How to select and adjust locks on the trunk and doors of the Lada Granta Liftback

We often hear complaints from car owners about poor-quality Granta Liftback trunk door locks. They say they fail prematurely.

The dissatisfaction is well founded, since from 2014 to 2022 the manufacturer installed one type of lock, and then a number of improvements were made and a new version appeared. It is still used in mass production.

In order to provide methodological assistance to drivers, we will consider in detail the stages of prevention and replacement of door locks on Grant Liftback.

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*prices are current as of 10/08/18.

Features of door adjustment

The opening device may become stuck because the door is sagging or poorly adjusted. Several effective methods have been developed:

The adjustment is carried out using the lock latch located on the door fragment pillar. Using an impact screwdriver, three bolts are loosened, the door is adjusted, and the screws are tightened. Adjustment of the response part. It provides soft and silent closing/opening. To do this, the door is moved outward using external adjustment screws. Hammering the bracket with a hammer

After a slight shift, it is important to check the functionality of the door, then repeat the procedure if necessary.

Loosen - tighten, this is an algorithm that will allow you to adjust any structure, even the trunk. If the door element is skewed, it means that the points on the rotation axis have shifted. Therefore, the loops are simply tightened by 5 mm. If these actions do not help, then the distortion should be looked for in another part of the body.

What is important to know about silent locks on the Lada Granta Liftback

Not all car owners are satisfied with the ease and noise level when closing the doors of their car. The defect is caused by excessive wear of parts and design flaws at the manufacturer level.

The principle of noise suppression is implemented by an installed noise absorber. In Lada Granta Liftback models, this is a rubber insert or a plastic polymer.

Silent locks are structurally composed of a pin and a shackle with a noise-absorbing insert. Some car owners practice replacing the arms, while leaving the standard locks unchanged. Already in this case, the noise level will be significantly lower, and locking the door will be easier.

At the same time, systematic use of the door lock leads to rapid wear of the polymer/rubber material. The owner has to come back for preventative maintenance again and again.

Reasons for replacement

It is necessary to replace the entire lock or just the contact group, depending on the nature of the breakdown and the situation with your car. Therefore, we will consider options when replacement may still be required.

When checking the contact group, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, otherwise a short circuit will occur, and not only the contactor will have to be replaced.

Circuit and pinout

First of all, get acquainted with the lock diagram and wire connection diagram, which will allow you to better understand the features of the 3Z pinout.

As you can see, the pinout includes 8 elements. What does each of them mean and what functions are they responsible for? We'll figure out.

1. Power supply for the inserted key sensor microswitch (+12Volt).
2. Power supply to ground when doors are opened on the driver's side.
3. Power supply that supplies current to the starter (+12Volt, pin 50 on the diagram).
4. Source at +12Volt. Activated after turning on the ignition. Power supply for additional equipment, such as video recorders, clocks, etc. (pin 15 in the diagram).
5. Source at +12 Volts. Triggers when the key is inserted. Goes to pin 5.
6. Power supply +12Volt. The illumination of the 3Z larva is activated.
7. +12V source from the battery (pin 30 in the diagram).
8. Not active.

Preparatory stage

• impact screwdriver;
• cross bits;
• pliers;
• plastic clips in case of damage to the standard ones;
• liquid for removing rust and corrosion;
• a new lock, the modification is chosen individually by the owner.

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

1. We install the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide unobstructed access around the perimeter.
2. We take priority safety measures when carrying out work. We fix the rear row of wheels with wheel chocks and engage first gear to avoid arbitrary movement.
3. Open the driver's door, use an impact screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the shackle to the car body, and remove it from its seat. We install a new shackle with soundproofing material.
4. Let's start removing the constipation: unscrew the plastic float and remove the stem.
5. We unscrew the car door card, two screws, eight plastic clips around the perimeter.
6. We disconnect the block with wires from the double-glazed window control unit, speakers, and central locking.
7. From the outside, unscrew the three screws that secure the lock body to the door.
8. We remove the two rods, having first disconnected them with pliers.
9. We carry out preventive maintenance, clean the seat, remove old grease, and apply a thin layer of new one.
10. Let's start installing the new lock.
11. We assemble the structure in the reverse order, unless there are other breakdowns that require surgical intervention or elimination.

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones. Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

• tightness of locking the door;
• increased noise when opening/closing;
• the central lock does not lock the door and does not respond to signals;
• unlocking is accompanied by a creaking, metallic grinding sound;
• While driving, the door vibrates, cracks are visible in the places of contact with the standard seal.

Common Causes of Premature Wear

• failure to comply with the deadlines for technical inspection, preventative maintenance, lubrication, and replacement of worn elements;
• third-party mechanical damage resulting in deformation of the door or lock;
• manufacturing defects at the factory;
• the lock has become loose due to loosening of the fastening;
• violation of the adjustment algorithm;
• human factor: systematically locking the door with force.

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

1. We place the car on a level platform and provide access to the trunk lid.
2. We take safety measures when carrying out work.
3. We unscrew two screws and remove part of the lower plastic trim of the trunk lid.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the lock body to the trunk lid;
5. Using pliers, remove the rod from the button to the body.
6. We remove the constipation, carry out preventive maintenance, lubricate the threads and the rod end.
7. We install a new lock and assemble the structure in the reverse order.
8. We unscrew two screws, remove the standard shackle, install a new one with sound-insulating material.

How the central lock works

On the VAZ 2110, the central lock is a system designed to open and close vehicle doors. For more convenient control of the central locking on the VAZ 2110, and on other cars, a remote control has long been used. If necessary, the central lock can be configured so that it turns on automatically after a certain period of time. Depending on the system, the key fob can be used to control the trunk door, the engine compartment, and sometimes the central locking system even allows you to open and close the windows. In the event of an accident, the central locking system can operate automatically, opening all doors of the vehicle.

The VAZ central locking system includes sensors in its design - these are door limit switches, solenoids, and a control unit. The limit switch is designed to fix the position of the doors, and data about this, in turn, is transmitted to the VAZ 2110. The purpose of the switches is to secure the structural elements of the door lock.

The system itself is locked using one switch, and the unlocking function is performed by another sensor. The design includes two more switches that ensure normal operation of the locking mechanism. Another one, the fifth switch, is mounted on the lever mechanism of the drive; its purpose is to detect the position of the door. If the car door is open, the contacts of the elements close, and accordingly, the entire system is deactivated. To perform a particular function, the control unit transmits an impulse to certain control devices, thus activating the drive.

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Conclusion

Let's make the alarm system and central locking together

Any modern alarm unit is equipped with two relays connected to the central locking control unit. One relay is opening, the second is locking, and the circuit in the general case looks like this:

In our case, the green and white cords coming from the signaling unit will be required, as indicated in the diagram. However, they will not be the only ones needed. We will connect the relay contacts to breaks in the standard wiring. This means there will be not 2, but 4 cords.

Connection diagram for VAZ central locker

Take another look at the diagram published in the first chapter. We will connect the relay to the gap in the white and brown wires going from the microswitch to the central lock control unit. And it is obvious that it is easier to break these wires near the 8-pin connector. The same one shown at the beginning.

To avoid any questions, we will show you what should happen as a result:

Connection diagram, central lock VAZ

The common contacts are connected to the wires coming out of the microphone. The white cord continues with the brown wire coming from the door, and so on. Normally closed contacts are also used, along with normally open ones. These are the features of connecting to the VAZ central locking system.

An approximate sequence of actions performed by the installer:

1. Make and lay a 4-core cable running from the signaling unit to the 8-pin connector;
2. Connect the cable on the side of the alarm unit (see the last diagram);
3. Near the 8-pin connector, disconnect the white and brown wires coming from the microswitch (pins 5 and 7). The main thing is not to confuse them with the wires going to the triangular connector “C”;
4. Make connections to the broken wires, white and brown. That's all.

We have given this sequence to emphasize once again that the relays are switched on between the microphone and the central lock control unit. There is no need to connect any additional devices. As a result, the alarm system will be able to control the state of the locks.

All wires added to the car structure must be protected (use heat-resistant tubes or electrical tape). Twisting is not the worst method to connect two wires. But it's even better to use soldering.

It would seem that if a person has experience working with electrical equipment, he can do everything according to the instructions given. As a result, if no mistakes are made, you may encounter an interesting phenomenon. Instead of closing, there will be a short-term locking followed by opening. And vice versa. What to do in this case?

Take a look at what exactly may be present in some of the configurations:

The driver's door may not have an actuator. And then, it is useless to connect the signaling system to the control unit. There is no actuator, which means there is no one to close or open the door and move the microphone lever. Let's say the locks are closed, and then we remove ground from the brown wire and we get the following: the white wire is on ground, unlocking occurs.

We note the following: installation can only be carried out when you are sure that there is an actuator in the driver's door.

There were configurations where only a microswitch was installed. There is no need for arrogance here - adding an actuator will be difficult, since standard wiring must go to it. As you understand, it may not be available from the factory. And it’s unclear what to do then.

There remains one unanswered question - where exactly the central locking control unit is located. In these VAZ models, if there is a central locking system, then there is also a control unit. And it is located under the torpedo cover, next to the driver, on the right:

We remove the “beard” of the torpedo and look at what is on the upper right. On the same plane with the radio connector there are two boxes attached - the one we need, as well as the immobilizer (if there is one).

We would be lying if we did not say that in reality there is another option for installing the alarm. Standardly, only two power cables go to the actuators. Having a power outlet equipped with a fuse, these cables are connected directly to the alarm relay. This option, as you might guess, is not recommended. Imagine what would happen if the alarm system broke. The central lock must remain, but in this case this will not be done. Happy connection!

DIY electric trunk lock connection diagram

Many car enthusiasts who independently “pump” their cars are wondering: how to properly connect the electrics? This question arises in almost any installation. After all, simply screwing on the blocks, locks and strips is not difficult, but only properly connected electricians can make the system work.

If we take into account one of the most pressing problems - the installation of remote control locks for the fifth door, then the correct wiring diagram for the electric trunk lock will help us here.

You can find it either in the instructions that should be included with the device, or you can take it from a reliable source, but it is better to use proven options and ask friends and acquaintances what scheme they used.

Remote trunk control

Preparation for installation

We purchase a lock kit. There are a lot of manufacturers of auto parts on the market now, but there are no special differences between the sets. It is important that the device has a warranty card and instructions for use and connection. Also in the box you will find:

• Activator;
• terminal;
• Wires;
• Relay.

Additionally, you need to stock up on a set of standard tools: pliers, screwdriver, screwdrivers, multimeter, drill with carbide drill bit.

In addition to the standard accessories, immediately buy additional wires; it is quite possible that the length of those you find in the box will not be enough for you.

Black heat-resistant insulating tape, corrugated tubes, and clips for fastening the trim will also be useful, since very often the trim of car elements is attached to disposable ones.

Device set

Self-installation

First of all, it is necessary to secure the electric drive to the trunk lid and provide it with a mechanical connection to the lock itself. To do this, you will have to make two cuts on the lock, and bend the resulting free “tongue”.

Thus, we gained access directly to that part of the lock, by pulling which the trunk lid will open. Now we attach the long metal stick from the kit so that the lock can close when the system is operating.

It is quite possible that you will have to cut off extra centimeters of this pin.

Device installation process

Now our device is installed properly and all that remains is to connect the electrics. To do this, we will use the diagram below.

Important! When working with electrical equipment, remove the battery!

In most cars, electrics operate on 12V positive voltage. However, if you doubt that everything is the same for you, it is better to check with the car dealer and not use this diagram for connection. It is very important to make the correct connection of the wires, since the proper operation of your car as a whole depends on it.

At best, some options will simply not work correctly; at worst, a short circuit will occur. And it is not always possible to restore the electrics and electronics of the car after it. And this work will cost a lot of money. In addition to the above, lay wires where standard wiring is already laid.

In difficult places, for example, when you have to pull the wire from the passenger compartment to the trunk, it is necessary to use protective corrugated tubes.

Electrical connection diagram

Electrical work

To begin with, according to the diagram, we connect all the elements located in the trunk. Now you need to tighten the wires to the driver's door. It all depends on the car model.

For some it will be convenient to pull the electrics through the door sills from below, for others the option of protective strips from above is suitable. Immediately secure the wires with cable ties. If the length is not enough, take an additional wire, solder the joint with a soldering iron and rewind it with tape.

Let's continue connecting. We connect the negative wire to the electric drive, and then connect the second negative wire to the main control relay. The third, also known as the last wire, needs to be connected to the alarm.

To do this, you need to find the control unit; most likely, it is located under the dashboard. In it you will find free contacts for connection.

Electrical connection to central locking

We check, find the negative one and connect. These are the last steps we need to perform. After this, we return the battery to its place and check the functionality of the system. There are cases when the lock does not have enough traction to close.

In this option, it is enough to install an additional spring for the lock and the problem should be eliminated. There is one more point that we have not covered - the remote control button. Installation is very simple, and the connection method is described in the same diagram above.

You can use absolutely any analogue for the button, even from power windows. And the location also depends solely on your preferences.

Possible button location

Additional modernization of locks

If you dream of your car doors opening and closing as smoothly as in foreign cars, try installing silent locks.

Such a device can be installed on any model of Zhiguli. For representatives of the retro era, such modernization is also possible, but the locks themselves will have to be filed a little.

By the way, you can also put it on the trunk. In general, there is no limit to perfection.

Silent locks

And the installation is, in truth, very simple and transparent. It is enough to dismantle the old locks, try not to drop the necessary elements inside the door, or remove the trim in advance. And then install new analogues on two bolts.

There are situations when, after installation, the door does not close tightly or warps slightly, causing cracks to form. Solving the problem is also very simple by adjusting the location of the device.

In general, initially try to secure it exactly where the old one was.

Central trunk locking - installation and connection

Source: https://autolocked.ru/zamki/sxema-podklyucheniya-elektrozamka-bagazhnika

Replacement of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110, dismantling.

First of all, we need to disconnect the ground from the battery so that in further work we do not accidentally close the contacts, which will lead to a short circuit.

Next, remove the casing on the steering column, otherwise we simply won’t be able to get to the lock. You can also remove the turn switches if they really bother you too much.

Using a chisel and hammer, unscrew the fastening bolts; their heads are round (photo 1)

Therefore, this must be done carefully so as not to knock off the head on the bolt and unscrew them with pliers.

Insert and turn the key to the “zero” position. This action will disable the anti-theft device.

We remove the bracket on which these bolts and the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110 were attached. Place labels on the contact wires in different colors so as not to confuse them.

If you decide to partially repair the ignition switch. Maybe changing the lamp that illuminates the larva, the microswitch. Then you should follow some tips. And also first remove the lock itself.

Sequencing:

• We disconnect the connectors that used to operate the ignition switch.
• To change the backlight bulbs, disconnect the connector and remove it with pliers.
• To replace the contacts, press the latches with a screwdriver.
• We take a shaped screwdriver, unscrew the three screws, and remove the rod.
• Use a regular screwdriver to remove the latch and remove the microswitch itself.

Installation details

Very often, even the so-called silent locks (which are usually installed instead of old, noisy ones) are further modified.

There are several methods, but it is important to install a gasket between the body and the mechanism, since there remains a gap that affects the penetration of air, dust, and also the volume of sound. If it suddenly turns out that after installation the door does not latch, you can solve the problem in several ways:

If it suddenly turns out that after installation the door does not latch, you can solve the problem in several ways:

• Strengthening the lower springs (better suited for an old, noisy mechanism);
• Installing a cube of foam rubber in place of the bullet spring;
• By installing one large spring from below.

Removing the lock and lock drive of the trunk lid of Lada Granta

Tools:

• Small flat screwdriver
• Ratchet wrench
• Extension
• 8 mm head
• 10 mm head

Notes:

Remove the trunk lock and its drive if it needs to be replaced.

Removing the lock drive

1. Open the trunk lid and, using a screwdriver, remove the rod from the ball end of the lock cylinder mechanism lever.

2. Using a 10 mm socket with an extension, unscrew the nut securing the base of the lock drive to the outer panel of the trunk lid. To unscrew the other nut, insert the key into the cylinder mechanism and, turning the lever, use the same tool to unscrew the nut located under the lever.

3. Remove the lock drive from the trunk lid.

4. Remove the gasket and remove the lock drive from the decorative trim.

5. Install the lock drive in reverse order.

Removing the lock

1. Using an 8 mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the lock.

2. Remove the lock from the hole in the inner panel of the trunk lid.

3. By pressing the latch, disconnect the wiring harness block from the electric locking drive and remove the lock together with the rod.

4. To remove the drive rod, turn it towards the groove in the hole and remove the rod through it.

5. Install the lock in the reverse order without tightening the bolts. Close and then open the trunk lid and, without moving the lock, tighten the bolts securing it.

The article is missing:

• Photo of the instrument
• High-quality photos of repairs