Moving the generator upstairs Niva 2121 with your own hands

January 26, 2016 Lada.Online 112 753 2

The standard location of the Lada 4×4 generator is at the bottom, which cannot be called a good solution. During off-road driving, water and dirt easily get on it, or antifreeze drips, which significantly reduces its service life. To protect an important part from moisture, owners resort to modifications. Let's look at how to move the generator up to a Lada 4×4.

Moving the KZATE 80A generator upstairs (without power steering)

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Moving the KZATE 80A generator upstairs (without power steering) Author: Brigadir335

Step-by-step instructions for a 1.7 carburetor engine without power steering.

The bracket was kindly made by Vlad_aka_SoHm.

What do you need:
— generator 21214 or similar; — generator mounting bracket 21214-3701650 with two nuts and bolts with a thin head, for fastening to the KIT kit; — KIT generator transfer kit; — generator belt 1350 mm long; — mounting bolt for generator 2110 assembly; — two bolts M8x20 and M8x30 with nuts;
- four M5x35 bolts and eight washers.
1) Remove the spare wheel from under the hood, unscrew the extension on which it was lying.

2) Unscrew two studs and two bolts above the crankshaft pulley. We replace them with four longer bolts. If there are no problems with unscrewing the bolts, then there may be an ambush with the pins. It’s not difficult to solve; you can either weld a bolt to the stud, or sharpen the stud with a file on both sides and turn it out with pliers (idea from Udalilsya). Everything turned out for us without any problems!

3) Now we take a grinder or a file and sharpen the engine block for the upper mounting of the bracket (the bolt to the left of the distributor, if they are located at the driver’s fender). On the block the tide has a round shape, but we reduce it to a rectangular shape!

4) We attach the generator mounting bracket 21214-3701650 to our massive structure:

This is where the first problems appear; the bracket 214 of the generator should not rest against the outlet fitting of the fuel pump. On the KIT bracket there are three installation positions for the bracket from the 214 generator:

We chose the middle one, other options are possible: - top (requires a 1375 mm belt);
— lower (replacement of the fuel pump with 2108 is required).
5) Attach the bracket to the engine block.

6) Disconnect the “-” from the battery, remove the belt from the generator, disconnect the wires from the old generator. We unravel the braid of wiring from the lower generator to the level of the battery itself and the electrics. wiper motor (this length was enough for me to reach the upper generator) We pack the wiring in corrugated:

7) Install the generator on the upper bracket, put on the belt. We check the alignment of the pulleys. If necessary, adjust the position of the bracket from the 214 generator. Install the tension bar. Let's tighten the generator belt!

We connect the wires, start the engine, check the voltage! (we didn’t succeed the first time due to a defective relay-regulator.

9) We inspect the engine compartment for the presence of jambs, making sure that they are absent, close the hood.

Niva is ready for new adventures!

04.02.13.

Mounting drawings for injection Lada 4×4 with power steering (VAZ 21214)

The author of the design proposes to move the generator to the place of the power steering, having previously installed the following bracket in its place:

Belt 1220 mm profile “A” (ZIL157), wedge angle 40 degrees. High pressure pressure hoses have a length at the centers of the fitting holes of 1450 mm. Return sleeve - 1115 mm. You will have to cut a hole for the hoses in the right protective casing. The belt is 710 mm long, other dimensions are the same. The photo on the left shows the hydraulic pump bracket, on the right - the power steering in the new place.

Turn the power steering pump upside down. Result of moving the generator to the top:

There are ready-made kits for moving the Lada 4×4 generator upwards on sale, but the price for a piece of iron can be greatly inflated. Thus, by making such a bracket ourselves, we extend the service life of the generator and save money.

Have you ever encountered such a modification? How did you solve a similar problem? Let us remind you that in another article we determine whether the Lada 4×4 needs a more powerful generator.

Keywords: 4x4 generator

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Device Description

Start the engine, let it run for a few minutes, then, pressing the gas pedal, bring the crankshaft speed to 3000 rpm. Turn on the high beam headlights, heated rear window, and heater fan.

Measure the voltage at the battery terminals, which should be above 13.2 V for generator 9412.3701 and 13.6 V for generator 371.3701.

If this is not the case, the voltage regulator with the brush assembly, the generator windings are faulty (open or shorted) or the contact rings of the field winding are oxidized.

The removed voltage regulator of the generator 9412.3701 can be checked by connecting a lamp (1–5 W, 12 V) between the brushes, and a power source to the “D” and “ground” terminals (DC only, “minus” to ground!) , initially with a voltage of 12 V, and then 15–16 V.

In the first case, the lamp should be on, in the second - not. If the lamp lights up in both cases, there is a breakdown in the regulator; if it doesn’t light up, there is a break or broken contact between the brushes and the regulator terminals. In both cases the regulator should be replaced. To check the generator regulator 371.3701, the current source should be connected to terminals “B” and “C” (“plus”) and “ground” (“minus”).

Connect the “plus” of the battery through a lamp (1–5 W, 12 V) to terminal “B” of the generator 9412.3701 (to terminal “30” of the generator 371.3701), and the “minus” to its body.

If the lamp is on, then there is a short circuit in both the block of “positive” and the block of “negative” valves.

To check the short circuit in the “positive” valves, connect the “plus” of the battery through a lamp to the “B” terminal of the generator 9412.3701 (with the “30” terminal of the 371.3701 generator), and the “minus” - to the terminal of one of the phase windings of the stator. If the lamp is on, one or more positive valves are broken.

To check the short circuit in the “negative” valves, connect the “plus” of the battery through a lamp to the terminal of one of the phase windings of the stator, and the “minus” to the generator housing. If the lamp is on, one or more negative valves are broken or the stator windings are shorted to the generator housing.

To prevent short-circuiting of the windings, remove the generator from the car and, having disconnected the windings from the voltage regulator and rectifier unit, check their short circuit to ground with a lamp or ohmmeter. The generator valves can also be checked with an ohmmeter without connecting the battery and test lamp.

The short circuit of additional diodes can be checked by connecting the “plus” of the battery through a lamp to terminal “D” of the generator 9412.3701 (to terminal “61” of the generator 371.3701), and the “minus” - to the terminal of one of the phase windings of the stator (to one of the mounting bolts of the rectifier block ). If the lamp is on, one or more additional diodes are broken.

A break in the additional valves can be determined by the low voltage at plug “D” of generator 9412.3701 or plug “61” of generator 371.

3701 (below 14 V) at low and medium generator rotor speeds.

The serviceability of each diode (main or additional) can only be determined with a removed rectifier unit using an ohmmeter or a test lamp. If the rectifier unit fails, it is recommended to replace it as an assembly.

It is possible to replace individual valves, but the main valves will require repressing them in the holder - an operation that requires care and skill.

On Niva 21214 cars there is a generator of type 9412.3701, on VAZ 21213 - type 371.3701, on Niva Chevrolet there is a generator 2123. All of them are alternating current electric machines with electromagnetic excitation, having a built-in rectifier unit with silicon diodes and an electronic voltage regulator. The maximum current produced by the generator unit type 9412.3701 is 80 A, voltage - 13.2 - 14.7 V, rotation - right.

Design of unit 21214

The stator has a 3-phase winding, one of the ends of which is connected to a rectifier unit consisting of 6 diodes. Of these, 3 diodes are negative, 3 are positive. According to the polarity, they are pressed into the plates. The entire structure consists of a rectifier unit, which is located on the back cover of the generator unit covered with a protective casing.

The design of the unit also includes contact rings and brushes. On the back side of the back cover there is a brush holder, which is structurally connected to the voltage regulator. The rectifier contains a capacitor that protects the electrical network from power surges.

The “B” terminal of the generator set must be connected to the positive terminal of the battery, and the negative terminal of the battery to the vehicle ground. If the connection is incorrect, this will lead to breakdown of the diodes.

Generator Niva 21214

What is a generator

A generator is an alternating current device that produces electromagnetic excitation during operation.
The generator design has a built-in rectifier unit, equipped with diodes made of silicon, as well as an electronic voltage regulator. Thus, the unit creates electrical energy from mechanical energy and energizes the car’s battery, and also provides energy to its devices and systems. The connection diagram for the generator on Niva-2121, 21213, 21214 is shown in the figure.

Dismantling and connecting the generator on Niva 2121: step-by-step instructions

Device Description

Design of unit 21214

The unit covers are attached to the stator using 4 bolts. The covers have bearings installed. They rotate the rotor shaft. In the front bearing, the inner race is clamped with a nut along with a thrust ring and washer. The 2nd bearing is also pressed into the back cover.

Basic malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Checking the health of the unit is done using a multimeter. After the engine is started, the voltage at the battery terminals should be 13.6 V. If the value is higher or lower, this indicates a break or short circuit of the windings, oxidation of the slip rings, a malfunction in the brush assembly, or voltage regulator.

The generator unit may not work well due to weak belt tension or its breakage. In this case, you need to adjust the tension or replace the belt. Faulty voltage regulator, needs to be replaced. If a breakdown, short circuit, or damage to the rotor windings is detected, it should be replaced. If there is a break or short circuit in the stator windings, it requires replacement. If the diodes are damaged, the rectifier unit is replaced.

Nuances of moving a generator

The disadvantage of domestic Niva SUVs is the location of the generator unit - at the bottom of the engine compartment. It constantly gets contaminated when driving off-road, and coolant constantly drips. The problem is solved by moving the generator upstairs (the author of the video is SARTANETS).

To transfer, you will need a set of keys, a bracket, mounting bolts, and a V-belt. You can make a generator transfer bracket with your own hands according to the drawing below.

Drawing of a homemade bracket

Sequence of actions during transfer:

We dismantle the propeller, pump and remove the belt.
By unscrewing the standard bracket, you can remove the generator.
We cut off the bead around the side of the cylinder head and on the cylinder block.
Then you should unscrew the two bolts and two studs.
Next, the assembly is installed on a new bracket and final assembly is performed.

Thus, moving the generator unit upstairs is not difficult.

Guide to removing and connecting the generator

To remove the unit, you need to prepare a set of tools: keys “10” and “19”, ratchets with heads, a hammer and a small extension.

The process consists of the following steps:

First of all, remove the negative terminal from the battery.
Next, you need to remove the engine protection and the right mudguard.
Then, using a hammer, carefully knock out the mounting bolt and remove it.
At the next stage, you need to disconnect all the wires going to the generator: the plug and the wires secured with a nut.
Then the fastening on which the belt tensioner is located is unscrewed.
By removing the belt, the assembly can be dismantled through the hole that was formed after removing the protection.
After replacement or repair, install the unit in reverse order.

Price issue

The VAZ 21214 generator has good repairability, which allows you to significantly save money if worn or broken parts are replaced in a timely manner.

If you change the complete unit, the cost of replacement will be as follows:

generator 21214 – 3125 rub.;
lower mount – 133 RUR;
fastening bolt - 53 rub.;
tension bar - 55 rub.;
relay RS-527 – 57 rub.

Lada 4×4 3D URBAN › Logbook › generator — moving up to the right in a field with air conditioning

It so happened that this complex but interesting revision turned out to be the HUNDREDTH entry in the BZ. Anniversary.