Technical information of the Lada Kalina car since 2004

Description of design

The VAZ-11194 engine is a gasoline, four-stroke, four-cylinder, in-line, sixteen-valve, with two camshafts. The cylinder operating order is: 1-3-4-2, counting from the generator drive pulley.
The power supply system is phased distributed fuel injection (Euro-3 toxicity standards). On the right (along the direction of the car) on the engine are located: timing gear and coolant pump drive (toothed belt), generator drive (V-ribbed belt), oil pump, crankshaft position sensor. On the left are: thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, coolant temperature indicator sensor fluids, oil pressure sensor, starter (on the clutch housing).

Front: fuel rail with injectors, knock sensor, oil level indicator, generator (bottom right), phase sensor (top right). Rear: catalytic converter, oil filter, coolant pump supply pipe. On top are the intake manifold, throttle body, coils and spark plugs. The air filter with mass air flow sensor is located to the left of the engine.

Cylinder block

The cylinder block is cast from cast iron, the cylinders are bored directly into the block. The cylinders are honed using Federal Mogul technology. The nominal cylinder diameter is 76.5 mm. For selective engine assembly, depending on the dimensions (diameters) obtained during machining, the cylinders and pistons are divided into three classes every 0.01 mm - A, B, C. The class of each cylinder in accordance with its diameter is marked in Latin letters on the lower plane of the cylinder block .

Cylinder class marking on the bottom plane of the cylinder block

The holes in the cylinder block for the cylinder head mounting screws have an M10x1.25 mm thread (in contrast to the holes with an M12x1.25 mm thread for the cylinder block of the eight-valve VAZ-21114 engine).

At the bottom of the cylinder block there are five crankshaft main bearing supports with removable caps, which are attached to the block with special bolts.

Crankshaft 11183 (marking location shown by arrow) is the same as on the VAZ-21114 engine. Crank radius 37.8 mm

. The engine is equipped with a new lightweight connecting rod and piston group (in comparison with the connecting rod and piston groups of engines of the “tenth” family) manufactured by Federal Mogul, which made it possible to reduce inertial loads.

2 — upper compression ring;

7 - lower compression ring;

8 — oil scraper ring expander. Connecting rods 11194 are lightweight, steel, I-section. Axial fixation of the connecting rod in the cylinder is along the piston bosses. When manufacturing a connecting rod, a method of controlled breaking off of its cover is used. When assembling such a connecting rod, both of its parts fit almost perfectly, ensuring optimal “steepness” of the hole in the lower head of the connecting rod. The cover is attached to the connecting rod with two screws (with M9x1mm thread), which are screwed into the threaded holes in the connecting rod body. To avoid mixing up the caps during assembly, they, like the connecting rods, are marked with a number (it should be on the same side of the connecting rod and the cap). When assembling the engine, the connecting rod cap fastening screws are tightened to the yield point of the thread - a torque of 20 N*m + 135°. Therefore, each time the engine is reassembled, the screws should be replaced with new ones.

Fracture surfaces of cover 1 and connecting rod 2

A bushing made of antifriction material is pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod.

Connecting rods are not divided into classes based on the diameter of the hole in the upper head for the piston pin, but are divided into two classes based on weight - after 7 g. When assembling the engine, connecting rods of the same weight class are installed in it.

The connecting rod weight class is marked with one or two marks (black lines) on the connecting rod cover

The piston pin is steel, tubular cross-section, “floating” type (can rotate in the piston bosses and in the bushing of the upper connecting rod head). The pin is secured against longitudinal movement by two retaining spring rings located in the grooves of the piston bosses. The outer diameter of the finger is 18.0 mm (there is no division into classes based on the outer diameter of the fingers).

The piston is made of aluminum alloy. The piston is lightweight - the piston skirt is shortened in comparison with the pistons of engines of cars of the “tenth” family. The hole for the piston pin is offset by 0.5 mm from the diametrical plane of the piston, so when installing the piston, you must follow the arrow stamped on its bottom - the arrow should be directed towards the generator drive pulley.

According to the outer diameter of the skirt, pistons, like cylinders, are divided into three classes (A, B, C) every 0.01 mm

Marking on the piston crown

:

1 - piston class designation;

2 - arrow In the upper part of the piston there are three grooves for a “thin” set of piston rings from Getze (part of the Federal Mogul company).

To cool the pistons during engine operation, their bottoms are washed from below with oil through special nozzles pressed into the cylinder block in the area of ​​the second, third, fourth and fifth main bearing supports.

Location of piston cooling nozzles

. Aluminum alloy cylinder head, common to all four cylinders.

Cylinder head assembly (marking shown by arrow)

. The head is centered on the cylinder block with two bushings and secured with ten screws. Between the block and the cylinder head, a two-layer metal gasket with spring-loaded stampings is installed, ensuring the sealing of gas joints and channels.

The use of such a gasket made it possible to reduce the deformation of the cylinder walls that occurs when tightening the cylinder head mounting screws, and, as a result, reduce mechanical losses in the engine.

There are two camshafts located at the top of the cylinder head. The camshaft supports (five supports for each shaft) are detachable. The lower parts of the supports are made in the cylinder head, and the upper parts are made in the camshaft bearing housing, which is bolted to the cylinder head. The holes in the supports are processed in the assembly of the cylinder head with the camshaft bearing housing. If necessary, replace the camshaft bearing housing together with the cylinder head.

What does a car consist of?

Of course, the structure of a modern machine includes many different components and parts, but even among them the main ones can be identified:

• transmission,
• body,
• chassis,
• engine,
• control systems,
• electrical equipment.

Each of these elements plays an important role that is difficult to overestimate. To understand how important the correct operation of each part is, let’s look at them in more detail.

Body

The body is the supporting part of the car. It is to it that all components and assemblies are attached. Nowadays, automobile manufacturers are trying to do everything possible to select the most durable and lightest composite resin that will serve as the basis of the product.

The fact is, ordinary metal weighs quite a lot. Increasing weight negatively affects dynamics, top speed and acceleration, and driving a heavy car is very difficult. As a result, non-standard approaches to creating bodies are now increasingly being used. For example, hydrocarbon fiber is used in construction.

Perhaps the most striking car where this technology was used was the Lykan Hypersport. You might have seen this car in the movie "Fast and Furious 7". The use of carbon fiber to create the body made it possible to greatly lighten the car, significantly increasing all its characteristics. By the way, the cost of the car is more than three million.

In fact, the body is the frame that holds the entire structure of the car together. At the same time, it must have sufficient rigidity to withstand truly heavy loads. At speeds of more than 200 kilometers per hour, the driver’s life depends on its strength.

The body used in the construction of the car must not only be light and durable, but also have the correct aerodynamic shape. Speed ​​and control depend on how effectively the machine body cuts air flows.

Traditionally, the body, which is part of the vehicle structure, can be divided into the following elements:

• spars,
• roof,
• brakes,
• hanging parts,
• engine compartment,
• bottom.

In order to achieve greater rigidity, reinforcing elements are welded to the underbody structure of the car. They provide increased strength and greater safety of the entire structure.

Each of these elements is connected to each other. So the spars are one solid structure together with the bottom. In some cases they are welded to it. The main task of these parts in a car is to create support for the suspension.

If we talk about attached parts, then the wings immediately come to mind. You also can’t ignore the trunk, doors and hood. They are attached parts, but are very closely connected to the car body.

Such nuances need to be taken into account if you want to tune your iron horse. Moreover, it is to the mounted body parts that the modding parts are attached. Suffice it to recall the same spoiler. Even neon inserts are mounted around the perimeter of the bottom.

Tuning the body gives the greatest visual effect. In addition, additional elements, such as a low-slung bumper, can provide the design with much better aerodynamic qualities.

You can't go anywhere without a chassis

The chassis of a car plays the role of a foundation. It is thanks to this that the car can move. For example, wheels, suspension and axles are all its elements. Without them, the movement itself would be impossible.

The system can have both front independent suspension and rear dependent suspension. Nowadays, most cars use the first option, as it gives the best controllability of the vehicle.

The main difference between independent suspension is that each wheel is mounted separately. Moreover, in the structure of the car, all wheels have their own fastening systems.

Dependent suspension is considered a kind of archaism in automotive circles. Nevertheless, some companies still use it in order to save money and simplify the design of the car as much as possible. Nevertheless, it ensures high reliability of the design. Moreover, the tricks of some manufacturers make it possible to achieve truly outstanding results using this outdated technology.

I would like to remember the same German concern BMW. This company has been producing cars for many years that feature rear dependent suspension.

Nevertheless, rear-wheel drive cars of the German brand are famous all over the world. Moreover, many drivers buy these cars with a rear suspension device precisely because of the pleasure that the driver receives while sitting behind the wheel of this monster.

Typically the rear suspension is a live axle. In some cases, machine builders install a rigid beam, and this is quite enough to ensure optimal structural strength.

Brakes

If the previous part contained the car itself and its entire structure, then the role of the braking system is completely different. Reliable brakes can prevent many accidents and save millions of lives.

Many automotive experts do not consider it necessary to highlight this element in the car. They just consider it part of the chassis. However, this is fundamentally wrong. After all, the importance of brakes in modern heavy traffic is difficult to overestimate.

Nowadays, three elements of the brake structure are most often distinguished:

• Working - allows you to control the speed. This subsystem is responsible for gradually reducing speed until the vehicle comes to a complete stop.
• Spare - it is needed when the main system in the car fails. Usually it is made completely autonomous.
• The parking brake is a handbrake that holds the car in one place while you are away.

Modern brake systems use many additional devices that provide better brake performance. Of particular importance are a variety of amplifiers and anti-lock braking systems. These elements make it possible not only to increase the efficiency of the system several times, but also to increase its comfort for the driver.

Transmission

This device transmits torque from the shaft to the wheels. The structure consists of the following elements:

• clutch,
• hinges,
• gearboxes,
• drive axle.

Thanks to the clutch, designers in the car establish a connection between the engine shafts and the gearbox. In turn, the gearbox greatly reduces the load on the engine, increasing its service life and ensuring the most efficient fuel consumption.

It is worth recognizing that in recent years many options for gearbox design have been invented. The first was a manual transmission. It was invented at the beginning of the twentieth century. The first car on which it was installed was the same legendary American model - T.

About 40 years have passed since then, and in the 50s the automatic transmission was invented. Now it is not the driver who decides when to engage a new gear, but the hydraulic system. The advantage of such a device is its simplicity and smooth switching.

Finally, the third round of evolution of the gearbox device is the robot. This box combines all the advantages of a manual and automatic transmission. The thing is that a smart program switches gears. It determines the required time to within a few tenths of a millisecond and carries out the transition. As a result, the driver receives enormous fuel savings.

Engine

Perhaps this is the most important part of the car - its heart. The speed and dynamics of the machine depend to the greatest extent on the power of this device. The essence of the operating principle of this part is extremely simple. The engine converts thermal energy into electrical energy by burning fuel.

Electrical equipment and control systems

The fact is that every year these complexes of car devices become more and more connected with each other. Smart systems manage wiring voltage, battery operation and power consumption. This approach turns cars into thinking devices that decide where the driver is best to park and monitor cars driving nearby.

Signs of the need to change the oil on Lada Kalina

There are also reasons for changing the oil that are not related to regulations. The nature of these symptoms varies and most often leads to an oil change:

• spontaneous engine shutdown;
• difficult starting;
• active lamp on the instrument panel;
• blue smoke from the exhaust pipe;
• increasing the operating temperature of the power plant;
• Increased noise during operation, vibration appears.

Before you start replacing the lubricant, you should check the dipstick. Checking the oil level is done after the machine has been idle for a long time, preferably in the morning. The liquid must not be cold. The car must be on a level surface.

Then you need to lower the dipstick into the neck - the level should be above the Min mark. Next, you need to drop the oil onto the paper and let it spread. Too dark color and dirt indicate the need for replacement.

VAZ 21099

The idea of ​​​​creating a sedan based on the 2108/2109 models haunted the creators from the very moment they were launched into series. The fact is that in the USSR, even in the 80s, a car was still a luxury and the buyer preferred modern Samaras to the time-tested “classics”, which had a more spacious trunk and a comfortable interior.

In this regard, VAZ management constantly received letters from Soviet car enthusiasts demanding the release of a new sedan. In Togliatti they listened to these requirements and in 1990 launched the Lada 21099 into mass production.

Oil volume in Kalina engines 1 and 2

Lada Kalina cars of the 1st generation were equipped with 4 types of power plants. The table shows the oil volume depending on the engine model.

These figures cannot be reduced, otherwise the likelihood of piston jamming and damage to the liners increases. The first sign of a lack of lubricating fluid is a signal on the dashboard.

The table shows the oil volumes for Lada Kalina 2 depending on the type of power plant:

The situation is also dangerous if the level is elevated above normal. Consequences: reduction in power, entry into the combustion chamber. In the next case, the converter fails. Additionally, the expansion of the liquid when heated is taken into account. Even a slight excess will lead to negative consequences.

Trial

Nothing extra

These two cars look quite attractive. Their design is devoid of provocative solutions, but it is harmonious and thoughtful. “Nine” has a more rapid body profile, while 21099 is more sedate and respectable.

In terms of geometric cross-country ability, the 2109 has a slight advantage due to shorter body overhangs. But driving over potholes on the 21099 is more problematic due to the long stern.

Comfortable and cozy

The interior of both Samaras is identical. It is worth mentioning in advance that the quality of finishing materials is far from ideal - hard, echoing plastic everywhere. Of course, plastic made it possible to reduce the weight of cars, but it deprived VAZ models of that touch of luxury for which the Zhiguli of the classic family is famous. At the same time, the ergonomics are good and you don’t have to be distracted from the road thanks to the compact layout of the controls.

Elastic front seats provide good body support. However, a tall driver will complain about the lack of adjustment of his seat in the longitudinal plane. Only two passengers are comfortable on the back seat, provided their height is less than 175 centimeters.

As for the luggage compartment, there are differences between 2109 and 21099. The “Nine” has a trunk volume of 270 liters, while its more practical companion platform has this figure already equal to 400 liters.

Familiar habits.

The most popular engine for both cars is a 1.5-liter unit that produces 70 horsepower. This unit has good pickup in the mid-speed zone, and the sensitive accelerator pedal enhances the sensation of acceleration.

A manual transmission with a closely spaced gear row makes it possible to realize the engine's potential well in the first three gears, but the clarity of the shifts and selectivity of the gears are mediocre.

VAZ 21099 relative to 2109 is a little more stable at high speed. However, in corners the Nine feels more solid and has better cornering stability. The steering is informative, but the long steering rack deprives the steering wheel of sensitivity in the zero zone.

The long-travel suspension confidently handles unevenness without breaking through when the cabin is fully loaded. Although, it is a bit harsh, so it cannot provide a very smooth ride even on small bumps.

Tips for choosing oil and filter for Kalina

According to the factory's recommendation, the oil for filling into the Lada Kalina engine is synthetic or semi-synthetic. Among the original compositions recommended by the manufacturer, we can highlight Lada 5W-40 and RN Magnum Ultratec 5W-40 from Rosneft.

There are other recommended oils with similar characteristics from other brands:

1. Mobil Super 3000 X1 5W-40.
2. Shell Helix HX8 5W-40.
3. Lukoil Genesis Armortech 5W-40.

To select oil according to characteristics depending on engine type, you can use the table:

The choice of viscosity depends on the climatic conditions of the region. If the temperature in winter drops to -30°C, and in summer rises to +35°C, stop at SAE 5W-40. For cars with more than 100 thousand km, it is recommended to take a thicker composition, for example, SAE 10W-40.

What to consider when choosing oil:

• synthetic compounds have better fluidity, which reduces friction of the components;
• pour “summer” and “winter” compositions depending on the season of the year, they differ in viscosity;
• choose original oil from the manufacturer with the official approval of AvtoVAZ - Rosneft, Lukoil, Mobil, Gazpromneft;
• Be guided by the price-quality rule; it is recommended to study reviews from car enthusiasts.

The original catalog numbers of the oil filter for Lada Kalina are 21080-1012005-0 and 2108-10120050-10. During assembly, models from or “Salyut-Filter” are most often installed.

However, the quality of the paper used is low, so car owners prefer to choose a more reliable manufacturer, for example, MANN (W914/2) or Knecht/MAHLE (OC 384).

Bottom view

The front of the car.
The levers, braces and anti-roll bar of the front suspension are clearly visible (like the front wheels, they belong to the group of chassis elements).
1 – front wheel suspension arm (chassis); 2 – lever extension (chassis); 3 – engine (sump pan with oil drain plug); 4 – gearbox; 5 – front wheel drive shaft (front wheel drives belong to the transmission); 6 – anti-roll bar (chassis); 7 – exhaust system (exhaust system).

The back of the car's underbody.
The beam is clearly visible, the shock absorbers and springs of the rear suspension are partially visible.
The main muffler of the exhaust system is located next to the wheel. At the rear of the car, behind the rear suspension beam, you can see a niche in the bottom of the trunk, which houses the spare wheel. 1 – shock absorber; 2 – rear suspension beam (chassis); 3 – fuel filter of the power supply system (only a car with an injection engine); 4 – main muffler of the exhaust gas system; 5 – niche in the bottom of the trunk for a spare wheel.

The bottom of the car under the driver and front passenger seats.
Under the bottom, parallel to the additional muffler pipe, there is a transmission control drive rod.
1 – additional exhaust system muffler; 2 – pipelines for hydraulic drive of the brake system and engine power supply system; 3 – drive rod for controlling the gearbox (transmission).

The bottom of the car under the seats of the rear passengers.
The fuel tank is located under the bottom, in front of the rear suspension beam.
Near the fuel tank, there is a pressure regulator that adjusts the brake fluid pressure in the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels. The pressure regulator belongs to the brake system. 1 – additional exhaust system muffler; 2 – fluid pressure regulator in the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels; 3 – fuel tank.

The G8 made a huge impression on Soviet car enthusiasts. Many were amazed by the excellent handling and dynamics of this car, but it also had its drawbacks. The main one is low practicality due to the three-door body. The concern decided to correct this and gradually expanded the body range of the model.

What happens if the replacement is untimely?

If operation without replacement exceeds 15-20 thousand km, the consequences will be negative. The liquid becomes cloudy and its density increases. As a result, it does not perform its functions, and in particularly advanced cases it even complicates the operation of the engine. The result is jamming and expensive repairs.

• engine overheating;
• the need to replace gaskets and seals;
• the appearance of defects on the cylinder head;
• oil enters the combustion chambers.

If there are minor discrepancies with the technical regulations, there will be no serious problems. There is a technical reserve of up to 1500 km. The oil will still retain its properties, but not to the same extent. There is an increase in friction and wear of the piston group.

Automation of the fifth door

One of the main innovations is the presence of an automated opening of the fifth door at the rear of the car. This process can be controlled using three manipulators - manually using a key, through the machine control panel and a button located on the car key fob. The door is opened using an electric drive powered by the car's battery. Of course, one can argue a lot about the usefulness of AvtoVAZ’s new invention in terms of opening the fifth door, but the absence of a handle on it is quite unusual. Kalina owners say that this can cause confusion when loading luggage, since out of habit there will be a desire to open the door manually, and it is not always convenient to reach into your pocket for a key fob or run to the control panel every time to press one button.

Filling with new coolant Kalina

The installation of new pipes is complete. Now the most interesting part is that you need to fill in new antifreeze. Don't forget to tighten the bolts from the drain holes back. I use Felix Green G11. To avoid the occurrence of a large number of air pockets, before filling in the coolant, I removed one hose from the throttle heating - the highest point of the cooling system. During the process of filling the system, air could be heard escaping. Out of 10 kg of antifreeze, about 2 liters remain in the canister.

I filled it up to the MAX mark on the expansion tank and put the hose from the throttle back in place. Now you can try to start the engine and see what happens. Before this, of course, you need to put in place the ignition module and the air filter along with the mass air flow sensor and the adsorber valve.

After the first start, the engine heated up to 120 degrees, but the radiator remained cold. I waited about 10 minutes until the engine cooled down and SLOWLY unscrewed the cap from the expansion tank, releasing the pressure, and then unscrewed it completely. At that moment I heard a gurgling sound - excess air was coming out. Some fluid has leaked into the system. I added new fluid to the reservoir and started the engine again. This time everything worked as it should - the radiator warmed up, the fan turned on, the stove was heating, the temperature stayed around 90º.

Sources

• https://avtonomnaya-gazifikaciya.ru/kalina/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-1.html
• https://gil-service.ru/dvigatel/dorabotka-termostata-kalina.html
• https://krutigayki.ru/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-kalina-vse-o-tom-chto-delat-chtoby-dvs-avtomobilya-ne-peregrevalsya/
• https://na-vi.ru/sistema-ohlazdenia-kalina/
• https://TrueScooters.ru/vidy-dvigatelej/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-lada-kalina.html
• https://CdmService.ru/salon/ohlazhdenie-dvigatelya-lada-kalina.html
• https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/kalina/motor-i-korobka/sistema-ohlazhdeniya.html
• https://topdetal.ru/stati/boremsya_s_peregrevom_i_kholodnoy_pechkoy_na_kaline/
• https://autobryansk.info/sistema-ohlazhdenija-dvigatelja-kalina-8-klapanov.html
• https://vaz.today/sistema-ohlazhdeniya-kalina

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How to modify the cooling system of the Lada Kalina

Traditionally, modification of the cooling system on the Lada Kalina involves the installation of a new thermostat with 6 recesses, a filter through which antifreeze passes, and a faucet for the furnace mechanism. Service station workers also recommend installing another pump. This amount of work requires repair skills and knowledge. The average driver does not have them.

Therefore, craftsmen came up with another way to improve the cooling system. Follow the step by step instructions:

1. The cooling system should be looped with a hose that was previously used to warm up the throttle assembly.
2. Take an extra hose, a tee and enough clamps, and then install a connection with a smaller diameter. This will help ventilate the cooling system and bring it back to life.
3. It is preferable to place the air vent closer to the thermostat; a prepared tee will help with this. It should be cut into the supply hose to the radiator unit.
4. Now start processing the second end of the air outlet component, attach it to the steam outlet passing near the RB fitting.

The proposed modification to the cooling system of the Lada Kalina will make it possible to maintain the temperature when moving the car at a constant level of 90 to 95 degrees. At the start, the stove warms up to 50 degrees. How expensive is this method of improving a cooling system prone to air pollution? When purchasing the missing coolant, tees and clamps, 1 m of hose, 600 rubles were spent. Those who have already tried the modification note a noticeable decrease in engine temperature, but before that it heated up to 100 degrees, and cold air flowed into the cabin from the furnace mechanism.

Possible malfunctions of the ODS, diagnostics

Almost always, a breakdown of the cooling function of a car is caused by an antifreeze leak. You should inspect the car under the hood for possible leaks. The cause of the leak may be:

• or a leaky clamp;
• or a radiator failure.

Then in the first case the element is replaced; this is not difficult and does not take long. As for the radiator, it is better to have it repaired. There are also no particular difficulties here: often you just need to solder the holes.

The reasons for overheating of this car can also be:

• thermostat. Its suitability is checked using both pipes: the temperature of the latter should not be sharply different (this is determined on a warm engine). Otherwise, the thermostat is faulty and antifreeze circulates in a small circle;
• clogging of radiator honeycombs. You can solve the problem by cleaning the outside of this element. Often this is not always easy to do, but there are no other methods other than manually cleaning the honeycombs;
• Fan malfunction. When the heating level of the coolant increases, this part should begin to operate. If this does not happen, check the relay, wiring or t° sensor;
• air in the coolant system. Lada Kalina is not insured, among other things, against the so-called air lock inside the system. In general, previous types of breakdowns are eliminated quite quickly and almost everything is clear with them. In the latter case, it is necessary to understand in more detail. The question - how to remove air from the Kalina cooling system - is really very important for the optimal functioning of the totality of the elements of this car.

Airlock

If the cooling system becomes airy, you need to do the following: with the expansion tank cap open, start the power unit, squeezing the gas pedal from time to time, warm it up until the t° sensor “reaches” the red scale. After “starting” the ventilation device, “add up the gas” a little more and then you can turn off the ignition.

If the cooling system is still leaking air and the above measures have not led to anything, you should act more radically. What needs to be done to remove air from the cooling system?

First, remove the power motor screen (dismantling is done in an upward direction).

Loosen the clamp with a screwdriver and remove one of the tubes from the heating fitting of the throttle assembly.

Unscrew the cap of the expansion tank. Cover the neck of the opened container with a clean piece of cloth. Now blow into the tank: coolant should flow from the tube that was removed. If you fail to break through the above container, close the lid and place the tube in its place.

Next, warm up the engine again and turn off the ignition. Then the tube must be removed again, without removing the lid from the tank, and wait until the antifreeze flows.

Since this liquid is very poisonous and dangerous for people, drain the coolant with extreme caution. Remember about safety: get rubber gloves. Monitor the temperature of the tubes. Keep in mind that you only need to drain the coolant when the engine has cooled down.

Now the tube is put on the fitting, the clamps are tightened. At this stage, the problem of how to remove air from the cooling system of the car has been successfully solved. As you can see, it is possible to eliminate faults in the ODS without the participation of professionals.

SOD Lada Kalina in a certain sense requires improvement.

At the moment, there are the following methods to improve it:

• rework. The car is equipped with a new thermostat. Thus, the temperature of the antifreeze will become stable, and the activity of the interior heating elements will return to normal;
• to minimize coolant malfunction, the machine is equipped with a coolant filter;
• an additional pump in the above-mentioned power unit system. This will force the antifreeze to circulate through the appropriate channels faster, which will definitely reduce engine overheating. And a plus - in cold weather you will not freeze in the car.

Everything that may be important for a motorist on the above topics regarding the Kalina car: what the Lada Kalina heating system is, as well as airing the cooling system, why the cooling system will air, how to remove air from the cooling system, possible malfunctions, necessary alterations more clearly will tell the presented video.

Replacing the thermostat Lada Kalina

Selection and main parameters of wipers for the Lada Kalina car

Problems and methods for solving them

There are few actual reasons for failures and deviations in the functioning of the cooling system in LADA Kalina. Liquid leaks are the most common. They can arise from loose clamps on the pipes, through the gasket or seal of the pump, a broken radiator (also in the heating circuit), etc. Copper radiators used to be subject to repair, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to successfully restore a modern aluminum product. The clamps can be tightened, and if it doesn’t help, they can be replaced, fortunately this is a cheap idea. The radiator is much more expensive, so replacement may be burdensome, but there is no other way.

How to change the running light bulb on a Grant

Granta gearbox with cable drive

Installation of alarm system on Lada Granta

Sometimes the engine cooling system can become clogged. This will require cleaning followed by a complete fluid replacement.

We will also consider other problems that arise in the cooling circuit of the Lada Kalina.

1. Thermostat. An effective diagnostic measure would be to manually touch the pipes connected to the radiator. If the lower radiator hose does not warm up on a warm engine, then we can safely state that the thermostat has failed. The valve stopped opening, preventing the liquid from circulating in a large circle. The only way out is to change the part.
2. The radiator honeycombs are clogged. Here you also need to resort to cleaning. In spring and summer, debris clogs the honeycombs, making the radiator ineffective in terms of cooling.
3. The fan has failed. The first step is to check the integrity of the wiring and the serviceability of the relay in the Lada Kalina with an 8 or 16 valve engine. Most breakdowns point to these components.
4. Airing of the system, the so-called air lock. Often air can get inside the circuit, forming plugs. Airing of the system can often be observed after replacing antifreeze. To combat this phenomenon, open the reservoir cap and raise the engine speed (accelerate). If the traffic jam cannot be removed, we try to raise it in front of the car (as high as possible) and continue to practice with the accelerator. Blowing out the tank until liquid appears from the fitting also helps.

Let's sum it up

So we figured out why there is pressure in the engine cooling system, why it can be excessively high or, conversely, low. There is often nothing complicated about checking it yourself, although a lot depends on the car. For example, it happens that the coolant temperature sensor fails. It can provide incorrect data to control devices, thereby misleading the driver. It can show both a high temperature of the power unit and, conversely, a low one. But this will not mean that the system is not working correctly.

If there are any breakdowns in the cooling system, they must be repaired as soon as possible. It is advisable not to operate a vehicle with a stuck cover or thermostat. After all, for some engines overheating is fatal, and major repairs are not cheap at all. In general, it is worth regularly checking the coolant level in the system to ensure that there are no leaks or other defects. It is also recommended to periodically clean the radiators from dirt, as this can cause increased engine temperature.