Rear lights of the VAZ 2114: connection diagram, what kind of bulbs are there

When carrying out electrical repair work on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars and their modifications, as well as when problems arise such as brake lights or parking lights do not light up, the reverse light does not work, turn signals do not blink, very often you have to understand the wiring , leading to the rear lights.
In such a situation, information about where which wire goes and what it is intended for in the rear lights is simply necessary. In this article, we will take a closer look at the wires leading to the rear lights of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars. As an example, we will use the left light (the one behind the driver). All wires in the connecting block of the left lamp are located in a certain order. In some cases, they may even be numbered at the end of the block.

purpose of wires in the connecting block of the rear left lamp of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

1. Yellow wire with a black stripe, the topmost one in the connecting block - plus to the parking light lamp.

2. Brown or orange wire with a black stripe, the second in the connecting block (located below the yellow one) - positive for the fog lamp.

3. Blue wire with a black stripe, the third in the connecting block - positive for the turn signal lamp.

4. Green wire, fourth in the block - plus to the rear light bulb.

5. Black wire, fifth in the block (penultimate) - negative for all flashlight lamps.

6. Red, sixth (the very last) - plus for the brake light lamp.

Each wire in the connecting block corresponds to its own track on the rear light board. For more information about checking the rear light boards, see “Checking the rear light boards of VAZ 2108. 2109, 21099”.

Replacing lamps

We have figured out the type of lamps, what we know to buy for replacements, now we will find out how to replace them. Let's start with “stops” and reverse.

Brake and reverse lights

We open the trunk lid, look under it and see the back of the lamp. Squeeze the two latches at the edges and remove the board with the lamps. The power connector does not need to be disconnected - the length of the wires is quite sufficient for this operation.

Removing the board with lamps

We find the desired lamp, guided by the picture at the beginning of the article, slightly recess it, turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the socket. We install a new one in place of the burnt one and fix it by turning it clockwise.

Replacing the reverse lamp on a VAZ 2110

Turns, dimensions and fog lights

Let's move on to the rear light of the VAZ 2110 installed in the body. Here we have to replace the turn indicator lamps, side lights and fog lights. We open the trunk lid and opposite the lamp in the upholstery we find a valve with Velcro. We open it and see the back of the lantern.

The rear part of the tail light of the VAZ 2110 is closed by a valve in the upholstery

At the top and bottom we find two latches. Push them towards the center of the lantern.

The board with lamps is secured using two latches

We take out the board with the light bulbs. On the removed board we see 3 turn signal lights and two more nearby: a large one for the fog light and a small one for the side light.

Removed board with lights

All three bulbs are removed in the same way - by lightly pressing and turning counterclockwise. We take out the burnt one.

Turn signal lamp removed

We install a new one in its place and fix it by pressing and turning clockwise. We return the board to its place, snap it into place with the latches, and close the back of the lamp with the trunk trim flap.

Main causes of malfunctions

Why might the tail light not work? There are quite a few reasons, but we will list them all:

The most common malfunction of the above, of course, is the failure of the side light bulb. In this case, it is enough to replace it. How to do it?

How to change tail light bulbs

Replacing lamps in the rear light of a VAZ 2114 is extremely simple and does not require any tools. We open the trunk lid and opposite the lantern we find this pocket on the upholstery.

Pocket covering the rear light of a VAZ 2114

It's on Velcro. Just pull the edge and open it. In front of us is the back of the flashlight and the power supply.

Carefully remove the block by simply pulling it out.

There are three latches on the lantern: on the top, bottom and side.

We press them out and take out the board.

Place the board face up. The side light bulb is the smallest, marked with an arrow in the photo below.

Slightly recess the lamp, turn it counterclockwise and pull it out of the socket. We install a new one in place of the burnt one, mount the board in place, connect the power supply, and close the pocket in the upholstery.

After replacing the lamp, the side lights do not light up - we are looking for the required fuse

The next fairly common reason that the dimensions of the VAZ 2114 do not work is the failure of the fuse. But before we go to check it, let’s think logically.

Let's look at the circuit diagram (the very first drawing in the article). If fuse F10 burns, the front and rear left side lights, the engine compartment lamp, the instrument panel and license plate lights will not light up. If fuse F11 burns, the starboard front and rear lights will go out at once.

But suppose we have the picture described above. Where to look for fuses? They are located in the mounting block, and the block itself is located in the engine compartment immediately behind the windshield on the driver’s side. In the photo below it is marked with a black arrow.

We open the cover and observe a number of fuses (inserts) and relays. They are all marked, so finding the ones you need won't be difficult. As we remember, we need F10 (left side) and F11 (right side), both rated at 7.5 A.

Opened mounting block with fuses VAZ 2114

Important! We replace the blown fuse with a serviceable one of the same rating. If the value is less, the insert will burn out immediately. If it is more, the insert will not perform its functions and the wiring will burn out if there is a malfunction.

If the fuse is good, what should I do?

But why don’t the lights on the VAZ 2114 light up, even if the lamps and fuses are working? As we found out before, there are quite a few reasons. We will try to find the problem and fix it ourselves.

Let's check the condition of the pads on the lantern and the mounting block. Let's start with the lantern. We disassemble it in the same way as to replace a light bulb (see section “How to change tail light bulbs”). We inspect the block and its counterpart on the board. The contacts must be clean and free of dirt, moisture or oxidation. If it's not in order, we clean it. At the same time, we inspect the socket contacts by removing the lamp: we look for the same thing and, if we find it, we fix it.

Now the mounting block. In order to get to its pads, the device will have to be dismantled, but this is not a difficult task. Remove the cover from the block and disconnect the upper block.

Removing the cover and disconnecting the connector (in the photo there is a VAZ 2109 mounting block with a similar fastening)

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two fixing nuts.

Carefully lift the module and gain access to the pads.

Now the power supplies can be removed and inspected

According to the schematic diagram (figure above), we are interested in the X4 (Ш4) and Х9 (Ш9) pads. They are located as follows:

Location of the pads on the mounting block of the VAZ 2114 car

We inspect and clean if necessary. At the same time, we inspect the rest so that there are no problems in the future. The most convenient way is to pull them all out - this way it’s easier to inspect their mating parts on the mounting block, which you can pick up and take to the light.

The next possible malfunction: the button responsible for turning on the side lights does not work. To check this button, it must be dismantled. You don't need any tools for this. Under the buttons (the side light switch is paired with the low beam switch) there is a decorative panel. We remove it with our bare hands, simply by prying the edges with our nails.

Removing the decorative panel

If on our modification of the VAZ 2114 there is an on-board computer behind the panel, then we remove it too: simply pull it out, turn off the power supply and take it out. Now we put our fingers under the panel, push out the buttons and take them out.

Removed button block

Remove the power supply. Now the button can be ringed with a regular tester set to resistance measurement mode. We will call contacts 1 and 2. They are marked, but to be sure, let’s check the photo, in which the necessary contacts are marked with arrows.

In one position of the button, the device will show zero resistance (when the button is pressed - in the “ON” position), in the other - infinitely large (when the button is in the “OFF” position). If you use an electrician’s tester (sound or light test), then in the “ON” button position the test ring will work (beep or light up), and in the “OFF” position nothing will happen.

Important! Power to the parking light button is supplied directly from the on-board network without any fuses. The slightest carelessness and you will have to replace the burnt-out wiring. Therefore, before such manipulations, it is better to disconnect one of the battery terminals.

Well, the last thing we can do is to carefully examine the harness leading from the mounting block (X9 block) to the rear light. When inspecting the harness, do not forget that the yellow wire is responsible for the rear marker lights on the right side, and the yellow-black wire is responsible for the lights on the left side. During inspection, we pay special attention to the places where the harness passes through the body and its ribs.

It is worth paying special attention to such transition places

If this does not help, then either we did not inspect the harness properly, or the problem is in the mounting block. The only thing that can be done here, without having electrical knowledge, is to try to temporarily replace relay K4. It is installed in a mounting block, its full name is Lamp Health Monitoring Relay (RLL), you should rent it from a friend and look at the result. It worked - we buy a new one, and the problem is solved. If it didn’t work out, you’ll have to contact a specialist or just an electrician you know (not necessarily a car).

So we have sorted out the possible problems with the rear side lights on the VAZ 2114. Let's hope that the knowledge gained will help you solve a similar problem yourself and without going to a car service center.

Source

Modernization of standard lights

Now it’s time to start tuning the rear lights of the VAZ 2110. The easiest option to improve the appearance of the car is to replace the standard lights with, for example, Osvar sticks.

Rear LED lights for VAZ 2110 “stick” type

This is not difficult to do. We go to the store, buy them, remove the standard ones (see section “Removing block headlights”), and put the purchased ones in their place. As a rule, there is no need to make any modifications to the connectors or solder connections. Moreover, the “sticks” from the 112 model will fit perfectly on the VAZ 2110. The result will be something like this:

“Sticks” installed instead of the standard rear lights of the VAZ 2110

But we don’t look for easy ways, especially if we like to do things with our own hands and according to our own ideas. You can modify and modify the standard taillights, but to do this you will have to disassemble them.

How to take them apart

According to the designers' idea, the rear lights of the VAZ 2110 are non-separable - the glass is tightly nailed to the headlight body. Maybe with some creepy solvent like dichloroethane or using ultrasonic or microwave welding. But we will still try to disassemble the device, and in such a way that it can be assembled afterwards.

To work, we will need the headlight itself, a knife that we don’t mind, and a gas stove or any other burner.

Since glass cannot be removed by any other methods, we will literally cut it off. We remove the board with the light bulbs from the device. We heat the knife and begin to slowly cut off the glass around the perimeter.

Cutting off the rear light glass of a VAZ 2110 with a hot knife

We cut through on three sides - on the side of the side lamp and on the sides. We don’t touch the top side, because there the glass overlaps with the lantern body, and it won’t be possible to cut it off neatly.

The glass is placed on top of the device body

Having made several passes with a knife, we begin to disconnect it at the top

Insert the knife as shown in the photo below and gently rock it, trying to tear the glass away from the body at the gluing site

Removing the glass at the top of the headlight

After the glass comes off on top, there will be two more places that hold it. They are marked with arrows in the photo below. We do the same: we insert a knife between the glass and the body in the place where it still holds, and tear it off with light rocking.

Peeling off of glass in the area of the reflector

If everything is cut well, the glass can be easily removed.

Removing glass from the rear light of a VAZ 2110

All that remains is to bring beauty. Take a file and align the melted edges of the glass and body.

All that remains is to remove these melted burrs

How to check the functionality of the frog?

The contacts from the sensor are removed and clamped together, after which the ignition is turned on. If there is light, then you need to replace the sensor. And if not, then the problem is in the circuit, but the frog is fine.

When the reverse lamp does not light up, it is often necessary to replace the old sensor with a new one.

What should be done:

place the car on the overpass;
install the handbrake;
remove protection;
remove the contacts of the old sensor;
place the container and remove the frog;
Unscrew the faulty device and replace it with a new one.

Then let it sit for a while and check the oil in the gearbox. Fill it up to the required level and put the entire structure back together.

Attention, the price of a new sensor is within 250 rubles. The next option, if the reverse light does not light up on a VAZ 2114, then the problem is in the light bulb

To replace it, you need to disconnect the wire block, remove the plastic contact panel from the flashlight, while squeezing the side fixing elements

The next option is if the reverse light does not light up on a VAZ 2114, then the problem is in the light bulb. To replace it, you need to disconnect the wiring block, remove the plastic contact panel from the flashlight, while squeezing the side fixing elements.

We rotate the light bulb counterclockwise and, pressing slightly on the socket, remove it. Now we install a new one, check the contacts and put the entire unit back together.

We visually assess the condition of the wiring; if necessary, we strip the wires, check for breaks using the ringing method, and check the contacts on the headlight film.

Why aren't the reverse lights on yet?

A blown fuse is a common cause, which means you need to know exactly where they are located and how they change.

The products are located in the fuse box, which can be found under the steering wheel on the left side. It can be easily removed with just one touch of your hand. There is no need to unscrew anything.

When the reverse light does not light, you need to check the condition of the fuses. How to do this? You can visually look at the fuses and determine the breakdown - the integrity of the middle part.

But the burnt jumper is not always so clearly visible, so you need to turn on the dimensions and, without removing the fuses, check the voltage; if one end is lit and the other is not, the device is faulty.

Attention: when such a breakdown often occurs, you need to check the entire electrical wiring system, which causes such malfunctions in the car. To replace the product, you don’t need tools, just take tweezers, remove the old unit and install a working one

To replace the product, you don’t need tools, just take tweezers, remove the old unit and install a working one.

Key conclusions and recommendations from professionals

You can find out where the VAZ 2114 reverse sensor is located very simply by looking up at the gearbox, and if the driver cannot get under the car, then the hood opens and thus the condition of the frog is checked.

To completely verify that the brake gearbox is damaged, you need to turn the wheels to the left and look at the gearbox from the driver’s side. There is a protection with contacts inside on the side, remove it, close the contacts on the DZH and turn on the ignition. When everything is in order, a white light appears.

If not, then use a tester to measure the voltage on ground and on the orange wire that comes from the frog. If voltage is present, then we check the flashlight board itself and clean the contacts.

There is also a chance that the contact between the frog and the fuse block has “frozen”; you need to find it and check its condition.

Attention: when everything is normal, but the lights do not light, the reason may be the contact of the lamp, so even when screwing in a new one, you must check its functionality. As the people say, the devil never jokes, because a breakdown can be the easiest, but lead to a lot of troubles

This is why the reverse light on the VAZ 2114 does not light up, as you can see, there can be many reasons, and for the motorist it is important to carefully check the integrity of all frog mechanisms, identify the malfunction and repair the functionality of the lighting

Have a nice journey, good fellow travelers and a smooth road!

VESKO-TRANS.RU

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Replacing the Brake Light Lamp on a VAZ 2114

design
breaking
Why does the reverse light not work?

Now let's talk about the rear optics on the VAZ 2114, namely, we will discuss the background of the malfunction and ways to eliminate damage to the rear lights.

In the mid-20th century, the international automotive society adopted certain color standards for automatic lighting devices.

So, for the front headlight, an indispensable realization of an apparent white or flawless yellowish color is provided. Reddish colors are used in the rear optics, and in cornering. orange or yellowish headlights. There are standards for neutral fixtures such as taillights. they should be white.

Rear optics in the form of headlights. The design contains:

Parking lights;
Stops (they are cut off when you press the brake pedal);
Turn signals.

Separately from this device there are lights and fog lights. Their functions are similar. light signal.

When tail lights fail, it is often due to a broken bulb from a particular bulb or a fuse problem.

A rarer type of failure is a broken wiring.

You should know that each element of the rear optics plays an irreplaceable role, so you need to maintain the correct level of optics performance and respond to any malfunctions in a timely manner.

REAR TAIL LIGHTS. VAZ 2114

Make sure all of your vehicle's lights are working properly before driving for long periods of time. In the event of a tragedy caused by non-functioning lights, do not rely on insurance. This won't work.

Lamps that provide a light signal to indicate when you are reversing can greatly improve road safety.

Turning on the rear lights means the car is moving backwards, so be careful. A broken light will simply lead to tragedies and clashes, which will ultimately be caused by you.

The ZX's headlights are illuminated in white. They cut when switching to reverse gear.

There are several reasons why FZH might fail. Let's try to understand them.

There are many circumstances in which the FZH will malfunction, so the driver must know exactly how to correct one type of fault.

To remove a board, you will need to perform several general operations:

Open the trunk;
Remove everything from the place so that it does not interfere with work;
Remove the trim;
Remove the plastic housing;
Remove the back cover;
With access to the cartridge and backlight, you can remove the device;
Remove the rear mounting studs and the headlight itself.

Many people confuse the reverse sensor with the speed sensor because these devices are located at some distance from each other.

How to change a reverse lamp | Replacement lamps VAZ 2115,2114,2113,2199,2109,2108

If the taillights are not cut off, the culprit may be the reverse sensor, in other words a frog among men.

Remove the contacts from the sensor and tighten them, then turn on the ignition. If this indicator continues to appear, the sensor needs to be replaced. If there is still no light, the continuity of the circuit is broken and the frog is fine.

Changing the sensor is quite simple:

Place the car in a hole or overpass;
Engage the parking brake;
Remove the bottom protection to gain access to the box;
Remove the contacts from the old sensor;
Place an empty container under the sensor and remove the frog. A container is required because when the device is removed, oil will flow out of the box;
Dismantle the old frog, insert the freshest one in its place;
Let the car sit for a while;
Check the oil level inside the gearbox;
If necessary, add oil to the desired level;
Reassemble.

Such repairs can be done entirely with your own hands, and the cost of production will be approximately 250 rubles. In particular, there are now a lot of new sensors for the VAZ 2114.

It is not uncommon for backlights to stop working properly due to the bulb itself breaking.

To change it, you need to disconnect the wiring block and remove the contact panel from the lamp. It's easy enough to squeeze the side clips together to create a plastic panel;
Lightly press the cartridge and turn it counterclockwise;
Check the condition of the contacts and wiring;
Screw in the last lamp that matches the previously installed one;
If necessary, remove the contacts before calling the last lamp and call the wiring for the tester. There may be a gap in the circuit, so the new bulb will not work.

Quite often the taillights do not work because the fuse has blown. All VAZ 2114 owners know better where this fuse is and how it is changed.

The correct fuse is located in the appropriate fuse box. on the left under the wheel. You can remove it in one go, you don't need to twist or rotate anything.

When visually inspecting, make sure that the middle part is not damaged. But it is not always convenient to look at burnt jumpers. It is better to turn on the side lights without removing the fuse. Equip yourself with a voltage tester. If one end lights up and the other doesn't, then the fuse has actually failed.

Design of the rear lights of the VAZ 2114

In order to carry out repairs, diagnose and eliminate emerging problems, it is necessary to understand the structure and diagram of the rear lights of the VAZ 2114.

The taillight device consists of three main elements:

— boards with fasteners, connections for connecting light bulbs;

— external decorative cover, light diffuser.

Connection diagram for wires of components (lamps):

1. direction indicators;

2. overall glow;

3. signaling (brake lights);

5. designations for reversing.

Causes of breakdowns

The most common reasons for node failure:

the narrowest point in the entire structure is the elastic board;
in second place, banal burnout or mechanical damage to light bulbs;
the third reason is a problem with the fuse or relay;
oxidation of contacts;
broken wiring.

First of all, it makes sense to check those elements that do not require removing the entire headlight (for example, fuses, relays). Then check the quality of the connections, the presence of oxidation and the voltage supply level to the illuminator. The last step is to disassemble the taillight, remove and inspect the board.

Breakdowns

If the rear headlight unit fails, it is often due to a broken bulb from a particular light, or a problem with the fuses.

A rarer type of failure is a broken wiring.

It should be understood that each element of the rear optics plays its own irreplaceable role, therefore it is necessary to maintain the required level of performance of the optics and promptly respond to emerging malfunctions.

Before long trips, be sure to make sure that all the lamps in your car are working properly. In the event of an accident caused by non-functioning taillights, do not count on insurance. She won't act.

Replacing light bulbs

Now let's replace the rear light bulbs. We lift the trunk and look for a valve in the upholstery located opposite this device.

On the trunk side the lamp is covered with a Velcro flap

We open the valve (it is on Velcro) and observe the back of the flashlight with the power supply connected to it.

Rear part of the lamp VAZ 2114

We pull out the block by pulling it towards the central axis of the machine.

We release the latch located on the side of the lamp that is located closer to the center of the machine, and remove the board along with the lamps.

Removing the board with lamps

We unfold the board with the bulbs facing up and observe the picture shown in the photo in the first section of the article. All lamps are removed in the same way - by turning them counterclockwise. We find the burnt out lamp and replace it with a new one.

Replacing the reverse indicator lamp

Connection diagram

The rear lights on the VAZ 2114 are connected to the vehicle’s on-board network using connectors, the pinout of which is given below.

The numbers in the photo indicate:

Both lights are connected to one harness, which runs along the rear of the body from the right light fixture to the left, then along the left side to the mounting block located in the engine compartment immediately behind the windshield opposite the driver. The complete wiring diagram of the electrical equipment of the VAZ 2114 (injector) will look like this:

In this scheme we occupy the marked positions:

Replacing the rear lights of a VAZ 2114

In order to remove the rear lighting equipment you will need: - a key to “8”; - a convenient Phillips screwdriver.

All work consists of seven simple steps:

The first step is to open the trunk of your car. If it is filled with things that may interfere with the work process, free up the interior space. In order to gain unhindered access to the rear light housing, it is necessary to remove the decorative fabric trim. It is attached using several self-tapping screws, which can be easily unscrewed with a screwdriver. We remove the casing so that it does not interfere with the future process. On more modern VAZ 2114 models, the trim is attached using regular fabric Velcro. We feel for the contact chip that is attached to the headlight circuit board and carefully pull it out of the connector

In this case, do not shake the chip from side to side; carry out all manipulations extremely carefully. Now is the time to remove and remove the board itself. To do this, press on the special plastic clamp and pull the product out of the headlight housing. At this stage we will unscrew the mountings of the rear lights. Using an “8” wrench, we will need to unscrew one nut from the four mounting studs, which are located in the corners of each lamp. All that remains is to disconnect the device body from the car body

To do this, grab the headlight with both hands and pull it towards you. The reverse connection of the rear lights on the VAZ 2114 is carried out in a similar way, as well as the removal process.

Using an “8” wrench, we will need to unscrew one nut from the four mounting studs, which are located in the corners of each lamp. All that remains is to disconnect the device body from the car body. To do this, grab the headlight with both hands and pull it towards you. The reverse connection of the rear lights on the VAZ 2114 is carried out in a similar way, as well as the removal process.

Conclusion

In order to get rid of the annoying VAZ sore with rear lights, there are two solutions. The first is to periodically check, modify, repair or change the board. The second is to replace the two tail lights (assemblies) with more reliable, alternative products. There are several types of them on the auto market now.

What to do if the VAZ reverse light does not work

There are times when the light fails and stops lighting up after we have engaged reverse gear. This creates discomfort for the driver when reversing, and also stops informing other road users of your intentions. Therefore, after detecting a malfunction, it is necessary to urgently repair the electrical circuit of the reversing light.

First of all, always check the condition of the fuse. The mounting block can be installed either in the engine compartment or under the instrument panel. In any case, it must be opened and the condition of the fuse assessed. As for the number under which the protective device is located, reference books regarding the electrical equipment of your car will help you here. If the fuse is blown, do not replace it immediately. First, find the short circuit and fix it. To find the location of the short circuit, it is necessary to check the length of the entire wire route. However, if the fuse is intact, then move on to the next step.

Now the performance of the lamp is checked. It is possible that the light bulb has burnt out. To check it, you can use a standard tester, which includes a regular 12-volt battery. Connect it to the lamp contacts and check its operation. If the lamp does not light up, it means it is burnt out and needs to be replaced. However, if the lamps light up, it means that the problem is not in them at all and further diagnostics need to be carried out.

The third in line is a device called a “frog”. The fact is that finding it is not as easy as it seems at first glance. This is due to the fact that it is usually located in the lower part of the car, in particular on the gearbox. During the inspection process, it is necessary to check the contact connections and, if they are dirty (and this is what happens in most cases), clean them. If this does not help in solving the problem, then the fault must be looked for in the car’s ignition switch.

The fact is that the reverse light circuit passes through the car's ignition switch. Disassemble the lock housing and check the condition of the contacts that are responsible for turning on the reversing light. As a rule, in addition to the flashlight, consumers whose power is supplied through the ignition switch also do not work. These may be a heater fan, etc.

Open your car's electrical diagram and note the color of the wires that should supply power to the reverse light. Checking the electrical wiring begins with checking the power to the lamp. Set the tester to 12 volts and place the probes on the terminals at the rear of the car. In this case, reverse gear must be engaged and the ignition must be turned on. If the output voltage is zero, further testing is carried out on the “frog”. If there is power on it, then most likely the wire leading from the “frog” to the reversing light is damaged. If there is also no power, check the mounting block. Power should appear near these two elements. Based on the values obtained, find the faulty wire and replace it.

Connection diagram

Before troubleshooting, you need to get acquainted with the electrical circuit of their power supply. Let's take a look at the diagram for switching on external lighting devices.

We are interested in:

How it works? When button 6 is turned on, the on-board power supply voltage is supplied to the mounting block. Having passed through fuses F10 and F11, it goes to the control relay K4. Fuses are necessary to protect the power circuits of the left (F10) and right (F11) side dimensions.

The relay controls the correct operation of the side light - if any of the lamps or its circuits malfunctions, it commands the on-board control system 12 to turn on the warning light located on the instrument panel. Having passed through the relay, the voltage is supplied to the side lamps 1 and 8.

Important! In some modifications of the VAZ 2114, instead of the K4 relay, there may be jumpers in the mounting block. Their location in the diagram above is indicated by arrows.

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Comments 28

And that’s it., finally)) the mounting block turned out to be working, but still left a new one as a spare, because everything on the old glass heating fuses burned out. I replaced the rear boards and harnesses with wire plugs, all the wiring was rotted in the plugs, and the stop on the spoiler was also replaced with a new one, the old one somehow broke along with all the stops for the company.

Total. Stop in spoiler 250 rub. Boards cost 220 rubles each assembled. Flagella 20 RUR, mounting block from disassembly 1000 RUR.

The new stop spoiler is of much worse quality, the factory one was much brighter. The lamps in the new stop are terrible

We got around to replacing the mounting block with a new one. I rearranged everything and ooooopppppaaaa. The feet still don't work)))

To be honest, I don’t know where to dig anymore...

In the meantime, I’m waiting for my salary, I’ve already gotten used to pressing the rear PTF button when braking))) so that no one will correct my ass))) at least somehow attract attention that I’m braking)))

Still, I decided to disassemble the mounting block and the forecast is disappointing, fuse f4, which seems to be used for heating the rear window, the cigarette lighter and somewhere else, melts the board, everything around it is scorched, the board can’t even be reached, the plastic has already melted to it, next to fuse f3 it is is responsible for the brake lights, perhaps the whole reason is this, how reluctant I am to buy a new unit... but I’ll have to go on a hike. So far I have only treated it with liquid electrical insulation before replacing the unit

That's all we have. all 3 brake lights (spoiler) do not work. The light bulbs are intact, the grounds have been cleaned, the boards are in more or less perfect condition, the tracks are intact, the lamp serviceability relay has been replaced with a new one, the frog is working, the frog is receiving power. for a mystic?))))

In short: in the footsteps, today it was the same, two lamps stupidly burned out at the same time. The spoiler most likely has some wiring cut somewhere. Regarding the turn signal: this is a jamb of the board, either change the lights completely, or just start the car, turn on the lights, turn signal and lightly hit the glass with your palm several times until it is fixed (the contact comes off there). Cleaning doesn't help for long.

stripping does not save for very long. If the weather is rainy or winter, then a month at most (

Check the limit switch (frog) under the brake pedal, it may be damaged. Better yet, buy it and replace it right away, the price is reasonable.

I removed the wires from the frog, shorted it out, nothing lights up, I’ll buy a tester, I’ll have to see if there’s any current flowing to it at all

Check the limit switch (frog) under the brake pedal, it may be damaged. Better yet, buy it and replace it right away, the price is reasonable.

There are 12 V on the wires to the frog, so what?) I shorted the wires, everything is quiet. Let's go to the relay then

And if it burns out, the stops don’t burn? It is also responsible for the fact that if they do not light up, it signals or I do not understand its essence correctly

How can I check the relay? With others, it’s clear they click) should this also be?)))

if it’s burnt, you’ll know by the smell)) and you can open it, there are 2 latches on the sides, you can pry them off and the relay housing will come off

The problem with the blinking of the fog lights along with the turn signals was solved by cleaning the contacts of the headlight. My feet don't still burn. I'm looking at the relay

Are both feet missing? Look at the relay for monitoring lamp malfunctions (the largest in the ChYa) when I paralleled the stops with the PTF, the relay burned out from overload, but yours may have just burned out from a bad ground))

Schemes 2113, 2114, 2115

Electrical diagrams of the Samara 2 family with comments. Some diagrams are taken from the website chipdiagnost.ru

General diagram of the first VAZ-2115

with a regular button for the rear fog lights (with fixation), a fluorescent interior light, a connector for the clock and an 8-pin connector for the injector wiring content-23.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3852.jpg The harness is visible carburetor ignition system with a speed sensor; it is not connected to the injector. The 4th wire of the interior lamp is the ignition, so that when the ignition is turned on, the backlight goes out immediately. Peerarm on Ш11 for wipers. On 2109 they are powered through a fuse on the motor (6-pin), here it is not used and therefore there are 5 wires going to the motor.

Years of production 2115: 1997—2012.

Circuit 2115 with “high” panel 21083 is similar to circuit 21099 (except for the rear harness).

General diagram of the VAZ-2115 luxury configuration

with headlight cleaners, heated seats, power windows, central locking, trip computer and fluorescent interior lighting content-5.foto.my.mail.ru…hofer2107/3833/s-3853.jpg

Explanations for the 8-pin injector block:

white-red and blue - for the check light, blue-red - ignition, gray - speed sensor, brown-red - tachometer, blue-white - driver's door switch (for the immobilizer), green-red - K-line (may not be ), green - fuel consumption. Next to it is a pink wire - to the fuel level sensor.

Years of production 2114: 2001—2013

Schemes of individual wiring harnesses of VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114 and VAZ-2115

With a 9-pin square block for the injector, a non-locking button for turning on the automatic transmission, and a starter blocking relay (the injector turns off the starter if the engine is running).

Instrument panel harness

content-20.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3834.jpg In the photo there is a relay for the rear fog lights (attached next to the mounting block, the fuse dangles nearby), a button without locking. It works like this: if the low beam and/or front fog lights (if equipped) are on, press and release the button - the automatic transmissions turn on. They turn off when the button is pressed again or automatically when the headlights are turned off, so that the driver does not forget to turn them off.

Glove compartment lighting harness

content-12.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3840.jpg There is a magnet on the lid; when it is far from the sensor with the reed switch, the glove compartment light turns on (the reed switch closes the contacts).

Rear harness VAZ-2114

content-18.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3842.jpg Rear window wiper motor with pause. When the washer is turned on, it runs continuously.

Additional harness (central locking)

content-20.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3835.jpg Connects to the instrument panel, connector next to the hood handle. Pink - door lock, permanent plus, fuse hangs next to the hood release handle. White and black - on the door for electric windows, plus during ignition, switched on through a relay and fuse in the mounting block. Also in the photo is the wiring for the radio speakers.

Seat heating harness

content-1.foto.my.mail.ru…hofer2107/3833/s-3838.jpg The gray wire is connected to the connector where the additional harness is connected (to the gray wire if there is one), plus when igniting, the relay is attached next to the mounting block and The fuse is located next to the hood handle. The white wire is connected to the additional harness, button illumination.

Connection diagram of the mounting block (relay No. 1 - headlight cleaners)

content-10.foto.my.mail.r…ofer2107/3833/s-3851.jpeg In the photo the typo X2-11 is connected to X9-5 (and it says X5-9)

Explanations for the 9-pin injector block:

1 gray - speed sensor, 2 white-red - minus check lights, 3 green - fuel consumption, 4 blue-white - driver's door switch, 5 brown-red - tachometer, 6 pink-black - plus check lights and starter interlock relay, 7 red-black - starter blocking (if there is no minus, the starter circuit is broken), 8 blue-red - ignition, 9 pink - fuel level.

Years of production 2113: 2004—2013

Diagrams of cars from 2011 with an electronic gas pedal (E-GAZ)

The injector comes with a large multi-pin block. Ignition switch from Kalina.

Luxury instrument panel harness (heated seats and seat belt sensor)

content-5.foto.my.mail.ru…hofer2107/3833/s-3864.jpg content-19.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3865.jpg The seat heating relay and fuse are located next to mounting block.

Connection diagram of the mounting block (relay No. 1 - fan)

There is a typo in the photo: in relay K1, contact 86 goes to Ш3/8 (and not to Ш8/3). content-12.foto.my.mail.r…hofer2107/3833/s-3843.jpg Briefly about the changes compared to the previous block: relay 1 turns on the engine fan, control goes to the cabin, and from there to the injector. Fuse 1 provides constant power to the electrical package control unit. The headlight wiper chain is made directly.

The rest of the circuits are used as before (rear, doors, heated seats...) Except for the wiring harness of the air supply box. It is used the same, only a jumper is installed on pins 6 and 12 of plug 11 of the mounting block (due to a different connection of the oil pressure warning lamp sensor).

Explanations for the 16-pin injector block:

2 red - battery (on APS), 3 blue-red - ignition, 4 pink-black (plus check lights, starter and engine fan blocking relay in the ChYa), 5 yellow-black - K-line, 6 gray - speed sensor, 7 white-red - minus check lights, 8 pink-red - brake lights, 9 brown-red - tachometer, 10 orange-blue - communication between APS and ECM, 11 red-green - brake pedal sensor, 12 blue-black - diagnostic block from the APS, 13 black-red - minus the engine fan relay in the CYA, 14 pink - fuel level, 16 red-black - minus the starter interlock relay.

And briefly about the changes in the E-gas wiring: The glass heating button is connected to the devices (and not to the stove). The oil pressure light is connected a little differently. In the FC, the engine fan relay is controlled by the ECM (contacts are used that on blocks with 11 relays go to light and dimensions). Ignition switch with a coil (immobilizer sensor), without limit switch and backlight, and the ignition switch works only from the ignition. The ESP relay is connected to the APS (switch-off delay after the ignition is turned off) so that the driver has time to close the windows. APS is an immobilizer, a warning about not turning off the dimensions and turning on the reverse gear, a relay, a door lock block, and somehow it’s all powered from fuse 1 of the mounting block (20 Amperes) to which it is connected in the cabin with a small terminal (Ш3/21), rated at 10 Amperes. But the heavy load occurs only briefly when unlocking/locking the door locks, so everything is fine. A sensor on the brake pedal with two open (to the lights as before) and closed (to the ECM) contacts (when the pedal presses on the sensor), a different connector, there is constant power and ignition, and when the sensor fails (and this is not uncommon ), unnecessary contacts close and the ignition starts working constantly or by pressing the pedal)))))

Photo of what “S” (wire connection) looks like using the driver’s door harness as an example

Source

What options are there for decorating taillights?

Quite often, car owners choose so-called angel eyes to decorate the front optics, and LED elements for tuning the rear lights of the VAZ-2114, and other models. Independent tuning for rear optical devices is quite simple, but it is worth considering that this process will require the installation of diodes, so you need to decorate the lights taking into account the recommendations, step by step and slowly.

It is worth noting that LED lighting is not only used for car decoration, but also for practical use. Among the main advantages are the following:

since LEDs illuminate the road much better than conventional incandescent lamps, driving safety increases several times;
the driver will be able to travel more comfortably, both at night and in adverse weather;
This type of tuning is permitted by law, so the driver will not be fined for such decoration.

Car owners can decorate car optics in the following ways:

LED overlays;
diode rings that are installed on the lights;
additional LEDs or more powerful light bulbs that are pre-tinted.

Let's look at each tuning option in more detail:

LED overlays. The most inexpensive and, of course, popular tuning option for the rear lights of the VAZ-2114 is the use of LED overlays. Car owners can buy ready-made linings in various designs or make them themselves. Most often, it is independent overlays that are used to decorate optics, since drivers are able to create the most original and best-suited decoration option for flashlights without any problems. And for this you only need two main components: fiberglass and special epoxy glue.
Car owners began to use tuning with diode rings relatively recently. This method of decorating optics can be done independently by those who understand electronics. Its essence lies in the fact that you need to completely replace the rear lights, having first removed the old ones, and you will need to install those optical lighting devices that are modernized independently.
Upgrading the rear lights with more powerful lamps, as previously mentioned, is necessary after preliminary tinting, so that the bright light does not blind the eyes of oncoming drivers. According to experts, this tuning option can be used for VAZ-2114 cars, but only as a last resort, since this option implies some disadvantages:

the load on the generator increases;
fuel consumption increases several times;
Car wiring overheats.

And since the engine on the VAZ-2114 does not have enough power, as indicated by numerous reviews from car owners, the use of powerful lamps, one might say, is a rather dubious tuning option for this car model.

Installation of additional individual LEDs. This tuning option is the most creative, because it is possible to turn your own design fantasies into reality, however, this option will require more time to create a design solution and the installation itself. To speed up the process, experts recommend purchasing ready-made individual LEDs and doing further installation yourself.

Installation of fog lights

You can adjust the car's optics by installing fog lights. An additional light source allows you to increase road illumination at night, in case of fog or rain. Installing additional fog lights can be quite simple:

First you need to create a website for new optics. To do this, you need to purchase a new bumper or make special niches. Please note that making homemade niches for fog lights is quite difficult, since changing the structure of the plastic can damage the paint.
You should pay attention to the fact that there must be a special switch in the cabin, with which you can turn on the headlights at the right time. To do this, the speaker is dismantled. After disassembly, two connectors will be available: one for the indicator, the second for the fog lights.
The next step is to remove the fuse box under the hood.
Next you need to stretch the wires from the relay to the fog unit.
We connect the terminals to the connector in the mounting block.
We ground the housing.
We connect the PTF to the power harness.

Fog lights not only improve road illumination when driving at night or in the rain, but also significantly change the appearance of the car. Holes in the bumper for fog lights make the car's exterior more aggressive and sporty. Using a new bumper can significantly change the appearance of your car.

Tail light repair

The most common reason for the failure of a VAZ 2114 rear light is the failure of a flexible printed circuit board or a connector made directly on it with conventional metallization. You can, of course, just buy a new printed circuit board and replace the faulty one with it, but, firstly, for how long?

And secondly, we are not looking for easy ways. So we will try to eliminate this malfunction on our own, at minimal cost and in such a way that it will last forever. Let's start with the connector for connecting the flashlight to the on-board network. It looks something like this:

The connector for connecting the rear light to the on-board network is part of a flexible circuit board and cannot be replaced separately

There are many reasons for this connector to fail. For example, we removed the power supply from the flashlight too often and simply partially erased the traces, which have a very small thickness of copper deposition on the plastic. Another reason is that the conductive paths next to the connector broke due to constant vibration. Well, the most banal thing is that the tracks burned out due to overload or short circuit.

Due to burnout of the conductive tracks of the flexible board, the rear fog lights do not light up

The photo shows a flashlight connector of a different modification, but the meaning of the problem is the same. All these issues can be solved with the help of a soldering iron, mounting wire and a regular six-pin (or more) connector with a mating part.

For repairs you will need this block with a mating part

We clean the connector contacts on the board using a student eraser (not sandpaper - the foil is very thin!) and service them.

We solder the wires from the block onto the tracks, not forgetting to mark them, and fill the soldering area with sealant or a hot glue gun.

Mounting block soldered to the rear light board

We cut off the standard power harness block, and in its place we solder the mating part of the new one. We assemble the flashlight, connect it to the on-board network - and check it. If we haven't messed up the wiring of the pads, then everything will work right away with a bang.

What to do if the tracks are burned out or broken? You can get out of this situation as follows. Immediately after the fracture, we clean the protective varnish from the tracks, tin, and solder the block. It will look like this:

You can solder the header anywhere on the flexible board.

You can, of course, limit yourself to this (until next time), but if you spend a little more time and effort, you can make more serious repairs. Flashlights modified in this way will serve faithfully for many years. Such a repair will save you from the eternal problem of contacts of flimsy standard sockets - this is also a very common malfunction of VAZ 2114 headlights.

To implement this idea, in addition to the six-pin block with a mating part (see above), you will need five cartridges from the VAZ 2106 direction indicators and a dozen terminals for them.

You will need 5 such cartridges and 10 terminals for them

We remove the lamps, standard sockets and flexible printed circuit board from the panel. We place the purchased cartridges in the right places on the panel and mark their centers. Special precision is not required here, the main thing is that each lamp shines into its own “window”. We drill holes according to the diameter of the base parts of the cartridges.

Holes for future cartridges

We insert the cartridges into the holes, mark the mounting holes, drill them, and screw in the screws. Now the cartridges are firmly fixed in the panel.

We secure each cartridge with two self-tapping screws

Using a mounting wire with terminals pressed onto it (you can crimp it with ordinary pliers and solder it to be sure), we assemble a circuit that repeats the layout of a standard flexible printed circuit board. To be sure, the terminals can be insulated with heat-shrinkable tubing, but in principle this is not necessary - the panel on which the cartridges are mounted is plastic. We solder our block to the ends of the wires.

This block will connect the rear light to the on-board network

We solder the mating part of the block to the power supply harness of the lights, having first cut off the old one. We solder it, not twist it together. The twist will oxidize in a week, and problems will begin again - sometimes it burns, sometimes it doesn’t. We insulate the solder joint with heat shrink or cotton (black rag) tape. PVC electrical tape is an extremely bad option. It can unfold over time. This kind of isolation is no good.

Everything is ready, you can connect and check

We admire our work for a couple of minutes, insert the lamps, connect them, check them. Is everything working as expected? We assemble the lantern and connect it.

The lantern is in place, all problems are solved for a long time

LED analog P21W

Changing the taillights

The taillights can be changed by purchasing a special tuning kit. An example would be special kits DLK, Osvar, ProSport. You can install the tail light kit yourself.

In this case, you should pay attention to the following points:

1. When choosing a kit, you should pay attention to options made of high-quality plastic. 2. When inspecting the kit, you should check for squeaking. 3. Gaskets to provide a seal to keep the projector in good condition. 4. Pay attention to versions that have a socket for each light bulb.

Some kits are quite expensive. However, the simplicity of installation work determines the attractiveness of the proposal. Another method for replacing tail lights is to use LEDs. Headlights for tuning VAZ 2114 with LEDs can significantly transform the exterior of the car. To complete the work you will need:

1. Construction tape. 2. Tape with diodes. 3. Fiberglass. 4. Resistors. 5. Epoxy resin. 6. Film glued to the surface.

You can do the job as follows:

First you need to carry out dismantling work. At this point, separate the body from the glass. Often all elements are fixed with sealant.
dismantling of deflectors and reflectors continues.
On the outside, the points are marked with a marker. This step must be carried out in order to significantly simplify further assembly.
Self-adhesive rims are attached to the inside - about 20 millimeters.
Using a can of silver spray paint, paint the inside.
After the applied paint has dried, the self-adhesive paper is removed, and in its place you need to attach a tape with diodes.
Next, assemble the headlights in reverse order.

You can also significantly change the appearance of the car. The diode strips look quite attractive, and the work does not take much time. In addition, the cost of all components used is relatively low. In conclusion, we note that it is possible to independently modify the optics using ordinary elements that do not have a high cost. In most cases, diodes are used because they look nice.

Adapter

Alas, the quality and efficiency of the standard cabin filter provided for the VAZ 2114 leaves much to be desired.

Essentially, it is a strip of filter material that is located between two plastic grilles. The effectiveness of this design is insignificant, which forces car owners to take certain measures.

The best measure is to install a filter adapter. Making it yourself is not difficult, although there are other ways to obtain this design.

Adapter drawing example

Thanks to the adapter, it becomes possible to install a truly effective air purifier for the cabin, which retains the smallest particles and does not allow the driver and passengers to breathe dust.

Externally, the adapter is an improved housing for the interior ventilation system with a filter built into it. The design consists of two elements - the rear and the front. A filter is inserted into the rear component, and the joints between the adapter parts are sealed with rubber gaskets. This ensures the necessary tightness. The design nuances will allow you to avoid moisture penetration even when washing the car.

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When planning the installation of the adapter, experts strongly recommend using a pleated cabin filter borrowed from the VAZ 2110.

The simplicity of the adapter design makes it possible to replace the filter with your own hands in the shortest possible time. And during installation you do not have to remove the heater. So this is an ideal solution to significantly improve the ventilation system of your VAZ 2114.

Options for obtaining an adapter

If you have made the right decision that you want to get an adapter for your VAZ 2114, you need to decide how exactly you will get it.

There are three main options for this.

You should start making your own adapter only if you are completely confident in your own abilities. Spend the money you save on purchasing a high-quality carbon filter from a VAZ 2110.

Making the adapter

The instructions for creating an adapter with your own hands are quite simple. Another question is how accurately you can implement your plans.

Find diagrams to create an adapter. Now there are many of them on the Internet. Just keep in mind that you need an adapter specifically for the VAZ 2114.
Make a layout out of paper so that you understand exactly where each part goes and how they are connected to each other.
Stock up on the required amount of stainless or galvanized steel. Some people use plastic, but it is a little more difficult to work with, plus it can cause problems when getting bends.
Cut out the necessary adapter elements from the material, guided by the drawing and layout.
Use a vice and mallet to make bends. The walls will be thin, so do not use a metal hammer. It is better to take a wooden or rubber mallet.
The parts are connected using M3 bolts or rivets.
The advantage of rivets is that you do not need to drill holes in the metal. But they also have a drawback - a high probability of damage to a thin sheet of metal.
At the last stage, carefully treat all joints, connections and holes with sealant. This will allow the structure not to make unnecessary noise while driving.

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Finished design

The manufacturing process will take at least 6 hours. Plus, you will additionally have to spend time studying diagrams, drawings and creating a layout. So be patient.