Why Lada Priora starts and stalls and what to do

What could it be?

Causes

Your car may not start right away or may stall immediately when one or more parts of the system are faulty.

Now let's look at the reasons why the Priora does not start at all. So:

• Check the electrical connections of the ignition coil. They may be weakened or damaged. Replace if necessary;
• It's also worth taking a look at the fuel rail. There may be insufficient pressure;
• there may be problems with the intake tract. Check the catalytic manifold and intake manifold. The connections of these parts may be leaky;
• Perform engine diagnostics. It may be broken;
• oil can freeze in the cold;
• The battery may be low. This can be understood by the rotation of the crankshaft;
• an equally significant reason may be frozen water in the ramp, in which case your fuel system is faulty;
• in the cylinders - low pressure;
• It’s also worth checking the fuel injectors, they should be sealed;
• Possible injector malfunction.

Your favorite car, Lada Priora, may have difficulty starting during frosts, that is, it will start and immediately stall.

There are also a number of reasons that cause this problem:

• large accumulation of water in gasoline. Check this and better change the fuel;
• examine the entire ignition system - from the module to the high-voltage wires;
• look at the oxygen sensor;
• Another common cause is a malfunction of the immobilizer and alarm system. Many people advise solving this problem by reflashing the engine control unit.

Equally important is the constant maintenance of your car.

It may be that the starter turns, but your Priora does not start. What can be done about this?

Low battery charge

If the Priora has an old battery installed, then in cold weather it discharges faster. This means that starting a cold engine in the morning can be problematic. Sometimes even a new battery drains quickly. In this case, you should look for current leaks. It may be in the wiring or the leak is occurring in some device.

If the search for current leakage does not produce results, then it is recommended to check how the generator charges the battery. If the charge is insufficient, then the battery will not charge fully. As a result, the starter will turn much harder than if the engine was cold.

Causes of management problems

The Priora most often does not start because the battery drains quickly or is completely discharged. In this case, the amount of charge is not enough to operate the engine.

Diagnosing the starter is easy. To understand what condition it is in, you need to pay attention to the sound coming from under the hood. A cracking sound will indicate a discharged battery. Charge the battery. Any parts of the car may be subject to corrosion, which will subsequently weaken the contact between them.

Humid air also affects parts, and if your Priora has a full gas tank and the battery is charged, pay attention to the following:

• starter;
• battery terminals;
• connections between the wires of the circuit;
• presence of condensation.

In case of corrosion, clean or replace the oxidized element. The terminals still need to be coated with special technical Vaseline. For the system to work, pay attention to the position and contacts between the wires. If at least one is disconnected, connect according to a special diagram.

Use a tester to check the condition of the coil. Check the fuel pump relay and fuse. It may be damaged and interfere with the fuel supply.

Replacing the gas pedal on Grant

The replacement procedure is quite simple and does not require special technical means. In order to dismantle the unit you will need: - A key for 10.

Sequential steps to replace the gas pedal of a Lada Granta:

1. The first step is to remove the negative terminal from the battery. 2. Next, you need to move to the driver’s side of the car. 3. Above the gas pedal, find and disconnect the contact chip that is connected to the sensor connector.

4. After that, take a 10mm wrench and unscrew the three fastening nuts. When there is insufficient internal space, it is most convenient to use a socket wrench. 5. Remove the pedal from the special mounting pins. Reinstallation is carried out in a mirror sequence.

Checking the operation of systems

If the starter turns, but the Priora does not start, pay attention to other systems. For example, the power unit cannot start working if the ECU or coolant sensor is faulty.

If the crankshaft sensor stops working, then you need to immediately contact professionals at a service station, but, alas, you won’t be able to get there; you’ll have to call a tow truck.

Problems with the crankshaft may be due to the breakdown of individual components of the cylinder-piston group, generator wedge or coolant pump.

During frosts, oil can also freeze. In this case, drain it and switch to the one recommended by the manufacturer.

The engine may not start if the fuel line or fuel line is not working properly. They may be dirty or damaged. But despite all this, the starter can work normally. Clean the wire from dirt to restore pressure in the rail or completely replace the damaged areas.

An equally important reason that the Priora does not start may be a blown fuse, control system relay or idle air regulator. Try pressing on the gas pedal until you accelerate. If, after you release the gas pedal, the Priora stalls, then this is a problem with the idle speed sensor. Contact the service station.

All these problems are very serious and require immediate repair. Be sure to diagnose all systems so that you do not return to this problem in the future.

Oil

Many car owners try to change their oil before winter. But not everyone knows that the oil with the lowest viscosity is best suited for winter. Thick oil will simply harden in winter. In addition, when the engine is cold, it is very difficult for it to drive thick oil through the channels. If the picture is complemented by an old battery, then this aggravates the situation even more. Therefore, you need to try to purchase oil of exactly the viscosity at which the engine can start normally even in cold weather. Typically, a product with a viscosity of 5W30 is purchased. But in any case, you need to look at the manufacturer's recommendations. You should not deviate significantly from the tolerances.

Checking the exhaust system

It may be that your beloved Priora does not start due to a poor air-fuel mixture. The engine may stall if the exhaust gases are not removed but mixed with oxygen. In this case, there are only two reasons for the malfunction:

1. Malfunction of the muffler catalyst. This may be due to debris and dirt in it, and in frosty conditions the liquid contained in it can freeze.
2. The muffler itself sometimes freezes up due to the liquid in it, or it simply becomes clogged with debris.

Throttle valve

A dirty throttle body could very well be the cause. The Priora has difficulty starting when cold due to the supply of not clean air through the damper, but with various deposits. All this can prevent the preparation of a normal mixture in the correct proportions.

Sometimes the throttle valve can even get stuck due to the huge amount of deposits on it. To solve the problem, experts recommend cleaning the throttle - you can do this yourself using an injector cleaning spray.

Checking the ECU malfunction

This check is simply necessary, since ECU breakdowns are very common. This is the main reason if your Priora starts and stalls after a couple of moments. Some damage can be seen on the control panel. For diagnostics, you need a special device to detect errors.

If you are unable to solve this problem on your own, contact a specialist.

There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation with our corporate lawyer by simply submitting your question in the form below.

Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › Starts and stalls…

Friends and comrades, help me out, I no longer have the strength to fight this accursed woman. The situation is this: I start the car mainly from autostart. At the moment of starting it starts and stalls, it takes 4-5 attempts to start. Moreover, at night I have it for about 8 hours and starts 4-5 times, I come to work - it sits there for 12 hours and starts the second time. It happens that it won’t start with the key, but if at the moment when the current grabs you press the gas, it won’t stall. I changed the idle speed control, the throttle position sensor, the spark plugs, the injectors, the knock sensor, but there are no errors. Maybe someone had such parsley, help me out, otherwise I’m afraid in the cold I’ll just put the battery in with so many starts.

Some tips

Car owners complain that their car has difficulty starting when hot. If in the morning the vehicle can be started well, then after a short drive and turning off the engine, you will need to turn the starter while pressing the gas to start the engine. At the same time, it starts to smell like gasoline and stops for a few seconds.

Auto mechanics recommend solving this problem by replacing the following parts:

• spark plugs,
• fuel and air filters,
• installing a thick textolite gasket under the fuel pump,
• injectors,
• ignition module,
• water temperature sensor.

FakeHeader

Comments 61

wash the throttle body!

found the reason? same problem

no, I haven’t found it, I want to find a real IAC, not a fake one, but I can’t find it yet

I found the reason, look in the blog tomorrow, maybe it’s the same for you

it's good if I found it, I'll definitely read it, I hope it's the same for me

In short, I realized one thing in car services they screw up, it’s better to look for those who do diagnostics at home themselves, but in general someone in our city should know good diagnosticians; you can count them on the fingers of one hand, I think in your city you should also ask your friends

check the pressure on the ramp, if the current with gas starts up, then the rcx is to blame, because it is he who sets the starting gap bypassing the damper. Rhx is the nose, and the throttle is the mouth, close both and there will be nothing to breathe)). Well, look at the dpkv again, maybe the wiring has come loose

Lada Priora Hatchback › Logbook › Starts up and immediately stalls

I'm changing the IAC, it doesn't help, I'm going to the diagnostics on a hot one, of course there's nothing there, it doesn't show anything, everything seems to be fine. Well, great, I think I’m going to another diagnostic, and it also says everything is fine, but I need to look at it cold. I drag the car to him on a cable and he tells me that at the moment of tripling it begins to misfire in all cylinders in turn, I need an IAC sensor, I don’t have enough air for her, I change it, there are no changes, he says let’s flash it, maybe with the program we’ll flash something all the same. I am changing the fuel pump because this one gave 3.5 pressure, the new one gives 4+ pressure and still no changes, I tried installing all the coils and sensors from another working machine and still no changes.

Hurray I did it! When it was left to try to replace the only camshaft sensor, then I started removing the intake to change it, otherwise I wouldn’t be able to get to it. I installed a new sensor and put everything back together, but it got worse. I started disassembling all this garbage again, installed the old sensor and noticed that the rubber bands on the intake manifold were completely dry. I went to the store and bought rubber bands for 80 rubles. I assembled everything and the car froze. Well, I think I’ll try it in the morning when it’s cold, I go out in the morning and here it’s -28, I sat down and the car started and didn’t stall for three days, everything’s been okay. The result of this event is almost 7,000 rubles, which were spent on sensors, diagnostics, and a fuel pump.

Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › Starts and stalls! what's the matter ?

Hello guys! Who is watching knows - the car is after an accident! I bought a new ABK! The problem is this: I insert the key, turn it, everything lights up, the fuel pump works, I start it and it just starts and immediately stalls! There is no time to react to the gas pedal! Where to dig? what could be the problem ?!

Once again I need your help! Anyone who has encountered this, TELL ME!

Comments 39

My friend, tell me, what was the reason? why did she go deaf?

Salute, during an accident the intake manifold was punctured!

Thank you very much for your prompt response! I didn’t have an accident, I’ll check the IAC tomorrow.

My pleasure ! ))) his first thing! Air is being sucked in somewhere...

There is no need to guess, but you need to go for diagnostics - so that they connect the device and see if there are any error codes. I had such a problem, I replaced a bunch of sensors according to the advice from the hot weather (both IAC and TPS), well I didn’t get to the mass air flow sensor. I cleaned the whole throttle and it turned out to be nothing. phase sensor (which I didn’t even think about) so don’t be lazy and get to the service center.

I didn’t have time to tinker with the car today, I think tomorrow!

The book “ECM of cars of the LADA Priora, LADA Kalina, LADA 4×4 families with controller ME17.9.7/M75 EURO-4 device and diagnostics” should help. www.drive2.ru/communities/LPC/blog/666469/

From the heart! Very useful! Good luck on the roads!

Fuel pump

This is one of the popular reasons why Priora has difficulty starting when cold. This is due to a malfunction in the fuel pump. You can even hear the sound of the node operating. But if the pump is faulty, the fuel system will not have the pressure necessary for normal operation. There is no pressure in the fuel rail, which means that starting will be poor, or the engine will not start at all.

The fuel pump can only be checked using your ears. You need to turn on the ignition of the Lada Priora. At the same time, if the fuel pump is working, a characteristic buzzing sound will be heard from the side of the tank. It will only last a few seconds. When a sufficient amount of gasoline is pumped into the ramp and the pressure becomes normal, then the pump will turn off. If there is no buzzing sound after turning on the ignition, it is recommended to replace the fuel pump.

1 Topic by Admin 2015-11-21 08:32:14

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• Registration: 2012-02-20
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Topic: Resolved: In cold weather -17 and below it won’t start, it seizes and immediately stalls, I’ve been worrying for a year!

One user contacted. He has a Priora. As soon as the frost is -17 and below, it will not start. Beginning. twist, grab and immediately stall, and so on ad infinitum. If by some miracle it starts, the speed rises sharply, then drops and stalls again. After I’ve fired up all the spark plugs, I’ll charge the dead new battery to zero after trying to start it at -17-20 (below -20 I don’t even go near it), and if, by some miracle, it starts, then you just have to turn it off , you start to start, and only the starter spins, you start to nervously press the gas pedal, it jerks and starts as if for the last time. But most often she remains standing in the yard, one of hundreds of cars. That's it, every day, every week, every year as soon as frost appears. If I can’t start it at all, I’ll take it to a warm garage or wait until summer. Both there and there it starts normally. They did everything - diagnostics, replaced sensors, only pour good oil, iridium spark plugs, new battery. etc.

Last year they shook up all the wiring, replaced the power cable, checked the ground on the car - everything is normal, changed the generator, everything is working fine, there are no losses anywhere. I changed 4 coils last year to BOSH. Today it was -20 in the morning - that’s it, I tried to turn it as much as I could, in the end it started, it felt like it was on one cylinder and even with the gas pedal pressed, as soon as you let go - the end of the movie.

The pressure in the fuel system and compression were checked when it was warm outside - everything was normal. Compression - 5+. In the summer, like thunder, the new belt broke and the valves were bent. I also changed the piston, since there was wear and knocking, there was a complete engine diagnostics. After 3000 thousand I checked everything - absolutely everything is normal. After that, 2000 years passed - there were no complaints about the flight, I even thought that since I had made such a large and expensive repair, she would take pity and everything would be fine in the winter, yeah, right now, just like everything was that year. I also cleaned the injectors and changed the temperature sensor, since many advised heating it at home and then supposedly quickly replacing it, a great idea failed. Guys, I don’t know what to do anymore, honestly. Diagnostics after such a hard cold start do not show anything critical. There were mistakes, I don’t remember the numbers. I blame the sensors: phase-crankshaft-drpv, but all the diagnosticians loudly say that it’s not them, it would be immediately obvious. I replaced the speed sensor, 2 times in a row, to no avail. To sell - it’s a pity that so much effort and money was invested, the prices now are simply ridiculous, but I can’t imagine what to do.

When a VAZ 2110 car starts and then stalls: our actions

Quite often during the operation of a car, a problem occurs when the VAZ 2110 starts and stalls almost instantly, and sometimes the engine stops working even at low speeds. This problem, of course, is faced not only by owners of domestic cars, but also of foreign cars. Any model is susceptible to this.

Many drivers do not know how to act in such a situation and begin to panic, feeling helpless. There is no need to senselessly pull on wires and pipes, much less kick the wheel. Such actions will definitely not help in determining the cause of the malfunction and eliminating it.

Another situation arises when the majority of car owners calm down if the car still starts after some time, and considers: the car started - that means everything is in order! But the problem remains, it has not been solved, and a similar situation is repeated. And again panic begins, to which is added indignation due to the fact that the malfunction was not eliminated at the very first occurrence of a similar picture.

The reasons that a car stalls at idle immediately after starting are different, and they most often depend on the model or generation of different brands of cars. This could be a clogged valve in the gas distribution system, or burnt relay contacts in the fuel pump.

Some car enthusiasts are able to carry out simple work to identify the problem and fix it later. For those who do not belong to this category, it is recommended to go to a car service center or call a tow truck if you still cannot start.

This is interesting: Why should the air conditioner in the car work even in winter?

Methods for diagnosing the idle air regulator (IAC)

The most common cause of the described problem, as well as the fact that the car cannot be started at all, is a malfunction of an engine part such as the idle air control. This happens most often on domestically produced cars. There are several possible situations where an IAC malfunction may occur. While the car is moving, a short-term stop occurs, as a result of which the engine stalls when hot immediately after it starts, or refuses to start at all.

After the engine has started, normal idle speed is restored only when the gas pedal is pressed at least once. Observation of similar behavior is possible with a cold engine. The initial attempt to start the engine is unsuccessful, normal operation is restored only after pressing the gas pedal.

In different situations, it may be enough to either press the pedal once or hold it until the engine warms up. An IAC malfunction may occur during sudden braking, when the engine stalls unexpectedly, and restarting shows a normal idle speed above 1500 and within 2000 rpm.

If this is the case with your car, you can try washing the IAC and throttle assembly using a special solution. If the problems do not go away, the idle air control will have to be replaced. Over time, some components may wear out naturally.

Compression

If the 16-valve Priora has difficulty starting when cold, and all the options described above are not suitable, then it is worth checking the compression. In this case, with low compression, starting a cold engine can be very difficult.

When engine parts are warm enough, they expand. Even a slight expansion will be enough for the compression to rise and the engine to start. If the engine is cold, there is no expansion. Therefore, starting will be difficult.

Problem with the injector: features

Most modern cars have a forced fuel injection system. Therefore, such a situation when a car stalls while driving is quite common and can be caused by the erroneous use of an injection engine. There is no need to disconnect the battery while the engine is still running. You should resort to using a cigarette lighter in the most extreme cases, minimizing its use if possible.

Injector for VAZ 2110

In general, it is better to exercise extreme caution with the power system. Such actions can have a detrimental effect on the sensitive injector. If possible, it is better to leave the mass on. Otherwise, the data on your computer may be lost. It is advisable to let the engine run for about three minutes at idle speed. If charging and starting devices are used with the injector, the electronic control unit may burn out.

If the car in the circuit has a neutralizer, then when trying to start the vehicle it is better to avoid towing or driving downhill. This results in the formation of fuel that has not been used, and this can lead to spontaneous combustion if it enters the converter. Avoid getting water into the engine. To do this, you should promptly replace fuel filters and fill in high-quality gasoline.