How to change spark plugs for Lada Kalina

Replacing spark plugs

Since my Kalina’s mileage has long exceeded 30,000 km, I decided to replace the factory spark plugs with new ones, although, to be honest, the factory ones still felt fine.
In cold weather it started up to -20 the first time, and if the thermometer dropped even lower, then the second time. At idle, of course, the tachometer needle floated a little, but it was barely noticeable to the eye. In short, we could still drive, but since it is written in the Murzilka - change it after 30,000 km, then we will follow its instructions and recommendations. It didn’t take long to choose a company, since most car owners speak quite well about NGK spark plugs, and the main thing here is not to run into a fake. If you have a 16-valve Lada Kalina, then you need to take NGK No. 11, and if you have a regular 8-valve engine, then No. 13. I’ll describe the whole procedure a little, maybe this information will be useful for girls or beginners.

NGK vs Brisk: experiment with increasing spark plug gap

A couple of months ago I wrote a topic about replacing spark plugs on my Kalina. Instead of the factory ones, Brisk decided to try another manufacturer, namely NGK, there were too many positive reviews about them. As always, I bought a set of spark plugs from BB and replaced them. I did not set the gap, since the manufacturer assures that everything is already set for ideal engine operation.

After the replacement, no more than 1000 km passed and the first cylinder began to break through, this was especially noticeable at idle speed, when sharp dips in engine operation were felt. I opened the hood and saw that the spark plug had burst all around, which I previously wrote an article about. If you are interested, you can search in this section, there is a photo there. And instead I decided to put back the factory Birsk, which, although it was already red from long-term use, worked perfectly.

Since it’s almost summer outside now, the usual bubbling and diesel noise of a 1.6 8-valve engine should, in theory, not be present, especially on a warm engine. But on my Kalina, for some reason, this bubbling noise was present even on a well-warmed-up engine, although this was not observed before installing NGK spark plugs. So today I decided to unscrew them and look at their condition. In appearance, everything was fine with them, but then I noticed that the gap on the factory Brisks was larger. I took out old spark plugs from the glove compartment and decided to use them to set the same gap on my NGKs. Pay attention to the photo below:

On the left are the factory Brisks, and on the right are the new NGKs

After doing this work, I decided to start the car and try to warm it up to operating temperature in order to evaluate how much the new gap affected engine performance. I drove to a gas station about 20 km from the city. And this is the conclusion I can draw:

Diesel production stopped when the engine was fully warmed up.
The engine sound has become quieter, especially when idling.
I was pleasantly surprised by the fuel consumption. If with a small spark plug gap it was 5.8 - 6.2 liters, then after increasing it to the factory Brisk, it became 4.8 - 5.2. Tested at a speed of 90 km/h. Moreover, during today's tests there was wind.

I concluded for myself that you should not blindly trust the manufacturer and it is better to set the required gap yourself and experiment a little, changing everything up or down. NGK brand products have now become even more wary, since this is already the second case with negative consequences.

ladakalinablog.ru

The procedure for replacing spark plugs on a Lada Kalina:

Before this procedure, it is advisable to wipe everything well and clean it from possible oil stains or dust so that no debris gets inside the cylinder. Now we need either a spark plug wrench or a 21mm long socket.

We remove the wires one by one, you will have to make a little effort, since they fit quite tightly.

Personally, my electrode condition was normal, there were no deposits, oil film or soot on them, the only thing was that there was a reddish coating. And this is also not very good and indicates that the fuel with which I fueled my Kalina contained iron-containing additives, the so-called ferrocenes. This can lead to misfire, loss of power and increased fuel consumption.

When we screw in new spark plugs, it is best to first tighten them by hand, and only then use a wrench. Although, it is quite difficult to mix up the wires! But I remember an incident with my father’s VAZ 2112 16-valve, when we put the wires on incorrectly and started the car - it worked like a tractor, all the cylinders were out of tune. After you have installed a new spark plug, put on the wire and carry out exactly the same operation with the remaining cylinders!

That's all! Tighten it better so that no air is allowed to pass through, otherwise over time the spark plug may tear out along with the thread, then you will have to spend another certain amount of money on repairs, but do you need it? At the end of my topic, I would like to arrange a short survey about who uses which companies, besides NGK, and what are their impressions? Let's discuss in the comments below!

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Prevention

To avoid replacing spark plugs frequently, watch what you put into the tank and avoid “left-handed” gas stations.
Check the condition of the spark plugs regularly, for example, every 5 thousand km. This will save you from excessive fuel consumption and unpleasant surprises on the road, especially in winter.
Buy a set of spark plugs and carry them with you, as they say, just in case.
Monitor the engine oil level and condition.
Buy only high-quality spark plugs, preferably those recommended by the manufacturer of your car, but this does not mean that others are contraindicated for you. You have the right to choose similar spark plugs, the main thing is that they match the parameters (operating temperature, heat rating, number of side electrodes, thread diameter, etc.). Leading manufacturers of spark plugs: NGK, BOSCH, Brisk, DENSO.

I have everything, I hope you will draw the right conclusions. Those who liked the article can express their gratitude in the comments. Those who didn't like it can also express disagreement. If you think that the article is incomplete, please feel free to supplement me, again using the comment form. Bye everyone, see you again at VAZ Repair. Take care of yourself and your VAZ!

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2302-3-2-09-06 (Copy)

When installing the spark plug, you must screw it in by hand to avoid damaging the threads of the spark plug hole in the cylinder head.

If the spark plug does not follow the thread, strong resistance to rotation will be felt. In this case, it is necessary to completely unscrew the spark plug and, after cleaning the threads, re-tighten it.

Finally tighten the spark plug to a torque of 25–30 N. m.

Attention! Over-tightening the spark plugs can damage the threads in the spark plug holes in the cylinder head.

We replace the remaining spark plugs in the same way.

On an 8-valve engine

Tools and accessories for car repair

To maintain a car and perform the most common repair work, it is enough to have a set of universal tools, the basis of which should be a standard set of socket wrenches with interchangeable heads. It is desirable that it be as complete as possible. Missing tools can be purchased separately (see below).

Special tools (specialized wrenches, pullers, measuring tools and other devices) are required when performing only some repair work, and therefore are used infrequently. You can purchase them as needed. At the same time, it is advisable to have a hydrometer, multimeter, and caliper (the last two can be useful not only when repairing a car, but also in everyday life). It should be taken into account that a number of operations are difficult and sometimes impossible to perform without a special tool.

Some types of work are performed using personal protective equipment (for more details, see “Safety measures when servicing and repairing a vehicle”). Therefore, along with a set of tools, prepare gloves or mittens, safety glasses or a mask (a transparent shield that completely covers the face).

UNIVERSAL TOOL

1. A set of socket wrenches with replaceable heads. The kit must include a set of interchangeable heads with dimensions from 10 to 32 mm, for a 1/2″ (0.5 inch) connecting square. It is advisable that this kit includes a full range of metric-size working profiles, as well as a special 16 or 21 mm (a deep socket with a rubber ring inserted inside to hold the spark plug when removing it). It is also desirable to have a second set of sockets measuring from 6 to 14 mm for a smaller fitting size (1/4″) and an additional set of deep sockets of 8, 10, 12 and 13 mm for loosening nuts from long studs. It is very convenient to work if the set includes ratchet wrenches (ratchets). They allow you to quickly unscrew and tighten fasteners.

To avoid damaging the ratchet, do not use ratchets to loosen or final tighten bolts and nuts.

Since the car uses TORX bolts, as well as internal hex bolts, the kit should include sets of appropriate sockets and sockets, as well as sockets with a working profile for Phillips and slotted screwdrivers.

2. A driver with a hinge and a long handle. It is necessary for unscrewing large-diameter threaded connections when significant forces must be applied (for example, when unscrewing the front wheel hub nut).

3. Combination kit

wrenches (open-end and cap) with dimensions from 6 to 32 mm. It is advisable that the entire range of metric size keys (every 1 mm) be available.

Open-end wrenches are not designed to apply significant force to fasteners, as this will crush the edges of the bolts and nuts. Tightening or loosening with such wrenches should only be done when it is impossible to do this with socket or socket wrenches.

4. A set of spanners. It is useful to supplement a set of combination wrenches with socket wrenches of the most popular sizes: 10, 12, 13, 15, 17, 19, 22 and 24 mm.

5. A set of hex keys ranging in size from 2 to 12 mm.

6. Torque wrench. Designed for final tightening of threaded connections with a regulated torque.

7. A set of Phillips and slotted screwdrivers, varying in size and length. It is very convenient if, when performing repairs, you have a large selection of screwdrivers with blades of different lengths and widths.

8. Hammers. It is advisable to have several hammers with a steel head weighing 200, 500, 1000 g, and, in addition, with a plastic or rubber head.

9. Nippers (side cutters), pliers, pliers with curved jaws.

10. Awl.

I. Soft metal knockouts (brass, copper, aluminum rods) for knocking out axles and shafts.

12. A set of steel drifts and bits for knocking out pins, cotter pins , etc.

13. Chisel. It is better to purchase two or three chisels with different blade widths. It is advisable to have a long chisel for working in hard-to-reach places.

14. A hacksaw for metal, a set of needle files and files.

15. Mounting blade. You should have a set of two or three blades of different lengths that can be used as levers.

16. Sliding pliers.

17. Metal brushes.

18. Electric drill with a set of metal drills (up to 013 mm).

19. Bench vice. The vice must be securely fastened to the workbench.

SPECIAL TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES

1. Rolling hydraulic jack. A standard jack is often either inconvenient or simply useless when performing some jobs.

2. Car stands, adjustable in height and with a permissible load of at least 1 ton. It is advisable to have four such stands.

3. Wheel chocks (at least 2 pcs.).

4. Double-sided wrenches for 8 and 10 mm brake system fittings. Slotted spanner. The clamping wrench allows you to unscrew fittings with worn edges. In order to put the key on the brake pipe fitting, you need to unscrew the coupling bolt. A socket wrench with a slot allows you to do the job more quickly, but such a wrench must be made of high-quality steel with appropriate heat treatment.

5. A special key for adjusting the tension of the timing belt.

6. 24 mm octagonal head wrench for disassembling the steering mechanism.

7. Flat wrench with ratchet mechanism and removable tips. Can be used in hard-to-reach places as a flat-head reversible screwdriver.

8. Pullers for removing retaining rings. There are two types of such pullers: for removing circlips from holes and for removing circlips from shafts, axles, and rods. These pullers come with straight and curved jaws

9. Specialist. pliers for installing clamps

10. Puller for pressing out ball joint pins and tie rod ends.

11. Oil filter puller.

12. Universal three-jaw pullers for removing pulleys, hubs, gears.

13. Universal puller with narrow jaws for removing couplings, gears, bearing rings. The design of the puller allows you to combine it by installing two or three grips.

14. Tools for replacing wheel bearings. The kit includes a bearing inner race puller and a device for removing and pressing in wheel bearings.

15. Universal cup puller for removing and pressing in wheel bearings and rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) of levers.

16. Puller and mandrel for replacing valve stem seals.

17. Set for compressing springs and decompressing valves of the gas distribution mechanism.

18. Device for grinding valves.

19. Special 22 mm socket or socket wrenches for unscrewing the oxygen concentration sensor.

20. Tweezers.

21. Ties for suspension springs.

22. Impact screwdriver with a set of attachments.

23. Digital multimeter (tester) for testing sensors and electrical circuits.

24. A special 12 V probe or test lamp for checking live electrical circuits of the car.

25. Pressure gauge for checking tire pressure (if there is no pressure gauge on the tire pump).

26. Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the engine fuel rail.

27. Pressure gauge for checking the pressure in the engine lubrication system.

28. Compression gauge for checking the pressure in the engine cylinders.

29. Bore gauge for measuring the diameter of cylinders.

30. Vernier caliper with depth gauge.

31 . Micrometers with measuring ranges of 0–25, 25–50 and 50–75 mm.

32 . A set of round feeler gauges for checking the gap between the spark plug electrodes. You can use a combination key to service the ignition system with a set of necessary probes. The key has special slots for bending the side electrode of the spark plug.

33. A set of flat feeler gauges for measuring gaps when assessing the technical condition of units.

34. Mandrel for centering the clutch driven disc.

35. Technological mandrel for

fixing the differential side gear. The mandrel is installed in the gearbox hole after removing both drives to prevent the side gears from falling out of the differential.

36. Mandrel for crimping piston rings.

37 . A hydrometer for measuring the density of a liquid (electrolyte in a battery or antifreeze in an expansion tank).

38. A special device with metal brushes for caring for wire terminals and battery terminals.

39 — Magnet on a telescopic pointer for removing small metal objects from hard-to-reach places.

40. Oil syringe for pouring oil into the gearbox housing.

Since the oil in the gearbox is rarely replaced and it is poured from above through the hole of the level indicator, instead of an oil syringe, you can use a funnel with a plastic tube 50-60 cm long attached to it.

41. Hose for pumping fuel. The hoses can be used to remove fuel from the tank before removing it.

42. Wide and narrow metalworker’s (metal) rulers for checking planes.

43 . Device for disassembling suspension struts. The device consists of two elements: the inner element is designed to hold the shock absorber rod (6 and 10 mm), and the outer element is designed to unscrew its nut ( 17 and 22 mm).

44. Technical hair dryer (heat gun). Necessary for heating parts during installation and dismantling (for example, heat-shrinkable tubes during electrical wiring repairs).

45. When performing work, you may also need: a clamp, a tape measure, a household steelyard, a wide container for draining oil and coolant with a volume of at least 10 liters, a medical syringe or a bulb for collecting liquid.

2279-4-12-02 (Copy)

When installing the spark plug, you must screw it in by hand to avoid damaging the threads of the spark plug hole in the cylinder head.

Finally tighten the spark plug to a torque of 31–39 N. m.

Attention! Over-tightening the spark plugs can damage the threads in the spark plug holes in the cylinder head.

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How do spark plugs work?

Spark plugs are a device for igniting the fuel-air mixture in an engine. They consist of a metal body, an insulator and a central conductor. They are located in the spark plug wells, which, in turn, are located in the engine cylinder heads. High-voltage wires are attached to the top, supplying voltage to the spark gap.

Experienced motorists advise changing them every 20 - 30 thousand kilometers. Or earlier if the condition of these parts requires it. Thus, the need to replace spark plugs on Kalina may be indicated by problems with the starter, a decrease in engine power, car twitching and vibration when driving.

Which spark plugs are best for an 8-valve Kalina

AvtoVAZ recommends several options for spark plugs.

A17DVRM

The most budget option is spark plugs A27ДМРВ produced by JSC Robert Bosch Saratov.

German candles from the company BERU–14R-7DU ;
Japanese NGK–BPR6ES (very frequent replacement, good spark plugs according to reviews);

Candles NGK–BPR6ES in branded packaging in bright colors.

Another Japanese company is DENSO W20EPR ;
CHAMPION (England) – RN9YC ;
From the Czech company BRISK you should take a closer look at the article number LR15YC ;
BOSCH (Germany) – WR7DC .

Iridium spark plugs

NGK – BPR6EIX11 ;
DENSO – IW20TT .

The process of replacing spark plugs

Before the replacement procedure, it is advisable to blow out or wipe the casing and cylinder head. This is done to prevent dust, dirt and debris from entering the engine block, which can lead to catastrophic consequences.

For work we will need: a 10 mm socket, a spark plug wrench or a 16 socket with an extension (For eight-valve engines you will need a 21 socket with an extension).

Step-by-step instructions for replacing spark plugs on a Kalina with a 16-valve engine

With a sharp jerk upward, remove the plastic engine casing.
We disconnect the wires from the ignition coils, then use a 10 mm wrench to unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the coils from the spark plug well.
We unscrew the spark plug with a 16mm wrench and insert a new one.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing spark plugs on a Kalina with an 8-valve engine

Remove the wire end (don't be afraid to use a little force).
We unscrew the spark plug with a 21 key and replace it with a new one.

When installing candles, you should not use excessive force, otherwise you can break the thread of the well, which can lead to costly repairs. In Kalina, replacement of spark plugs for 1.4 liter and 1.6 liter engines is similar.

How to get rid of unnecessary details

Any 16-valve engine has a plastic protection installed on top. But the protective cover can always be removed by simply pulling the part up. By the way, the rubber supports on the covers of motors 21126 and 21127 will be the same (see figure).

It is recommended to unscrew the filler plug, but you can leave it in place. The lid must be pulled up, snapping off the supports one by one.

Everything looks more complicated than it actually turns out to be. Try it!

Actions before replacement

First of all, we recommend disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. To do this you need a key “10”. Then disconnect the ignition coil connectors. The appearance of one connector is shown below.

By pressing the latch, the connector is pulled up

Next, taking a TORX E-8 wrench, unscrew the screw securing the coil.

The coil itself can be pulled out by holding it by the connector body.

The connector will not break, try it

Finally, the engine is ready to replace the spark plugs. This process is discussed further.

Do not allow dust to get into the spark plug well! If necessary, you can use a can of compressed air.

Possible breakdowns and their causes

There are many reasons why spark plugs can fail. This can happen due to contamination with oil or carbon deposits, destruction of the insulator, mechanical damage, rupture of the jumper, etc. Realistically, you can only deal with pollution. In all other cases, you will have to think about replacing the part.

There are three main cleaning methods: boiling method, sandblasting method and ultrasonic cleaning method. Due to the fact that ultrasonic cleaning requires specialized equipment, we will focus on the two remaining methods.

Digestion method

The essence of this method is that you need to boil the candles in water with washing powder for an hour. This method will allow you to clean the part from dirt without damaging the housing. It is worth noting that after cleaning they produce an unstable yellow spark, which can cause problems at high speeds.

Sandblasting method

The part is cleaned with compressed air supplied from a sandblasting machine. Unlike the first method, after such cleaning the candles completely restore their original parameters and give a good blue spark. However, this method only works with single-electrode ones, since the ceramic cone is more accessible in them than in multi-electrode ones.

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AVTOVAZ instructions for replacing spark plugs and coils on a VAZ engine

According to the regulations, replacement of spark plugs on VAZ engines of front-wheel drive LADA cars is provided every 30 thousand km. mileage How to replace spark plugs and individual ignition coils (IIC) with your own hands is described in the factory’s technological instructions.

1. Unscrew bolts 4, Figure 5, and disconnect ignition coils 5 from spark plugs 6 (replaceable Torx E8 head, wrench).

2. Remove the spark plugs (spark plug key 16).

1. Install spark plugs 6, Figure 5, and tighten with a torque of 20…30 N∙m (2.0…3.0 kgf∙m) (replaceable high head 16, extension, wrench, torque wrench).

2. Before installing the ignition coils, apply lubricant type NIINP-233 TU 38.101687 1 mm thick to the inner surface of the rubber seal of the spark plug. The consumption rate is 1 g per engine.

3. Install ignition coils 5, tighten with fastening bolts. The tightening torque of the ignition coil mounting bolt is 4…8 N∙m (0.4…0.8 kgf∙m) (replaceable Torx E8 head, extension, wrench, torque wrench).

How to tighten a spark plug with the required torque without a torque wrench

experts from the magazine “Behind the Wheel” said:

1. Tighten the spark plug by hand until the washer touches the wall.

2. Tighten the new spark plug by 200-220 degrees or tighten the previously installed spark plug (the ring is already crimped) by about 30 degrees.

Do you use a torque wrench when replacing spark plugs?

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If the engine in your car runs unevenly, stalls, stalls, or has low idle speeds, then the cause may be the spark plugs. The article “How to determine the condition of spark plugs on a Kalina” will help you determine this more accurately. As a rule, spark plugs are changed every 40 thousand km. But replacing spark plugs may be required more often, depending on the quality of the spark plugs themselves, the quality of the fuel used and engine wear. When using gas as fuel, it is recommended to change spark plugs every 10 thousand km. In this article you can learn more about how to replace spark plugs.

Attention! Spark plugs are changed all together. Even if only one of them is faulty, the other three that are working should also be replaced.

We take a ratchet wrench with a special head for spark plugs No. 21. Unscrew the spark plug by turning the key counterclockwise.

We take a new candle and compare it with the old one. They must be the same. Insert into the mounting hole. And turn it by hand a couple of turns clockwise. This must be done by hand so that the candle is guaranteed to be wrapped along the thread.

We finally clamp the spark plug with a key with a little force. We put on a high-voltage wire. Ready.

We change the other three candles in the same way.

Now we start the engine and check if it works normally. Fine. Close the hood and you're good to go.

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How long does it take to change spark plugs?

If the car is new, it is recommended to change the spark plugs during regular maintenance at the dealer, after 10 thousand km, this will ensure proper engine running-in and smooth operation.
If the car has significant mileage, but you care about how much the engine consumes per 100 km, how it works and how your car accelerates, then it is better to change the spark plugs after 20-30 thousand km. mileage, provided that the candles themselves are able to cover this mileage. If the spark plugs are of high quality, then most likely they will be able to run for 30 thousand.
If the car is used regularly, the operating conditions are not the best, and the fuel is either bad or very bad, it is better to change the spark plugs more often, for example, every 10-15 thousand km. Moreover, taking into account all the above arguments, it is also recommended to replace the fuel filter more often.

Many people who “understand” the issue of spark plugs, and cars in general, are now probably nervously grimacing and complaining, saying, why change them if the engine already works like a clock? There are some, right? So, indeed, some spark plugs and motors are truly capable of demonstrating iron endurance, but only SOME . Are you sure that your engine or spark plugs are exactly like this? Is not a fact! The fact is that it is not so easy to notice even a slightly increased “eating” of fuel, and if the BC does not yet show consumption, then it is completely impossible. Perhaps for some this “insignificant” does not play any role, but if you add up +1-3 liters for every hundred mileage. If this doesn’t scare you, then calculate how much you will overpay per 1,000 or 10,000 km. As for me, taking into account fuel prices, the figure will be an impressive one, so, whatever one may say, it will be cheaper to replace the spark plugs ahead of schedule. This way, you will save money and enjoy the engine, which in turn will not fail at the most inopportune moment.

How to replace spark plugs in Lada Kalina

Replacing spark plugs is an important procedure that is performed every 30 thousand km or in case of their malfunction. The reason why spark plugs are replaced unscheduled may be unstable engine operation, excessive fuel consumption or poor engine starting. In addition, poor throttle response or when the engine stalls can be evidence of faulty spark plugs. You can even determine the condition of the spark plugs by external signs; below I will give a table by which you can decide whether you need to replace the spark plugs or not.

Today I will talk about how to replace spark plugs on a VAZ 2170, 2171, 2172 (Lada Priora 16 valve)

Before you start replacing, take care of new spark plugs, choose one you like from the options in the auto store.

Replacing spark plugs on a Lada Priora is impossible without a special 16″ socket wrench with an extension. There must be a magnet in the spark plug wrench or head so that the spark plugs can be held suspended.

Selection of components

Symptoms of incorrectly selected spark plugs:

From the factory, “AU17DVRM” spark plugs will be installed on any VAZ 16-valve engine. They are produced in Saratov under license from BOSCH. There are also two complete analogues recommended by VAZ: DR15YC-1 (BRISK), as well as FR7DCU (BOSCH).

Products

In winter, you can switch to a lower heat rating - “AU14DVRM” candles are suitable. All analogues are presented in the table.

Hi all. Today we will replace spark plugs on a second generation Lada Kalina with a sixteen valve engine.

I recommend buying Denso candles. Inexpensive and go from replacement to replacement without problems. Order number: Q20PR-U11 .

To replace spark plugs you will need:

open-end wrench for ten
seven-head wrench
a long spark plug wrench because the wells are deep