Design of the fuel vapor recovery system Niva 21214 injector

Replacing the canister and canister purge valve

Note. The location of some parts may differ slightly depending on the vehicle modification. This page shows an example of a Euro-3 engine. Replacement on a Euro-2 engine is shown here

Removing the fuel vapor recovery system adsorber

We remove the adsorber for replacement if the seal of its housing is broken (determined by the smell of gasoline or visually).

Remove the pipe and spare wheel support. (see here)

The absorber is located under the brake master cylinder. For clarity, the work is shown with the master brake cylinder and vacuum brake booster removed.

Press the tube tip lock.

Using a slotted screwdriver, loosen the clamp securing the fuel vapor removal hose from the adsorber to the purge valve.

. and remove the hose from the adsorber fitting.

Using the “10” head, loosen the tightening of the adsorber fastening clamp.

. and remove the adsorber from the engine compartment.

An adsorber with a tube for supplying fuel vapor to it.

Install the adsorber in reverse order.

REMOVAL OF THE CANSORBER PURGE SOLENOID VALVE

The absorber purge valve is mounted on the intake manifold bracket.

We are working to replace the valve.

By pressing the lock of the engine control system wiring harness block, disconnect the block from the canister purge valve.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the clamp securing the fuel vapor supply hose from the adsorber to the purge valve.

. and remove the hose from the valve fitting.

Using a slotted screwdriver, loosen the clamp securing the fuel vapor supply hose from the valve to the receiver.

. and remove the hose from the other valve fitting.

Insert a slotted screwdriver into the groove of the valve and press the tongue of the bracket.

. move the valve from the bracket.

For clarity, the two bottom photos show the removal of the valve on a dismantled bracket.

Using a slotted screwdriver, press out the tongue of the bracket.

We install the solenoid valve for purge the adsorber in the reverse order.

Video

Source

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Canister purge valve 21103-1164200-02

Designed for purging the adsorber of the gasoline vapor recovery system of a car equipped with an electronic engine control system, designed for EURO-3 (21103) and EURO-2 (2112) toxicity standards, and meets the increased requirements of European environmental standards.

The air flow rate is controlled by pulse width modulation of the input voltage to the valves, which adjusts the ratio of voltage levels between the on and off states of the valves.

The valves are installed as part of the adsorber on vehicles operating in temperate and tropical climates at ambient temperatures from −40°C to +45°C. They are used on all types of VAZ vehicles that have a neutralizer and a vapor recovery system.

Specifications

• Valve supply voltage (DC): 8…14 V
• Pulse operating mode with switching frequency: 32 Hz
• Operating temperature range −40°С…+130°С
• Nominal discharge capacity: 45±5 l/min
• Valve weight: no more than 0.11 kg

Information used: JSC "Utes"

Adsorber and adsorber purge valve (KPA); errors 0441, 0443, 1410, 1425, 1426

Name: Anton Reg.: 04/11/2008 Messages: 844 From: Moscow was, now Ryazan region. Pitelino Age: 49 Car: Niva 21214 2007

Reg.: 07/16/2013 Messages: 53 From: Russia Tyumen Age: 44 Car: Niva engineer, 21214 2003

Reg.: 01/08/2005 Topics / Messages: 3 / 1363 From: Krasnodar Age: 43 Car: VAZ-2131 Louse ME17.9.7, 2022; VAZ-21214 2008, LICE 7.9.7.Prestige 12V214. T-MAX

Nope. Not this way. The adsorber bucket always has a connection with the atmosphere. This spout is covered with a lid and few people know about it. Its diagram is like this.

Sorry, the picture is from an enemy forum. Whether the valve works or not, the pressure from the tank will be released into the atmosphere through the coal. The stench is adsorbed by the coal, and the air escapes into the spout under the cap. It’s just that if the valve is not working, the adsorber will not be purged, the coal will be filled with gasoline vapors and will soon begin to stink.

The plug that prevents pressure from being released from the tank is located between the tank and the adsorber. Some valve was installed upside down or it was stuck. It's lucky that it didn't stick in the other direction. Then, when gasoline was produced, the tank would not fill with air and it would flatten something like this

UPD> By the way, I just thought about it. Didn't you dip your car in kaki on your eyebrows? I have seen several cases when a clay solution with frogs and moss was poured into an adsorber, where it dried out and the connection between the tank and the atmosphere was naturally lost.

Reg.: 07/16/2013 Messages: 53 From: Russia Tyumen Age: 44 Car: Niva engineer, 21214 2003

I’ll ask some more questions, soon I’ll get to civilization and start troubleshooting..

I found it on the Internet, I have an extremely similar situation. https://www.drive2.ru/l/8023108/

Reg.: 01/08/2005 Topics / Messages: 3 / 1363 From: Krasnodar Age: 43 Car: VAZ-2131 Louse ME17.9.7, 2022; VAZ-21214 2008, LICE 7.9.7.Prestige 12V214. T-MAX

Almost so. Only if the CPA is closed will the excess pressure go into the atmosphere. This excess doesn’t care whether you have a CPA or not. But if your adsorber or middle pipe is clogged, then the vapors have nowhere to go. That's why I asked about drowning.

The problem with XX is generally more often related to the firmware, the condition of the spark plugs/coils and the presence of air leaks after the mass air flow sensor. The CPA will be the last to influence there.

Knock in the transfer case of the new Chevrolet Niva. Direct from the factory

There are also several factors here: This behavior of the box can be caused by the appearance of an imbalance in the cardan shafts. Their condition is checked and, if necessary, repairs are carried out; Vibration can also occur when the rear driveshaft seizes. Sometimes jamming is caused by deformation of the part, then the cardan will have to be dismantled; Increasing imbalance of the center differential.

The only way to repair is to replace the assembled part; Damage to the bending of the screws securing the elastic coupling. Determining this problem is quite difficult. You'll have to unscrew the screws and look at their condition. If necessary, install new fasteners.

Other breakdowns In addition to vibration with the transfer case, other problems may appear. The most common problem is with differential locking. The reason is damage to the teeth of the small ring of high and low gears. Inspect the parts, in some cases it is enough to simply clean the crown; in case of severe damage, you will have to replace it. The lack of differential locking occurs due to severe deformation of the splines and other drive parts. The most reliable way to eliminate it is to replace damaged structural elements.

The problem may also lie in the stretching of the clamp springs. Another common problem is oil leakage. Most often this happens due to damage to the sealing gaskets.

Sometimes after winter they can crack and do not provide a sufficient level of tightness. Leaks can also occur through seals. If leaks occur, replace damaged consumables. Domestic SUVs perform quite well on roads with different surfaces. But quite a lot of problems can arise with them. For example, a knock in the transfer case of the new Chevrolet Niva.

This problem is not uncommon. Therefore, every owner of such a car should know the causes of this problem. Let's look at popular reasons When communicating with car owners, you can often hear the question of why the speed on the Chevrolet Niva does not drop. Operating the engine in this mode is undesirable for any car model; high speeds not only have an unpleasant effect on the hearing, but also lead to increased fuel consumption.

Such a problem can arise suddenly, everything seemed to be working perfectly, and then suddenly a high idle appeared. Many drivers, both experienced and beginners, are very puzzled by this problem. Why the speed on the Chevrolet Niva does not reset will be discussed in this article. Let's analyze all known variants of such a problem and ways to solve it. Many car owners, after such a malfunction occurs, seek help from specialists, but in most cases the malfunction can be fixed with your own hands.

We will tell you what needs to be done for this in this article for everyone interested in this issue. Why do you need a properly set idle speed? When it comes to a car, the concept of idling can be attributed to the operation of the engine when the gear is off or when the clutch pedal is depressed. In such cases, the engine runs without load, that is, there is no transmission of torque from the power plant to the drive wheels.

For different engines, idle speed can range from to rpm. If their indicator is less than the recommended value, the engine will stop when the clutch pedal is pressed.

An increase in their number, in addition to a significant increase in gasoline consumption, leads to accelerated wear of engine parts. Therefore, it is so important to maintain their number in the recommended range. Idle speed adjustment is carried out by several components and assemblies installed on the vehicle. These include an injector, a fuel pump, and various sensors, which can be mechanical or electronic.

How to check the adsorber

Many car owners may be interested in the question of how to check the adsorber and its purge valve when the diagnostics showed it to be faulty (an absorber error popped up). It is quite possible to make such a diagnosis in a garage, however, for this it will be necessary to dismantle either the entire adsorber or just its valve. And to carry out such a test, you will need metalworking tools, a multifunctional multimeter (to measure the insulation value and the “continuity” of the wires), a pump, and a 12 V power source (or a similar battery).

Replacement Instructions

Replacing the purge valve

If the valve knocks loudly, it needs to be adjusted. For this purpose, it has an adjusting screw. Its head is filled with epoxy. The polymer prevents the screw from unscrewing spontaneously. A malfunction in the electromagnet power circuit can be eliminated by cleaning the connector contacts.

The work is performed with one screwdriver in the following order:

• Loosen the clamps on the valve fittings.
• Remove the purge and vacuum hose.
• Press the plastic latch with a screwdriver and remove the purge valve.

• Insert new part.
• Put on the hoses.
• Tighten the clamps.

Replacing the adsorber

In addition to a screwdriver, you will need a 10mm wrench. The work order is as follows:

• Loosen the clamps.
• Remove the hoses.
• Unscrew the mounting clamp bolt.
• Remove the adsorber and insert a new one.
• Tighten the clamp bolt.
• Put on the hoses.
• Tighten the clamps.

Removing the adsorber from the fuel system is unacceptable. This part compensates for pressure differences that occur during cooling and heating of the gas tank. In addition, the operation of the purge valve is controlled by the engine ECU. Therefore, you cannot simply plug the hose outlet - the on-board computer will generate an error. If you leave the tube unplugged, dust and dirt will be drawn into the gas tank.

What is an adsorber for?

Before moving on to the question of how to check the operation of the adsorber, let us briefly describe the operation of the gasoline vapor recovery system (in English called Evaporative Emission Control - EVAP). This will give a clearer picture of the functions of both the adsorber and its valve. So, as the name implies, the EVAP system is designed to capture gasoline vapors and prevent them from entering the surrounding air unburned. Vapors are formed in the fuel tank when gasoline is heated (most often during long-term parking under the scorching sun in the warm season) or when atmospheric pressure decreases (very rarely). The task of the fuel vapor recovery system is to return these same vapors to the engine intake manifold and burn them along with the air-fuel mixture. As a rule, such a system is installed on all modern gasoline engines in accordance with the Euro-3 environmental standard (adopted by the European Union in 1999).

The EVAP system consists of the following elements:

There are also additional wiring harnesses leading from the electronic engine control unit (ECU) to the said valve. With their help, this device is controlled. As for the adsorber, it has three external connections:

The adsorber is a kind of barrel (or similar vessel) that is filled with ground coal, in which gasoline vapors actually condense, after which they are sent to the car's power system as a result of purging. Long and proper operation of the adsorber is possible only with its regular and sufficient ventilation. Accordingly, checking the car adsorber is to check its integrity (since the body may rust) and the ability to condense gasoline vapors. Even older adsorbers pass the carbon contained in them through their system, which clogs both the system and their purge valve.

Checking the adsorber valve with a multimeter

The solenoid valve for purge the adsorber directly purges the system from gasoline vapors present in it. This is done by opening it upon command from the ECU, that is, the valve is an actuator. It is located in the pipeline between the adsorber and the intake manifold.

As for checking the adsorber valve, firstly, it is checked that it is not clogged with coal dust or other debris that can get into the fuel system when it is depressurized from the outside, as well as with coal from the adsorber. And secondly, its functionality is checked, that is, the ability to open and close on a command coming from the electronic engine control unit. Moreover, not only the presence of the commands themselves is checked, but also their meaning, which is expressed in the time during which the valve must be open or closed.

Interestingly, in engines equipped with a turbocharger, a vacuum is not created in the intake manifold. Therefore, for the system to operate, it is provided with another two-way valve that operates and directs fuel vapor into the intake manifold (if there is no boost pressure) or to the compressor inlet (if there is boost pressure).

Please note that the canister solenoid valve is controlled by an electronic unit based on a large amount of information from temperature sensors, mass air flow, crankshaft position and others. In fact, the algorithms by which the corresponding programs are built are quite complex. It is important to know that the greater the engine air consumption, the longer the duration of the control pulses from the ECU to the valve and the stronger the canister purge.

That is, what is important is not the voltage supplied to the valve (it is standard and equal to the total voltage in the automotive electrical network), but its duration. There is such a thing as “adsorber purge duty cycle”. It is scalar and is measured from 0% to 100%. A zero threshold indicates that there is no purging at all, respectively, 100% means that the adsorber is purged as much as possible at a given time. However, in reality this value is always somewhere in the middle and depends on the operating conditions of the machine.

Also, the concept of duty cycle is interesting because it can be measured using special diagnostic programs on a computer. An example of such software is the Chevrolet Explorer or OpenDiag Mobile programs. The latter is perfect for checking the adsorber of domestic cars VAZ Priora, Kalina and other similar models. Please note that an additional scanner, such as an ELM 327, is required to use the mobile application.

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In warehouses: 17 pcs.

Characteristics

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Shipping territory

Other partner warehouses and stores

+7 (ext. 7576 or 7585) [email protected] Shipments only for legal entities by pre-order

Mon-Fri: from 9:00 to 18:00, Sat, Sun: closed

+7 [email protected] Mon-Fri: from 9:00 to 20:00, Sat: from 9:00 to 18:00, Sun: from 9:00 to 16:00

+7 [email protected] OPT: Mon-Fri: from 9:00 to 18:00, Sat-Sun: closed. Retail: Mon-Fri: from 8:30 to 17:30, Sat: from 10:00 to 16:00, Sun: closed

+7 [email protected] Mon: from 8:30 to 18:00, Tue-Thu: from 9:00 to 18:00, Fri: from 9:00 to 17:30, Sat-Sun: closed

Canister purge valve 2112-1164200-02

Designed for purging the adsorber of the gasoline vapor recovery system of a car equipped with an electronic engine control system, designed for EURO-3 (21103) and EURO-2 (2112) toxicity standards, and meets the increased requirements of European environmental standards.

The air flow rate is controlled by pulse width modulation of the input voltage to the valves, which adjusts the ratio of voltage levels between the on and off states of the valves.

The valves are installed as part of the adsorber on vehicles operating in temperate and tropical climates at ambient temperatures from −40°C to +45°C. They are used on all types of VAZ vehicles that have a neutralizer and a vapor recovery system.

Specifications

• Valve supply voltage (DC): 8…14 V
• Pulse operating mode with switching frequency: 32 Hz
• Operating temperature range −40°С…+130°С
• Nominal discharge capacity: 54±4 l/min
• Valve weight: no more than 0.11 kg

Information used: JSC "Utes"

How to check the adsorber

Now let’s move directly to the algorithm for checking the adsorber (its other name is the fuel vapor accumulator). The main task in this case is to determine how sealed its body is and whether it allows fuel vapors to escape into the atmosphere. So, the check must be performed according to the following algorithm:

It is also necessary to perform a visual inspection of the adsorber. This is especially true for its body, in particular, for rust spots on it. If they occur, then it is advisable to dismantle the adsorber, get rid of the mentioned spots and paint the body. It is imperative to check whether coal from the fuel evaporation accumulator is leaking into the EVAP system pipelines. This can be done by inspecting the condition of the adsorber valve. If it contains the mentioned carbon, then you need to change the foam separator in the adsorber. However, as practice shows, it is still better to replace the adsorber completely than to engage in amateur repairs that do not lead to success in the long term.

Cut out the excess. Adsorber. — Chevrolet Niva, 1.7 l., 2007 on DRIVE2

Good evening everyone!

Today I removed the adsorber. Why do this: -Increasing the free space under the hood -Easier access to the starter nuts -Losing a kilogram

For me personally, the last point is most important; I want to relieve the front axle as much as possible. Well, that's not the point. About the adsorber. Work for half an hour with smoke breaks.

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As soon as I bought Shniva, half of my acquaintances looked under the hood, pointed their finger at this black tank and urged me to remove this extra part. I didn’t get into it then, but now, apparently, I’ve grown up.

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We take out the adsorber valve from the tank and remove the connector. We pull off the hose going from the gas tank to the valve.

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Hose from adsorber to throttle body (bottom)

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... pull it off and replace it with a plug made from a pinched silicone tube. We fix it with a spring clamp.

Option #1 (out of 2)

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Option #1. The valve is completely removable. A gas filter is placed on the tube from the gas tank, and the connector is closed with a cambric.

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With a tank. Everything is neat, nothing sticks out, nothing gets in the way.

Everything is fine, but the check light is on.
It hasn’t caught fire for me in 2 years, so it’s putting pressure on my brain. I’m not going to reflash it yet, so Option No. 2:

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We connect the hose from the gas tank to the adsorber valve, put the connector in place, fix the valve with ties to the tank bracket

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The goal has been achieved. The place has been freed up, made easier, let's see how it is to drive without an adsorber. If you don't like it, I'll put it back

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At the same time, I checked the valve clearance. I've already driven more than 1000 km since switching to bolts, it's time. On 5 valves the gap was greater than nominal

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The bolts are doing great. The engine below pulls much more pleasantly, does not rattle, and the knock sensor error does not bother me

Well, that’s the most important thing for me. Changed the cabin filter. I carried it, poor thing, in the trunk for six months, and finally replaced it today.

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Shake! No. 1

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Shake! No. 2

That is how we live. Tomorrow I’ll drive the car into the garage and start preparing it for the summer Altai.

Health and smooth roads to everyone!

How to check the adsorber valve

If after checking it turns out that the adsorber is in more or less working condition, then it makes sense to check its purge solenoid valve. It’s worth mentioning right away that for some machines, due to their design, some actions will differ, some of them will be present or absent, but in general the verification logic will always remain the same. So, to check the adsorber valve, you must perform the following steps:

You can also check the adsorber valve using a multifunctional multimeter, switched to ohmmeter mode - a device for measuring the insulation resistance value of the electromagnetic winding of the valve. The probes of the device must be placed at the coil terminals (the places where the wires coming from the electronic control unit are connected to it; there are various design solutions), and the insulation resistance between them must be checked. For a normal, serviceable valve, this value should be within approximately 10...30 Ohms or differ slightly from this range. If the resistance value is small, it means that there is a breakdown of the electromagnetic coil (short interturn circuit). If the resistance value is very large (calculated in kilo- and even mega-ohms), then the electromagnetic coil breaks. In both cases, the coil, and therefore the valve, will be unsuitable for use. If it is sealed into the housing, then the only way out of the situation will be to completely replace the valve with a new one.

Thus, in order to know how to check whether the adsorber valve is working properly, you need to dismantle it and check it in a garage. The main thing is to know where its electrical contacts are located, and also to perform a mechanical inspection of the device.

adsorber - cannot be removed and left - Chevrolet Niva, 1.7 l., 2005 on DRIVE2

When it comes to the presence of an adsorber in the engine compartment of his car, each shnivodist will independently put a comma in the phrase: “you cannot remove it, leave it.”

I made my choice: “delete, cannot be left” and here’s why.

The engine compartment is famous for its tightness, which is quite wrong for an SUV. Crowding contributes to engine overheating, cramped conditions complicate simple repairs, cramped spaces increase the risk of fire, etc.

The adsorber in the pulley is famous for its size and the frequent breakage of the inlet and outlet tubes, as well as the frequent failure of the valve.

How to painlessly remove the adsorber from the engine compartment.

First, we disconnect the tubes and valve from it. We plug the pipe to the receiver with an M8 bolt and tighten it with a clamp.

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We remove the adsorber and its mounting and put it on a shelf in the garage.

We either leave the valve, or replace it with a resistance of 30-40 Ohms, or programmatically in the firmware we turn off the adsorber in any way (increase in temperature triggering, disabling errors).

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We insert a classic gasoline filter into the tube from the tank.

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Result:

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The next step will be to install a pneumatic compressor using the free space.

UPDATE:

I drove for a month without an adsorber and noticed that in the heat (and it was up to +27) in traffic jams it starts to smell like gasoline; I pulled the hose from the filter away from the air intake - it still smells in traffic jams, or when stopping

I ended up putting the adsorber back in place, I’ll keep an eye on it

the one that “can’t be deleted for now, leave it”))))

How to repair the adsorber and valve

It’s worth noting right away that in most cases both the adsorber and the valve cannot be repaired; accordingly, they need to be replaced with similar new units. However, as for the adsorber, in some cases, over time, the foam in its body rots, which is why the carbon contained in it clogs the pipelines and the solenoid valve of the EVAP system. Rotting of foam rubber occurs for banal reasons - from old age, constant temperature changes, exposure to moisture. You can try to replace the foam separator of the adsorber. However, this cannot be done with all units; some of them are non-separable.

If the adsorber body is rusted or rotten (usually also due to old age, temperature changes, constant exposure to moisture), then you can try to restore it, but it is better not to tempt fate and replace it with a new one.

Checking the valve using a homemade tester

Similar reasoning is valid for the solenoid valve of the gasoline vapor recovery system. Most of these units are non-separable. That is, the electromagnetic coil is sealed into its body, and if it fails (insulation breakdown or winding break), it will not be possible to replace it with a new one. Same with the return spring. If it has weakened over time, you can try to replace it with a new one, but this is not always possible. But despite this, it is still better to perform a detailed diagnosis of the adsorber and its valve in order to avoid expensive purchases and repairs.

Some car owners do not want to pay attention to the repair and restoration of the gasoline vapor recovery system, and simply “turn off” it. However, this approach is not rational. Firstly, this really affects the environment, and this is especially noticeable in large cities, which are not known for their clean environment anyway. Secondly, if the EVAP system does not work correctly or does not function at all, then under pressure gasoline vapors will periodically escape from under the gas tank cap. And this will happen as often as the temperature in the gas tank increases. This situation is dangerous for several reasons.

Firstly, the tightness of the tank cap is broken, the seal of which is broken over time, and the car owner will probably have to periodically buy a new cap. Secondly, gasoline vapors not only have an unpleasant odor, but are also harmful to the human body. And this is dangerous provided that the car is parked in an enclosed area with poor ventilation. And thirdly, fuel vapors are simply explosive, and if they come out of the gas tank while there is a source of open fire next to the car, a fire hazard will arise with very dire consequences. Therefore, there is no need to “turn off” the fuel vapor recovery system; instead, it is better to keep it in working order and monitor the adsorber and its valve.

Conclusion

Checking the adsorber, as well as its electromagnetic purge valve, is not very difficult even for novice car owners. The main thing is to know where these components are located in a particular car, as well as how they are connected. As practice shows, if one or the other unit fails, they cannot be repaired, so they need to be replaced with new ones. As for the opinion that the fuel vapor recovery system needs to be turned off, it can be attributed to misconceptions. The EVAP system must work normally and ensure not only environmental friendliness, but also safe operation of the vehicle in various conditions.

Source

Symptoms of a problem

The service life of the adsorber and valve, like any car part, is limited. Over time, the filter becomes clogged, compacted and prevents the free escape of vapors from the gas tank. The valve mechanism jams, the electromagnetic coil burns out or contact is lost in the connector area. This can be determined by indirect signs:

• High pressure in the fuel tank, expressed by hissing when the cap is unscrewed.
• The valve knock is too loud when you press the gas.
• Floating idle speed. There are many possible causes for this problem, but one of them is a faulty adsorber.
• Burning Check Engine light on the dashboard and diagnostic error codes.
• There is no click when the adsorber valve is turned on.
• The smell of gasoline in the cabin.

The valve can be cleaned or adjusted. Repair of the adsorber is not provided. The only way out is to replace it with a new one.

Is it worth turning off the adsorber, pros and cons, possible consequences

Before turning off the adsorber in a car, it is important to understand how much this will affect the performance of the vehicle, including environmental ones, as well as driving safety.

In the article we will analyze the purpose and operating principle of the adsorber, where it is established, when it needs to be changed and whether it is possible to turn it off and drive without the device, how to properly remove it on a VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114, Lada Priora, Grant, Largus, Gazelle and whether it is necessary to flash the ECU after shutdown devices.

Purpose and principle of operation

Adsorber - is a container filled with activated carbon, which acts as a filter element. This element is the main part of EVAP - Evaporative Emission Control (gasoline vapor recovery system).

The system has been integrated into the fuel system of cars with Euro-2 standards and higher. Those. you won’t see an adsorber on a VAZ classic or even a 2108 model, not to mention Moskvich, Volga 3110, etc.

The goal is to reduce harmful emissions into the atmosphere and eliminate gasoline odors in the car interior.

But despite the simplicity of the design, in addition to the housing and the filter element, the adsorber consists of:

Fuel vapors accumulating in the gas tank must go somewhere. In old cars they escaped into the atmosphere through a special tube. In modern vehicles, fuel tanks are isolated from the external environment.

Gasoline vapor, through a separate outlet pipe, enters the adsorber and condenses there in the form of fuel, which is returned back to the tank or to the intake manifold. In the first case, the process occurs with the engine turned off, in the second - with the engine running.

As soon as the car starts, the ECU sends a signal to the solenoid valve. The latter opens and the activated carbon (sorbent) is purged. Fuel vapors are “extracted” from the sorbent and immediately enter a special receiver and then into the combustion chamber.

To find out more about what an adsorber is, follow the link.

Carburetor engine fuel system

(Fuel injection system)

Diagram of a power system with two fuel tanks (Niva with a long wheelbase)

The fuel supply is located in a tank located under the rear seat and covered with a metal casing. The tank is stamped from leaded steel sheet, its upper and lower halves are welded together. The filler neck is connected to the tank by two hoses; The lower (thick) hose is used to fill fuel, the upper (thin) hose is used to remove displaced air during refueling.

The hoses are fixed with clamps. The tank plug is sealed. On each side in the upper part of the tank, fittings extend from it, onto which thin plastic tubes for ventilation of the tank are placed. They are connected to a separator, which, in turn, communicates with the atmosphere through a tube exiting near the filler neck. On vehicles with a toxicity reduction system, the separator is connected by hoses and pipelines to the adsorber in the engine compartment. The design and operation of this system are described in the section Fuel system (injection).

A fuel receiver with a fuel level sensor is attached to the top of the fuel tank on six studs through a rubber gasket. Fuel is drawn from the tank under the influence of vacuum created by the fuel pump. To pre-clean the fuel, use a mesh filter at the end of the fuel receiving tube of the tank.

From the tank, fuel flows through a rubber hose into a pipeline leading into the engine compartment, and then through a rubber hose to the fine filter. Filter – with a paper filter element, non-separable design. There is an arrow on its body, which must coincide with the direction of fuel movement (forward). After the filter, the fuel enters the fuel pump and then into the carburetor (these units are also connected to each other by rubber hoses). Excess fuel from the carburetor (the pump is designed to supply excess fuel) is drained through hoses, a fuel line and the drain pipe of the fuel receiver with a fuel level sensor back into the tank. Fuel circulation prevents the formation of vapor locks in the power system. A check valve is installed in the section of the drain hose in the engine compartment, allowing fuel to flow in only one direction. All hoses of the power system are fixed to the fittings and tubes with clamps. The fuel pump is a diaphragm type, mechanically driven from the eccentric pusher of the oil pump drive shaft and the ignition distributor, with a manual pumping lever. The pump consists of a lower housing with drive levers, an upper housing with valves and fittings, a diaphragm assembly and a cover. The diaphragm assembly is installed between the upper and lower housings. Two diaphragms are installed on top (working ones), and one (safety) on the bottom: it prevents gasoline from entering the engine crankcase if the working diaphragms rupture. In this case, leaked gasoline is discharged through holes in the external spacer located between the safety and working diaphragms. The diaphragms, together with the internal spacer and plates (from the outside), are assembled on the rod and secured with a nut. The rod is inserted into the balancer window with a T-shaped shank. A spring is installed between the diaphragm assembly and the lower housing. The upper housing is closed with a lid secured with a bolt. Underneath there is a mesh fuel filter. The pump is attached to the engine on two studs through a heat-insulating spacer, sealed on both sides with cardboard gaskets. Gaskets are available in thicknesses of 0.30±0.03, 0.75±0.05 and 1.20±0.10 mm. When installing the pump, install a 0.30 mm gasket between the heat-insulating spacer and the engine, and install a 0.75 mm gasket on the outer side of the spacer (facing the fuel pump) and check the minimum protrusion of the pusher from the spacer, which should be 0.8–1.3 mm . To do this, slowly turn the engine crankshaft, pressing the pusher with your finger and periodically checking its protrusion above the plane of the gasket. If the minimum protrusion is less than specified, the outer gasket is replaced with a thinner one, if more, with a thicker one. The air filter is dry, with a replaceable paper filter element. The filter housing is connected to the carburetor flange through a rubber gasket. It fits over the four studs of the carburetor and is pressed with self-locking nuts through a steel plate. To limit the tightening of the nuts, steel spacers are placed on the studs.

Where is it installed?

As a rule, the adsorber is installed under the hood on the right in the direction of travel of the car, for example, in the VAZ 2110 it is in the form of a barrel.

In other cars, it can be square and installed to the left of the engine (in the direction of travel), under the air duct (Lada Granta), the vacuum brake booster (some Nissan models) or in the radiator area. For VAZ 2114 it is located near the battery and air filter.

On the Volkswagen Passat B3, the adsorber is located under the air filter on the right side in the direction of travel.

Other vehicles - see your model's owner's manual.

Why do they refuse the adsorber?

Despite the advantages of this design solution, and these are: fuel economy, absence of odor in the cabin, reduction of harmful emissions into the atmosphere (although many do not care about this), the adsorber has a number of significant drawbacks, due to which many seek to disable it or completely remove it.

Disadvantages, they are also signs of malfunction:

Therefore, when a product fails, many people turn it off and remove it, or take a more complicated path - they open the case and replace the old activated carbon with a new one.

Absorber in Niva Chevrolet

Adsorber VAZ 2107 (malfunctions, disassembly, removal)

The problem appears due to play in the transfer case, as well as near it. After adding antifreeze, bleed the system to remove air pockets. Determining this problem is quite difficult.

Chevrolet Niva the older the better › Logbook › Adsorber. Can't you change it and remove it? And what's inside! Rom29 was...

Sometimes the connection can wear out and rattle.

If necessary, install new fasteners.

The problem is the elasticity of the transfer case clutch. This is due to the low-quality rubber from which it is made. Due to temperature changes, the coupling cracks and loses its properties.

This problem is treated by installing a new part. Vibrations during start-up and acceleration are also frequent companions of the Chevrolet Niva. They are usually observed in the area of ​​the front seats. There may be several reasons for this problem: The rear engine mount is loose. In this case, vibration has nothing to do with the transfer case directly, but drivers often begin to look for the cause there. To avoid problems finding the cause, first check and tighten the support fasteners; Vibration can be caused by jamming of the joints on the cardan shafts.

This often happens when they are deformed; replace damaged parts; Sometimes such a sign may indicate incorrect adjustment of the handbrake; Difficulty turning the constant velocity joint of the transfer case intermediate shaft. To identify this malfunction, the integrity of the hinge cover, as well as the mechanism itself, must be checked.

If there are kinks or defects, the part must be replaced as an assembly. Sometimes the transfer case, and accordingly the floor above it, can vibrate in a stable mode of movement.

How to disable or remove the adsorber on a car and do you need to reflash the ECU?

You need to understand that when the adsorber is removed, the solenoid valve is turned off, which is directly connected to the controller and controlled by the latter.

This will lead to error p0443, which we already mentioned above. The tubes are also silenced, in particular the one that goes to the intake manifold.

What is the disadvantage of such a shutdown?

The fact is that through the tube that goes to the intake manifold, air is constantly sucked in; even in idle mode, the so-called small purge of the adsorber occurs. At high speeds from 1500 – 2000 and above there is a lot of purging.

In the ECU firmware, constant air leaks and the flow of fuel vapor are taken into account when forming the air-fuel mixture, despite the fact that all this goes past the mass air flow sensor, the causes of the malfunction of which can be found out by clicking on the link.

If you plug the pipe, which many people do, a certain amount of air will not flow into the intake manifold bypassing the ECU, but the latter still takes them into account.

That is, the controller takes into account one volume of air, but another (smaller) one actually enters. As a result, the amount of fuel is generated by the ECU based on more air than is supplied. This leads to an over-enrichment of the air-fuel mixture.

As a result, the engine does not work correctly, because the mixture is constantly over-enriched where it is and is not needed, and fuel consumption increases.

It is also worth talking about the transient mode of operation of the engine, which can manifest itself when approaching an intersection, a traffic light, lying to a policeman, at the moment when the gas is released.

At this moment, a failure may occur - a decrease in speed below idle. The engine seems to choke, it doesn’t have enough air, the reason is an over-enriched mixture. After a few seconds, the situation is resolved electronically.

Therefore, it would be correct to disable the adsorber in the following ways:

How to disable the adsorber on a VAZ 2110, 2112, 2114

Taking into account the recommendations above, we do the following:

With this scheme, when the valve opens, clean air enters the system, albeit without gasoline vapors.

We exclude the valve

This method is even simpler. We dismantle everything, including the valve. We put a fuel filter on the pipe coming from the gas tank, and we plug the pipe going to the intake manifold with a bolt and clamp.

The consequences of this method are described above, but this method also has the right to life.

As for Priora, Granta, Lada Largus, Gazelle and other cars, the absorber is turned off in similar ways as described above.

Toyota Chaser

It is worth considering one of the foreign cars, for example, the Toyota Chaser.

The shutdown principle is similar to the previous ones:

Adsorber. Can't you change it and remove it? And what's inside! — Chevrolet Niva, 1.7 l., 2008 on DRIVE2

The adsorber itself practically does not fail. In 99% of cases, it was the tube on the adsorber that broke off in the cold!

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The fitting on the Niva adsorber broke off

When removing the cover from the engine in cold weather, it is very easy to damage (break off) this fitting.

Many people advise “not to install an adsorber, but simply plug the line.”

But not everything is so simple!

adsorber operating principle

Two hoses. One to the gas tank, the other to the engine. In the gas tank, when there is a temperature difference outside, excess pressure is created (and then the vapors are “dumped” into the adsorber) or a vacuum is created “and then air enters the gas tank through the adsorber.”

And when the engine starts, the valve on the second hose opens and excess vapor is burned out in the combustion chamber. These tubes cannot be connected directly! Where will the pressure be released? And when the valve is open, what will the engine suck from the gas tank? o_o

You can remove the adsober valve and plug the hose to the engine with a bolt and clamp. But then you need to change the firmware (remove the valve from the firmware). And put a classic fuel filter on the hose from the gas tank. So that crap doesn't get sucked into the gas tank. But wouldn't it be easier to just change the adsorber?!

I now have this one:

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New adsorber

Adsorber code 21103-1164010. But I have a separate valve. It happens that the adsorber is directly with the valve.

————————————— It was always interesting. What's inside the adsorber?

And there is a carbon filter. In the visa of pressed crumbs. Not crumbly. And just a cylinder.

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what's inside the adsorber

Well, I sawed it in half again.

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So: the gas tank breathes through the adsorber! Don't stop breathing.

By the way, who knows: the canister purge valve comes off for a certain period of time? Or does it work as long as the engine is running?