Hood support bracket for LADA Granta, LADA Kalina 1, LADA Kalina 2

02 June 2016 66,693

In the standard version, the hood of the Kalina and Grants is held in the open position by a stop (popularly called a “poker”). If you often have to look into the engine compartment, the design can be modified by purchasing a special hood shock absorber, the price of which starts from 1,200 rubles. Want to save money? Install the hood gas stop yourself for only 100-200 rubles.

It's no secret that most of Grant's technical solutions migrated to Kalina. The hood of these two models is the same, so installing the hood damper is no different.

Required:

1. Gas stop from Chery with a force of 300 N (catalog number: S21-5605010) - 1 piece;
2. Furniture corner dimensions 60x30x20mm;
3. Bolt M8*16 - 1 pc.;
4. Nut M8 - 1 pc.;
5. Enlarged washer M8 - 1 pc.;
6. M8 washer - 2 pcs.;
7. Connecting nut (barrel) M8*20 - 1 piece;
8. Ball gas stop holder 21080-6308134-00 - 2 pcs.

Where can I buy

: in our online store (category Stops Grants)

Installation procedure:

1. Install an M8 bolt with a nut, a barrel and a ball stop holder into the technological hole near the left headlight;
2. Unscrew the hood fastening bolt and install the hood support bracket, having previously made a hole in it for the ball holder;
3. Insert the hood gas stop into the ball holders.

The most difficult part of this modification is finding the hood gas strut bracket. There are two ways to do this:

1. Make it, for example, from a furniture corner measuring 60x40x40mm, cutting off one edge;
2. Use a 20x20mm corner and cut off part of the metal in the engine compartment on which the seal is installed. Otherwise, the corner will rest against it.

As a result, the force of one shock absorber (300 N) will be enough to hold the hood open. The procedure for installing the gas stop is also shown in the video:

Let us remind you that you can “kill two birds with one stone.” To do this, we install a front strut strut, which has the ability to install a gas stop. By the way, an additional hood seal will help keep the engine compartment clean (installation for Granta, for Kalina 2).

Keywords: hood of Lada Kalina | Lada Granta hood

Share on social networks:

Found an error? Select it and press Ctrl+Enter..

Lada Kalina Hatchback » Tverskaya » › Logbook › Gas stop of the hood on Kalina (end)

What else did I want to say about installing a gas stop on the hood of a car? After installation, I began to read what they are, how they are installed, pressure, etc. ...I set myself two stops, each with 260 N. pressure, for a total of 520 N. They shoot the hood - you have to hold it at the end of the stroke. Today I tried to open the hood on one stop - the pressure of 260 N was not enough! The hood opens on its own with difficulty, you have to push it. Probably the most optimal pressure, for one rod or two, is 350 - 450 N. You also need a couple of things during installation:

1. Key 12, 3 mm thick. A regular wrench is too thick to hold the stop pin. I cut out the key.

2. Self-locking nut with nylon ring. I decided to replace the simple nut with this one.

Description: a nut with a nylon ring or, as I also call it, a self-locking nut or with a lock washer is very similar in design to a regular nut, the only difference is a small flange on top in which there is actually a nylon ring that locks it and prevents further unscrewing during vibration and other influences.

Scope of application of a nut with a locking ring: used for a more reliable connection in various industries, including construction. The locking ring not only provides good fixation and prevents the nut from unscrewing, but also provides a tight seal to the threaded connection. Widely used in the automotive and engineering industries.

Nut installation method: fastening is done using a wrench or a wrench. When fastening, a washer can be used, with an enlarged field or a regular one; a groover is usually not used.

The first one in the photo is a simple M8 nut

HURRAY, HURRAY, HURRAH! IT'S DONE! Today I turned the gas stops upside down!

THANK YOU SO MUCH Androz FOR THE ADVICE!

YES, THE HOOD NOW OPENS SMOOTHLY WITH A SLOW DOWN AT THE END OF THE PISTON STROKE! NOW THERE IS NO NEED TO HOLD THE HOOD. Cool, I really like it! I advise everyone !

How to extend the life of trunk shock absorbers

Despite the fact that gas shock absorbers, which are used as trunk stops in Kalina, are considered quite durable and reliable, they fail quite often. The reason for this is, as a rule, insufficient attention to these details and neglect of basic operating requirements.

In fact, gas trunk shock absorbers turn out to be very demanding, primarily in terms of weather conditions. The fact is that at low temperatures the gas pressure drops, which does not have the best effect on their operation. In the cold season, abruptly opening the trunk lid can be detrimental to the stops, so in cold weather it is better to lift it smoothly, without rushing.

It is undesirable to help the shock absorber open the trunk quickly and in warm weather - this will also have a negative effect on its condition. In general, the more often the trunk opens and closes, the less the shock absorbers will last, which is quite logical.

The weight of the fifth door or trunk lid is also important. If a spoiler is installed on it or additional sound insulation is made, which increases the weight of the part, the standard shock absorber may no longer cope with its functions. In this case, it is necessary to replace it with a more powerful one, but identical in length and fastenings. It is better to replace shock absorbers in pairs at once, even if only one has failed.

Lada Granta Cloud › Logbook › hood gas stop technomaster

I bought myself a gas hood stop from a technomaster

sorting through small stops and the previous unsuccessful attempt got boring, and did not bring a positive result

in the end, having collected the money left over from others and scoured the market, I finally found a technical master's stop for a reasonable price

We insert the metal attached part into this hole so as not to drop it inside the hood, fix it with wire and align it with a magnet

modified the home-made engine compartment seal (eight-door), cutting it in the middle to push through the upper mount

From below, the stop is attached to a special hole in the technomaster spacer

the hood opens slightly lower than standard, but not critical

at the end the hood still jumps a little, but, as they write in the reviews, it will work out (but obviously not as much as when trying to install the Kalinovsky from the fifth door)

closing the hood has become a little more difficult (again, I think it will work out)

there is no this critical distortion of the hood itself

in general, not bad =) it’s now easier to top up the antifreeze =) (but still, as it turned out, I don’t really need it, as I initially thought...okay, screw it, let it be)

by cost:

— gas stop of the hood Tehnomaster Granta/Kalina2 —
1000r
UPD

in the summer in Abkhazia, this stop bent my upper mounting bar, fortunately, it seems that a friend of mine began to bend the metal of the hood a little, because the hood itself was warped; the shock absorber itself was replaced with an amor from the 5th door fret 2111,
2111-8231010
, in his case, in my opinion , the pressure was lower initially + mine is slightly used, now the hood opens very smoothly, without jerking or swinging at the end, the hood gaps have not changed, the shock absorber itself is half a centimeter shorter, true, but not critical, because the metal is more important

Lada Kalina Hatchback kalinos › Logbook › Gas stop of the hood

During operation, I constantly come across a dirty edge of the hood inside, i.e. when you need to look under the hood, you always get your hands dirty, and it’s not always convenient to put the hood on the standard stop. Today I came across a Tolyatti company that produces brackets and stops. Now we plan to purchase this emphasis and install it. The asking price is 1,000 rubles and an hour of work to install everything.

8231.0100.04 — LADA-Kalina hood stopInstallation instructionsPurpose of the productThe hood stop with a telescopic pneumohydraulic pusher is installed on all cars of the LADA-Kalina family and is intended to replace the standard stop-stand. Facilitates the procedure for lifting the hood and increases ease of use. Preparation for installation Prepare keys for 10 and 13. If you purchased a stop complete with a front strut extension, then install the stop after installing the extension, following these instructions from point 5. Installation

1. Open the car hood and install the standard stop.2. If your car is equipped with a rough road sensor, then remove it from the right glass of the front strut support and disconnect it from the bracket.3. Install the lower hood support bracket onto the right glass.4. Install the sensor onto this bracket and secure it with the supplied M6.5 bolts. Holding the hood, remove the standard stop-stand and remove the plastic support insert into which the stand hook fits from the hole in the hood.6. Install the bracket on the hood with the eye down, while the lower mounting bolt must be completely unscrewed, and the upper one must be left with 2-3 turns of thread.7. Place the lower end of the mounting plate into the oblong hole in the hood reinforcement.8. Insert and tighten the bottom bolt, rotate the bracket so that the eye is vertical and rests against the top of the slot.9. While holding the bracket in this position, tighten the installed bolts.10. Holding the hood, install the gas stop with the rod down. Remove the standard hood strut from the car.11. Close the hood carefully, without jerking; if everything is assembled correctly, the hood will close freely.12

The hood should be closed from the side of the installed gas stop to prevent distortions of the hood. Attention In winter, a slight decrease in the rigidity of the telescopic stop is allowed, which is due to the properties of the filler gas and is not a defect. If the stop completely loses its elastic properties, replace the stop with a similar one.

Upgrading your car

If the problem is known, why not solve it yourself, at the very beginning of using the car? It is quite easy and simple to reduce the noise level and get rid of dirt in the cabin by simply changing the rubber seal. The approximate price of the necessary parts is about 800 rubles, and the benefits of the procedure are considerable. When replacing the seal on the hood of the Lada, the engine compartment will be protected from the dirt that often gets there, and thanks to replacing the seal on the doors, the interior of the Lada will become quieter and cleaner.

You can change the door seal on Kalina like this.

1. To seal the doors, you must purchase a special rubber vertical seal RKI-19.
2. Before installation, it is better to keep the part in hot water for 2-3 minutes.
3. Prepare the door flanges, wash, degrease with alcohol, and dry.
4. Carefully, using tweezers, pry off the protective tape of the heated and dried seal.
5. Fix the seal at the top point in the rear door flange and gradually, peeling off the protective tape 10 centimeters at a time, glue the part. Important: when gluing, do not stretch the seal under any circumstances!
6. After installation, it is better to press the part additionally for reliability.

To seal the hood, you can use a door seal from a classic Lada: it is quite thick, and its length is more than enough. It is not necessary to use glue; just loosen the seal and attach it along the edge of the car hood with pliers. Ready! Now the hood of the Lada Kalina does not allow dirt to pass through, and there is less noise and dust in the car interior.

Replacing gas struts in Kalina trunk

Why do you need to change the trunk gas struts? Firstly, this will make it easier for you to open the trunk; you won’t have to constantly be afraid that its lid will slam shut at any moment. Secondly, the trunk lid will not rattle on bumps in the closed position, since the stops constantly press on it from below. Now let's get down to business.

The trunk gas struts on Kalina, sedan, station wagon, and hatchback change almost the same way. In this case, the work was carried out on a sedan.

I delayed replacing the trunk struts for quite some time. Lately, I even had to pull the trunk lid a little to open it.

After reading reviews about various stops, I decided to buy Aurora stops. They are not the most expensive, but, according to the Internet, they are quite high quality.

First you need to remove the old trunk struts. This is quite simple to do - take a flat-head screwdriver and pry up the fixing bracket. If the bracket does not pull up, it can be removed by pulling it towards the end of the stop (there are special slots there). Thus, you need to remove all 4 brackets from 2 stops one by one.

The stop itself, without staples, should come off easily.

Remove the first one, wipe the seats on the body and trunk lid. The seats on the stops themselves must be lubricated. If this is not the case, lubricate them with thick lubricant - silicone, grease, etc. These stops were lubricated, which undoubtedly pleased me.

Insert the fence and secure it with staples on both sides. It is best to insert the bracket into special slots using the same screwdriver. The second stop needs to be installed in the same way.

At this point, the installation of the gas struts on the Kalina trunk can be considered complete.

Advantages and disadvantages of Kalina

Lada Kalina cars are representatives of the small class due to their small dimensions. In addition, since 2008, the Lada Kalina Sport, which is a 5-door hatchback, has been producing a rather interesting car in terms of design and technical characteristics.

Advantages of Lada Kalina:

• efficiency;
• small dimensions, maneuverability;
• spacious interior;
• body rigidity;
• high geometric cross-country ability;
• ease of maintenance.

The brake system often malfunctions

The disadvantages of the car include the following.

1. Some car owners consider the level of noise and vibration in the cabin to be increased.
2. When braking, especially in second gear, noise from the gearbox is noted.
3. Knock in the front suspension and connecting rod-piston group.
4. The rear window washer hoses and plastic elements of the trunk shelf on some models are quite fragile and do not always withstand frost tests.
5. The hood and door seals on Kalina often have to be replaced, since a fairly large gap allows dirt to pass through.

Also, cars with 16-valve engines often have high oil consumption.

How to replace the cable in the clutch mechanism?

How to properly replace a clutch cable? Below are detailed aspects of the instructions to successfully replace the cable.

Tuning Granta sedan

Grant will not start The starter will not turn

1. First, we begin to unscrew the cable nut from the bracket, which is located under the dashboard. We perform this action using the key set to “8”, after which access to dismantling the bracket stop appears.
2. We disconnect the locking bracket, which is located on the “finger”.
3. Next, remove the body of the compensation device (use a screwdriver).
4. We remove the fluoroplastic bushing from the pedal pin.
5. We visually monitor the assembly element for wear. If such “artifacts” are present on the surface of the bushing, then we definitely replace it by pre-treating it with grease.
6. We dismantle the cable seal, which is mounted in the technological hole of the frontal shield of the body (in the photo it can be seen from the engine compartment).
7. Pull the cable end as you move until it is removed from the fork groove.
8. Using the key “17” we “defeat” the nut by means of which the cable tip is held on the corresponding bracket of the transmission unit. To prevent the tip from turning, we use an additional key.
9. Now we proceed to dismantling the cable end, after which we remove this element from the hole. The cable itself can also be removed.
10. Having completed the indicated manipulations, we begin the installation of a new unit.
11. First, we pass the cable into the previously designated hole in the front shield.
12. We treat the bushing with a special compound and fix the wear compensation element on the corresponding pin.
13. Now we attach the cable directly to the pedal and return the previously removed seal to its place.
14. We move on to installing the tip on the LADA Granta transmission bracket. Screw the retaining nut with the required torque (do not overdo it).
15. We remember the need to tighten the leash.
16. We continue the installation procedure by moving the lower tip in the forward direction until a feeling of stop occurs.
17. We hold the tip in the designated position and at the same time measure the distance that was illuminated by us earlier (more specifically: in the “leash-fork” section). If the parameter is incorrect, rotate the leash until the optimal value appears.
18. We remember the need to lubricate the body of the leash before installing it in the knot. The surface in contact with the fork must be lubricated.
19. The final action is to press the pedal to its full value multiple times. Then we again make a control measurement in the “fork – leash” sector and, if it deviates from the regulations (27 mm), we make a re-regulation. This completes the clutch cable replacement.

How to replace front and rear shock absorbers on Kalina

Before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to properly prepare for this event.

What tool will you need?

To replace shock absorbers on Kalina 1 and 2, you will need the following list of tools:

• spring remover;
• standard set of tools;
• pit or lift;
• jack;

Of course, we shouldn’t forget about the new detail. After everything you need appears, you need to set aside a free day and start repairing.

Removal and installation of front shock absorbers on Lada Kalina

It is most convenient to do this work on a lift, but an inspection pit will also work. You need to perform the following list of actions:

1. Hang the front wheel and remove it.
2. Unscrew the nut securing the steering end to the strut. Remove the tie rod end (1) using a suitable puller.
3. Unscrew the three nuts securing the strut to the side member (2).
4. Remove the shock absorber mountings to the steering knuckle (3).
5. Remove the shock absorber from the car along with the suspension spring and support bearing.

In order to avoid damage to the brake hose, it is necessary to fix the steering knuckle in the position in which it was standing. This is necessary to prevent it from stretching!

To replace the strut, you need to remove the spring and support bearing (4) from it. To do this, using a puller, the spring is compressed and the nut securing the support bearing is unscrewed. Next, all parts are installed on the new shock absorber, and assembly occurs in the reverse order.

Removal and installation of rear shock absorbers Lada Kalina 1 and 2

The procedure will be the same for hatchback, station wagon and sedan. Necessary:

1. Fold the rear seat forward and remove the shock absorber nut cap.
2. You need to tighten the spring in advance to relieve tension from the shock absorber and remove it without problems.
3. Unscrew the nut securing the strut to the body. To prevent the rod from turning, it can be held using another wrench.
4. After this, unscrew the lower mount of the strut to the rear beam.
5. Remove the old strut from the car.

Now all that remains is to rearrange the spring and install a new support bearing and rod boot. There is nothing complicated about this. Reassemble the strut as it should sit on the vehicle with a new support bearing and boot.

Mount the strut to the body and ask your partner to tighten the nut securing the shock absorber rod to the rear “glass”. Further assembly occurs in reverse order.

Lada Kalina Hatchback › Logbook › Installing Finwhale gas struts on the hood

There were a lot of things planned to be done on Kalina, but the idea of ​​​​installing gas struts on the hood began to be heard only in the last 2 months, all that remained was to go to an automagazine and find a suitable strut. Having studied posts on this topic on Drive, I bought two stops from Niva 2121, as well as Finwhale gas stops suitable for the 10 family, among others.

These stops turned out to be the smallest with the maximum extension of the rod, about 450 mm, and with a compressed rod, about 250 mm. I purchased 4 ready-made corners from OBI; all that remained was to make wider holes for the mounting bolts on the body. The initial version of the installation, without exact dimensions, turned out to be so crude that one of the stops had to be removed for a while, due to a slightly incorrect fastening of the corner on the hood lid; when closing, the stop itself rested on the protruding part of the wing and when the hood lid was completely closed, it started to rise up, which was not good. However, the first pancake, as they say, is lumpy)

In addition, the stop turned out to be too long for the places where it was possible to fasten the corners, so both stops did not extend all the way when opening, and the edge of the hood lid touched the windshield wiper at maximum opening, which was also not good. And at some point, due to high pressure, the end of the stop jumped out of the hinged mount, but it happened once and then luckily it didn’t happen again.

At the end of last week I completed all the fastenings to their logical conclusion. I had to use a trick so as not to drill unnecessary through holes on the edge of the wing; I used a grinder to cut out profile corners 13 cm long.

Thus, without any extra holes, I increased the distance and secured a stop at the other end of the profile corner; on the hood lid I only had to turn the corners towards the inside of the hood so that the stop would lie not on the flat edge of the wing, but on the side of it, thereby not sticking out the lid anymore hood

We solve problems with alarms

Car enthusiasts often complain that the alarm system on the Lada Kalina is very sensitive and is triggered by any rustle. This can be explained simply: the factory hood switch on the car has weak pressure.

You shouldn’t take the easy route and simply bend the mounting bracket on Kalina: it can easily be broken. It is better to use a trick invented by car enthusiasts and use a small furniture plug and ordinary double-sided tape to solve the problem.

To do this, you need to glue double-sided tape (preferably foam) onto a plug with a diameter of about the size of a 5-kopeck coin and attach it with the adhesive side to the hood of the Kalina in the place where the contact with the end switch occurs. That's it! The hood tip is now perfectly recessed, and the alarm will not bother the owner without a serious reason.

Lada Granta Podvenechnaya › Logbook › 86. Dream or reality? Gas stop for hood for 200 rubles.

When it comes to cars, I am a confused person and my car stoically endures all my new and new research. At one time I was wildly pressed to install a gas stop on the hood, I was crazy about a similar scheme on my then-grandfather’s 2111 and definitely wanted to do the same for myself, so as not to insert the poker into the stop and not get my hands dirty every time. Distrust in the poker is also caused by the fact that in case of strong wind or the presence of a fool who closes the hood with the stop sticking out, the lid is not so weakly broken. The helicopter-like appearance could still be removed after this, but the pokes on the back side of the inlet hole are no longer there. I was looking for options online and the thought kept haunting me that I saw reviews, and quite often, that the hood stops that are sold in on the Internet, they bend the hood. And my distrust was intensified when I saw the hood of a man who assured me that there was no distortion. I hadn’t even approached the car ten meters, and I had already noticed the distortion, but the owner didn’t see it and wrote to everyone on the Internet that “It’s all hockey, boys.” After this, the percentage of trust in those who wrote that everything was fine with them dropped significantly ( although maybe everything is really fine with you, I hope

) I didn’t want to play Russian roulette for 1.5-3 thousand rubles, it’ll work, it won’t work, I honestly didn’t want to.
There was an option to install double Rival stops, but the price tag is simply outrageous; for two penny stops, sellers ask from 2.5 thousand and above. But then luck turned up, in my VK group, comrade Kostinalex gives me an option on how to assemble a hood stop no worse than the factory one for literally three kopecks. I bow to him for this. His idea was based on the well-known scheme for attaching a gas stop, with the exception that he did not take the stop from a VAZ, which everyone sells, but from a Chinese Cherry car, their stop is both cheaper and weaker, which means bending the hood lid will not be. The power of the VAZ stop is 340N, and that of the Cherry is 300N. Looking ahead, I’ll say that it really doesn’t bend. The gap remains penny to penny the same as before installation. So, for a complete installation we need: Gas stop S21-5605010
- 1 pc.;
Corner 40x60
- 1 piece;
Bolt M8*16
- 1 pc.;
Flat washer enlarged M8
- 1 pc.;
Flat washer M8
- 2 pcs.;
Connecting nut (barrel) M8*20
- 1 pc.;
Nut M8
- 1 pc.;
Ball gas stop holder 21080-6308134-00
- 2 pcs.

I bought the gas stop at Exist, it was the most expensive there, but the pick-up point was in my area of ​​the city. In Yulsan and other stores it was either the same or a little cheaper, but it was about 100 km round trip. Not profitable. According to the fastening method, there is nothing complicated, in the wing, near the headlight itself, there is a technological hole, we insert an M8 bolt with a washer there from the back side ( The hydraulic corrector is a bit of a hindrance

), we put an enlarged washer and a connecting nut on top. For those who don’t understand, watch the video, it’s not long, and again I didn’t take any photos. The whole difficulty was in making the corner of the upper attachment point. Alexey took an ordinary furniture corner 20*20, the first thing I did was take the same one, drill holes in it with an 8-point drill and put everything on the car. It holds the stop - it's great, but it's impossible to close the hood. And so I turned this and that, it turns out that Alexey cut off the little metal on which the seal lies, it is this partition that prevents us from closing the stop. I didn’t want to cut metal under the hood, okay, I sawed down the doors to the music, it’s invisible and doesn’t rust, but here there’s always an open place for all the shit. I began to study the method of attaching this type of stops from the factory. We find out that the factory stops are attached with an angle with an offset center, as in the photo.

Here I made a second assault on the hardware store and took a 40*60 corner from the most suitable one. Its length is perfect, but the edges needed to be reduced. The part that we attach to the hood is 30mm, and the side where we attach the gas stop is 20mm. The excess metal was removed in 15 minutes on a diamond wheel.

The only thing left to do is drill 8mm holes and mount them in place. Now it doesn’t touch anything or rest against anything and the metal is intact.

You just need to paint it in the body color. I painted the first test corner, but the brush from the bottle broke and the paint ran out.

According to the results. The stop reliably holds the lid in the raised state, tested by the stormy wind that happened today during the filming of the video for the channel. Unlike the VAZ stop, the lid does not shoot out, but follows the hand with a pleasant modulation. The gaps, as mentioned above, remained unchanged.

Well, for clarity, video:

For all this, thank you all for your attention and good luck on the road!

Lada Kalina Sedan K-Line › Logbook › Gas stops on the hood. Part 3 (of 3). Completion

The gas struts are installed and are working properly. In previous posts about gas struts, many people noticed the rusty corners. I should paint it

Now it's time to paint)

1. Remove the stops from the car along with the mount.

2. We clean our corners using a drill and iron attachments. To clean the corner from the outside, simply secure it in a vice, but in order to clean the corner from the inside, I screwed in a bolt with a nut, which was safely and firmly clamped in the vice

3. For comparison, I laid out the corner before and after cleaning. The result is very impressive

4. After cleaning, two corners are ready for painting)

5. I decided to remake the upper corners from 3 mm metal, because... The old ones bent well.

6. Here, for comparison, are old ones made of 2 mm metal and new ones, just prepared, made of 3 mm metal.

7. The corners are cleaned and ready for painting.

8. Degrease with solvent 646 and apply primer in one layer.

9 Wait until it dries and apply a few more layers

10. For quick drying, I used an electric heater.

11. Priming was successful. Now let's paint.

12. Apply several layers of paint with preliminary drying.

13. The paint has dried. Now you can varnish it. So that everything is according to Feng Shui)

14. Varnished in one layer. It will do) Leave the parts to dry overnight...

15. Everything has dried up. Let's move on to installing devices. Self-locking nuts for M8 were purchased earlier. Nice stuff...

16. Looks beautiful now!

18. The supports are in their rightful place! Corners according to Feng Shui: both beautiful and the metal is protected)

Conclusion: 1. Corners are protected from atmospheric influences2. Looks nice like a factory part3. It would have been possible to paint everything with a brush (it would have been easier, and less paint would have been used), but since you have a spray gun, it’s useful4. The upper newly made corners did not fit (the hood sticks out a lot), I had to leave the old corners made of 2 mm metal

Gas stop of the hood of a Lada Granta car

Many car enthusiasts prefer to install the usual gas strut, which raises this part of the body. The gas strut can be installed in 40 minutes instead of the standard strut under the hood of the Lada. The Lada hood will no longer harm the hands of the car enthusiast during repairs. You can also install a hood deflector.

The stop performs the same function as a regular standard stand, but it is much more functional and safer. It cannot be accidentally hit or knocked out, it does not jam, and there are no problems with opening and closing the hood. The likelihood of contamination of the driver's hands is reduced if it is necessary to visually check the space in the engine compartment. The gas stop assembly is durable and does not require special maintenance.

Installing a trunk lid shock absorber on a Lada Granta

Trunk lid gas struts

1. Place the car on a level platform and release the handbrake.
2. We open the trunk lid and support the structure with a wooden stand to prevent any inclination.
3. Remove the two torsion bars from the rear side of the trunk lid mount.
4. We fix metal supports with rubber bumpers onto the standard mounting arches.
5. There are holes on the side of the interior wall; screw on the lower support mount.
6. We put on the shock absorber.

By analogy, we will equip the opposite side.

The installation of trunk shock absorbers on the Granta Liftback is somewhat different from the Sedan configuration. We install accessories in place of standard ones. What makes the new pushrods different is the pre-installed springs at the end of the cylinder. When the trunk lid is lowered, the springs prevent it from slamming shut and lift the structure a few centimeters.

Lada Granta Vernaya ® › Logbook › Gas struts on the hood and trunk + little things

Good day to all!

The long-awaited package arrived with goodies for the car! As soon as I received it, I immediately started installing it.

And we have several useful things on the agenda =)

Hood stop from Tehnomaster

While the hood is open, I did what was already planned... namely, the cabin filter was replaced...

Well, as the name suggests, I didn’t limit myself to the hood stop! Here they are - 2 trunk supports.

As you can see from the photo, I have already removed the torsion bars. With them the lid lifts on its own! I considered this not very safe, in case I accidentally press the button on the go... And even in winter, if there is ice on the lid, you need to carefully control the opening process. If both torsion bars are removed after opening the trunk, the lid remains in place... after a small push, the lid rises and opens halfway... with a stronger push, the lid opens completely. Closing is also comfortable, with one hand without problems, without loud bangs, etc.

Well, the final touch for today is the second ashtray =)

All accessories were purchased with the help of Irina aka VeSnUwKa. For that, a big THANK YOU to her =)

That's all for today! Good luck on the roads! Thanks for your attention =)

How to Determine If Your Trunk Shock Absorber Needs Replacement

Unlike suspension shock absorbers, the trunk struts cannot be checked on a stand or by rocking the car. A visual inspection also does not give any results - the gas that comes out, unlike oil, does not leave any traces. You can only be convinced that the stops require replacement through practice.

Most often, car owners realize this when they unexpectedly receive a blow to the back or head from an open trunk lid (in sedans) or the fifth door (in hatchbacks and station wagons). In order not to risk your health, be more careful about how the trunk lid moves. It should go down from the top position only when force is applied, and rise by itself under the action of shock absorbers. If the cover has to be “helped” to rise, but it tends to come back on its own or with slight pressure from top to bottom, the shock absorbers require replacement.

It is best to check the performance of the trunk shock absorbers at the first frost. At negative temperatures they work worse, and even if they functioned more or less normally in the summer, they may well not be enough for the winter.

Diagnosing and replacing trunk shock absorbers will save you from possible ridiculous injuries and hassles using the trunk. If you do not take care of this in advance, it is likely that when loading the machine you will have to hold the lid with your hands or even ask someone to do it, which is very inconvenient.

Source

How to adjust the height?

Some Kalina owners notice that the gaps between the hood and the fender are not always even. You might think that you can adjust the position of the hood using rubber pads. By twisting or unscrewing them, changing the height position of the hood in this way. However, if you use this technology and achieve perfectly even cracks, then later, when opening the hood, you will need to make significant efforts, and this is undesirable. How to be? There is another method that seems preferable.

You can make adjustments using a rod with a spring, popularly called a fungus. To unscrew its locking nut, you will need a fairly large diameter wrench, but for simplicity you can use a regular adjustable wrench, also called a gas wrench.

In cases where the hood does not fit tightly when closing or is completely loose, you will need to tighten the lock pin with a regular screwdriver, having first loosened the locking nut with an adjustable wrench. If, on the contrary, the hood is located very low, it is necessary to unscrew the rod by loosening the locknut and making several turns.

Having done all this, for a more precise fit you can now use the already mentioned rubber pads. By lowering or raising these pillows you can now achieve an almost ideal result. Then it is advisable to adjust the hood lock and be sure to remember to tighten the locknut, otherwise it will slowly unscrew and the described procedure will have to be repeated again after some time.

What to do if you can’t open the hood?

The Kalina hood does not open if the hood lock cable breaks. If you come to a car service center with this problem, the specialists there will most likely dismantle the engine crankcase protection to get to the mechanism. However, this can be done much easier. Through the hole in the radiator grille, with some skill and patience, the lock latch can be pryed off. First you will have to make a hook from thick wire. For example, even a welding electrode may be suitable for this. In addition, you can try using a regular screwdriver to press the latch. It can be inserted into the hole, which is located under the emblem on the radiator grille.