It is worth noting that the CV joint (constant velocity joint), better known among car enthusiasts under the common name “grenade,” has a fairly long service life. However, as with any other part or assembly, the resource of this element is limited. It is also important to understand that the condition of the CV joint is also greatly influenced by the individual characteristics of vehicle operation.
At some point, the driver may encounter the fact that when driving, extraneous sounds appear in the area where the grenade is installed. In fact, the CV joint crunches, making a characteristic knock when driving with the wheels turned out, etc. This phenomenon is well known to owners of front-wheel drive VAZ cars, as well as various cars of foreign brands.
In any case, if a grenade crunches on a VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 or another car, the specified element needs to be changed. Next, we will look at how to replace a VAZ 2114 CV joint in a regular garage, as well as what you should pay attention to during this procedure. At the same time, the information below will also allow you to learn how to change the CV joint of a VAZ 2115 or other cars with a similar design.
Replacing the outer CV joint of a VAZ 2114
Hi all. We will replace the outer CV joint of the VAZ 2114. This is not a difficult job; if you have the tools, you can do it yourself.
Tools:
- good wrench and head for thirty
- hammer and screwdriver to hit
- pipe
- wooden block
- universal tongs and pliers
Vendor code:
- 2108-2215012 — external CV joint. I recommend installing a CV joint from GKN-Spidan, Loebro.
Step by step replacement
1. Remove the decorative cover of the hub nut and flare it.
2. We rip off the hub nut, if you can’t rip it off, then put the pipe on the knob for the lever.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Unscrew the 2 ball fastening bolts.
5. Completely unscrew the hub nut.
6. Remove the rubber band securing the brake hose from the groove and pull the hub towards you so that the CV joint comes out of the hub.
7. As a rule, the boot is already torn, so we place the pipe on the inside of the CV joint and knock it out of its seat.
8. Remove the metal ring on the drive shaft. This ring comes with the new CV joint and needs to be replaced.
9. Fill the CV joint with lubricant, it is included in the kit.
10. We put the ring on the drive shaft.
11. We put on the boot, lightly coated with the same lubricant as in the CV joint.
12. We put the CV joint on the splines on the drive shaft and stuff it through a wooden adapter.
13. Move the boot closer to the CV joint and secure one side of the boot with a clamp. Tighten the clamp using pliers.
14. Fix the other side of the boot with a clamp. Tighten the clamp with pliers.
15. Mount the CV joint into the hub. Install the washer and tighten the hub nut. All this comes new complete with CV joint.
16. Fasten the two ball bolts. Use a pry bar to press the lever down and align the ball mounting holes.
Do everything slowly so as not to tear the new boot.
17. Install the rubber band into the groove that secures the brake hose.
18. Install the wheel and remove the car from the jack.
19. Tighten the hub nut.
20. Raise the car and remove the wheel.
21. Roll the nut and install the wheel.
What to choose?
How to replace a CV joint with your own hands and tips for prevention
To replace the inner or outer CV joint on a VAZ 2114, a new element will be required. To be fair, we note that the most suitable and high-quality CV joints for the VAZ 2114 model are produced by the manufacturer, that is, AvtoVAZ.
But here comes the most important disappointment - they are not for sale. The only option is to go to a specialized VAZ official car service center. But from the point of view of financial costs, it is not the most reasonable decision.
In addition, there is now a fairly wide range of analogues on the market.
Judging by the reviews of VAZ 2114 owners, special attention should be paid to CV joints produced by such companies as:
Photo of GKN CV joint for VAZ 2114
Replacing the inner and outer CV joints on a VAZ 2114
Knocks in the chassis are a frequent companion in life for VAZ 2114 owners. Many elements that can cause knocking, bad roads, and low-quality parts can cause extraneous noise in the suspension.
A common source of the problem is the angular velocity distributor, or CV joint (grenade). The process of replacing a part is simple, so you can change it yourself. The question is often asked which CV joint for the VAZ 2114 is better: regular or tripoid. Among the most common arguments: tripoid is more reliable, but it hums and vibrates at high speeds. The regular one is less reliable, but the car handles better at high speed. However, you can find opposing opinions and arguments on this matter.
There is no clear answer which type is better. Operation in harsh conditions showed that there is no fundamental difference in driving sensations and reliability. The main thing is to buy a high-quality grenade made of well-hardened metal, install it correctly and monitor the safety of the anthers.
Scheme for disassembling the VAZ 2114 CV joint
Causes of malfunction
Among the main causes of CV joint failure:
- low quality metal and lubricant;
- insufficient amount of lubricant;
- rupture of the boot, entry of dirt.
The CV joint is a moving element, so it heats up when moving. A lack of lubricant or its lack of the necessary properties leads to wear of the hinges and the appearance of extraneous sounds. Due to the rupture of the boot, dirt gets into the grenade, solid particles harm the moving elements.
Fault diagnosis
The VAZ 2114 has 2 external and 2 internal CV joints. First you need to determine which one is knocking. The optimal test would be on a suspension diagnostic stand. If this is not possible, diagnosis by ear is possible.
Two signs indicate a grenade malfunction in a VAZ 2114:
- the sound resembles a crunch;
- It usually appears when turning.
The simplest and most accurate way to do a garage check is as follows:
- Place the car on a flat surface;
- Turn the wheels to one side (to the middle position or a little further);
- Drive off with medium speed. It is worth remembering that starting too smoothly may not reveal a crunch due to insufficient load on the CV joint, and starting too abruptly may lead to the drive flying out of the wheel.
- Repeat the operation by turning the steering wheel in the other direction. The appearance of a crunch indicates a malfunction of the outer CV joint on the side in which the steering wheel is turned.
Visual detection of ruptured anthers will also be a sign of a CV joint failure. If you discover a damaged protection for any grenade, it must be immediately removed, disassembled and cleaned. If there is enough grease and there is no significant wear on the hinges yet, it is enough to replace the boot and fill it with new grease. If the wear of the balls is obvious, it is better to change the grenade.
CV joint boot VAZ 2114 with a defect
It is more difficult to diagnose a malfunction of the internal grenade on a VAZ 2114. If it malfunctions, it crunches when starting off in a straight direction, and not when turning. But the same symptoms, for example, include play in the steering rack or wear on the engine mounts.
Sometimes the problem can be diagnosed from the pit by tugging on the drive from the gearbox side: strong play or the appearance of extraneous sounds indicate that the internal CV joint should be replaced.
Replacement
It is better to change a grenade yourself with an assistant.
Algorithm:
- remove the wheel, remove the wheel bolts and the hub nut washer;
- unscrew the ball from the steering knuckle;
- pull out the splined end of the outer CV joint;
- pull out the drive with the internal CV joint from the gearbox;
- if you plan to remove both drives, remove the internal grenade from the drive and insert it into the gearbox so that the differential does not move after removing the second drive;
- remove or cut off the anthers, thoroughly clean all hinges with a special liquid or just gasoline;
- when filling the CV joint, use a special lubricant suitable for these purposes; ordinary lithol does not have the required temperature characteristics;
- the retaining rings of each CV joint and the hub nut must be replaced;
- The inner CV joints are inserted into the gearbox until they are completely fixed; when adjusting, you can use a hammer with a wooden spacer.
It is quite possible to diagnose and replace a CV joint with your own hands. This does not require sophisticated car mechanic skills and engineering knowledge, but it allows you to get in touch with the car, see and feel how it works. Whatever the reason for the crunching sound, you need to check the condition of the grenade as quickly as possible. Delaying this will almost certainly mean bringing the part to the point of complete wear, and timely repairs will allow you to get by with “little loss.”
Signs of failure of the outer grenade (CV joint).
There are two options here:
- signs that your grenade has already broken
- signs that the grenade will soon come out and break .
How to understand that a grenade will soon break.
Of course, the first sign of a malfunction of the external grenade is a crackling sound . If you hear a crackling noise while driving with the steering wheel turned, it is definitely a CV joint. The greater the angle of rotation of the wheel and the harder you press on the gas, the louder the clicks. Another sign that does not always appear is vibration on the steering wheel at speeds greater than 80 km/h. The vibration is only slightly similar to the vibration from an unbalanced wheel. It usually manifests itself as a slight twitching of the steering wheel.
How to understand that the outer CV joint has broken.
If the CV joint breaks, the car will stop moving. In any gear engaged, press the gas, the speed increases, but the car does not move.
How to understand that it is the outer CV joint that has broken, and not the internal one or the clutch in general (the first signs of failure are similar to the signs of a clutch failure)? First of all, start the car and put it in any gear. Next, open the hood and look in turn at each of the shafts going from the box to the wheels (one short, the other long). If any shaft is spinning, it means that the CV joint has broken on this side.
I recommend not just visually looking at the shaft, but touching it with some long, hard object, such as a stick. The main thing is that there is nothing on it that can wrap around the shaft !!! When you touch the shaft with a stick, if it is spinning, you will feel a slight vibration. This is usually done in the dark, because it is difficult to understand whether a cylindrical object is spinning, especially in the dark.
Replacing the outer CV joint boot of a VAZ 2114
Yesterday late at night I came from the garage, as in that song “Tired, hungry and angry, but very pleased with myself!” Anthers have been replaced. And it was like this.
So for work we need:
- CV boots - 2 pcs.;
- Anther clamps - 4 pcs;
- Hub nuts - 2 pcs;
- CV joint grease - 1 tube;
- Head for 30 (I took it with touch control using a crowbar) - 1 piece;
- Well, and a bunch of other tools (wrench, tweezers, chisel, hammer, vocabulary of obscenities, etc.)
Work plan
So, let's begin. We remove the cap from the wheel (those who don’t have it have less work), remove the hub nut cap. Unscrew the nut, I used a dowel, take a 30mm socket and loosen the hub nut. Then loosen the wheel bolts.
All this needs to be unscrewed
We jack up the car and remove the wheel, immediately put it under the car (just in case), and unscrew the hub nut.
Unscrewed
We unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle (I unscrewed it with a balloon)
Those that are higher
We press the lever down using a crowbar, hold it in this position with your knee, and at this time we move the steering knuckle and pull the drive out of the hub (after turning the steering wheel to the left). Cutting off the old boot
Drive pulled
Well, then it’s time to remove the CV joint from the shaft. I read that it can be removed by lightly tapping the inside. It wasn't like that. I remembered all my swear words, but it didn’t do any good. It was too late to go to the store for a puller, so I took out a welding tool and invented a puller. With his help, the CV joint was removed within five minutes. But I couldn’t do anything with a hammer in two hours.
Here's a simple helper
After that, we take gasoline and thoroughly wash the CV joint, at least to this condition
It’s clean, and most importantly, it can be easily tossed and turned in all directions.
Well, then we apply grease inside, put the boot on the shaft and put the CV joint in place. To do this, we screw on the old nut and, with a short but sharp blow of a hammer, drive it until the thrust washer. We put the boot on the CV joint and secure it on both sides with clamps. We put the drive in the hub and attach a new nut.
Collected.
Next, install the wheel, lower the car and tighten the hub nut with the same force as it was unscrewed. And don’t forget to seal it
Energized. I used a dull chisel for this.
We repeat the same procedure on the right wheel. That's basically it, the boots have been replaced, the car is running, I now have a puller for CV joints and invaluable experience in removing them.
Drive diagnostics
But a crunch can also appear when other suspension elements - balls, rod ends, bearings - are destroyed. Therefore, before replacing the CV joint on a VAZ-2109 with your own hands, do a complete diagnosis of the suspension and chassis. It is quite possible that it is not only grenades that will need to be repaired. In general, the diagnosis looks like this:
- Place the car on a viewing hole, overpass, or lift. It needs to be secured securely so that it does not roll off.
- Using a mounting spatula, check the drive play - if it is large, you can hear the balls knocking when moving, you will need to change the element.
- At the same time, check the condition of the ball joint - their reliability is not very high, and the roads leave much to be desired.
- Visually inspect the condition of the anthers on all grenades - they determine how long the drives will last.
How to change the CV joint on a VAZ 2114
Replacing CV joints on VAZ 2115, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2113
In front-wheel drive cars, one of the most problematic areas is the constant velocity joints. Abbreviated as CV joint or "grenade". The CV joint is a kind of ball bearing; its races have transverse grooves, which allows you to change the angle between the drive and driven axle shafts. All elements of the CV joint are made of ultra-strong alloys, the wear of which occurs extremely slowly, but, as practice shows, signs of a CV joint malfunction can appear even in a car that has recently left the assembly line of a car plant.
On cars of the VAZ family, it often becomes unusable after
55,000 km .
Causes and symptoms of CV joint failure on a VAZ 2115
The most common reasons:
- low quality CV joints, installation of fakes or defective spare parts;
- lack or poor quality of lubricants;
- damage to the boot and entry of abrasive debris or water into the mechanism;
- aggressive driving style and disgusting condition of the road surface.
One of the signs of replacing a VAZ 2114 CV joint is the appearance of a characteristic “crunch” . This sound can only be produced by balls that roll along grooves, because... have too much output. Working in close contact under constant load inevitably leads to changes in the properties of rubbing parts, their sizes, and the formation of wear.
Where there is no close contact of these elements and extraneous noise appears. The sound can appear at any time, but usually it occurs when turning, sharp acceleration, or overcoming obstacles. There are other signs indicating a hinge failure :
- slight jerks when starting the car or changing dynamics;
- play of the shaft located between the CV joints when trying to move it in different planes.
Which company is the most profitable to buy grenades from?
Since the VAZ-2114, our “four”, is considered more for young people, the companies that stand out most among them are:
- Lorbo
- Hola
- Kraft
Consequences of replacement
Careless handling of machine parts often results in consequences. Contamination of the boot, rapid wear of spare parts and two grenades. If you do not start replacing the boot and CV joints in time, the car can no longer be used for its true purpose. If the owner of the car constantly checks the condition of the anthers and hinges, then the likelihood of dirt getting in will be small.
If you notice rips and holes on the boot, you won’t be able to sew them up; you’ll have to buy new ones. When changing covers, you should also inspect the hinges to make sure they are working. This procedure will not take much of your time, but will preserve the integrity of the grenades and save your money.
After installation is completed, it is recommended to drive the car to check the serviceability of all parts. After making a couple of turns, if you don't hear any squeaking sounds, congratulations, you did it right!
Do not forget to monitor the parts from time to time and sometimes lubricate them, and then they will serve you for a very long time and with high quality.
Necessary tool
If you decide to do the repairs yourself, you will need the following tools to disassemble the car:
- Open-end wrenches for 17, 19. But it is better to have a full set on hand;
- Set of heads and knobs;
- Wheelbrace and jack;
- Pliers;
- Screwdriver;
- Hammer;
- Rag and gloves.
Also make sure you have a complete replacement kit: grenade, boot, CV joint grease and two clamps. For convenience, you can drive onto a pit or overpass, and for safety reasons, set the car to the parking brake and put supports under the wheels.
Why change
If damaged anthers are found, they must be replaced. Otherwise, dirt will penetrate into the “grenade” through cracks and tears and over time the part will fail, and there will be a need to purchase a new element and then replace it.
What do you mean it will fail? When the car moves at any turn, the CV joint will fall apart into two parts. It will be impossible to continue operating such a machine. In addition, all the oil may leak out of the box.
To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to promptly replace the damaged part.
An outer CV joint will cost 1000 - 1500 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. The price of the internal “grenade” is slightly higher than 1400 – 2200 rubles.
Basic faults
The main problem due to which a CV joint can become unusable is the ingress of a large amount of dirt into it. This happens when the anthers are damaged, so their integrity should be checked regularly. To do this, you just need to look under the car, first turning the wheels completely in any direction, and if you find lubricating fluid, ruptures or cracks in the cover, replace the damaged part. By shaking the drive shaft a little by hand, you can check the condition of its play.
Also, the reasons for the failure of the CV joint may be its expired service life, since it is limited, and poor quality of the part (defective).
Less common is damage to the retaining ring, in which the axle shaft comes out slightly from the part during sharp turns. This contributes to the appearance of damage on the “grenade”, and after some time to its complete failure.
Cracking and knocking noises when turning the wheels are harbingers of external joint malfunctions. Signs of damage to the internal grenade are crackling clicks and strong vibration that transfers to the body during acceleration.
