Replacing the intake manifold sealing rings on a VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Lada Priora

Priora fuel system

• gas tank;• pump and filter located in the tank;• fuel line;• pressure regulator;• fuel rail;• four injectors;• throttle valve;• intake manifold;• electronic engine management system.

The work is based on the fact that when the ignition is turned on, the electric fuel pump starts working, which builds up pressure in the rail. Further, when the engine is cranked by the starter, the electronic control unit opens and closes the injectors, the air-fuel mixture enters the combustion chambers, according to the operating diagram.

After fuel enters the combustion chamber, a spark is formed between the electrodes of the spark plugs. The fuel ignites and the engine starts. The injectors are electromagnetic valves, and the control unit is responsible for their operation. He is also responsible for the quality of the mixture, the ratio of air and gasoline. Sometimes problems arise and you have to disassemble the fuel system for repairs.

Replacing the intake manifold on a Prior

Welcome! Intake manifold - someone calls this part an intake manifold and someone calls it a receiver, but if you read the terminology of these two words, these are completely different things, for example, a receiver is needed only to smooth out the pulsations of air that goes into the cylinders of a car engine, but the manifold is already needed in order to distribute this air to the necessary cylinders and the fuel-air mixture is also mixed in it, so these are two different things, but since people call them with the same words, you can assume that they are one and the same thing yes and besides, the can itself at the intake manifold can essentially be called a receiver, since it contains only air and has a fairly large volume, and if you remember the terminology, it says, the receiver is the thing in which the smoothing of air pulsations occurs (The car is moving in this case, more smoothly) and it has a size 50-70% larger than the car’s cylinders, so the receiver and intake manifold can be considered a single whole, but this no longer applies to carburetor cars.

Note! To replace the intake manifold on a car, you will need to stock up on: A set of wrenches and to all this, a socket wrench of size “8” will also come in handy; in addition to this wrench, you will also need various kinds of screwdrivers, wire cutters, or instead of them, you can also stock up on a knife (Knife By the way, it will even be more comfortable)!

Where is the intake manifold located? In all sixteen valve engines, even though this is even a sixteen valve engine that was installed on cars of the tenth family (It’s just that the 16 valve engine of the VAZ 2110 car is slightly different from the Priorov’s), the intake manifold is in the same place and they have an absolutely identical shape and design made of plastic, so for clarity, the collector in the photo is indicated by an arrow, but the car as you see is a VAZ 2110, but on the Priors it will be visually the same.

Note! To fully see the collector, you will also have to remove the engine screen, the screen is a thing that reduces the noise from the engine a little and covers it from dirt getting on it. When carrying out a lot of work, you will have to remove this screen because it covers almost the entire part of the engine and itself Moreover, you will not see the collector without removing the screen from the car; for more details on how to remove this screen, read the article: “Replacing the engine screen on cars”!

When should you replace the intake manifold? Since the collector on Priors is made of plastic, it is not so difficult to bend it or pierce it with anything, dropping it, for example, on a sharp stone from a height, besides this, the collector is no longer necessary to be replaced in any case (with the exception of replacing it with some be it sports), but the manifold also needs to be removed in the following cases, firstly, when carrying out any work due to which the manifold interferes, and secondly, the manifold has its own gaskets (the intake manifold has only five of them, one of them is located between throttle valve and manifold, and the other four at the end of the pipe are installed, how to replace them as you read the article, you will find out) when they wear out, the air begins to come out, and if the air is simply released (that is, comes out), then the car will drive worse and its consumption will increase , since you will have to press your foot harder on the gas pedal.

Cylinder head repair

We mark all hydraulic compensators with numbers using an ordinary clerical touch and put them away. An ordinary magnet will help you pull them out. We dry out the valves and remove the oil seals (valve seals), the valves into scrap metal, the oil seals into the trash. We clean all channels. We take the head for grinding, just in case. After washing it again with kerosene after sanding and blowing it with air, we begin to assemble it.

We arrange the recently purchased valves in the sequence in which they will be located in the cylinder head and begin to grind in one by one. Lubricate the valve stem with clean oil and apply lapping paste to the edge.

We insert the valve into place and put a valve grinding tool on the valve stem. The stores sell a device for manual lapping, but since this is the twenty-first century, we are mechanizing the process. We take the old valve and cut off the rod from it, select a rubber tube for it of such a diameter that it fits tightly. The rod is in a reversible drill, one end of the tube is on it, the other is on the valve being ground in. At low speeds we begin to grind the valve, constantly change the direction of rotation and periodically press it to the seat or weaken the force. On average, the valve takes about twenty seconds. We take it out and wipe it.

The valve is considered ground in if a uniform gray strip of at least 1.5 mm wide appears on the chamfer.

The same stripe should appear on the valve seat.

Installing a receiver on a Priora

As usual, installation is carried out in the same way as removal, however, during its production you must be extremely careful not to damage the receiver body. It is extremely important to insert the installed part with the holes into the connecting pins of the cylinder block, after which the manifold is directed to the mounting points on the engine. Small but important points for installation:

Small but important points for installation:

• always clean or lubricate the rubber seals installed at the points of contact between the receiver and the cylinder block;
• Properly tighten the nuts at the joints of the elements.

Piston rings and connecting rod bearings - replacement

Piston rings are replaced when repairing the connecting rod and piston group, if they are worn out or damaged. Also, rings are replaced during engine overhauls.

To complete the job, you will need a piston ring mandrel.

Removal

1. Remove the cylinder head.

2. Remove the engine oil pan.

4. Turning the crankshaft by the bolt securing its pulley with a 17 mm wrench, set the piston of the first cylinder to the lower position.

5. Using a TORX wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the connecting rod cover of the first cylinder.

6. Remove the connecting rod cover. 7. Place the hammer handle against the piston and push it up. 8. Remove the piston from the cylinder.

9. Remove the liners from the connecting rod and its cover.

10. Fix the piston by the connecting rod in a vice. Slightly spreading the ring lock, remove the upper compression ring. Similarly, remove the lower compression ring, oil scraper ring and its expander.

Recommendation

The rings are thin - to avoid breaking them, cut a strip from a plastic bottle slightly shorter than the circumference of the piston. Place the edge of this strip under the lock of the upper compression ring, and then in a circle under the entire ring.

Remove the strip along with the ring from the piston. Remove the second compression and oil rings in the same way.

Comment

The advisability of replacing the rings depends on the degree of wear of the cylinders. Small uniform wear of the cylinders (within 0.05 mm) can be compensated by installing a piston of a different class with a larger diameter.

Installation

1. Thoroughly clean the piston

from soot and deposits. We inspect the piston, connecting rod and pin. Cracks on them are unacceptable.

Comment

We select new rings in accordance with the piston diameter - nominal or repair size.

2. Before installing new rings, use a set of feeler gauges to measure the gap between the piston ring and the wall of the groove into which the ring will be installed.

Table 9.1.3 Permissible gaps between the groove walls and piston rings:

Comment

The permissible gaps between the groove walls and the piston rings are shown in table. 9.1.3. If the gap exceeds the maximum allowable, the piston must be replaced.

3. To select piston rings based on the thermal gap, install the rings one by one into the block cylinder to a depth of 20-30 mm and use a set of flat screws to determine the gap in the lock.

Comment

The maximum permissible thermal gap during wear (for used rings) is 1 mm, the gap for new rings is 0.25-0.45 mm. If the gap exceeds the maximum allowable, the ring must be replaced.

4. Place the rings on the piston. In this case, the oil scraper ring

We put on the upper compression ring without a mandrel: having spread the ring lock (no more than is required to put the ring on the piston), we first place the lock on the piston, and then the back part of the ring.

5. Rotate their locks so that they are located at an angle of 120° relative to each other. The expander lock must be rotated 180° relative to the ring lock.

6. Lubricate the cylinder wall and the outer surface of the piston with clean engine oil.

7. We put the mandrel on the piston and compress the rings with it, periodically lightly tapping the mandrel with the handle of a hammer to self-install the rings.

Warning!

8. We wipe dry the liners in the connecting rod and the cover, and install the liners in them.

9. Lubricate the inner surface of the liners with clean engine oil.

10. Install the piston into the block cylinder.

Warning!

The arrow on the piston crown should point towards the crankshaft pulley.

11. Pressing the mandrel against the block and tapping the piston bottom with the handle of a hammer, we recess the piston into the cylinder (at the same time we control the movement of the connecting rod to the crankshaft journal).

12. Install the cover on the connecting rod and tighten the bolts to a torque of 43.32–53.51 Nm (4.42–5.46 kgcm).

We assemble and install the other three pistons in the same way.

After installing all the pistons, reassemble the engine in reverse order.

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Other work on replacing parts on Priora

To ensure a good seal between the flanges of the cylinder head and the throttle assembly at the manifold, sealing rings are installed there.
But before you put the manifold in place, you should plug the holes in the intake channels with a plug. To avoid excess debris when cleaning out the seats of the new rings, you must carefully align the O-rings so that they fit snugly into place.

You can replace the rings yourself, the main thing is to do everything according to the instructions and put the parts back in the reverse order of removal.

How to replace pistons

This is a fairly serious operation that fits into the category of a major overhaul. It requires the application of both skill and simply physical strength. In addition, there is a fairly large volume of tools and devices. What a repairman will need:

• Replacement pistons set with rings.
• Pins and stops.
• Crankshaft oil seals.
• Complete locksmith set of keys.
• Retaining ring removers.
• Hammer and punch.
• Engine oil.
• Containers for oil and antifreeze.
• Clean rags.

Some aspects will be mentioned briefly as they are described in separate articles. So.

The work is best done on a stationary lift. As a last resort, in a well-equipped inspection pit.

Using containers, drain the antifreeze and oil from the crankcase. These details are described in some detail in separate articles. As well as removing the gearbox. Which is the next step. After removing the box, it’s time to work on the motor.

The generator belt is released and unscrewed using the 17 head for the damper mounting bolt. When removing the damper, it must be checked to see if it needs to be replaced. Remove the cover and, in sequence, the timing belt and crankshaft gear. Now remove all the bolts holding the oil pan. Remove the oil intake. Now access to the crankshaft is completely open. Using a wrench, unscrew the 10 bolts securing the journals of the 5 main bearings and set them aside.

Once the fasteners are removed, you can finally remove the crankshaft assembly with pistons and connecting rods for replacement. Transfer it to a clean surface and wipe with a rag. Using a puller, pull out the retaining rings of the piston pins, then carefully, using a drift, knock out the pins and remove the pistons. Replace all pistons in the group. Install new pistons in place according to the marks. Insert fingers and secure with rings. Reassemble everything in reverse order, paying special attention to the order in which the neck liners are installed. Reinstalling the timing belt is a very important operation, and there is a separate article on its implementation. Replace the crankshaft oil seals. Add oil and antifreeze and you can try starting it.

Removing the intake manifold

It is removed either for replacement or when repairing the ramp and injectors. Polishing the intake manifold will also help, as this will make it easier for fuel to enter the combustion chambers. Consequently, the power will increase. It is necessary to begin work by reducing the pressure in the fuel system. This can be done by removing the fuse for the fuel pump and starting the engine.

Wait until the engine stops on its own. This will indicate that there is no gasoline left in the system and the pressure has dropped. Now disconnect the battery and begin dismantling the system elements. First you need to remove the decorative casing, which is located on the top of the engine. It is attached at three points. Then proceed to dismantle the air filter. Remove the pipes that go to it.

Having freed up space, you can begin to remove the throttle assembly. There will be no problems with its dismantling, the main thing is not to remove the screws securing the damper. Otherwise, if you do not tighten and secure it properly, it may fall out and go into the engine. Then you will have to carry out large-scale repairs, which can be compared with a major one. With the throttle assembly removed, you can begin removing the intake manifold. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Determining whether the engine is sucking in air

Before you start removing more than half the engine parts to get to the manifold, you should check other parts of the air system. And after that, carry out a complete tuning of the car. First of all, you need to inspect all the hoses and gaskets located on the cylinder block.

The most common method of finding air leaks is to spray the hoses with plain water; if there is a hole in one of them, the engine speed will decrease when water enters.

Detailed instructions for removing the intake manifold on a new Priora

It is necessary to remove parts from a cooled engine. It will take about an hour, provided that you have at least a little understanding of the injection system. The following sequence of actions must be followed:

• First of all, you need to remove the throttle. There is no need to completely remove it, just move the assembly connecting it to the manifold to the side. You also need to remove the throttle valve to thoroughly clean everything;
• disconnect the drive throttle cable from the manifold;
• disconnect the connectors from each other to remove the wires from the ignition coils;
• on the camshaft, disconnect the sensor wires;
• disconnect all canister wires;
• disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose going to the manifold;
• then unscrew the clamp and remove the ventilation pipe;
• Unscrew the self-tapping screw of the oil level indicator guide tube;
• remove the dipstick with the guide tube;
• using sockets and a ten-size wrench, unscrew the nuts and bolts securing the exhaust module and coils from cylinders 1-2-3;
• remove the coils;
• then you need to unscrew the collector fasteners;
• slide it forward and remove the manifold.

Review of the exhaust system of Lada Priora

The exhaust gas exhaust system on the Lada Priora performs the following functions:

• exhaust gas removal;
• noise reduction when the engine is running;
• neutralization of toxic hazardous substances in exhaust gases.

The basis of the Priora exhaust system includes:

1. 1. Exhaust manifold with converter;
2. 2. Resonator;
3. 3. Main muffler;
4. 4. Auxiliary muffler;
5. 5. Connecting pipes.

The manifold is used to remove exhaust gases from the cylinders into the exhaust pipe. The tightness of the connections is ensured by sealing with a metal gasket in two layers between the block head and the exhaust manifold. The attachment of the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head on one side goes into connection with the converter on the other. The collector and converter connected into one unit make it possible to reduce the warm-up time to the operating temperature of the latter, which significantly increases the efficiency of the converter.

Installation of oxygen concentration sensors at the inlet and outlet of the converter ensures constant monitoring of the quality of exhaust gases. The connection between the intake pipe and the manifold has a heat-resistant seal in the form of a metal-asbestos gasket. And the metal compensator connecting the additional muffler with the exhaust pipe serves as a vibration damper from the engine to the body and the entire exhaust system.

The exhaust gas exhaust system is connected by attaching it to the body brackets using 4 rubber rings. On the main muffler, the suspension cushion has a reinforced structure, which is due to the increased load on it.

How to change pistons to plug-in or Avtramat pistons with your own hands?

Thus, we approached the issue of replacing pistons on a VAZ Priora car with our own hands.

Prepare a set of wrenches in advance:

1. In the event that the replacement of elements is carried out on a car with high mileage, using an internal meter you will have to measure the distances from the upper edge of the cylinder in the transverse and longitudinal direction of the engine. In this case, you need to deviate from the top edge by 3, 10, 60 and 112 mm, respectively, you should end up with four values. This way you can determine how worn the cylinders are. If the wear is small and amounts to 0.05 mm, then this distance can be compensated for by installing elements with a slightly larger diameter. However, if the wear is 0.15 mm or more, then your cylinders will need boring. To do this, we recommend combining this process with the installation of plug-in elements. Immediately before disassembly, the motor should be cleaned. Use wrenches to unscrew the screws that secure the right engine support, as well as the front support and generator bracket. All brackets are dismantled.
2. Then you should disconnect the pipeline, the block head, the flywheel, and the filter element. The pump supply pipe to the cylinder head is also disconnected. Now you will need a workbench or a suitable stand.
3. Next, the oil pan, oil pump and oil receiver are dismantled. The screws securing the rear crankshaft oil seal are also unscrewed using a wrench. The holder itself can be dismantled by prying it with a screwdriver into the grooves on the body.
4. Then you should unscrew all the bolts of the connecting rod caps one by one, and the connecting rods themselves with the pistons should be dismantled.
5. After this, the piston rings are removed. The ring itself is removed from its installation location using the same screwdriver. Here, pay attention to the condition of the rings - if they are worn out, then it is better to change them.
6. Using a mandrel, the piston pin is pushed out, after which the piston itself can be removed. After replacement, all assembly steps are carried out in the reverse order. Make sure that the mark on the bottom of the element is directed in the same direction as the arrows on the connecting rod are pointing.

Replacement and installation of the intake manifold Lada Priora 8 and 16 valves

Sooner or later, the car needs to be repaired. In some places the replacement must be carried out as planned, in others it is not. But every car owner faces a similar problem.

The question immediately arises: what repairs can you realistically carry out on your own, and where do you need to go to a car service center? Thanks to the Internet, all the necessary information, even with video instructions, can be found quickly.

The main function of the manifold is to distribute air among the engine cylinders, and also mix the fuel-air mixture there. And if you do not diagnose the operation of the air system in a timely manner and do not pay attention to the symptoms, this can lead to more serious engine damage.

Symptoms of malfunction and diagnostics of the piston group

This is interesting: How does a variator work? 7 advantages of checkpoints

After this, a signal is given and the partner rotates the starter. The device will show the condition of the pistons and whether they require replacement.

Which pistons to replace?

Usually these parts are taken with markings according to the repair number. But these details can only be determined by an experienced mechanic. But there is one feature that replacement pistons must have. There must be a groove for the valves. When replacing with such pistons, in the event of a belt break, nothing inside the engine will be damaged.

Reasons for replacing the Lada Priora receiver

There are a considerable number of varieties of intake manifolds, for example, made from various types of metals or composite materials. However, the Priora receiver is made entirely of plastic. This material prevents excessive heating of the manifold due to a hot car engine.

Thus, the air flow characteristics are improved, which has a positive effect on the proportions and quality of the air-fuel mixture. However, plastic also has a main, negative side - fragility. As a result, numerous breakdowns occur both due to the fault of the car owner and due to low temperatures at which the plastic loses its strength coefficient.

The most common damage can be caused by: - ​​road traffic accidents (even minor ones); — accidental impacts during any repair work in the engine compartment; — other reasons;

If the receiver on your car has through holes or any other leaks, then it must be repaired (if possible) or replaced. If a part is faulty, air loss will occur, resulting in improper engine operation.

Comparative characteristics

So that you can understand which group of pistons is better, consider the comparative characteristics of all three manufacturers with photos:

1. Let's start with STI products. Forged STI pistons are produced in Togliatti and they are made by hot pressing. As reviews from consumers who have already installed STI show, these forged pistons largely reduce the efficiency of the engine. This is due to the fact that STI parts have a lower compression ratio and a larger combustion chamber. It should also be noted that the alloy of STI pistons contains less silicon, as a result of which the strength of the components at high temperatures will be lower.

   
   Four STI pistons
   In addition, as a result of the reduced nickel content in the alloy, the service life of the element can be significantly reduced. With all this, STI plugless pistons are more expensive than STK and Avtramata.

2. Avtramat cast pistons are produced in Kharkov, Ukraine. In the production of pistons, an alloy identical to the original parts on Priora is used. However, unlike the latter, Ukrainian-made products can have deep countersinks, and this is an undoubted advantage of the Avtramat compared to standard pistons. In this case, we are talking about safety in the event of a timing belt break. As for the compression ratio, in the case of the Avtramat it has not changed.

   
   Two pistons Avtramat
   Due to the increased selections for the valves, the area of ​​the combustion chamber was slightly expanded, which also helps to reduce the efficiency of the engine. Domestic motorists do not notice this difference in practice. It should be noted that the cost of Avtramat parts can be lower from 50% to 70% compared to STI, depending on the auto shop.

3. Now let's move on to STK plug-free forged pistons. STK products are manufactured in Samara, Russia. STK plug-free pistons have almost the same properties as products from Avtramat. The exception is that STK plugless pistons have more weight, as a result of which Prior owners often note in their reviews a decrease in vehicle dynamics during acceleration. In general, pistons from STK have proven themselves well among domestic motorists.

   
   Piston produced by STK

How is the catalyst on a Priora replaced with a flame arrester?

The procedure should be carried out carefully so as not to damage the exhaust system elements adjacent to the catalyst. The work must be done in a well-equipped garage pit or using a lift.

Many motorists are interested in how to remove the catalyst on a Priora and replace it. The process involves cutting out the element or carefully knocking it out.

The correct insertion of a flame arrester instead of a Priora catalyst is also quite simple. It is necessary to weld a new one in place of the removed element. The lack of high-quality welding leads to the need to contact a specialized workshop.

Typically, replacement work takes a minimum of time and requires minor investments. But the owner will be confident in the quality of professional work.

Installing a flame arrester is the best option for saving money. It is not recommended to weld a simple piece of pipe, which many craftsmen offer. Such a solution can lead to serious overheating of the remaining elements of the exhaust system and subsequent damage to their condition. As a result, expensive repairs of many parts will be required.

Receivers 16V

This section presents sports intake receivers for VAZ cars, which are equipped with 16-valve engines. The sixteen-valve engine is the most common engine for tuning VAZ cars, as it has great potential for improvement. As a result, our online store of spare parts for tuning offers you the largest selection of 16-valve car radios from various manufacturers.

Sports and tuning 16v receivers of this section differ in the manufacturing method (welding, casting). Receivers made of die-cast aluminum allow for a more optimal shape for better filling of the cylinders, so they can safely be classified as “sports”. These receivers include a die-cast LADASPORT receiver. But the price for such a sports receiver is quite high due to the complex manufacturing technology.

VAZ tuning receivers are made of steel, their design and shape also allow for good cylinder filling performance (StingerSport channel on YouTube) VAZ with a maximum bore diameter of 56 mm and for the GAZ throttle body with a bore diameter of 60 mm

How to remove the receiver on a Priora

Tools that may come in handy: - 10mm socket; - key 13; - screwdriver.

To remove the intake manifold you will need:

1. Due to the fact that in the next steps of the instructions there will be manipulations with electrical wiring, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal of the battery.
2. The next step is to remove the plastic screen (cover) from the engine housing. This is done so that it does not interfere with your work.
3. After which, it is necessary to remove power from the four ignition coils and dismantle them. To do this, pull out the contact chips. Take a 10mm socket (or a wrench of the same size) and unscrew one fastening bolt on each coil. Simply pull the coils upwards using the necessary force. Now they can be removed. There is no need to remove the spark plugs themselves; they will not interfere with removal. On the other hand, it is advisable to take advantage of the situation and check their condition (gap and spark quality).
4. Our next task is to dismantle the throttle assembly. The receiver cannot be removed without removing it. To remove the throttle and avoid excess antifreeze leaking out of the cooling system pipes, you need to prepare first (unscrew the cap of the expansion tank with coolant). To remove the throttle, it is necessary to disconnect all the pipes connected to it, including those responsible for the air supply (corrugation) and cooling. In order to remove the assembly itself, you need to unscrew the two fastening nuts with a wrench or a 13mm socket. Now the assembly together with the sealing strip can be removed, and at the same time inspected and, if necessary, cleaned.
5. At this point, locate and remove the crankcase ventilation hose. To do this, loosen the tightened clamp using a flat-head screwdriver and pull it towards you.
6. The next step is to dismantle the dipstick structure to check the oil level. It is attached to one screw, which must be unscrewed.
7. Now the most important thing is to remove the Priora 16 valve receiver. Doing this is not as difficult as it seems. First of all, we need to unscrew the nuts from the three connecting bolts at the junction of the block and the manifold. It is most convenient to work from a repair pit or using a lift, having previously dismantled the underbody protection of the car. After that, you just have to unscrew two additional nuts.
8. It's time to move into the engine compartment and unscrew the two special mounting bolts that are located on the right and left of the receiver housing.
9. After which the receiver can be carefully removed.
10. Depending on the type and configuration of components in your engine, you may need to unscrew, rotate or remove any component that prevents the receiver from being removed (for example, power steering or a generator).

Let's move on to the cylinder block

We remove the pallet. Rotating the crankshaft as it is convenient for us, unscrew two bolts on each connecting rod cap. We use a TORX E10 head for this.

We take out the pistons along with the connecting rods. To do this, use the wooden handle of a hammer to press the connecting rod from below and lightly tap it to knock it up. We remove the old liners and buy new ones of the same size according to the markings on them. Here is another stone in AvtoVAZ’s garden, the owner has never climbed into the car from the interior or into the engine, but three pistons were of group “B” and one was “C”. It turns out that at the factory they re-sharpened one cylinder a little and simply put an enlarged piston there, no words. There are no options, we take group “C”, don’t sharpen the engine because of this. We will not touch the main liners either.

We buy a new piston group that does not bend the valves, connecting rods and connecting rod bearings.

Eliminating longitudinal play of the crankshaft

It was noticed on this motor. To eliminate it, replace the thrust half-rings. Standard and repair sizes are available. We take the first repair size, if they are too tight we sand them down a little. We unscrew the middle main bearing and gently push it with a screwdriver and move the half rings. The mark on it is in the form of three serifs, shown below.

When the half ring comes out a little, turn the crankshaft, it will push it out. There are two types of half rings: white at the front and yellow at the rear; the grooves on them should point towards the crankshaft cheeks.

We install them as we removed the new half rings; if they go in with great effort, you can grind them a little on a small abrasive stone, but not from the side of the grooves. Checking the play.

We tighten the main bearing with a torque of 8 kgf*m.

Assembling the piston

There is an arrow stamped on the top of the piston; it should be directed towards the front of the engine. And there are marks on the connecting rod that should look the same way.

We insert one retaining ring into the groove on the piston. We insert the connecting rod into the piston and, having lubricated the connecting rod and the piston pin with oil, insert it into place. Insert the second retaining ring. Although this operation seems simple, it will take some pains. We inspect the assembled structure; all retaining rings must be clearly in their grooves, otherwise a ring that has jumped out while the engine is running can cause a lot of trouble.

After assembly, you need to break off the connecting rod bearing cap, since the connecting rod is made in one piece. It's like that on our cars. First, unscrew the bolts. We insert the connecting rod into the cleats at the level of the mark shown in the figure with the black arrow and lightly clamp it, then break it off with a slight movement of the hand. The first time is very scary. We put the cover in place and tighten the bolts so as not to mix it up in the future.