VAZ 2110: repair of the ignition switch and ignition module

Good day everyone! Dear Readers and Friends! Anyone who follows the machine will be interested in how it all began and how it all ended. And so let's begin. Leaving work on Friday at about 18.00, I noticed that the ignition switch began to behave incorrectly, in fact, when turning the ignition key, it (the key) easily spun for no reason, we can say that you could turn the ignition key with your little finger .Well, okay, I think I’ll get home, buy an ignition switch and change it tomorrow. Tomorrow is Saturday and there’s no need to go anywhere, you can work on the car =) I drove calmly, nothing foreshadowed trouble, unless there was traffic jams on the Moscow Ring Road. I’m standing in another traffic jam, I’m not in a hurry I’m driving into the area when suddenly the car starts to shake, I don’t know how I give it to the gas, it seems like it starts to react and immediately stall. My first thought was that I didn’t make it to the house, the lock was probably completely closed. By that time it (the ignition key) somehow turned very easily and the key jammed .I think everything needs to be changed, some kind of coasting, or even where the starter helped the car roll at speed in order to remove the car from the road and not create a traffic jam, otherwise it’s not known how long you can stand there and listen to the screams of dissatisfied drivers. . I’m looking at auto parts nearby, oh so good, I’m thinking now I’ll buy a lock and move on. I bought a lock and new bolts for it

I quickly removed the cover without removing the old lock, I just removed the chip and decided to check it, starting, starting, starting, but the car does not respond. Immediately the thought is not in the lock, maybe the marks jumped when it was sausage. I went to look at the marks, all the marks on the box and the timing belt all match, I looked a couple of times. I went to start it again, it seemed to grab it, but it didn’t start, I turned it around several times, I saw the battery was starting to die, the starter was almost bad turn. When I turn the starter again, the computer gives me error 1602

I think the baby can change them. First of all, I changed the crankshaft sensor

, I had to go to the store to get a repair kit.

In fact, the ignition switch is nothing more than a breaker that opens or closes the groups of contacts necessary for engine operation; a malfunction of this unit will increase the chances of your car being stolen, and will also create a lot of trouble for you at the most inopportune moment.

The ignition switch of a VAZ 2115 is replaced for the following reasons: After an attempt to steal a car by breaking the ignition switch; When a car owner has lost his key; If the contact group fails or crumbles inside over time, we will need the following tools:

1-Hammer 2-Screwdriver 3-Chisel 4-Good pliers 5-10mm wrench, socket or socket, whatever you like

The ignition switch is replaced in the following way: 1. When making a replacement, use special bolts with break-away heads, which some motorists recommend replacing with twenty-millimeter M6 bolts, citing the fact that these are easier to remove if the ignition switch needs to be repaired again. Of course, this is so, but there is another side to the coin: by making it easier to disassemble the ignition switch, you yourself reduce the level of security and anti-theft protection of your car. 2. In order to loosen the bolts, you will need a chisel; when using it, you should be extremely careful so as not to accidentally cut off the bolt head; 3. Before replacing the ignition switch of the VAZ 2115, insert the key into it and turn it to position “I”, this is necessary so that the latch locking the steering shaft mechanism enters the lock body 4. After this, you can install the ignition switch on the steering wheel column, and securing it with a bracket, tighten it with new mounting bolts. 5. After removing the key from the keyhole, be sure to make sure that the steering shaft locking mechanism is working. If the shaft lock does not work after a full turn of the steering wheel, you will need to adjust the position of the ignition switch on the steering column until the lock latch fits into the groove on the steering shaft. 6. Once the adjustment is complete and the locking mechanism is working, using a 10mm spanner, carefully tighten the bolts until their heads come off. That's all for me, now we can say with confidence that replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2115. I changed the lock and went home. Second day

The next day I dropped the topic about Help on the DRIVE 2.RU website and listened to the advice and suggestions. I went to fix it. To begin with, I went to the service center to find out if they have a diagnostic tool to check the fuel system, they told me there is about 200 rubles. Only I can say that I can’t come, because it is stalling. The diagnostician tells me to check only with the car running, and not with the car turned off. In the end, I gathered my strength and drove off. I arrived, turned it off, put on a monometer, started the pressure was good

While the car was running we started talking about why and what my reason was. He told me how long it would take for it to stall. I told him 20-25 minutes. The diagnostician said let’s wait. We waited, you won’t believe it, 50 minutes, but the engine still didn’t stall. I There are no miracles in the world for a diagnostician, he happens to me =) We waited another 5 minutes and then it died out smoothly as if the fuel had run out. I tell him and you don’t happen to have an ignition module, I have it, let me check it before it stalls, if not in it, then we’ll look for the reason in something else. I quickly throw on the wires, try to start it, it won’t start, I try it a second time, it doesn’t want to, I try it a third time, everything worked like clockwork. In the end, I buy a new one from him, and he also gives me a 6-month guarantee. What will happen without will change conversations. I understand that it’s all about M.Z., if I had known that he could bear such a mentality to me, he changed it right away =))

VAZ 2115 ignition module

The MH control is performed by the Electronic Control Unit, which supplies current to the coil windings. After which a high voltage is generated (according to the law of induction) and at the required moment it is supplied to the spark plug. MZ consists of two ignition coils, two switches, four outputs to high-voltage wires and a plastic case. The ignition system uses the “Cold Spark” method - each coil is connected to two cylinders: the first - the first and fourth cylinders, the second coil - the second and third cylinders.

Reasons for replacing the ignition switch

There are 3 main reasons leading to breakdowns of this device:

• mechanical wear as a result of long-term use;
• problems with the electrical part of the lock;
• damage due to attempted break-ins and car theft.

Reference. The first troubles associated with turning on the ignition and starting the engine may appear after three years of operation of the VAZ 2110-2112.

Appearance of the ignition switch VAZ 2110—2112

Not every one of the listed reasons leads to a complete replacement of the element; sometimes you can get by with “little loss” by changing one of its parts. To determine this issue, you need to diagnose the signs of a malfunction:

1. Contacts are burnt or oxidized. In this case, the mechanical part works, but the electrical part does not. The problem is solved by cleaning or replacing the contact group.
2. The key gets stuck in the slot, after starting the engine it is not thrown back and you have to turn it by hand. These are malfunctions of the core (larvae) and the ejection spring, which can be completely repaired.
3. Obvious mechanical failures of the locking tongue (the steering wheel is very difficult to rotate), jamming or cracks in the housing are a reason to replace the entire ignition switch.

In the event of a mechanical failure, the key may not turn or may not be released by the spring.

A separate issue is the loss of all keys by the owners. It can be solved in two ways - by replacing the entire device or the key turning mechanism - the cylinder. For obvious reasons, the second option will be cheaper, especially if you do the work yourself.

Reference. As practice shows, the mechanical insides of an element can be broken by an ignorant driver who has lost his keys and is trying to unlock the steering wheel in order to start the engine by shorting the wires. There is a more elegant way - to remove the lock, and only then connect the wires of certain colors, as described below.

Checking the lock contact group with a multimeter

A faulty contact group can be easily diagnosed if you have a multimeter or other device with a resistance measurement function in your household. To do this, you need to get to the connector located under the plastic frame of the steering column and disconnect it. Then use a multimeter to measure the resistance between all contacts in the block, turning the key to different positions. Depending on the result, the following conclusions are drawn:

• the device shows infinity - the contact group is out of order and needs to be replaced;
• some resistance value indicates burnt or oxidized contacts, try to clean them;
• zero readings on the device indicate that the electrical part is fully operational.

VAZ 2110 ignition switch diagram

Important! You need to measure the resistance in the block whose wires come from the ignition switch (male connector), do not confuse it with other contacts connected to the car’s on-board network.

Basic principles

Regardless of the type of engine used, the basis of the wiring used in the VAZ 2110 car is the same. It's easy to find a diagram, but not so easy to understand.

Let's look at the basic principles of wiring.

1. All equipment and devices powered by electricity in the VAZ 2110 are based on a single-wire connection. VAZ designers specially provided for wires of certain colors to each be responsible for their own functions. Therefore, certain equipment is connected using wires of their own color. This allows you to independently understand the wiring, make it easier to carry out repair work and not spend money on car repair services.
2. The downside to the VAZ 2110 is that the mass is the car body itself.
3. The positive wire of the batteries on the top ten always comes only in red. Therefore, when making repairs, try not to change the color of the wire, so as not to confuse yourself.
4. For each system that is connected to the electrical system, it is equipped with its own separate wiring harness.
5. The VAZ 2110 is designed in such a way that when the battery is turned on, all electrics and electrical equipment are energized. This is related to the most common recommendation, which you have seen more than once in our materials, where we described the repair or replacement of certain components - disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
6. Do not forget about the existence of the so-called contactless system. This system is required to create a high-quality spark, which is simply necessary to ensure combustion of the air-fuel mixture. In order for a contactless system to function, high voltages are indispensable.

Carburetor models

The first versions of the VAZ 2110 model, which the domestic plant began to produce, were equipped exclusively with carburetor engines. Only after some time more modern injection versions appeared. They are objectively better. But this does not take away the fact that many have dozens of them under the hood with a carburetor.

Are there any significant differences in terms of electrical circuitry between a carburetor and an injector? We can say no. The carburetor systems used are almost entirely the same as on the more modern version.

Part of interior wiring

Also, you will not encounter serious problems in the form of electrical wiring if you suddenly want to replace a carburetor engine with an injection engine or equip the car with additional electrical equipment. You will even find identical plugs in the engine compartment.

The only nuance of switching from a carurator to an injector is the need to install additional wiring from the fuel pump to the on-board computer.

Injector

In addition to the wiring, which is identical for the carburetor and injector, the latter is additionally equipped with fuses and sensors.

In practice, due to the large number of regulators that ensure the operation of an electronic engine control unit of an injection type with 8 or 16 valves (there is none on the carburetor), the system turns out to be more complex. To repair it, you need to carefully understand all the components and their location.

Electrical diagram

Instructions for removing the element

For disassembly you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• 10 mm head and ratchet drive;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• narrow chisel (width 5-8 mm);
• hammer;
• round nose pliers with tapered, curved ends.

Ignition switch replacement tool

To successfully install a new or repaired lock in place, it is advisable to purchase 4 special fastening bolts with M6 threads with a head size of 10 mm and a length of 20 mm. Their feature is the heads that come off with a key at a certain tightening torque. After tearing off the heads, semicircular caps remain on the surface, which are much more difficult to unscrew for an untrained person. But you will have to do this during disassembly.

The battery must be disconnected before starting work.

Like any event related to tampering with the electrical part of the car, dismantling the ignition switch begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Then proceed in this order:

1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the two halves of the plastic frame of the steering column together.
2. Lower the handle that fixes the position of the steering wheel during adjustment all the way down and remove the plastic panels. Disconnect the ignition switch block and carefully cut the tape connecting your bundle of wires to the common harness. In order not to cling to the steering column switch during operation, it can also be pulled out of the connector.
3. On the metal casing of the steering column you will see a lock mount consisting of two clamps. They are held together by 4 bolts with the heads torn off (visible on the left side). Pointing the chisel at the semicircular caps, use a hammer to loosen the tightening of these bolts one by one.
4. Using pliers and then your hands, unscrew all 4 bolts and remove the ignition switch.

Unscrewing the plastic steering column cover

Note. There are “dozens” in which not all the bolt heads are torn off during assembly. This simplifies the matter; the fasteners can be easily unscrewed with a 10 mm socket.

Bolts with intact heads can be unscrewed with a wrench

Replacing the contact group

In the event that, as a result of diagnostics, a malfunction of the contact group is detected, you will still have to remove the ignition switch, since it will not be possible to get to it in any other way. After removing the element, disassemble it using the following algorithm:

1. Disconnect the connectors with the backlight power wires.
2. Remove the decorative plastic cover by releasing the 4 latches. Work carefully because these clips are easy to break off, and buying a cover separately is quite a task. It is not advisable to change the entire lock because of it.
3. By bending the 2 clamps holding the contact group, remove it from the ignition switch.

The plastic cover can be removed using a screwdriver

Note. You will additionally need a small flat-head screwdriver as a tool to bend the latches.

The contact group is located immediately under the cover

First of all, examine the status of the contacts. If they have darkened (oxidized), then clean the current-carrying surfaces with fine sandpaper P1000. Then put the group in place and, without installing the lock, connect it to the vehicle's on-board electrical system to check its functionality. If unsuccessful, the part must be replaced. The same will have to be done if the contacts are burnt or the group does not work without any external signs of malfunction.

The part is removed after bending two latches

VAZ injector errors

Errors can relate to any part of the car:

• Sensors Most often, temperature sensors suffer, as they can overheat too much;
• Injectors. Mostly, problems are observed due to an open circuit, as a result of which they cannot light up in time. This leads to another problem - the spark has disappeared, so the engine does not start;
• Engine. The most common mistake is overheating. Most often, due to increased oiliness, the spark plugs also overheat, so a spark does not appear. As a result, the engine does not emit any signs of life;
• Valves. They can also be too dirty, which will cause them to close, so they will not pass the fuel-air mixture;
• Fans. If they do not work correctly, the machine overheats.

Installation of a new larva

To replace the lock core due to mechanical failure, remove it from the vehicle as described above. Then follow this algorithm:

1. Insert the key into the slot and use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 halves of the lock body together.
2. Separate the housing while holding it with the key facing up. If you hold the lock in a different position during disassembly and do not insert the key, the insides will spill out and you will not understand how to put them back together. In this case, the ball with springs may get lost.
3. Remove the locking mechanism, which consists of two spring-loaded parts, and pull out the spring itself.
4. After removing the key, carefully remove the core so that the ball with the spring (located on the side of the cylinder) is not lost.

To disassemble the case, you need to unscrew 3 screws

Before replacing, it is necessary to remove the return spring from the old cylinder, since it is not sold complete with a new core. The spring is inside the part on the back side in a cocked state; it must be installed in the same form on the new cylinder. Also, do not forget to remove the thin spring from the hole where the ball is inserted.

The locking mechanism tongue peeks out from the bottom of the case

Important point. Remember that if you replace the core because it is broken, the new key will no longer fit the door lock. There are 2 options: use two separate keys or simultaneously change the cylinder in the door. The last method becomes the only applicable one when all the keys are lost.

The larva must be pulled out so as not to lose the details

When installing the core, you need to move the spring for the ball into the hole and insert the part into the body. Then push the larva all the way, while simultaneously inserting the ball into the socket. After that, all that remains is to assemble the locking mechanism and tighten the housing with screws. When finished, check the operation of the ignition switch by turning the key to different positions.

The ejection spring from the old core needs to be moved to the new one

Key position

• The main position is “0” when the system is completely de-energized;
• O will indicate that the system is active and turned on. It is possible to turn on the dimensions, headlights, direction indicators, windshield wipers, the informative instrument panel lights up, the stove heater is activated, the heated filaments of the rear window of the car glow, a lamp on the console shows the status of the units;
• Key on: the car's power unit is started. But to start the engine itself, moving the key to position “II” is not enough. You need to turn it a little further until it stops. Voltage will be supplied to the car starter, which will start the engine. After a successful start, the key will return to position “II”, the starter will turn off, and the internal combustion engine will continue to operate. Sometimes the engine does not start the first time.

How the larva changes - video

The video demonstrates how to disassemble the mechanical part of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2170 (Lada Priora), but in design it does not differ from the elements installed on VAZ 2110-2112 cars.

As a rule, there is no need to change the entire ignition switch, although car enthusiasts often resort to this option to save time. The operation will take the technician at the service station no more than 20 minutes. Replacing it yourself will require more time, but you will be able to replace only the broken part (cylinder or contact group), thereby saving personal funds.

Ignition switch VAZ 2110

When the car does not respond to turning the key in the lock, the engine does not start, the instruments do not turn on, or the key itself rotates with jamming, then repairing the VAZ 2110 ignition switch will solve the problem. There are two ways to solve this problem: replacement and repair. Repairing the lock yourself will cost less than replacing it, but replacement will probably be faster and, of course, more reliable. In any case, you shouldn’t jump to conclusions; it’s better to first find out the cause of the malfunction.

When the solenoid relay is at fault

You got behind the wheel, turned the key, the instrument panel turned on, and the fuel pump started working. You turn further, but the panel turns off and the starter is silent. You release the key, the panel lights up again and the fuel pump starts working.

First of all, check if there is voltage going to the solenoid relay. Is it coming? Try closing the starter. Refuses to turn? Disconnect the alarm system, it may also be the cause, just like the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110 itself.

Have you discovered that everything works in “independent mode”, but together it fails? This means that the solenoid relay is faulty and should be replaced.

Purpose of the lock

The lock is a breaker that opens and closes the contacts necessary to start and operate the motor. It was originally intended to protect the car from theft. Now, when car thieves are able to break into even the most complex electronic locks and new generation anti-theft systems, it has lost its significance as an anti-theft agent. The breakdown of this device creates a lot of trouble for drivers, and some even replace it with a “start” button. Let's look at how to diagnose the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110, repair or replacement, decide for yourself.

The connecting link of the whole organism

There is a misconception among most car owners that the main thing in a car is the engine, transmission, and chassis. Someone will ask, why is it wrong? It is necessary to consider the machine as a single, whole organism. And all components and assemblies are exclusively components.

For example, a breakdown of the starting system will lead to the fact that the vehicle will stop and will not be able to continue moving. Requires prompt repair. How well the example was chosen is the topic of today’s article. However, whether or not the reader agrees with my statement is up to him to decide individually.

Determining faults

To identify faults in the lock, it is enough to test it (check it with a tester), to do this:

• Remove the terminals from the battery
• Unscrew the casing around the steering column
• Disconnect the lock connector
• We insert the key and use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of its contacts when switching modes 1, 2, 3 using the key
• When the ignition switch is fully operational, the resistance of the contacts we have selected should be zero

Using a tester we check the resistance of the lock contacts

Let's consider circuits that open and close at different key positions; in the photo below the table we show a diagram:

Board layout and layout

For the entire Lada line, the lock is located on the right side of the steering wheel, sewn into a plastic box, presented in the form of a complete block made of duralumin alloy. On the back side there is a board with contact connectors (8 in total). The contact group of wires has strictly its purpose, the diagram (pinout) is as follows:

1. Key microswitch;
2. Driver's door weight;
3. Circuit for starter to supply “plus”;
4. 12 W. for supply to the starting system;
5. Zero on the key when it is in the keyhole;
6. Illuminated lock slot;
7. Voltage directly from the battery;
8. Reserve socket for connecting other devices at the driver’s discretion.

Removing the lock

After we have checked the condition of the lock using the electrical diagram, it is time to remove the ignition switch from the VAZ 2110; it is more convenient to carry out repairs with the lock removed:

• And so we have already removed the terminals from the battery, as well as the plastic covers from the steering column (to do this, unscrew the fastening screws from below)
• Disconnect under the steering switches (to do this, simply unclip the latches) and take a simple tool - a hammer, chisel and pliers
• For greater safety, the bolts securing the ignition switch have sheared heads.
• Therefore, you will have to unscrew them using a chisel and hammer

Unscrew the lock bolts using a chisel and hammer

• Now you can unscrew the bolts with pliers
• Remove the bracket from the column
• Remove the ignition switch

Dismantling the lock

To replace the backlight bulb:

• Disconnect the connector
• Remove the light bulb socket using small pliers

To replace a contact group:

• Use a screwdriver to remove the latches
• Then we remove the entire contact group

To change the micro switch:

• You need to unscrew three screws using a Phillips screwdriver
• Remove the rod
• Press the latch
• We take out the micro switch

We remind you that the ignition switch has its own catalog number 2110-3704005 or KZ-881, in case you buy a new one. After the repair, we screw everything back in the reverse order; we recommend screwing the lock with bolts that have break-away heads, so as not to make it easier for thieves.

Replacing the lock cylinder

Sometimes troubles arise when the key turns poorly or is poorly inserted into the lock. The problem is solved by replacing the cylinder, the price of which is less than the full cost of the complete lock; for this you will need:

• Hammer
• Pliers
• Chisel
• Thin drill bit and drill
• Phillips screwdriver
• Thin screwdriver
• New larva with keys

Let's start replacing

Our instructions will help you replace the lock cylinder without any problems:

• We carry out all the steps, as in the previous article, de-energize the electrical system of the machine, remove the covers from the column
• You can start replacing the lock cylinder now without removing the lock itself
• To do this, you just need to pull out the side pin that holds it in the lock.
• For this we need a clock screwdriver, we knock out the pin by tapping it with a hammer
• When the pin cannot be removed so easily, you can drill out the cylinder using a drill and a thin drill bit
• To remove the lock before proceeding to replace the cylinder, then first unscrew the bolts that secure the ignition switch
• Their heads are cut off, so use a hammer and chisel, then pliers
• Then the bracket and the ignition switch itself are removed from the steering column, do not forget to disconnect the electrical connector
• We unscrew the screw securing the relay, pull it out from under the panel, then disconnect the connector
• Disconnect the ground wires from the relay
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screw and press out the latch
• Now remove the cover and group of contacts
• Removing the lock
• We take out the larva as described above
• We make a replacement
• Before putting the ignition switch in place, you need to insert the key into it and turn it to position “I” so that the latch, which will block the steering shaft mechanism, is hidden in the lock body
• We install the ignition switch on the steering column together with the fastening bracket and tighten the new bolts that have breakaway heads with the “10” key. We remove the key and check the operation of the steering shaft locking mechanism
• If the shaft does not lock, then it is necessary to adjust the location of the ignition switch relative to the steering column so that the lock latch fits exactly into the groove of the steering shaft
• Then tighten the breakaway bolts until the breakaway heads break off.

Problems with the ignition module

The ignition module is an electronic analogue of a distributor (see VAZ distributor design: the difference between contact and non-contact ignition systems and ignition timing adjustment) and an ignition coil. A faulty module can fail at the wrong moment, according to the famous law of meanness. Checking it and identifying malfunctions will take no more than an hour, but it will allow you to determine the approach of serious problems in time.

VAZ2110 ignition module

• The main symptom of a module malfunction is the absence of a spark in one or several cylinders at once.
• In this case, the engine stalls or does not start at all.
• The second common phenomenon is a failure in the timing of the ignition cycle, due to which it is impossible to coordinate the interaction of the piston and gas distribution system with the module
• There are several methods for identifying module malfunctions

Checking for a spark

This method is most suitable for testing the module in “field” conditions. However, it requires having at least one new spark plug on hand in your car's inventory:

• One by one, remove the spark plug caps from the cylinder head cover, insert a new spark plug, which we ground to ground or to the body
• We rotate the starter, if there is no spark, then the problem does not lie in the spark plugs, and we should continue to study the ignition system
• Let's try to replace the armor wire on the cap on which there is a lack of spark.
• All wires are numbered on the module cover, so remove the wire from the non-working contact and put it on the working one (let's swap them)
• Thus, we will check the condition of the connecting contacts themselves and the integrity of the core
• If a spark appears after changing a non-working wire to a working one, then the problem was in the wire
• If the problem remains, it means that for the VAZ 2110, repair of the ignition module is inevitable, or replacement if repair is impossible
• If there is a complete absence of spark on all spark plugs, it means failure of the module or its high-voltage coil
• In cars with fuel injection, the electronic system that controls the ignition and fuel distribution may be damaged, signs of such a failure as if the ignition module breaks down
• To repair the module you will need a screwdriver, a soldering iron and spare parts, if you have nowhere to rush, then you can sit at home and calmly disassemble it and re-solder it, after watching a video on this issue
• It is often much faster to replace the ignition module or high-voltage armor wires with similar ones purchased or temporarily removed from a car of the same brand
• Replacement does not take long, the module can be removed easier than a distributor, the cylinder numbers are always marked on it
• This operation allows you to determine general faults of the entire system without unnecessary effort in some cases

That's all, we wish you success in self-repair and troubleshooting.