How to choose a clutch for Lada 2107: classification and reviews of kits

Release bearing Lada Granta

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Release bearing Gearbox 2181, Clutch release clutch Gearbox 2181 - replacement in Lada Granta

Well, I was struck by the death of the release bearing with a mileage of 23 thousand km, also known as the clutch release clutch of the gearbox 2181. Judging by people's reviews, this bearing does not last more than 30 thousand km. In the evening everything was fine. The next day in the morning, while squeezing the clutch, I noticed that it was somehow not being pressed correctly, I thought, maybe it seemed, and after 20 - 30 km the clutch disappeared altogether.

With the car running, I could not turn on the first and rear, 3,4,5 turned on with difficulty, and after a while they did not turn on. But with the car turned off, all transmissions were switched on. Having opened the hood, I pulled the clutch fork, it dangled as desired in different directions, i.e. was not fixed. Having reached the garage under my own power (25 km), I began to find out the reason. I disassembled and removed everything unnecessary that interfered with removing the box. We unscrewed and separated the box from the engine and supports, hung it by the CV joints (in this position it is problematic to install it later, it is better to read a repair book). The problem became immediately clear - the release bearing had died. Among other release bearings, I chose a roughly similar one - the Priorov one, but it still needed to be installed somehow, and for it to still work. In the 2181 gearbox there is a release fork similar to a fork from a cornfield, based on this I decided to also buy a release bearing spring from a cornfield (or from a VAZ 2101) that secures the bearing to the fork.

on the left - Grantovsky, on the right - Priorovsky bearing

modified Priorov bearing sits on the shaft

The spring is installed in the bearing groove and fixes the fork on the other side, i.e. the fork is clamped by a spring, if something is not clear, then read the manual for replacing the release bearing in the field.

Well, that’s all, actually. I put the box back, assembled everything, and connected it. Works great. Don’t forget to lubricate the shaft where the bearing sits and the splines with a lubricant like lithol, but not too much because if you overdo it, then when the shaft rotates, lubricant can splash onto the clutch disc, and it will slip. After these procedures, the clutch pedal became a little softer, and the gears shifted better. I drove more than 100 km, everything is fine, time will tell how long it will last. Well, everyone decides for themselves to change the original 2181 release bearing every 30tkm or less, or install another one with modifications. The release bearing should last for the entire service life of the clutch, i.e. operating time to failure is at least 800 thousand “off-on” cycles of the clutch, which is equivalent to a car mileage of 100,000 km, and a bearing that falls apart up to 30 thousand km.

Replacing the Lada Granta clutch release fork

The clutch release fork on a Lada Granta is replaced in case of mechanical damage (deformation, cracks on the surface). To carry out repair work, remove the gearbox from the car, prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:

· Remove the clutch release bearing.

· Remove the protective rubber cover of the clutch fork; to do this, carefully pry it up with a flat-head screwdriver and remove it from behind the collar. If the casing is damaged, the rubber has dried out or lost elasticity, we replace it with a new one.

· From the inside of the clutch housing, using pliers, squeeze the petals of the clamp and from the outside, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the plastic bushing of the clutch fork axle.

· Lifting the fork slightly, remove its axle from the bushing and remove it together with the lever.

· Remove the spring clip from the fork by squeezing its ends.

· If necessary, replace the worn metal axle bushing.

· Carry out the necessary repairs, after which we carry out the installation in the reverse order.

Video: how to check a release bearing

CV joint Lada Granta

Contents of the article: 1. Replacing the outer CV joint for the Lada Granta 2. Video: “Replacing the outer and inner boot

Which clutch is better to put on Niva 21214

Name: Svetochka Reg.: 06/28/2007 Messages: 280 From: MO, South-West, village. Petrovskoye Age: 50 Car: Niva 21310, 1.7 i, power steering, 2007, quartz

At first there was the same clutch, it was activated from the floor, the car did not move at all without gas. The gas was also hard, which made the acceleration somewhat sluggish. The car in a traffic jam constantly stalled or roared. With my “talented driving” at a crossing, six months later there were already symptoms of a scorched clutch (the car was jumping), I told the mechanic at the MOT, he immediately changed it to a Valio. And the throttle cable was adjusted and lubricated. Now the colossus rides in a traffic jam on one clutch, starts with half a kick and the acceleration has become much better. With one gas pedal you can give the car different speeds, the pedal has become so gentle, I can feel the speed. I'm happy as an elephant. And traffic jams are not a problem for me now

Pricing factors

Car repairs are always accompanied by certain financial costs. In addition to purchasing a serviceable part, the car owner will have to pay the technician for the service of installing it. Therefore, today many motorists are trying to save money. To do this, they visit a number of sales locations and analyze the price range.

It is not recommended to take the cheapest spare part: most likely, its quality is low. You need to understand what factors influence cost in addition to quality. The price depends on:

• States.
• Varieties.
• Brenda.
• Originality.
• Places of purchase.
• Delivery prices.

The more famous the manufacturing company, the more its spare parts will be sold at a higher price. The better the condition of the part, the higher its value will be.

According to the control method, the clutch is:

• With hydraulic.
• With mechanical.
• With electric.
• With a combined drive type.

There are spare parts for the switching mode:

• Constantly closed.
• Not permanently closed.

Clutches are classified according to the type of friction:

• Wet (parts operate in an oil bath).
• Dry (elements operate in air).

Depending on the number of driven disks, a car part can be:

Based on the location of the pressure springs, spare parts are distinguished:

1. With a peripheral location.
2. With central diaphragm spring.

According to the condition, a spare part for a Grant can be:

• New.
• Old, restored.
• Used, unrefurbished.

Various companies produce this part. Therefore, we can highlight the clutch on the Grant:

A non-original device is sold under the following brands:

You can buy a clutch for Granta in different places. For example:

1. At the car market.
2. In the online store.
3. According to the advertisement.
4. At the parsing point.
5. At an auto parts store.

TOP 7 best clutches for VAZ (Lada)

The modern market is filled with automotive products from different companies and manufacturers. In such a situation, it is difficult to determine which clutch is best to install on a VAZ. Among the abundance of offers, there are a large number of fakes or not very successful solutions. The following problems can result from a selection error:

• unpredictable pedal behavior;
• a more severe reaction to driver manipulations;
• complexity of installation;
• knocking out of gear during acceleration;
• rapid disc wear;
• increased vibration.

Only the most common problems that arise when making the wrong choice or buying a fake are described here.

Clutch failure is a common occurrence in cars made by domestic manufacturers. Therefore, the VAZ 2115 also suffers from this problem. But few Lada owners will want to pay sky-high sums to have their clutch replaced at a service station. In this regard, we will tell you how you can do this yourself.

Replacement

a set of serviceable clutch parts for VAZ 2114; sets of spanner and socket wrenches; mandrel; jack.

Let's move on to replacement.

First of all, you need to jack up the car. An inspection hole and overpass are ideal for this purpose.

Remove the front wheels.

Disconnect the ground wire, drive and speedometer cables from the gearbox. It is not necessary to disconnect the cables, but it is worth doing for convenience.

We also disconnect the gear shift drive and the support from the gearbox side.

Use your hands to unscrew the lower casing that protects the flywheel. Inspect the condition of the flywheel. If we notice significant cracks and other defects on its surface, it means it is faulty. Remove (by hand).

Using a size 7 spanner, unscrew the bolts that secure the ball joints. As a rule, there are only 3 of them.

If we are making a complete, rather than selective, replacement, we disconnect the drive shafts from the gearbox and drain the oil. After which you can carefully remove the gearbox.

We unscrew the bolts that secure the gearbox to the cylinders. It is most convenient to use a socket wrench size 8.

Using a size 8 spanner, unscrew the bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel.

Remove the pressure and driven discs. The pressure plate is also called the basket. At this stage, you need to make sure that it is working properly. Otherwise, replacement will be required. The working surface should not have cracks or large gaps.

We pry up the ends of the return spring that secures the release bearing.

Remove the clutch, bearing and return spring. We inspect each of the parts in order to understand which ones should be replaced. We twist the bearing in our hand. If you hear a crunching or noise, the bearing is bad, we are preparing a new one for replacement.

Remove the switch plug. We treat the parts with kerosene; if any of the parts are in good condition and do not need to be replaced, we carry out a selective replacement rather than a complete one.

We clean the gearbox input shaft from various dirt and old grease.

We return (or attach a new one) the release bearing, clutch and return spring.

To center the crankshaft, insert a mandrel into its hole. Then we install the driven disk on the mandrel.

We screw it with bolts (with a spanner onto the pressure plate (basket) into the flywheel.

Further installation is carried out in reverse order.

Adjustment

Initially, it is worth measuring the pedal deviation from the norm. To do this, you need to push the drive to the maximum, then release it. It is necessary to measure the stroke length - the distance from the center of the pedal pad in its lower position, when it is resting on the floor, and in its upper position. If the deviation from the normal length is significant, the pedal should be adjusted.

Deviations from the norm can be detected without measurements. To do this, you need to place the car on a flat horizontal surface, engage first gear and, smoothly releasing the drive, start moving. If the car starts moving only at the end of pressing the pedal, debugging is necessary.

In order to adjust the drive of the VAZ 2115, it is necessary to change the length of the cable jacket. To do this, you need to loosen or tighten the two nuts with which it is attached to the bracket.

Open the hood. Remove the air filter. We find the cable and nuts that secure it to the bracket. They are located on its threaded part. Unfortunately, on the VAZ 2115 these parts are located inconveniently. When manipulating the nuts, the length of the cable jacket changes. In order to reduce the stroke, loosen the nut located inside the bracket and tighten the nut outside, and vice versa, if you need to increase it. It is important to remember that constriction, as well as weak tension, are unacceptable. When overtightened, the cable will quickly break, and if the tension is weak, the clutch will no longer disengage completely.

If the threads are rusty, you can use liquid to make the threads easier to remove. If there is none, you can use engine oil or brake fluid.

After debugging, you should check changes in the operation of the node. This should be done in the same way as during the initial check for deviation from the norm. After correct adjustment, the stroke does not exceed 135 mm. If the procedure does not lead to anything and the clutch of your VAZ 2115 continues to slip, then the element has become unusable and needs to be replaced.

Which one is better to put

Kraft has a lot of fakes, you can easily run into them. Better take LUK or VALEO, SAX has also started making counterfeits lately. Also sold in sets. Be sure to inspect the flywheel for wear. -0.1mm shortens clutch life by at least 10,000 km.

Where is the best place to make a purchase?

You can buy a Granta clutch new or old, original or non-original. The choice depends on the financial condition of the car owner and his preferences regarding the manufacturer. Car mechanics recommend installing new original parts, as they are ideal for the car.

But original spare parts are expensive. You can save a little by purchasing an analogue from another company (for example, Valeo or KraftTech). New clutches are sold in the following places:

• Auto parts store.
• Online store.
• Car market.

The first option is preferable due to reliability. In the car market there is a risk of buying a Chinese counterfeit.

Old auto parts have a short service life, but are cheaper than new ones. Motorists with a limited budget should choose such parts. Used clutches are sold on the car market, by advertisement, at a disassembly point.

What to choose

For example, some people prefer a Mercedes, while others prefer a Muscovite. In one case or another, supporters of a particular part, brand or company will find a lot of evidence in their favor. For the above reason, there is no need to compare and draw a conclusion about the best grip. As a rule, this is a matter of habit. Some people prefer a soft clutch, while others have a car with an automatic transmission, where the driver does not even know what the corresponding pedal is for.

VAZ 2109 soft clutch

One way or another, many consumers choose a clutch without taking into account advice and recommendations. They are guided solely by their own experience in operating a particular clutch. Let's look at the most famous brands of car clutch kits; you don't have to follow the recommendations, but it's still worth reading the information. The driver decides which clutch is more suitable: Valio, Kraft or Luk. Sometimes you even have to try all three brands in order to decide on the right part.

French or Korean Valeo

VAZ 2109 clutch drive

It is difficult for high-quality car parts to exist on the Russian market, since many people want to counterfeit them. This also applies to the Valio brand.

Note! A counterfeit of this brand can be immediately tracked by its relatively low cost, as well as by the quality of its constituent elements. Now on the modern market you can find French, Italian, Spanish and South Korean Valio clutch components. From France, of course, less.

Motorists who prefer this brand speak only positively about the products. This clutch is also called female, as it ensures easy and smooth operation.

VAZ 2109 clutch which one to choose

It should also be noted that it has good reliability and a significant service life. If the Valio clutch is used correctly and with care, then it will be enough for 150 thousand kilometers. The original discs are not afraid of overheating (this refers to the permissible limits), while the flywheel is characterized by practical eternity.

German meticulousness of the Luk clutch with high quality

VAZ 2109 clutch which is better

It is difficult to say how plausible the information offered is, but it is still taken into account. They conclude that today such a clutch kit is installed on every second car made in Germany and on every fourth car from another manufacturer. Of course, it is almost impossible to prove this; most likely, it is so. If we take into account the eternal formula of the marketing ratio of price plus quality, then this clutch fits well here.

The best clutch for VAZ 2109

A distinctive feature of the Onion clutch is the vibration damping characteristic of such a device. The corresponding conclusions can be drawn from the reviews of Russian motorists.

Note! Luk clutches are equipped with a special damping element for vibrations of the driven and pressure plate.

We adjust the clutch on the Lada Granta ourselves, bypassing the automation

VAZ cars use a clutch cable with automatic adjustment. The machine itself is a separate unit, which is fixed near the pedals. Clicking or crackling noises when the machine operates can be considered normal. But if the pedal begins to sink and the clutch does not disengage completely, then the automatic system will no longer help - you need to forcibly reduce the length of the cable. A threaded tip is provided for these purposes. That is, clutch adjustment on the Lada Grant can be done manually. Let's look at all the steps in more detail.

How can the clutch pedal click? Find out in the video.

Clutch kit VALEO VAZ Priora, Granta, Kalina-2, Vesta /cable gearbox VAZ 2181/

• We guarantee fast processing of your order during business hours (we work from 11-00 to 20-00, Saturday and Sunday are days off).
• We guarantee reliable packaging of your order (when sending it by Russian Post or transport company).
• We guarantee the fastest possible dispatch of your paid order (within 2-4 business days after receipt of payment).
• We guarantee a refund or exchange for another product (with recalculation) within 14 days from the date of receipt of the order (the product must be in good condition, without traces of installation, delivery costs are not reimbursed).
• We guarantee a free exchange of goods (transportation costs at our expense) if the purchased goods turn out to be defective.

Payment Methods

Delivery in Russia and abroad

Pickup in Moscow

• Description
• Reviews

APPLICABILITY: VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Lada-Priora), VAZ 2190, 2191 (Lada-Granta), VAZ 2192, 2194 (Lada-Kalina 2), LADA Vesta (LADA Vesta) with cable drive manual transmission VAZ 2181.

is one of the suppliers of clutch discs to the main conveyor
of AVTOVAZ
.
CJSC "LADA Image"
is a subsidiary of
OJSC "AVTOVAZ"
and its official distributor for the sale of spare parts for
LADA
on the domestic market, as well as in near and far abroad countries.
The main strategic goal in the work of CJSC "LADA Image"
is to provide consumers - owners of
LADA
with the necessary range of services for organizing the repair and maintenance of vehicles throughout the territory of their operation throughout their entire life cycle, including original spare parts at competitive prices, available in the right moment in time.

The device of the "VAZ" clutch cable

If you open the hood, you will notice that the cable sheath is held by bushing 5. Tip 2 is inserted into the slot of the clutch fork. Leash 1, made of plastic, can be screwed or twisted from the tip. This is how the “effective length” is adjusted.

Cable device with automatic adjustment

Automation can also adjust the length of the cable. But the limits of “auto-tuning” are small.

The ability to change the cable length “manually” was provided by the factory. And that means we must take advantage of this opportunity.

Clutch selection | Topic author: Fumo

I apologize for creating such a topic, I want to know what is better to put? I drive fast, sharply)

Alexey (Bishamon) I change the clutch every year and a half.

Alexey (Bishamon) Alexey, don’t forget to buy a release spring. It is not included in the kit. Price 5 rub. And this is a completely normal clutch. I’ve had it for two years and the flight is normal.

Alexey (Bishamon) Okay, I’ll take that into account. Thank you!

Alexey (Bishamon) And the mileage is 60 thousand, already changed twice

Dimka (Currie) They say Sachs has excellent grip, according to reviews from service workers - ETERNAL)))) I myself am thinking of installing the Kraft at a price almost half the price.

Artem (Deepa) I drive a Kraft. ok...nothing to compare with yet.

Alexey (Bishamon) There are legends on the internet about the toughness of Craft. When you have the opportunity to compare, let me know.))

Artem (Deepa) Alexey, definitely. but I hope not soon.

Aydar (Sisel) Alexey, I installed craft, for the first two days I couldn’t get going) but then I got used to it) so far everything is fine)

Alexey (Bishamon) Aidar, in the summer when it’s hot, if it starts to twitch, change it right away, don’t wait until the release valve falls apart.

Sergey (Giladah) I changed the clutch myself, I even removed and installed the box myself.. Replacing the clutch in our service costs 4000 rubles. It’s free and high quality (when I was changing it I noticed that the bolts securing the box were not tightened). And how nice it is to drive a car that you made yourself!

Alexey (Bishamon) My clutch constantly jerks in the heat. You change it, drive it for a month and it starts jerking again when you start. Could it be the flywheel?

Alexey (Bishamon) Alexey, these are either springs or a basket. As a result, the clutch still dies from this hammering. Install a normal set, don’t buy Craft or anything cheap. and forget it.

All steps from start to finish

Open the hood and find the gearbox. The starter will be located nearby. All nodes are covered with a filter that needs to be removed:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (key “10”);
2. We disconnect in turn: the mass air flow sensor connector (oval), the adsorber valve (we press the tongue from below). We also loosen and remove the fastening tie for the “thick wire”;

Getting rid of unnecessary details

A “fork” will be attached to the top of the crankcase - a bent plate with a slot. This is the clutch fork (see photo).

Found the most important detail

Using pliers wrapped in electrical tape, try to pull the tip forward.

Clutch adjustment on Lada Granta (first method)

Here we will look at how to adjust the clutch on a Lada Grant:

1. Grasping the end of the cable, pull it forward as far as it will go.
2. Using a caliper, measure the distance from the fork to the plastic leash. The distance should be exactly 27 mm.

If everything is set up and checked, measure the clutch pedal travel.

We measure the free movement distance

The distance from the “top point” to the “bottom” should not exceed 146 mm.

If at the last stage it turns out to be more than 146, then the cable needs to be replaced.

Alternative clutch adjustment method (second method)

No calipers are needed here:

1. Carry out step 1 as indicated above - pull the tip forward.
2. Let go of the tip and look: if the leash does not fit tightly to the fork, screw it onto the rod.
3. Press and release the pedal (3 times), repeat steps 1 and 2.

Achieve the following: when the pedal is not pressed, the leash should be pressed tightly against the metal, at the same time, the displacement of the fork should not be noticeable. Let the displacement be equal to 1-2 mm.

Clutch adjustment on the Lada Grant is carried out using any of two methods. And according to reviews, the need arises every 15,000-20,000 km.

Signs of clutch wear

Why the ECM detects error “P0830”, video explanation

Praise to the author! I am also a terrible car enthusiast, albeit with little experience... I also had right-hand drive ones, but unfortunately, they are not convenient with our traffic. I now have probably the most boring Toyota model. For almost 2 years of owning this car, I had no problems at all, it burned out once a light bulb in the foot, and I changed the brakes and oil according to plan, despite the fact that the car is 8 years old, the mileage is about 150 thousand. It accelerates quickly, drives smoothly, and is maneuverable. spacious trunk and for its size a very comfortable and spacious interior, dad feels completely comfortable in the back seat, and he is a large man. After a night in a windswept parking lot at minus 35, it started up and didn’t even sneeze once. The stove heats perfectly, the air conditioner cools quickly, the consumption is 6-7 liters of 92 in the city. engine 1.5. 106 horses, + with its size it will fit into any hole in the parking lot. In short, the car is just great. )))

I've been meaning to adjust the clutch on my Grant for a long time. I made a printout of your article. Tomorrow I’ll arm myself with the necessary tools and go to the garage to do everything with my own hands step by step, as described in the article.

Open the hood, under the air filter there is a clutch foot. It is equipped with a cable with a plastic screw. Lightly pressing the foot, remove the cable to the side. We adjust the cable screw and put it back on the foot.

When accelerating, the engine roars slightly when the leveler revs up

Clutch needs replacement! It's slipping!

When starting off there is jerking, what could be the problem?

Replacement clutch disc

The clutch cable broke. I went and bought a new one. Changed it. While I was driving, the clutch was soft; accidentally, in 4th gear at 90 km/h, I jumped into 3rd gear instead of 5th. But nothing. An hour later, I noticed that when changing gears, my car seemed to be giving up gas (by the sound), but in fact I don’t know what it is. The clutch pedal has free play, i.e. hanging out. And the pedal is too soft. Can there be different clutch cables on the grant?

Clutch adjustment methods

All diagnostic and adjustment work is carried out only with the engine turned off. To identify the need to adjust the friction clutch, you should perform a few simple steps. You need to press the pedal two or three times - no knocks, squeaks or other extraneous noises should be heard. The pedal should move freely, without sticking. If you suspect that the pedal is sticking, but visually everything is in order, you should perform the following manipulations:

• press the pedal all the way by hand;
• release the pedal, but do it in such a way that your hand is on it, thereby you can feel its movement, but not interfere with its progress.

Drive system design and symptoms of malfunction

The pressure mechanism is controlled by the leftmost pedal. A well-designed lever ensures easy movement of the release disc petals. In this model of machine, commands to move the fork are supplied by a cable. He “walks around” in a matching shirt. It is worth noting that an automatic cable length adjustment system is implemented here.

Symptoms of a problem

On a new car, the important pedal assembly moves easily. Violation of the factory condition requires stopping operation and identifying the reasons. Usually, along with tight movement, related symptoms occur that indicate a malfunction of the assembly module:

• Extraneous squeaks during pedal movement.
• Jerky movement of the pedal.
• The need for frequent adjustment of the idle speed of the lever.
• The machine jerks when connecting the box to the motor.

How to adjust the clutch after replacement

After replacement, it is worth adjusting the operation of the mechanism. Here you will also need an assistant. The adjustment instructions look like this:

1. While installing the clutch cable, you may notice that the pedal rises. In this case, it is necessary to adjust its stroke by turning the lock nut and the adjusting nut. It should be 12-13 centimeters.
2. To set the exact value, you need to use a ruler. Place it perpendicular to the floor, and then lock the pedal pad to the desired value. It is best to give an assistant a ruler and adjust the locknut yourself.

It will be difficult to replace the clutch without the help of another person, so arrange in advance with someone who will do this work with you.

We change the clutch on a VAZ 2115.

First, a new clutch disc is installed. It is necessary to install the clutch basket on the flywheel on top of the disc. The holes for the bolts must match.

Place several bolts into the mounting holes of the box and move it towards the engine. After the input shaft hits the hole on the clutch driven disc, guide the last bolt using a screwdriver.

The clutch basket is tightened only after the input shaft enters the disc through the starter location.

Further assembly of the structure is carried out in the opposite order of disassembly.

Clutch adjustment is performed after complete assembly.

Causes of a tight clutch pedal on a Lada Granta car and ways to eliminate the problem

Problems with a hard lever arise both on new cars and on models with an impressive mileage. Depending on the age, the nature of the problem can vary - from a banal drive wedge to serious problems with the unit connecting the engine and gearbox.

What's the matter

Often a tight clutch pedal on a Lada Granta occurs for the following reasons:

• Mediocre performance of the diaphragm spring.
• Fork jamming.
• Release bearing jamming.
• Scratches on the surface of the cable in the working braid.
• The cable is distorted in the mounting bracket to the interior pedal assembly.
• Wedging of the driven disk.

On vehicles with a long service life, cracks may appear in the bearing drive fork and on the release support guide. The accumulation of dirt in the assembly also cannot be ruled out. Damage to the cable clamp bracket should also not be discounted.

For your information. All of these problems can result from the manufacturer allowing defective parts to be installed.

How to troubleshoot

There is no point in immediately positioning the unit connecting the box and the engine as faulty. The cost of a new set of spare parts in the form of a basket, driven disk and release bearing is high, and there will be no 100% certainty that there is a problem with this module until a thorough diagnosis of the drive has been carried out.

Problems with the drive part

In 80% of cases, the culprit of a tight clutch pedal on a Lada Granta car is one of three:

1. The rope is unraveled.
2. Corrosion or dirt in the cable jacket.
3. Lack of lubrication on the fork shaft.

On a note. Checking the serviceability of the cable part is quite simple. Just squeeze the pedal and throw it. The return stroke of the lever must be fast and continuous. More detailed diagnostics are performed with the cable disconnected. The operation takes more time, but gives a clear answer to the question. You can check both the condition of the cable and its ease of movement along the jacket.

However, there are often cases when it is enough to add lubricant to the jacket, and the pedal assembly shows proper operation. As lubricating products you can choose:

• Transmission or engine oil (fill in a syringe with a needle).
• Emulsion of silicone origin in cans.
• WD-40.

Fork

The need to lubricate the fork shaft will be indicated not only by tight movement. When a command is given to the unit, a creaking sound will also be heard from under the hood. You can deal with this kind of malfunction using the following method:

• Remove the engine air filter along with the housing.
• Pry off the plastic bushing of the fork.
• Spray with silicone lubricant or WD-40.

Problems with the clutch assembly

When installing a new basket, difficult behavior of the part is inevitable.
The effect disappears after 500-1,000 km in mixed mode. If the normal functioning of the unit is not restored after running-in, an unofficial set with an increased leaf spring stiffness was probably purchased. Then there is only one way out - buy a proven set and change it again. Wear or deformation of the Lada Granta clutch fork also causes tight pedal travel and subsequent discomfort. In this case, it is necessary to act as quickly as possible, since the presence of critical defects can damage the module at the most inopportune moment.

Driving style and clutch: choosing a set

Still haven't figured out what to buy to replace the coupling? Let's look at one more aspect - driving style, because each of us prefers to move in a manner unique to him. Conventionally, we divide the number of driving styles by four. Based on reviews and operational experience, we will try to create sets of companies that would correspond to a particular driving style. Thus, we will try to answer the question, which clutch is best installed on the VAZ 2114 and why.

Calm style

This driving style provides low revs, smooth shifting and the same acceleration. Products from the following brands are suitable here:

• Luk is a reliable kit that provides smooth and comfortable shifting without jerking.
• Valeo is a comfortable kit, it shows its best sides in traffic jams, there is a good reserve of torque.

Standard style

• KraftTech is a fairly comfortable set with an average service life.
• Sachs is a moderately tight clutch for such driving with a good reserve of torque, allowing you to ride in both an active and relaxed manner.
• VIS is a domestic product of good quality, but is sensitive to clutch control experience.

Dynamic style

Involves rapid acceleration and sharp gear changes with constant clutch throwing, which operates at high speeds most of the time. In this case, the following kits are suitable:

• Pilenga – use the kit not with metal ceramics. The stiffest clutch, in order to avoid jerking, you have to raise the speed and quickly release the clutch.
• Sachs is the best kit for this type of riding, moderately tight with minimal jerking.

Verdict

Substandard behavior of the Granta pedal assembly is a malfunction that should be eliminated as soon as possible. The issue may be either in the drive, which here is a cable drive, or directly in the unit connecting the engine and the gearbox.

Most often, the problem lies in an unraveled cable or its limited mobility in the jacket. This problem can be eliminated by replacing the cable and/or lubricating it with oil, silicone or WD-40. The fork shaft often needs lubrication.

Less commonly, the problem is caused by a deformed or cracked fork. Wear on the leaf spring can radically change the amount of force required to release the pedal. A new clutch can also cause it to feel stiff.

WHICH CLUTCH KIT TO CHOOSE FOR LADA SAMARA?

It is unnecessary to give any advice to anyone who has decided to start changing the clutch on their own, having already had experience in purchasing a kit for a Lada 2107. A novice motorist probably shouldn’t take on such a task, but experienced VAZ drivers usually have an established opinion on this matter. However, the supply of information can unexpectedly fail even an experienced car enthusiast, because technology does not stand still. Therefore, information based on research results and the experience of domestic car enthusiasts will come in handy.

Reviews

Conclusion

The clutch installed on the Lada Grant is copied from the Lada Kalina. The mechanism has proven itself well, the warranty period is “nursing” (100,000 km).

A number of negative reviews about the Lada Granta are unfounded. Many unit failures are associated with violation of operating conditions, aggressive driving style, and failure to comply with technical inspection deadlines.

Often the reason for premature clutch wear is that drivers save money on monthly maintenance and purchase cheap spare parts. After all, a low-quality part cannot work for a long time without breaking.

Lada Granta is a model that was developed in order to change the negative opinion of consumers about the products of the Russian automobile industry. AvtoVAZ did not dare to stop production of its “legendary classics”, which have been produced since the times of the USSR. However, time does not stand still, and a new model has come to replace it. The Lada Granta was created on the same platform as the Lada Kalina , so they have many similar technical aspects; some units migrated from Lada Priora . But now let’s try to figure out how reliable the car turned out to be and whether it will be able to please its owners with good driving performance after 3–5 years of operation.

In 2008, a difficult year for AvtoVAZ, in order to attract buyers, it was necessary to urgently create a new model, while the costs of developing new technical solutions had to be minimal. Therefore, it was decided to develop a new car on the platform of the previously produced Lada Kalina. And already at the beginning of 2009, the first sketches appeared, on the basis of which the decision was made to launch the Lada Granta project. It took AvtoVAZ designers more than two years to create a new car. In 2011, the first Grants rolled off the production line, and in the summer of 2012, cars with automatic transmission went on sale. At the beginning of 2013, a small restyling was carried out, as a result of which the manual gearbox received a new shift mechanism and synchronizers - this ensured clearer and easier gear shifting. In the same year, production began of a restyled version of the 16-valve 1.6 engine, the power of which was increased from 98 to 106 horsepower.