: one day they fail; this problem especially often occurs in a model that is so popular today as the Lada Kalina.

There can be dozens of reasons why power windows malfunction, but the most common are the following:

The commutator brushes of the electric motor, which is responsible for the glass movement process, freeze. This happens, as a rule, due to overheating of fragile graphite brushes, unstable to sudden temperature fluctuations, and this factor starts a chain reaction: overheating of the brushes begins to melt the nest, which is made of plastic in all Kalinas, and not of the best quality. For this reason, the brushes lose mobility, and the device can only be brought into working condition using a hammer. At the initial stage of the breakdown, it is enough to give a good knock or two on the door trim, but after a couple of weeks, this method stops working, and then you will have to disassemble the window regulator to repair it.
Another cause of failure, typical of the Lada Kalina, as well as many other VAZ models, is the ill-conceived electrical circuit. The contacts cannot withstand the load placed on them, there is no unloading relay, which is why all the window regulators fail at once, and then it is necessary to repair not only the window regulators themselves, but also the remote control.

When it is impossible or too problematic to repair the device, it is more advisable to replace it with a new one. The following options are suitable for the Lada Kalina:

electric window lifter Garnet VAZ – 530 rub.
electric window regulator Ningbo – RUB 1,699
electric window lift AUTO-GEO – RUB 3,300.

Of course, the price is directly related to quality, but if the budget is limited, then the domestic option is not bad.

Now let's talk about how to install window regulators yourself.

Body and its replacement

In some cases, the body is so deformed that there is no need to talk about repairing or replacing certain elements. What should the owner of the Lada Kalina do in this case? Definitely, the body should be replaced, but here’s the problem - the latest amendments to the law prohibit this from being done at the official level.

Below is the standard algorithm of actions required to formalize a body replacement (was in force before the amendments to the law):

First, the body needs to be properly diagnosed. Here it is better to use the services of a good specialist who will give an opinion - repair is possible only by replacing the body;
The next step involves purchasing the body itself. It is recommended to do this either directly with AvtoVAZ or through official organizations involved in this. In this case, the LLC must issue a sales contract and other documents confirming the originality of the body;
Replacement stage. It must be carried out at an official service station, where they will put all the required stamps regarding the replacement of the old body with a new one. In this case, it is desirable that the seal appears on each of the documents;
Prepare a diagnostic chart after replacement. This is already a check of a car with a new body (it is usually carried out by the service station where the replacement was carried out). You should know that diagnostics are carried out in several positions. There may be 20, 50, 70, etc.;
Next you need to go to NAMI or some similar organization to obtain official permission. If they give a conclusion that the car meets all standards and does not pose a threat, then everything should go like clockwork;
The next stage is going to court with a package of all the documentation. Here you will have to work hard with appeals, etc., but success can be achieved.

There is little to explain the tightening of rules in the traffic police. There is no justifying logic. Those who converted numbers from the old body to the new continue to do so with impunity to this day.

How to remove the rear door trim of a Lada Kalina

AutoNews / Reviews / Tests

How to Remove the Rear Door Trim of a Kalina Universal

Long-term use of the Lada Kalina causes wear and tear on the interior upholstery. Due to the design features of the rear door, passengers do not have a basis for entering/exiting the car without touching the trim. Therefore, it acquires an unpresentable appearance and needs to be replaced. To remove the Kalina door trim correctly, you need to study the aspects of doing the job. The rear door trim is damaged in some Kalinas. Sometimes such shortcomings are simply eliminated; here there will be no need to remove it. In case of more severe damage, the upholstery is dismantled for restoration or complete renewal. Removal of the door trim is also carried out during repair work, as it is also called, when replacing parts located behind it. A similar procedure is needed for installing speakers, repairing power windows, and laying soundproofing material.

To remove the rear door trim, you will need the following tools:

curly screwdriver;
flat screwdriver;
10 mm socket wrench.

The trim of any Lada Kalina is fixed with bolts and special plastic holders - clips. When dismantling (especially in winter), the clips tend to break. It is recommended to purchase them before repairs are carried out.

According to the instructions, the technician must first remove the door lock locking latch. Using a flat-head screwdriver, press out and move the window mechanism lock to the side. After dismantling the device and socket, the lock is pulled back.

The next step is to unscrew the fastening screw and remove the handle. Any sharp object can dismantle its 5 plugs. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the fixing screws and dismantle the handle. A slotted screwdriver is inserted between the cladding and the door. The clips located along the entire perimeter of the structure are snapped off one by one. The upholstery is removed from the Kalina door. Using a special diagram, there is an option to find out how the pistons of this product are placed.

How to remove the door trim on Kalina 1st generation

To remove the Kalina front door trim, you will need a screwdriver. Use it to pry off the rear view mirror trim. Dismantle the locking latches. The plug is removed using an awl.

The next step involves unscrewing the screw that secures the armrest. To remove the screw, you will need to pull back the inner handle of the lock. After dismantling the handle, unscrew the bolt securing the armrest located in the niche. Then unscrew the 2.4 pocket screws. A slotted screwdriver is inserted between the door and the trim. This is necessary to release the clips.

If you need to remove the trunk trim on a Lada Kalina hatchback, then you will need to open access to the rear trim mount and to the wiper gear motor. For this purpose, you dismantle the rear door trim, in other words, the trunk lid.

The cladding is fixed with clips and bolts. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the fastening points. After dismantling the handles of unfamiliar glass, the clips snap out. The cover should be pulled out in the direction of the glass. You cannot disconnect the lock trim of unfamiliar locks, because the latch will break.

During the installation of the upholstery, it is recommended that our client change the clips (4 standard and 2 special). Installation of the cladding is carried out in the reverse order. The work must be done carefully, without sudden movements, because the wiring may break. If a gap forms, you will need to disconnect the wires from the central locking and the mechanism that controls the power windows.

Removing the power windows

Let's start with the front mechanisms

Before proceeding with repairs, it is necessary to dismantle the defective device. But in order to remove the window regulator, you will first have to remove the door trim.

So, for work we need:

key for 10
molar tape.

Now let's get down to business.

The first step is to lift the glass all the way and secure it at the highest point with tape.
Then, using a wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the glass in place (1 in the picture). Also, you need to unscrew the bolt of the inner handle of the lock.
The next step is to disconnect the device motor and wires (2 in the figure).
We unscrew all the nuts on the device (there are 11 of them in total) and remove the window regulator (2 in the figure).

The front window lifters have been removed, let's proceed to dismantling the rear ones (if the problem lies in them too).

Here we need:

two keys, 10 and 8
masking tape.

Just as in the case of the front window lifters, raise the glass all the way and secure it with tape.
Using a size 8 wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the mechanism.
Take a 10mm wrench and remove 2 bolts and 3 nuts.
Now it will be easy to pull the device out through the hole at the bottom of the rear door.

Dismantling has been completed. Carefully examine the condition of the device; if it cannot be repaired, replace it with a new one.

Instructions for removing the cladding on Kalina

The first three operations are performed the same way for all Lada Kalina doors. The exception is the trunk hatches of hatchback and station wagon cars, where the disassembly procedure is much simpler. Here's what to do:

By hand, unscrew and pull out the cap of the latch designed to lock the door lock from the inside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws holding the music system speaker.
Remove the speaker and disconnect the wires from it.

Unscrewing the blocker and acoustics

Attaching the speaker to the casing is incorrect. The further procedure of work differs depending on the location of the door that you are disassembling.

Front passenger door

Here the decorative panel is held on by 8 clips, 2 screws securing the internal handle and two self-tapping screws located under the plastic pocket. The algorithm for dismantling it is as follows:

Using an awl, carefully pry the edge of the plastic plug hiding the screw in the door handle and remove it. Remove the second screw cover in the same way.
Remove both handle screws.
Pull the door opening handle towards you, unscrew the fastening screw and remove the lever. After which you will be able to remove the entire handle.
Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the door card, under the plastic pocket.
Take a flat head screwdriver and pry the top right corner of the trim panel to disengage the first tab. Grab the casing with your fingers and release the remaining pistons manually.
After separating the panel from the door, disconnect the wires coming from the power window button. To do this, pry the connector tab with a screwdriver and pull the block out of the button block. Dismantling of the cladding has been completed.

Passenger side panel removed

Photo instructions for disassembling the door trim on a Lada

Self-tapping screws holding the door card from below

The plugs are pulled out using an awl

Screws holding the handle

The opening lever must be pulled back and the screw underneath must be unscrewed.

Once unscrewed, the handle can be removed

Removing the cladding by hand

Power window connector that needs to be disconnected

View of the casing with the handle removed

Nuances of disassembling the driver's door

On this side, the decorative panel is removed in the same order as on the passenger side. But due to small differences in the design, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

To make the trim easier to remove, you need to remove the plastic panel covering the rear-view mirror adjustment lever;
the first screw for securing the armrest is located under the plug, and the second is in the recess of the handle;
the door opening handle is located on top of the armrest and is removed after unscrewing the fastening screw.

The plastic socket for the mirror drive can be easily removed by hand. The socket for adjusting the rear view mirror is removed using a flat screwdriver, which is used to pry it up from below. On vehicles equipped with electrically controlled mirrors, there is no adjustment lever, and instead there is a plug on the panel.

On the driver's side, the screw is hidden in the armrest

Screw securing the lever for opening the door

Rear door trim

Here the upholstery is pressed to the door by 10 plastic clips and 2 screws securing the handle. The disassembly technology is as follows:

The first step is to remove the mechanical window lifter handle. Use an awl to pry up the plastic half-ring that secures the lever to the axle. Pull it out and remove the handle.
Pull out the 2 plastic plugs on the door handle and remove the fastening screws. After this, the element will be easily removed.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, pull out the lower far corner of the decorative panel and snap out the first piston.
Grab the door card with your hand and remove it, releasing the remaining clips along the contour. The casing has been successfully dismantled.

Scheme for dismantling the decorative panel

To remove the window lifter handle, you need to pull out the half ring. Otherwise, the upholstery on the doors of the second generation Lada Kalina car is removed in the same way, there are no differences.

This is what the removed rear door trim of Kalina looks like

Preparation for dismantling

To unscrew the fasteners and remove the door trim, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

screwdriver with cross slots;
long flat screwdriver;
a pointed tool, such as an awl.

Door disassembly tool

Since the door card of the Lada Kalina car is held on by plastic fasteners (otherwise known as clips, pistons), there is a warning regarding the working conditions. It is strictly not recommended to dismantle door trim in the cold, when the plastic becomes brittle and easily destroyed. Hence, there is a risk of breaking all the clips during the process of removing the decorative panel. Therefore, in winter, perform this operation in a heated garage or box.

In the summer, there are no requirements for premises; remove the casing even in the open air. There is only one recommendation: in windy weather it is better to drive the car into the garage, otherwise a lot of dust will be brought into the interior when the doors are open.

This is what the door card lock looks like

Carrying out preparatory work

For domestic cars, a flathead and Phillips screwdriver is often enough to get everything in order. In foreign-made cars, you will additionally need special keys TORX15/20/30. You also need to stock up on repair plastic clips

Beginners can break them through negligence, the risk is especially high in the cold season

Before carrying out work, you need to remove the terminal from the battery to protect the electrical wiring and devices from damage. It will be possible to preserve surfaces as much as possible from scratches if you install the screwdriver closer to the holders and bolts.

Simply wrapping the screwdriver with electrical tape or a clean cloth will help reduce the number of scratches.

Why do the doors fly off the casing?

Most often, the front or front door trims are removed to reach the interior cavities where the power windows are installed. Although there are other situations during the life of the vehicle when it is necessary to take off

frame:

install speakers built into door cards;
in case of failure of electric window buttons;
for disassembling glass for tinting or replacement;
For repairing or lubricating windows;
Replace worn or scratched panels over many years of machine use.

Lada Kalina entrance door maps
It is also impossible to do without removing the cladding during body work, when you need to weld rotten elements, update a paint machine, or carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

The note. Many motorists remove the gasket to add additional vibration and sound insulation to the body.

Preparing for disassembly

Unscrew the fastenings and take off

Door trim, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

a screwdriver with slots in the shape of a cross;
long flat screwdriver;
sharpened tool, for example, sewing.

Door disassembly tool

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Since the door card of the Lada Kalina car rests on plastic clips (otherwise - clips, plugs), there are warnings about operating conditions.

It is strongly not recommended to disassemble door freezers when the plastic becomes brittle and breaks easily. Therefore, there is a risk of breaking all the clips when removing the decorative panel.

Replacement door handle Lada Kalina

disassembling and gluing vinyl boots Kalina

2 hatchbacks.

There are no summer residency requirements; remove skin even outdoors. There is only one recommendation: in windy weather it is better to drive the car into the garage, otherwise it will cause a lot of dust when opening the doors.

This is what a door card latch looks like

Advice. In cars over 5 years old, the plastic from which the locks are made dries out and becomes brittle. Separating the Trim from the Door With a machine like this, you're bound to ruin some of the clips.

Instructions for removing cladding in Kalina

The first three operations are the same for all Lada Kalina doors. The exception is the hatchback hatch in hatchback and station wagon bodies; the disassembly procedure is much simpler. How to remove the front and rear door trim on a Kalina Lada. Here's what to do:

Unscrew and remove the lock cover designed to lock the door lock inside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws that secure the music speaker.
Remove the speaker and disconnect it from the speaker.

Unlocking the blocker and acoustics

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Advice. The acoustics can be attached either to the door card itself or to the metal frame of the door. If, after removing the speaker, you stick to the first option, it is better to repeat it when installing the mounts, drilling holes for the screws. The acoustics should be installed on the door, not on the trim.

Front passenger door

Here the decorative panel is supported by 8 clips, 2 screws for attaching the internal handle and two screws located under the plastic pocket. The disassembly algorithm looks like this:

Carefully support the awl with the edge of the plastic plug that covers the screw in the door handle, gave it away. Remove the screw with the second cover in the same way. Remove both handle screws. Pull the handle to open the door, turn the locking screw and remove the lever

Then succeed in taking off the whole pen. Remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the door card, under the plastic pocket. Take a flathead screwdriver and support the top right corner of the trim panel to close the first latch. Grasp the skin with your fingers and remove the rest of the cap by hand. After removing the panel from the door, disconnect the wires coming from the power button. how to remove the door trim from the viburnum on the carriage door (rear). To do this, turn the screwdriver on the protrusion of the connector and pull the block out of the button assembly. Dismantling of the cladding is completed.

Instructions for removing the cladding on Kalina

By hand, unscrew and pull out the cap of the latch designed to lock the door lock from the inside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws holding the music system speaker.
Remove the speaker and disconnect the wires from it.

Unscrewing the blocker and acoustics

Advice. The acoustics can be attached either to the door card itself or to the metal door frame. If, after removing the speaker, you observe the first option, then during assembly it is better to redo the fasteners by drilling holes for self-tapping screws. The acoustics should be mounted to the door, not to the upholstery.

Attaching the speaker to the casing is wrong

The further procedure of work differs depending on the location of the door that you are disassembling.

Front passenger door

Here the decorative panel is held on by 8 clips, 2 screws securing the internal handle and two self-tapping screws located under the plastic pocket. The algorithm for dismantling it is as follows:

Using an awl, carefully pry the edge of the plastic plug hiding the screw in the door handle and remove it. Remove the second screw cover in the same way.
Remove both handle screws.
Pull the door opening handle towards you, unscrew the fastening screw and remove the lever. After which you will be able to remove the entire handle.
Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the door card, under the plastic pocket.
Take a flat head screwdriver and pry the top right corner of the trim panel to disengage the first tab. Grab the casing with your fingers and release the remaining pistons manually.
After separating the panel from the door, disconnect the wires coming from the power window button. To do this, pry the connector tab with a screwdriver and pull the block out of the button block. Dismantling of the cladding has been completed.

Passenger side panel removed

Advice. When prying up the edge of the door card with a flat-head screwdriver, you should place a rag under it so as not to scratch the paintwork on the inside.

Nuances of disassembling the driver's door

On this side, the decorative panel is removed in the same order as on the passenger side. But due to small differences in the design, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

To make the trim easier to remove, you need to remove the plastic panel covering the rear-view mirror adjustment lever;
the first screw for securing the armrest is located under the plug, and the second is in the recess of the handle;
the door opening handle is located on top of the armrest and is removed after unscrewing the fastening screw.

The plastic socket for the mirror drive can be easily removed by hand

The panel on the rear view mirror adjustment is removed using a flat screwdriver, which is used to pry it off from below. On vehicles equipped with electrically controlled mirrors, there is no adjustment lever, and instead there is a plug on the panel.

On the driver's side, the screw is hidden in the armrest

Reference. Some drivers unknowingly try to pick out this plug to disconnect the panel. The action is useless, since the element is easily removed by hand, but unsuccessful attempts leave unsightly scratches on it.

Screw securing the lever for opening the door

Rear door trim

Here the upholstery is pressed to the door by 10 plastic clips and 2 screws securing the handle. The disassembly technology is as follows:

The first step is to remove the mechanical window lifter handle. Use an awl to pry up the plastic half-ring that secures the lever to the axle. Pull it out and remove the handle.
Pull out the 2 plastic plugs on the door handle and remove the fastening screws. After this, the element will be easily removed.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, pull out the lower far corner of the decorative panel and snap out the first piston.
Grab the door card with your hand and remove it, releasing the remaining clips along the contour. The casing has been successfully dismantled.

Scheme for dismantling the decorative panel

Note

Please note that the opening handle lever on Kalina 1 will have to be unscrewed and removed, but on Kalina 2 there is no need to remove it, since it is screwed directly to the door and is in no way connected to the decorative panel

To remove the window lifter handle, you need to pull out the half ring

Otherwise, the upholstery on the doors of the second generation Lada Kalina car is removed in the same way, there are no differences.

How to disassemble the trunk lid on a hatchback and station wagon

The interior lining of the Kalina rear hatch in hatchback and station wagon bodies is held on by 4 regular clips, 2 special black plastic fasteners (installed after installing the panel) and 2 screws securing the handle. In addition, the panel is hooked onto a metal protrusion by two brackets located in the lock area.

Handle screws

The procedure for removing the upholstery is as follows:

Unscrew the 2 screws with a Phillips screwdriver and disconnect the handle.
Place a flathead screwdriver under the glass side of the panel and unlock the lock. Release the remaining latches with your hands, pulling the panel along the contour.
Remove the trim, lastly releasing the staples near the trunk lock.

The panel is detached from the glass side

The mounting brackets for the trunk hatch are located near the lock.

As practice shows, it takes no more than 10 minutes to remove the trim of one door of a Lada Kalina car. The operation is really simple, but if you lack experience, it is better not to rush, so as not to break all the fasteners and scratch the plastic facing panels. The door cards are installed in the reverse order: first, the clips are snapped on, then the handles are installed, and finally the plastic elements are attached. Don't forget to connect the connectors to the power window buttons.

Removing the rear door trim

Regardless of the body configuration or year of manufacture, reinstallation and repair of locks and handles remains the same for hatchbacks and station wagons. The order of work differs when repairing the front and rear elements. The arrangement of the parts is considered simple, so it takes about 30 minutes to reinstall one element. For independent work you will need the following tool:

crosshead screwdriver;
flat screwdriver;
knob;
head at 8;
extension;
sharp knife or awl.

Front door

The procedure for performing the work necessary to remove and install the outer front door lever on the Lada Kalina:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Remove the inner trim of the outside rear view mirror by first prying it off with a screwdriver.
Unscrew the locking lock.
Using an awl or sharp knife, remove the plug.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the armrest mounting screw.
Pull the inner handle of the lock and unscrew the screw using a Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the inner lever.
Unscrew the armrest mounting bolt located in the niche.
Unscrew the two pocket screws.
Wrap a flat-head screwdriver in a rag and insert it between the trim and the door frame. Carefully pulling the screwdriver towards you, unclip the first clip that holds the trim. Also unclip all the other clips, there are 8 of them in total.
Carefully remove the trim from the iron door frame.
Disconnect the two wire connectors from the power window assembly.
Move the trim to the side.
Disassemble the lower link of the outer door handle drive.
Unscrew the handle fastening bolt located at the end; for this, use a 8-mm socket and a knob.
Disconnect the outer arm drive upper link.
Remove the faulty part and replace it with a new one.

Backdoor

Step-by-step repair of the rear door handle:

Unscrew the locking lock.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, press out and move the window regulator lever lock to the side.
Remove the retainer and window lift lever from the shaft.
Unscrew the fastening screw by pulling the lock handle.
Remove the lock handle.
Remove the two plugs using a sharp knife.
Unscrew the two fastening screws that were under the plugs and remove the inner handle of the lock.
Wrap a flathead screwdriver with a rag or electrical tape. Slide it between the door trim and frame.
While pulling back the screwdriver, unclip the clips located along the perimeter of the casing one by one.
Remove the casing and set it aside.
Using a socket 8, a wrench, unscrew the nut that holds the handle on the inside of the door.
Using the same head with a knob, remove the bolt, which is located at the end.
Remove the old faulty part and replace it with a new one.

Lubricate all moving parts of the lock and reassemble in reverse order.

All of the above types of work can be done with your own hands, without resorting to expensive car service services. For repairs, you only need to buy a new handle and a set of clips for the door trim.

Unscrew the lock button by hand

Using a screwdriver with a thin blade, pry up two decorative plugs and remove them from the holes in the armrest handle.

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the armrest handle

Remove the handle

Pull out the latch and remove it.

Remove the handle and socket from the shaft.

Using a screwdriver, placing soft material under it, we press the lower edge of the upholstery away from the inner door panel, overcoming the resistance of the pistons.

It’s better to start from the bottom, gradually moving the screwdriver around the entire perimeter of the upholstery.

Removing the rear door trim

Install the rear door trim in the reverse order.

Remove the rear door trim.

We lower the glass so that we can unscrew the screw securing the decorative glass trim.

Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry up the edge of the inner glass seal.

We lift the seal up, applying the necessary force, and remove the inner glass seal from the inner door panel.

Having bent the edge of the seal, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the decorative glass trim.

Remove the lower part of the seal from the door.

We raise the glass.

Using a 8mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the glass guide at the end of the door.

We take out the guide. Roll down the window

From the outside of the door, use a slotted screwdriver to pry up the decorative retainer of the glass seal.

We check the quality of work

As you can see, this work is not at all difficult, it can be done independently, saving a lot of money on a car service, which will charge you a tidy sum for it.

In addition, since we had to remove the door trim, we can also carry out sound insulation, which in the Lada Kalina is also not at the highest level.

At the end, a small bonus on how to make the power windows work without the ignition.

We wish you a good journey and good luck!

Damage to the side windows of doors (sliding doors) is a fairly rare occurrence, and sometimes, even with serious side impacts, the windows remain intact. On a Lada Granta car, the side windows can be changed without any problems, and to perform this repair you will need the following tool:

Flat blade screwdriver
8 mm head
Ratchet
Extension

Advantages and disadvantages of updating

The main advantage of replacing door trim is a significant change in the interior, since European trim makes the interior more attractive. At the same time, owners of an expensive audio system will have the opportunity to install larger speakers in the opening for audio preparation. In addition, the fabric covering is reupholstered separately; the owner does not have to completely disassemble the door.

The main disadvantage of installing modern trim on a VAZ 2110 is the need to modernize the car's interior, since the new panels do not provide openings in the doors for ventilation. High-quality European cladding is not cheap, and more affordable panels are made too sloppily in the edge parts, where there are almost always noticeable flaws made during production.

If you want to replace worn upholstery with a new one, you must remember that although this process is simple, it takes a lot of time. The work is small and voluminous, since you will have to upholster each of the doors separately. You should decide to install Euro upholstery only if you are not bothered by the cost of the kit and the amount of time that needs to be spent on its installation.

Approximate cost of repair work on the Kalina body at a service station

Here are the prices offered today at various repair services.

In principle, the prices are not that low. It would be better to learn how to replace (which is much easier) or repair it yourself. We are not talking about competently taking body dimensions to compare geometry. This, of course, should be done only with high-quality equipment, which is almost impossible to provide in a garage workshop.

On the other hand, useful information about the geometric dimensions of Kalina’s bodies will be presented below, which will make it possible to remove them yourself using a regular tape measure.

Watch a video about problem areas of the Lada Kalina body

How to remove the rear and other door trim on a Lada Kalina

The car door trim, officially called the door panel, is most often removed to access the window lift mechanism for repair or lubrication. Much less often, this operation is carried out to install speakers, install noise and vibration insulation, replace facing panels or perform body work. But in any case, sooner or later, almost every car owner has to dismantle the door trim. At the same time, many of them, without resorting to the services of a service station, do it themselves, since this operation is quite simple and can be done by most car enthusiasts.

Dismantling the rear and other door trim on the Lada Kalina

When removing the trim, the division into front and rear doors is not accidental. Although at first the process is identical for them, then some differences begin to appear.

What tools will you need?

To unscrew the fasteners and remove the door trim, simple tools are required in the form of:

Phillips screwdriver;
flat and long screwdriver;
sharp awl.

Step-by-step description of the process

The first three stages are similar for both front and rear doors:

Use your fingers to unscrew and remove the latch that locks the door lock from the inside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, you need to unscrew the 4 screws that secure the audio speaker.
Then it should be removed and the wires disconnected from it. Removing the door lock, speaker and disconnecting them is mandatory for all doors

To dismantle the trim on the front right door, it is necessary to free the decorative panel from 8 clips, 2 mounting screws holding the inner handle, and 2 screws located under the plastic pocket. Then follows:

Using an awl, pry off the plastic plug under which there is a screw in the door handle. In a similar way, remove the second plug and unscrew both screws (3).
Pull the handle that opens the doors towards you, then unscrew the fastening screw, remove the lever and then the entire handle.
Under the plastic pocket at the bottom of the door, unscrew the 2 screws (2).
Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry the lower right part of the decorative panel (5) to disengage the first latch. Holding the panel in your hand, use your other hand to release the remaining latches.
Separating the panel from the door, disconnect the wiring connecting the electric lift button and its mechanism. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry off the detachable tongue and remove the block from the button block. To remove the front passenger door trim, you need to remove several fasteners

The decorative panel from the driver's door is removed in the same way as from the passenger door. However, there are some minor differences:

To make it easier to remove the trim, it is necessary to remove the plastic panel that covers the rear view mirror adjustment lever. On the driver's door, among other things, it is necessary to remove the rear view mirror panel
One of the armrest mounting screws should be found under the plug (2), while the second (4) is recessed into the recess of the handle.
The door opening handle is located above the armrest and is detached by unscrewing the fastening screw.
The plastic panel can be easily removed with your fingers.
The rear view mirror adjustment panel is removed using a flat screwdriver, prying it up from below. If the car is equipped with electric mirror control, then the adjustment lever is replaced with a plug. Here you need to release these fasteners

Removing the trim from the rear doors, which is secured with 10 plastic clips and 2 mounting screws, proceeds as follows:

First of all, the handle of the mechanical window lifter (7) is dismantled, for which the plastic half-ring (5) is pryed off with an awl, which fixes the lever on the axis. After removing the half ring, the handle can be easily removed.
2 plastic plugs are removed from the door handle (3) and the fastening screws (1) are unscrewed.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, the lower far part of the decorative panel is pulled out, after which the first latch is snapped out.
Then the remaining clips are released from the panel supported by one hand with the other. To remove the upholstery on the rear doors, you need to release these fasteners

Why is the door trim removed?

Most often, the trim of the rear or front doors is dismantled in order to get to the internal cavities where the window lift mechanisms are installed. Although during the entire period of operation of the car there are other situations when it is necessary to remove the trim:

for installing acoustic speakers built into door cards;
in case of failure of the electric window lift buttons;
for dismantling glass for the purpose of tinting or replacement;
to repair or lubricate window lift mechanisms;
to replace facing panels that have become worn or scratched over the years of use of the machine.

Front door cards Lada Kalina

It is also necessary to remove the trim during body work, when it is necessary to weld rotten elements, renew the car’s paintwork, or carry out anti-corrosion treatment.

Lada Kalina rear door trim

Removing the trim from the driver's door

The algorithm for disassembling the driver's door structure is similar, but there are some subtleties of this process:

First, the plugs are removed from all fasteners. They are pryed off with a screwdriver.
The panel plastic will be easier to remove if you first unscrew the fragment for adjusting the mirror structures. Unlike the passenger door, the driver's door has one screw. It is located under the plug.
The opening mechanism is removed last.
If your car is equipped with electric mirrors with remote control, then to remove the rear view adjustment panel you need to unscrew the screw located at the bottom.

Basic information about LADA Kalina

LADA Kalina has been produced since 2004; production of the popular second-generation car began in 2013. Kalina-1 is available in three body types: hatchback (model 1119), sedan (model 1118), station wagon (model 1117). There are cars available with petrol engines of three modifications: a 1.4-liter 16-valve engine with a power of 89 hp. s., 1.6-liter 8-valve engine producing 81 hp. s., 1.6-liter 16-valve engine producing 98 hp. With. The LADA Kalina-1 has only a manual transmission with five gears. The front axle has a classic MacPherson suspension, the rear axle has a beam with stabilizer, springs, and shock absorbers.

Typical faults of LADA Kalina-1

Significant malfunctions with Kalina rarely occur, but there are a lot of various undesirable trifles. The car’s clutch is not very reliable and has an impressive service life, regardless of the type of engine, so it can malfunction after 40-50 thousand kilometers. The main source of malfunction is a broken clutch disc.

You need to constantly monitor the oil level in the engine - sometimes it leaks through the gaskets or burns through the piston rings. On the instrument panel there is only an oil pressure warning light, but there is no dial indicator. If the indicator lights up all the time, there is a possibility that the crankshaft is knocking.

A common malfunction of VAZ gearboxes is increased noise. It is difficult to get rid of the humming of the gearbox; sometimes neither replacing the bearings nor refilling with first-class transmission oil comes to the rescue. The transmission is noisy even in new cars, because of this the Volzhsky Automobile Plant has repeatedly completed the transmission.

A problematic element since the days of the VAZ 2108 and VAZ 2109 has been the thermostat in the engine, moreover, the valve in the thermostat was capable of jamming in any position. It's annoying when the engine doesn't heat up to the required operating temperature, but if the engine overheats, it's more problematic.

Electrical problems on LADA Kalina appear mainly of three types:

the ignition module is often damaged;
very soon the bearings and diode bridge “die”;
The window lift cable on the driver's door breaks.

When the ignition coil sparks, the first and fourth cylinders or the second and third cylinders stop functioning. The ESP cable breaks when it falls off the guides.

The main source of cracking noise in outer CV joints is insufficient lubrication; At the factory, in order to save money, they put it in sparingly. The consequence of this is severe wear of the hinges, and as a result, the “grenade” needs to be replaced.

A broken timing belt is a very annoying problem. And if on the 8-valve engine 21114 it is possible to change the belt drive and move on, then on engines 11194 or 21126 the valves bend from the oncoming push from the pistons, repairs will be quite expensive. In addition, a break can occur through a jammed water pump, because of this, if the pump begins to make noise, it must be replaced immediately.

Instructions for removing the cladding on Kalina

By hand, unscrew and pull out the cap of the latch designed to lock the door lock from the inside. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the 4 screws holding the music system speaker. Remove the speaker and disconnect the wires from it.

Unscrewing the blocker and acoustics

Attaching the speaker to the casing is wrong

The further procedure of work differs depending on the location of the door that you are disassembling.

Front passenger door

Here the decorative panel is held on by 8 clips, 2 screws securing the internal handle and two self-tapping screws located under the plastic pocket. The algorithm for dismantling it is as follows:

Using an awl, carefully pry the edge of the plastic plug hiding the screw in the door handle and remove it. Remove the second screw cover in the same way. Remove both handle screws. Pull the door opening handle towards you, unscrew the fastening screw and remove the lever. After which you will be able to remove the entire handle. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the door card, under the plastic pocket. Take a flat head screwdriver and pry the top right corner of the trim panel to disengage the first tab. Grab the casing with your fingers and release the remaining pistons manually. After separating the panel from the door, disconnect the wires coming from the power window button. To do this, pry the connector tab with a screwdriver and pull the block out of the button block. Dismantling of the cladding has been completed.

Passenger side panel removed

Advice. When prying up the edge of the door card with a flat-head screwdriver, you should place a rag under it so as not to scratch the paintwork on the inside.

Nuances of disassembling the driver's door

On this side, the decorative panel is removed in the same order as on the passenger side. But due to small differences in the design, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

To make the trim easier to remove, you need to remove the plastic panel covering the rear-view mirror adjustment lever;
the first screw for securing the armrest is located under the plug, and the second is in the recess of the handle;
the door opening handle is located on top of the armrest and is removed after unscrewing the fastening screw.

The plastic socket for the mirror drive can be easily removed by hand

On the driver's side, the screw is hidden in the armrest

Screw securing the lever for opening the door

Rear door trim

Here the upholstery is pressed to the door by 10 plastic clips and 2 screws securing the handle. The disassembly technology is as follows:

The first step is to remove the mechanical window lifter handle. Use an awl to pry up the plastic half-ring that secures the lever to the axle. Pull it out and remove the handle.
Pull out the 2 plastic plugs on the door handle and remove the fastening screws. After this, the element will be easily removed.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, pull out the lower far corner of the decorative panel and snap out the first piston.
Grab the door card with your hand and remove it, releasing the remaining clips along the contour. The casing has been successfully dismantled.

Scheme for dismantling the decorative panel

Note

To remove the window lifter handle, you need to pull out the half ring

Otherwise, the upholstery on the doors of the second generation Lada Kalina car is removed in the same way, there are no differences.

This is what the removed rear door trim of Kalina looks like

The procedure for removing glass and installing a new one

I think that everyone already knows - the design of the side glass fastening on the Grant is the same as on the Kalina. Therefore, the differences in performing this work will be minimal. The only thing that will be different is the removal of the door trim, but I don’t think that this procedure will cause any problems for Granta owners.

Video review of glass replacement on Grant

Of course, the most visual repair guide is a video review, in which everything is clearly visible and understandable.

Well, below the whole process is discussed in the form of a photo report, in case someone has problems with the video review.

So, when the upholstery is removed, you need to pry off the seals (velvet covers) on one side with a flat screwdriver:

And with the internal one in the same way:

Of course, it is possible that when these rubber seals are dismantled, they will simply become unusable, but you can, if you wish, leave them intact if you try!

After this, with the glass raised all the way, unscrew all the bolts securing the glass to the window regulator. There are four such bolts in total, as is clearly shown in the photo below.

They are clearly visible through special technological holes. Now you can unscrew all 4 mounting bolts. But first, be sure to secure the glass so that it does not fall when it is completely released.

After this, you can lower the front part of the glass down, which is clearly visible in the photo.

And we try to pull the glass out of the door using the rear upper corner, acting extremely carefully so as not to damage the glass, otherwise it will shatter into small pieces.

The result of the work done is shown below. The entire procedure should not take more than half an hour, especially if you always have the necessary tool at hand.

If the new glass does not have special clips onto which the window lift holders are then screwed, then they must be removed from the old glass and try to be carefully installed on the new one. The main thing here is the tight fixation of these strips on the glass, so that there are no problems when lowering and raising the glass in the future.

The price for Granta starts from 900 rubles, if we consider the original glass from the BOR company with a greenish tint.

Lada Kalina, the body of which is of great interest to motorists today, is considered one of the best creations of the Togliatti plant. Kalina is not a separate model, but a whole family of Russian small-class cars produced since 2004. We will find out from the article how much it costs to repair body parts, whether the body of this car can be replaced, and what are the features of its design.

Sheathing installation

The fabric sheet should be removed after removing the fasteners on the back. Actions step by step:

A new piece of material is attached. First, the outer side of the panel is lubricated, a cloth is applied and smoothed well.
The edges are fixed at the back with hardware. It is better to use a construction stapler. The panel must be left alone for an hour so that the glue sets and the material spreads across the card.
If there is a car radio, then a niche is cut for the speaker. At the back, around the rim of the hole, a special plate is attached to which the column is attached.
The lower fixing pins are attached and the electrical wiring is connected.
After the handle is in place and secured with bolts, the top fasteners are fastened.
The overhead fragment is installed, the mounting screws are screwed in and the plugs are attached.

We must not forget about the mandatory treatment of internal elements with an anti-corrosion agent and silicone lubricant; they are performed as a preventative measure. It is advisable to carry out these actions at least twice a year: before the onset of winter and in the spring.

Gearbox lever rattling

For LADA Kalina, a typical malfunction is rattling in the area of the gearshift lever, which mainly becomes noticeable when the engine is running at speeds of about 3000. The source of the side sound is the bushing, which is made a little thicker than necessary, and because of this, a gap appears in the mount. To resolve this problem you need to do the following:

remove the handle cover, which is attached with latches;
using two 13mm wrenches, unscrew the nut and bolt;
remove washers and bushings;
to eliminate rattling, the bushing in the middle needs to be slightly sharpened in width or the mount should be lubricated with sealant;
Having done this, mount everything back. The sealant does not help out every time, but if you sharpen the bushing by 0.3 mm, the result is guaranteed.

It’s safe to say that repairing a Lada Kalina car yourself is not so scary. Every car enthusiast has the opportunity to eliminate minor malfunctions of this car. You just need to believe in yourself, follow our advice and everything will work out!

Seven tuning
Tuning VAZ 2108

Straightening tool

Body parts can be restored either using the simplest tools or using professional tools and stands. Simple tools for restoring body geometry include:

hammers and mallets of various types;
all kinds of supports (anvils, metal bars of all sizes);
special spoons for pulling out metal:
levers and hooks;
grinding tool.

There is also more complex equipment, as well as entire sets of tools. A standard set of straightening equipment usually contains:

hydraulic pumps and cylinders;
nozzles of all shapes;
impact plates;
adapters.

In professional body repair, rack-and-pinion platform stocks and special stands are used. Using special equipment, when restoring the geometry of a body element, the impact on damaged areas is achieved with greater force and precision, the metal is straightened faster and with less labor costs, and the straightening is of a higher quality.

Adjusting the spring and power steering

Very often, the cause of a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel is a weakening of the pressure spring. It provides the required force for pressing the steering rack gear against the main shaft gear, which is set at the factory by adjusting and fixing the spring. As the vehicle is used, the spring loses its elasticity and relaxes.

In order to increase the pressing force of the spring, it is necessary to tighten it, which is done after disconnecting the steering mechanism, but without removing the steering rack. Repairing the steering rack in this case consists of setting the required gap between the rack and the shaft gear. The steering rack is installed in the middle position and is secured against movement.

The rubber plug is removed, and the indicator probe is placed in the hole of the stop adjusting nut so that it comes into contact with the rack stop. It is better to use a dial indicator. Then, turning the gear shaft that pushes the stop, the indicator measures the size of the stop's movement. The length of movement should not exceed 0.05 mm.

If this value is exceeded, it is eliminated by turning the adjusting nut. The steering rack is fixed in the position corresponding to the required clearance, and the ease of rotation of the pinion shaft is checked within the entire possible movement of the rack.

The adjustment nut is rotated using a special wrench for adjusting VAZ steering racks. It is not recommended to tighten the nut too much, which can have a negative effect when turning the steering wheel at maximum speed. If there is play when turning the steering wheel, the spring can be tightened by practically selecting the correct force.

In this case, initially the adjusting nut is turned by 20-25°, and the presence of knocking is checked when the rack is turned. If the noise is not eliminated, then tighten the nut again by 10-15°, and so on until the knocking noise is eliminated. If tightening the spring does not help, the steering rack needs to be repaired.

Adjusting Kalina's electric power steering is best done after removing the steering rack, but it can be done without dismantling with some inconvenience. The car is placed on the repair pit so that from below there is access to the mounting of the front part of the amplifier.

The clamping nut is tightened by turning clockwise from below, and when tightening the nut from above, respectively, counterclockwise. For the purpose of prevention, you should check the condition of the oil seal, since when the steering wheel is turned too much, the oil seals quickly wear out. At the same time, all elements are lubricated, especially the steering rod boots.

Basic information about LADA Kalina

Typical faults of LADA Kalina-1

Electrical problems on LADA Kalina appear mainly of three types:

the ignition module is often damaged;
very soon the bearings and diode bridge “die”;
The window lift cable on the driver's door breaks.

When the ignition coil sparks, the first and fourth cylinders or the second and third cylinders stop functioning. The ESP cable breaks when it falls off the guides.

Changing the front door trim

To dismantle the plastic door card, you need to prepare a Phillips and flathead screwdriver, as well as a set of clips that hold the part in place. For the driver's door, the actions will be as follows:

All the elements named above are indicated in the following figure:

Front left door of Kalina-2

For the right door you need to follow a different sequence:

All that remains is to wish you success. Installation is carried out in reverse order. All designations related to the list are indicated in the photo below.

Front right door of Kalina-2

Step-by-step instruction

1. First, unscrew the door lock lock cap from inside the passenger compartment.
We twist it to the left as usual. 2. Using a flat-head screwdriver, pry out two plastic plugs. Pick carefully.

3. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws under the plugs that were removed in the previous step of work.

4. After unscrewing the screws, pull (as when opening a door) the door opening handle and unscrew the screw under it.

5. After unscrewing, remove the door opening handle and the main handle.

6. Unscrew the two screws securing the trim pocket.

7. If you have speakers installed in the doors and they are screwed to the metal frame of the door, you need to unscrew them.

8. Now the casing is held in place only by latches. We start opening the latches from the lower right corner and go up.

You can see everything in the photo below.

9. Move the trim a little to the side and disconnect the wire that goes to the window lift button.

10. All cladding is free, you can carry out the planned work.

The difference on the driver's door is that there is a different handle for closing the door. The only difference in removing the casing is in two screws, which are shown below.

Door straightening: main points

In many cases, to straighten out most of the dents, you will need to remove the upholstery and press out the dent from the inside. The metal will play and fall into place. The more the metal is stretched, the more effort must be applied to completely return the surface to its previous shape.

Small irregularities are tapped with a hammer and various mandrels. Then they are sanded down to metal with a grinder (grinder), and the remaining dents are pulled out with a spotter. If you don’t have such a tool at hand, you can do it the old fashioned way - weld the hinges with a semi-automatic machine and pull them with a reverse hammer.

Straightening the door does not end there, because the work must be completed. After leveling the metal, the door needs to be puttied. In the event that small irregularities remain, you can use putty with fiberglass, as it perfectly fills the recesses and at the same time gives minimal shrinkage.

Next you need to use a universal putty and a finishing putty. It is important to understand that the less putty there is on a part, the less likely it is that it will subsequently peel off . Then the part is primed, and the next day it is processed and painted. If necessary, it is polished after the paint or varnish has dried.

At the end, all the door accessories are installed in place, and the molding is glued with double tape (it is better to buy a branded one, for example “3M”).

The result of door straightening depends not so much on the quality of the tools, but on the skills of the master. In general, modern car straightening allows you to achieve colossal results.

The nuances of door straightening

Smooth dents without creases or folds have the least consequences. We can say that the car owner is lucky if the paintwork is not damaged. But such delicate damage can only be caused by relatively “soft” objects.

The dent on the door can be very large, and there is also a so-called “cracker”. In this case, rows of points are placed by welding on the back side of the door with an interval of 15-20 mm. The dots can also be placed on the front side, but then after straightening they will have to be ground off.

Creases or folds are classified as complex damage. It is impossible to straighten them by simply squeezing them out. Most likely, the door will have to be removed and worked on on the slipway. In the most difficult cases, opening the door is required. On the slipway, the geometry of the part is restored using hydraulics.

You can straighten the creases using a special device - a spotter and a reverse hammer, which is hooked onto washers specially welded to the casing. To straighten the door from the inside, you may need to cut out part of its frame, which is then welded back.

The method that involves working with a reverse hammer is traditional. But after such straightening, small bumps may remain on the surface of the door. You can get rid of them with a metal plane followed by processing with an angle grinder with a flap disc.

When a dent is formed after an impact at an angle close to a straight line, the door often moves inward a little. If the blow is strong, then it may not close at all. This is due to the pull of the hinge on the door itself. You can drown them by hitting them with a hammer through a wooden spacer.

Many experts believe that for complex dents without creases, preference should be given to straightening from the outside of the door. In this case, it is easier to control the process, which means that leveling will occur faster. To make it easier to attach the rods, use a spotter or welding washers, welded with low current, so that they can then be easily rolled up.

If the door is straightened from the back side, then the most important point in this case is to control the force of impact. To avoid cutting the door frame, some straighteners resort to the pneumatic method. It involves placing an inflatable cushion (soccer ball) opposite the dent, which, when inflated, will gently straighten the doors.

The decision to choose a straightening method is always made after examining the dent and depends on its characteristics. Sometimes a door dent can be straightened out with a regular pry bar, which is pressed against the stiffener on the reverse side. In this case, you can control the straightening by installing a large mirror opposite the door.

After straightening the door, there is no need to rush into painting. First you need to install it in place and check the gaps. They should be uniform around the perimeter. You should take similar gaps on the door on the opposite side as a sample.

How to dismantle the lock to replace the cylinder?

You can gain access to the lock mechanism by removing the plastic upholstery inside the luggage compartment. This protective component is fixed by means of two bolts, which are located in the places where the special handle is installed. They are also called latch caps. They are pryed off with an ordinary screwdriver.

New Lada: DIY diagnostics of Lada Kalina 1, 2

Structurally, the trunk lock in the Lada Kalina is made of two parts, regardless of the body type, hatchback, station wagon or sedan. They are presented in the form of a cylinder and the unlocking mechanism itself. If it is necessary to replace the trunk lock, then the dismantling of these components is carried out in a separate order.

When you only need to replace the larva, this can be done in a few simple steps. Here you will need a screwdriver and a socket.

If there is a need to replace the lock itself, the operation becomes a little more complicated due to the need for additional actions.

As you can see, removing the trunk lock is not difficult.