Lada Priora starter: where is it located, how to remove, replacement

February 28, 2017 Lada.Online 28 587 0

The starter is removed in connection with its replacement, inspection or repair. On LADA cars, the starter is installed on the clutch housing at the front in the direction of travel. Before starting work, you should disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, drive the car onto an inspection ditch (overpass) and remove the engine protection.

On all modern LADA cars (Lada XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4x4), removing the starter is performed in the same way. Installation is carried out in reverse order. Distinctive features of the process are presented below.

Starter replacement

Many owners, at the first malfunction of the starter, change the entire unit, without understanding the causes of the breakdown itself. But in most cases, the reasons for failure are as follows:

1. Failure of the solenoid relay - purchased and replaced separately
2. Brush wear
3. Burning dimes on the retractor relay

Each of the problems listed above can be solved much cheaper than buying a new starter for a Priora. Therefore, first you should contact a specialist who will tell you exactly what the reason is and answer whether it can be repaired or not!

If repair is no longer possible, which is extremely rare, then a replacement must be made. To do this you will need the following tool:

• 13 mm head
• extension
• ratchet or wrench

Required Tools

In order to remove or install the starter on a Priora, you will need the tools from the table below.

Table - Tools required to replace the front strut

Replacing the starter on a Lada Priora can be carried out without access from the bottom. If you don’t want to remove the air filter and the wires going to the sensors, then you can dismantle and install the unit from underneath. In this case, you will need an inspection hole, overpass or lift to access the place where the starter is located.

Article and price

Below is a table with the article number and cost of the original starter and its analogues.

Starter replacement

Many owners, at the first malfunction of the starter, change the entire unit, without understanding the causes of the breakdown itself. But in most cases, the reasons for failure are as follows:

1. Failure of the solenoid relay - purchased and replaced separately
2. Brush wear
3. Burning dimes on the retractor relay

Each of the problems listed above can be solved much cheaper than buying a new starter for a Priora. Therefore, first you should contact a specialist who will tell you exactly what the reason is and answer whether it can be repaired or not!

If repair is no longer possible, which is extremely rare, then a replacement must be made. To do this you will need the following tool:

• 13 mm head
• extension
• ratchet or wrench

The procedure for replacing the starter on a Priora with your own hands

This repair is very simple, so it won’t take more than 25-20 minutes. The ideal option is to work either in the inspection hole, or to remove the air filter housing from the cushions, after which very good access to the starter opens.

First of all, we disconnect the “-” terminal from the car’s battery, after which we disconnect all the wires from the starter, one of which is screwed on with a nut.

Then you need to unscrew the three starter mounting nuts, one on top:

And it’s more convenient to unscrew two from the bottom, as clearly shown in the photo below.

When they are unscrewed, you can easily remove it, since there are no more fasteners left.

Installation of a new one during a complete replacement occurs in the reverse order, and no difficulties will arise when performing this repair.

It is important to keep in mind that the starters on the Priora were installed with both three fasteners and two (old and new). Therefore, before buying a new one, make sure which one was on your car.

The price of a new 2170 can range from 3,500 to 4,000 rubles, although you can find Chinese options a little cheaper, but of relatively dubious quality. The most reliable and problem-free are KZATE factory production, which can easily cover over 200,000 km of a vehicle without repairs.

Catalog number and cost of a good starter for Lada Priora

Car owners have a predominantly negative attitude towards original starters on Priora. This is due both to a large number of defects and to the presence of breakdowns that are not typical for starters from other manufacturers. For example, it is not uncommon for stator magnets to come off. Therefore, drivers recommend paying attention to analogues. Among them there are many decent options at an affordable price. The tables below provide a list of brands that have proven themselves in use in a car.

Table - Good analogues of the original 1.4 kW Lada Priora starter

Table - The best analogues of a branded starter with a power of 1.8 kW

Priora starter relay where is the photo located

If the starter does not work when the ignition key is turned to position “II,” there may be a malfunction of both the starter itself and its activation circuit. To check, turn off the ignition and disconnect the wire block from the terminal of the starter traction relay windings.

Using a screwdriver, we bridge the terminal of the traction relay and the tip of the wire connected to the “positive” terminal of the battery. If the crankshaft rotates, then the starter is working, and the cause of the malfunction is a violation in its activation circuit. Otherwise, the starter or its traction relay is faulty. If it is not possible to eliminate the malfunction in the activation circuit of a working starter, then, if necessary, in this way (by turning on the ignition and closing the terminals), you can start the engine and drive to the repair site. A malfunction in the starter switching circuit can be caused by damage to: the starter relay, the power circuit or relay control circuit, the ignition switch contact group. To troubleshoot the starter circuit...

...in the car interior we remove the starter relay and fuses from the mounting block. To check the starter relay, install a known-good relay type 902.3747-11 in its place. To do this, you can use the adjacent heated rear window relay. If the starter turns on with the newly installed relay, then the starter relay has failed and must be replaced. If not, check the power circuit and starter relay control circuit. To check the power circuit, remove the starter relay from the mounting block.

We insert a jumper (piece of wire) into the sockets of the power contacts of the relay “30” and “87”. We turn the key in the ignition switch to position “II” - “starter”. If the starter turns on, the power circuit is working, if not, then we check it with a tester...

...is “+12 V” supplied to socket “30” of the starter relay when the ignition key is in position “II”. In this case, the second (“negative”) tester probe can be connected to the head of the instrument panel mounting screw. If voltage is supplied to socket “30”, use a tester to check the integrity of the circuit from socket “87” of the starter relay to the tip of the starter traction relay control wire. If voltage is not supplied to socket “30,” we check the circuit from terminal “50” of the ignition switch to socket “30” of the relay. If the circuit is in good condition, it is necessary to replace the ignition switch contact group. If the starter power circuit is working properly, check the starter relay control circuit. To do this, insert the tester probe into socket “86” of the starter relay, connect the second probe to ground. With the ignition on, check...

...is “+12 V” supplied from the main relay of the engine management system to socket “86” of the starter relay. Then we insert the tester probes into the relay sockets “85” and “86” and check...

...is there ground in socket "85" of the relay... ...connected to terminal "50" of the controller. Otherwise, we check the integrity of the starter relay control circuits: from the main relay of the control system and output “50” of the controller - respectively to sockets “86” and “85” of the starter relay.

Features of mechanism diagnostics

How to diagnose a device to determine its performance:

1. Before removing the terminals from the battery, you need to turn off the ignition. The terminals are disconnected to prevent damage to the powertrain controller.
2. To get directly to the starter, you need to dismantle the air filter element housing with the inlet hose.
3. Having reached the mechanism, you should unscrew the conductive cable, in particular, we are talking about the thickest wire connected to the positive terminal of the battery. It is fixed on the top stud of the solenoid relay; to remove it, use a 13 key. Remove the cable, then set the gearbox to neutral.
4. Next, you will need a working battery; this is a prerequisite for diagnostics. If you are sure that your car is using a 100% working battery, then you can use it. Prepare a cable with alligator clips, connect it to the negative terminal of the battery, and the other end must be connected to the housing of the starter unit, in particular, to the bolt on it. Before direct connection, the connection point should be cleaned with a brush, this way you can ensure the best possible contact.
5. After completing these steps, another cable with a crocodile must be connected to the positive terminal of the battery. And its other end needs to be connected to the plus located on the back of the mechanism.
6. When connected, you should hear a click, indicating that the relay has activated. If there are no clicks, then it is necessary to diagnose the mass. Disconnect the wire from the housing and connect it to the bottom screw of the solenoid relay. Then the positive wire connected to the positive terminal again needs to be connected to the back of the device. If at this moment the solenoid relay still works, then most likely the problem lies in the failure of the brush assembly. If there are no clicks, that is, the relay did not work, then buy a new one and install it instead of the old one. The relay itself is not suitable for repair.
7. At the next stage, the wire with the crocodile “-” will need to be connected to the housing again. And the cable connected to the positive terminal of the battery connects to the bottom screw on the relay. At the moment of connection, the starter device should begin to rotate, and a characteristic sound will be heard. If the mechanism operates in normal mode, its speed can reach 11 thousand per minute. If the device turns very slowly, then most likely the problem lies in the brush assembly or jammed armature, of course, if the car battery is working and the wire connection is correct. If the starter does not spin at all, then most likely the reason should be sought in the winding.
8. To carry out a general check, the positive terminal must be connected to the upper stud of the relay, and then the contacts on this terminal and the “male” must be closed. If uncharacteristic sounds are heard when the starter is operating, check the gearbox or bendix.

Description of the Priorov starter

Before we talk about how to repair a starter, let's get acquainted with the basic description of the mechanism. Let's start with the purpose and location.

Purpose and location

An electric starter is a unit used to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy, which is necessary to start the engine. In fact, this mechanism is an electric DC motor equipped with a mechanical drive. The principle of operation of the device is to close the retractor and retainer coils, as well as move the core, which helps push out the bendix. As a result, the Bendix engages with the flywheel of the power unit, and under the influence of the anchor, this flywheel begins to spin. Accordingly, this leads to the engine starting. In Lada Priora cars, the starter unit is located on the gearbox, under the housing of the engine air filter element.

Which starter is better to install on Priora?

Today you can find many models of starters on sale from various manufacturers, but they are all divided into geared and gearless. Both one and the second type have both their advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of the gearless version is reliability and the ability to repair in case of breakdown, which is due to its fairly simple design. As for the disadvantages, such mechanisms are characterized by high voltage consumption and heavy weight.

Geared devices began to be used relatively recently; the addition of a gearbox to the design made it possible to improve the technical characteristics of the unit as a whole. The main advantage is considered to be higher reliability of engine starting, in particular at low temperatures. This advantage is achieved as a result of increased torque. The electric motor itself is smaller in size, but the rotation speed of the device is higher, and accordingly, less current is required to start the motor. In the production of geared devices, fewer expensive materials are used; accordingly, their cost is an order of magnitude lower than that of gearless ones.

As for directly choosing a starter, in practice geared devices are more reliable and fail much less frequently than gearless ones. But in this case, you need to remember that under no circumstances should you allow the starter mechanism to operate while the power unit is running. This is because the rotation frequency of the armature will be several times higher; accordingly, its conductors can come out of the grooves and touch the stationary components of the device, thus destroying its structure (video author - CompsMaster).

Basic faults

The starter has several basic faults that occur quite often.

• Battery;
• Solenoid relay;
• Brushes;
• Bendix;
• Rotor and stator windings;

If the starter does not rotate or clicks appear when you turn the ignition key, then the battery is most likely discharged. If the battery is charged, you should check the condition of the marks on it. Poor contact or oxide on the stamps will interfere with starting the car, since the starter requires a large current to rotate the engine, and weakening the contact of the stamps or their oxidation will increase the resistance, which will make it impossible to start the internal combustion engine.

battery

If the starter does not rotate or clicks appear when you turn the ignition key, then the battery is most likely discharged. If the battery is charged, you should check the condition of the marks on it. Poor contact or oxide on the stamps will interfere with starting the car, since the starter requires a large current to rotate the engine, and weakening the contact of the stamps or their oxidation will increase the resistance, which will make it impossible to start the internal combustion engine.

Retractor

If, when you turn the key, the starter rotates but does not start the engine, then the culprit is most likely the solenoid relay. The main culprit for relay failure is a break in its winding.

Brushes

Brushes are the most common starter element that fails. If they wear out, starting the engine is impossible, since they do not provide contact with the rotor commutator. When the brushes are worn down to 4 mm, they must be replaced.

Bendix

The Bendix is ​​a type of overrunning clutch that engages the gears with the flywheel. Its failure is a mechanical failure of the starter. It is impossible to repair it, just replace it with a new one.

Windings

The winding fails due to increased currents generated when the engine starts in cold weather or when the bendix jams. The wire wound on laminated steel simply cannot withstand such current surges and breaks. This can be solved by replacing the rotor or stator, and best of all the starter.

When is a starter check required?

During operation, the device may malfunction, and therefore the engine will be unable to start. The Lada Kalina car unit is characterized by the following signs of malfunction, suggesting the need for removal and diagnostics for the purpose of further repair or replacement:

• turning on the starter is accompanied by the shutdown of other devices operating at that time;
• when the device starts, reduced crankshaft speeds are observed, which is not enough to fully start the engine;
• turning the ignition key does not activate the starter;
• the unit shows signs of “viability”, but the motor flywheel does not rotate.

Next we will tell you how to remove and replace.

Replacement

Work on removing and installing the starter can be carried out without a higher education as a mechanic. Using the step-by-step instructions below, anyone who has ever held a key in their hands can cope with the task.

Necessary tool

• Phillips and flat head screwdriver
• Ratchet, extension and socket for “13mm” and “15mm”
• Open-end wrench for “10mm” and “13mm”
• Penetrating lubricant (WD-40)
• And the desire to repair your own car with your own hands.

Step-by-step replacement instructions

Work can be carried out both from the inspection hole and from above. We will consider the option of doing the work from above, as it is simpler and more convenient. And not everyone has an inspection hole.

• First of all, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and remove the air filter housing along with the mass air flow sensor.

• Then, on the solenoid relay, use a 13mm open-end wrench to unscrew the power wire and remove the “mother” chip from the relay (marked with red arrows in the picture).

• Using a ratchet with a 13mm socket and an extension, unscrew the two starter mounting nuts. Below and above.

• Next, we remove the starter from the engine compartment and inspect it.

• We install it in the reverse order and check its functionality by test running the car.

Replacement from under the bottom of the car is similar to the instructions outlined above, but only to carry out work from an inspection hole or overpass it is necessary to remove the engine crankcase protection.

Video “Dismantling, disassembling and assembling the starter”

Detailed instructions for dismantling the mechanism at home, disassembling it, repairing it and assembling it are given in the video below (the author of the video is Sergey Tsapyuk).

Guide about the Prior starter starter solenoid relay replacement - don’t pass it by. We have posted a video course on how to repair a car yourself. How to repair a car yourself at home. We will help you with repairs and repair the car yourself. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I have attached video instructions.

Category: DIY repairs

Laughter on the topic: - What would be so bad to do? - Move on with your life. - Option!

Published by Admin: at the request of Parfeniy

Car owner's assessment: Comfortable behind the wheel, high seating position, good visibility ahead, soft pedals, obedient, maneuverable - I can turn around almost everywhere without fear. The trunk is quite satisfactory, it was enough for us to go to and from the dacha, of course, if you don’t carry a lot of bulky cargo, but a couple of bags of potatoes fit comfortably. Here in Samara you can easily buy cheap spare parts for it, even non-original ones are easy to pick up...

In the summer I noticed one bad thing when starting the Priora: periodically, when turning the key, the starter did not work and a click was heard from under the hood. This especially often manifested itself for unknown reasons in rain or high humidity, the sin was that water got on the starter and jammed due to moisture. After digging through a bunch of pages of the Priora forum, I discovered that this problem worries more than just me, the terminals oxidize, rust, and for this reason the contact is lost. After reading a bunch of posts, I decided to buy the positive wires coming from the battery in advance and change them the other day in order to save myself from clicks during startup. But, as usual, I didn’t have time...

Replacing the Priora starter, main faults

The car starter starts the engine. The Priora will not start without his participation. Without it, starting a movement is simply impossible. Sometimes the Lada Priora does not start because the fuse has blown, or the starter relay has malfunctioned; it is marked K3. Sometimes it clicks but doesn't turn. The reasons are in the details.

The starter on a Priora consists of the following parts: bendex, retractor relay, armature and others - for a complete list of how many parts the starter of a Priora car contains, see the article below. It is advisable for car owners to know where this mechanism is located on a Lada Priora car - it is located immediately under the air filter.

The price of the part is a starter for a Priora engine (16 valves): from 2750 to 4500 rubles. When a breakdown occurs, the device on the Priora stops turning.

Standard starter and analogues - article number and price

Unfortunately, if the mechanism does not work, the problem can only be solved by replacing it. Neither installing new parts under the body, nor any cleaning will save the situation. The standard starter for a Priora with 16 valves goes under catalog number 2111.3708010-01, its cost is about 4,000 rubles. As analogues we can consider:

• "Baker." Article 5702370800010, costs 3,700 rubles;
• "Starvolt." Article lst0190, price - 3,200 rubles;
• Valeo. Article 438285, costs from 3,700 rubles;
• For automatic transmission, article number 219002370801000, costs from 3,900 rubles;
• "BATE". Article 51323708000, costs from 2,750 rubles;
• Gearbox – 51213708000bate, costs from 2950 rubles;
• "Kzate." Article 5702370800, costs from 3,300 rubles;
• Pramo (Eltra). Article TS12E901, price – 3,800 rubles;
• Fenox gearbox. Article 2110-3708010, price – 4,500 rubles.

Lada Priora starter: device and principle of operation

As mentioned earlier, this part can be installed on the Priora of two types: geared and gearless. Sometimes it may be necessary to remove the starter, note that it is located under the engine, on the right - closer to the space under the air filter.

To ensure that the starter unit does not wear out so quickly, it has a special mechanism that disengages the gear from the crankshaft flywheel - the Priora starter retractor relay. If it were not there, the service life of the unit would be greatly reduced, or repairs would be required.

Geared

This mechanism is small in size. It turns out this way because the gearbox allows you to increase or decrease the torque. The planetary gearbox itself in the car in question is located between the armature and the bendix; it serves as a “buffer” and an intermediate part between them. Thus, it does not take up so much space in the case, under which there are:

• bendix;
• fork;
• anchor;
• stator;
• solenoid relay;
• mask;
• gearbox

Its main difference is that the bendix is ​​fixed on its own shaft, and it interacts with the Priora engine through a gearbox.

Gearless

A gearless starter is much larger than its counterpart, but it does the same job of receiving electrical energy from the battery and sending it to the crankshaft to start the engine. It consists of the following components:

• relay;
• an electric motor containing the traction relay cores and winding;
• brushes and holders, “brush assembly”;
• solenoid relay;
• stator;
• fork;
• contact bolts;
• anchor;
• starter mask;
• retaining ring;
• freewheel;
• front bushing and rear bushing;
• starter bendix Priora;
• gear.

The gearbox operates according to the following algorithm:

1. Power is supplied from the battery through the wiring harness.
2. The anchor is retracted.
3. The Bendix is ​​attached to the gear, “thrown out”, the pin contacts are closed, and voltage is applied to them.
4. The armature rotates, the torque is transmitted to the bendix, through it to the gear, and it is already in contact with the engine flywheel.
5. As soon as the ignition key is released, the retractor relay disconnects the bendix and the gear.

Basic faults

Externally, a breakdown of the Priora starter can be recognized by the following signs:

• “turns” and at the same time starts the engine;
• does not “twist”;
• continues to “twist” after the key is released;
• creaks, clicks are heard;
• It spins, but for too long.

• The reason may lie in a faulty battery, in the starter itself and fuses. The most common are those that are most likely to disable
• the car – it’s worth taking a closer look.

Doesn't turn on

If the engine does not start, the problem may be:

1. discharged or broken battery;
2. no closure of contacts 50 and 30;
3. terminals or tips are oxidized;
4. interturn closure;
5. short circuit to ground;
6. open circuit “starter - traction relay”;
7. the ignition module is faulty;
8. break in the traction relay winding;
9. brush wear;
10. the anchor jams;
11. the additional relay or the control circuit connected to it is damaged.

How to get rid of unnecessary details

Under the hood of the Kalina-2 it is easy to find an air filter module that prevents access to the unit we need. This module must be moved to the side, but first the air intake sleeve must be disconnected.

Black box – filter module

The sleeve itself, attached to the bottom of the module, is simply pulled in the “left” direction. The whole process looks like this:

Remove the sleeve from the pipe

Just in case, here is a drawing of the node in question:

Filter module design

The figure shows the connector installed on the top of the module. The plug from this connector is also first disconnected, but first, the negative terminal is removed from the battery. Why do this, we discussed earlier. It turns out that there will be three preparatory steps: disconnecting the battery terminal, removing the sleeve from the filter side, disconnecting the plug.

Starter problems and their elimination

If the starter clicks but does not turn, then first of all attention should be paid to the battery. Most likely, its charge is not enough to start the car. You should also inspect the condition of the terminals. More rarely, the culprit for clicking is the traction relay.

If the starter does not turn the crankshaft of the power plant, then conditionally possible causes can be divided into mechanical and electrical. The first most often includes problems with the clutch or drive gear. If there are any malfunctions, the listed elements must be replaced.

In the electrical part, the weak point is the brushes. They are the most susceptible to wear and tear. When the remaining length of the brushes begins to be 4 mm or less, they must be replaced.

How to change the solenoid relay?

One of the main parts of any starter is the solenoid relay, which is located next to it. This mechanism performs two functions at once:

• supplies voltage to the stator and rotor windings;
• moves the bendix, which engages the starter gear with the flywheel crown.

1. Frame.
2. Two threaded power contacts.
3. There is a coil inside.
4. The core is made of metal, which is affected by the electromagnetic field of the coil. It also has a kind of “hook” for connecting to the bendix.
5. Contact Group.

To replace the solenoid relay you need keys 10 and 13, as well as a screwdriver. First you need to disconnect the battery.

To do this, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the terminal. Then you can proceed to disconnect the solenoid relay. To do this, use a 13 mm wrench to unscrew the two nuts on the power contacts. The relay is attached to the starter housing using 2-3 bolts (depending on the specific design). They need to be unscrewed using a screwdriver. This completes the dismantling; installation of the new relay is carried out in the reverse order.

Principle of operation

It all works like this: when the engine is not running, the armature of the retractor relay is pulled out of the housing due to the action of the spring on it. The same spring holds the Bendix and gear through the fork in a position where there is no engagement.

When the ignition key is turned to the start position, the solenoid relay is first activated.

The electrical energy supplied to the coils of the solenoid relay ensures the appearance of a magnetic field inside the housing.

This field acts on the armature, and it, overcoming the force of the spring, enters the body, after which the retracting coil is turned off and ceases to create a magnetic field, but in the retracted position the armature is held by the holding coil with its magnetic field.

In this case, the armature pulls the fork, which in turn moves the bendix forward along the rotor shaft, and its gear engages with the flywheel ring.

The armature, entering the housing, pushes the starter relay rod, and, moving, closes the contact plates of the positive terminals with each other.

Electricity from the battery is supplied to the brushes of the starter motor, and its rotor begins to rotate. And since the gear has already engaged, the rotor begins to rotate the flywheel.

After starting the power plant and turning the ignition key back, the power to the holding coil stops, its magnetic field disappears and the armature comes out of the housing under the influence of a spring.

At the same time, it disengages the bendix through the fork and stops acting on the relay rod. He, in turn, moving away, opens the contact plates, and the starter is completely turned off.

How to remove the starter for replacement or repair?

Now let's talk about the case when it is necessary to completely remove the starter on a Priora. There may be several reasons for this - from repairing the clutch to replacing the starter itself. But if the reason lies in the fact that the car cannot be started, it is worth checking whether the starter is really to blame. Quite often the reason lies in other nodes. And if the Priora does not start, the starter is not always to blame.

In order to dismantle the mechanism, you will need to perform simple manipulations:

1. Turn off the power - use a 10mm wrench to loosen the terminal.
2. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nuts that secure the starter housing to the engine block.
3. Using the same wrench, unscrew the nuts on the solenoid relay.
4. Remove the wire from the relay.
5. Remove the starter through the bottom or top (provided that the air purification filter housing is removed).

Typically, repairing a starter on a Priora consists of changing the brushes, cleaning the lamellas, installing a new bendix and retractor relay. If there is severe damage to the housing or windings, then it will be more effective not to repair, but to completely replace the unit.

Lada Largus

Remove the cover (if equipped) of the electronic control unit (ECM) by releasing the two fasteners (flat-head screwdriver). Unscrew the 2 nuts (No. 1) securing the expansion tank (No. 2) (10mm wrench). Remove and move the expansion tank to the side without disconnecting the hoses.

For configurations with JR5 gearbox:

• disconnect the hinges (No. 1) of the gear selection and shift cables from the gearbox (flat-head screwdriver);
• press the clamps on both sides and disconnect the stoppers of the sheaths of the selection and shift cables from the gearbox bracket.

For configurations with JH3 gearbox:

• remove the cover (No. 1) of the gearshift drive rod joint;
• Unscrew the bolt (No. 2) securing the gear shift rod, remove the spacer sleeve and disconnect the rod (10mm wrench).

Unscrew the 3 bolts (No. 1) securing the starter (head “13”).

Raise the car and unscrew the nut (No. 2) securing the bracket (No. 4) to the intake manifold (No. 3) (head “13”). Unscrew the bolt (No. 6) securing the bracket (No. 4) to the cylinder block (No. 5) (head “17”). Remove the bracket (No. 4) that mounts the intake manifold (No. 3).

Unscrew the nut (No. 2), Figure 3-7, and disconnect the harness (No. 1), Figure 3-6, of the ignition system wires from the starter (No. 3) (head “10”).

Unscrew the nut (No. 4), Figure 3-7, securing the starter wire (No. 5) ("10" head). Disconnect the starter wire. Unscrew the nut (No. 3) securing the starter electromagnetic relay wire (No. 5) (head “8”). Remove the starter.

The process is also shown in the video: