Intake manifold VAZ 2114: characteristics, self-replacement of the gasket

The collector (resonator, “pants”) is an engine attachment; it is a closed reservoir of complex shape with a common chamber (receiver) and outlet pipes. According to the nature of the functions performed in the car, there are two types of collectors - outlet and inlet.

The main task of the intake manifold is to supply air from the distribution system, mix it with fuel and transform it into an air-fuel mixture of the desired consistency, followed by a uniform supply to the combustion chamber of the cylinders. Therefore, the main task of the exhaust manifold is to collect exhaust gases from the engine cylinders into a single pipe.

When is it necessary to replace and remove the intake manifold on a VAZ-2114

Huge temperature changes are the main problem faced by the exhaust manifold and the gasket, for which it is removed. The collector itself is made of a special grade of cast iron; it can withstand high temperatures (up to 800-900 degrees) , however, these are critical values, after which the collector may warp or crack.

Exhaust manifold VAZ-2114

Its main task is to collect exhaust gases and distribute them into the exhaust pipe of the muffler.

Replacing or dismantling the VAZ-2114 exhaust manifold is necessary in the following cases:

1. Mechanical damage to the collector.
2. Warping and loss of tightness at the junction with the cylinder head.
3. Burnout of the gasket between the head and the manifold.
4. The appearance of cracks as a result of engine overheating.
5. Replacing the collector with a device of a different configuration, adapted to a more severe operating mode.

In the event that we are not going to participate in high-speed races for the prize of the head of the regional traffic police, replacing or dismantling the collector may be necessary in a number of cases.

Causes of malfunctions

The key factor that causes 90% of exhaust manifold malfunctions on VAZ 2114 cars is high temperature and poor quality materials from which the parts are made. During operation, the steel repeatedly heats up and cools down, which leads to the appearance of cracks in the body. This is a common occurrence for VAZ cars older than 7-8 years.

Auto repair shops offer crack welding services using argon welding. However, for a number of reasons, this activity is useless for cars older than 7 years.

1) Just removing and installing the exhaust manifold will cost about 2.5 thousand rubles. Taking into account the work of the welder and other actions, the cost of repairs can be 4-5 thousand rubles. If you do the work yourself, buying a new part will cost less.

2) Welding, even argon welding, disrupts the structure of “tired” metal. A boiled part rarely lasts longer than a year, after which new holes appear. The older the car, the faster the problem returns, and the collector has to be removed again. If the car is older than 8 years and there are problems with cracks in the manifold, it is better to remove the part and replace it with a new one.

• Wear . During operation, the car emits hot gases that destroy the surface of the gasket, as a result of which it can tear or delaminate.
• Since there is only one gasket for the intake and exhaust manifolds, gasoline entering through the first channel can get on the gasket, which also affects the integrity and structure of the material from which it is made.
• Part quality, not always high, even original, so when choosing, you should pay special attention to this.

  Bent valves due to irregular valve timing do not threaten the 8-valve valve

Signs of trouble

Exhaust manifold gasket One of the main signs of a leak in the system is a “sporty” growling sound when the engine speed increases. This may be a symptom of various exhaust system problems. To check, it is better to take an assistant and go to a garage with a pit or to an overpass. Most often, you can determine by eye whether the problem lies in the muffler, resonator or exhaust.

Gasket wear may become apparent during planting. Open the hood and start the car - white or grayish smoke rising from the manifold during warm-up indicates a leak for this reason. VAZ car owners usually encounter this problem once every 3-4 years. When using low-quality spare parts and before. The solution may be to manufacture a custom-made steel gasket. It can last as long as the entire collector.

Service specialists, when attracting clients, like to tell scary stories about the explosion of the exhaust manifold on VAZ 2114 cars due to cracks. In reality this is nothing more than a myth. But the real problems are no less serious, so there is no point in putting off repairs.

A cracked exhaust manifold or worn gasket can cause your engine to run rough.

1) A lambda probe is installed in the exhaust manifold, which affects the operation of the injection system. Strong air suction disrupts the oxygen mass content in the exhaust; the lambda incorrectly adjusts the quality of the mixture, causing tripping, uneven idling, loss of power, and “black” spark plugs.

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2) Another function is crankcase ventilation. Impaired air circulation causes disturbances in the operation of the gas distribution mechanism, increased wear of valves, the formation of carbon deposits on the pistons and other “joys”. If increased noise and unpleasant odors during engine operation are combined with dirty work, the car needs urgent repairs.

Places of possible suction

There are quite a few places through which air can get inside the fuel system, and during the test you will have to examine them all (we’ll talk about how to detect them a little lower).

For now, let's say that you have to check:

1. The intake manifold gasket (its destruction or burnout in the vast majority of cases is the cause of suction).

1. Hoses and pipes suitable for the manifold.
2. Injector seals.
3. Throttle gaskets.
4. Plugs placed on the manifold.
5. Bushings.
6. Vacuum brake boosters.

If symptoms of air leaks appear in the VAZ 2114 injector, all these elements will have to be checked.

You should also check and, if necessary, replace the idle speed sensor. Very often they are of poor workmanship and are not sealed, leading to air entering the manifold.

How to find the leak location

There are 3 main methods by which you can find a leaky area:

• by monitoring the rarefaction of air in the line;
• using a smoke generator;
• using a volatile flammable liquid.

We will omit the first method, since it requires special equipment, which is not available at all service stations. But the second method deserves a lot of attention, since it is quite simple to implement and at the same time very accurate. It will require a compressor, a blow gun and cigarettes (the latter will serve as a source of smoke).

Before checking the air intake of the VAZ 2114, you will need to assemble the entire installation, namely, connect the gun to the compressor receiver, and insert a cigarette into the nozzle of the gun. After this, a pressure of about 0.8 atmospheres is built up and the smoke is directed into the collector using a gun.

The smoke itself created by such an installation is quite thick and quickly fills the entire system. All that remains for the motorist is to carefully monitor the place where the smoke is coming out, and after detecting it, carry out repair work.

In some cases, the leak can be found without additional means - the damaged area can be easily detected by the characteristic whistle or hiss that is produced by the intake air when the engine is running. True, this only happens if there are serious cracks and breaks.

If the proposed method using a smoke generator is not suitable (for example, there is no compressor available), then the test can also be performed using volatile flammable liquids packaged in pressurized cans. As such, you can use ethyl ether (although it is almost impossible to get it in its pure form now), a means for winter starting diesel engines (the main component of which is the same ether), as well as special cleaning products based on hydrocarbons.

In order to find the location of the leak, you need to start the car engine and, while idling, begin to spray all possible components, joints, plugs and hoses that relate to the manifold and may cause air penetration.

This should be done with pauses - after spraying one place, you should wait a few seconds. If you notice that the engine speed has increased sharply after the procedure, then the detected area should be thickly sprayed again. If after this the revolutions quickly go up again, then the leak point has been successfully found.

What does a faulty collector affect?

There are many stories about the rupture (and even explosion) of a cracked manifold while the car is moving.

Of course, none of them are true, but nevertheless, a leaky manifold is a very serious problem that requires an immediate solution, and here’s why: through burnouts and cracks, air can enter the exhaust system, diluting the exhaust gases.

As a result of this, the lambda sensor will incorrectly determine their composition and incorrectly adjust the composition of the fuel-air mixture injected into the engine, which will lead to tripping, a drop in speed and carbon deposits on the spark plugs.

Bent valves due to incorrect valve timing

These same cracks will affect the crankcase ventilation, disrupting it. This will lead to timing problems and increased valve wear. And finally, exhaust gases escaping through the burnouts will enter the engine compartment and, partially, into the interior, causing unpleasant odors and discomfort during trips.

A severely burnt manifold gasket can lead to exactly the same consequences as cracks on the part itself.

Replacing slip rings

After disassembling the generator, its armature is clamped in a vice. The bearing is removed from the rotor shaft using a puller. After this, the cross-shaped plug covering the contacts is dismantled. It is simply pryed off with a screwdriver and removed.

Next, you need to disconnect the contacts of the slip rings from the armature windings. A mechanic's screwdriver is used for this. Its tip is applied to the contacts closer to the shaft, and they are cut one by one with a hammer blow. Having cut the contacts, you can begin dismantling the rings. To do this, 2 identical heads or simply pipe cuttings are placed on the sides of the shaft. Screwdrivers rest in them, the ends of which pry the rings from below. Using 2 screwdrivers as levers, you need to rip the rings off the shaft.

After removing the manifold, dry glue will remain on the shaft splines. It needs to be scraped off with a knife or the tip of a screwdriver. Then the armature winding contacts are cleaned. New rings are put on the shaft and seated completely with hammer blows. You need to hit through a wooden block so as not to deform or split them.

Next you need to solder the contacts of the winding and rings. To do this, they are first treated with a solution of rosin or soldering acid. Then the contacts need to be tinned one by one and soldered together. Perhaps the distance between them does not allow soldering, then a jumper should be used. It uses copper wiring. It is also tinned and soldered between the contacts. It is important to check that the solder does not touch the metal surfaces of the armature, but only connects the contacts. After soldering, the contacts are closed back with a cross-shaped plug, a bearing is mounted on top of the shaft and the armature is installed back. In fact, nothing is difficult, the main thing is to act without haste, cut the contacts when dismantling closer to the rings, and then, when installing, do not hit the new collector directly with a hammer.

Preparation stages

To replace the manifold or its gasket, in any case you will have to dismantle the VK. But before you get to the element you are looking for, you will first need to go through some preparatory steps. Namely, tighten the fasteners, and then remove the air filter and carburetor if the first stage does not help.

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Stage of work	Your actions
Tightening the fastenings	Often, loose manifold fastenings caused the entry of contaminants, which disrupted the performance of the exhaust system. If the tightening did not give any result, then the gasket is definitely burned out or the collector itself is damaged, which is less likely
Removing the air filter	If the engine is fuel-injected, to remove the air filter you will need to unscrew the four fastening screws of the filter housing cover. The filter itself is located under the cover. If you have difficulty lifting the cover, disconnect the mass air flow sensor and remove the filter device. If you have a carburetor under the hood, then the filter and housing will be held in place by three latches. There is a screw in the center of the metal cover, which is often unscrewed by hand. Once you remove it, you can lift the lid. There is a filter underneath, which should be removed carefully. Pay attention to its condition. If the filter has been in use for quite a long time, it is recommended to replace it during reassembly.
Removing the carburetor	Removing the carburetor is carried out in the following sequence: Disconnect the coolant supply hose to the engine starting device from the fitting. To do this, unscrew the clamps; Be sure to drain the coolant into a prepared container; Disconnect the exhaust pipe that comes from the exhaust manifold and the BC bracket; Disconnect the throttle cable bracket. To do this, you need to remove one end of the spring from the damper control rod, and then remove the entire spring. Now loosen the nut on the bracket, which will allow you to remove the cable from the engagement; Disconnect the EPH sensor from the power plug; Disconnect the vacuum tube and a pair of hoses from the carburetor heating unit; Remove the engine crankcase ventilation hose; Remove the four mounting nuts holding the carburetor and intake manifold; Remove the carburetor carefully without yanking. It must be gradually removed from the studs.

Dismantling the unit

All dismantling work must be carried out only on a cold engine. To make it easy to unscrew all fasteners, you can pre-treat them with WD40, several hours or even a day before the repair begins.

Part selection

21083-1008081 – original catalog number of the gasket for the intake and exhaust manifold. It consists of two parts or, on newer models, one. This part is produced at the AvtoVAZ plant. The average cost is 250 rubles per piece (if there are two of them) or 450 rubles (for a whole one).

One-piece manifold gasket A gasket that consists of two parts A one-piece gasket and one that consists of two parts together

In addition to the fact that there is an original part, you can also find a number of analogues that are recommended for installation. Let's consider which gaskets can be installed under the VAZ-2114 manifolds:

• Trialli GZ 102 0013 is a well-known Russian manufacturer that produces a wide range of analog parts for domestically produced cars. The cost of the gasket is 200 rubles per piece.
• AJUSA 13065200 is another domestic manufacturer that has won consumers over the quality of its products. The cost of the product is 450 rubles.
• Ukrainian also produces and supplies this gasket. But, if you look at it, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, since the resource is designed for only 20,000 km.

Required tool for replacement

Before you begin the process itself, you need to decide on the necessary tools. To remove the exhaust manifold on a VAZ 2114 in order to replace the gasket or entire part, you will need the following tool:

• open-end and ring wrenches for 8, 10, 13, 17;
• wrench with heads 17, 19;
• screwdrivers, pliers.

It is also a good idea to have tools such as a Dremel, nut saw or nut pick on hand. As a rule, the fasteners on the exhaust system parts stick tightly.

A few days before your planned repair, begin treating accessible nuts with WD-40 or another penetrating lubricant. Repeat the operation 2-3 times. This will make the task of removing the manifold a little easier .

The question often arises: is it worth using a sealant after removing and replacing the gasket? Experts believe that if you apply sealant to the gasket, it should only be high-quality silicone. A bad sealant can bring a lot of trouble to a VAZ 2114 engine: when it burns out, it turns into “pellets” that are pulled into the crankcase. And this is unnecessary contamination of the piston system.

Now that everything is prepared, you can start working directly. In order for the manifold to be removed without any problems and rusted bolts not to create trouble, everything must be lubricated with WD-40 before performing the operation. It is advisable to do this several times. Before performing the operation, you need to think again, weigh everything and calculate your strength.

Dismantling of collectors

Now comes the turn to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. Having dismantled them, you can understand whether it is possible to get by with replacing the gasket, or whether the collectors themselves will need to be completely replaced.

The gasket is a consumable item, the purchase of which will literally cost you 50-250 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and region. Services for replacing the gasket at a service station cost more than 1,500 rubles. Add to this the cost of a high-quality gasket and you will get quite a lot of money. Such costs can be avoided if you do everything yourself.

Dismantled unit

Intake manifold

By removing the air filter and carburetor, you will gain access to the intake manifold.

To dismantle it you will need a certain set of tools:

• Ratchet with 10mm head;
• Collar;
• Ratchet;
• Deep head 13;
• Regular head 13;
• Open-end wrench 13.

When everything is ready, you can start working.

1. Unscrew a couple of mounting nuts to bend back the platform located under the carburetor.
2. Disconnect the hoses that are connected to the intake manifold.
3. Remove the six mounting nuts located on the intake manifold.
4. Remove the manifold itself from the studs. To do this, simply rock the knot to the sides. It often sticks to the gasket, which causes problems with removal.
5. Inspect the condition of the unit. If there is damage, the collector must be replaced.
6. If the problem is only with the gasket, put the intake manifold aside for now and start removing the outlet.

An exhaust manifold

To dismantle a graduate you will need:

• Ratchet;
• Open-end wrench 13;
• Socket wrench 13;
• Deep head for 13.

All is ready? Then let's get started.

1. Unscrew the four exhaust pipe mounting nuts from our exhaust manifold.
2. Pull the so-called pants off the heels and take them to the side. Now you can unscrew three more fastening nuts securing the VK.
3. Carefully, without sudden movements or jerks, pull the graduate off the stiletto heels.
4. It is not uncommon that during the process of dismantling this unit, the manifold or its mounting nuts become stuck to the seats. To prevent this, treat the assembly with WD40 in advance, let it react, after which there will be no problems with dismantling work.
5. If the studs break off during removal, you will need to drill out the old element, make a new thread and install a fresh stud.

conclusions

Replacing the intake manifold gasket on a VAZ-2114 engine is a rather complex and time-consuming process. So, not every motorist can handle it on his own, and therefore he has to contact a car service, where he will need to pay 4-5 thousand rubles for the process, plus the cost of the part and consumables.

It's sucking air from somewhere, I don't understand where, the car service center said that the receiver gaskets need to be changed, to no avail. not the injectors, exactly, they are new, I changed them too. Maybe someone had such a problem? 2114 8 class

What kind of gasket to buy to replace a burnt one?

• sufficiently elastic so as not to deform during installation and use;
• impermeable to gases;
• resistant to prolonged exposure to chemicals and aggressive substances.

The manufacturer recommends installing only the original cylinder head gasket, its article number is 21083-1003020. The dimensions of this part are calculated for the VAZ-2114 cylinder head. The original spare part is produced at AvtoVAZ, but you can buy a part with the same parameters from Trialli, Patron, and Reinz. But please note that some analogues often cost 2-3 times more than stock components.

Instructions

Replacing the cylinder head gasket is a procedure consisting of several stages.
By following the step-by-step guide, you will be able to complete this job quickly and without any problems. To perform this work, prepare sets of open-end and socket wrenches, a set of heads of different sizes, screwdrivers, rags, and a container for draining coolant and fuel.

First, turn off the power to the car. Remove the negative terminal from the battery. Then set the 1st cylinder (its piston) to the TDC position. Drain the coolant.

After this, you need to make sure that the pressure level in the power system is low enough. To do this, unscrew the cap, which is located at the rear end of the fuel rail, press the spool and drain the fuel, then screw the cap back on. It is very important to consider that these actions can only be carried out a couple of hours after using the car. If you do this immediately after stopping the car, it is possible that you will get burned both from contact with the spool and from the fuel that will be sprayed under pressure. In this case, it will not be possible to safely drain it.

Types of elements

Today two types of exhaust manifolds are produced:

Solid parts have shorter channels, which are then combined into one chamber. Material: heat-resistant cast iron. The part has low gas removal efficiency. This is because the shorter manifold passages act as a barrier to gas pulses from the cylinder block.

Most parts are produced for mass use, and their quality often suffers. Such collectors do not have a vacuum zone. If they get too hot and then cool, the cast iron can crack. Then you will need to remove the VAZ 2114 exhaust manifold and replace it.

For sports and extreme use, a large number of exhaust manifolds are produced with various shapes and methods of connecting pipes. They are made of stainless steel. Car enthusiasts call these parts spiders. There are short spiders and long ones.

For example, on a 4-cylinder engine, the pipe system is represented by the formula 4-2-1. So, each cylinder has its own pipe. Then these pipes are connected into two, and then into one. This system is used in tuning. It allows you to increase the car's power and torque. The short 4-1 system is used in sports.

Exhaust system

The main elements of the exhaust system on these cars are the exhaust pipe, additional and main mufflers, as well as a converter. The exhaust pipe on the VAZ 2114 is connected to the converter using a special hinge. A similar design was already used on the VAZ 2109.

To ensure a more reliable and tight connection, there is a graphite ring between the flanges. In order to prevent the car body from heating up, engineers provided a special gasket above the neutralizer. It plays the role of a heat sink element.

VAZ developers installed a special oxygen sensor at the inlet part of the neutralizer. Car enthusiasts know it as a lambda probe. What functions does it perform? Everything is quite simple here. This part is needed in order to determine as accurately as possible the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases.

So, the information received from this sensor is fed to the ECU and is then used to quickly adjust the amount of fuel that will then flow into the cylinder block. As in many other VAZ models, the mufflers are securely fixed to the underbody of the car. For this, engineers used special suspensions.

The vibration that accompanies the release of gases is significantly reduced with the help of these suspensions. This ensures silence in the car interior.

Features of the neutralizer

Now let's look at the work and functions performed by the catalyst in VAZ cars. It is also called a catalytic converter. This device is one of the most basic parts of the exhaust system of these cars. It is designed to reduce as much as possible the toxicity of exhaust gases that will be released into the atmosphere.

The design of the device consists of a housing, a heat-insulating block and the block itself with the carrier. Special mention should be made of the block carrier. It is this component of the catalyst on the VAZ, and on many other cars, that is equipped with ceramic carriers that are not subject to deformation when operating at high temperatures and with increased vibrations.

The design of this element consists of several longitudinal honeycombs, which are designed to increase the area of ​​​​work with exhaust gases. Special substances are used to reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases in cars. Platinum, palladium or rhodium are mainly used for these purposes.

These chemicals are designed to significantly speed up the reactions that take place in the neutralizer. These substances work in the oxidation of hydrocarbons. The reaction produces ordinary water vapor. Rhodium acts as a catalyst in reduction reactions.

Its main role is to reduce nitrogen oxides into as harmless substances as possible. The block in which these substances are located is placed in a special oblong-shaped housing, and a heat-insulating layer is located between it. Also located in this housing is an oxygen sensor.

Practice has shown that at the operating temperature of the exhaust gases, the catalyst can reliably retain more than 90% of all toxic gases. So, this part has significant efficiency.

Signs of trouble

Exhaust manifold gasket

One of the main signs of a leak in the system is a “sporty” growling sound when the engine speed increases. This may be a symptom of various exhaust system problems. To check, it is better to take an assistant and go to a garage with a pit or to an overpass. Most often, you can determine by eye whether the problem lies in the muffler, resonator or exhaust.

Repair of the VAZ 2110 generator armature.

In the photo we have a new anchor and there are no complaints about it, but at the moment we will talk about possible malfunctions with it.

An excitation coil is installed inside the armature. Replacing the brushes of the VAZ 2107 generator, do it yourself. Replacing the slip rings and bearings of the VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 generator. It's time to sort it out. The coil has two terminals that are connected to slip rings. We need electricity to pass from the first contact ring through the coil to the other and not penetrate the housing.

To check, we will need a special multimeter device. If you are an experienced radio mechanic, you can easily check the resistance of the excitation coil. Resistance should be in the range from 1.8 Ohm to 8 Ohm. Checking and replacing brushes on the generator and VAZ 2107. Service without removing the generator. principle of replacing valve stem seals replacing valve stem seals VAZ 2110 16kl. But when the device readings differ from the norm, it means a replacement is needed

anchors or its repair.

But, since many drivers have not even held such a device in their hands, you can check it using the sound mode. For this you need the device itself. We set it to beep mode.

Reddish arrows indicate the position of the mode switch and where to connect the two wires with probes (by color).

When the probes are closed together, a sound signal occurs. Next we check the excitation coil for a break. By connecting the probes to the contact rings of the generator armature, a sound signal should occur, this means that there is no break in the contact. Now let's check the coil for shorted turns.

Set the mode switch to this position and freeze it.

If the device readings show less than 1.8, it means that there are short-circuited turns in the coil and such an armature requires replacement.

Next, we need to check whether the coil is shorted to the housing. We set the mode switch to the sound signal position and connect the probes, one to the armature contact ring, and the other to the body.

If the beep

is located, which means that the insulation of the excitation coil with the generator armature housing is broken. The upcoming introduction of an anchor is not permissible, either we buy a new one or repair the old one. Do-it-yourself replacement of VAZ 2110 thresholds video. If there is no sound signal and the slightest resistance (the resistance is shown on the display of the device), it means that it is working.

We have sorted out the excitation coil and move on to the contact rings of the generator armature.