Do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 cars repair

Body repair of VAZ 2109 according to instructions

Today, do-it-yourself body repairs of the VAZ 2109 are carried out by many owners of this car. And in general, a considerable part of fans of the domestic automobile industry are faced with body problems. The price of repairing the body of a VAZ 2109 in car services leaves much to be desired, so you have to do some types of work yourself.

In reality, there is nothing complicated about replacing individual elements of the Nine’s body. If you have the necessary tools at hand, it will not be particularly difficult to replace, for example, a rotten arch or the bottom of a car, a threshold or a bumper. From the article you will learn how to do this without wasting a lot of time and effort.

Tools

Before moving on to the direct instructions for repairing the VAZ 2109 body, I would like to dwell on choosing the right tools. Every professional, master of his craft will confirm that a good tool is half the successful completion of any repair operation.

So, the list of necessary tools for body repair of the “nine” is quite wide, since the work is by no means simple and will require a considerable number of specific instruments:

Special hammers are required, at least 3 types of them with different sizes for straightening work;
A grinder with mounted circles (you need different discs that perfectly remove paintwork and rust);
It is advisable that the garage have a carbon dioxide cylinder (about 10 cubic meters);

VAZ 2109 body repair and tools

Without welding during body work, it’s like having no hands (it’s better to choose a device with a maximum current of 150 A);
Good chisels with hardened tips and several similar metal drills;
Lift (it is better to have 2 jacks);
A good metal brush (you will need it to clean rusty areas of the body);
A standard set of motorist tools (keys, screwdrivers, etc.).

Algorithm for carrying out body work on the “nine” in general terms

Let's get acquainted with the work process so far in general terms:

First of all, it will be necessary to remove those areas of the body that are rotten or deformed;
On the “nine”, over time, the front floor with sills and reinforcements, the bottom in the rear, doors and fenders rot most quickly.

Note. It may even be impossible to install a jack, since the area provided by the manufacturer for it (the jack) becomes unusable. To work in this place, the car can be raised using an engine support beam instead of a support.

The hood of the “nine” also cannot “boast” of endurance. In the place where the battery is located, it becomes covered with rust;
The floor of the fuel tank is also considered a noticeable problem on the “nine”;
The same fate befalls optics reflectors, muffler and other parts over time.

In general, corrosion is the number one problem for domestic cars. It seems that the level of anti-corrosion protection on them is good, but rust eats through everything over time, and there is no escape from it.

Let's continue:

The engine compartment is disassembled and the coolant and radiator are drained;
Doors are removed;
If a TV (amplifier) is installed in front, then it must be disassembled;
Rotten areas will have to be cut off with a grinder;
You will also have to cut off rusty panels and fenders;
Holes can simply be welded or patched;
It is recommended to place additional metal pieces on problem areas;
Mud flaps must be reinforced with new elements, and then secured with spot welding;
It is also necessary to fit new parts to the body so that no problems arise;
It is advisable to fasten the wings and sills with self-tapping screws and bolts, followed by welding of the parts.

Note. It is also necessary to restore the geometry of the body, which takes a lot of time. You will need a slipway machine on which you will have to fix the car. The slipway has special clamps that ensure reliable fixation of the machine. You can read more about the “nine” checkpoints below.

After this, you can begin welding the new floor. At this stage of work, patches, amplifiers and connectors are widely used. Be sure to cover all areas with anticorrosive at the end;
It’s better to install new arches, too, and not bother with their repair.

Control points of the VAZ 21099 body and their measurements

It is advisable to cover the arches with resin mixed with waste oil. This is an excellent remedy against rye, but you can’t apply it to the bottom for well-known reasons.

Restoring the original condition of the body and parts with your own hands usually involves simple painting and removing dents. It cannot be done without polishing, which protects the surface well from corrosion.

VAZ 21099 body repair on a slipway

As for the complete restoration of a body involved in an accident, the services of professionals will be required. Only in a car service can you properly restore the body, according to basic control points. Here there is appropriate equipment, and the specific technology for carrying out it is well known to the masters.

In any case, before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to check the condition of the body. The most well-known verification method involves measuring the distances between control points and then comparing them with the passport values.

Specifically, the body is checked as follows:

The dimensions are checked diagonally;
The condition of the vehicle struts is studied;
The roof is subjected to a visual inspection, the dimensions of the diagonals of the door frame and the roof itself are measured;
Particular attention is paid to measuring the front and rear window frames;
Finally, a detailed visual inspection of the car from all angles is required. Maybe where there is a bulge, there is a larger gap, and so on.

The main passport dimensions between the control points of the VAZ 2109 body

Diagonal of the front doorway from the extreme point of the lower threshold to the middle of the roof	1345 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)
Diagonal of the front door opening from the lowest point of the windshield to the middle of the lower threshold	1000 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)
Distance between the front door hinge area and the pillar in a straight line	963 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)
Diagonal of the rear door opening from the point where the lower sill meets the door center pillar to the roof	1112 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)
Diagonal of the rear door opening from the top of the B-pillar to the lower sill	860 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)
Long diagonal rear side window frame	706 mm (plus/minus 3 mm)
Short diagonal rear side window frame	383 mm (plus/minus 3 mm)
Hood diagonal	1610 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)
Distance from the middle of the hood to the middle of the windshield	712 mm (plus/minus 5 mm)

Interesting video about the repair and straightening of the body of the “nine”

Bumpers on the “nine”: repair and replacement

VAZ 21099 car body repair

Often the rear and front bumpers on the “nine” are removed to repair them or to restore other parts of the body. You will still have to learn how to remove them correctly and without problems, no matter how you look at them, if the owner intends to carry out body repairs on his own.

Dismantling

So, in order to remove the rear bumper:

On the side we find the nuts that secure the bumper to the body and unscrew them (as a rule, there are 2 fasteners on each side);
We find the nuts for the front bumper mounting and now unscrew them (it is recommended to hold the bumper so that it does not fall).

The front bumper is removed in the same way, only here you also need to remove the plastic fender liners.

Painting

Black bumper for VAZ 2109

The preferred color of bumpers on the “nine” is an eternal topic of discussion among fans of this car model. Many are on the side of the classic black color, although there are also those who believe that the color of the bumper should be in harmony with the color of the car.

Be that as it may, painting and decorative repairs are not difficult. The bumpers will need to be dismantled and thoroughly inspected for any deformations. If there are any, then you will have to straighten the elements and clean the remaining parts from old paint and rust.

Attention. If the bumper is plastic, then its defects can be repaired with putty.

Plastic bumpers can be easily removed from rust and paint using 200-400 grit sandpaper. If there are holes in the bumper, they can be closed with pieces of plastic removed from old bumpers or other plastic elements. As you know, plastic can be glued together well with a soldering iron with a power of 40-60 W.

Wings of the "nine"

VAZ 21099 body parts and repair instructions

The fixation of the front wings on the “nine” was done quite well, if we mean ease of removal. Just a few bolts hold them in place. Therefore, no welding is required to dismantle them; you just need to arm yourself with a pair of good shaped screwdrivers and an 8-size socket with an extension.

Details:

Remove the fender liners, which are held on by self-tapping screws;
The fender bolt holding the body element from below at the threshold is unscrewed;
Two more bolts hold the wing on the inside;
You will have to completely dismantle the bumper or unscrew its side fastenings, and then move it to the side to gain access to another bolt securing the wing;
Finally, it remains to remove a few bolts securing the wing from above.

It is also not customary to tinker with a wing if it is deformed. You can easily replace it with a new one, especially since it is inexpensive - 1200 rubles. If you use auto-disassembly, you can buy the part even at half the price.

New wing of VAZ 2109

If, however, the wing has received minor deformations or there are traces of rust on it, then it is easy to repair the part. Again, it can be removed and then finished to perfection on a garage workbench.

If you don’t want to remove the wing, you can repair it directly on the car using straightening hammers, pliers and a jack.

DIY VAZ 2109 repair

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Restoration of the cylinder head (cylinder head)

After removing the cylinder head, it must be washed with acetone, and the combustion chamber must be cleaned of carbon deposits. Parts such as the camshaft and valve group are cleaned in the same way.

During the inspection of the condition of the cylinder head elements, the need for replacement may be identified:

valves;
springs;
guide bushings;
valve pushers and adjusting washers;
cylinder head mounting bolts;
intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.

Additionally, the camshaft may need to be replaced. If it has been determined that there is unevenness in the mating plane of the head, you can try to grind in. But experts recommend replacing it if the cylinder head is leaking.

Repair of VAZ 2109 | VAZ REPAIR

Photo reports, step-by-step instructions for repairing a VAZ 2109. Detailed instructions for repairing VAZ “nines” with your own hands, at home.

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Post-weld treatment

The first stage is polishing the bottom with coarse pastes with mechanical additives. Pastes without abrasive substances are applied after washing and drying the car. All work is carried out using a polishing wheel, which processes each part separately.

Primers

They cover clean surfaces of the car according to the instructions. The primer provides adhesion to anti-corrosion compounds. Manufacturers offer different formulations:

Tectyl is available in three types. Classic creates an organic microfilm on steel; zinc provides an additional coating that neutralizes salts; Tectyl HT zinc is intended for vehicles operating in urban environments.
Movil is an economical composition that is in demand in auto repair shops.
Bitumen mastic based on polymers, rubber, mineral shale.
Dinitrol based on polymer rubber.

After restoration of body parts, sound insulation must be installed. The bottom can be coated with Prim, which simultaneously acts as an anti-corrosion agent.

Corrosion protection

To protect the body from rust, two methods of anti-corrosion treatment are used.

ML oils

The method, invented in Scandinavia, involves pouring special oils into the technical cavities of the body through factory drains. The compositions impregnate the welding seams, covering the internal surfaces with a film, isolating them from contact with air. The bottom is coated on the outside with similar oils.

The inhibitors included in ML oils allow them to be applied over rust. They slow down the spread of corrosion, but for maximum effect, it is advisable to wash the body of the “nine”.

The disadvantage of the ML method is its low mechanical strength. Oils wear off quickly in open areas, but remain for years in closed spaces.

Bitumen compounds

Open bottom panels and wheel arches are coated with protective bitumen. The method places high demands on the preparatory work. External elements must be thoroughly washed, otherwise the bitumen composition will quickly be washed away.

The advantage of such coatings is their high mechanical strength. They protect the VAZ 2109 body from external influences for a long time. Bitumen compounds can be used as additional sound insulation: a film applied in several layers reduces the level of vibration of the panels.

Bitumen coatings can be applied to traces of corrosion, but with some reservations. Surface rust is pre-impregnated with ML oils, after which solid compounds are applied. For deep damage, this method will not help control the development of corrosion, since bitumen products, unlike ML compounds, are opaque. Because of this, when inspecting a car, the technician assesses the level of rust damage and decides whether to apply bitumen compounds on top.

Maintenance and repair of VAZ 2109: how to do it correctly

General view of the VAZ 2109 car

The Lada Samara - VAZ 2109 is a five-door hatchback with front-wheel drive. Due to the wedge-shaped contours of the body, it is called a “chisel”. After unification, the VAZ 21093 model began to be produced in 1990.

Then a new solution was adopted for the front of the car with a separate segment and “long” wings - the VAZ 21099 sedan.

When operating a VAZ 2109 car, a moment comes when the fastening of units and components becomes loose, rubbing surfaces wear out, adjustment parameters are violated, rubber products wear out and other unpleasant phenomena occur. For these purposes, repairs and maintenance are performed in the VAZ 2109 car.

Maintenance of a VAZ 2109 car

In order to prevent malfunctions and increase the reliability of the car, scheduled preventive maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2109 is provided, which includes checking, adjusting, lubrication, and replacing some parts after a certain mileage of the car. Some maintenance operations for the VAZ 2109 car, depending on the mileage, are suggested by the instructions:

Where to start and where to end

Repair work begins with dismantling the deformed, rotten parts of the “nine”:

Disassembling the engine compartment, draining coolant and antifreeze.
Removing the doors.
Dismantling the amplifier - “TV”.
Rusty areas are cut off with a grinder.
The holes will have to be repaired or patched.
Problem areas are strengthened with iron.
Mudguards are reinforced with spot welding.
Spare parts are adjusted in accordance with the geometry of the car.
Thresholds and wings are fastened with bolts followed by electric welding.
New arches are installed, and if necessary, the bottom is completely changed.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 car repair (Lada Sputnik / Lada Samara)

DIY car repair › VAZ ›

The technical and design features of domestic cars are well studied by car owners.

To repair a VAZ 2109 with your own hands, you will not need to waste time examining the breakdown. To repair a car on your own, it is enough to have a repair manual.

To carry out diagnostics without a service station, you will need an inspection hole or overpass.

Photo of VAZ-2109 Lada Sputnik / Lada Samara is a front-wheel drive five-door hatchback.

VAZ 2109 is a Russian class B car. It was produced in a hatchback body. The first car, model 2109, rolled off the assembly line in 1986. VAZ 2109 is called Zhiguli, nine.

Nine was created on the basis of the VAZ 2108.

Porsche specialists took part in the creation of the model. VAZ 2109 gained popularity due to the presence of four doors. VAZ 2109 is a family car.

Modifications

VAZ-21099 is a modification of the sedan model. Left the factory in 1991. Technically, the car was a copy of the base model 2109.

VAZ-21093 is a modification of the Finnish assembly. Parts and components were supplied from the USSR, and assembly was carried out in Finland. According to car owners, the Finnish-assembled VAZ was of better quality.

VAZ-210991 is a special modification of the model. It was released in a limited edition. Manufacturers equipped the VAZ-210991 with rotary piston engines. The car accelerates to 200 km/h. Fuel consumption per 100 kilometers is 25 liters.

Engine

Depending on the modifications, manufacturers equipped cars with one of three engine options:

1.3-liter engine, 65 hp;
1.1-liter engine, 53 hp;
1.5-liter engine, 72 hp.

Complete replacement

In case of severe damage from corrosion or metal obsolescence, the bottom of the “nine” is completely replaced. This requires:

amplifiers;
thresholds;
jack;
connectors;
bottom;
spars.

To repair the “nine”, you can use one second of the bottom of the 2108 cabin.

Preparatory work

Before replacement, doors, fenders, and sills are dismantled. If there are traces of corrosion, the cover plate and connector are replaced. Installing braces for rigidity increases the accuracy of the work. Using a chisel, the old metal is removed down to the undamaged body. The internal surfaces of thresholds and cavities are treated with zinc chromate primer GF-073 before replacing the floor.

Along the lines connecting the threshold with the trim, holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled at a distance of 40–50 mm. The geometry is checked by installing doors in the openings, maintaining gaps of no more than 3 mm. The doors are then removed.

The threshold is welded to the trim with electric rivets through stitched holes, to the side of the body, to the central pillar - with a continuous seam. After completion of the work, the welding areas are cleaned with a grinding machine, primed, and coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

VAZ-2109: do-it-yourself car repair, car repair and maintenance manuals

Repair work on a VAZ car is one of the most popular services for which people turn to car repair shops. “VAZ-2109 repair” is a fairly common request on the Internet. This is quite easy to understand: VAZ is the most widespread domestic automobile product in Russia.

Subcompact cars, released in the early 1970s, are now an important part of driving life in our country. Almost half a century later, under the operating conditions of the Volzhsky plant, as many as 3 generations of cars changed. They differ from each other in design and components.

Find out the cost of repairing a VAZ-2109 online in 3 minutes

Don't waste your time - use the Uremont search and get offers from nearby services with specific prices!

How to properly service a VAZ-2109

The long journey of VAZ began from the first steps in the form of “kopecks” to the latest achievements such as “Grants” or “Vesta”. The latest cars do not give way to recognized foreign cars of the best quality. Our roads are still plied by car models that were produced back in the 70s.

To spite everyone who criticizes the Soviet automobile industry, these representatives of the domestic automobile industry are indicators of reliability. Of course, there is a need for regular maintenance, perhaps more often than, for example, BMW or Mercedes cars.

It is worth noting that the pricing policy of the market today makes such a drawback practically insignificant.

Taking into account the costs of repair work, which are relatively small, since the VAZ parts were produced in Russia, where payments are made in rubles and not in euros, we can confidently say that driving a Volga car on the roads of our Fatherland is a profitable enterprise!

DIY VAZ-2109 repair

VAZ car generations:

“Classics”: 2101, 21011, 2102 – 2107.
“Samara” and “Samara-2”: 2108, 2109 and 21099, “Ervosamara” 2113 (restyling of the “eight”), 21014 (restyling of the “nine”), 2115 (modification of the “ninety-nine”).
"Tens": 2110, 06, 09, 11, 12, and 21123.
Kalina and Kalina-2: 1117, 1118 and 1119, Kalina City, 2192, 2194.
“Priors” and “Grants”: 2171, 2172 “Grants” 2190, 2191.
Latest generation LADA B/C: Vesta.

In addition, the AvtoVAZ concern produces all-wheel drive small SUVs called NIVA (model 2121 and its subsequent versions), as well as Lada-Largus, which used to be the Romanian car DACIA Logan MCV.

Some of the developments originating from Tolyatti turned out to be so good that they were bought by global concerns. For example, the VAZ-2123 off-road car, developed in the 1980s to replace the Niva.

It turned out to be so good that the Americans from General Motors bought a license to produce it in Russia under the Chevrolet Niva brand - the only domestic “foreign car” of its kind, with 90 percent localization.

Speaking about the peculiarities of repairing people's cars, one can recall the joke “A VAZ is not a UAZ, it won’t go on its own!” The same can be said about the repair of the VAZ-2109.

This phrase contains the main feature of the car: if you take care of the vehicle, carrying out maintenance and repairs on time, the car will always reciprocate your feelings. It is generally accepted that the VAZ is a car with a “feminine spirit”, a “girl car”.

Sometimes the car is capricious, sometimes it is wayward, but if the owner maintains contact with his car, he receives loyalty in return.

Repair and maintenance of VAZ-2109

VAZ cars have a gasoline engine. The method of fuel injection into the combustion chamber may vary. Previously, engines were carburetors and the most common type of them was “Ozone”. However, at the moment the Volga auto industry is working with injection devices. The volume of a regular VAZ engine is 1569 cubic centimeters, and the power in the data sheet is 77 horsepower. About several million cars with this power rating are driving around Russia. The highest number of revolutions that the motor of these representatives can produce is 3000 per minute. The force is equal to 104 newtons. Many people know that AvtoVAZ is not the most economical option. Fuel consumption in the city slightly exceeds 10 liters. per 100 kilometers. It turns out that on the highway the consumption of these cars is more economical: about 7.4 liters. Experts from car service centers will tell you that a VAZ engine requires not only gasoline, but also oil. Such a vehicle “burns” approximately 70 g of oil for every hundred kilometers. To completely change the engine oil, 3.5 or 4 liters are required.

Although the car may seem unpretentious to you in maintenance, its power unit requires a responsible attitude and the purchase of good, high-quality consumables.

Repairing the chassis

In the manual of all domestic auto mechanics, “Repair and operation of a VAZ car,” an impressive part is devoted to the chassis, which in terms of the amount of information is in no way inferior to the description of engine characteristics.

The suspension of this model has a kind of “watershed”, which appeared in the 1980s, at a time when front-wheel drive VAZ cars had just appeared. The main distinguishing feature of the front-wheel drive of VAZ cars is the steering knuckle, which is connected to the front wheel drive.

If you start to notice some features on your vehicle, like:

vehicle deviation from the trajectory, inability to maintain course;
sensations of the car swaying longitudinally while driving;
knocking in the underbody area;
shock absorber leaks;
uneven tire wear;
difficulties when steering.

All these things are typical indicators that you need to get to a car service center and have your suspension repaired.

1) Warning icons on the dashboard: "Check Engine" indicator

The check engine light on the dashboard is the most common problem for car and truck owners. This light on the dash comes on when the ECU (Electronic Engine Control Unit) detects an error code in the system. For example, this happens when a sensor generates an error.

Since there are more than 200 possible error codes that can cause the engine light to come on, in order to determine the cause of the engine warning, you need to do an electronic diagnostic, which will show the error number. Using the code, you can determine what has gone wrong in the car. If you ignore this warning, there is a risk that it will lead to more serious engine damage.

Glass cleaners

Operating a vehicle with faulty wipers is prohibited. If the drive is working properly, but the quality of cleaning leaves much to be desired, replace the brushes immediately. This is an inexpensive consumable item, installation of which takes just a few minutes and does not require the use of specialized tools. Remember that in addition to comfort in bad weather, serviceable wipers significantly increase traffic safety, and timely replacement of the blades will help you avoid scratches on the windshield, which sometimes even expensive polishing cannot remove.

Also pay attention to the ability of the windshield wiper mechanism to operate at high speeds. As a rule, a decrease in their speed, regardless of the selected mode, indicates a malfunction in the drive

7) Generator failure

The alternator is the part of your car that keeps all the electrical systems running when you start the car. It is also responsible for supplying charge to the battery to keep it in peak condition. If the alternator breaks down, it can cause premature battery wear and other problems when starting the car.

Check your machine manual or service book for recommended maintenance intervals for your generator and replace it before it breaks to avoid problems.

Also note that many generators can be iterated over. This way you can save a lot of money.

3) High fuel consumption

When the engine is running efficiently, it burns fuel at a rate that helps in fuel efficiency (fuel economy). However, some parts of the fuel system, such as fuel filters, air filters, mass air flow sensor and oxygen sensors (lamb probe), become dirty and wear out over time.

If they are not replaced, this will cause the engine to use more fuel than usual. Again, a proactive attitude towards regular car maintenance will save you from the headaches caused by increased fuel consumption due to improper engine operation.