Sooner or later, any, even the most reliable and simple part in a car, wears out and requires replacement. First of all, this concerns technological and complex design elements. The VAZ-2110 heater radiator is just such an element of the interior cooling and heating system. If we have a copper radiator installed that is not standard, it can be successfully repaired and installed back. Regular DAAZ aluminum radiators, unfortunately, cannot be repaired. Therefore, today we will replace two heater radiators at once on the tenth family - the old and new models.
When and what kind of heater radiator was installed on the VAZ-2110
- Until mid-2003, the entire tenth VAZ family was equipped with DAAZ aluminum radiators with catalog number 2110-8101050.
- After 2003, radiators of an improved design began to be installed on the 2110. Its article number is 2110-81010160-00.
Old style radiator.
New sample radiator.
Prices
The price of a native DAAZ radiator should not exceed a thousand rubles. Radiators will sell for about the same money:
- Luzar;
- Kraft;
- Pramo LRZ;
- Bautler;
- Finord and a number of other manufacturers.
These are all aluminum heat exchangers, so their prices are not too high.
Aluminum or copper?
A copper radiator will cost more, but it's worth it.
A good copper radiator will cost approximately twice as much, but it is worth it : firstly, the heat transfer of copper is higher, secondly, a copper radiator has high thermal inertia (it takes a long time to heat up, but cools down slowly), thirdly, in case of damage, a copper radiator you can easily restore, clean, replace damaged elements and it will be much cheaper than replacing the entire stove radiator with a new one.
And copper is practically not subject to corrosion , if we talk about the life of the car. If we have made a choice, we assemble the tool, diagnose the heating system and replace the radiator on the VAZ-2110.
Fault diagnosis
Before starting repairs, the defective unit is identified.
The inability to regulate the temperature of the cabin air calls for checking the dampers, control unit, and temperature sensor.
- Turn on the heating.
- Evaluate the heat of the forced air flow with your hand.
- Set the maximum value. If heat is supplied only at maximum, the sensor requires replacement.
The next step is to prevent the damper covered by the central deflectors. The standard plastic curtain becomes deformed and freezes. It is logical to install an aluminum damper.
A flow of exceptionally cold air raises the suspicion that the stove is broken. Statistics show that in nine cases out of ten, the gearmotor installed under the facing frame is to blame; it’s time to replace it. The design of VAZ 2110 gearmotors has significant differences, depending on the year of manufacture. A battery connected directly to the gear motor will help you check this element.
The noisy operation of the heating unit is annoying. The most reasonable solution is maintenance of the entire unit:
- cleaning and lubrication of the electric motor;
- applying lubricant to rubbing parts;
- replacing worn washers, use fluoroplastic washers;
- tightening fasteners.
If the antifreeze periodically leaves without obvious drips, the clamps are tightened, the fittings are dry, the pipes are intact, the windows are covered with an oily film, the radiator of the VAZ 2110 stove needs to be replaced. Before starting repairs, it is worth studying the range of heaters.
When to change the radiator?
A heater radiator leak is an indisputable failure; it is immediately noticeable, if not by traces of antifreeze under the car, then by a drop in the liquid level in the expansion tank.
It is much more difficult when there seem to be no leaks, but at the same time, the radiator does not heat even at a high antifreeze temperature. In this case, the reason for the drop in heater temperature may be either a clogged or coked radiator, or a number of other reasons:
- air lock in the cooling system;
- non-working thermostat;
- breakdown in the hot air distribution system;
- air leakage through leaks in air ducts (this is a proprietary disease of the entire tenth family);
- low level of antifreeze in the expansion tank.
Antifreeze leaks under the radiator are a clear reason to look for a leak.
Heating system diagnostics
In short, before buying a new radiator or removing an old copper one for repair, you need to check the entire cooling system in detail so as not to throw money away.
By the way, about money and wind - at the service station they will ask for at least 2 thousand rubles to replace the heater radiator. Therefore, it is cheaper to do all the work of replacing the heater core yourself.
Symptoms of malfunction
Content
A vigilant vehicle owner, while driving or performing periodic inspections, will be interested in the unusual behavior of heating devices.
- Poor supply, uneven heat distribution inside the machine.
- The appearance of extraneous sounds when the heating is turned on.
- Fogging of glass covered with an oily film. Rubbing is useless.
- Visual presence of traces of fluid other than brake fluid, fuel, or lubricant.
- Unsatisfactory functioning of automatic heating control (AHC).
- Reduced coolant level. There are no visible areas of damage.
Reassembly Features
Dismantling and replacing a radiator is a rather painstaking process that requires special concentration. Therefore, we recommend paying special attention to some nuances:
- During the process of reinstalling the plastic fan casing, working with an outdated model stove, it is necessary to check that the pedal fits exactly into the groove. Because if there is no tight fit, then there is a possibility that the damper will not work properly. Which will lead to emergency repairs.
- A fairly significant number of different bolts and fasteners will be needed in order to disassemble the stove. You should make sure that not a single fastener element remains and that all bolts are returned to their original places.
- We also recommend replacing the plastic damper with a metal one, if possible. The advantage of a metal damper is that it is more durable and there is less risk of jamming when using it.
- When completely replacing the radiator, it is better to give preference to a copper product. Although its cost is higher, it will serve more conscientiously. In addition, much more heat comes from a copper radiator. For people living in cold regions of our country, this issue is especially relevant.
- Rubber elements are not durable and have a limited shelf life. Therefore, we strongly advise you to pay attention to this during the repair and replace the hoses and clamps used on the previous equipment. This will allow you to avoid extraordinary repairs and save you from quite complex stove repairs. Therefore, take the trouble and devote a couple of minutes of your time to this issue.
The independent dismantling process takes several hours, so we recommend setting up for it in advance.
And for those new to this business, repairs may take even longer. But the advantage of dismantling it yourself is that you will save significantly on the help of service station specialists. In addition, you will gain vast experience and learn how to disassemble and assemble one of the most difficult components of the VAZ 2110.
We buy a replacement
- Radiator;
- Pipes;
- Antifreeze.
We clean everything and start reassembling in reverse order.
Another way to quickly change a stove radiator without any effort. Less cost and effort.
- remove the air corrugation;
- wipers;
- frill (you don’t have to unscrew it all the way up; you should also pay attention to the washer hoses; they can also be moved to the side for a while by unscrewing only one side);
- remove the expansion tank.
Changing the radiator by removing the vacuum expander is very simple and elementary.
We don’t touch the brake system yet, leave it clean. We unscrew the vacuum expander; it is secured with two bolts. Remove the vacuum hose. Next, remove four bolts from the interior.
Dismantling procedure
To remove the VAZ 2110 heater, you must:
- Disconnect the minus on the battery;
- Free the windshield frame from the cladding, sound insulation upholstery, lining;
- Remove the stove fan;
- Disconnect the vacuum hose;
- It’s good if you get creative and remove the front air intake housing, which is not at all easy to do. If you can't get to its screws, you may have to remove the dashboard. After that, the screws securing the heater are unscrewed, it rises, and it becomes possible to remove the air intake housing;
- Separate the hoses from the fittings;
- Remove the rear heater casing;
- After unscrewing the heater mounting screws (you can easily find three of them, and the fourth is under the soundproofing upholstery on the left), remove the heater, moving it towards the engine.
Device
Any radiator on a car, regardless of its brand, consists of:
- Two halves (body);
- Patrubkov;
- Cores;
- Filler plug in the upper part of the radiator, equipped with valves (one is inlet, the other is outlet);
- Drain tap, in the lower half of the body.
The body, which can often be made of aluminum, less often copper, consists of two tanks (one on top, the other on the bottom) and adjacent pipes through which the coolant circulates.
The core is rows of brass tubes soldered to cooling fins. They are located inside the case.
Cooling liquid enters the radiator through the filler plug and is drained through the drain valve, if necessary.
In addition, the power unit for maintaining thermal conditions includes an electric fan and a thermostat.
What to install?
Heating radiators used for the VAZ 2110 are usually divided into two types:
Until the fall of 2003, old radiators were installed on the “tenth” model, and then cars with new units began to be offered. There is practically no difference between them, but the repair differs in approach and complexity.
If you don’t want to spend that kind of money, but want to get an effective device with high quality indicators, then choose the DAAZ model. This radiator is made of aluminum, works well, and the price does not exceed 1000 rubles.
New sample stove
The new heater has its own peculiarities in its attachment to the body. To remove, you need to unscrew:
- Middle screw at the bottom of the windshield;
- Two nuts located above the intake manifold;
- Nut near the filter on the left;
- In addition, if there is a reservoir with washer fluid for the rear window (on VAZ 2112/2111 models), you need to remove it too. And also an air filter.
The peculiarity of the new heater is that it is disconnected. In principle, this is not difficult to do. And then change the heating radiator.
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- Old style heater (until September 2003)
- New model heater (after September 2003)
What do you need for work?
First of all, you will need a new heater radiator. The choice is presented in a fairly wide range, so decide for yourself here.
As for tools and materials, be sure to check the condition of the system pipes. It is possible that they are also damaged, so they will have to be replaced.
Tools include a short Phillips screwdriver and tweezers . The latter will help you install the latches.
Causes of failure
There may be several reasons, but the main part are of the same type. Most often, the radiator fails due to a blockage or coolant leak. Each of the possible problems is discussed below.
Radiator clogged
There are two types of radiator clogs, external and internal. These types differ in the nature of their symptoms.
Internal blockage
With this problem, dirt accumulates inside the radiator, which blocks the circulation of coolant fluid along the circuit, which leads to insufficient heating of the radiator. This is fraught with the fact that the radiator does not heat up to a certain temperature and cannot transfer heat to heat the interior. With such a breakdown, the engine coolant temperature will be normal, but heat will not blow from the air ducts.
If the inside of the radiator is clogged, it must be washed or, at best, replaced.
External blockage
Such a blockage has nothing to do with the car’s coolant. With this problem, the radiator becomes clogged due to debris from the environment. Fragments of leaves, dust, etc. get into its honeycombs. which leads to poor fan airflow. This problem has symptoms when the air flow from the ducts has low pressure.
This problem is treated by washing it and replacing or installing the cabin filter.
Leak
A radiator leak is the most unfavorable failure scenario. Since when using the heater in the cold season, the radiator will heat up and the coolant leaking from it will begin to evaporate directly into the car interior, which will lead to an unpleasant odor in the car interior, as well as to rapid and severe fogging of the windows.
The leak can be eliminated by soldering the radiator at the leak site, but given the low cost of the radiator itself, it is best to replace it with a new one.
One important point on how to drain antifreeze
It is worth paying attention, the drain plug located at the bottom is not needed; the drain from the side is also not needed. The pipe is removed, directed to the bottom, below the stove, and drained into a container. It turns out to be about three liters - this is more than enough to change the radiator and not lose an ounce. And if you drain the antifreeze from the radiator block, it will already be dirty and will need to be filtered or changed altogether, otherwise it will be clean. You just need to pour it directly into some container and fill it back and there will be zero losses.
Next action:
Unscrew the brake system. We carefully tighten a couple of bolts and move into the interior. You need to crawl under the steering panel and look at the top, then you can see two bolts that secure the radiator. If the car does not have power steering it will be much easier.
The pedal, the springs, the entire mechanism remains in place; there is no need to touch it and there are no problems.
It is better to attach an additional seal to the new radiator on both sides - this will ensure better heat transfer and prevent leakage from different sides.
Install the radiator and reassemble in reverse order.
There are never many ways to remove a stove radiator, let’s look at one more.
- First, let's salt the coolant. We take the largest syringe with a small tip in the form of a medical system and suck it straight out of the barrel with this design. There will be little liquid, and if the radiator is not fixed, the liquid will already flow out, so the draining process will not be long.
- Now drain the coolant from the radiator. Unscrew the drain plug. Drain and screw the plug back on.
- For convenience, it is better to remove the battery.
- Next is the air filter along with the pipe that goes to it. Don't forget to unscrew the air intake.
Removing the frill:
1) remove the rubber seal 2) remove the windshield wipers (unscrew the nuts with a head of ten) 3) take a thin screwdriver and remove the rivets under them, the self-tapping screws that we unscrew, then with a head of ten we unscrew the nuts on one side and the other, remove all the screws, remove three hoses from the expansion tank. And we remove the frill.
Where is
The heater radiator is located in the engine compartment, namely between the exhaust manifold and the passenger compartment. It should also be noted that it is located close to the vacuum brake booster, which can create some inconvenience when replacing it.
When replacing, in order to get to the radiator, it is necessary to unscrew a large number of screws, dismantle the frill and wipers.
