Priora clutch 16 valves Valeo how to distinguish a fake

Which clutch kit for Lada Granta, Kalina, Priora is better to choose

Depending on the year of manufacture and place of production, clutch kits from different manufacturers may be installed on LADA Granta, Kalina and Priora cars from the factory. The article presents the article numbers of these parts. At the end of the article there is a survey in which we determine the best clutch kit, and in the comments we leave reviews about the original parts and analogues.

• 21703160113000 "EVR" LLC, Tolyatti for VAZ 11186 engines
• 21703160113010 for VAZ 21116 and VAZ 21126 engines
• 21703160113030 (8450001037), Lada Holding GMBH Vienna (until 02.2018)
• 21703160113031 (8450100737), Valeo (from 02.2018 to 09.2019)
• 21703160113032 Valeo
• 21703160113033 (8450079153) Valeo
• 21703160113090 "TD OAT" JSC Tolyatti

• 21703160108500 "EVR" LLC Tolyatti (with pressure spring assembly) for VAZ 11186 engines
• 21703160108510 for VAZ 21116 and VAZ 21126 engines
• 21703160108530 (8450001036), Lada Holding GMBH Vienna
• 21703160108590 "TD OAT" JSC Tolyatti (with pressure spring assembly)

Clutch release

:

• 21810160118001 (8450003303), Lada Holding GMBH Vienna
• 21810160118081 "VPK" CJSC Vologda

• Valeo 8450108936 and 21703160100001 (with VPZ coupling)
• "EVR" 21810160100000 and 21703160100000
• Luk 620331900
• Sachs (old 3000951033, new 3000950097)

The items are suitable for LADA cars with a 1.6 liter VAZ engine. and VAZ transmission (manual transmission, AMT or robot).

What brand of clutch do you recommend? How long did it take to replace the factory clutch?

Source

Clutch operating principle

Let's start looking at the principles of operation with the most common option today - a dry clutch. Or single-disc. It works on the principle of compressing several elements of the car - the pressing surface, disc linings and flywheel. The device uses special springs that press the above parts of the car against each other. Thanks to this, the clutch receives the torque shaft after the torque is transmitted to the latter from the clutch disk. After pressing, the drive system is activated: the bearing begins to press on the release pipes, and the surface is separated from the specialized disc (clutch).

After the above processes, the input shaft stops. Even though the engine is still running. There is also a double-disc version. Its only difference is that there are two working surfaces. Accordingly, there are also two disks. At the same time, their work scheme is similar.

How to distinguish an original from a fake?

The products of this brand are popular among consumers, which has led to the fact that many underground companies have learned to counterfeit original Valeo clutches. It is not so easy to check and identify fake brake discs and other Russian or Korean-made Valeo auto parts from the originals.

In order to correctly recognize counterfeit products from original products, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the list of differences:

1. If you put a fake on your car, you will immediately feel it, because the original Valeo clutches function much smoother than the fake ones. They are more reliable and can operate in high temperature conditions.
2. When purchasing, check who produces the spare parts. The original clutches are made in France. If the manufacturer is Korea, Russia, China or European countries, but not France, then this is a fake.
3. All original spare parts supplied to our market are sealed in plastic bags. Directly in the package there is another bag in which you will see a lubricant used to process the splines. There is no such fluid included with the fake clutch.
4. The package of original products includes a disk with detailed installation and operating instructions. Such discs are not included in the set of fake spare parts.
5. Reviews from experts show that fakes are characterized by a shiny surface. This is done in order to confuse the consumer. Manufacturers of counterfeits are confident that the brighter and shiny their parts are, the more it attracts buyers.
6. When purchasing, pay attention to the cost. On average, the price of original spare parts varies around 2300-2800 rubles. Clutches that cost significantly less are fake, unless we are talking about some kind of promotion.
7. In many fake parts, the geometry of the clutch disc is different.
8. Before purchasing, pay attention to the labels. The Valeo company applies a strict font to its products. If this is a fake, then the inscriptions can be written in words. Often in fake clutches the numbers and product names are blurry.
9. On fake Valeo clutches, the product name and number are indicated on the damper. In the originals, this information is applied to the friction linings.
10. In some fakes, the springs may be painted in different colors.

Do-it-yourself Lada Granta clutch adjustment: video instructions

Lada Granta is one of the most popular cars in Russia made after 2010. The advantage of a car is its affordable price, which is a decisive factor for the majority of residents of our country. In addition, Granta is quite cheap to maintain, unpretentious and reliable, which many other AvtoVAZ models cannot boast of. Granta is considered one of the most successful VAZ models in the recent history of the manufacturer.

However, any car needs care, and the Lada Granta will be no exception. The clutch is a system that requires increased attention in any car. However, sooner or later problems also happen to him. In this case, you will need to replace the cable or simply re-adjust the clutch on the Lada Granta. Today we’ll talk about the design features of the car, and also look at some methods that will help you solve the problem yourself.

Features of clutch on Grant

Unlike older models, the VAZ-2190 is equipped with an automatic clutch adjustment system. This unit is monitored by a special sensor, so car enthusiasts have much less hassle. If you hear all kinds of clicks from the machine, then the system is working. However, the system is not always effective. In particular, it will not help you in the following cases:

1. If the pedal fails.
2. If the clutch is not fully depressed.

Driven disk

The driven disk is made quite well. We won’t be too picky about whether they make them specifically for Russia or not, a certain quality is evident. The bushing is also made of some kind of yellow, noble metal. The splines or teeth are not bad. Some number is stamped on the hardware, and the symbol is VA – Valeo. The metal-plastic-metal transitions are also quite good, the green plugs are solid.

There are certain alignments on the rivets. The alignment, the VA symbol, is quite nice and even. The Valeo inscription is embossed quite well, with a double line, without any confusion. The springs do not dangle, do not rattle, or move up and down. A small backlash is allowed. If you shake it, nothing rattles, nothing buzzes.

Finding the reason

One of the owners of a Lada Kalina (VAZ 11194) decided to check where there was such noise from the transmission in the cabin. With the help of spot wiretapping, he was able to find out that some of the vibrations from the gearbox are transmitted to the cabin through the clutch cable. This was confirmed by a simple experiment:

1. raised the front wheels
2. turned on first speed
3. raised the speed to 4500-5000 rpm
4. Reduced the speed to 1500 rpm using the brake pedal without releasing the gas pedal

Then, the same thing was done with the clutch cable disconnected from the gearbox fork. The familiar sound of “hrrrrr.” "disappeared. The sounds were recorded in an mp3 file (before the pause - with a cable, after - without it). Site users can download the file:

To download files you need to log in to the site.

Conclusion : the clutch cable is a transmitter of vibrations from the gearbox fork.

A similar situation may occur on Lada Grant and Priora cars.

Preparation for repair

To remove and subsequently replace the clutch, prepare a set of tools consisting of:

• center punch;
• extension cord;
• funnels;
• heads (8, 10, 15, 17, 19 and 30 mm);
• high head (13 mm);
• heads Torx E12 and Torx E14;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• curved spanners (8 and 13 mm);
• straight spanners (17 and 19 mm);
• two adjustable stops;
• metal brush;
• ratchet wrench;
• caliper;
• stands;
• hammer;
• jack;
• balloon wrench;
• torque wrench;
• centering mandrel.

In addition, you will need to apply certain parts and consumables. So, you will need CV joint-4 lubricant, a guide pin M12×1.25 mm, transmission oil, wood blocks, a technical container, a hose, rags and the clutch itself.

Finalization

Purpose: install a gasket between the clutch cable and the gearbox fork

Procedure:

1. Remove the clutch cable end from the fork.
2. Unscrew the cable end, having previously measured the length of the free threads.
3. Remove the clutch cable boot.
4. Remove the rubber insert from the cable stop (photo No. 1).
5. Instead, install a round washer made of porous rubber (diameter 32-35 mm, hole 12-13 mm) (photo 2).

1. Cut a piece of rubber measuring 20x70 mm, 2.5-3 mm thick.
2. Glue it (for example, with “Moment” glue) to the plastic cable stop (one turn), secure with electrical tape 1.5 turns.

1. Insert the cable into the bracket on the gearbox and put on the boot.
2. Screw on the tip, leaving a couple of millimeters less free threads on the stud (since the new gasket is thicker than the factory part).
3. Place a 2 mm foam rubber spacer between the cable tip and the fork lever.
4. Adjust the clutch pedal.

As a result: the effect was noticeable immediately. Now the rattling can only be heard with the windows open. After modifying the clutch cable fastening, the car drove more than 15 thousand km, the gearbox noise was within normal limits. Increased vibrations and noise are noticed only at a temperature of -20 o C, when the rubber gaskets become hard. The author has posted sound files (engine acceleration-braking mode at 1500-2000 rpm in 3rd gear), which shows what the noise was from the gearbox before and after modification. Site users can download the file:

Release bearing wear

Release bearing wear manifests itself as follows.

When you press the clutch pedal, you hear a loud buzzing noise. The mechanism begins to function and puts a load on the deformed bearing, hence the sound.

In addition, another indicator is also the strange vibrations that appear the moment the car starts moving. The release valve is replaced as necessary.

Hydraulically operated release bearings have some other problems. The clutch pedal becomes very soft and it stops working, and brake fluid leaks out. And the clutch also stops working. A working clutch works as follows: torque is transmitted very smoothly. The car behaves smoothly on the road, without jerking or slipping. There are no unnecessary sounds when changing speeds. The pedal is easy to press and the car does not make any strange sounds.

general review

Boxes should be light green or light green . The quality of the boxes itself is not very good. A label with the number of this clutch is attached to your car. And pay attention, it says Made in France, that is, made in France. In fact, there is also an accompanying sticker where the support service is written, and it says that it was made in France.

The clutch is packaged in shrink film, which you cannot open when you look at the clutch. And the hardest part is that the bottom of this kit is glued to the box. Therefore, it will be difficult for you to tear it off. This is bad because a person must look to see if it is the clutch and whether it should be taken.

Fork

A tight pedal motion can also occur if this element needs to be lubricated. A characteristic sign of problems associated with the plug is that an unpleasant creaking noise is constantly heard during operation of the unit.

In order to solve the problem, you must first remove the entire air filter along with the housing. After this, the plastic bushing of the fork is carefully pryed off, and silicone grease is sprayed under it. You can also use the popular WD40.

Certificates

There is also a certificate. And here it is written that the manufacturer of the product is Valeo, location is France, meets certain requirements, seals, and we see in the application this clutch, this modification, it fits this certificate.

This clutch is from a good manufacturer and is not counterfeit. The only negative is why Valeo doesn’t make beautiful boxes with spacers, like the Korean factory.

But the most important thing is that this is a product of proper quality.

Clutch basket

The clutch basket is considered one of the strongest parts of this system. It can withstand loads several times greater than other parts. Although we do not advise you to experiment with it - it tends to overheat. And this is fraught with particle explosions, which in the future can damage not only the car body, but also its engine.

In general, the clutch system is considered very reliable and inexpensive. It can be changed very rarely, since it is considered quite hardy. However, this endurance depends on many factors. Including location and driving style. If you like aggressive driving and high speed, then, of course, your clutch will wear out much faster than, say, a driver who prefers not to accelerate and drive at average speed.

The car needs regular maintenance. One common problem is a faulty clutch. To detect it, it is necessary not only to conduct a visual inspection, but also to listen to the operation of the machine. A situation may arise that the car will completely stop moving, while the engine will work properly.

Original Valeo clutch: how to spot a fake

The main task of the clutch is to disconnect the transmission from the power unit. This must be done when changing gear or when stopping. The more reliable and better the clutch is, the longer the car will stay on the move and the more comfortable the car will be. In this article we will tell you what a Valeo clutch is and how to distinguish a fake from an original device.

How to distinguish an original from a fake?

Video “What mistakes should not be made when installing the clutch”

Scheduled replacement after a certain mileage or service life

The service life of the clutch depends on the conditions in which it is operated. The clutch life depends not only on the quality of the parts, but also on the driving style. Participation in racing, abrupt starts from a standstill at high speeds and incorrect clutch adjustment have a detrimental effect on its performance.

If you follow all the rules, then a planned replacement will need to be carried out after 100 thousand km. mileage If you violate the basic operating rules, then replacement will have to be carried out after 50 thousand km.

Signs of clutch problems will be noticeable while the vehicle is in use. The exact location of the breakdown can be determined after diagnostics. If you carry out scheduled repairs and replacements in a timely manner, you can avoid serious damage, the elimination of which requires large financial investments.

Good day, dear car enthusiasts! Each of us is always concerned about how long this or that part or car system will last. It `s naturally. Especially considering the quality of some products, the “skills” of workers, etc.

This issue fully concerns the car’s clutch. Very often on motorist forums there is a serious question about when to change the clutch, and how to know when the time has come to replace it. So let’s try to figure out together what the actual service life of the clutch is, and whether it exists at all.

Is there a certain clutch resource?

Whether or not you will be upset when you find out that the manufacturer does not indicate specific figures for clutch service life. If, for example, in the brake system, it is clearly stated that the thickness of the brake disc should be such and such, then why is this not applicable to the clutch?

The fact is that clutch wear depends on many reasons, and first of all, of course, on how the driver changes gears and in what mode the clutch is used.

And while clutch disc thickness cannot be measured the same way brake disc thickness can be measured with a caliper, there are ways to measure it. There are two of them.

• The first way to measure the thickness of the clutch disc is with a special measuring gauge. This method does not require dismantling the clutch; it is performed on a lift. But you are unlikely to use it.
• the second method is simpler to implement and allows you to determine the wear of the clutch disc in order to replace it. Replacing the driven disk is a procedure provided by the manufacturer, because The driven disk is a consumable part. The check is carried out as follows: with the engine running, you need to put it in high gear, accelerate it, and if the car does not stall, this means that the driven disk is worn out and requires replacement. It must be remembered that such a check of the thickness of the clutch disc is not technologically correct, but it is effective and allows you to determine the condition of the disc extremely accurately.

What kind of clutch should I put on the viburnum?

The most popular clutch kits from companies: Valeo, Sachs, Luk, VIS, Kraft.
It is worth noting that the Valeo and Luke clutches are softer than the others. Is it possible to install a clutch from a VAZ 2110 on Kalina? The clutch must be installed in accordance with the flywheel; the type of flywheel is determined by the starter studs. Two studs - clutch 2110, 2112, 11183, three studs - clutch 2108. If the flywheel is 2110, then you can install a clutch from a VAZ 2110, 2112 or the original Kalinovskoe 11183.

To buy an original clutch for Kalina , and not a fake, it is recommended to contact trusted stores, rely on reviews, or order a clutch kit online directly from the manufacturer. Which clutch kit for Kalina do you think is the best?

Hello everyone, I wanted to share my bitter experience and help those who are faced with the choice of which clutch to buy and install because... There is always a choice, but the clutch itself and its replacement are not that cheap. I'll start with some background. That year, around the same time, I started having problems shifting gears, and it became clear that the clutch was coming to an end. I started browsing our favorite website DRIVE2, reading reviews from owners (who praised which clutch), looking for which clutch is the best, or at least one that won’t break down in the near future. I also wanted the clutch pedal not to be as hard as it is at the moment. After reading the reviews of the owners, it was decided to order a LUK clutch for the VAZ 1118; I didn’t write anything about the replacement in the BZ because I was in another city and time was running out. Now the long-awaited moment of replacement has come, when I removed the box, it was discovered that I had a clutch from a VAZ 2108. This problem was solved by delivering my ordered LUK clutch from Kalina 1118 to the store, the store owner (a fucking huckster) kindly agreed to exchange it for a LUK from 2108, with my additional payment of 400 rubles. Okay, let's move on, and having installed the new clutch, everything suited me, the pedal became soft, the gears started to engage perfectly, in general, I was pleased with this replacement. But my joy did not last long, after leaving the winter, this year, around spring, some kind of hum appeared in the area of ​​​​the gearbox (well, I thought something like this, it seems that I recently changed the entire clutch assembly, how can the release valve be covered so quickly?) it struck. I started driving it further, driving it for some more time, about 2-3 weeks ago I started to experience crunching noises when engaging reverse gear, I took the car to a service center for a verdict. As expected, I was told the clutch was gone and needed to be replaced. In order to stay on the wheels, I asked to tighten the clutch a little. I called a friend and ordered a VALEO clutch, this time from 2108, because... I knew what kind of clutch I had installed from the factory

, and after about 3, it was lying in my trunk and waiting in the wings. I called the Oil Market, found out the price for replacing the clutch, the price tag was announced at 2,500 rubles, the toad was strangled, I started looking for something cheaper. I found an old friend who works in the service, he told me the price of 2200 rubles. I thought if I would come to him as a replacement. Just yesterday I passed by another service, I think I’ll stop by and find out how much it will cost them to do this work, and I was very surprised when they told me a price tag of 1,500 rubles. (if anyone is interested in where the service is located, write in a personal message, I will always answer so as not to advertise). I signed up for a replacement on 07/12/2016 at 10:00. Today I arrived for a replacement, the guys began to disassemble the car, while I took out my brand new clutch and began to examine it for a possible hack.