What are springs suitable for? Making the suspension stiffer

December 23, 2015 Lada.Online 177 549 8

When using the car for a long time, you may notice that the body has sagged a few centimeters. This is a characteristic feature of wear on the suspension springs. Controllability and comfort depend on their rigidity. And if they are selected or installed incorrectly, then this is already a security threat.

Springs on the field, practice

springs for the Niva family Let's divide the problem into two small problems. Let them be called shorty and crocodile

And it doesn’t matter whether it’s Niva Classic, Niva-M or Niva-U. Before turning to the Swedes, a little more history

When in 2008, the classic Niva was replaced by the Niva-M, and in 2020 by the Niva-U, the plant proudly announced that they were aware of the problem of the front springs and that they would install a new type of spring, with a thicker coil and 20 mm longer. The result is written at the beginning of the second paragraph.

Shorty option. The front of the car is very overloaded. And if a winch or air conditioner (Niva Urban) is also hung on the front end, then it becomes completely sad. Therefore, according to our many years of experience, in all cases we install springs from a long-wheelbase Niva, that is, a crocodile. The rear springs for the shorty and crocodile are the same. I can recommend springs 4047001 (short wheelbase) only if you constantly drive alone and without a load, so we actually don’t keep them in stock. For the sake of fairness, I note that my family field rode on these springs for more than 7 years, until the first signs of spring sagging.

Crocodile option. There are two time-tested options. The first option is the standard. In front 4047006, behind 4247002. But there is one Russian, BUT. Few people buy a crocodile to ride alone or without a load. As a rule, this is hunting, fishing, 3-4 men, a bunch of luggage and a box of vodka, or an off-road “truck” (a very common option). In this case, we put rear springs from a Chevrolet Niva on the rear. In terms of geometry, they are exactly the same, but in terms of rigidity they are approximately 20-25 percent greater. A legitimate question, why not reinforced springs for the Niva? The answer is price. For some reason they are more expensive than springs from Shnivy. And please do not forget that if you want to make a suspension that is comfortable for yourself, then you need to consider the issue comprehensively, together with high-quality shock absorbers and silent blocks.

How to determine spring stiffness

The manufacturer applies markings to the suspension springs that correspond to four stiffness groups:

Group numberLoad, kN (kgf)Number of marks
I5,83..5,93 (595..605)One risk
II5,93..6,03 (605..615)Two risks
III6,03..6,13 (615..625)Three risks
IV5,73..5,83 (585..595)Four risks

There is also a color coding for springs:

Car make, VAZSpring colorMarking color
Class A (standard, rigid)Class B (soft)
Front
2101BlackGreenYellow
2101 lane step Metallic blueGreenYellow
2108BlackGreenYellow
2110BlackGreenYellow
2108 per. step Metallic blueGreenYellow
2121BlackNo markingsWhite
1111BlackGreenWhite
2112BlackNo markingsWhite
2123BlackNo markingsWhite
Rear
2101WhiteGreenYellow
2101 lane step Metallic blueGreenYellow
2102WhiteBlueRed
2102 lane step Metallic blueGreenYellow
2108WhiteGreenYellow
2108 per. step Metallic blueGreenYellow
21099WhiteBlueRed
2121WhiteBlackNo markings
2121 per. step Metallic blueGreenYellow
2110WhiteBlackNo markings
2110 per. step Metallic blueGreenYellow
2123WhiteBlackNo markings
2111WhiteBlueOrange
1111WhiteGreenNo markings

It is recommended to install springs of the same class in the front and rear suspension. In some cases, it is allowed to install class A springs forward and class B springs backward, but not vice versa. If you often have to transport heavy loads in the trunk, you can install reinforced springs (more rigid) back.

Important! They need to be selected in pairs based on stiffness for the front and rear suspension. This wish accounts for 95% of all requirements for springs.

Recommendations

Comments 16

I would take the rod and measure it. They are 0.3mm thicker and half a cm longer.

Actually, I measured it one to one!

What did he put on the bronto in return?

The springs are from BMW, and the engine is from BMW, and the gearbox...))

I see, black Bronto 2.0 diesel)))

I came to the conclusion that now (they say it was different before) on the Lynx the M-Con springs remain from the factory...

There are also three types of shniva springs: hard with a brown mark, soft with a blue mark, and soft with a yellow mark, in between the first two)

I heard about this, but in reality you will find figs with different labels))

I was running around with shock absorbers for a friend who is also an Emka. There are their own and only 21214 M.

I don’t know about the front ones, because I haven’t changed them, they still stand the same as the original ones, and the rear ones on the Mka are from the Chevy. It says 2123 on them

about the shock absorbers on the 21214M, this is what an AvtoVAZ representative answered on niva4x4.ru: “Why are there new shock absorbers on the 21214M, and not 2121 or 2123? The reasons are as follows:

1. I wanted to obtain optimal characteristics of the shock absorber at the highest possible temperature range of their operation. Simply put, so that the shock absorber, firstly, overheats less and, secondly, at high temperatures maintains its characteristics for as long as possible. Experiments have shown that it is easier to achieve this on dimensions 2123 than on 2121 (which is why they are not 2121).

2. Initially, it was planned to completely unify the shock absorbers 2123 and 21214, but due to the layout, as well as considerations that the price of the new shock absorbers 21214 and 2123 are not significantly different, it was accepted that the shock absorbers would be original (therefore they are not 2123).

3. The rear shock absorber 21214 differs from 2123 only in length. This was done in order to increase the life of the shock absorber and reduce the likelihood of body damage due to suspension breakdowns. Because The 2123 shock absorber is longer, then if the rear suspension on the 21214M breaks down, it acts as a compression stroke limiter, which can lead to its premature wear and destruction. The front shock absorber differs in characteristics and strokes. When installing the front shock absorber 2123 on the 21214M, the upper shock absorber bracket on the body may be destroyed, because The 2123 shock absorber is longer and during breakdowns and dynamic compression strokes, the entire load will fall on the top point of the shock absorber. In addition, according to the characteristics of the 2123 shock absorber, it will cause the front axle to “float” on uneven roads and soils, and the car will tend to yaw and sway.

I won’t argue, but all these calculations are for a stock car) although it’s not a big one, I have a suspension lift, so 2123 shock absorbers are needed back and forth, since it’s longer)

Thank you! Useful article since I have a Niva M.

Well, I decided to get confused and compare everything, since I didn’t find any information, but it was interesting)

DIY replacement

Replacement of rear and front springs is carried out not only when they sag, but also when chips, cracks, and other defects are detected. At the initial stage of work, the necessary tools and materials are prepared.

Tools and materials

To carry out the replacement work, you will need the following tools and materials:

  1. Set of wrenches.
  2. Jacks and stops.
  3. New set of springs.

Important! It is recommended to replace them as a set or in pairs for the front and rear wheels. You cannot install parts from different manufacturers or different stiffness classes on the machine.

Work progress

Replacement of the front elements should be carried out in this order:

1. Jack up the SUV and remove the wheel. Set the stop. 2. Unscrew the nut securing the lower arm axle using an open-end wrench.

3. Unscrew the shock absorber mounting bolt, having first unscrewed the nut. 4. The stabilizer cushion bracket is dismantled after unscrewing the two fastening nuts. 5. Place the jack under the suspension and lift until the compression limiter moves freely. 6. Unscrew the three nuts securing the ball joint. The bolts securing the support are removed. 7. Slowly unloading the suspension, remove the springs. 8. The spacers are also dismantled, and then new parts are installed in the reverse order of removal.

The process for replacing rear springs is as follows:

1. You need to disconnect the lower shock absorber hinge from the rear axle and move it to the side.

2. Raise the car to unload the spring. 3. Remove the springs with spacers.


4. Install new springs in reverse order.

The entire replacement process takes no more than an hour for one wheel.

When to change?

Let me refer to quotes from the forums: look at how your lower control arm is relative to the ground, measure the distance from the edge of the wheel to the arch, and the like. Of course, there is some truth in all this, BUT these are all consequences. We need to look at the reason, that is, at the spring itself. The next legitimate question is: where to look? The photo shows springs from the same car, one side before replacing the springs, the other after.

For some reason I remembered the magazine “Murzilka” with pictures on the topic, find 10 differences)). Red circles indicate where to look. Why do springs in this condition need to be changed and why is this criminal? Different alloys have different physical characteristics. In particular, spring steels do not withstand shock loads at all. When the coils of the springs close to full contact, an impact occurs. Stress tends to accumulate, and at some point the spring bursts. If this happens at low speed, the face of the car will simply fall down. The fuse will be the shock absorber, which will bend, and if the swing was stronger, then the body will lie on the wheel. It is much worse if this happens at speed or somewhere on the descent from a hill. I saw a short video from the Ladoga Trophy, when a short Niva drives down a hill, bounces a little and turns over. What can be seen in the slow motion replay: when flying up, the suspension dissolves. Then, the face of the car goes down, the spring bursts, the body falls on the wheel... and the car does a somersault through this wheel, since the kinetic energy has not gone away.

Expensive and cheap options

An exact answer to the question: “Which shock absorbers are better to install?”
- does not exist, since each Niva owner has his own driving style and conditions, and the selection of these parts is not always large in Russian stores. The best products are considered to be from KONI, which in Germany have a lifetime warranty for one car under one owner. They need to be tuned frequently (30-40 thousand km). Red part numbers significantly improve ride quality without any loss in handling. The cost of one shock absorber can exceed a hundred dollars. Popular products for Niva

Parts from American are known for being produced in a single-pipe version, very rigid and of high quality. The cost goes up to $140 each. On Niva you can find a budget option around 30-40 dollars. Shock absorbers from BOGE and SACHS cost about $30-50 (manufactured in Germany) and are considered to be of lesser quality. Two-pipe hydraulic samples from Rancho (USA) with a reinforced chrome-plated rod, a special boot and an all-weather corrugated cover are considered approximately equal in quality to SACHS. Considered less comfortable than SACHS.

For lovers of measured driving on asphalt roads, very inexpensive products from SAAZ may be suitable. The plant produces oil-based twin-pipe shock absorbers with the following standard characteristics:

  • length when retracted - 31.5 cm;
  • stroke 18.15 cm;
  • casing diameter - 5 cm;
  • upper end - eyelet, 2.55 cm;
  • lower end - eyelet, 2.55 cm;
  • rebound force 114-146 kg;
  • compression force - from 22 to 36 kg.
  • length when retracted - 22 cm;
  • stroke 8.35 cm;
  • casing diameter - 5 cm;
  • upper end - pin, 1.4 cm;
  • lower end - eyelet, 2.8 cm;
  • rebound force 129-154 kg;
  • compression force - from 17 to 31 kg.

And a few more important points

When upgrading the suspension, it is also important to install stronger springs on the vehicle. You can buy special reinforced rigid products, however, their price may not be very low

Most often, springs from Volga are purchased for Niva. Before installation, one and a half turns of the spring are cut using a grinder. Thus, the car's suspension will be more protected for a long period. Reinforced axle shafts are also a necessary purchase when strengthening the suspension. However, relief-type axle shafts will only fit disc brakes. If your vehicle is equipped with rear drum brakes, then you will have to replace them with disc brakes. Moreover, disc brakes have significant advantages over their predecessors. When strengthening the front and rear drives of a car, choose only domestic parts that are durable, have a long service life, and are characterized by low wear.

Characteristics of suspension springs for VAZ cars

You can find out the price of a part by the catalog number (article), which is indicated in the tables.

Front suspension:

Rear suspension:

1 Before coating. 2 Dimensions and parameters for reference. 3 Including control washers. 4 DP - existing production; PP - production preparation; ZCh - spare parts; OV - extended turn; n.d. - no data.

What are springs

The shape of the spring is a twisted steel rod that resembles an ordinary spiral or torsion bar. The latter definition has French roots, directly reflecting the purpose of the part - literally translated as “twisting” or “twisting”. Typically the cross-section of this rod is round or rectangular. The spring itself can be cone-shaped, barrel-shaped or ordinary cylindrical.

The purpose of a spring in a car suspension is to keep the car in the same comfortable position along with the passenger and cargo, regardless of the characteristics of the road on which the vehicle is moving. This unit replaced the spring suspension and, since about the middle of the last century, remains the most suitable for use.

Together with shock absorbers, springs not only ensure the comfort of people and the safety of fragile cargo inside the car, but also significantly influence the behavior of the car on the road and the safety of movement in general.

Manufacturing Features

The production of this suspension element is one of the most complex processes in the manufacture of parts and assemblies that make up the car. This process is characterized by a large number of complex technological operations, many of which are very difficult to control. Therefore, it is almost impossible to achieve the identity of all the necessary parameters during serial or mass production. In this regard, manufacturing plants are forced to conduct a comparative analysis and color-code springs with identical characteristics.

Replacing the front spring Niva 21213

Factory drawing of the front suspension spring

Differences between suspension springs on Chevrolet Niva, Lynx and Lada 4×4REPLACEMENT

We hang up the front of the car and remove the wheel.

We disconnect the lower shock absorber mount from the spring cup (see here) and the clip of the stabilizer bar cushion (see here).

Unscrew the lower arm axle nut a few turns (see here).

Place the stop under the lower arm and disconnect the ball joint from it (see here).

We reduce the height of the adjustable stop or, with a rigid stop, raise the car.

We lower the lever and remove the lower coil of the spring from behind the protrusion of the cup.

Remove the spring with the upper support cup and the insulating gasket.

Remove the support cup and insulating gasket from the upper coil of the spring.

Remove the plastic insulating gasket from the protrusion of the lower support cup.

To remove the lower spring support cup...

... use a 17-mm head to unscrew the nut of the cup mounting bolt, holding the bolt from turning with a wrench of the same size.

Unscrew and remove three more cup mounting bolts.

Remove the lower spring support cup.

We install the removed parts in reverse order.

We finally tighten the nuts of the lower arm axle and the bolt of the lower shock absorber mounting in the “car on wheels” position.

Video

We'll show you how to replace the front springs in a NIVA car with your own hands. Before work, we spray all the fasteners we need with WD. Springs will be changed without using ties. The original springs on Niva are famous for their unreliability; in a couple of years they can sag significantly or the bump stop breaks. Springs are always replaced in pairs, regardless of the condition of the second.

The quality of the video suffers a little, but everything is explained in detail and shown step by step, so that you can repeat everything on your own in the garage.

The process of installing a new spring:

Video of replacing front springs in Niva:

Another useful video instruction for replacing front springs:

Lift suspension kit Niva 50 mm

Lift suspension kit Niva 50 mm

The kit is intended for the suspension lift of a Niva car up to 2011. by 50 mm, for installing wheels 29″ or 215x80x15, 225x75x15, 235x75x15 (arch cutting will be required), on wheels with a shorter offset and a width of 7″-8″.

Make: Niva, LADA 4×4 until 2011. Body: VAZ-2121, VAZ-21211, VAZ-21212, VAZ-2122, VAZ-21213, VAZ-21214, VAZ-21215-19, VAZ-2131 , and their modifications.

Elements of the Niva 50 mm lift kit are manufactured in the factory, with exact adherence to all landing dimensions.

The kit includes: 1. Spacers for the front spring cups of Niva, LADA 4×4, Chevrolet Niva 50 mm, fasteners - 2 pcs., material steel, polymer coating. 2. Spacers over the rear springs of Niva, LADA 4×4, Chevrolet Niva 70 mm - 2 pcs., material polyurethane. 3. Spacers for upper ball joints Niva, LADA 4×4, Chevrolet Niva 25 mm, fasteners - 2 pcs., material steel, polymer coating. 4. Rear shock absorber brackets for Niva, LADA 4×4, fasteners - 2 pcs., material - steel, polymer coating. 5. Panhard rod mounting extension Niva, LADA 4×4, Chevrolet Niva 50 mm, fasteners - 1 pc., material steel thickness 4 mm, polymer coating. 6. Upper longitudinal bars Niva, LADA 4×4, Chevrolet Niva for a 50 mm lift - 2 pcs., material steel, polymer coating. 7. Extended rod of the brake force regulator drive lever Niva, LADA 4×4, Chevrolet Niva - 1 pc., material steel, polymer coating.

Standard suspension elements do not require replacement.

  • Elevator kit Russia

Purpose

From the factory, Niva Chevrolet comes with springs, both front and rear. The main purpose of these devices is to absorb all the shocks of the suspension that occur when the wheels hit potholes and bumps. They are located in the gap between the wheel and the frame of the car, due to which shocks from the road are smoothed out.

For their manufacture, special high-strength steel is used. The number of turns of the device affects not only the quality of shock absorption, but also the distance of the body from the suspension.

Many Chevrolet Niva owners upgrade the rear springs by installing spacers or reinforced parts.

Rear

Unlike the front end, it is recommended to install reinforced elements on the rear part. This is necessary so that the SUV can be loaded, and at the same time the car still absorbs shock from the road well.

We recommend watching detailed video instructions, this can save you time and effort when carrying out repairs on your own

When using the car for a long time, you may notice that the body has sagged a few centimeters. This is a characteristic feature of wear on the suspension springs. Controllability and comfort depend on their rigidity. And if they are selected or installed incorrectly, then this is already a security threat.

Rules for receiving online orders

Upon receipt of the goods you must:

  1. Check the appearance of the order packaging (integrity)
  2. Open the package and check the presence of all ordered items
  3. Check the appearance of the order (it must not be broken or wrinkled)
  4. Check the completeness of the order (delivery set, accompanying documents)

Attention! If you find any defects or damage, you must, in the presence of employees of the transport company or courier, draw up a report (claim) indicating the corresponding defect.

We ask you to also take a photograph of the detected defect. Photos along with a document signed by the transport company employees or the courier must be sent to our email address within 3 days from the date of receipt of the order.

Please note: if you have not checked your order in the presence of the courier or transport company employee and have not drawn up the appropriate report, claims regarding appearance and configuration will NOT be ACCEPTED!

There are several payment methods in our store:

What springs are suitable for Lada 4×4

When making this choice, you should take into account the dimensions of the Lada 4×4 springs. If they do not correspond to the standard ones (for example, the springs from the Chevrolet Niva are longer), then other suspension elements will have to be changed, for example, shock absorbers, spacers, etc. The result is an elevator. To minimize costs, car enthusiasts simply cut off excess coils from the springs.

What springs can be installed

for Lada 4×4:

  • from Chevy-Niva.
  • from the Volga (GAZ-24. soft, GAZ-21. hard), cut off 1-2 turns.
  • from VAZ 21214m. medium hardness between VAZ 2121 and Chevy Niva.
  • from VAZ 2104 or classics (hard, put back).

So, which springs are best to choose? They should not be too hard (when the wheel loses contact with the road or the car “bounces”) or too soft (when the body rolls heavily when cornering, “nods off” when braking, and the suspension often breaks). You need to be able to choose the right balance that will be suitable specifically for your car and its operating conditions. For example, when installing a heavier engine (diesel), the springs should also be stiffer.

Springs and shock absorbers. VAZ 2107

Post by Vebion » 09 Jul 2008, 23:32

Some of this has clearly fallen into disrepair. But, once the dance started, I decided to change everything there. Those. I want to change the springs and shock absorbers themselves.

I'm not going to underestimate or overestimate. I want to put

what should be there from the factory. Those. The question is the following. What shock absorbers do I need and what springs do I need? Names, sizes or what other characteristics should be there? Which manufacturer is better to take, what is better to do in addition to this?

Maybe it would be better to put

some of this is not from the seven, but, say, from Shnivy. After all, I often began to meet people, albeit in other situations, and they advised me to put this and that away from the shnivy. It seems like the same springs are put back from it. They only cut it to lower it.

Messages: 6 Registered: 09 Feb 2008, 00:00

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Post by Denisishe » July 10, 2008, 03:55

Messages: 905 Registered: May 28, 2007, 00:00 From: Tyumen Experience: 2001 Car: Nissan Terrano II, UAZ 31: Awards: 1

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Post by Kubik » Jul 10, 2008, 09:48

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Post by Vebion » Jul 10, 2008, 10:27 am

Denisishche, can you tell him which ones exactly? If it's not difficult

Kubik, well, I don’t drive on the highway. I only ride along the bypass to bypass traffic jams - but this is not a tarsa ​​and it takes 10 minutes. And so only around the city and the bypass, ordinary days of a city dweller

Messages: 7255 Registered: October 21, 2007, 00:00 From: Tyumen Experience: 2002 Car: Lacetti OKA Niva: Awards: 2

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Post by black013 » Jul 10, 2008, 10:38 am

After that, I didn’t carry anything in the car, as soon as I didn’t load it. There were fishing and dachas and “drilling” a loaded car into the mud up to the very thresholds. ))) I sold the car a year and a half later - the ground clearance did not change, the springs did not sag, the shock absorbers did not leak, the bolts from the rear shock absorbers (which are at the top) did not fall off.

The suspension design of the domestic VAZ 2107 car has springs, the main purpose of which is to ensure a smooth ride. Many owners install longer springs than standard in order to raise the car body. Over time, they sag, which makes it impossible to compensate for the load. Weak springs reduce ride comfort, worsen vehicle handling and lead to rapid wear of suspension elements. To prevent this from happening, they must be checked and changed in a timely manner. Let’s find out in more detail what it is to replace VAZ 2107 springs.

Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Roshchik » Aug 22, 2013, 11:33 am

I installed 2131M Phobos 2120 (Nadezhda) springs in a circle, regular ones. and shock absorbers for Chevrolet Niva Kayaba Excel-G. The strokes of the new shock absorbers are larger than the standard ones, and they are the same in height as the old ones (they were 21214), the front springs 2120 are exactly the same in appearance as the standard ones, and the rear ones are higher by 2 cm, half a turn somewhere. The car lifted up, became stiffer, but moderately, the tires flattened a little (they were overinflated, because the old springs were flat). Now it’s comfortable and high. I didn’t do the alignment for now, I’ll go and let everything rub in. On the way out to the field, I’ll go along the dirt road. I'll see how and what.)

I did not install any spacers, except for 50 mm rubber bands over the rear springs.

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by flatraaa » 23 Aug 2013, 09:35

Roshchik I only have hope in the back, it’s not comfortable, it’s hard like on a stool, but mine is short.

Has anyone tried classic soft springs? How does the car lie down if it’s still on a high spacer? Will the wheels fall out when lifted? Otherwise I really want it to be softer. And a raid on the springs, has anyone tried it? are there soft and tall ones?)

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Roshchik » 23 Aug 2013, 09:49

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Romi » 04 Jan 2014, 14:10

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by wwweger67 » May 26, 2014, 6:53 pm

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Sunny » May 27, 2014, 06:53

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by wwweger67 » May 27, 2014, 07:15

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Sunny » May 27, 2014, 09:09

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by wwweger67 » May 27, 2014, 8:47 pm

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Sunny » May 28, 2014, 06:40

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Denimtornado » May 31, 2014, 3:41 pm

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by T-Rex » 23 Nov 2014, 19:15

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Hf13 » 06 Dec 2014, 23:09

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by Warlock » 07 Dec 2014, 00:27

Re: Springs, shock absorbers, etc.

Post by flatraaa » 07 Dec 2014, 02:57

Shock absorbers for VAZ 2121/2131 Niva and LADA 4×4

The SS20 company offers front and rear reinforced shock absorbers for the classic NIVU 2121, 2131 and their modifications, NIVU 21214M, LADA 4×4 (3 and 5 doors) and Urban versions.

Advantages of using SS20 shock absorbers in cars of the NIVA and LADA 4×4 family

  • the problem of body swaying is eliminated and “bouncing” is significantly reduced when the car bounces on uneven roads, driving becomes more comfortable;
  • “breakdowns” of the suspension are prevented when driving at high speed on a road with large irregularities;
  • there is a choice of characteristics: “Standard”, “Comfort-Optima”, “Highway” or “Sport”;
  • stability of operation in difficult conditions (due to larger fluid volume and improved cooling) without reducing damping characteristics;
  • increased resource;
  • extended operating temperature range from -42 ˚С to +50 ˚С;
  • unlimited mileage warranty;
  • silent operation and stability of shock absorber characteristics throughout the entire service life.

Guarantee

  • Description
  • Buy

The Niva car (VAZ 2121) has been produced since 1977 and during this time has undergone several modifications. Now the name of the car is Lada 4x4, but its essence, as the most affordable of SUVs, has not changed. Over the years of production, the Niva car (VAZ 2121) has proven itself from the best side, and according to plans, it will live on the assembly line for several more years. However, it has a number of disadvantages. For example, insufficient stability of movement at high speed, bouncing and swaying of the body. These shortcomings are partly explained by the short wheelbase, but the main reason is the standard shock absorbers.

Front suspension shock absorbers for VAZ 2121, LADA 4×4

Rear suspension shock absorbers for VAZ 2121, LADA 4×4

The use of reinforced SS20 shock absorbers on the Niva with the “Standard”, “Comfort-Optima”, “Highway” or “Sport” settings will allow you to make your car suitable specifically for your operating conditions, and at the same time improve reliability.

The SS20 company offers front and rear reinforced shock absorbers for the Niva, which, unlike the standard shock absorbers of the VAZ 2121, have increased resistance during the rebound stroke, an increased diameter of the body and rod. The increased oil volume in the SS20 shock absorbers for the Niva allows you to move for a long time on rough roads without overheating the shock absorbers and without reducing their performance.

Standard - shock absorbers with the softest settings, an excellent solution for those who prefer a soft suspension, a smooth ride, and quiet movement. This shock absorber setting is suitable for everyday use, mainly in city conditions.

The “Comfort-Optima” modification has increased rebound valve settings, which solves the problem of body sway and significantly reduces “bumping” when the car bounces on uneven roads. SS20 shock absorbers for Niva and LADA 4x4 with “Comfort-Optima” settings are suitable primarily for urban use.

Shock absorbers “Highway” have an even greater rebound force compared to the “Comfort-Optima” series, and in addition, they have increased compression forces, which prevents suspension breakdowns when driving at speed on large bumps. Such settings are suitable primarily for suburban use on roads and moderate off-road conditions.

The highest rebound and compression forces and, accordingly, energy intensity are found in shock absorbers with “Sport” settings. These shock absorbers are suitable for fans of off-road racing, for the most severe operating conditions.

SS20 shock absorbers for Niva VAZ 2121 and LADA 4×4 have no internal knocks. Also, one of the features of SS20 shock absorbers is their high stability of parameters at low and high temperatures. The body of the SS20 shock absorbers is enlarged compared to standard shock absorbers, which not only allows for an increase in oil volume, but also the use of larger diameter pistons. This significantly reduces the specific loads on the elements of the valve system and increases their service life. The skirted pistons used in SS20 shock absorbers provide excellent sealing and stability of shock absorber performance with extended service life. The lower silent block of the front shock absorber has an original design that surpasses the factory one in reliability and damping capacity.

Increasing the ground clearance (lifting) of the Niva as a way of self-expression

Among the masses of car enthusiasts, several groups stand out clearly for whom a car is not just a means of transportation. For such people, a car is neither a utilitarian nor a status thing. A car is a way of life, the embodiment of personality. A kind of alter ego. One of these groups is jeepers. For them, the thrill is not in covering the greatest distance in the shortest time; it doesn’t matter to them how many seconds it takes the car to reach a hundred, how many kilowatts the music system produces, or whose leather the upholstery is made of. But the most important thing is the ability to ford almost roof-deep water, crawl across a swamp or clayey mess, and not get stuck when hanging diagonally. Most of them were once quite ordinary car owners. But at a certain moment, each of them decided to try their hand at overcoming off-road terrain for the first time. And, if after the first experience there is no persistent aversion to clods of dirt from under the wheels, swamp water under the pedals and sometimes even standing on your ears, then there is a high probability that in a month or two an understanding will come: you need to work with the car. In order to turn a serial SUV into a truly car that is knee-deep in the sea and shoulder-deep in the mountains, you will have to put a lot of effort into it. Winch, cradle guards, reinforced suspension elements and, of course, lifting. It’s the latter that we’ll dwell on in more detail.

Springs on the field, theory

There is a complete mess going on on forums and in people’s heads regarding the selection of springs. I won't dwell on factory springs for a long time, I'll just say one thing. My friend bought himself a Niva Urban Crocodile in 2022. The lower coils of the front springs closed at 20 thousand and the standard wheels began to bite the locker. Now one rhetorical question for fans of factory springs: it is known all over the world that the best quality goes to the assembly line, and everything else goes to the spare parts market. If conveyor springs are of such quality, then what do they offer you with all sorts of different stripes? Among the branded springs, another manufacturer has appeared on the market - Kayaba. All their adult lives, the guys made shock absorbers, and then they took up springs... and failed. They decided not to increase their production, but placed orders from a third-party manufacturer. Quality floats like a violet in an ice hole. At one of the technical seminars held in St. Petersburg, Kayaba representatives avoided questions about springs as best they could and emphasized in every possible way that these are different units and there is no need to equate them.

Now for the “Swedes”. There is complete obscurantism going on on the forums and the drive of numbers and articles. They say there are springs for M-ki, there are already 006 springs for urban and other fabrications. Meanwhile, just look at the official Kilen-Lesjofors catalog for everything to fall into place. The manufacturer offers springs for the field in four articles. 4047001 – front springs for a short wheelbase (three-door), 4047006 – front springs for a long wheelbase, 4247002 – conventional rear springs, 4247010 – reinforced rear springs. All! There are no other options

I do not take into account the Kilen numbers, since the essence and springs will be the same

Springs for shnivy

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And heck, we went to fix it and the lower turns were broken. Maybe there was such a party. www.chevy-niva.ru/viewtopic.php?p=6416731#6416731

There are no complaints about the rear springs.

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If the problem is sagging of the original springs, then inexpensive ones will not do. Options: Raid-T Izh-techno KILEN/LESJOFORS HD

I have the last option on the front, I bought it before the crisis, and in the rear there are spacers from Sobol. Now I looked at the prices. 4500 for the front will be o_O

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Why do you think there will be problems with old springs in shit?

I hope you bought it with a brown mark? If they are blue, then in a year you will have to change them again. brown though after 1.5-2 too

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