Sound insulation of the engine compartment from the engine side

As drivers say, VAZ cars have never been distinguished by a high level of comfort. The company has always produced utilitarian cars. "Lada-Kalina" is one of such cars. Owners, after using these machines for some time, notice shortcomings. Some of them are a high level of noise when moving, “crickets”, and the noise of plastic panels when moving. Some drivers deal with such problems with the help of music, but this is not the best solution. In this situation, the soundproofing of the Kalina will help. After simple operations, the car will become noticeably quieter and more comfortable.

Why is sound insulation needed in a Kalina car?

Before you start noise reduction work, it’s worth thinking about what you need as a result. Some owners care about the sound quality of the radio, others’ goal is to get rid of various “crickets” and squeaks, while others simply need a more comfortable interior. Why is this necessary? The selection of materials for the process depends on the purpose.

You need to remember that if you do the soundproofing of the Kalina yourself, you shouldn’t do everything at once. The process is divided into several parts - this is important if you have a limited budget. Usually work starts with the doors, and then the floor, trunk, engine compartment, and sometimes the roof are insulated.

General information

In fact, the engine compartment is the most problematic part in terms of sound insulation. Often, to get to the required place it is necessary to disassemble the entire torpedo, or even more. But it’s worth it, because after the work is done, the acoustic comfort in the cabin will improve several times.

Although the work is labor-intensive, with the right approach you can complete it quickly enough. In fact, there is nothing complicated here: the main thing is to follow some simple rules and everything will definitely work out. This guide will be useful for those who have no sound insulation in the engine compartment or leave much to be desired. Much depends on how the engine operates. Excessive wear of rubbing metal parts leads to additional noise and this must be understood. In such cases, it is not the “Shumka” of the internal combustion engine that is needed, but its repair.

Vibroplast Silver

This is a fairly flexible and elastic material - it absorbs vibrations. It consists of self-adhesive sheets with aluminum foil. They are marked in the form of 5x5 cm squares - this simplifies the cutting of a single sheet.

This vibroplast does not absorb moisture and withstands environmental influences. Additionally, it has high anti-corrosion properties and sealant characteristics. Another advantage of this material is its easy installation in areas with difficult terrain. It does not need to be heated to install. The sheet thickness is 2 mm. This material is recommended for use on the floor in the cabin. It is no less relevant on doors, for vibration isolation of the roof, side parts of the body, on the hood and trunk.

Where is the noise coming from?

First you need to inspect the motor (listen to its operation) to understand where the increased noise comes from:

• The most common sources of excess noise are chains or their tensioners (if the engine has them)
• A worn out fuel pump makes a loud noise
• The engine may be noisy due to poor quality fuel
• Also check the integrity of the engine mounts
• Listen and check the condition of the gearbox
• It is worth paying attention to many other engine elements that can indirectly make an additional contribution to the overall noise
• Among them, the exhaust pipe (and the entire system) of the car deserves a separate topic, and specifically burnt-out mufflers or direct flow pipes
• Why do you think we spend so much time on the technical condition of your car?
• This is because without eliminating the sources of additional noise, subsequent fuss with the sound insulation of the car will be simply pointless
• The main path for the spread of noise from the engine is cracks, loud exhaust, vibration, uneven operation of the cylinders, malfunction of the fuel pump
• When inspecting the engine compartment, you should pay attention to the cracks (holes) and holes leading into the interior
• Especially check the standard plugs and bushings
• Because they usually forget to put them in place when installing amplifiers or stretching wires for an alarm siren
• Close the hood and strongly pull the hood curtains (near the windshield), there should be no play
• Don't neglect this simple check
• We often encounter this problem even on new BMW cars.
• When something squeaks by ear, such a noise is often mistaken for a “dead” shock absorber
• After this, you should carefully inspect the front wheel arches in order to detect holes in the wheel arches
• Surely you will find them
• Through such holes, for example, brake hoses can exit.
• After this, go to the front doors of the car, then open the door, check the gap between the pillar and the door itself
• Can you see the arch niche through the gap (see Soundproofing car arches with different materials)?
• After this, the sealing rubber on all doors and along its entire length is carefully inspected.
• This refers to the rubber band that should be used to seal the door when closing
• It is very easy to check
• If your elastic has pressure marks all over its surface, then everything is fine, however...
• The most common situation is when there is good pressure in one place, but not in another
• To check, we advise you to take a piece of paper and insert it into the slot, then close the door
• Pull the sheet, if you can pull out the paper, it means there is no sealing
• I hope now you understand that sound insulation of the engine compartment on the engine side begins after a thorough inspection of the car and elimination of sources of increased noise and sealing problems

"BiMast Bomb"

This is also a material that absorbs vibrations. Soundproofing "Kalina" is impossible without this kind of product. “BiMast Bomb” consists of several layers - aluminum foil on the front part, a layer of bitumen composition and a layer based on a rubber mixture.

For installation, the specified material must be heated to a temperature of 40 to 50 degrees. This vibration isolator does not absorb moisture and is considered the best among car enthusiasts and specialists. Its efficiency is quite high. It is recommended to use “BiMast Bomb” in the process of audio preparation of speakers and bodywork. Material thickness – 4.2 mm. It is used on the front panel, in the tunnel, on the wheel arches, in the area above the muffler and driveshaft.

Processing wheel arches

Usually the greatest amount of noise comes from the arches and the engine shield. We have already “made some noise” with the last one, all that remains is to deal with the arches. Due to the noise of the wheels and the operation of the suspension, this element becomes one of the most loaded in terms of vibrations and noise. In addition, as practice shows, the standard “noise” is often absent there.

But here, unlike the motor shield, there is practically nothing complicated. You need to start by thoroughly washing the surface and drying it completely. Next, the surface is degreased and anti-gravel material is applied. If there is a regular one, then this item can be omitted. We glue a vibration-absorbing layer of the “Noise-off” type. After this, a layer of mastic is applied using a brush, preferably 2-3 layers with drying intervals of 20-30 minutes at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. The final stage is adhesive sound insulation, preferably based on foam rubber.

"Splen 3004"

This is already a sound-absorbing material. In addition to soundproofing qualities, it also has high thermal insulation characteristics. It is convenient to install it on both straight and curved sections. It does not absorb moisture and does not deteriorate under the influence of the environment. The sheet thickness is 4 mm. Suitable for the front panel of the passenger compartment, wheel arches, tunnel and doors.

Glue “Splen” onto a layer of vibration-absorbing material. This way you can soundproof doors and wheel arches. In order for the material to stick as firmly as possible, the surfaces to be treated should be first cleaned and degreased. When gluing, it is recommended to maintain temperatures from 18 to 35 degrees - in this range, manufacturers guarantee high adhesive characteristics.

Sound sources

As is known, noise perceived inside a car can be of two types:

• primary, provoked by autonomous sources. These, in addition to cars passing by, turbulence of incoming air, primarily include the engine and transmission elements;
• secondary. Sound waves emanating from noise sources pass through the materials that insulate the vehicle interior: metal body parts (engine shield, tunnel, wheel arch, etc.), vehicle control components, as well as plastic trim and dashboard elements. They all resonate, creating structural noise. This not only contributes to the transmission of primary noise, but also provokes its own vibration vibrations (most of all at the junctions of the listed parts).

That is why sound insulation of the engine compartment is almost the first point from which high-quality sound insulation of a car begins. Of course, we cannot cover the engine or transmission itself with soundproofing materials. The following are processed:

• engine shield from the inside and outside (a partition separating the car interior and the engine compartment);
• interior cavity of the dashboard;
• hood;
• interior part of wheel arches, side panels;
• “tunnel”, near which the exhaust system passes, and on cars with rear-wheel drive or all-wheel drive there is also a cardan drive.

How to make noise less

Noise insulation of a car engine is carried out using three classes of materials.

• Vibration damping – compositions based on bitumen and foam rubber. It has a viscoelastic structure and serves to convert mechanical vibrations into thermal energy. In practice, the tight fit of the material makes it possible to dampen resonant vibrations of metal and plastic elements. The vibration absorber forms the base layer. Most effective when insulating thin-walled metal surfaces (up to 3 mm).
• Soundproofing - a material with a closed-cell structure. Reflects not only sound, but also heat waves.
• Sound absorbers are a fibrous or porous material in which there are a large number of interconnected cavities (in some models with a dense insulating layer on the front side). The open cell structure traps and diffuses noise.

Choice

How to choose the best material? The effectiveness of soundproofing compounds is characterized by the sound absorption coefficient (SAC). Vibration isolation is also assessed by the degree of mechanical losses (MCL) and the dynamic modulus of elasticity. All self-respecting manufacturers label the models of their noise-insulating compounds KZT. We can only trust when choosing sound insulation for a car engine.

If different models of material have the same composition and structure, but different thicknesses, then you can follow the rule - the thicker the better. Moreover, the effectiveness also depends on the method of combination and the area of ​​​​pasting. Not for all materials and areas of the vehicle, the percentage of area covered is directly proportional to efficiency.

Among the manufacturers we can recommend:

• STP and Shumoff, which are recognized leaders in the domestic market;
• Vikar;
• Noisebuster;
• SGM.

Soundproofing doors

Soundproofing technologies on Kalina are no different from those for other brands of modern cars. However, there are some peculiarities. Work begins with dismantling the door trim. Then the surface must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased - you can use white spirit. If there is an anti-corrosion coating applied to the bottom of the door, it does not need to be removed.

Do-it-yourself noise insulation of the Lada-Kalina, in this case, begins with the installation of vibration-isolating materials. It is necessary to cut parts of suitable size from a single sheet - the larger the piece, the more effective. When applying, it is recommended to heat the side with the adhesive layer with a hairdryer. Next, the material is glued to the inner wall of the door and rolled with a tool. The next sheet is overlapped.

Next, a noise-absorbing material is glued on as a second layer. It is recommended to use “Splen” or “Accent” (the latter is more effective). In the first and second cases, the sheets already have a self-adhesive base, so the process of applying the pieces will be easier and faster. Just as in the case of vibration insulation, the sheet is cut into the largest possible pieces - it is necessary to cover the entire surface of the door.

Next, you should decide whether the technological holes need to be closed.

If you close them with vibration-absorbing materials, then you will have to make slits to perform various repair work. If the interior is ventilated through the doors, then after sealing the holes the air simply will not be able to circulate.

When sealing the holes, the sound insulation of the Kalina door will be higher, for which a third layer is glued, but in most cases this is unnecessary. It is better to additionally treat the door trim.

Engine compartment

Do-it-yourself engine soundproofing starts with the engine shield. The main feature of the work is the need to remove elements attached to the partition. Since the engine shield is one of the most vibration-loaded body elements, the “vibration” on the side of the internal combustion engine must be glued over the entire accessible plane. You should prefer a material with a foil front layer, which will reflect heat waves, maintaining the temperature of the engine compartment (especially important for diesel internal combustion engines).

Pasting the inside of the engine shield is impossible without completely dismantling the dashboard, which on many foreign cars will require a lot of effort and care. If necessary, photograph the location of certain elements in order to put everything back together correctly.

Salon

If you covered 75-80% of the partition area on the engine side with vibration insulation, then 35-40% overlap will be sufficient for the internal part. Distribute the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. This way you can save on material and not lose quality. If the engine sound insulation is carried out only from the inside, then it is better to cover 95-100% of the area of ​​the engine shield with “vibra”.

The noise absorber is glued directly onto the vibration damping sheets. When choosing a “noise”, pay attention to the frequency range in which the material is most effective. The smartest thing to do would be to combine material that works in the mid- and high-frequency ranges. Lay out both types of materials in a checkerboard pattern with an overlap of 2-3 cm. If you did not carry out external sound insulation of the wheel arches, then on the inside, on top of the vibration-proofing layer, place a sound insulator (for example, “Spleen”). The side parts adjacent to the motor partition are less vibration-loaded, so material up to 3 mm thick can be used as a vibration damper.

The instrument panel is covered with a sound absorber based on foam rubber or polyurethane. Sound insulation should not be compressed. When compressed, the porous structure loses its effectiveness. We recommend gluing the joints of plastic elements with an anti-creaking agent.

Hood

You shouldn't expect any special effect from the hood soundproofing. Only a small part of the sound waves generated by the internal combustion engine and transmission parts penetrates the cabin through the windshield. The hood mount does not contribute to the transmission of vibrations. Since the hood area is a thermally loaded part, dense material with a foil facing layer should be used as a vibration damper. Such “vibration” models need to be heated before pasting. Sound insulation of the engine cover will not noticeably affect the comfort in the cabin. https://www.youtube.com/embed/j771FDaVxWs

Recommendations

How you can soundproof your car (using the example of STP and Shumoff products):

• hood – “Vizomat MP” or “Bimast Super”; on top of the vibration-damping layer - “Splen” or a standard heat-insulating “blanket”;
• motor shield. Outside – “BiMast Bomb”. Inside – “BiMast Super”, 60% of the area – “Accent”, 40% – Isoton;
• dashboard - “BiPlast” or compositions of the “Comfort” and “Germeton” series from Shumoff. Self-adhesive material in rolls or Bitoplast is used as an anti-squeak;
• arches – “Vizomat MP”, “Spleen”, “Bilast”.

Pasting areas must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, bitumen and oily deposits. Be sure to use a degreaser (“647”). You can heat the vibration insulation with a hair dryer; a special roller is used for rolling. https://www.youtube.com/embed/idkXK17obJw

Instrument panel, dashboard

On Kalina cars, soundproofing of the front panel can be done without removing it - only the hinged elements are dismantled. To soundproof the glove compartment, the first step is to apply anti-squeak to all the places where the glove box comes into contact with the panel. Then all internal parts of the box are treated with Bitoplast.

To work with interior plastic, the central tunnel, linings on the pillars, and side panels are dismantled. All plastic parts are glued with “anti-creaking” or “Bitoplast”. Particular attention should be paid to the clips.

On a Lada-Kalina car, sound insulation of the dashboard occurs with its removal. Next, both the mask and the instrument cluster itself are treated with modelin.

When working on the central trim, pay special attention to the electrical wiring and connectors. All wires must be wrapped with anti-creaking tape and secured with clamps. Hot melt adhesive should be added to each connector.

All panel parts that make “crickets” and squeaks are covered with “anti-creaking” or modelin. This way you can get rid of annoying noise. To prevent the panel from rattling, it is recommended to weigh it down.

Where to begin

First of all, many people ask questions about the advisability of the soundproofing procedure specifically on the engine side in the engine compartment.

There is an opinion that this is a completely useless event. And supposedly there is no meaning in it. But this is said mainly by those who have not felt the difference between cars with and without sound insulation, or who initially drive a car that has high-quality and efficient noise insulation from the factory. In the second case, I really don’t see the point in further insulating the engine compartment. But this occurs mainly on expensive and new cars. Owners of older and cheaper cars are less fortunate.

Hood

For noise reduction work on the hood, experts recommend using any vibration isolator and “Accent”, which is a noise-insulating material. The gluing technology is the same as for doors.

The sheet is cut into pieces of the required shape and attached to places on the hood cover. Vibration-absorbing materials are glued on as the first layer, and then they move on to noise-insulating materials. The Kalina hatchback is soundproofed in the same way, but only on the trunk lid.

Selection of materials

Direct comfort while driving depends on how significant the noise reduction is. The main point here is the selection of the required quantity and type of materials. There are both budget solutions and more expensive ones. It all depends on the thickness of the sound insulation, its quality and properties, but first things first.

So, after you have calculated the required amount of materials, you need to proceed directly to purchases. First, you will need vibration isolation (vibroplast). Next you will need soundproofing sheets. Pay attention to the thickness. The larger it is, the better the result will be. But even here you need to know when to stop, since excess weight will negatively affect the dynamics of the car. Don’t forget about anti-gravel, which protects noise and vibration insulation from high temperatures. It is not recommended to buy combined materials that supposedly combat noise and vibration at the same time. Their efficiency is usually quite low, and the cost is high. In addition, such sound insulation from the engine compartment will not bring the desired result.

Roof and ceiling

They are insulated to reduce noise from rain and eliminate squeaks.

For this task, it is recommended to use a vibrating plate “Gold” or “Silver”. It is very important that the ceiling does not become too heavy - this will not have the best effect on handling in the future. Next, two or more layers of Splen are glued.

The main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise the ceiling trim simply won’t fall into place.

What is needed to install Shumka

To effectively soundproof an engine, you need to prepare not only all the necessary insulating materials, but also auxiliary ones, as well as a set of tools so that you don’t have to look for them when the soundproofing process is in full swing. First of all, you should have on hand:

• a heat hair dryer in which you can adjust the heating intensity;
• high-quality sharp scissors and a knife with strong handles;
• degreaser;
• several convenient spatulas and brushes;
• roller for rolling out the mixture.

To clean surfaces from dirt and all kinds of waste, a portable vacuum cleaner is also useful.

Rear doors

Soundproofing of the Kalina (station wagon or hatchback) also includes treatment of the rear fender. As materials, you can use everything that was used when working on the doors. The technologies are similar. First of all, the surfaces are cleaned and degreased, then dried, and then the materials are installed using or without heating with a hairdryer.

On models of the Kalina brand, sound insulation can be easily done with your own hands. All work is extremely simple if a person knows how to work with scissors at least a little. You should not contact salons that offer such services. It is expensive.

You should definitely soundproof the car body - the result will please you!

Let's sum it up

I would like to note that you can often save significantly on materials. For example, the same vibroplast will cost much less in the construction market than in a car dealership. This also applies to other materials, such as anti-gravel and sound insulation. Remember that the larger the area covered, the better the result. But everything is good in moderation, so gluing several sheets of vibroplast in a row also makes no sense. Then it will be difficult to put all the elements of the dashboard in their rightful place, which is due to the reduction in usable space.

Since you can make soundproofing of the engine compartment with your own hands even without any experience in this field, it makes sense to do it. This is especially true for cars that do not have standard noise, and classics, where noise insulation is nominally available, but the factory saved a lot on the material and there is practically no use for it.

Good day to all! It's spring and warming up, but this doesn't stop those who want to modify and improve their own car. The topic of our conversation today will be sound insulation of the engine compartment.

The concept of car comfort usually means the presence of climate control equipment, comfortable seats and various additional functions.

But there is one more extremely important point. And it concerns specifically the noise level in the cabin when driving. Some will say that Shumka was originally provided from the factory. This is true. But not really. The quality of factory sound insulation is sometimes extremely low, and rather it is there purely for show. Plus, not all car companies insulate the engine compartment, which immediately negatively affects the level of comfort.

Therefore, the car owner has to buy materials and take on the task of correcting the factory’s defects with his own hands. At one time I also made myself a Shumka with felt on my first car. But now modern and highly effective materials have appeared. I recommend using them.

Required Tools

To install soundproofing you will need the following tools:

• rags;
• solvent;
• set of screwdrivers and keys;
• construction hair dryer;
• roller for rolling sound insulation sheets;
• cotton mittens;
• cardboard for patterns;
• spray bottle for applying liquid sound insulation to the bottom;
• soundproofing materials.

Soundproofing a VAZ 2107 is a labor-intensive job and will take a whole day to complete. It is better to carry out the work in the garage so as not to depend on weather conditions and protect surfaces from dust and contamination.