Please advise, Friends, has such an insidious situebinka happened to anyone? I drive up in a carriage to my estate, move the light-switching circle to the off position, take out the golden key from the steering column lock, leave the carriage without thinking about the bad... and then... A treacherous incident - the headlights are on for my neighbors. manipulations with the light switch (twist) and turns of the gold key do not lead to anything (only the emblem on the panel lights up and goes out depending on the position of the key, it does not depend on the knob). I was seriously scared, scratched my turnip in the parietal area, and tapped on the panel in the area of the fuse block. I didn't achieve any results. Then I pushed out the unfortunate relekha, the insidious light went out. I stuck in the place of the insidious non-insidious one, pulled out from the distant light. The device, assembled as it should by Ivan Rukozhopov, started working. I also calmed down. But today a new test fell on my back, the same crap repeated itself. In general, the question is, what could be faulty besides the relay? I don’t want to realize one day that my light bulb battery has been eaten! There was such a situation on the seven, it was solved by hitting the hood with a fist in the area of the fuse box. Apparently the relay was stuck. Apparently it sticks here too, but how is it that both stick? or go to the store and buy another heel of relays? or what can cause them to stick? There is no point in going to the service center because... The problem is not constant, it happens a couple of times a week, it happens less often. that is, when I go to the service center, everything works. The pattern of occurrence of the insidious situebina cannot be traced.
I understand that there is nothing unusual here for VasyaAvosZavod. Today I’ll go to the store with a basket to buy some relish.
Algorithm of operation of the LCM (light control module)
The correct low beam algorithm for the Lada Granta is as follows.
When you move the switch to low beam headlights on the MCM (light control module), the green indicator on the instrument panel will light up and the low beam lamps will turn on. If the switch is set to the low beam position with the ignition off, the headlights will turn on.
If, when the ICU is turned on to the low beam position, the warning light on the panel lights up, but the headlights do not light, then the low beam has broken down.
Low beam headlight warning lamp
In a situation where the low beam headlights do not turn off when moving the MUS switch to another position, the following may be at fault:
- The light control module itself. Quite a common occurrence among Grantmakers.
- The contact relay is broken.
The whole problem with the situation is that even with the ignition off, the low beam will be on. Grant drivers have already drained batteries this way when, after driving along the highway, they turned off the low beams and went about their business (to have lunch, to the toilet).
Contact relay failure
If you have this problem, you should start troubleshooting with the contact relay.
Location of the contact relay in the mounting block
- Open the fuse box (mounting block).
- We take out the relay number K9.
- It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
- Reinsert the contact relay.
- Checking the low beam operation.
If the low beam stops “sticking”, then the problem turns out to be in the contact relay.
Important advice. If the contact relay breaks down, the high beam may also stick. High beam relay in the mounting block numbered K7.
Light control module failure
Light control module on Grant
If replacing the contact relay does not bring results, then the MCM (light control module) is most likely to blame. In this case, it will need to be replaced. Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model. The cost of this spare part is about 900 rubles.
The nature of such a breakdown is as follows. When the indicator switches to “O”, the low beam does not turn off, but if you click the switch to different modes, the low beam will go out.
Similar problem on Lada Priora
Since I had almost the same problem in the past, but only on a Lada Priora car, I immediately began to blame the contact relay. In that case, my high beams were stuck. You blink your long-range when you see a “traffic cop with a radar” in ambush, and then you drive on the long-range, since it doesn’t turn off.
In this case, it helped to blink the distant eyes several times, but this method did not always work. Then, when such a problem arose, I simply took out the relay, knocked on it a couple of times, and inserted it back. This method of collective farm repairs helped for about six months. To be fair, the relay should have been replaced immediately, but as soon as the problem went away, I happily forgot about it.
Fuse box
The fuse box in Grant is located to the left of the steering column, near the light switches. To remove the cover and access the fuses and relays, pull the top left side of the cover towards you. It’s made conveniently, everything is at hand and you don’t have to climb anywhere when getting up from the driver’s seat. Maybe this is a hint that they will often have to be changed, or maybe just convenience - the developers know better.
F1 (15 A) - engine control unit, injectors, ignition coil, cooling fan relay, short circuit 2x2.
If you have problems with electronics, and replacing this fuse does not help, in the worst case scenario, you will have to reflash the ECU or replace it. Also, if this fuse blows, the injectors and ignition coil stop working, which makes engine operation impossible. Therefore, if the Grant does not start, check this fuse first.
F2 (30 A) - electric windows.
If they do not work and replacing the fuse does not help, try unplugging it completely or removing the terminal from the battery for a couple of minutes, then connect it again. In this way, all temporary errors should be reset and if this is the case, the power windows will work again.
F3 (15 A) - alarm . If it doesn’t work, check this fuse, as well as the emergency light button, its contacts and the functionality of the lamps.
F4 (20 A) - windshield wiper, airbag . If the airbag warning light on the instrument panel comes on, check this fuse. The problem could be either in it, or in the electronic unit, or in the pillows themselves.
If the windshield wiper does not work and this fuse is intact, also check relay K6, the power handle, the reliability of the connectors connected to it, as well as the electric wiper drive itself.
F5 (7.5 A) - terminal 15 of the ignition switch. If you have problems turning on the ignition, check this fuse, as well as the reliability of the wire connections to the lock terminals.
F6 (7.5 A) - reverse lamp . If it does not work, but this fuse is intact, check the lamp itself, as well as the contacts connecting the connectors to the headlight.
F7 (7.5 A) - Mass air flow sensor, adsorber valve, oxygen sensor, speed sensor . If the engine runs erratically, does not idle, or stalls spontaneously, the problem may be this fuse or the corresponding sensor. We already had an article on how to check the mass air flow sensor.
F8 (30 A) - heated rear window . If it does not work, check this fuse, the terminals connecting the wires to the heater, and the integrity of its elements.
F9 (5 A) - right side lamps
F10 (5 A) - left side lamps . If the dimensions do not light up, the problem may be in these fuses or in the lamps themselves, as well as their connectors. It wouldn't hurt to check the headlight switch on the dashboard.
F11 (5 A) - rear fog lights . If they do not work, but this fuse is intact, the problem may be in the switch on the dashboard or in the lamps themselves, as well as their connectors
F12 (7.5 A) - right low beam lamp F13 (7.5 A) - left low beam lamp . If the low beam does not work in two headlights at the same time, the problem may be in the K9 relay, or in the low beam switch and its contacts. If only one lamp does not light, it is most likely the fuse or the lamp itself that needs to be replaced.
F14 (10 A) - right high beam lamp F15 (10 A) - left high beam lamp . If both high beam headlights do not work, the problem may be in relay K7. If there is only one, replace the fuse and/or lamp.
F16 (10 A) - Front right fog lamp
F17 (10 A) - Front left fog lamp . If they do not work, check the switch on the dashboard and its contacts. If one fog light does not work, the lamp is most likely burned out and needs to be replaced.
F18 (15 A) - heated front seats . If it does not work, but the fuse is intact, check the heating button on the dashboard.
Why do the headlights on the grant not turn off?
Please advise, Friends, has such an insidious situebinka happened to anyone? I drive up in a carriage to my estate, move the light-switching circle to the off position, take out the golden key from the steering column lock, leave the carriage without thinking about the bad... and then... A treacherous incident - the headlights are on for my neighbors. manipulations with the light switch (twist) and turns of the gold key do not lead to anything (only the emblem on the panel lights up and goes out depending on the position of the key, it does not depend on the knob). I was seriously scared, scratched my turnip in the parietal area, and tapped on the panel in the area of the fuse block. I didn't achieve any results. Then I pushed out the unfortunate relekha, the insidious light went out. I stuck in the place of the insidious non-insidious one, pulled out from the distant light. The device, assembled as it should by Ivan Rukozhopov, started working. I also calmed down. But today a new test fell on my back, the same crap repeated itself. In general, the question is, what could be faulty besides the relay? I don’t want to realize one day that my light bulb battery has been eaten! There was such a situation on the seven, it was solved by hitting the hood with a fist in the area of the fuse box. Apparently the relay was stuck. Apparently it sticks here too, but how is it that both stick? or go to the store and buy another heel of relays? or what can cause them to stick? There is no point in going to the service center because... The problem is not constant, it happens a couple of times a week, it happens less often. that is, when I go to the service center, everything works. The pattern of occurrence of the insidious situebina cannot be traced.
I understand that there is nothing unusual here for VasyaAvosZavod. Today I’ll go to the store with a basket to buy some relish.
On a Lada Granta car, a fairly common problem occurs when the low beam does not turn off, even after turning off the ignition. How to deal with this is described in detail in this article.
How to remove protection?
To independently remove the protection (reboot) in the EMM block, AVTOVAZ has issued a special instruction. In short, it says that to remove the blocking, it is enough to apply +12 volts to the 3rd contact (free) of the white block of the block for 2-3 seconds with the ignition on, and then reset the errors of the comfort block controller. After this, performance should be restored.
Detailed instructions for removing protection:
- Remove the glove compartment lid to gain access to the comfort unit.
- Connect a connector with a wire at least 50 cm long to the free pin 3 of the white block.
- Apply +12V to the other end, for example from the green wire of the glove compartment lighting block.
- Turn on the ignition for 3 seconds.
- Turn off the ignition and remove the installed circuit, returning everything to its original state.
- Reset the EMM unit errors using a Grade-X scanner (or any other available method).
- Check the functionality of the circuits.
There is a more humane way - you can remove the protection using a special Grade-X scanner, which is now available at official Lada dealers. It is enough to find the corresponding parameters in the list that are responsible for unlocking the right and left sides of the car, respectively. After activation and complete reset of the unit, lighting functionality is usually restored.
If these instructions do not bring the desired result, this indicates that one or more driver channels are damaged. In this case, there are two options for eliminating the malfunction - repairing the unit or replacing it with a new one. If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, then you can easily figure out the circuit diagram of the unit and, using inexpensive attachments (installing additional relays), cheaply repair the electronics. If it is possible to purchase new driver chips, then repairing the unit will come down to replacing them.
For those interested, we provide sample diagrams for repairs using the installation of an additional relay.
As a conclusion, it is worth noting that interfering with normally functioning car components is always fraught with unexpected problems, and before replacing a simple working light bulb, think 10 times - whether all this will result in expensive repairs and a lot of wasted time.
Algorithm of operation of the LCM (light control module)
The correct low beam algorithm for the Lada Granta is as follows.
When you move the switch to low beam headlights on the MCM (light control module), the green indicator on the instrument panel will light up and the low beam lamps will turn on. If the switch is set to the low beam position with the ignition off, the headlights will turn on.
If, when the ICU is turned on to the low beam position, the warning light on the panel lights up, but the headlights do not light, then the low beam has broken down.
Low beam headlight warning lamp
In a situation where the low beam headlights do not turn off when moving the MUS switch to another position, the following may be at fault:
- The light control module itself. Quite a common occurrence among Grantmakers.
- The contact relay is broken.
The whole problem with the situation is that even with the ignition off, the low beam will be on. Grant drivers have already drained batteries this way when, after driving along the highway, they turned off the low beams and went about their business (to have lunch, to the toilet).
Contact relay failure
If you have this problem, you should start troubleshooting with the contact relay.
Location of the contact relay in the mounting block
- Open the fuse box (mounting block).
- We take out the relay number K9.
- It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
- Reinsert the contact relay.
- Checking the low beam operation.
If the low beam stops “sticking”, then the problem turns out to be in the contact relay.
Important advice. If the contact relay breaks down, the high beam may also stick. High beam relay in the mounting block numbered K7.
Light control module failure
Light control module on Grant
If replacing the contact relay does not bring results, then the MCM (light control module) is most likely to blame. In this case, it will need to be replaced. Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model. The cost of this spare part is about 900 rubles.
The nature of such a breakdown is as follows. When the indicator switches to “O”, the low beam does not turn off, but if you click the switch to different modes, the low beam will go out.
Similar problem on Lada Priora
Since I had almost the same problem in the past, but only on a Lada Priora car, I immediately began to blame the contact relay. In that case, my high beams were stuck. You blink your long-range when you see a “traffic cop with a radar” in ambush, and then you drive on the long-range, since it doesn’t turn off.
In this case, it helped to blink the distant eyes several times, but this method did not always work. Then, when such a problem arose, I simply took out the relay, knocked on it a couple of times, and inserted it back. This method of collective farm repairs helped for about six months. To be fair, the relay should have been replaced immediately, but as soon as the problem went away, I happily forgot about it.
Power fuses
The power fuse box is located under the hood and is located between the battery, strut support and coolant reservoir. Looks like a vertically mounted box. By removing the top cover, access to the power fuses appears.
F1 (50 A) - electric power steering . If the steering wheel turns hard, also check fuse F32.
F2 (30 A) - heater fan
F3 (60 A) - generator . If the battery discharges quickly or the discharge lamp is on, check this fuse, as well as the operation of the generator itself and its brush.
F4 (60 A) - generator
F5 (30 A) - low beam headlights . Also check relay K9 and fuses F12, F13.
When troubleshooting any electrical problems, use caution. Replace fuses and relays only with the engine off and the ignition off.
If your fleet contains not only Grants, you can also read about Kalina fuses and relays.
The Light Doesn't Go Out!
Every modern car is equipped with lighting. In other words, car lighting is designed to illuminate the road and convey information about the car.
If you are looking for information about car lighting, be sure to watch the videos offered on our website.
- Low and high beam
Hyundai Solaris low beam - high beam. Relay RS-527 for VAZ (low and high beam). Photo. Installed xenon fogs. Hyundai Solaris near.
H1 low beam
LED lamps CL3 “freeze”. H4 LED bulbs for headlights. Photo. LED lamps CL3 frost. Trial .
Fine for not turning on low beam headlights
Ambush Zholpola highway Shchuchinsk - Astana behind the payment point. Low beam headlights (Dai, Dps, Traffic police). Photo. But for the speed.
How to improve low beam
Rogue tuning - tuning headlights on Tavria, Slavuta, sens (S01E07). H4 lamp test. Photo. Rogue Tuning is a series in which.
Diodes for low beam?
LED headlight led 27w 9 diodes 3w each Epistar low beam. Headlights (diode mt-g2). Photo. LED beam 27w - 9 .
DOMOSTROYPlumbing and construction
- Thursday, December 12, 2022 1:08
- Author: Sereg985
- Comment
- Category: Construction
- Link to post
- https://firmmy.ru/
Greetings to all readers!
It seems to me that this post will be useful to all Nivovods without exception. Probably everyone is familiar with the fact that sometimes you forget in a hurry to turn off the headlights or the low beam. This is especially pronounced in summer or in bright sunshine, when the light from headlights or sidelights is not noticeable. And leaving the light on can seriously strain the battery.
Here's what I had at first:
This option does not suit me at all! It’s much more convenient for me to turn off the ignition - both the low beam and the dimensions turn off.
But first, in order.
Let's start with our neighbor! What do we need to implement this idea? Money - 0 rubles. Time - 5-20 minutes. Electrical knowledge - 0%.
First, remove the terminal from the battery.
Then remove the steering wheel cover (unscrew the 4 bolts).
We find the contacts on the back of the ignition switch. The diagram is just to give you an idea. The color inscriptions do not correspond to reality.
In order for the low beam to go out when the ignition is turned off, but the dimensions remain, you need to move the blue and black wire coming to the “INT” contact of the ignition switch to contact “15” (blue wire).
The “INT” contact remains free. By the way, the permanent plus on the “INT” contact can be used to connect a radio, rather than powering it from the cigarette lighter.
Here's what I got:
But I didn’t stop there either. Then we turn off the dimensions.
What do we need to implement this idea? Money - 100 rubles. Materials: four-pin relay, socket for it, wire, terminals. Time - 30-60 minutes. Electrical knowledge - 0%.
First, remove the terminal from the battery.
We remove the “beard” and disconnect the block from the light switch. We find a black wire with a white stripe. He is responsible for the dimensions. We cut this wire and install the terminals.
I used these terminals:
We introduce a four-pin relay.
To ensure that the wires were held properly, I used the appropriate block.
The relay was implemented according to the following scheme:
We take the plus for the relay from the fan switch button (yellow with a blue stripe).
This is what I ended up with!
Thanks to all! Click “Like” and “Recommend” They don’t bite) Perhaps someone is looking for exactly this) It’s not difficult for you, but I’m very pleased!
On a Lada Granta car, a fairly common problem occurs when the low beam does not turn off, even after turning off the ignition. How to deal with this is described in detail in this article.
Lamps for increased visual comfort
Although the standard lamps with a yellowish dull tint in the running light system may still remain in good working order, many Lada Granta owners strive to immediately replace them with halogen ones with bright white light. The reason for this is to increase visual comfort. It is also noted that this can emphasize the exterior profile of the car.
Comparison of DRL lamps - the photo shows a standard (installed from the manufacturer) and a luxury lamp
Halogen bulbs from the following manufacturers are very popular among car enthusiasts:
- Philips.
- Lighthouse.
- OSRAM.
- IPF.
- General Electric and some others.
Like other modifications, halogen lamps for DRLs still have the same characteristic number of disadvantages. First of all, this is increased heating and, because of this, the shelf life decreases with increasing power. For this reason, when choosing such sources for the Lada Granata, you should take into account that they can be produced in two versions:
Light Day.
The first option meets all legal requirements, but at the same time has average durability. The second one is more economical and, although it does not shine as brightly, it lasts longer.
Algorithm of operation of the LCM (light control module)
The correct low beam algorithm for the Lada Granta is as follows.
When you move the switch to low beam headlights on the MCM (light control module), the green indicator on the instrument panel will light up and the low beam lamps will turn on. If the switch is set to the low beam position with the ignition off, the headlights will turn on.
If, when the ICU is turned on to the low beam position, the warning light on the panel lights up, but the headlights do not light, then the low beam has broken down.
Low beam headlight warning lamp
In a situation where the low beam headlights do not turn off when moving the MUS switch to another position, the following may be at fault:
- The light control module itself. Quite a common occurrence among Grantmakers.
- The contact relay is broken.
The whole problem with the situation is that even with the ignition off, the low beam will be on. Grant drivers have already drained batteries this way when, after driving along the highway, they turned off the low beams and went about their business (to have lunch, to the toilet).
Contact relay failure
If you have this problem, you should start troubleshooting with the contact relay.
Location of the contact relay in the mounting block
- Open the fuse box (mounting block).
- We take out the relay number K9.
- It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
- Reinsert the contact relay.
- Checking the low beam operation.
If the low beam stops “sticking”, then the problem turns out to be in the contact relay.
Important advice. If the contact relay breaks down, the high beam may also stick. High beam relay in the mounting block numbered K7.
Light control module failure
Light control module on Grant
If replacing the contact relay does not bring results, then the MCM (light control module) is most likely to blame. In this case, it will need to be replaced. Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model. The cost of this spare part is about 900 rubles.
The nature of such a breakdown is as follows. When the indicator switches to “O”, the low beam does not turn off, but if you click the switch to different modes, the low beam will go out.
Similar problem on Lada Priora
Since I had almost the same problem in the past, but only on a Lada Priora car, I immediately began to blame the contact relay. In that case, my high beams were stuck. You blink your long-range when you see a “traffic cop with a radar” in ambush, and then you drive on the long-range, since it doesn’t turn off.
In this case, it helped to blink the distant eyes several times, but this method did not always work. Then, when such a problem arose, I simply took out the relay, knocked on it a couple of times, and inserted it back. This method of collective farm repairs helped for about six months. To be fair, the relay should have been replaced immediately, but as soon as the problem went away, I happily forgot about it.
Because You are not logged in. To come in.
Because The topic is archived.
Problems with the instrument panel
Errors on the Lada Granta instrument panel usually occur when it malfunctions. In this case, some of the devices fail, or the entire panel fails.
- The sensors on the Lada Granta instrument panel do not work correctly - for example, a light comes on when the doors are closed. This indicates that the indicator has failed, or the problem is a faulty instrument panel board. The sensor needs to be replaced, and you can try to reflash the board.
- When the sensors are working, all the indicators do not light up - most likely the fuse for the Lada Granta instrument panel has failed. It is also worth using a multimeter to check for damage to the wiring.
- One or more lamps on the panel do not light up - it is necessary to remove the panel and replace all failed elements.
- The indicator does not display the current state - for example, the high beam is on, but the light is not on. It is worth checking the contacts, the functionality of the sensor itself, and replacing the lamp.
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The low beam headlights of the Lada Granta do not turn off
Please advise, Friends, has such an insidious situebinka happened to anyone? I drive up in a carriage to my estate, move the light-switching circle to the off position, take out the golden key from the steering column lock, leave the carriage without thinking about the bad... and then... A treacherous incident - the headlights are on for my neighbors. manipulations with the light switch (twist) and turns of the gold key do not lead to anything (only the emblem on the panel lights up and goes out depending on the position of the key, it does not depend on the knob). I was seriously scared, scratched my turnip in the parietal area, and tapped on the panel in the area of the fuse block. I didn't achieve any results. Then I pushed out the unfortunate relekha, the insidious light went out. I stuck in the place of the insidious non-insidious one, pulled out from the distant light. The device, assembled as it should by Ivan Rukozhopov, started working. I also calmed down. But today a new test fell on my back, the same crap repeated itself. In general, the question is, what could be faulty besides the relay? I don’t want to realize one day that my light bulb battery has been eaten! There was such a situation on the seven, it was solved by hitting the hood with a fist in the area of the fuse box. Apparently the relay was stuck. Apparently it sticks here too, but how is it that both stick? or go to the store and buy another heel of relays? or what can cause them to stick? There is no point in going to the service center because... The problem is not constant, it happens a couple of times a week, it happens less often. that is, when I go to the service center, everything works. The pattern of occurrence of the insidious situebina cannot be traced.
I understand that there is nothing unusual here for VasyaAvosZavod. Today I’ll go to the store with a basket to buy some relish.
Did you like the article? Follow our channel for new ideas of useful car tips. Subscribe to us in Yandex.Zen. Subscribe.
During operation, maintenance and minor repairs are required, which makes it at least unreasonable to go to a car service center. In this review, we will look at how to change the low beam bulb on a Grant, plus we will figure out how to troubleshoot some problems and how to adjust the position of the headlights without outside help. After reading the information below, you will see for yourself that there is nothing complicated in all this work.
Daytime running lights (DRL)
Is installing daytime running lights (DRLs) yourself a retrofit of the car and how does it affect the deterioration of road safety?
What are DRLs? These are additional light sources installed in front of the car and serve to increase its visibility on the road during the day.
The main advantage of DRLs is that they are much more economical than low beam headlights due to the fact that they are based on LEDs, and therefore consume less fuel. From 2011 all new cars will be equipped with such lights.
The Technical Regulations on the safety of wheeled vehicles, together with UNECE Regulation No. 87, determine the requirements for DRLs. Firstly, they must occupy an area of 25 to 200 sq. cm and emit light with an intensity of 400 to 800 cd. Secondly, DRLs must be installed no lower than 250 and no higher than 1500 mm. The minimum distance between a pair of lights is 600 mm, and from the edge no further than 400 mm. Third, the DRLs must be turned on when the engine is started, and turned off when the headlights are turned on, except in cases where the flashing of the headlights is used to provide short-term warning lights.
And by the way, they don’t need adjustment, like high beams, so as not to blind oncoming cars.
We also note that in Kazakhstan, independent installation of DRLs refers to re-equipment that must be legalized by the police.
The procedure for making a note about the installation of DRLs is as follows: come to the technical supervision department of the UAP, submit an application for re-equipment, install the lighting devices at a specialized service station, receive a certificate from the service station (act, conclusion) about the work, come to the technical supervision department of the UAP for inspection and obtain permission to enter a mark in the SRTS (registration passport). Afterwards, you can go to the REP at your place of residence or a special service center to replace the SRTS.
Daytime running lights (DRL)
According to ST RK 1418-2005, re-equipment of motor vehicles is the introduction of changes to their design by eliminating the provided or installing unspecified components and pieces of equipment, as a result of which their properties, parameters and technical characteristics specified by the manufacturer change: - body type, engine; — availability of special non-removable equipment; — number and placement of passenger seats, fuel tanks; — dimensions and weight parameters; — engine model, its weight and power; — fuel supply system, brake system; — quantity, installation locations, viewing angles, light and color characteristics of lighting and light signaling devices; — chassis, steering, as well as structural components that provide visibility, visibility, passive and post-accident safety.
Recommendations for use
To prevent big problems from arising and fix minor problems when it's easiest to do so, you need to follow a few simple rules:
Also, you should not drive with damaged headlight lenses, as this will allow moisture to get inside and the internal elements will deteriorate.
You shouldn’t skimp on quality either - a low price is most often an indication of low reliability, and in the end you will still overpay due to frequent replacements
Advice! When choosing a paw or any other element from the electrical equipment system, you must be guided not only by the seller’s advice, but also by information from the Internet, for example, on our portal there are descriptions of most manufacturers, which is very convenient.
Spontaneous alarm activation
Environmental Impact on Electronics
There are times when a relay or some contacts fail due to the fact that the car has been standing outside for a long time in the rain or snow. Usually the hood switches suffer. For those who don’t know, limit switches are buttons that are pressed by the hood when closing, and the alarm system remembers the position of these buttons and sees whether the hood is closed or open.
If these contacts are exposed to moisture and other dirt for a long time, they will begin to oxidize and then rust. This will lead to incorrect operation and the siren will turn on for no reason, because it will think that the hood is open. If you change the limit switch, the problem will be solved.
Sensors requiring repair
The system is equipped with a shock sensor, which is very sensitive to the slightest impacts, and sometimes can even respond to strong gusts of wind. To prevent the shock sensor from reacting to such little things, you just need to adjust the sensitivity parameters.
Tilt sensors and other sensors may also fail. But determining on your own which specific sensor has failed is quite difficult, because they are scattered throughout the entire area of the car. Therefore, it is better to immediately contact specialists.
The alarm stopped opening and closing the doors
There are times when the car is locked and armed, but when you press open, the “open” indicator on the key fob lights up, but the central locking is still closed. You need to listen to see if the central locking is working; if it works, then you need to check the fuses in the control unit.
If the 10A fuse, which is located in front of the locking relay, has blown, it has a red head, then this will be the reason for the sudden activation of the siren. You also need to check the wires for integrity; there are times when they break in cold weather.
If the solenoids in the doors do not work, then you need to check the limit switches that are installed on the doors, maybe there is something wrong with them.
After checking, if it turns out that everything is normal with the fuses, then you need to check the central locking drive, usually it is located in the driver's door. It is possible that the traction from the driver's door lock to the central alarm lock has been disrupted. This problem can also be eliminated at the service station mechanically.
Review of work features
First, let's look at the simplest case and figure out how to replace a low-beam lamp on a Grant, then we'll tell you how to troubleshoot some problems, and we'll describe how to adjust the light yourself; the instructions are so simple that anyone can handle it.
Replacing light bulbs
The low beam lamp of the Lada on Granta is universal, that is, it serves both high and low beam. The 60/55 Watt option is used (that is, the power of the high beam spiral is 60, and the low beam is 55), the lamp type is H4. This is the option you need to purchase before starting work.
The process itself is quite simple, and replacing the low beam bulb on a Lada Granta is done very quickly:
- First, remove the terminal from the battery and fix the hood in the open position.
- Next, press the latch of the plastic plug on the headlight and open it.
- Under the cover you will see a block with wires; it must be carefully disconnected and moved to the side.
Important! Do not pull on the wires as you may break the connections. Always grip the pad body.
- Next, remove the rubber plug, which protects the case from moisture and dust.
Shutdown problems
Very often you can come across this question: the low beam headlights on the Lada Granta do not turn off, what should I do?
In fact, there may be several reasons, we will look at them:
- The low beam relay on the Grant is located in a common block, the diagram below shows its location, you can try to hit it lightly, this often solves the problem, but you still need to change this unit, especially since its price is low. This is the most common option, but far from the only one.
- The second option is a malfunction of the steering column switch; you can check it very simply: remove the trim from the steering column and disconnect the block of wires that go to the switch unit. If after this the light does not go out, then everything is fine with it; if it goes out, this unit needs to be changed.
- Finally, the third option is a short circuit, which can occur due to wear and tear of the elements or the use of too powerful light bulbs. To check, move the chip on the headlight. If the light blinks, then this is the reason, you need to unscrew two screws to disassemble the housing, most often the low and high beam contacts are closed, just disconnect them and put them back as they should be.
Adjustment
Let's look at how to adjust the low beam headlights on a Grant yourself:
- First, you need to carry out preparatory measures - refuel to a full tank, check that there is a spare tire in the trunk, and put a load weighing 75 kilograms on the driver’s seat. Also, check the tire pressure, it should be correct.
- You will also need a 6 mm hexagon with which the adjustment will be made.
- You need to find a flat area in front of which there is a wall or a flat high fence and place the car at a distance of three meters from the surface.
- Apply markings on the wall - two vertical stripes should go along the width of the light bulbs in the headlights, a horizontal line should be located along the height of the installation of the lighting elements, and also draw an axial vertical line in the middle.
- When adjusting one of the headlights, cover the other with opaque material, then set the corrector to position “0”. Next, use a hexagon to direct the light flux so that its center is at the intersection of the vertical and horizontal lines opposite the headlight. Work is also carried out on the second side.
Work on replacing lamps, eliminating minor faults and adjusting light can be carried out without the involvement of specialists, this will save significant money and guarantee the quality of the repair, because you are doing it for yourself. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances better.
Relay “Forget-me-not-3” is a standard automotive relay with 3 functions and 8 programs. Turning on the headlights after starting the engine, also turning off after stopping the engine, smooth ignition of the lamps, delay 3 seconds.
Reasons why the battery light is on
The first option is that current is supplied from the generator, the voltage is 12V at the battery terminals, the battery is discharged. In this case, you need to strip the terminals and wires. After this, you need to measure the voltage level again. If this method does not help, check the charging at the terminal of the generating device. Attach one multimeter probe to it, and the second to ground. If the voltage is higher than that of the battery, you need to clean the generator terminals. In addition, it may be necessary to replace the cable from the alternator to the battery.
The Light Doesn't Go Out!
Every modern car is equipped with lighting. In other words, car lighting is designed to illuminate the road and convey information about the car.
If you are looking for information about car lighting, be sure to watch the videos offered on our website.
- Low and high beam
Hyundai Solaris low beam - high beam. Relay RS-527 for VAZ (low and high beam). Photo. Installed xenon fogs. Hyundai Solaris near.
H1 low beam
LED lamps CL3 “freeze”. H4 LED bulbs for headlights. Photo. LED lamps CL3 frost. Trial .
Fine for not turning on low beam headlights
Ambush Zholpola highway Shchuchinsk - Astana behind the payment point. Low beam headlights (Dai, Dps, Traffic police). Photo. But for the speed.
What's happened?
And everything turns out to be extremely simple. On modern Lada cars, engineers have come up with electronic protection against short circuits (short circuit), which has a non-volatile memory! It is hidden in an additional body electronics module (EMM), to which the daytime running lights circuit is connected.
This block is located on the front passenger side:
Two other significant blocks are located nearby: the central body electronics unit (CBKE, also known as VSM) and the Era-Glonass unit.
The comfort unit (EMM) is responsible for the operation of the running lights (DRL), side lights, and also for the operation of the windshield wipers. If abnormal situations, such as short circuits, occur in these circuits, the built-in protection, which is assembled on the VNQ6004SA driver chip, turns off the output voltage to the circuit and then stores the state thanks to the built-in non-volatile memory. The protection will be removed only after receiving the appropriate command from the controller.
