Repair of transfer case on Niva 21213, how to center it, do-it-yourself adjustment

Transfer case location and functions

Location of the transfer case in the Niva 21213

The transfer case occupies an intermediate position in the vehicle transmission between the gearbox and the driveshaft. It has its own body in which its components are located.

The transfer case helps to implement such SUV capabilities as:

• Center differential lock.
• Disabling the drive axle.
• Increased torque of the drive wheels.
• Distribution of torque along the wheel axles.

Removal

Place the vehicle over an inspection ditch or on a lift. Release the parking brake and place the transfer case and transmission shift levers in neutral. Remove the floor housing trim trim, the lever hatch covers and the handles from the levers.

Disconnect the flexible speedometer drive shaft from the transfer case and the wires from the differential lock warning lamp sensor. While turning the driveshafts, disconnect the driveshaft flanges from the transfer case shafts.

Unscrew the nuts 3 (Fig. 3-40) of the bolts securing the brackets 1 of the transfer case suspension (supports) and remove it along with the brackets and spacers 5, which are installed under the brackets. Label each gasket so that you can put them in place in the same quantity.

Rice. 3-40. Attaching the transfer case to the car:

1 — transfer case suspension bracket; 2 — filler plug; 3 — nut for fastening the suspension bracket; 4 — drain plug; 5 - adjusting shims

Understanding the terminology

Let's start by diving into the materiel. Transfer case (TC) is a separate unit of an all-wheel drive vehicle, which provides multi-mode power distribution from the engine to the front and rear axles.

Externally, this is a mechanism located under the bottom of the car, in the body of which a multiplier (divider) is placed in series to obtain an intermediate gear ratio in the transmission and a splitter of one power flow into two. It is with the help of this device and its controls (levers) that go into the vehicle interior that the LADA 4×4 driver selects the all-wheel drive operating mode.

The RK directly connects the front driveshaft and the intermediate shaft (shaft) with the vibration damper to the vehicle’s gearbox. As is probably already clear from the description, this element is connected to the rear axle of the car via a rear propeller shaft.

Transfer case 2123 (2-row bearing) Chevrolet Niva Art. 21230-1800020-0116500.00-+ Buy Transfer case 2123 Chevrolet Niva Art. 21230-1800020-0114500.00-+ Buy Transfer case (2-row bearing) 21213 Art. 21213-1800020-0115000.00-+ Buy

Dismantling

1. To remove the manual transmission, you will need a “13” wrench (open-end or ratchet), a flat-head and a shaped screwdriver. For convenience, removal is carried out in the inspection pit.
2. Inside, use a screwdriver to remove the decorative trim of the levers. Under the cover there will be a boot for two shift levers, which is also removable.
3. The cardan shafts are being dismantled. This is done using the key at “13”. The front and rear universal joints are disconnected identically. Before removing the shafts, it is necessary to mark the seating space with the cardan fork so that vibration does not occur after installation.
4. The speedometer cable is dismantled by unscrewing one nut and moved to the side.
5. Next, unscrew all the bolts securing the transfer case through the supports to the body and remove the gearbox.

Centering method

To carry out this work you will need a lift, although with some skill you can get by with simple supports. First you need to prepare the car. If there is a lift, it is raised up. If supports are used, the corners of the machine are jacked up one by one and it is placed on them. Please note that all supports must be stable, otherwise the work will be unsafe. You should also prepare the tool in advance. If there are no plans to simultaneously replace other parts, then it is quite possible to get by with a ratchet and a “13” head. During operation, an assistant must be in the cabin.

Adjustments are made in the following order:

• To begin with, you should evaluate the condition of the splines on the cardans. If they are very worn, then most likely you will not be able to perform the alignment correctly. In case of significant wear, parts should be replaced;
• The transfer case mount is inspected. Often the displacement can be seen with the naked eye;
• Next, loosen the transfer case mount. Just don’t unscrew it completely;
• After this, start the engine and “accelerate” the car to a speed of 80-90 km/h. In this case, the transfer case will fall into place on its own;
• The crucial point is to consolidate the result obtained. This can be achieved in 2 ways. Mechanics argue which one is better, but both are used in everyday life. Most often, the engine is turned off, and with its help the transfer case and cardan shafts are stopped.
• All that remains is to quickly tighten the nuts. Disadvantage here 2. Stopping the box in this way can have a negative impact on its condition.
• Also, you need to tighten the fastener as quickly as possible, otherwise it will be of no use. A more reliable, but technically complex method is to tighten with the engine running;
• The car is lowered to the ground and testing is performed.

If the vibration persists, the procedure should be repeated.

Tips for aligning the RCP

After all operations to remove and install the transfer case, it must be centered. To do this you will need:

• loosen the transfer case so that it “sits” as freely as possible and can move irregularly;
• accelerate to a speed of 80 km/h, after the transfer case sits in its seats;
• tightening occurs as quickly as possible and with the engine running, so that by means of vibration, the control gear does not have time to take an inappropriate position.

After such repairs, the transfer case can serve faithfully for a very long time. Unfortunately, the operation of the transfer case under excessive loads often significantly affects the reduction of service life due to its weak design. To increase the reliability of the gearbox, you can install a subframe, which will allow the transfer case to be placed aggressively in its space, and also eliminate strong vibration from the operation of the box.

The finished subframe for the Niva has ready-made holes and fasteners for attaching it to the body. Also, to increase reliability, an additional support for the transfer case was installed. To install the subframe, you will need to install a jack under the transfer case, loosen the fastening nuts and lower the transfer case. Next, the subframe is fitted to the seats. I strongly recommend that you thoroughly lubricate the holes in the bottom to prevent possible corrosion. The subframe is screwed onto the transfer case seat, and the box itself is screwed onto the subframe. Due to the fact that the subframe is aggressively connected to the body, vibrations will still transfer to the body, but not so significantly. Thanks to reinforced supports and high-quality rubber pads, the transfer case will no longer have the tendency to move out of its seat, which means that all elements of the chassis will last much longer.

Repairing the transfer case of a Niva car is quite simple. If you have the right tool at hand and a little knowledge of the gearbox design, then in a few hours your transfer case will live a new life. Installing a subframe will free you from almost all problems and prevent early wear of all parts, components and assemblies of the box.

Source: autoburum.com

Disassembly

1 — front axle drive housing; 2 — crankcase cover; 3 — speedometer drive housing fig. 3-39fig. 3-38

rice. 3-38fig. 3-39

1- intermediate shaft; 2 - drive shaft; 3 — differential; 4 - front cover

1 - flange; 2 — oil seal; 3 — thrust ring of the bearing, 4 — front bearing; 5 - drive shaft; 6—high gear; 7 — hub; 8 - coupling; 9 — low gear; 10 — bushing: 11 — rear bearing; 12 — bearing installation ring; 13 — intermediate shaft bearing; 14 - intermediate shaft

• remove the lock ring 1 (Fig. 3-45) and spring washer 2 of the front bearing;
• remove the rear and front bearings from the differential housing (Fig. 3-46), using a universal puller and stop 67.7853.9559;
• by turning the bolts of the differential housing, separate the housing;
• remove the differential driven gear;
• remove retaining rings 8 (Fig. 3-45) and spring washer 14, then press out the pinion axis and remove the satellites and drive axle drive gears with support washers.

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1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing mounting ring; 4 — differential housing bearings; 5 — driven gear; 6 - front differential housing; 7 — front axle drive gear; 8 — retaining ring of the satellite axis; 9 — satellite; 10 — rear differential housing; 11, 15 — support washer; 12 — rear axle drive gear; 13 — satellite axis; 14 - spring washer

1 — puller A.40005/1/6; 2 — stop 67.7853.9559; 3 - bearing

• the axial clearance of each axle drive gear should be 0-0.10 mm, and the moment of resistance to rotation of the gears should not exceed 14.7 N m (1.5 kgf m). If the gap is increased, replace the support washers with others of greater thickness; if the specified gap cannot be obtained when installing support washers of the greatest thickness, replace the gears with new ones due to their excessive wear;
• The drive and intermediate shafts are installed in the transfer case housing simultaneously (see Fig. 3-47);
• Press the bearings onto the differential housing using mandrel 67.7853.9558 (see Fig. 3-48);
• Before installation in covers and crankcases, lubricate the working surfaces of the oil seals with LITOL-24 grease;
• Tighten threaded connections to the torques specified in Appendix 2;
• when compressing the transfer case shaft nuts, use mandrel 67.7820.9520 (see Fig. 3-49).

Instructions

1. Place the gearbox and transfer case in the neutral position, thereby ensuring free rotation of the intermediate shaft. 2. Unscrew the nuts securing the elastic supports of the transfer case on its axles (M10, wrench 17) and the bolt securing the elastic support of the box to its bracket (M10).

3. Unscrew and remove the catalyst thermal protection shield (if there is one) on Niva cars before 2008. Trim as shown in the photo.

4. Unscrew the transfer case supports from the body and remove them from the axles. 5. Unscrew the box support bracket from the body and remove it.

6. Unscrew the elastic support from the gearbox and remove it (later it will be used as a third support for the transfer case).

7. Unscrew the two nuts on the rear cover of the transfer case at the level of fastening the bracket of the third support and cut off the rib located between these nuts, ensuring a tight fit of the bracket to the cover.

On the fields, the year of manufacture is after 2008. Location of the catalyst (as in the photo)

8. Remove the catalyst clamp bracket and cut it off as shown in the photo.

9. Thus, a part of it remains at the place where the bracket is attached.

10. Attach the third support bracket to the transfer case with two nuts.

11. Attach the strips with elastic supports installed on them to the free studs in the body (do not pull the supports to the plates). Before installation, treat the bottom with mastic.

Eliminating prerequisites

The misalignment of the transfer case occurs due to an undeveloped design. Therefore, many craftsmen strive to modify the fastening so as not to bother with alignment once a year. A special frame is used for this. In recent years, it can be purchased in stores, but you can also make it yourself. The advantages of this modification are the following:

• The transfer case is mounted on the rigid base of the subframe. The attachment to the body is made through a subframe, this allows to reduce the level of vibration transmitted to the body;
• It plays the role of a kind of protection for the crankcase;
• Also worth mentioning is adding additional rigidity to the side members.
• Among the disadvantages, we can mention a slight decrease in clearance. Although, in light of the advantages, this does not play a special role.

To assemble the subframe you will need a square pipe. Some people use a corner, but in this case the structure will be less durable. The support plates are made of sheet steel. Before assembly, you should cut off the old transfer case mounting bolts. Now it will be installed on the subframe. The pipe is cut to size and the frame is welded. After that, holes are drilled in the crossbars for fastening the transfer case. It is important not to make a mistake with the sizes. The next step will be assembling the mount to the body. Sheet steel support plates are welded to the subframe. Holes are drilled in it. After fitting, you need to drill holes in the floor of the car.

M12 bolts should be used for fastening

, as well as thick washers.
After installing the subframe, do not forget to treat it with an anti-corrosion compound. This will increase the service life of the part. This is how, through simple manipulations, you can get rid of one of Niva’s sores. Conclusion
. Even great cars have flaws. The domestic SUV Niva is no exception. During active use, vibrations emanating from the transmission may occur. That’s when the question arises of how to center the transfer case on the Niva. In fact, this work is not difficult, but there are some nuances that are better to know before starting work. Some people, knowing this feature of this car, install a subframe, this can significantly reduce the noise of the transmission.

The device of the VAZ Niva transfer case

The transfer case is not present in all VAZ passenger cars, but only on cars with two drive axles. In the transmission, the transfer case (TC) is installed at the rear of the gearbox; a rear driveshaft is attached to its shank, which connects the transfer case to the rear axle. The front axle is also driven by the steering wheel; it is connected to the transfer case by a front driveshaft.

The reduction gear in the Republic of Kazakhstan is designed to obtain high torque, it is used to overcome difficult sections of the road, and helps to cope with off-road conditions. The VAZ Niva transfer case contains the following main parts:

• the body itself;
• front axle drive shaft;
• intermediate shaft;
• drive shaft;
• gears;
• bearings;
• differential housing;
• satellites;
• differential lock clutch;
• gear shift clutch;
• flanges (for connection to cardan shafts);
• oil seals;
• control levers.

Overcoming a deep puddle

How ESP Works in a Car
Often a dispute arises between motorists about how best to cross a ford with a transfer case. Some people prefer to “fly” into a puddle from acceleration, others prefer to downshift. If you get into a mud pit, there is a high risk of water hammer - water enters the cylinders through the filter, and the engine “chokes.” To exclude this, many install a special snorkel. But you can do without it. A deep puddle should be overcome in second low gear. This is done so that in case of trouble (when the car starts to fail) you can switch to first gear in time and not stall. If you enter the water from acceleration (which is a better decision), remember that the wheels may get stuck in the middle of the journey. The engine power is not enough to turn the wheels - the car stalls, and the engine experiences a hydraulic shock.

Methodology for determining the causes of vibration of the transfer case and body floor in the area of ​​the front seats

First, note at what speed the transfer case vibration occurs, then begin to determine the causes of the vibration.

Test 1

Place the transfer case and gearbox levers in neutral and start the engine.

Set the engine speed equal to the vehicle speed at which the vibration occurred.

If vibration persists when the vehicle is stationary, you should check the fastening and condition of the engine mounts, as they are the cause of the vibration.

Test 2

If vibration is not detected during test No. 1, then set the transfer case levers to the neutral position, start the engine, engage direct gear in the gearbox and set the engine speed corresponding to the vehicle speed at which the transfer case vibration occurred.

If vibration is observed with a stationary car at this crankshaft rotation speed, then its cause is a malfunction of the intermediate driveshaft (imbalance, bending of the fastening bolts or elastic coupling flange, jamming in the universal joint).

Test 3

If no vibration is detected in tests 1 and 2, proceed to test 3.

Accelerate the vehicle to a speed where vibration occurs and place the transfer case and gearbox levers in neutral.

If the vibration persists, it is caused by a malfunction of the front or rear driveshafts, imbalance, jamming of the universal joints or imbalance of the center differential.

Before centering the transfer case, we check the condition of the power unit supports and the correct installation (the centering washers of the engine mounts must fit into the corresponding holes in the side brackets).

We install the transfer case on the car without fully tightening the nuts securing the brackets for its suspension.

By moving the transfer case in the longitudinal, transverse and vertical directions (tightening or loosening the nuts of its fastening), we achieve a minimum and uniform gap between the flanges of the intermediate shaft and the drive shaft of the transfer case (the flanges must be at the same level and parallel to each other).

We fill the gap between the body floor and the supports with adjusting shims and align the centering belts of the flanges, slightly moving the transfer case forward (by the amount of the gap between the flanges).

Finally tighten the nuts securing the transfer case supports.

When replacing a transfer case or changing a four-speed gearbox to a five-speed one and vice versa, as well as when the rear engine mount settles, causing vibration of the transfer case, it is necessary to select and install a new thickness of gaskets 3 (Fig. 1).

Forced unlock

Sometimes it happens that the lock jams - it cannot be turned off even when the car is completely stopped. The situation is quite common for the Chevrolet Niva. How to solve it? There is a sure way. To do this, turn on reverse gear, accelerate a little, and turn it off while driving. At a certain speed, you can easily “knock it out.” But if a similar lamp continues to light on your instrument panel, as in the photo below, the lock has not been turned off.

What to do in such a situation? It is necessary to turn on the first speed and try to turn off the unit again. Moving back and forth will solve the problem of a stuck differential. In general, it is recommended to turn on the center lock only in serious off-road conditions. At the intersection of dirt roads and sand dunes, a downshift is sufficient.

Video: Aligning the Niva transfer case without a lift

Repair and alignment of the transfer unit must be carried out subject to the presence of experience and knowledge in the field of design and repair of the specific transmission of all-wheel drive vehicles. The range-multiplier needs to be centered after each reinstallation. The correct position of the box is judged by the presence of vibration.

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Is it really worth changing the transfer case?

I took a radical approach to the issue of eliminating excess noise in the Niva’s cabin. I often drive my family, so I simply installed a new small-module transfer case. The front and rear covers were equipped with 2-row bearings; this innovation was introduced at the Tolyatti plant back in 2010. Thus, the output shafts eliminated unnecessary vibrations, and in general, the service life and reliability of the entire RK mechanism increased.

I also simultaneously replaced the levers with ones that have anti-resonance bushings installed inside them. A lever of a similar design, by the way, was originally installed from the factory on the Chevy Niva (it has only 1 lever), which is why the howling and hum characteristic of the classic Niva were usually not noticed on the Shniva.

Reviews

There are owners who have not installed quiet transfer case levers, but are already expressing their point of view:

It's hard to believe that changing the levers will eliminate the noise, but it's worth a try.

It's complete nonsense, a publicity stunt, the howling of the transfer case and the replacement of levers have nothing in common; the levers create a completely different sound.

Thank you very much, it helped a lot, the howl of the transfer case disappeared

There is an effect, the sound becomes muffled, but does not disappear

The noise of the transfer case (pig squeal) has decreased by 70 percent, and this is with only one replacement lever!

The howling has become less, but it’s still there

I didn’t notice any special changes, but when I got to the Moscow Ring Road, I was pleasantly surprised: there was at least 50% less hum, howling, vibrations in the cabin and other unpleasant sounds in the area of ​​the Republic of Kazakhstan. In general, I'm pleased!

Stop fooling people!))) 3300 is nothing!)

The hat is everything. The ringing remains!

The sound became soft, but its volume did not decrease. Later, I reinstalled the factory levers.

It has become a little quieter, but when you drive you can feel the changes in the high-pitched sound. A side effect has appeared, on bumps at speed it knocks the transfer case into neutral. Apparently the thick base, when the box vibrates, touches the body and knocks it out.

Many people write that it has become noticeably better, but for me the difference is almost imperceptible. Maybe it's the howling transfer case.

Have you managed to remove or reduce the transfer case noise on a Niva using anti-vibration transfer case levers? Leave your feedback in the comments, take part in surveys.

: in our online store (link to product).

Let us remind you that we previously talked about cheaper ways to reduce noise in the Niva’s cabin. For example, you can make a floor tunnel or install additional seals.

Keywords: soundproofing 4x4 | 4x4 tunnel | 4x4 gearbox

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Vibrations in the field, prologue

Introduction to history. In the team of people with whom I work, there are quite a lot of people with different characters, education and astrology)) What I mean is that “Virgo” is “VIRGO”. And either you understand this, or kill him right away. For example: when this person had problems with the gearbox and he decided to bring it “to mind” and go through it, he did it FIVE TIMES. Sometimes during disassembly, changing one bearing that he didn’t like, for one reason known to him))) And this person suggested that I look for vibrations, because the box had been rebuilt 5 times, the transfer case 10, and even the “hammer and sickle” CV joint driveshafts were taken for additional balancing.

Vibration and how to deal with it.

The main reason for the occurrence of unnecessary sounds is multi-frequency vibrations of the components of the transmission. In general, the vibration of the transfer case on a Niva is one of the most common cornerstones that other car owners are forced to fight (or put up with) constantly.

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• Check the cushions (supports) on which the power unit, gearbox and other parts are attached to the body, including the muffler. Any worn-out pad or rubber band can easily cause excessive shaking of the iron and accompanying rumble. It is better to replace worn silent blocks and pillows immediately.
• Be sure to pay attention to the intermediate shaft (inlet shaft). If you see signs of “fatigue” - change the elements that have become unusable, or the entire part!

• Examine the condition of the driveshafts. The “old” version of the cardan allows you to service (repair) the part, for example, by replacing broken crosspieces.
• In the case of CV joint driveshafts, you will have to replace a completely non-functional element.
• As for driveshafts on constant velocity joints (CV joints), this design is more expensive, but it has an undeniable advantage - it is easy to dismantle and install back, and this operation does not disturb the balancing of the driveshafts.
• It would be a good idea to pay attention to the placement of the transfer case. If an additional (third) RC mount is installed, unscrew it from the box; there is no need to unscrew it from the body. Set the transfer case to neutral, start the car and in fourth gear, rev it up to about 3-4 thousand revolutions. It must stabilize and, as they say, find its place. Turn off the car and secure the mechanism.

Perhaps this is the most complete set of measures that experienced auto mechanics advise when the transfer case on a Niva hums and vibrates!

Eliminate vibration with additional fasteners

Vibration in the body is the main “disease” of the Niva; it often occurs due to improper alignment of the transfer case. Most often, vibration occurs on VAZ 21213/21214 cars, since the transfer case is mounted only on two supports on the sides of the body; on the Chevrolet Niva, the transfer case is already installed on three supports.

• driveshafts are poorly secured;
• wheels are not balanced;
• there is play in the cardan crosspieces (vibration is especially affected by play in the rear driveshaft crosspieces);
• The vibration comes from the engine itself.

Vibration when starting off on a Niva can also occur for the following reasons:

• the mounting supports of the transfer case have become loose;
• The rubber on the RK supports themselves broke.

Installing the third support of the transfer case on VAZ 21213/21214 vehicles allows you to reduce the level of vibration of the transfer case; with this support it is easier to center the transfer case. The part can be purchased at auto stores or made yourself. The finished product comes with three long studs (for model 2121); to install the third support on this machine, you will need to unscrew the short studs from the transfer case housing and install new studs from the kit. We carry out repairs as follows:

• dismantle the front passenger seat in the cabin;
• remove the floor tunnel lining;
• in the cabin we move aside the carpet covering the body amplifier (in front of the handbrake lever);
• remove the transfer case (alternatively, you can simply hang it up, but removing the third support makes it easier to install);
• We attach the bracket of the new support to the body of the RC;
• we install the transfer case in place, center it in the optimal position, and fasten the side supports;
• we combine the third support with the body, drill two holes in the bottom;
• Using washers, bolts and nuts (from the kit) we attach the support to the bottom of the body.

And also interesting: ✅ What is the diameter of the Chevrolet Niva steering wheel - auto-parts.su/

Vibration is eliminated more effectively by installing a subframe under the transfer case. You can also make such a device yourself or buy a finished product at a car store.

In order to install the subframe, the transfer case must be removed. It is more convenient to carry out such work in a pit; we carry out repairs as follows:

• leave the car in neutral gear;
• disconnect the propeller shaft from the transfer case, it is advisable to mark the driveshaft flange and the drive shaft so that during installation, align the driveshaft according to the marks - this way, the occurrence of unnecessary vibrations is eliminated;
• dismantle the muffler mounting bracket;
• remove the gearbox traverse;
• jack up the transfer case, remove the side fastenings of the transfer case;
• We treat the places where the subframe fits to the body with Movil;
• place the subframe on the gearbox studs;
• we mark the attachment points of the subframe on the side members, drill holes, attach bolts to the body;
• we tighten all fastenings, except for the transfer case supports themselves;
• we perform alignment of the steering wheel;
• Finally tighten the transfer case supports.

It should be noted that installing an additional support or subframe on the steering wheel does not always lead to the desired effect; in some cases, vibration only increases.

Removing the howl and hum

We will assume that we have dealt with the vibration, but an equally significant problem remains - how to remove the howling of the transfer case on the Niva. Vibrations of the mechanism are not always the only reason for the appearance of extraneous irritating sounds. And the characteristic noise of the transfer case, alas, is one of the “trademark” shortcomings of one of the best domestic SUVs.

1. The first thing you should pay attention to is the levers. It is better to immediately replace them with silent ones - with anti-resonance bushings inside. They won’t eliminate all the noise, but they will definitely extinguish some of it.

Silent transfer case levers NIVA 2121 black Art. SV-21-18040401400.00-+ Buy

1. The result will be even better if you install a small-module transfer case - with front and rear covers equipped with double-row bearings. In 2010, AVTOVAZ introduced new double-row bearings for output shafts in order to get rid of backlash and runout, as well as extend the life of the seals and, in general, increase the reliability of the mechanism. Here logic is man’s friend: less shaking and hesitation means higher service life and reliability.

Transfer case (2-row bearing) 21213 Art. 21213-1800020-0115000.00-+ Buy

How to use it correctly

There is a diagram on the shift lever. To turn it on, you need to move the lever to the right, up. To lock the differential, pull it all the way to the left. There are also Latin letters on the lever. So, L is a low gear, N is neutral, and H is high. Now let's find out how to use all this so that we don't have to repair the mechanism and change the transfer case bearings. The Chevrolet Niva is a universal-purpose vehicle that is actively used not only on asphalt surfaces, but also off-road. So, if you have to overcome a ford or a puddle, you should stop completely and turn on a lower set of steps

Please note: it should only be turned on after a complete stop. Even at 5 kilometers per hour you will have problems with the transfer case

But you can lock the differential even while driving. This won't bring any surprises. Unless due to the constantly working two axles and axle shafts. In what cases is it necessary to turn it on on a Chevrolet Niva? Its work will be needed when crossing “diagonals”, fords and during a long climb, which you climb slowly. Motorists often ask: is it possible to drive for a long time with a lock? Please note that it should only be enabled when absolutely necessary. Otherwise, the load on the teeth and shafts increases. If you drive like this on the asphalt at high speed, you will soon need to replace the transfer case on your Chevrolet Niva.

Who is to blame and what to do?

I think that the first question is rhetorical))) But let’s try to answer at least “why this is so.” I am a mechanical engineer by education and work, production technology is at an average level, so I turned to a military plant technologist for advice. How it should be: the workpiece is made with a press, rough processing is carried out with allowances, a thermal treatment is made, the part is processed completely according to the “main and landing” dimensions. How it was done: the last stage was removed. After heat treatment, the part warps and does not come out clean. Or it is placed on a cylindrical mandrel during finishing processing, which cannot be done. Since with this design, everything is centered on the splines.

The answer to the second question. We buy a box at the factory containing 100 “semi-finished” flanges wrapped in oil paper, drag them to the lathe, set up the “finishing fixture” and finish the entire batch.

We study problems and repair methods.

Any car owner definitely doesn’t need to be told why howling and humming are bad. Vibration of the transfer case on a Niva at low speed is quite common. The driver, of course, gradually gets used to many extraneous sounds in the car, but the noise level is high enough to make it impossible to carry on a conversation with passengers while traveling. Due to excessive noise pollution, you will inevitably have to deal with the problem.

Sources

• https://motorltd.ru/snyatie-i-tsentrirovanie-razdatochnoy-korobki-vaz/
• https://sv-parts.ru/blog/detail/vibracii-voi-razdatki-niva-kak-ubrat/
• https://AutoFlit.ru/2260-kak-otcentrovat-razdatku-na-nive-sposob-dlya-korotysha-i-shevrole.html
• https://NewNiva.ru/samodelka-razdatka-niva.html
• https://avto-idea.ru/remont/remont-razdatki-na-nive-21213-kak-ottsentrovat/
• https://avtomechanic.ru/niva-vaz-21213/transmisiya-vaz-21213/kak-ustranit-vibratsiyu-razdatochnoj-korobki-vaz-21213
• https://zen.yandex.ru/media/id/5f2ae91f66ca0e557c7aba7d/nadoel-voi-razdatki-na-nive-rasskazyvaiu-kak-ia-ot-nego-izbavilsia-5f2c55c38fa8d55d29d4d8dc
• https://niva-fr.ru/tyuning-osnovnaya-statya/vibratsii/
• https://NewNiva.ru/kak-ustranit-vibratsiyu-na-nive-21214.html

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