The main symptoms of a malfunction of the VAZ-2110 TPS: how to check them

Hi all! I hope the information from this post will be useful and will be useful to someone! Good luck on the roads and a full tank!

The “symptoms” of a faulty throttle position sensor include the following:

1. Increased idle speed. 2. The engine stalls in neutral gear. 3. Idle speed floats. 4. Jerks during acceleration. 5. Deterioration in dynamics. 6. In some cases, the Check Engine light may come on.

Diagnosis of the throttle position sensor is carried out as follows:

1. Turn on the ignition, then check the voltage between the slider contact and the minus with a voltmeter. The voltmeter should show no more than 0.7 V. 2. Next, turn the plastic sector, thereby fully opening the damper, then measure the voltage again. The device should show at least 4 V. 3. Now turn off the ignition completely and pull out the connector. Check the resistance between the slider contact and any terminal. 4. Slowly, turning the sector, monitor the voltmeter readings. Make sure that the needle moves smoothly and slowly; if you notice jumps, the throttle position sensor is faulty and must be replaced.

Replacing the throttle position sensor:

1. Disconnect the wire from the “–” terminal of the battery. 2. Disconnect the block with wires from the throttle position sensor by pressing the plastic latch. 3. Unscrew the two mounting screws and remove the throttle position sensor from the throttle pipe. 4. Install the new sensor in the reverse order, but do not forget about the foam ring. The throttle position sensor does not require any adjustment, since the controller perceives idle speed (i.e. the throttle valve is completely closed) as the zero mark.

The “symptoms” of a faulty idle speed sensor include the following:

1. Spontaneous unregulated change in engine speed (sudden decrease or increase). 2. When turning on a “cold” engine, there is no increase in speed. 3. When using additional vehicle devices (heater, headlights), the idle speed is simultaneously reduced. 4. The engine stalls at idle and when shifting gears. It is necessary to remember that the readings of the VAZ 2110 injector idle speed sensor are not “readable” by the automatic on-board power system, and it is not integrated into the “Check Engine” alarm system.

Diagnostics of the idle speed controller is carried out as follows:

There are several ways to analyze the idle speed sensor, but the main ones - the simplest and most effective - are the methods described below:

1. First you need to “get” to the device, disconnect it from the connecting block of wires 2. Using the most common voltmeter, check for the presence of voltage - the “minus” goes to the engine, and the “plus” to the terminals of the same block of wires A and D. 3. Turns on ignition, and the received data is analyzed - the voltage should be within twelve volts, if less, then most likely there are problems with the battery charge; if there is no voltage, then you will have to check both the electronic control unit and the entire circuit. 4. Then we continue the inspection with the ignition on, and analyze terminals A:B, C:D one by one - the optimal resistance will be about fifty-three ohms; During normal operation of the IAC, the resistance will be infinitely high.

Also, with the sensor removed and the ignition on, if you connect a power supply to it, the conical needle of the sensor should move out; if this does not happen, it means it is faulty.

1. Remove the negative terminal of the battery. 2. Disconnect the IAC from the block harness. 3. Using a multimeter, we measure the resistance of the external and internal windings of the IAC, while the resistance parameters of contacts A and B, and C and D should be 40-80 Ohms. 4. If the instrument scale is zero, it is necessary to replace the IAC with a serviceable one, and if the required parameters are obtained, we check the resistance values ​​in pairs B and C, A and D. 5. The instrument must detect an “open circuit.” 6. With such indicators, the IAC is in good working order, and if they are absent, the regulator must be replaced.

If the problem lies precisely in the operation of the regulator, then you should not rush and immediately go to a car service center, since you can clean the idle speed sensor yourself, as well as replace it.

Cleaning and replacing the idle air control.

The first thing you need to do is purchase a carburetor cleaner, and then get down to business: 1. The wire block is disconnected from the sensor. 2. Afterwards, both of its fastenings are unscrewed, and the sensor is removed. 3. If necessary, the IAC is completely cleaned of possible debris and contaminants on the cone needle and spring. 4. Also, do not forget to clean the mounting hole on the throttle assembly, where the conical needle of the sensor enters. 5. After cleaning, install everything in its original location.

If nothing has changed in the operation of the car - the same problems and inconveniences are present - then the regulator should be replaced.

It is worth noting that when purchasing you need to pay attention to the end mark 04. Sensors are produced with mark 01 02 03 04, so look at the mark of the old sensor and purchase the same one. If you put, for example, a sensor labeled 04 instead of 01, the sensor will not work. The following replacement is allowed: 01 to 03, 02 to 04 and vice versa.

Replacing the idle speed sensor can also be done without any problems:

1. The on-board system of the car is de-energized. 2. The block with wires is disconnected from the XX regulator. 3. The screws are unscrewed and finally the sensor is removed. 4. Attach the new device in the reverse order.

If you are faced with a situation where the engine idles unevenly or the car periodically stalls for unclear reasons , then the fault of the power unit may be a malfunction of the throttle position sensor . You should not immediately go to a service station, because this problem can be eliminated on your own.

TPS design

The throttle position sensor is a device that is designed to accurately distribute the amount of fuel mixture entering the engine combustion chamber. Its use in modern engines allows increasing the efficiency of the car, as well as increasing the efficiency of the power unit. It is located in the fuel supply system on the throttle valve axis.

This is what the TPS design looks like

At the present stage of development of automotive technology, the following types of TPS are presented on the market:

Non-contact throttle position sensor with pin designation

The latter structurally have resistive contacts in the form of tracks along which the voltage is determined, while non-contact ones carry out this measurement based on the magnetic effect. Sensor differences are characterized by their price and service life. Contactless ones are more expensive, but their service life is noticeably longer.

Operating principle

As mentioned above, the sensor is located near the throttle valve . When you press the pedal, it measures the output voltage. In the case when the throttle valve is in the “closed” position, the voltage in the sensor is up to 0.7 Volts . When the driver presses the gas, the throttle axis rotates and accordingly changes the inclination of the slider at a specific angle. The sensor response is manifested in a change in resistance on the contact tracks and, consequently, an increase in the output voltage. When the throttle is fully open, the voltage is up to 4 Volts . The data is for VAZ cars .

These values ​​are read by the vehicle's electronic control unit. Based on the data obtained, he applies changes to the amount of fuel mixture supplied. It is worth noting that this entire procedure occurs almost instantly, which allows you to effectively select the engine operating mode, as well as fuel consumption.

Electronic throttle valve: how does it work and how to repair it?

The trend in automotive engineering in recent years has been the systematic removal of the driver from direct control of the car. So far, thank God, we have not reached the point of losing the rigid connection of our arms and legs with the turning wheels and brakes, but everything is clearly heading that way... At least, not a single car these days is produced without an electronic throttle, with which we We do not give a direct command to the throttle “more air!” with the right foot through the cable, and express a wish to the engine control unit, which itself sends a command to the damper. Is this good or bad, and how to live with it?

Background

It is generally accepted that the so-called E-gas is a technology of the last decade or so. In its pure form - yes, but the integrated electric drive in throttle valves appeared much earlier - back in the 80s. In those years, on the damper axis, on one side there was a gas sector connected to the accelerator pedal with a classic cable (yes, the “wheel” that is driven by a cable from the pedal is called the “gas sector”!), and on the other side, the damper axis connected through a gear transmission to a small electric motor.

Actually, the motor had no influence on the behavior of the car when moving - the connection with the driver’s foot was old-school, mechanical and clear: as you press, so will you go! And the electric motor started working only in idle mode, adjusting the speed of the damper slightly during warming up and after warming up, and also slightly adding gas when turning on powerful consumers of electricity and torque - air conditioning in the summer, power steering in the cold, various heating systems, etc. A little later, the functions of the motor in the throttle expanded - with an almost unchanged design, electronic commands were added: it began to control not only idle speed, but also speed while driving - when the cruise control is turned on and when the traction control system is activated.

Now everything has reached the “apophygea of ​​technology” - the mechanical connection between the damper and the gas pedal has disappeared in principle, and all commands - both from the driver’s foot and from service systems - are received by the throttle only through the mediation of the engine control unit. There are three reasons for this:

• Environmental requirements;
• Increased fuel economy;
• Convenient implementation of many modern car functions.

Electronic throttle these days

So, the direct connection between the throttle valve and the pedal has been completely and completely abolished. As I already said, by pressing the pedal we send a signal to the control unit, which in turn analyzes the situation and many parameters, and then issues a command to supply air. At the same time, it must be said that over a good ten years of development of the tandem of an electronic gas pedal and an electronic throttle in its modern understanding, the system has successfully outgrown a number of childhood diseases - both purely physical and software.

Wearing sliding contacts of damper position sensors have been replaced by non-contact inductive coupling, and many new functions have appeared - not so obvious as to take a line in the technical description of the car, but quite important in the complex.

For example, the gas pedal travel has become non-linear, which makes it possible to better control the car when starting to move: with a powerful engine (where the damper has a large diameter), the risk of excessively rushing forward when lightly touching the pedal has disappeared - the electronic throttle reacts deliberately sluggishly in the first quarter of the gas pedal travel .

E-gas allows for the most optimal acceleration in a car with a turbocharged engine, significantly combating turbo lag and providing smoother acceleration from the bottom. E-gas will also help in the “pedal to the floor” mode, when in the case of a classic cable damper, the first moments of non-optimal combustion of the mixture occur, and seconds are lost during acceleration. Of course, we cannot fail to mention the effective automatic engine traction control system to combat drift and slippage of the drive wheels.

However, it should be noted that the behavior of the electronic throttle on budget cars is still seriously different from mid-price and, especially, premium cars. In “budget” cars, E-gas, unfortunately, is too dull, thoughtful and does not contribute to getting true pleasure from the drive.

Moreover, sometimes it has a negative impact on safety - a throttle with suboptimal control software reacts to pedal pressure with a delay, delivering torque to the wheels when it is already too late. In the absence of stabilization systems in winter on slippery surfaces and when turning, such a car reaction can negate your traditional winter driving skills and create an emergency situation.

Signs of sensor malfunction

When the TPS is in good working order, your vehicle operates without uncharacteristic jerking or jerking and quickly responds to pressing the gas pedal. If any of these conditions are not met, then there may be a sensor malfunction. This can be determined by the following signs:

• Starting the engine is difficult both hot and cold;
• Fuel consumption increases significantly;
• When driving, the engine jerks;
• At idle, the speed is often higher than normal;
• The car's acceleration is sluggish;
• Sometimes there are extraneous sounds similar to popping noises in the area of ​​the intake manifold;
• The power unit may stall at idle;
• The Check indicator on the instrument panel blinks or stays on.

Most often, the sensor becomes unusable due to exceeding its service life due to wear-out. The contact group has a coating and, accordingly, it is characterized by wear. Those TPS that operate on a non-contact principle do not have this drawback and, accordingly, last much longer.

In order to finally make sure that it is necessary to replace this part, you need to be able to check the sensor .

Video on the topic:

Fuel pressure sensor (FPS)

Used to transmit information about pressure in the fuel system to the ECU. DDTs are mounted on different types of engines, running on both gasoline and diesel (with Common Rail). Installation location: fuel rail of the power unit.

The task of DDT is to maintain pressure at the required level and ensure normal operation of the power unit. This ensures normal power and noise levels. Sometimes a car has two sensors - high / low pressure.

DDT has a simple device:

• sensor component (metal membrane);
• strain gauge (an element that, when deformed, leads to a change in its electrical resistance).

The thicker the membrane part, the higher pressure DDT can withstand.

As for strain gauges, they are needed to convert mechanical actions into electrical commands. In normal mode, a voltage from 0 to 80 mV is generated at the output.

If this parameter is exceeded, a special valve in the fuel system is activated, ensuring normalization of pressure.

The breakdown of DDT manifests itself in the following signs:

• ignition of the Check Engine lamp on the “tidy” (P0191 in the scanner);
• excessive consumption of fuel;
• difficulties starting the power unit;
• loss of engine power;
• shutdown on XX;
• fuel leakage from fuel hoses/rail.

If any of these symptoms appear, it is advisable to check the computer for errors.

The reasons for the breakdown of DDT include:

• damage to the internal elements of the sensor;
• wiring fault;
• contamination of the mesh on the regulator due to debris getting into the fuel, for example, when the fuel filter did not cope with the job;
• wear/wedge of the locking element inside the pressure regulator;
• incomplete fit of the DDT casing to the rail;
• ECU failure.

To check the old sensors, it was enough to turn off the “return” of the fuel supply for a while on a cold engine. If the engine stops running, it means the problem is in the DDT.

On new devices you need to measure the voltage, which should be about 5 V.

It is also worth checking the voltage between the “minus” of the chip (black wire) and the “plus” of the battery (red wire). If the voltage is about 12 V, then the DDT is working. When checking with a pressure gauge, the pressure should be about 2.5-3 atm.

Checking TPS

Checking the throttle position sensor for VAZ 2110, 2114, Priora, Kalina, Renault Logan , etc. cars is carried out as follows:

1. Turn off the car ignition;
2. Use a voltmeter to check the sensor voltage, which is about 0.7 Volts when the damper is closed;
3. Measure the output voltage with the damper fully open. It should be about 4 Volts;
4. Check the uniformity of the voltage change by turning the sensor slider. In this case, there should be no jumps in values.

If there are deviations in the received data, the part must be replaced with a new one. In cases where the values ​​coincide, the sensor is working and the breakdown should be looked for in other sensors.

Checking the speed sensor

First you need to find out whether there is grounding and 12 V voltage in the contacts. These contacts are wired, and the contact with pulse signals is tested by torsion.

The voltage between the pin and ground should be in the range from 0.5 V to 10 V.

Method 1 (check with a voltmeter)

1. We remove the speed sensor.
2. We use a voltmeter. Let's find out which terminal is responsible for what. We connect the incoming contact of the voltmeter to the terminal that outputs pulse signals. We ground the second contact of the voltmeter to the engine or machine body.
3. By rotating the speed sensor, we determine whether there are signals in the operating cycle and measure the output voltage of the sensor. To do this, you can put a piece of tube on the sensor axis (twist at a speed of 3-5 km/h). The faster you rotate the sensor, the higher the voltage and frequency in the voltmeter should be.

Method 2 (without removing from the car)

1. Place the car on a jack so that one wheel does not touch the ground.
2. We connect the contacts of the sensor with a voltmeter.
3. We rotate the wheel and diagnose whether voltage appears - if there is voltage and frequency in Hz, then the speed sensor is working.

Method 3 (check with a control or light bulb)

1. Disconnect the pulse wire from the sensor.
2. Using the control, we look for “+” and “–” (after turning on the ignition).
3. We hang one wheel as in the previous method.
4. We connect the control wire to the “Signal” wire and rotate the wheel with our hands. If “-” lights up on the control panel, then the speed sensor is working.

If you don’t have a control at hand, you can use a wire with a light bulb. The test is carried out as follows: connect one side of the wire to the battery positive. Another signal to the connector. When rotating, if the sensor is working, the light will blink.

Checking the DS with a tester

What is TPS in a VAZ-2110 car?

The throttle position sensor is abbreviated as TPS among motorists. This part is used in several types of engines:

1. Gasoline injection type.
2. Single injection type.
3. Diesel engines.

TPS is also known as a throttle valve potentiometer. This is due to the fact that the sensor is designed to function as a variable resistor. The sensor itself is installed in the engine compartment - the place of fixation is the throttle pipe. The mechanism of operation of the sensor is as follows: depending on the position and degree of opening of the throttle valve, the resistance also changes. That is, the level of the value of such resistance depends on the pressing of the gas pedal. If the pedal is not pressed, the throttle valve will be closed and the resistance will be minimal. The opposite is true when the damper is open. Accordingly, the voltage across the TPS, which is directly proportional to the resistance, will also change.

The control of such changes is carried out by the electronic control system; it is the one that receives all signals from the TPS and supplies fuel using the fuel system.

So, at the maximum voltage of the signal contact of the throttle position sensor, the fuel system of the VAZ-2110 car will supply the largest portion of fuel.

Thus, the more accurate the TPS indicators, the better the VAZ-2110 electronic system adjusts the engine to the correct operating mode.

Methods for diagnosing TPD

The most common test of the sensor is to measure resistance or voltage at various throttle positions (closed, half-open, and fully open). We will perform testing using the voltage measurement function.

1. Open the hood and remove the air filter assembly where it connects to the throttle body.
2. Inspect the throttle plate and the throttle body walls around it.

* If you see carbon deposits on the walls or under the choke plate, clean this assembly using carburetor cleaner (carb cleaner) and a clean rag. The surface must be completely clean. Carbon deposits and dirt can prevent the throttle valve from closing and moving freely.

1. Locate the TPS mounted on the side of the throttle body. The sensor is made in the form of a small plastic block with a three-wire connector.

Communication of the throttle valve with other automotive systems of the VAZ-2110

The throttle valve of a VAZ-2110 car is a component of the engine intake system and is directly connected to a large number of other vehicle systems. These include the following systems:

• directional stability;
• anti-blocking;
• anti-slip;
• anti-slip;
• cruise control.

In addition, there are those systems that are controlled by the electronics of the gearbox. After all, it is this throttle valve that regulates the flow of air into the car system and is responsible for the quality composition of the fuel-air mixture.

The main signs of failure of the TPS

If the device is faulty, then error p0120, which was mentioned above, may appear, as well as other errors indicating that there are deviations in the operation of the sensor: P2135, P0222, P0122, P0223, P0123, P0220, P01578. The errors themselves are not displayed on the dashboard, only the “Check Engine” light comes on, they can be seen on diagnostic scanners, mobile devices or a laptop (more on this later).

As for error P2135, it is typical for modern cars with electronic remote control position control. Its full name is “Mismatch of readings from sensors No. 1 and No. 2 of the throttle position.” Occurs when there is increased resistance in the circuit of one of the wires (there are four of them). About its reasons in the next section.

Other signs of TPS malfunction:

1. Floating speed, at idle the car shakes violently or stalls. A sharp jump in rpm up to 2000 - 3000.
2. The dynamics of the car drops, especially during acceleration (dips, jerks), towing, climbing a mountain, transporting goods; as people say, the engine does not pull. This also happens due to the unstable operation of the automatic transmission, everything is interconnected. Or, conversely, when you press the gas pedal slightly, the car accelerates sharply.
3. Increased fuel consumption - appears immediately after the sensor malfunctions.
4. When shifting to a higher or lower gear, including neutral, the engine stalls.
5. The machine switches to emergency mode, the crankshaft rotation speed does not exceed 1500 rpm, since the damper in this mode is only slightly open by 6-7%.

The same signs indicate a malfunction of the throttle valve, the condition of which is important to periodically check and, if necessary, clean.

Characteristic symptoms of a malfunctioning TPS condition

Thanks to the correct functioning of the throttle position sensor, the fuel system of the VAZ-2110 car engine works with a smoothing effect. That is, the vehicle moves smoothly, and the gas pedal responds well to pressure. Therefore, a malfunction of the TPS can be noticed almost immediately by the following signs:

1. Poor engine starting.
2. Noticeable increase in fuel consumption.
3. The car's movements are intermittent.
4. The idle speed of the engine is noticeable when running.
5. The Check e light comes on on the dashboard
6. The car accelerates poorly due to delays in acceleration.
7. Popping sounds are heard in the intake manifold.

Of course, these signs of a faulty sensor may not all be observed at once. But even if you notice only one of the above symptoms, it is worth carrying out computer diagnostics of the vehicle at a service center.

Types of TPS

In total, there are 2 options for the sensor device, one with a mechanical drive and the other with an electric drive. Mechanical modification can be found on inexpensive versions of cars. TPS is a separate block, it consists of the following components:

1. Frame.
2. Idle speed regulator.
3. Sensor.
4. Damper.

The damper body is also connected to the vehicle's cooling system. Additional pipes are also installed in this part; they are necessary for the fuel vapor compression system, as well as for crankcase cooling.

Throttle valve

The idle speed regulator, with the throttle closed, always maintains the crankshaft rotation period at the same level. This is done when the engine warms up, or when starting other vehicle equipment. The IAC consists of a stepped electric motor and a valve; together these two elements are capable of fully adjusting the air supply at the intake.

In recent years, TPS with electric drive have become increasingly popular. The fact is that experts of this modification note that with such a sensor it is possible to achieve the greatest torque. This is achieved by using an electronic computer for control. If the car has just such a modification, then the torque will remain constantly high at different speed ranges. It is also noted that in this case, fuel consumption is significantly lower, and exhaust gases are considered less toxic.

TPS problems and their diagnosis

As you know, eternal parts for cars have not yet been invented. And the breakdown of the TPS can be foreseen; for this you need to inquire about the possible reasons for the failure of this part. Here are the main ones:

1. Abrasion of the sprayed base layer, which serves to move the slider (the result is incorrect TPS readings).
2. Failure of the movable type core (the result is deterioration of the contacts between the slider and the resistive layer).

How can you figure out problems with this sensor yourself? To do this, you can independently diagnose the operation of your diagnostics:

1. Listen to the VAZ-2110 engine idling:
2. the breakdown is obvious if you notice that its speed is in a “floating” state;
3. Quickly release the gas pedal:
4. a malfunction is present if the engine stops after this action.
5. Pick up speed:
6. There is a problem with the TPS if the car starts to move jerkily, which indicates an incorrect supply of fuel to the system.

Experts say that most often the sensor fails when the resistive track is heavily contaminated or is completely broken. To verify the opposite, you need to check the working condition of the TPS.

Procedure for replacing the sensor

To get the job done, you only need a medium sized screwdriver. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Disconnect the block with wires from the sensor.
2. Unscrew the two mounting screws.
3. Remove the sensor.
4. Replace the foam pad.
5. Install a new sensor.
6. Connect the electrical block.

Thus, replacing the TPS yourself does not pose any problem, although there is one “but”. The sensor is tested by the vehicle's on-board computer. In the event of a malfunction, the “Check engine” is turned on. So, even after installing a new TPS, the alarm will not go off. You will have to disconnect the battery terminal for 15 minutes or reset the error in another available way.

Checking the operation of the throttle position sensor

To check the TPS yourself, it is not necessary to call an auto electrician for consultation. To do this you need a multimeter or voltmeter. Next, experts offer step-by-step instructions for checking the sensor.

The first step is to turn the key in the ignition switch, take the voltage readings between the sensor slider contact and the minus. In normal condition, the indicator will be up to 0.7 V.

The second step is to turn the plastic sector and open the damper, and then take measurements again. In the normal state of the sensor, the device will show a result of 4 V.

The third step is to turn on the ignition completely (as a result of this the connector will stretch out), measure the resistance between the slider and any terminal. When rotating the sector, you must monitor the measuring device:

• when the multimeter or voltmeter needle moves smoothly, the sensor is working;
• when the needle on the meter shows sudden changes, the DPPZ is faulty.

Once the sensor is faulty, it can be adjusted or replaced. The VAZ-2110 car repair service center will tell you how to do the right thing.

Malfunctions

There are several telltale signs of trouble that may indicate that there is a problem with the throttle valve control.

• High idle speed;
• When the gear is switched off, the engine may stall;
• When the car picks up speed, the car jerks and jerks are felt;
• Acceleration dynamics deteriorate significantly;
• Floating speed occurs at idle.

It should be noted that similar symptoms may also be characteristic of the failure of other components - the idle speed control or the ignition module, for example. Therefore, you first need to check the TPS.

Checking the status of the regulator

Next, let's talk about how you can check this throttle valve sensor. The event is necessary because it allows you to understand whether all the troubles are really due to it, or whether the problems arose due to the failure of other elements of your car.

We recommend: Changing the VAZ 2110 crankshaft oil seal yourself

It’s not uncommon for novice car owners to make hasty conclusions based on the primary signs of a breakdown. This results in unnecessary repair work and costs.

To check the current status of the throttle position sensor you need to:

• Measure the voltage at the output of the slider, turning on the ignition and opening the idle contacts;
• If the test shows that the voltage is more than 0.7 volts, then the sensor has indeed failed;
• Open the damper completely. In normal condition, voltage readings should be no more than 4 volts;
• Measure the variable resistor for resistance;
• To do this, connect an ohmmeter or a multimeter in ohmmeter mode to the power supply and output;
• Slowly begin to turn the throttle;
• At the same time, monitor the readings on the device;
• If, as the damper opens, the resistance also changes slowly, then the unit is working properly.

If you find during the test that the sensor is faulty, you only need to replace it. It cannot be repaired.

The resistive layer along which the slider moves wears off over time due to friction. Because of this, the regulator begins to produce incorrect data, the characteristics of the supplied mixture change, and engine performance deteriorates.

Disabling the regulator

Replacing the throttle position sensor on a VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Welcome! Throttle position sensor - it transmits readings to the controller (ECU) about what position the throttle valve is currently in; when you press the gas, the valve opens to a larger angle (Accordingly, you need to increase the fuel supply) and therefore the controller reads this (The sensor transmits readings to it) and increases the fuel supply to the cylinders, thanks to which the engine runs normally and without interruptions, unlike if the sensor fails (There will be serious problems with the operation of the engine, one of them is that it will not run The second one won’t really work either, the car will twitch when accelerating).

Note! To replace the throttle position sensor (abbreviated TPS), stock up on: A screwdriver, as well as a special one. a device with which you can check resistance (Ohm) and Voltage (Volt), such a device can be a multi-meter or an Ohmmeter with a Voltmeter separately, in addition to this, you will also need wires with bare ends (Or so that there are alligators at the ends) and that’s all, essentially, the latest devices and the wires are only needed to check the TPS for serviceability, if you don’t need this, then you don’t even have to buy anything like that, but just a sensor and a screwdriver so you can remove it!

Where is the throttle position sensor located? It is very easy to find, just open the hood and look for the throttle assembly, when you find it, look for two sensors on the side of it, one will be installed a little lower, and the other a little higher, and this is the one above (Indicated by a red arrow in the photo below ) is located and will be the TPS, but that’s not all, there is a foam ring under the sensor (see small photo), it must be replaced with a new one and therefore when you come to the auto store, don’t forget to buy it if it’s included with the TPS didn't work for you.

When should I replace my throttle position sensor? First, let's talk about the symptoms, they are as follows: The car's fuel consumption increases, Idle Speed ​​(Idle) starts to work, I don't understand how (As a rule, it rises or just floats and the car does not work stably on it), and jerks may also appear during acceleration , the car may periodically stall while driving and, of course, “CHECK ENGINE” may light up for you (But this may not happen at all).

We’ve sorted out the symptoms, but let’s say right away that they are inherent not only to this sensor, but can also be attributed to the DPKV (They are identical there), so if your car has them, it’s simply stupid to go and buy a new DPZ right away, because the engine didn’t work as it should. it can continue to work steadily in the same way, in this case the sensor is checked for serviceability (The easiest way, in order not to bother, is to check the sensor by replacing it with an identical one, and the identical one can be removed from the same injection system of a friend, for example, or from the seller will agree to install a sensor, see if the engine’s performance will change and if it changes, then buy it), if you don’t have such a chance (Find an identical sensor), then special. the device will be needed, we don’t see the point in explaining in words how to check the sensor using a multi-meter, because it’s long, it’s better to watch the detailed video that is posted below, it shows the whole test, if something is not clear, then ask your questions using the comment form below and we will answer you as soon as we can.

Where to look for the damper sensor?

To troubleshoot, you need to know exactly where the required throttle sensor is located. The sensor is located in the engine compartment of the car; by opening the hood, you can easily find this place. The throttle valve axis connects the pipe to the direct mechanism. Reasons for concern may be:

• increasing idle speed in the heart of the engine;
• engine shut off in neutral gear;
• floating idle speed;
• failures in dynamics;
• the “Check Engine” button is activated.

Such signs may occur if one of the moving cores fails, which causes a malfunction in the engine

When inspecting, also pay attention to the condition of the coating in the slider. If the coating disappears or turns white, then this may indicate a malfunction of the engine.

There are other reasons for problems with fuel control; they can only be diagnosed with the help of special equipment, which, once you obtain it, you can handle this work yourself.

Many motorists are wondering how to check the throttle position sensor? To do this, you will need to set aside a little time and perform the following operations:

• After turning on the ignition, you need to connect a voltmeter to the mechanism to check the voltage between the slider and the minus indicator. The normal reading is 0.7 V;
• Next, you need to fully open the damper. To do this, you need to turn the plastic sector, in this area the indicator should be equal to 4 V;
• check the resistance between the slider contact and any terminal; before doing this, you must turn on the ignition and pull out the connector;
• slowly and smoothly rotate the sector, observing the voltmeter indicator, the needle should move evenly and smoothly, failures in the direction of the needle indicate a breakdown of the throttle valve.

In order to avoid breakdowns, it is necessary to select suitable throttle sensors. Film resistive throttle valves are the most commonly used. These are the sensors that are installed in factories, but they are not always suitable. A universal option is a non-contact throttle sensor; this mechanism does its job perfectly and almost never fails. The advantage of this device is that it works on magnetoresistive technology, which helps reduce the likelihood of breakdowns. Magnetic fields act on the damper axis, changing the resistance, due to which changes occur in the sensor readings. This type of throttle valve has a high price, but when you use it, you will understand that the price fully justifies the quality. The service life of such a mechanism is much longer than that of other types. By using a contactless throttle recorder, you can get rid of many problems. Modern technologies make it easier to care for a car, which is why auto mechanics advise using magnetoresistive systems to regulate the fuel supply to the engine.

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How to replace the throttle position sensor on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Removal: 1. First, simply press out the latch that holds the wire block and then disconnect the block (see photo 1), insert the key into the ignition and turn it until all the devices light up, then turn on the device, namely the Voltmeter function and from device, place the minus probe (it usually comes in black) to ground (the ground can be the car body or engine), and connect the plus probe to terminal A of the wire block (All terminals on the block are marked, look carefully) and the device should give a reading of approximately 5 Volts, but in no case less, if this is the case, then everything is in order with the wiring and most likely the sensor itself is to blame, if the voltage is less, then either the controller is faulty or there is a problem with the wiring, after the operation, turn off the ignition don’t forget, and when the wiring is checked, you can start replacing the sensor with a new one, for which unscrew the two screws that secure it to the throttle body body and then remove the sensor, under it there will be a foam ring that must be replaced.

Note! If you are going to change the sensor, do not forget to remove the minus terminal from the battery, how to do this, read the article: “Replacing the battery on VAZ cars”, point 1!

Installation: The sensor is installed in the reverse order of removal; when installing, its leads should be directed towards the engine shield. To make sure that the sensor will be installed correctly, lean it against the throttle assembly and make sure that the holes for the screws in the sensor coincide with the threaded holes in body and then fully open the throttle valve using the sector (or the gas pedal, let an assistant gently and slowly press it all the way), if everything goes well, the throttle valve will open completely and you can then tighten the sensor mounting screws until they stop.

Additional video: Visually watch the process of replacing the TPS in the video below:

Sensor check

Verification procedure:

1. Remove the chip with wires from the sensor.
2. Check for voltage on the block when the engine is running. It should be equal to 5 V.

If the voltage is normal, then you need to remove the sensor and check it. Tools for work:

1. Deep socket head on "19".
2. Ratchet or crank.
3. Multimeter.

Any multimeter, which every motorist should have in the garage, is suitable for testing.

Diagnostics

The sensor is checked by measuring its internal resistance when immersed in water of a certain temperature.

Diagnostic procedure:

1. Partially drain the coolant from the system so that when unscrewing the sensor it does not spill onto the ground. The engine must be cool.
2. Disconnect the chip with wires, if you have not done so before.
3. Using a wrench, carefully unscrew the sensor.
4. The multimeter must be set to resistance measurement mode.

The easiest way to check the sensor is to immerse it in boiling water (the temperature will obviously be 95-100 degrees, you don’t even need a thermometer). The sensor resistance at this temperature should be about 177 Ohms. If it differs greatly from this value, the element must be replaced.

Temperature, ° C	Resistance, Ohm
100	177
90	241
80	332
70	467
60	667
50	973
45	1188
40	1459
35	1802
30	2238
25	2796
20	3520
15	4450
10	5670
5	7280
0	9420

Table. Temperature values ​​and the corresponding sensor resistance.

If you don’t want to boil water, but have an accurate thermometer, you can immerse the sensor in cold or warm water. For example, at a temperature of +15 degrees, the resistance should be about 4.45 kOhm. At a temperature of +40 degrees - about 1.459 kOhm.

As befits a used car, “sores” continue to pop up on Kalina.

At the moment, the following has happened: at first the revolutions began to float at XX. You are driving - everything is fine, you stop and the speed increases on its own, I have scared more than one pedestrian at a pedestrian crossing so much, they think that I am going to go.)) This lasted for three days, then the traction began to disappear. At the beginning of the day, the dynamics worsened, Kalina began to accelerate worse, but in neutral it picked up speed well. At the end of the day, the revs stopped picking up under load, there wasn’t enough traction to pull my own weight (I got home at a speed of 5 km/h, fortunately there were 300 meters left to get home), and in neutral the revs were very reluctant to rise. At the same time, everyone’s check did not burn.

The next day the situation is like this (I didn’t drive the car, I just started it to shoot a video): the engine starts only if the gas pedal is pressed halfway. The engine does not listen to the gas pedal at all, the speed did not reach the 500 rpm mark, if the pedal is released, the engine stalls. Next video, I didn’t voice it, but in it I try to press the gas pedal in different ways, the reaction to this is zero.

Personally, I began to sin on TPS and IAC, but since I had not yet gained enough experience with injection engines, my guesses had to be checked somehow. I decided to do this by checking the voltage.

Let me remind you that I have no knowledge in the field of electronics, I even had to watch video tutorials to understand how to use a multimeter. But there is a desire to delve into everything myself.)))

Before measuring the voltage on the sensors, I checked the error of the multimeter (turned on the resistance mode at 200 Ohms and shorted the two probes together). The error is zero, you don’t have to subtract anything. Next, I removed the protection from the block on the mass air flow sensor and measured the voltage between the first and third contacts (reading from the windshield). The colors of the wires may be different, but the location is always the same.

The multimeter showed a voltage of 1.08V. The operating range of the mass air flow sensor is from 0.96V to 1.04V. Based on these data, then my mass air flow sensor is dead. (Oh, I got about 2000 rubles)

Next I check the TPS.

To check the voltage from the ECU to the TPS, we measure the voltage between the green and white-black wires. It should be 5V, mine is 4.98V. I consider it the norm. Next, we measure the voltage between the green and yellow-blue wires. In a calm state, 0.47V, turn the flag, the voltage gradually increases. Peak 3.99V. It should be below 0.7V when the throttle is closed, and more than 4V when fully open. In my opinion, everything is within normal limits, there is a deviation, but it is small. I was unable to measure the resistance at the TPS. I also didn’t check the IAC, since I need to remove the throttle assembly, and I didn’t have time for that.

The next step is to turn off the chips from the sensors one by one. When the mass air flow sensor was turned off, there was no noticeable reaction in the engine operation, nor did the air pressure sensor; with the IAC switched off and after connecting it back, the engine operation changed slightly: it still starts the same only when the gas pedal is pressed halfway. There is still no XX, when you press the gas pedal fully, after 1-3 seconds the revolutions begin to rise. But for some reason the tachometer needle began to “fall off”.

Everything is clear with the DMRV and IAC errors, I turned them off, but I did not touch the phase sensor. I'll try to check it, replace it, also check the marks, remove the throttle assembly and check the IAC.

TPS - The throttle position sensor is a fairly simple device. Regardless of the car model, all TPS have a common structure and properties. It is connected with three wires and is located after the air intake on the throttle valve. Let's consider such a sensor using the example of a VAZ car. I'll show you how to test your throttle position sensor using a multimeter. How to identify a malfunction of the TPS, what the TPS affects in the operation of the car, how to replace it and where to be located.

Throttle position sensor VAZ 2112

The sensor itself is a potentiometer (+5V is supplied to one end, and the other goes to ground. The third pin (from the slider) goes the output signal to the controller). When there is an impact on the accelerator pedal, the throttle valve rotates and the voltage at the TPS output changes (it is 4V when the throttle is closed). Thus, the controller monitors the TPS output voltage and adjusts the fuel supply depending on the throttle opening angle.

How to check

To check the throttle position sensor, we will need the following tools: a multimeter (ohmmeter, voltmeter), pieces of wire.

Having opened the hood, we find the sensor we need (we look for it on the throttle assembly next to the IAC).

Disconnect the wire block from the sensor

Take a multimeter and set it to voltmeter mode. Volts negative terminal (on the engine). We connect the positive terminal of the voltmeter to the sensor wire block to terminal “A” (the pin numbering is indicated on this wire block)

Turn on the ignition and check the voltage: the voltmeter should show a voltage of around 5 volts. If the voltage is not supplied, or it is much lower than 5 volts, then the problem is either an open circuit or a malfunction in the electronic engine control system (in the brains). But if the voltage is normal, then, accordingly, the TPS is faulty.

Conclusion: If the sensor is faulty, then there are two options to solve the problem:

1) Repair the sensor (How to repair the TPS?). Most often it is easier to replace the sensor with a new one, because The cause of failure is most often normal wear of the part.

2) Replace the sensor with a new one

The speed sensor on the link does not work.

Main set of sensors for 16-valve VAZ-2112 engines

The ECU must control many parameters at once. The most important information will be the position of the crankshaft. You can turn off all sensors except the DPKV, and this will not lead to the engine stopping.

Sensors connected to the ECU

Let's list all the elements one by one:

• 15 – DTOZH. A resistor screwed into the thermostat housing. The temperature of the antifreeze is determined;
• 17 – DPRV, also known as DF (phase sensor). The operating principle is the Hall effect. The position of the camshaft is controlled. Check it out here.;
• 20 – TPS. Resistor fixed to the throttle assembly 19. The angle of deflection of the throttle valve is measured;
• 21 – Mass air flow sensor. Sensor connected to the filter housing. Controls air flow; the main signs of its malfunction are discussed here;
• 22 – IAC. Not a sensor, but a regulator (electromagnet). Used in idle mode. About its testing and diagnostics here. About replacing the IAC here.;
• 24 – lambda probe or oxygen sensor (see above);
• 25 – speed sensor. Fixed in the gearbox slot. Operating principle – Hall effect;
• 26 – DPKV. Electromagnetic sensor. The position of the crankshaft is controlled;
• 27 – DD (knock sensor). A piezoelectric element mounted on the outer wall of the cylinder block.

Let's take a look at how all the elements look in real life. Shown are pictures of VAZ-2112 sensors (16-valve internal combustion engine).

Each element will be easy to find under the hood

Everything said above is true for two engines at once - for units 21124 and 21120 (1.6 and 1.5 l).

You cannot unscrew the DTOZH sensor without draining the coolant. And to disconnect the sensor means to disconnect the connector, but not to dismantle the sensor itself.

Where is which sensor located - engine compartment diagram

Let's look at another picture.

Replacement and selection of sensor - non-contact or film?

If the element fails, then its complete replacement will most likely save the situation. One of the important points of this stage is the correct choice of a new device. Of course, if you do not want to carry out all the operations again in a short period of time, then you should give preference only to high-quality products, and even more so avoid cheap Chinese counterfeits. In addition, do not stop your choice on film-resistive models. They are short-lived, and such savings can cost you a pretty penny. But contactless throttle position sensors are more reliable. They only cost a few dollars.

Non-contact TPS

The film model has resistive tracks, while the non-contact model works on the principle of the magnetic effect. Its components are a stator, a rotor and a magnet. On the first, the magnetic field has a huge impact. The material of the second one is chosen such that the magnet does not have any influence on it. The distance between the TPS elements does not change and is selected at the assembly stage. Needless to say, the contactless sensor cannot be repaired.

The replacement itself will take you much less time than choosing a device. But despite the fact that the process is quite simple, let’s consider it in detail. We prepare a Phillips screwdriver, an O-ring for the throttle pipe and, of course, the part itself. The replacement begins by turning off the ignition if the car has been started. Open the hood and do not forget to disconnect the battery. To do this, remove the negative terminal.

Installation of TPS

Now we find the sensor on the throttle pipe and remove the block with wires from it; most likely you will have to press out the special plastic latch. Then unscrew the mounting bolts and dismantle the device. There is a foam ring between the TPS and the pipe, and it definitely needs to be replaced. And only after this can the sensor itself be installed. Fix the device firmly with bolts, otherwise the vibration will not do it any good and will cause failure. Reconnect the block with all the wires. Sometimes people forget to disconnect the battery; in this case, it is necessary to de-energize it for at least five minutes after installing the new device and connecting the plug to it.

You can check whether the element is working correctly as follows. Open the damper and pull the throttle cables to turn the TPS drive sector. If the position of the sector does not change, then the sensor should be installed again. At the same time, we rotate it 90 degrees relative to the damper axis. And finally, check the voltage with a tester; if its values ​​coincide with those indicated above, then the device is working.

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Adjustment in your garage

Even a novice car enthusiast can adjust the throttle position sensors; the main thing is to strictly follow the instructions given below. Moreover, this operation does not depend on the operating principle of the TPS – non-contact or not. So, first we carry out the preparatory work. We disconnect the corrugated tube through which air passes and thoroughly rinse it with alcohol, gasoline or another strong solvent. But one liquid is not always enough; to achieve a better effect, you should also wipe the tube with a soft cloth. We carry out the same operation with the damper itself and with the intake manifold. In addition, do not forget to carry out visual inspection, especially for the damper.

Operating principle of TPS

So, no mechanical damage was detected? Then we proceed directly to adjusting the throttle position sensor. First, take the key and loosen the screws. Then we raise the damper and sharply lower it all the way, keep in mind that you should hear a blow, otherwise repeat the operation again. Loosen the screws until the part stops “biting.” And only then can the position of the fasteners be secured with nuts. Next, unscrew the bolted connections of the TPS and rotate the device body. Next, we set the throttle position sensor so that the voltage changes only when the valve opens. The setup is complete, all that remains is to return everything to its place, tighten the bolts and enjoy driving your favorite car.

How to check?

You can check the serviceability of the sensor using 3 devices:

• diagnostic scanner;
• motor tester;
• multimeter.

Checking with a diagnostic scanner

We connect the scanner to the car and find the parameters in the program. In the parameters we find the throttle sensor readings. The scanner can display data from the sensor, both in volts and as a percentage. If in volts, then we look at the values ​​within 5 V.

IMPORTANT! The scanner will display values ​​from 0.3 to 4.7. This is done so that the control unit understands that the sensor is working. If there is “0” volts, then an error will appear - “sensor break”. If “5” volts, the damper is completely open or there is a short circuit.

If in percentage, then we look at the percentage of the damper opening from 0 to 100%. If everything is in order, then on the scanner when the damper is opened we will see percentages: 0%, 2%, 3%, etc.

If we see the values: 0%, 20%, 0%, 15%, 3%, 4%, 20%, etc. - this indicates wear of the resistive layer.

Checking the throttle sensor using the Launch scanner as a percentage. On the left are digital values, on the left in graphical form.

Motortester

To check the throttle sensor with a motor tester, you need to connect to the signal wire of the sensor and to the negative wire. Then we begin to open the damper. What should we see? If everything is good, then we will see the following waveform:

Oscillogram of a working sensor

If the resistive track is worn out, then the oscillogram will look like this:

Oscillogram of a faulty sensor

Noise at the beginning of the resistive trace is the first sign of wear.

Multimeter

When checking the throttle sensor with a multimeter, check the voltage between the positive and negative wires. The engine must be running at the same time. The measurement values ​​should be about 5 volts.

The next step is to measure the resistance between the sensor signal wire and the negative wire. In this case, the ignition is turned off completely, and the multimeter is set to measure resistance.

In the closed position of the throttle valve, the multimeter should display values ​​from 0.8 to 1.2 kOhm, and in the open position from 2.3 to 2.7 kOhm.

Common causes of malfunction

Having talked a little about the device, you can understand that the main and most common breakdown of the sensor is wear of the resistive layer. Over time, the coating of the layer wears off, and then problems with the sensor appear.

Moreover, wear most often occurs at the beginning of the resistive track, since frequent movement of contacts occurs there (the car begins to move).

Wear of the resistive layer of the sensor track

Dirt on the working surface of the sensor can also cause a malfunction.

Less often you can stumble upon breakdowns in the operation of the sensor itself. This is a failure of the mechanical part of the moving unit, and a malfunction of the electronic magnetic signal converter.