Device and purpose
The unit consists of the following parts:
- elastic coupling;
- flange;
- shaft;
- CV joint
In early Niva models, an intermediate shaft with a rigid connection in the form of a cross was installed. However, in recent years, manufacturers have been installing CV shafts on CV joints. Both types of parts are available in stores. Therefore, it will be useful for the owner of a Chevrolet Niva to know the difference between the shafts on the crosspiece and the CV joint.
In the intermediate shafts on the constant velocity joint, the rigid type connections are replaced with a movable connection. This reduces vibration, slows down wear of parts and ensures smooth acceleration when starting from a standstill. The design of the intermediate shaft on CV joints has the following advantages:
- low shock loads on the transfer case and gearbox;
- reduced fuel consumption (by 1-1.5 l/100 km);
- reduced noise in the cabin;
- increased service life;
- maintaining torque even with large deviations;
- Availability of sealed protection against dust and water;
- lower percentage of power loss when transmitting torque;
- increased service life of the part (according to manufacturers);
- simplified shaft installation.
The advantage of a shaft with a cardan is its high strength and reliability.
It is capable of transmitting great forces, so for off-road use and other harsh operating conditions it is worth installing a universal joint shaft. In this case, slight discomfort from vibration is the price to pay for reliability. The factory part number is GM 212302202092000. However, stores offer analogues with different markings from different manufacturers.
Promval at 21214
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gallery392644?MFID=369418&IID=18989929 in any case, I think it will be more reliable than an elastic rubber coupling https://www.nn.ru/
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Chevy Niva blower shaft malfunctions
The parts of the shaft gradually wear out under the influence of load, temperature and chemical exposure. The last two factors concern the rubber coupling and boot. These problems manifest themselves as follows:
- Vibration when starting to move or during acceleration. The reason may be deformation of the bolts or flange of the elastic coupling, or loose bolting of the intermediate shaft.
- Vibration when driving. At speed, the shaft vibrates due to incorrect relative positions of parts, poor assembly or wear of the hinges, or loss of balancing washers. Such manifestations are also typical for deformation of the coupling, flanges or loose threaded fasteners. Another reason for vibration is that the cardan crosspieces turn tightly.
- Traces of oil on the boot. A lubricant leak is possible in two cases: the fastening clamps are loosened or the rubber of the intermediate shaft joint cover is torn.
To troubleshoot problems, it is necessary to check and tighten threaded connections, replace the boot, balance the shaft or replace individual parts. Most of the listed operations require dismantling the industrial shaft. If repair is impossible, all that remains is to replace the assembly part.
Transmission vibrations
This definition does not exist in mechanics, let it be a “popular name”. These vibrations can be divided into two large groups.
- First order. These are poorly balanced or broken cardans, shafts and, of course, wheels. We will not consider this group as a completely “children's version”.
- Second order. This is something that we cannot “notice” when installing a spare part on a car. The most striking example is the flanges of the transfer case and gearboxes, as well as the output flange of the gearbox (helicopter). But these vibrations are noticed by our vestibular apparatus; this is the case when you get out of the car, and your head “floats” as if after a sea motion.
Removal and replacement process
The work is carried out using an inspection pit, overpass or lift. To replace the washer you will need the following tool:
- one socket wrench for 13 and two for 19;
- flat screwdriver;
- small hammer;
- scrap;
- chisel;
- goatee
You will also need to stock up on the following items:
- centering sleeve;
- four self-locking nuts;
- O-ring for flange mounting;
- worm clamp with a diameter of 150 mm.
To remove the intermediate shaft, you must:
- Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the 4 nuts that secure the shaft joint housing to the transfer case flange.
- Place a 150mm diameter worm clamp onto the rubber coupling and tighten it.
- Make marks on the CV joint and the transfer case flange housing to remember their relative positions.
- Loosen the nuts holding the power unit and move it forward 15-20 mm (a crowbar will come in handy here).
- Using 19mm spanners, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt securing the coupling to the gearbox flange.
Important: you have to knock it out using a beard and a hammer.
- Unscrew and remove the other three bolts.
- Move the intermediate shaft towards the gearbox and remove the hinge housing studs from the holes on the transfer case flange.
- Do the same operation with the hinge.
- Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle.
see also
Comments 29
Cardans - on crosses (tirsans), grooves -). There are no vibrations.
I've already had this flush for 85k. There are much less vibrations with it.
I have one like this on Strelka. I installed it a year ago. The real effect came after repairing both cardans and balancing them. As well as replacing the bearings in the Republic of Kazakhstan (the front cover on a double-row vehicle) and here the washout revealed itself completely. In the summer I was driving to the south, the car accelerated to 140 (in Jeeps), zero vibrations. The only thing I didn’t like was in terms of repairs, in order to remove it or at least fold it back you need to hang the RK on the rear cardan, otherwise there’s no way...
PS For those who say that there is zero effect on the crosses, I will say: I have both cardans on the crosses, reinforced belkards.
I agree with the above. It makes sense to replace it if the stock one is dead. I recently installed a CV joint shaft myself. I like.
Yes, it’s worth it, but only if your bagel is ready for replacement
I installed one like this, the stock donut ran 115 thousand and was disassembled a couple of times with crooked hands at a service station and reassembled haphazardly
there is no vibration on it, the transmission has become stiffer and more collected, switching the transfer case to a higher gear on the move no longer rolls, transmission shocks have increased slightly during shifts
fucked up, are there any gaps in there since new?
not there, but throughout the entire transmission, especially in front-wheel drive
Well, since the knocking intensified, it means there are more of them than there were with the bagel!
It's like a donut - it's rubber, it absorbs some of the knocks
not there, but throughout the entire transmission, especially in front-wheel drive
There is also a lot of play in the front drives. The pomegranates themselves do not crunch, so changing them is choking...
The question is - after installation, what has changed, what shank is installed in the gearbox in place of the standard one, in order to install a double CV joint in place of the rubber coupling. How are the knocks and knocks? and is sheepskin worth the candle? and which company is better and why?
Design features
A manual transmission is, of course, a complex device that has a rather complicated operating principle. However, this article will focus on such a component of a modern transmission as its input shaft.
So, how does the input shaft used in a car’s gearbox work, and what are its features? Let's remember what was said in the first section of the article.
The input shaft is a part that is intended to rigidly connect part of the moving unit of the gearbox to the engine and carry out synchronous interaction with the motor itself.
The primary one has a fairly substantial size and is made monolithically of high strength steel. At one end it has a flywheel connected to the engine, and at the other there is a set of gears that go into the body of the box itself.
Each gear is welded onto the shaft rod in such a way that when heated and rotated at a high number of revolutions per minute, the shaft does not fall apart, and the owner does not have to invest in expensive repairs.
The primary type resembles a cylinder with a stepped shape. Each stage has a set of ribs that determine the gear principle of the shaft. It is constantly present in the transmission lubricant, so its service life is quite long, and replacement is required only when carrying out major and preventive repairs of the gearbox.
Installing a New Seal
After removing the axle shaft, the metal shield where the brake pads are attached will remain hanging on the copper pipe with the fluid, so it should be fixed by inserting the 2 upper bolts back into the holes. Then follow the instructions:
- Remove the thick rubber gasket from the rear axle flange.
- Pull out the old oil seal by prying it with a screwdriver or pliers. Clean the seat and wipe with a rag.
- Lightly lubricate the new seal with transmission oil and insert it into the socket of the Niva rear axle as evenly as possible.
- Using a round pipe adapter, press the oil seal into the socket with light blows of a hammer. You can use an old seal as an additional attachment.
At the end of the procedure, you must thoroughly wipe all parts free of oil - the brake cylinder, pads, drum and metal shield. Before reassembling, it would be a good idea to check the axle bearing for wear and grease. Wear is indicated by difficulty turning, binding, or slight noise. If you discover a malfunction, take the axle shaft to the nearest car service center; you will not be able to replace the bearing without special equipment.
To check the grease inside the bearing, you need to pry the plastic covering the rollers with an awl and remove it. Then add thick Litol-type lubricant inside and put the plastic in place, and then begin assembly.
At the end, it is important to check the oil level in the rear axle gearbox of the Chevrolet Niva. The test is carried out on a fully assembled car, standing on a level area. The filler plug is unscrewed from the gearbox housing, after which the oil level is determined visually or using a thin wooden stick
The filler plug is unscrewed from the gearbox housing, after which the oil level is determined visually or using a thin wooden stick.
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