Generator VAZ 21099, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108: which one is installed, replacement

The VAZ 2108 device, like any other vehicle, involves powering electrical circuits from a battery. To ensure that the battery is always in good condition and does not let you down at the most inopportune moment, a generator is always connected to it.

The battery is especially important when the engine is ignited; while driving, when the car develops sufficient speed, the entire electrical circuit is powered by the generator.

When the question arises about connecting additional powerful electrical appliances to the car, it is very important to match their load with the permissible power of the generator. To do this, it is important to know its technical characteristics. And if the battery lack of charge indicator suddenly lights up, it’s better not to even look under the hood without understanding how the electrical charging circuit, voltage regulator and ignition work.

After reading today's article to the end, you will learn about the connection diagram and dimensions of the VAZ 2108 generator, the main reasons for failure and how to check the voltage in the circuit. If trouble happens to the generator, then don’t worry, we will clearly show you the process of removing and installing it.

Why is a generator needed?

It is needed to power the on-board network when the engine is running. When stopped, the entire network is powered by a battery. If you yourself replaced the VAZ-2108 generator or any other car, you saw that it has one power terminal. Several wires are connected to it:

1. The thickest one connects the generator to the positive terminal of the battery. It is through this wire that the battery is charged. Please note that there are no fuses on it. Therefore, during any manipulations with the generator, it is necessary to de-energize the on-board network.
2. A thin short wire going to the voltage regulator is necessary to power the excitation winding.
3. It is rare, but it happens that additional equipment is connected to this output of the generator.

The cars use a rather old but proven design of the VAZ-2108 generator. The carburetor is used in the fuel injection system. On injection cars, fuel injectors and ignition coils are powered from the power output of the generator. All other consumers take power from the positive terminal of the battery.

Technical characteristics of generator 37.3701

— The magnitude of the delivered current (at 6000 rpm-1 and voltage 13 V) – 55 A

— Voltage value – 13.6 – 14.6 V

— The direction of rotation of the rotor is right

— Maximum rotor speed – 13000 rpm-1

— Gear ratio engine/generator 1/2.04

Car generator operation

But there is no magnet in the generator; its functions are performed by the excitation winding. The states can be briefly described as follows:

1. When the engine is stopped and the ignition is turned off, all vehicle systems are de-energized and no voltage is supplied to the excitation winding.
2. When you turn on the ignition, constant voltage is supplied to the regulator.
3. The voltage regulator allows you to stabilize the value at the same level.
4. Next, the current is transmitted through the brushes and slip rings to the rotor winding.
5. A magnetic field appears, but it is stationary, so no voltage is generated at the power terminal. But it is there, since this terminal is electrically connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
6. As soon as you start turning the crankshaft with the starter (or even by pushing the car), the alternator rotor rotates and current is produced.

After starting the engine, the generator takes on the main load of powering electricity consumers, while the battery is charged at this time.

Generator output voltage, purpose of voltage regulator

The voltage that should operate in automotive electrical equipment is selected based on the fact that the battery itself has an EMF of 12.6 Volts, and to charge it it is necessary to maintain a voltage of approximately 14 Volts. All electrical equipment is designed for this voltage.

In order to maintain this voltage, a voltage regulator is built into the generator. The principle of operation of the voltage regulator is that it turns the excitation current in the rotor on and off. The generator constantly strives to raise the voltage, and the regulator, when the voltage exceeds 14.2 Volts, turns off the rotor, the excitation current decreases and the generator voltage decreases, the regulator turns on the excitation current again and allows the voltage to rise a little, then turns it off again, this repeats all the time and therefore the voltage is maintained at the desired level.

Removing the generator on the “eight”

To dismantle the unit for replacement or repair, you will need “17” keys and a mounting blade. Before starting work, be sure to generously treat all threaded connections to facilitate dismantling. The procedure looks like this:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Unscrew the top nut securing the generator housing to the bracket.
3. Unscrew the nut on the lower mounting bolt.
4. Slide the generator housing towards the engine block and remove the belt.
5. Unscrew the nut from the power contact and move the wires to the side.
6. Remove the lower mounting bolt.

After all these manipulations, you can completely dismantle the unit. This can be done either from below, if protection is not installed on the car, or from above.

Generator Modifications

On newer VAZ-2109, 21099, 2110 cars, modifications of generators with the designation 94.3701 were installed. Their power is much higher than those used on eights. But the dimensions of the VAZ-2108 generator are the same as those of more modern ones installed on dozens. Therefore, they are interchangeable, but have different characteristics. Here are the differences:

1. The current strength of 94.3701 is 80 A, which is 25 A higher than that of the figure-eight unit.
2. The voltage adjustment range on the 94.3701 generator is larger.
3. The gear ratio between the generator rotor and the engine crankshaft is higher.

Installing a new unit is advisable if a larger capacity battery is used, and in the system of electricity consumers there are a lot of those that have greater power. And if you use standard electric cars, the battery will be discharged and will not have enough current.

Replacing valves

You can use a multimeter to check the serviceability of all valves and replace the faulty ones. Usually only two fail. But a prerequisite for the ideal operation of the rectifier is that the resistance of all semiconductors must be the same. Otherwise, there will be more tension in one shoulder and less in the other. Carefully read how the VAZ-2108 generator is connected so that you don’t confuse anything during assembly.

The easiest way to repair is to replace the entire horseshoe. If the voltage is low, the battery is not charging, but the belt is tensioned properly and the regulator is working properly, then a little “tuning” will be required. Several additional diodes need to be introduced into the design to increase the output voltage. The more difficult method is to identify which valves are faulty, replace them, thoroughly solder the contacts and fill them with epoxy resin to prevent a short circuit. It is unlikely that anyone will want to carry out so many manipulations, because a ready-made straightener costs approximately 350-450 rubles.

The practical part is removing the generator, disassembling it, repairing it and reinstalling it.

Due to the fact that the generator is located under the hood of the car, it is necessary to turn off the engine, turn the steering wheel to the right all the way and open the hood. The electric generator on VAZ 2108 - 15 cars is installed in front of the engine, in the lower left corner of the engine compartment, between the engine and the cooling radiator.

Before dismantling the generator, it is necessary to disconnect the ground from the battery, i.e. negative contact.

Replacing VAZ generator brushes

Before removing the generator itself, in order not to do unnecessary work, we remove the charging relay from the generator housing and check the production of the generator brushes. The charging relay is installed in the rear of the generator housing, and is attached to it with two bolts. To unscrew them you will need a Phillips screwdriver. When unscrewing the bolts, be careful not to drop them on the crankcase guard, otherwise getting them out of there will be one big problem.

To remove the relay, you need to disconnect the wire, the “female” contact. After removing the charging relay and visually inspecting the brushes, we decide to purchase a new generator voltage regulator relay or reinstall the dismantled one, depending on the wear of the brushes. For their normal operation, a brush length of at least 4 cm is required. Now we proceed directly to removing the electric generator from the engine.

1. We disconnect the wires from the generator - as a rule, they are red and consist of two groups of wires, red. One group consists of two wires and is attached with a nut to a bolt on the rear wall of the generator. The other group consists of one wire and is connected to the generator terminal via a male-female contact, also on the rear wall of the generator.
2. To remove the generator from the engine, you need to unscrew two nuts and one bolt in the following sequence: unscrew the nut attached to the generator belt tensioner bar (at the top of the generator), unscrew the bolt securing the tensioner bar to the engine block and remove it. The last step is to unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the generator bracket to the engine block.
   The generator mounting bracket is located at the bottom of the engine block, directly below the generator. After unscrewing this nut, you need to remove the generator belt from the generator pulley itself.
3. The generator mounting bolt should be pushed to the left, out of the bracket, until it stops against the body shell or the generator’s mud protection.
4. On the right wheel side, you need to unscrew the two screws that secure the dust protection of the generator to the car body.
5. If the generator mounting bolt still rests against any body parts, you should press on the engine with one hand, and at the same time pull out the bolt with the other hand.

Now your generator is completely disconnected from the engine, and you can begin to disassemble and repair it.

Removing the generator pulley

To do this, we stop it from turning with a screwdriver and unscrew the nut securing it with a 19 mm spanner. The tightening torque is large, so it is better to use a wrench with a long handle.

Removing generator pulley 37.3701 for VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Then we remove the following parts: nut, washer, pulley with impeller, segment key.

Separate the halves of the generator housing

First, we mark their relative positions (by placing marks on both parts). Using a 10 mm wrench (it’s more convenient to use a socket or socket wrench), unscrew the four nuts of the coupling bolts (there are engraving washers under the nuts).

Pull out the bolts. Remove the front part of the generator. Remove the rotor from the back of the generator. If it cannot be removed, you can tap it with a soft metal drift through the window under the voltage regulator, or by screwing a nut onto the thread of the shaft and holding it in a vice, with a sharp upward movement, pull the back cover into the shaft. The bearing remains on the rotor shaft. If necessary, we dismantle it with a puller and press on a new one (See “Replacing generator bearings”).

Disconnect the stator

Using an 8 mm wrench (it’s more convenient to use a socket or socket wrench), unscrew the three nuts securing the stator terminals to the diode bridge. We remove it from the back cover of the generator by prying it with a slotted screwdriver or hitting it with a hammer.

When is it time to repair a generator?

1. Any instrument cluster has a battery charge indicator (indicated by a red arrow, using the example of an instrument cluster from a high panel). When the generator stops supplying charge to the battery, this indicator lights up. When the ignition is turned on, it should light up, but when the car starts, it must go out. Otherwise, the generator does not produce current and needs to be inspected. It happens that the battery runs out quickly, and the indicator lamp does not light up at all. In fact, you can’t trust it 100%; sometimes the generator produces a very weak current, insufficient for a light bulb. This situation leads to the fact that literally in 1 week the battery is completely drained and you have to put it on charge. We recommend periodically checking a working battery.

2. You will need a multi-meter with the voltmeter function enabled. Measure the readings given by the generator to the battery (the procedure is demonstrated in detail in the video below). After you start the car, the voltage at the terminal will most likely be about 12-13 Volts and will gradually increase. Don't have a voltmeter? There is an alternative way to check, but it causes damage to the diode bridge (we do not recommend using this method on fuel-injected cars; it is better to stock up on a multi-meter):

• start the engine and let it run for approximately 2 minutes;
• apply gas and pull out the choke so that the engine reaches about 2 thousand revolutions;
• Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

If the car works, everything is fine with the generator, put the terminal back. The car stalled - the generator has become unusable and needs to be replaced or repaired. But! It happens that the generator gives a charge, but it is too weak (around 12 Volts), which is why the battery quickly runs out (the car will not stall after removing the terminal from the battery, so this method does not always work).

Disassembling the device

For disassembly you will need the following tools:

• set of wrenches;
• bearing puller;
• vice.

With their help, the disassembly process will significantly speed up. When starting work, you need to unscrew the hardware securing the rotor shaft with a 19mm wrench. Usually they are secured very tightly, so you will have to put in a lot of effort. In the process of unscrewing the fastener elements, it is important to remember their location, so it is recommended to make a rough sketch on paper. This diagram will help you not get confused when assembling the device.

Place the generator with its back side up and unscrew the 4 fastening elements using an 8 key. This way you can open the front part of the generator housing. There is a bearing located there, which is secured using plates. Unscrew the hardware securing its plates and release the bearing from its seat.

If it does not give in, it is necessary to help it with a wooden strip, the size of which coincides with the dimensions of the bearing. The undisassembled part of the generator will need to be secured in a vice and the back of the housing will need to be pulled to release the element. All that remains is the rotor shaft and another bearing, which are removed using a puller. To do this, you need to place the tool on the bearing and release it from the shaft seat.

Technical characteristics and connection diagram of generators

Main technical characteristics of VAZ-2109 generators:

• the highest output current at 13V is 55 A for the 37.3701 generator and 80 A for the 94.3701,
• maximum adjustable voltage - 13.6-14.6 V and 13.2-14.7 V,
• the engine-generator gear ratio is 1:2.04 and 1:2.4, respectively.

Different generator models also have differences in the size of the slip rings. In modification 94.3701, the rings have a smaller diameter. This allows you to extend the life of the device.

Connecting the VAZ-2109 generator depends on the device model. When you turn the ignition key, voltage is connected through the indicator light on the dashboard and resistors. When the engine is running, voltage is supplied to the field winding from the valves on the rectifier block. The control lamp does not light up because no current passes through it. The main voltage is supplied to the regulator output. Since 1996, changes have been made to the design of the 37.3701 generator: the voltage regulator was placed in a metal case and connected to the brush holder.

The VAZ-2109 94.3701 generator is connected according to a similar scheme. After turning on the ignition, voltage is supplied to the regulator output through the control lamp. If the device is working properly, the lamp lights up when you turn the key, and immediately goes out after the engine starts. If the signal stays on longer than expected, the generator may malfunction.

How to check for serviceability?

Before diagnosing problems with injection and carburetor cars, you must start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Then, pressing the gas pedal, you need to increase the number of crankshaft revolutions to 3 thousand/min.

To create a simulation of driving in normal mode, enable:

• driving lights;
• rear window heating systems;
• stoves.

Diagnostics with a multimeter:

1. The tester is used to measure the voltage at the battery terminals. This parameter will be 13.2 volts in model 9402.3701 and 13.6 V for 37.3701. If, during diagnostics, without removing the voltage at the battery terminals, the obtained value turns out to be different, this indicates a break or short circuit in the windings of the device. The voltage regulator and brush assembly may also fail. Sometimes the problem is oxidation of the contact components of the field winding.
2. To ensure that the regulatory mechanism is working, all energy consumers are switched off. Only the high beam optics remains switched on, after which the voltage measurement procedure is repeated. This parameter should be in the range from 13.2 to 14.7 volts for model 94.3701. In the 37.3701 electric generator, the resulting value will be from 13.6 to 14.6 V.
3. If the control element on model 9402.3701 is removed, it can be checked by connecting a light source to the brush mechanism. In particular, between its elements. The lamp should be rated at 1-5 watts and 12 volts. The DC power supply is connected to the D+ pins and device ground. Diagnostics is performed first by activating the voltage at 12 volts, and then at 15-16 V.
4. In the first case, the light source should work, but in the second, it should not. If it is activated when 12 and 15 volts are supplied, then a breakdown must be looked for in the regulatory device. If there is no combustion, the cause should be checked for a break or broken contact between the brush elements and the terminals of the device. The regulator itself is changed to restore the generator's functionality. To test the device 37.3701, the light bulb is connected to contacts B and C, this is a plus, as well as to ground.
5. Checking the valves of the rectifier device is carried out by disconnecting the cables from the battery, generator unit, and also the regulator contact. The positive terminal from the battery is connected through a light source to the B+ output on the generator device 9402.3701. If this is model 37.3701, then it must be connected to output 30. The negative contact is ground, connected to the housing. If, as a result of the actions performed, the light source started working, then the problem is a short circuit (in both blocks).
6. Diagnosis of a similar problem on positive valves is carried out by connecting the positive contact of the battery to the B+ output (for model 37.3701 - contact 30). The connection is made through the light source. The negative contact goes to the output of the phase winding of the stator mechanism (you can connect to any). The inoperability of one or more positive valves will be indicated by activation of the light bulb.
7. The procedure for diagnosing a short circuit on the negative contacts of the element is performed by connecting the positive terminal of the battery to the phase winding of the stator mechanism. There should be a light bulb on the electrical circuit, and the negative terminal goes to the housing of the generator set. If the lighting device lights up, this indicates damage to the negative valves or a short circuit of the stator mechanism to the body of the automobile electric generator.
8. To prevent short-circuiting of the windings, the assembly is dismantled from the machine, after which the elements are disconnected from the regulator and the rectifier unit. Using a light source or an ohmmeter, parts are checked for short circuits. The valves of the generator device can be diagnosed with a tester; this does not require connecting a battery or a light bulb.
9. To check additional diode elements, the positive terminal of the battery is connected to output D through a light source. In model 37.3701, the connection must be made to pin 61. The negative terminal goes to the output of one of the phase windings of the stator device; you can use a screw to secure the rectifier assembly. If the light source lights up, this indicates damage to the diode elements.
10. To determine whether the valves are broken, you need to check the output current; this parameter should not fall as a result of the load. But such a problem may be caused by damage or short-circuiting of the windings of the generator unit.
11. To diagnose each diode element, you will need a tester or test light. To do this, the rectifier assembly will have to be dismantled. If this device breaks down, it must be replaced as an assembly. It is possible to replace individual valves, but the main elements require re-pressing in the holding device. Performing this operation requires caution and skill from the car owner.

The windings of a stator or rotor mechanism can only be diagnosed using a flaw detector or electronic oscilloscope; the test consists of monitoring voltage curves.

The “Avto-blogger” channel described in detail the procedure for examining a car’s generator unit.

Possible faults

If the node does not work or functions incorrectly, you need to find the cause of the problem:

1. When the ignition is activated, the indicator light on the dashboard does not light up. Perhaps this symptom was caused by a faulty fuse. The problem may be damaged wiring. It is necessary to check the electrical circuits and safety devices. Wiring testing is carried out using a tester.
2. The LED indicator on the device does not light up, but the battery is discharged, all other control devices are working normally. A possible problem is a short circuit of the diode elements on the bridge or poor contact on the excitation winding. The cause of the problem may be a malfunction of the relay, failure of the brush mechanism, or damage to the wiring from the generator to the dashboard. All failed components can be repaired or replaced yourself.
3. The battery indicator light on the dashboard lights up when the engine is running, the battery may be overcharged. It is necessary to diagnose the regulatory device; the problem may lie there.
4. When the car engine is running, the battery indicator lights up too brightly or only at 50%. It is necessary to diagnose the drive belt; the problem may be that it is worn out or weakened. To eliminate the malfunction, the belt must be tightened or replaced. The reason may be a short circuit of the stator winding to ground or damage to the electrical circuit. Sometimes the reason lies in faulty diodes or disconnection of the rotor mechanism from the slip rings.
5. A whistle comes from under the engine hood. The noise may appear when the power unit is started and disappear after a few minutes, or it can be heard constantly. The problem is due to wear on the drive belt. This product must be replaced.
6. A strong hum-like noise may indicate a worn generator set bearing. Sometimes this symptom is associated with a short circuit of the stator winding to ground or a short circuit of one of the diodes.
7. At night, when the optics are activated, you can see that the headlights burn dimly. But when you press the gas pedal, their brightness is restored to the required level. The voltage regulator device needs to be checked.

Channel “Tora 18” talked about the main malfunctions typical of automobile generator sets.

How to remove the generator on a VAZ 2108 yourself step by step instructions

In order to remove the VAZ 2108 generator with your own hands, you must perform the following procedure:

1. In order to easily remove the VAZ 2108 generator, it is necessary to remove the engine protection.
   Read also:  How to check the operation of the expansion tank cap yourself
2. During the dismantling process, the VAZ generator must be removed together with the bracket, since its fastening bolt will be impossible to pull out due to the position of the body side member.

3. Now disconnect all electrical terminals from the generator

4. Then you need to loosen the adjusting nut and the generator mounting nut from below.

5. Move the generator forward and remove the loose belt

6. Unscrew the bolt and remove the adjusting bar

7. We find it at the bottom of the engine compartment (shown in the photo) and unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket.
8. Then, carefully pushing down, remove the VAZ 2108 generator

9. After repairing or purchasing a new generator, we install it in the reverse order, taking into account the fact that the long bolt securing the bracket should be closer to the generator drive.
10. After completing the installation of the VAZ 2108 generator, tension the drive belt

How to install and connect a VAZ 2108 generator - step-by-step instructions

Installation of a new generator is carried out in the reverse order. Take a close look at the condition of the bottom bolt. If there is damage to the threads, it is better to replace it.

It will be easier for you to repair the generator later. When installing, pay special attention to belt tension. If it is not tensioned enough, your battery will not charge well. But if you tighten the belt too much, the bearing in the front cover will be destroyed. As a result, you will get an unpleasant whistle when the engine is running. And the reason for this is the appearance of play in the bearing.

The installation of the generator on the VAZ 2108 must be carried out in such a way that even the slightest distortion does not occur.

Replacing bearings

This breakdown occurs very often, a terrible whistle and grinding noise appears from the generator. There is only one reason for the appearance of extraneous sounds - excessive wear due to exceeding the permissible service life or due to strong belt tension. To replace bearings you must:

1. Unscrew the mounting bolts on the front cover.
2. Using a mandrel, knock the bearing out of its seat.
3. Wipe the metal so that there are no traces of metal or dirt left on it.
4. Apply a small amount of grease to the new bearing.
5. Carefully press in the new bearing using a mandrel.
6. Screw the bar with bolts.

With the back cover bearing it is even simpler - it is usually removed together with the rotor, all that remains is to carefully knock it down.

Generator set price for VAZ 21099, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108

The principle of operation of the power supply VAZ 21099, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108

There are 6 coils mounted inside the generator set, the material is copper, the connection is star-shaped. The stator is a stationary structure, and the rotor rotates inside the stator. Magnetic brushes are pressed into the back of the rotor axis, and the excitation winding is wound and sealed.

After the key is turned in the ignition switch, the current from the battery creates a magnetic field, passing through the graphite brushes and copper winding. Alternating current is converted to direct current.

On the front side of the IP there are two power outputs with polarity “+” and “-”. Terminals with the appropriate polarity are connected to the battery.

To turn the generator set you will need a battery. After the battery has accumulated the spent amount of energy, the generator distributes the excess to other power sources. Thus, the size of the on-board network is maintained within an acceptable range.

How does a car's generator unit work?

The work of a car generator consists of converting mechanical energy and electrical energy. After turning on the engine, the crankshaft spins the pulley. It transmits energy to the coil through a belt system.

The rotation of the armature creates an electromagnetic field that induces alternating current. It goes to the rectifier bridges, and then to the delta winding of the generator.

This maintains the vehicle's regulated voltage of 12-14 volts.

Here is how the generator unit works in a simplified form, but this is enough to understand the principle of the device.

Reasons for failure of the control unit on VAZ 21099, VAZ 2109, VAZ 2108

• Loose drive belt fixation;
• contamination of contacts;
• damage to rectifiers;
• brush wear;
• brushes sticking;
• short circuit;
• power supply interruption;
• The regulator does not work;
• bearing wear;
• pulley wedge;
• The fan is damaged.

Technical specifications 37.3701

What does generator 37.3701 consist of: 1 – capacitor; 2 – voltage regulator assembled with brush holder; 3 – terminal block for additional diodes; 4 – insulating bushings; 5 – rectifier block; 6 – contact bolt; 7 – stator; 8 – rotor; 9 – spacer sleeve; 10 – inner bearing mounting washer; 11 – drive side cover; 12 – pulley; 13 – outer bearing mounting washer; 14 – coupling bolt; 15 – front rotor ball bearing; 16 – bushing; 17 – cover from the side of the slip rings; 18 – buffer sleeve; 19 – clamping sleeve.

But there are also some differences here. So in the first series, the VAZ 2109 generator device consists of a large number of different components:

• bushings,
• capacitor components,
• stator mechanisms,
• rotor windings,
• pulley,
• rear bearing of the rotor shaft,
• rear cover of the unit,
• fixing bolt,

A more complex design is the second series, which has many more of the above parts:

• bushing,
• brush assembly holder,
• capacitor device,
• shaft,
• coupling bolt,
• cone washer,
• fixing device for positive diode elements of the rectifying mechanism,
• fixing negative diodes and the like.

The range of the first model is often approximately 120 thousand km, but the second one is a little more, and all thanks to the slip rings, which have a smaller diameter. It all depends on the technical characteristics. As well as proper switching on of the electric generator.

Since each brand of this device is different:

Generator 37.3701: 1 – cover on the side of the slip rings; 2 – rectifier block; 3 – rectifier block valve; 4 – screw for fastening the rectifier unit; 5 – contact ring; 6 – rear ball bearing; 7 – capacitor; 8 – rotor shaft; 9 – output “30” of the generator; 10 – output “61” of the generator; 11 – voltage regulator; 12 – terminal “B” of the voltage regulator; 13 – brush; 14 – stud securing the generator to the tension bar; 15 – pulley with fan; 16 – rotor pole piece; 17 – spacer sleeve; 18 – front ball bearing; 19 – drive side cover; 20 – rotor winding; 21 – stator; 22 – stator winding; 23 – rotor pole piece; 24 – buffer sleeve; 25 – bushing; 26 – clamping sleeve.

When using 37.3701 , when turning the ignition key, voltage is connected through a special light bulb on the instrument panel, as well as resistors. When the internal combustion engine is started, the voltage goes to the excitation winding of the motors located on the rectifier block (the main voltage goes to the output of the regulator, the current does not pass through a special light bulb, as a result it does not light up).

Generator 94.3701: 1 – casing; 2 – output “B+” for connecting consumers; 3 – noise suppression capacitor 2.2 μF; 4 – common terminal of additional diodes (connected to the “D+” terminal of the voltage regulator); 5 – holder of positive diodes of the rectifier unit; 6 – holder of negative diodes of the rectifier unit; 7 – stator winding terminals; 8 – voltage regulator; 9 – brush holder; 10 – back cover; 11 – front cover; 12 – stator core; 13 – stator winding; 14 – spacer ring; 15 – washer; 16 – conical washer; 17 – pulley; 18 – nut; 19 – rotor shaft; 20 – front rotor shaft bearing; 21 – beak-shaped pole pieces of the rotor; 22 – rotor winding; 23 – bushing; 24 – tension screw; 25 – rear rotor bearing; 26 – bearing sleeve; 27 – slip rings; 28 – negative diode; 29 – positive diode; 30 – additional diode; 31 – pin “D” (common pin of additional diodes)

When using 94.3701 , approximately the same thing happens (as soon as the ignition is turned on, the voltage goes through a special light bulb to the regulator output).

It is important to constantly pay attention to ensure that everything is working properly. So the light bulb should light up immediately when you turn the key. And as soon as the internal combustion engine is started, it will turn off instantly. But if it does not immediately stop working, then the generator is faulty.

Where is the generator on the VAZ 2109

Many car enthusiasts do not know where the generator is located on the VAZ 2109, so in this section you will find information where the generator is located, see the photo

Where is the generator on the VAZ 2109

Ignition circuit 2108

Here is a diagram of the contactless ignition of the VAZ 2108. The 2108 ignition connection diagram includes the 2108 switch and its connection diagram, as well as other devices, a list of which is given in this section.

Equipment for the contactless ignition system of the VAZ 2108 car:

• Ignition distributor sensor - 40.3706 or 40.3706-01;
• Switch - 3620.3734, or 76.3734, or RT1903, or PZE4022;
• Ignition coil - 3122.3705 with a closed magnetic circuit, dry or type 8352.12
• Spark plugs - A17DVR, or A17DVRM, or A17DVRM1, or FE65PR, or FE65CPR

Important ! You need to carry a Hall sensor and a switch in your car. The breakdown of these devices is quite large, and it is impossible to repair them or replace them with another one. If they break, the engine cannot be started, but changing them is easy. The same applies to the ignition coil, but it is more durable than the sensor and switch. If absolutely necessary, it can be replaced with a solenoid from another car.

Important ! Electronic ignition circuit for the injection engine of the VAZ-2111-80 model of the VAZ 2108 passenger car.

Let's sum it up

Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that timely noticed and identified breakdowns can not only avoid problems during vehicle operation, but also often increase the service life of the generator.

It is also important, when identifying problems, to carry out all repair work on the automobile alternator efficiently. At the same time, it is important to implement the correct connection during reassembly, which guarantees the full functionality of the repaired or replaced device.

Sources

• https://les74.ru/connecting-generator-vaz-2108-we-connect-and-repair-the-generator-at-the-eight-in-the-home.html
• https://twokarburators.ru/tehnicheskie-harakteristiki-generatorov-2108-2109/
• https://electro-shema.ru/auto-moto/remont-generatora-vaz-2108-2109-21099.html
• https://twokarburators.ru/polnaya-razborka-generator-37-3701/
• https://Vaz-Russia.com/remont-vaz-2108/remont-generatora-na-vaz-2108-vaz-2109-vaz-21099.html
• https://www.tdbate.ru/podkl-generatora-vaz2109.htm
• https://remont-inomarki.ru/generator-vaz-2108.html
• https://zapchasti.expert/generator/generator-vaz-21099-2109-2108.html
• https://provaz2109.ru/elektrika-i-datchiki/generator-vaz-2109-remont-zamena-ustrojstvo.html
• https://KrutiMotor.ru/generator-vaz-2109-ustrojstvo-neispravnosti-remont/