Clutch master cylinder repair. Repair and maintenance of the car clutch master cylinder

The clutch is one of the most important parts of a car; if the clutch fails, it becomes almost impossible to use the car.

Clutch master cylinder VAZ 2106

A few general points: on all classic VAZ models the clutch is hydraulic, that is, it consists of two cylinders, the main and the working. The master cylinder is installed on top; through the action of the clutch pedal on it, it creates excess pressure, which forces the slave cylinder to move. The slave cylinder is the cylinder in the clutch system that directly moves the clutch fork, is mounted underneath and contains the clutch bleeder.

It is also important to know that from 2101 to 2107 all clutch parts are identical and interchangeable. The working fluid in the clutch system is regular brake fluid.

Role of the master cylinder

The clutch master cylinder (MCC) is responsible for transmitting force from the pedal and further converting this value to a value that will be sufficient to start the clutch fork. This component of modern manual transmission systems is installed internally or externally.

The mechanism of the device is performed in different interpretations, however, the principle of operation of each variation is the same. Among the main details are:

a pusher connecting the mechanism to the pedal;
master cylinder;
piston;
traffic jams;
return spring.

Simplicity of design is not a guarantee of uninterrupted operation. The clutch master cylinder can be a serious source of trouble. Then a thorough repair of the clutch master cylinder will be required. The causal factors are as follows:

lack of working fluid;
air entering the hydraulic drive system.

The fact is that the likelihood of completely replacing this element is small; most often, a repair kit is needed for the clutch master cylinder, which has the most wearable parts.

Malfunctions and repairs of the clutch master cylinder

If we talk about the GCS, like any other device, this element can also fail. Although the clutch master cylinder is simple in design and reliable, over time individual elements wear out due to constant loads, especially if the car is operated in the city.

As a rule, seals and rubber parts are the first to fail. To put it simply, such sealing elements should be understood as boots that are put on the rod to protect the cylinder from dirt and small abrasives, as well as sealing collars that do not allow the working fluid to leak out.

Another element that can cause problems with the cylinder head is the spring in the cylinder. The spring of the clutch master cylinder constantly experiences loads during vehicle operation, and it is also affected by the brake fluid, which in this case performs the working function. When the metal becomes more brittle, the spring may simply burst.

One way or another, if there is a problem, the cylinder needs to be replaced. At the same time, in a number of cases it is also possible to get by with repairing the main central heating system rather than replacing it. Taking into account the relatively high cost of the part for many cars, this method is optimal. For these purposes, you need to purchase a clutch cylinder repair kit, which includes the necessary spare parts.

This approach usually allows you to sort out the device and completely restore its functionality. The main thing is that the repair kit is of high quality, and that the repair of the clutch master cylinder itself is carried out by experienced specialists.

Choose the best

The last point in the question of which clutch is best to install on a VAZ 2107 car will be a short review of the most famous clutch kits for classic cars. Differences in brand products lie in reliability and behavior during operation.

Valeo

The well-known company from France is also known for its high-quality brake pads. Judging by the reviews of car owners, the clutch is characterized by soft operation with a clear engagement moment.

Many note the reliability of the new Valeo kits, which often operate without breakdowns for more than 150,000 km. The disadvantage is the high cost.

LuK

World famous German manufacturer of friction clutches. The products have always been distinguished by advanced design solutions. For example, the use of a torsional vibration damper on the pressure and driven discs significantly dampens vibrations, which contributes to comfort. LuK couplings are the best choice in terms of price-quality ratio, however, there are many fakes on sale, so you need to be careful when purchasing.

Kraft

The German brand has been known for 20 years, but recently products under this brand are increasingly being produced in Turkey, which, naturally, makes them cheaper. However, clutches have a lot of positive reviews, including:

soft squeeze;
no overheating during heavy duty operation;
The flywheel has virtually no wear.

Sachs

The German manufacturer has extensive experience in the production of transmission parts. All coupling models are equipped with asbestos-free linings, and they provide:

Optimal torque transmission.
Resistant to increased loads.
No maintenance required.

VIS

A domestic enterprise that supplies original products for Lada cars. The design of the coupling was developed by engineers from Tolyatti, but the components used in production are mainly imported. Most car owners, when deciding which clutch is best to install on the classic VAZ 2107, choose this manufacturer. The reason for this choice is the low price and acceptable quality.

Kraft tech

Turkish products licensed from the German company Kraft. The set is characterized by soft operation and is adapted to Russian working conditions. Some of the negative reviews relate to the fragility of the release bearing.

Trial

Another domestic manufacturer that guarantees up to two million load cycles for its disks without loss of performance properties. The average mileage of the kit parts is 80,000 km. Some motorists complain about cracks appearing on the driven disk in the area of the springs, causing them to fly out. However, it is worth noting that such problems arose after two or three years of operation.

Clutch assembly

For assembly, use a stand or device used during disassembly.

To maintain the force of the pressure springs of tractor clutches, it is advisable to place washers in the ring grooves of the pressure plate, the thickness of which is equal to the layer of metal removed during turning.

Springs are selected that are equal in length and elasticity. When the clutch is assembled, all ends of the release levers should lie in the same plane, parallel to the base of the housing. The distance from the end of the clutch housing or from the working surface of the pressure plate to the plane in which the ends of the release levers are located is set strictly in accordance with the technical conditions for a given machine. If there is no stand, the correct location of the release levers is installed on the plate using a depth gauge or a special device.

We change the clutch with our own hands without removing the transmission

The operation is performed like this.

Place the machine on a viewing hole or a lift and securely secure it to prevent it from rolling away.
Disconnect the cardan and slave cylinder from the gearbox.
Remove the protective cover of the mechanism and the traverse.

Unscrew the box cushion.

Using your hands or using a lever, push the gearbox housing away from the power unit until it stops. For insurance, you can install a support under the box.
Next, you will need to unscrew the 6 bolts securing the basket from the flywheel.

The box basket needs to be moved all the way and the clutch disc pulled out through the resulting gap.

Similarly, slide the basket back and remove it.

The last step is to dismantle the release fork and remove the bearing of the same name from the gearbox input shaft.

Installation of new parts is carried out in reverse order.

Bleeding the clutch

The assembled and installed cylinders must be filled with working fluid without air pockets. To do this, you will need to properly bleed the clutch. There are several options for performing this operation.

Removing the clutch master cylinder

In the first case , fill the tank with a sufficient amount of working fluid. Next, unscrew the fitting, which is installed specifically for the pumping process, and put the end of the flexible tube on it. We lower the other side into a container under the machine. Now you can press the pedal and thereby release excess air from the hydraulic system. Do not forget to regularly add liquid to the tank during this process. After all the air has come out, screw the fitting on.

Consequences of using cheap products

The extensive range of clutch master cylinders on the market is characterized by a wide range of prices for similar products. As practice shows, a low price is achieved due to reduced quality indicators of the finished product. Cheap clutch master cylinders fail due to poor-quality piston seals, fluid leaks due to low precision manufacturing of parts and poor assembly quality. It makes sense to repair such products; a low-quality cylinder is completely replaced.

Repair kit for repairing the clutch master cylinder - what does it consist of?

At its core, a repair kit is a set of parts that are most necessary for repairing a specific component of a car unit.

Most often, a repair kit for repairing the clutch master cylinder consists of 4 parts. The set contains 1 protective cap, 2 pcs. sealing heads of the rear brake pressure regulator piston, one cap of the fitting for the clutch release cylinder bleeding hose. By purchasing such a set, each car owner will be able not only to save a certain amount of personal funds for the purchase of a new cylinder, but also to restore the functionality of this part of the car.

Installing the clutch master cylinder repair kit

It is not difficult to determine when it is necessary to repair the master cylinder; the main signs of its malfunction are:

Insufficient clutch release (clutch drives)
Any type of leakage, whether from under the nuts securing the hose and tubes, or from the end from under the rubber seals
Master cylinder stuck in pressed position

In my situation, the main leak was due to a worn out sealing ring, in other words, fluid flowed down the clutch pedal into the passenger compartment.

I started the repair by dismantling the reservoir hose, unscrewed the clamp on the main cylinder and quickly removed it from the main cylinder, turned it up and pinched it behind the reservoir cap so that the liquid did not flow out of the reservoir. Next, I unscrewed the tube that goes to the working cylinder, I did this with a special key, it’s a pity there is no photo, but you can buy one without any problems at any auto store. All that remains is to unscrew the main one itself, it is secured with two 13 nuts and remove it from under the hood.

Main removed

The boot was removed and it was noticeable that fluid was flowing from here.

Having picked up the boot with a screwdriver, I saw exactly where the liquid was flowing from; the assumption was absolutely correct.

Next, you need to wipe the cylinder, remove dirt and rust.

Attention!!! Do not use gasoline or similar liquids for washing, as they will very quickly ruin the new rubber bands. To flush the clutch and brake elements, use clean brake fluid.

After cleaning the dirt, you can begin disassembling. To do this you will need an awl or similar object.

Corkscrew ring

We take out the ring

Next, you need to carefully remove the insides, keeping in mind that the piston is under the action of a spring.

This is what it looks like

Next, you need to clean the master cylinder body, you cannot scrape the parts with a screwdriver, sandpaper, etc., this is just in case, I use a rag with brake fluid. In repair manuals, I often came across such expressions that if rips, scratches, etc. appeared on the parts, then it is unusable. But despite all this, practice shows that despite all the risks, provided that a high-quality repair kit is installed, the master cylinder works without problems. I used this kit:

Repair kit for clutch master cylinder VAZ

We remove the old rings, clean all the grooves and holes. There should be no dust or debris there.

The ring is removed, clean the piston, install a new one

Major breakdowns

Despite the high cost of the design, the VAZ-2106 clutch breaks quite often. The clutch cylinder fails and leaks appear. This happens for the following reasons:

Excessive wear on the slave and master cylinder parts.
Using brake fluid not recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
A decrease in the liquid level in the expansion tank due to its damage or loosening of the pipe clamps.

The price of the VAZ-2106 clutch master cylinder is 400-600 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. But you can also find more expensive parts. The repair kit is a little cheaper - about 300 rubles.

The role of the working cylinder

The clutch slave cylinder (CLC) is an element of the hydraulic clutch system without which the car cannot operate. It is assigned one of the most basic functions: receiving forces that come from the master cylinder, thus moving the clutch release fork.

Clutch slave cylinder

Located on the crankcase, the clutch slave cylinder is practically the same in all models and brands of cars. Based on this, the fundamental features of its replacement are identical and do not depend on the brand of your vehicle.

Replacement work

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder involves the following manipulations:

First, pump out the hydraulic fluid using a syringe.
We remove the expansion tank for convenient further dismantling.
Unscrew the nuts securing the barrel (from where the liquid was drained) using a 10mm socket and remove the hose.
The aluminum tube coming from the GCS is unscrewed.
Using a 13mm socket, unscrew a couple of nuts holding the main center joint together and pull it towards you.
Unscrew the hose from the RCS using a 17mm wrench.
Using the 13mm head, unscrew the last nuts holding the control center together and remove it.

The cylinder has been dismantled and we begin to inspect it for possible damage. If there are none, repairs are possible. A repair kit will help with this, which has three different cuffs and a boot. Upon completion of disassembly, the old cuffs should be replaced with new analogues and the boot should be installed. If repair work cannot be performed, it is necessary to purchase a new device.

Important: the nut is screwed on at the same distance as it was on the old cylinder.

Assembling the clutch system involves performing the above steps in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to replace old aluminum tubes. At the very end, brake fluid is added and bleeding is performed.

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Self-removal of parts

Having established that there is a problem in this mechanism of the VAZ 2106, in order to carry out repairs, it is necessary to remove it to determine the degree of damage and clean it. To do this, carry out the following steps.

Unscrew the two nuts of the expansion tank and remove it, putting it to the side.
Remove the fluid using a rubber bulb from the clutch tank by removing the fluid supply hose (if necessary, the tank is then either unscrewed or left).
Taking the key to 13, unscrew the tube that goes to the working cylinder and move it to the side. At the same time, make sure that the working fluid from the tube does not get on the disc in the clutch.
Using a ratchet with a long extension and a 13mm socket, unscrew the 2 nuts securing the damaged device (carefully so that the engraving washers are not lost).
Remove the element.

It is advisable to have a special wrench for this work, which will not damage the edges of the tube fitting. But when disassembling a VAZ 2106 yourself, you can use regular keys (the main thing is that their edges are not broken) or adjustable ones. The key must securely fix the edges of the fitting.

Causes and symptoms of GCS malfunction

As mentioned above, wear and tear of individual cylinder elements is inevitable over time. Also, premature failure of a part can be caused by untimely replacement of brake fluid, ruptures of seals, errors in assembling/installing individual spare parts from the repair kit, etc.

As a rule, the most serious damage can be considered when the mirror of the cylinder itself is heavily worn, scuffs, abrasions and other defects appear on the metal surface, and pockets of corrosion are visible. In such a situation, a conventional overhaul using a repair kit is often not possible. The only solution is to completely replace the clutch master cylinder.

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The fact is that one of the properties of brake fluid is high penetrating ability. This means that fluid seeps through even the smallest scratches on the cylinder bore and/or piston. Replacing only the rubber seals does not help in this case.

We also recommend reading the article about whether there is a clutch in an automatic transmission. From this article you will learn what devices and mechanisms in an automatic transmission perform the clutch function, as well as how the clutch works in an automatic transmission.

Often, a high-quality GCS repair kit usually has both cuffs and a new piston. However, if there are scratches on the cylinder mirror, in this case the entire part needs to be replaced. For this reason, it is important to prevent critical wear and tear by paying attention to the slightest signs of failure of the main circulation system. As soon as a problem occurs in the cylinder, fluid can leak out of the system and its level decreases.

Also, the clutch pedal may work worse; while driving, the driver notices that the gear shifting process is disrupted as a result of clutch malfunctions. If there are problems with the cylinder, the clutch pedal may fall to the lower position (fall, stick), the pedal travel becomes tight, etc.

In this case, a visual inspection must be carried out immediately. First of all, you should check the level and condition of the brake fluid. You also need to inspect the cylinder itself. If there are obvious stains on the cylinder or the seals (cuffs) are wet, then a leak is obvious.

We also note that a common problem with the clutch master cylinder is active clogging of the holes in the reservoir cap. In order for the device to work properly, it is assumed that the fluid level in the cylinder reservoir constantly rises and then decreases.

In order for the level to rise and fall normally, there are special ventilation holes in the tank lid. In cases where the holes are clogged with dirt, the entire hydraulic drive malfunctions, the clutch pedal moves hard, the clutch pedal slowly returns to its original position, etc.

Clutch cylinder repair

Rice. Hydraulic clutch drive device VAZ-2101-07: 1 - main cylinder; 2 - compensation hole; 3 — fitting gasket; 4 - fitting; 5 — lock spring washer; 6 — piston of the main cylinder; 7 - sealing ring; 8 — pusher piston; 9 - hook; 10 — axis of the clutch and brake pedals; 11 — bracket for clutch and brake pedals; 12 — clutch pedal reinforcing spring (Servo spring); 13 — clutch pedal release spring; 14 — clutch pedal travel limiter; 15 — clutch pedal; 16 — pusher; 17 — protective cap; 18 — retaining ring; 19 — bypass hole; 20 — sealing ring (ring valve); 21 — piston bypass hole; 22 - working cylinder; 23 - spring; 24 - gasket; 25 - plug; 26 — inner pedal bushing; 27 — outer pedal bushing; 28 — spacer sleeve; 29 — brake pedal

To carry out the work, it is necessary to dismantle the entire assembly, first disconnecting all pipes and draining the liquid from the system. You should also prepare in advance a repair kit for the clutch master cylinder, which includes all parts subject to wear. Despite the fact that the design of the clutch master cylinder is not complicated, it is advisable to carry out the work by persons who have at least minimal experience in plumbing work. If the question of how to remove the clutch master cylinder is completely unclear, it is better to abandon repairs yourself and simply replace the cylinder with a new one.

To eliminate errors during dismantling and subsequent reassembly of this unit, you should remember all the stages of disassembly, and reassemble it in the reverse order. If there is clearly not enough experience in such actions, the stages can be written down - this is guaranteed to protect you from mistakes.

After dismantling, the cylinder should be disassembled and its parts should be thoroughly washed with brake fluid (the use of solvents or gasoline is prohibited). It is also advisable to wash all parts from the repair kit that are planned to be used before installation.

After dismantling and completely disassembling the master cylinder into its component elements, you can begin to assess the technical condition of all parts. First of all, carefully inspect the piston, mirrors and sealing elements. Quite often, pockets of corrosion can be found on internal surfaces; they can be eliminated by careful treatment with fine-grained sandpaper. Multiple, extensive and accompanied by the presence of scuffing foci of corrosion indicate a violation of the gap between the piston and the cylinder walls.

It is recommended to replace all sealing elements with new ones, since when working under pressure, even minor defects inevitably lead to fluid leaks from the cylinder. It is not permissible to treat rubber seals with oils to facilitate assembly - this will lead to their swelling and the impossibility of normal functioning.

After all faults have been eliminated, the device can be reassembled in reverse disassembly sequence.

After replacing the clutch master cylinder or repairing it, the clutch system must be bled. This is a necessary measure to eliminate accumulated air bubbles, the presence of which is not allowed in the hydraulic drive system.

For bleeding, it is necessary to provide free access to the master cylinder, and for this it will be more convenient to drive some vehicle models into a pit or lift them on a hydraulic lift. New brake fluid is poured into the reservoir, a transparent tube is put on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with the same working fluid. By rhythmically operating the clutch pedal, the hydraulic drive is pumped until the release of air through the fitting stops completely. After this, the fitting is tightened and the car is ready for use.

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Device location

To find the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ classic, you need to look for it directly in the area where the gearbox is located. The device is attached with two bolts to the gearbox housing.

The mechanism can only be seen from below or in the very depths of the engine compartment on the driver’s side. Repair work related to dismantling and replacing the clutch slave cylinder can be carried out “from under the hood,” but it is much more convenient from an inspection hole or on an overpass. The video below shows the location of this unit. What function does this product perform and is it possible to do without it? We'll find out more about this later.

Features of operation

The operating principle is very simple. Below is a diagram where the slave cylinder is indicated by a green arrow.

According to this diagram, we can say that the RCS performs an important function, or rather, it activates the fork, which is connected to the clutch drum. The main element of the RCS, or rather the piston, is activated by the resulting fluid pressure coming from the main cylinder through the hose when the clutch pedal is pressed. The brake fluid pushes the piston, which in turn drives the fork, which acts on the drum, pushing the disc away from the flywheel. Many people wonder why brake fluid is used in the system? The reason is that brake fluid is incompressible, which is why it is used in such important systems as brakes and clutches.

When to replace the RCS

During the use of the unit, which happens very often, the product tends to fail. The main causes of breakdowns are chafing and wear of the cuffs, the appearance of cracks in them, which entails the leakage of liquid. Significant loss of fluid will cause the clutch system to malfunction. It is possible to repair a DCS that has become unusable, but it is easier and more efficient to replace it with a new one.

In order not to wait until the pressure in the clutch pedal disappears, you need to periodically inspect the unit. If there is a leak in the fuel fluid, it is necessary to immediately carry out the appropriate repairs on the VAZ 2107. Before carrying out repairs, you need to make sure that this particular element is faulty, since the main circulation system may also fail. The main signs of failure of the RCS are:

decrease in the level of fuel fluid in the tank;
visible brake fluid leaks from the device body or from under the rubber boot;
“failures” of the clutch pedal, which can be periodic or constant;
difficulty changing gears.

But most often the malfunction is determined by detecting a brake fluid leak.

Features of replacing the RCS

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch slave cylinder begins with the need to remove all fluid from the reservoir. Further actions are carried out in order:

First you need to loosen the fastening nut that connects the hose to the cylinder. There is no need to unscrew the nut completely, just loosen it at this stage.
Using pliers, you need to remove the tension spring.
After this, you should unclench the cotter pin and remove it from the tip of the pusher.
Using a key set to “12”, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure the product to the gearbox housing.
After unscrewing the bolts, you can disconnect the bracket from the cylinder, which is intended to secure the spring.
Holding the working cylinder body, you should dismantle it. During dismantling, pay attention to the pusher, which is located in the fork.
After disconnecting the product from the crankcase, you can continue unscrewing the nut connecting the hose to the device. After unscrewing the nut, brake fluid will begin to flow out of the hose, so you should prepare a special container in advance.

After the device is dismantled, it should be replaced with a new one, since repairing it is irrational. The cost of the product is insignificant, so it is easier to replace it with a new one than to try to carry out repairs. Installation of the product is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to carry out the system bleeding procedure. In conclusion, it should be recalled that regular car maintenance helps prevent various unforeseen consequences along the way, such as the “disappearance” of the clutch.

Dismantling process

First, the tank is turned off. Next, release the clamp on the main body and turn it so that excess liquid does not drain. We unscrew the pipe going to the DC. This is done using a special key, which can be bought at any auto store.

Step 1. Remove the protective cap Step 2. Remove the lock washer Step 3. Remove the fitting Step 4. Unscrew the plug Step 5. Use a puller to remove the washer Step 6. Remove the contents of the cylinder

After this, unscrew the two nuts to 13. They secure the GC. Now the GC can be removed outside. We clean the cylinder of dirt so that we can continue working with a clean part. To do this, it must be washed.

You need to know that it is prohibited to use gasoline to wash the master cylinder. This leads to corrosion of the rubber elements. New brake fluid must be used.

To see the design of the clutch master cylinder, you need to release the retaining ring. This can be done using an awl or a special puller. The internal contents must be removed carefully, since the mechanism contains a spring.

You should not scratch the case with metal objects, including a screwdriver, as the surface may be damaged. Clean only with a rag and brake fluid.

Old rings must be replaced, even if they look slightly worn out. It is also necessary to carefully clean all grooves from possible dirt. The assembly process consists of the reverse of disassembly operations. The last step is to install a new retaining ring.

Replacing cuffs

As mentioned above, the entire clutch cylinder is rarely replaced. Much more often, the car owner disassembles it and repairs it. About 80% of cylinder failures are associated with a violation of its tightness. The cylinder begins to leak due to wear of the sealing collars. So the repair of this device in the vast majority of cases comes down to replacing the seals, which are sold in the form of repair kits in almost all spare parts stores. The standard VAZ clutch repair kit includes three o-rings and one rubber cap. This kit costs about 300 rubles.

Sequencing

All we need to replace the cuffs is a thin screwdriver or an awl.

The piston removed from the cylinder is thoroughly wiped with a rag, then washed with brake fluid.
The old cuffs on the piston are pryed off with an awl or a screwdriver and removed.

Clutch master cylinder malfunctions

Despite the simplicity of the device, the clutch master cylinder may have the following breakdowns that make its normal operation difficult or impossible:

Lack of process fluid. The liquid level in the tank must be periodically monitored and, if necessary, topped up to the set level. It appears when the cuff on the cylinder is damaged or broken or the system connections lose their tightness. Eliminated by identifying the location of the leak and ensuring its tightness.
The entry of air into the system, leading to failure of operation, which is manifested by “under-depressing” of the clutch with a characteristic crunch or vibration of the lever when changing gears. The cause of the malfunction is cracks in the tubes, wear of moving parts or leakage of the system at the connections. The malfunction can be resolved by identifying and eliminating such areas and bleeding the entire system to remove any air trapped there.
Pumping liquid through oneself. The malfunction occurs when the cuffs fail or there is wear on the piston itself. Eliminated by replacing damaged parts.

The first signs of a malfunction should serve as a reason to diagnose the clutch master cylinder and the entire system as a whole. Timely measures taken will allow you to avoid replacing the entire assembly by eliminating the malfunction by replacing worn parts.

Monitoring the brake fluid

One of the main signs of failure of the clutch slave cylinder in VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 cars is partial or complete failure of the pedal inside the car when pressed. This indicates a lack of tightness in the system - gradually the amount of brake fluid decreases, and the harder and more often you press the pedal, the more fluid will leave at a time.

This will cause the clutch to stop working and changing gears will be difficult or impossible. If you do not monitor the level of brake fluid in the reservoir and do not eliminate leaks in a timely manner, then consequences may arise - the clutch basket and release bearing will fail, not to mention the creation of emergency situations.

To eliminate the cause of the breakdown or completely replace the working cylinder, depending on the nature of the breakdown, you will need a new working cylinder, brake fluid and a standard set of tools. It is best to replace the working cylinder in a VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 car from an inspection hole or on a lift. Before starting work, it is necessary to drain the brake fluid that is in the clutch system. Having all the necessary tools at hand, the procedure for removing the cylinder is very easy.

The first step is to pull out the pusher clamp, then remove the tension spring. Next, slowly unscrew the nut on the hose with the liquid, after placing a container to collect it. Then proceed to unscrew the cylinder mounting bolts, after first pulling out the pusher with the clutch fork. Move the fork with the pusher so that it does not interfere with you. Between the working cylinder and the rubber hose there is a rubber gasket with a sealing washer. It is very important not to lose it, because it is not included in the repair kit.

Replace the clutch slave cylinder and proceed with reassembly in reverse order. If necessary, you can adjust the depth of pedal pressing on the cylinder fitting. After completing all the work, fill the brake fluid into the clutch reservoir. Filling will help to completely flush the entire hydraulic clutch system of a VAZ car. Bleeding is performed to clear your system of air that is in the brake fluid.

How to purchase a high-quality clutch cylinder, what to look for

The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a quality clutch cylinder is its cost. Unfortunately, today in the automotive market it is quite difficult to choose high-quality spare parts for a car, the cost of which will be significantly lower than the average selling price. Before you go to a car store for a new part, it is recommended to study the market and all possible offers. Only after this, guided by the suggestions, feel free to go to a more convenient car store for the required clutch cylinder.

In fact, purchasing a high-quality clutch cylinder is quite a difficult task, since it can be fully checked only after installation in the car, bleeding and testing. However, the selection of a cylinder must begin with a visual inspection for visible damage. You should inspect the cuffs that prevent the release of brake fluid from the system. They should be tightly seated and not have any visible damage.

Next, you can close it, press the rod as hard as possible and see how quickly it returns to the reverse position after the impact on it is completed. The rod should immediately return to its place, thereby confirming the normal operation of the return spring.

You can also independently check the tightness of the system at low pressure. To do this, close the outlet and inlet fittings with your fingers, through which the brake fluid passes through the system. By pressing the rod again, air should not escape from the joints of the structure and the sealed cuff.

There should also be no visible damage on the case itself - chips, impacts, cracks, dents. Since this part of the car is quite often under the influence of internal pressure when pressing the clutch pedal.

Selection of GVC for VAZ 2107

The best option for replacement is to purchase a GCS designed specifically for classic VAZ models. Clutch master cylinders from UAZ, GAZ and AZLK vehicles are not suitable. The same applies to foreign analogues - foreign cars with rear-wheel drive are equipped with GVCs, which only highly qualified specialists can adapt to the VAZ 2107 (different sizes, different threads for pipelines, different pipe configurations). However, you can easily replace the original cylinder with a GCS from a VAZ 2121 and from a Niva-Chevrolet.