Lada
“The sorcerer”, or, according to the catalogue, the pressure regulator in the brake drive, it was not for nothing that people received such an apt nickname: no one really knows how it works, but, they say, being faulty, it can present an unpleasant surprise - make the car dance in an emergency. braking. This is where the insidiousness of the “sorcerer” lies: during normal operation, without braking to the floor, its work or inaction is practically not felt, but when its help is especially needed, it may not come. The pistons have soured, the rod or drive lever has broken off, or you installed a new one instead of a faulty regulator, but for the time being you don’t know that the unit is defective or out of adjustment... How dangerous is this?
Let’s check in our experiment how “witchcraft” affects the effectiveness of the brakes at partial and full load of the Chevrolet Niva and Kalina and what the owner should be wary of if he does not monitor the condition of the regulator. We can simulate a malfunction, from excessive activity to complete inaction, with adjustments. Let us remind you that the regulator’s task is to reduce the braking force on the rear axle, reducing the likelihood of skidding when braking to skid. The regulator, mounted on the body and connected by an elastic lever to the axle beam, limits the pressure in the rear brake mechanisms depending on the position of the rear of the body relative to the road, that is, on the vehicle load.
Chevrolet Niva “My all-terrain vehicle” › Logbook › Replacing the sorcerer... and so on little things...
What was replaced on the engine!
Previously, I bought a sorcerer (VAZ 2123 brake pressure regulator with AvtoVAZ21233512008 bracket) for 1,390 rubles, as well as hoses from a truck - while driving I read that they fit a raised field, but the service department said that they did not fit, so I DO NOT ADVISE buying them - DZTA 33023506025
01/16/2019 came to replace the sorcerer and two brake pipes, plus asked to see why oil was leaking from under the cap and from under the crankshaft seal, and also antifreeze was leaking through the hoses. The service website stated “5% discount on all work” - that’s 1,167 rubles . But you won’t get 5%, and one and a half will do, that is, 312 rubles.
This is such an enticement, but oh well, although I still don’t understand why such a scam, plus they changed one low beam lamp without approval, but why? “-We change everything if they are burnt out so that we can issue a working car”... - True, I bought these lamps at home for use, but oh well, do what’s most convenient for you, the customer is always wrong, fortunately, at least not like the title of the movie that came to mind “the customer is always dead.” Oil was still leaking from under the cap, but I didn’t contact it, it was clogged because... It’s not leaking much, the hoses have been tightened - it seems like antifreeze has stopped leaking through them. The whole thing turned out to be a bit expensive in total. The lamp burned out within a few days...a week or two later - a questionable lamp replacement, I don’t know where it was taken from. And the old second one - mine - everything is on fire! Well, in general, I’m not particularly happy, because of what was said above, but everything else is fine, but what about everything else? Well... the engine works (although it worked before), the brakes work (and worked previously, but the sorcerer was all rusty), antifreeze does not leak at the connection of the hoses, nothing of mine is missing, as in another service about which I wrote earlier - I’ll remind you there, we managed to pour 2 liters of oil into the rear gearbox, and even though there is a lock there (www.drive2.ru/l/531187812347674725/) + in this service, almost all the spare parts were put in a box and given to me at my request, and everything was official - with act of completed work.
It was necessary to change the engine plugs - wherever I asked - no one wanted to do it, including this service, they didn’t want to, so antifreeze kept leaking through the plugs... but they changed the light bulb!
Source
"CHEVROLE-NIVA"
By the way, before testing tires on cars without ABS, each time we slightly adjust the regulator taking into account the road condition (snow, ice, asphalt), ensuring that the rear wheels lock a little later than the front ones. Let's not break tradition. Our Shniva found the gap between the cheeks of the regulator to be 16 mm, which was adjusted using a stop screw.
Several brakings, and the braking distance from 80 km/h for a car with a partial load is determined: 34.4 m. With a full load... 33.6! Almost a meter shorter! At the same time, the driver noted a heavier pedal and rapid heating of the brakes, which required cooling before each measurement. Let’s remember these parameters and make adjustments to the “sorcerer” adjustment. First, let's reduce the gap to 8 mm. Now the regulator significantly limits the pressure in the rear brakes, transferring almost all the hard work to the front ones.
Braking has become more difficult, keeping the front wheels from skidding is not so easy - they lock very sharply and the car, naturally, loses control. However, the result, to our surprise, is the same as in the basic version: 34.4 m. At full load, you have to press the pedal much harder, the front brakes begin to overheat. The result is 37.8 m. This is 4.2 m more than with the basic adjustment (33.6 m).
AUTOFIZIK.RU / auto repair
Rear brake pressure regulator
Pressure regulator drive parts
1 – pressure regulator; 2 – axis of the regulator drive lever; 3 – dirt cap; 4 – locking plate; 5 – bolt with spring washer; 6 – rear axle beam; 7 – rod connecting the pressure regulator drive lever to the rear axle bracket; 8 – bolt washer 11; 9 – plastic bushing; 10 – spacer sleeve; 11 – rod fastening bolt; 12 – pressure regulator drive lever; 13 – support sleeve of the drive lever; 14 – support sleeve bracket; 15 – washer; 16 – spring washer; 17 – nut; 18 – support sleeve cage; 19 – bolt securing the holder to the bracket
Rear brake pressure regulator in idle position
A – normal pressure cavity; B – cavity of regulated pressure; P – force transmitted by lever 4 of the regulator drive; 1 – regulator body; 2 – spacer sleeve; 3 – sealing ring; 4 – regulator drive lever; 5 – gasket; 6 – plug; 7 – seal; 8 – spring plate; 9 – piston spring; 10 – piston
Removal and installation
PERFORMANCE ORDER 1. Disconnect lever 12 (see Fig. Parts of the pressure regulator drive) from rod 7, and then clip 18 from bracket 14 and brackets for fastening the pipelines going to the pressure regulator. 2. Disconnect the muffler suspension parts from the body and move the pipeline with the mufflers to the side. 3. After unscrewing the bolts securing the regulator to the bracket and the bracket to the body, remove the regulator bracket, and then, lowering the regulator down, disconnect the pipelines from it. 4. Remove the regulator and disconnect the drive lever from it. Plug the inlets and outlets of the pressure regulator and pipelines. 5. Install the pressure regulator in the reverse order of removal. Before tightening the regulator mounting bolts, install fixture 67.7820.9519 at the end of the regulator drive lever (see Fig. Installing fixture 67.7820.9519 to adjust the position of the rear brake pressure regulator). Direct the rod of the device upward until it stops in the body. This sets the distance (150±5) mm (see Fig. Diagram of installation of the rear brake pressure regulator and its adjustment) between the end of lever 2 and the body side member. 6. Lift the protective cap 3 (see Fig. Parts of the pressure regulator drive) and, turning the regulator on the mounting bolts, ensure that the end of the lever is in light contact with the regulator piston. 7. Holding the regulator in this position, tighten its fastening bolts until full, then coat axle 2 and the protruding part of the piston with a layer of DT-1 or Ditor lubricant. Replace rubber cap 3 with 5–6 g of the same lubricant. 8. Remove the device marked 67.7820.9519 and connect the end of the lever to rod 7, having previously coated the bushings of the articulated connection of the rod with the lever with DT-1 or Ditor grease. 9. Attach the exhaust system pipelines to the body. 10. Bleed the brakes to remove air from the rear brake drive.
Disassembly and assembly
PERFORMANCE ORDER 1. Using wrench A.56124, unscrew the plug, remove gasket 5 (see Fig. Rear brake pressure regulator in non-working position), remove piston 10, spacer sleeve 2, seal 7, plate 8, spring 9 and thrust washer with sealing ring 3. 2. When reassembling, which is carried out in reverse order, lubricate all parts with brake fluid.
Warning To distinguish the pressure regulator of VAZ-2121 and 21213 cars from pressure regulators of other cars that are similar in appearance, there is a groove on the bottom of the piston.
3. Wash the parts with isopropyl alcohol or brake fluid and inspect. The surfaces of the parts should not have marks or roughness. 4. Check the condition and elasticity of the spring, the length of which in the free state should be 17.8 mm, and under a load of 76.44–64.68 N (7.8–6.6 kgf) – 9 mm. 5. Replace damaged parts, as well as the seal and o-ring.
"Chevrolet Niva"
"Chevrolet-Niva"
"Chevrolet-Niva"
The third state - we reduce the influence of the regulator by increasing the gap from the original one by 8 mm, that is, we set it to 24 mm. When there are two people in the car, the braking distance remains virtually unchanged - 34.3 m. However, now the rear wheels are blocked. But at full load the braking is very effective, the deceleration is easy to control and the result is a record: only 30.8 m!
- In the normal position of the regulator, as the vehicle's weight increases, its braking distance decreases - this affects the more complete use of the traction weight by the rear wheels.
- The best braking is at full load, when the regulator minimally limits the pressure in the rear brakes.
- However, at partial load this can lead to skidding. The high center of gravity and short wheelbase of the Shnivy contribute to a significant redistribution of mass during braking, therefore, at partial load, the contribution of the rear axle to braking is small.
"LADA KALINA"
We set the regulator so that the rear is slightly late in locking the wheels. With this setting and partial load, the car needed only 27 m to stop. Fully loaded - 29.5 m. There are slight difficulties in preventing the front wheels from skidding. We reduce the gap in the regulator to zero - the half-empty Kalina stops after 31.8 m. The braking distance increases by 4.8 m, accompanied by a sharp blocking of the front wheels. The loaded one slows down after 35.2 m, the deterioration is even greater - 5.7 m! The pedal effort is increased and the brakes become noticeably hot.
Now we move the adjuster so that the rear brakes work as efficiently as possible. At partial load, the rear wheels suddenly lock and the car drifts off course—you have to release the pedal. On the verge of blocking it is very difficult to brake. The result is 30 m, which is 3 m worse than the “norm”. Full load gave a result of 26.9 m, which is 2.6 m better than the base (29.5 m). There are no comments regarding deceleration control. At the basic position of the regulator, the braking distance increases with increasing load. At partial load the spread of results is 4.8 m, so the base position is most effective. When you deviate from it in any direction, the braking distance increases.
- On a fully loaded vehicle, depending on the position of the regulator, the spread of the braking distance is 8.3 m.
- The best results, as on the Niva, come with increasing pressure in the rear brakes.
- However, on a slippery road, even in smooth turns, early locking of the rear wheels is possible, leading to a skid.
- And at partial load, with the regulator position different from the base one, the braking distance only increases.
Chevrolet Niva “My all-terrain vehicle” › Logbook › Replacing the sorcerer... and so on little things...
What was replaced on the engine!
Previously, I bought a sorcerer (VAZ 2123 brake pressure regulator with AvtoVAZ21233512008 bracket) for 1,390 rubles, as well as hoses from a truck - while driving I read that they fit a raised field, but the service department said that they did not fit, so I DO NOT ADVISE buying them - DZTA 33023506025
01/16/2019 came to replace the sorcerer and two brake pipes, plus asked to see why oil was leaking from under the cap and from under the crankshaft seal, and also antifreeze was leaking through the hoses. The service website stated “5% discount on all work” - that’s 1,167 rubles . But you won’t get 5%, and one and a half will do, that is, 312 rubles.
This is such an enticement, but oh well, although I still don’t understand why such a scam, plus they changed one low beam lamp without approval, but why? “-We change everything if they are burnt out so that we can issue a working car”... - True, I bought these lamps at home for use, but oh well, do what’s most convenient for you, the customer is always wrong, fortunately, at least not like the title of the movie that came to mind “the customer is always dead.” Oil was still leaking from under the cap, but I didn’t contact it, it was clogged because... It’s not leaking much, the hoses have been tightened - it seems like antifreeze has stopped leaking through them. The whole thing turned out to be a bit expensive in total. The lamp burned out within a few days...a week or two later - a questionable lamp replacement, I don’t know where it was taken from. And the old second one - mine - everything is on fire! Well, in general, I’m not particularly happy, because of what was said above, but everything else is fine, but what about everything else? Well... the engine works (although it worked before), the brakes work (and worked previously, but the sorcerer was all rusty), antifreeze does not leak at the connection of the hoses, nothing of mine is missing, as in another service about which I wrote earlier - I’ll remind you there, we managed to pour 2 liters of oil into the rear gearbox, and even though there is a lock there (www.drive2.ru/l/531187812347674725/) + in this service, almost all the spare parts were put in a box and given to me at my request, and everything was official - with act of completed work.
It was necessary to change the engine plugs - wherever I asked - no one wanted to do it, including this service, they didn’t want to, so antifreeze kept leaking through the plugs... but they changed the light bulb!
Source
"Wizard" OR ABS?
And yet, such a regulator on a modern car is a legend of deep antiquity. It cannot compete with ABS, especially if the driver is an average driver who does not know extreme driving techniques. The curb weights of Kalina and Priora are almost the same - the difference is less than a percent. Using the same tires that were on the Kalina, the Priora with ABS showed the best results under any load. Moreover, no dosing of force on the brake pedal was required, you just press with all your heart, and the electronics do the rest.
Test results:
Test results
The optimal adjustment of the “sorcerer” corresponds to the average factory settings, and a few percent can be gained only with individual correction for specific brake pads, tires, vehicle loading and road conditions. But it’s unlikely that anyone will start every trip with a test run.
It would seem that it is possible to reduce the braking distance by increasing the pressure in the rear brakes, but this threatens a loss of stability due to early blocking of the rear wheels. And today only ABS can provide maximum braking efficiency.
On a fully loaded car, depending on the position of the regulator, the spread of the braking distance is 8.3 m. The best results, as on the Niva, are with increasing pressure in the rear brakes. However, on a slippery road, even in smooth turns, early locking of the rear wheels is possible, leading to a skid. And at partial load, with the regulator position different from the base one, the braking distance only increases.
Setting up the brake force regulator: “The Sorcerer” carries the hero
