The rear door on the Lada Kalina does not open well: do-it-yourself repair and adjustment

From the moment I bought the Swallow, I was tormented by its trunk. The fact that it closed very poorly - it had to be closed literally on a grand scale. I read on the Internet that many people experience this. And I also found a simple recipe: unscrew the screws and adjust the position of the lock mate (it should move up and down). However, when I looked at what I had with the response part, I was upset - it was already, as it seemed to me, in the most extreme position and there was nowhere to adjust it. At least, that's what I thought... Look at this:

It would seem that there is nowhere to adjust downwards, since the piece of iron rests on the plastic. But! At random, my friend and I unscrewed the screws and tried to move this piece of hardware down and it “drove” behind the plastic (shown schematically by the dotted line):

Now I can close the trunk simply by lightly pushing it down with the same force as Kalina's door.

I think all owners of Viburnum hatchbacks already know how to adjust the trunk lid, but I’ll write it down in case it comes in handy for someone. The problem is known: to close the fifth door, you need to slam it hard, or even more than once. We solve the problem in two steps: 1) Slightly unscrew the 2 screws holding the lock hinge and move it towards you as much as possible.

Then we tighten one of the screws tightly (so that the set offset does not move) and the second screw so that the hinge turns with force, but slightly. We close the trunk lid 3-4 times, the hinge itself will align with the lock guide. Tighten the second screw until it stops.

2) There are rubber stops along the edges of the trunk lid.

We gradually wrap them by hand until the lid begins to close easily. It is important not to twist it, otherwise it will rattle. I had to tighten them as much as possible, but with a swing the door springs back and does not slam shut anyway. And if you lower it smoothly and apply a little pressure at the end, it closes almost silently. I think when I make noise, the door will become heavier and will close better.

How the back door on the Lada Kalina should work correctly

When operating domestically produced cars, you have to deal with both acquired and factory defects. The rear door of the Lada Kalina is more often than other body elements exposed to physical impact during driving, includes a number of technically complex devices, and has a high percentage of defects during assembly line assembly. The main components of the normal operating process of the door:

Correct geometry of fit of the lateral and vertical sides to the body, drain, sills of the car, equal gaps between them.
Clear operation of the locking mechanism, installed door closer, and central locking lock.
No extraneous sounds when moving the machine, including over rough terrain or dirt roads.

Careful car care increases its service life. Sometimes, if problems arise, it is enough to change the seal, tighten the fasteners, and lubricate the components and body parts.

Loose door hinges and how to fix them

Sometimes there is no need to adjust body structural elements. The problem of closing the door is caused by play in the hinges. Their role is performed by standard bolts. The hinge axes weaken due to frequent use, play occurs, the door begins to make sounds when driving, and perform vertical movements.

The defect is eliminated with a wrench. The bolts are tightened with a smooth force and, if necessary, replaced with similar fasteners of a modified design. After the hinges are aligned and the gaps disappear, the door is inserted into place, the size of the gaps on the right, left, and sides is carefully monitored.

Car doors do not open well

The most common manufacturer defect is that the rear and front doors on Kalina are difficult to open. The flaw occurs in used cars and those that have just come off the assembly line. The reason is incorrect or insufficient adjustment of the door handle or the door itself. In used cars, the doors become loose over time. Uneven gaps form at the joints with the housing components.

The problem can be solved with the help of a service center or fixed by yourself. The second option is more acceptable for experienced drivers, experienced auto mechanics and those who like to experiment with their car.

First of all, it is important to find out the reason why the back door on a Viburnum does not open well. An external inspection of the defect is carried out and a comparison with the original position of the part is carried out. Based on the results of the check, you can adjust the elements yourself.

In a similar way, malfunctions of the front and rear doors are eliminated, including the trunk door, if the car has a hatchback or station wagon body, but in this case there are nuances.

What is needed for installation

It is not recommended to install an electric drive on older cars. The design is not intended for the installation of such devices; everything will have to be changed and redone, which will take a lot of effort and time. But you can install a trunk release button if you already have shock absorbers or springs. Even if you plan to install a factory-made electric drive, you will need the following tool:

Electric drill.
Grinders (angle grinders).
Keys, screwdrivers, hammers – you can’t do without these tools.

In addition, you need to buy the following devices and parts:

Electric windows for cars of the classic VAZ series in the amount of two pieces.
Power window control module.
Wires, lugs, heat-shrink insulation.
Semiconductor diodes.
Electromagnetic relays with 4 and 5 contacts.
Blocks for electromagnetic relays.
It is recommended to buy the springs used in the trunk drive of VAZ cars of the tenth family.

Once you have acquired all these elements and prepared the tools, you can begin installing an electric trunk drive on your car. Next, we will consider in detail all stages of the work.

Door adjustment process

To eliminate defects in the operation of door elements, it is necessary to find out the cause of its occurrence. In some cases, treating moving parts of the mechanism with lubricants helps. The seals between the trim and the body are subject to wear and tear, and they also require replacement periodically. If manipulation of the replaced elements is not enough, technical intervention is required. Regulation is necessary for the following factors:

the gap in the extreme part of the structure causes the door on the Kalina car to not close tightly;
The problem is caused by a faulty door lock.

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Violation of the geometry of the structure in the doorway is the most common cause of a defect. Gaps can appear in any part of the joint with the body. Most often this happens from above and below. The adjustment in these cases is similar, but has minor differences.

Adjusting a door with a large gap at the top

Failure to correctly position the door is not always due to a manufacturing defect. The appearance of an enlarged gap in the upper part of the doorway is often associated with natural processes. Poor quality roads, driving on rough terrain, and heavy weight of the structure lead to the door sagging relative to its original position.

Restoring the position of the element relative to the body is carried out by a similar physical impact in a state of incomplete closure. The glass goes down completely. The door closes with one click. In this state, the size of the gap is regulated by moving the door toward or away from you, depending on the force applied.

Alignment is considered successful if the gaps are the same on all sides. The front doors are calibrated in the same way.

With heavy trunk doors of Lada Kalina hatchbacks and station wagons, the procedure is more complex and technological. The design is designed in such a way that when slammed, the lock tongue snaps into a metal bracket. The specific fastening of the lock with bolts creates additional instability. The bolts should be found and tightened with a screwdriver.

The tightness of the trunk closure is also affected by new factory seals. They have increased density for a longer service life. Over time, the material is developed, the severity of the closure decreases.

Types of fastenings, or why not every trunk is suitable for your car

For each of us, our own car is valuable in its own way. For some, comfort is important, while others need speed; some value prestige, while others value efficiency. And yet, most car enthusiasts will agree that a car is a universal means of transporting passengers and cargo.

However, often the standard interior and trunk of a car are not enough to quickly and comfortably transfer everything you need. In these cases, many drivers turn to the help of special car racks that are installed on the roof.

In the old Soviet times, this equipment was simple and universal. All cars and trunks fit together perfectly and quickly. The racks were attached to the roof of the car using drains, which almost every car had.

In the modern automotive world, everything is much more complicated. The car market is wide and varied. It presents a variety of models, both cars and luggage racks of domestic and foreign production. In order to choose the modification of the car trunk you need, you need to make a lot of effort. It is worth noting that some car manufacturers, even in the same model range of their own line of cars, use different options for luggage racks and their fastenings. Let's try together to understand this variety of forms and expressions of engineering thought.

The following 8 types of fastenings for roof racks can be distinguished:

Mounting on gutters

A drain is a special recess along doorways designed to drain water from the roof of a car. Drains are present on many domestic cars, but they are practically no longer found on foreign cars - foreign manufacturers have long abandoned this solution.

Pros: The trunk can be installed in any position, since the gutters run along the entire roof. You can install not a pair of rack racks, but for example 2 pairs. For cars with gutters, luggage racks and baskets are also produced. Universal, suitable for any VAZ classic, GAZ, IZH, Muscovites.

Mounting behind a doorway on a car with a smooth roof

The most common type of fastening is behind the doorway using clamps. The roof rack is secured to the roof of the car using a system of metal clamps (adapters/kit) on the edge of the doorway. Supports are installed on these adapters, and the necessary stability of this structure is ensured using a tightening mechanism and the rubber base of the trunk. Some cars have additional fastening for bolts in the form of threaded holes in the doorway for clamping.

Pros: suitable for most models, with a collapsible trunk design, when purchasing a new car, you often only need to buy an additional adapter, and use the same supports and arches. Even in the absence of locks, the arches are protected from removal by (usually) closed doors.

Cons: From the point of view of some car owners, the aesthetics of the car suffers. With prolonged intensive use, abrasions may occur at the point of contact with the roof/doorway.

Fastening the trunk to standard places (Fix Point)

The trunk is installed only where indicated in the relevant vehicle operating instructions, namely in standard places on the roof, and no imagination! In the absence of a trunk, the recesses of regular seats are often covered with decorative moldings.

Pros: manufacturers thought in advance that the car would be used to transport goods, which means high reliability of fastening is guaranteed.

Cons: limited choice, complete lack of ability to vary the position of the roof rack.

Mounting on longitudinal arches (on roof rails)

On vehicles equipped with longitudinal arches (rails), cross members are installed to transport cargo. As a rule, such crossbars can be secured at any distance from each other, which is convenient when transporting cargo of various or non-standard types and volumes.

Pros: Any variations in the location of the luggage bars, the structure does not come into contact with the roof, which means there is virtually no threat of scratching the roof or damaging the paint. When securing the load, the tightening straps can be passed through the roof rails.

Cons: The center of gravity of the load will be located higher compared to other mounts, which can negatively affect the vehicle's performance on the road.

Examples: All cars with roof rails, for example, VAZ-2111, Lada Priora station wagon, many foreign cars (usually SUVs or station wagons).

Mounting on integrated roof rails

Cars began to be equipped with integrated (merged, without clearance) roof rails relatively recently, usually station wagons or crossovers. Typically, such roof rails have special holes on the inside for securing transverse bars, but on many brands of cars you can also install universal bars without mounting screws.

Pros: The center of gravity is lower than in the case of conventional roof rails, the arcs can be moved along the roof rails (in the absence of fastening with screws).

Cons: For integrated roof rails, it can be more difficult to select cross bars. The advantage of conventional roof rails disappears - the ability to pass the tightening strap under the roof rail when securing the load.

Mounting the luggage rack on a T-shaped profile.

If there is a T-shaped profile on the roof of the car (also called “rails” or “runners”), then the arches are installed in them. Considered an ideal mounting option

Pros: installation is very simple, the bars can move along the entire roof of the car, and the supports and fastenings of the bars do not in any way come into contact with the roof of the car, which guarantees the absence of abrasions and scratches. Cons: There are practically none, except that automakers rarely equip their cars with a T-shaped profile, and they will only look appropriate on station wagons and SUVs and are unlikely to be suitable for sedan cars.

Example: All T-bar vehicles, e.g. Nissan Wingroad

Magnetic mount

A universal, but still quite exotic mounting option is using magnets. A pair of magnets are placed on the roof, onto which a load is attached on top. These magnetic mounts are easy to install on virtually any roof on any vehicle.

Pros: Absolute versatility, ease of installation

Cons: Relatively small “carrying capacity”. Such luggage racks are intended primarily for transporting light, oversized cargo, such as skis or snowboards. In addition, magnets tend to “demagnetize,” which can be quite unpleasant, especially on the road.

Inflatable trunk

An interesting option for transporting cargo, universal - you can run two belts through the interior not only in any 4-door car, but also in a 2-door car. The inflatable sections are placed directly on the roof, and the load is placed on top of them.

Pros: Absolute versatility, ease of installation

Cons: Limited category of cargo that can be transported (boxes, bicycles, cargo with sharp edges, etc. cannot be transported). The disadvantages also include interference for those sitting in the car from belts passed through the interior. An example of a rack - Handirack inflatable rack

As a result of this article, we can highlight the following: when choosing a trunk, the main criterion should be safety during cargo transportation. You should not ignore the recommendations and advice of car and luggage rack manufacturers, the requirements of the Road Traffic Regulations regarding the transportation of goods, as well as common sense and everyday logic.

Adjusting the trunk lock on a Lada with your own hands

July 31, 2022 Lada.Online 14,599

Is the trunk difficult to close or are the gaps between the trunk lid and the bumper too large/small? These are signs of an out of adjustment lock. Its adjustment on all modern LADA cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Priora, Kalina Niva 4x4) is carried out in the same way. There are no fundamental differences.

Malfunctions that owners of LADA cars (and other car brands) encounter when the trunk lock is not adjusted:

the trunk does not close properly (you have to slam the trunk lid several times);
the trunk does not open;
large trunk gaps;
The trunk closing sensor does not work (the indicator on the instrument panel is on);
During driving, extraneous noises appear (rattling, whistling, etc.).

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You will need: a 10mm wrench, a Phillips screwdriver or Torx T40.

How to adjust the trunk lock:

Remove the plastic cover by unscrewing a couple of fastening screws (on some models, for example, Lada XRAY).
Mark the position of the loop for a possible return to the original state.
Loosen the two bolts securing the lock hinge.
We move the hinge (forward/backward, up/down), achieving an easy and tight closure of the trunk.
Upon completion of the adjustment, tighten the screws securing the lock hinge with a torque of 22 Nm.

Lada Largus has two tailgates. Not only the bracket on the body can be adjusted, but also the lock latches on the doors themselves. The process is similar: loosen the mounting screws, move the latch or bracket, tighten the screws:

Have you ever had to adjust the door locks yourself? Let us remind you that in order to extend the life of locks and seals, they should be lubricated regularly. By the way, do you know how to make the trunk lid of a sedan (Grant or Priora) or station wagon/hatchback open automatically?

Found an error? Select it and press Ctrl Enter..

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Adjusting the gap between the bumper and the trunk lid

1. For this purpose, you can use plasticine in the area where two surfaces come into contact. We make a small ball and glue it to where the bumper and the cover meet.

2. Next, close the trunk lid according to the manual: we lower the lid freely from a height of no more than 20 cm.

3. The gap is adjusted by moving the trunk lid lock latch. Upon completion of the adjustment, the position of the buffer and trunk lid are adjusted.

3. We increase the gap and replace the buffers, according to the recommendations of AvtoVAZ itself. To remember the initial position of the lock latch, circle it with a marker.

4. Using a key set to “13”, loosen the 2 fastening bolts and slightly move the lock lock up.

To compare before and after photos:

5. We are replacing old thin and soft buffers 2108-84022114-01 (8450006169) with 21100-8402214-10 (8450101426), which are more powerful and longer.

Next, I’ll tell you how to adjust buffers

6. Paper is great for this, cut out a small strip and place it where the buffer stops, then close the lid.

7. Now, to assess the degree of pressure, we pull the paper towards ourselves, trying to pull it out, simultaneously assessing the degree of pressure. I think everything is simple and clear here: if the paper is pulled with great effort, it means the buffer is pressed very hard. Your task is to achieve equal pressure on both sides, while it is important to control that the trunk lid closes without difficulty.

Door lock adjustment

A car lock is used to prevent the door from opening spontaneously and is a protective element of the security system. The standard Lada Kalina lock consists of two parts: mechanical and electronic. It often becomes the reason why the door handle is difficult to open; Kalina sometimes has such a defect already from production. As in the case of adjusting door gaps, there are two options for correcting the deficiency:

Take your car to a service station and trust the professional technicians. Recommended for beginners and inexperienced car owners.
Fix the problem yourself using available tools. Suitable for car enthusiasts with extensive driving experience and basic training.

Adjusting the lock at home is done using a Phillips screwdriver. Before starting manipulations, it is recommended to mark the original position of all elements for possible return to their original state.

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To move the lock module, loosen the three screws that secure it. The bracket is now not fixed and can move in the plane. Once it is in the correct position, the screws are tightened into place. The structure is treated with lubricant and undergoes mandatory testing by opening and closing doors.

The procedure should be performed extremely carefully so as not to damage the body paint and trim elements.

If the lock is the reason that Kalina’s door does not open well, and the adjustment did not help, resort to more stringent means:

The locking bracket is pulled out 3 - 5 mm and secured in this position. The method allows you to use this additional distance for a smoother door movement. It is important to find the optimal size for the structure to bulge from the body. If the door is extended excessively, it will make sounds on uneven sections of the road and allow dust and moisture into the interior.
Reducing the area of the locking hook. This is usually achieved by filing the mechanism and restoring the locking system to its original state. The size of the cut area affects the ease of opening the doorway. If too much volume is removed, the door may open and close on its own. During processing, it is advisable to round off the sharp tip of the lock tooth.

A lock malfunction leads to the following difficulties:

door jamming when opening or closing;
the appearance of metal knocking when driving onto an uneven section of the road;
deformation of the larva, while the key cannot be inserted into the hole;
failure of the door module locking mechanism.

If loud rattling sounds occur, rubber tubes of the appropriate diameter help. They are placed on the levers after dismantling the entire system. Sometimes bending the impact area of the outer handle helps. In some cases, the car door lock must only be completely replaced, since adjustment is impossible.

Making it easier to open the hood

Gas strut installed on the machine

No one doubts that the gas hood stop is much more convenient. The car owner will certainly appreciate its advantages when manipulating the engine compartment in rainy weather. The shortcoming in the form of standard stops can always be corrected.

It is best to purchase a ready-made kit consisting of a strut spacer and a gas stop. The installation procedure is quite simple and takes about 20 minutes, but if technical skills are not enough, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. After installing the gas stop, the Lada hood will open on its own and close with an applied force of over 5 kilograms.

Timely replacement of the stop with a gas one will eliminate the need to search on forums for the answer to the question: what to do if the hood does not open? If such a problem does occur and the hood does not open, then you need to take a closer look at the car. There is a cable located on the front right, behind the radiator grille, it needs to be hooked. It is better to use a hook made of wire for this.

If this procedure does not help, you will need the help of a second person. One opens the hood in normal mode, the other presses lightly in the area of the lock. It is better, of course, to prevent a problem from occurring. Therefore, if the Kalina hood does not fit tightly and makes a rattling sound when driving, you need to immediately adjust its lock. This is not difficult to do; all you need is a pair of pliers with a large grip and a flathead screwdriver. First of all, you need to loosen the locknut. In this case, you need to keep the rod from turning with a screwdriver.

You can adjust the gap between the hood and the body by tightening the central rod with a screwdriver. After adjustment, tighten the locknut. Having adjusted the hood lock in this way, you need to check the ease of opening and closing it. If necessary, repeat the adjustment procedure.

Sometimes it seems that the Lada hood creates too many problems, but the following arguments can be made in its defense.

The Lada hood itself is attached very competently, the mounting loops are installed conveniently.
The painting is done with high quality. When traveling on Russian roads, where a fairly large stone can easily fly in and scratch or chip the paint, this is very important.
The Lada's hood is designed in such a way that it practically does not overheat.

Adjusting the bottom of the door

First of all, it is necessary to establish access to the inside of the lock from the outside. To do this, the glass is completely lowered. The door closes with light blows on the bottom of the casing. During the process, the size of the gap in the lower part of the structure is controlled. When the correct result is achieved, the door is carefully opened and slammed shut. If necessary, repeat the procedure. It is worth monitoring the force of impact and correcting the geometry of the doorway.

This method is used at manufacturing plants at the final stage of car production. The only difference from regulation at home is the availability of technological devices and tools.

Electric drive: easy installation option

The technique is simple, the only thing needed is to make a rotating plate and a rod for it yourself. The wiring should be routed to the electric lock and connected to a special control unit. When disarming the car, the electric trunk lock will be activated after the fifth door opening button is unlocked.

The entire installation task is based on connecting the electric lock to two wires. You can purchase the part at any auto store. The trunk end must be additionally hidden to prevent water from getting into it. Otherwise, it will periodically short out during rain.

An important attribute is the trunk hinges. Wires are often broken in this place, so their condition must be carefully monitored.

Before installing the electric drive, the trunk lid trim is removed. The main thing is not to damage it during this process. It is recommended to choose a lock that will not need to be modified during operation.

An important step in the installation process is wiring; you can use those wires that are standardly suitable for the fifth door of the car.

Power is taken from the cigarette lighter. An important point is the installation of a protective fuse. The wire is laid along the threshold; it will take approximately 3.5 meters. Then the installation takes place.

It is advisable to choose an option that does not require drilling additional holes. The procedure consists of connecting the wires according to the diagram. Important: you can use the wire that goes to the trunk light.