Ball joint on fret grant: selection and replacement

If you experience knocking noises from the front suspension, especially when driving on an uneven road with small holes or potholes, you should pay attention to the condition of the ball joints. On a Grant, factory ball joints can easily travel more than 100,000 km during normal operation, but there are also cases when this has to be done much more often. It is for such cases that this article will be written.

In order to replace the ball joints on the Grant, we will need the following tool:

  1. Hammer
  2. Mount
  3. Puller
  4. Key for 17 and 19
  5. Torx head e12
  6. Ratchet or crank

Photo report on replacing ball joints on Lada Granta

The first thing you need to do is put the car on a lift or jack up the front of it. After this, remove the wheel to gain access to the front suspension elements.

Then unscrew the two bolts securing the support to the steering knuckle, as shown in the photo below:

Then, using a 19mm wrench, we tear off, but do not completely unscrew the lower nut attaching to the front suspension arm of the Grant:

And now you can use a special puller to press the ball joint pin out of the lever, or use a hammer and pry bar for this purpose.

After removing the finger, you can remove the support completely, move the lever to the side:

If it is not possible to move the lever to the side using a pry bar, then you can use a jack and a brick, as is clearly shown in the photo below.

We take a new ball, remove the boot and thoroughly push it inside with lubricant, such as Litol. After which you can install the new ball in its place. Of course, you will have to suffer quite a bit until the support gets into place, but if you have a jack and pry bars, everything can be done without any problems.

We tighten all the bolts and nuts to the required torque and put all the other parts in their places. With this, we can consider this repair of the Lada Granta complete. The price of a new ball joint is no more than 400 rubles for the original product from AvtoVAZ. There are cheaper options, but in this case you can save on both price and quality!

Source: https://avtozam.ru/vaz/zamena-sharovoj-lada-granta-vaz-granta.html

Photo report on replacing ball joints on Lada Granta

The first thing you need to do is put the car on a lift or jack up the front of it.
After this, remove the wheel to gain access to the front suspension elements. Then unscrew the two bolts securing the support to the steering knuckle, as shown in the photo below:

Then, using a 19mm wrench, we tear off, but do not completely unscrew the lower nut attaching to the front suspension arm of the Grant:

And now you can use a special puller to press the ball joint pin out of the lever, or use a hammer and pry bar for this purpose.

After removing the finger, you can remove the support completely, move the lever to the side:

If it is not possible to move the lever to the side using a pry bar, then you can use a jack and a brick, as is clearly shown in the photo below.

We take a new ball, remove the boot and thoroughly push it inside with lubricant, such as Litol. After which you can install the new ball in its place. Of course, you will have to suffer quite a bit until the support gets into place, but if you have a jack and pry bars, everything can be done without any problems.

We tighten all the bolts and nuts to the required torque and put all the other parts in their places. With this, we can consider this repair of the Lada Granta complete. The price of a new ball joint is no more than 400 rubles for the original product from AvtoVAZ. There are cheaper options, but in this case you can save on both price and quality!

Malfunctions and their symptoms

Of course, ball joints do not always please their owners with impeccable performance over hundreds of thousands of kilometers. Sometimes they feel bad much earlier. What could be the reason? As a rule, there are three of them:

Certain symptoms may indicate that you are waiting for a ball joint replacement, which simply cannot be ignored. Among them are:

Of course, these signs do not always indicate problematic ball joints, but, in any case, when they appear, you need to immediately go to a service station, where experienced technicians will be able to make a final and correct diagnosis.

That's all, friends. Enjoy your trips, healthy and obedient cars! Don't miss new publications!

One of the most important elements of the front suspension is the ball joint. True, they used to be used on the rear axle, but these were isolated cases when the rear wheels were able to steer in time with the front ones (nowadays this design is practically not used). The support, as a support bearing itself, allows your wheels to deflect (simply turn), without this design this would not be possible. In this article I will talk about the device, how it works and whether it can be repaired to make it last forever. In general, as usual, there will be a lot of useful information, so continue reading...

THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE

Let's start with the definition

A ball joint (or ball mount) is a connecting part that allows the elements attached to it to rotate in several planes. Usually one part is attached rigidly, but the second part is attached movably. Usually used in the front suspension, there can be either one or up to 4 pieces.

The guys are an integral part, which simply must carry out complex, heavy-duty work; now ball bearings have stepped far forward in their technology, so they can go for hundreds of thousands of kilometers without replacement.

Front suspension VAZ 2110 from Priora

The next time you replace suspension elements, everyone thinks about which kit to choose. Most simply install a new VAZ suspension set (struts, supports and springs), while others are not satisfied with this set and therefore choose an imported suspension. The third option could be replacing the VAZ 2110 suspension with a Priorovskaya one. The Priora front suspension kit, which will be installed on the top ten, consists of:

In addition, steering ends, ball joints, and new alignment bolts were purchased. We lift the front part of the car and remove the wheel. To remove the strut, you need to unscrew it from the body cup and steering knuckle, then use a puller to press out the steering pin. We hang the steering knuckle so as not to damage the brake hoses when replacing the ball hoses. Unscrew the ball from the knuckle (two bolts), move it to the side and use a puller to remove the ball from the suspension arm. In this case, the lever was dangling in the silent block (daisy), with an amplitude of 1 cm. Therefore, after removing the lever, the daisies fell out on their own, and the outer clips remained in the lever. We remove them and clean the seat. We install a new set.

We press in the front suspension extension joint as follows.
The result was like this.
We install the lever together with washers that regulate the longitudinal angle of the rack. We install a new ball.
To avoid counting the number of revolutions when removing the steering tip, I used a caliper.
We tighten the suspension spring with zip ties.
Unscrew the stand support.
Because There was no new bump stop and protective cover for the strut rod, so I had to take it from the old one. Here is a set of racks for Lada Priora.
Lada Priora strut support
Rack support assembly
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How does it work?

As you understand, a closed “ball” can rotate in any direction, even spin. A fixed mount is attached to the cylindrical body, which is installed in the necessary suspension elements - this part is not movable. But the upper threaded pin is attached to the moving parts, thanks to which they can turn or even rotate.

In old rear-wheel drive cars, for example our VAZs, there were about 3 ball joints. Two were located in the burdocks and allowed the caliper to rotate along with the wheel. One was located in the steering rod and pushed the wheels.

The MacPherson suspension has greatly simplified the design. Here, as we know, there is a support bearing and it allows the strut and caliper to rotate, but the ball joint remains at the bottom. There are also steering links that push the calipers, causing the wheels to turn. There are only two ball joints here.

It is also worth mentioning that there are options with four supports, but they are quite rare and should not be considered.

Now there may be objections - that the ball joint and the steering tip are not the same thing. Guys, the only differences are in the mounting of the case, the essence of the work is the same.

If we summarize the work, the following comes out: you turn the steering wheel, the force passes through the steering rack to the caliper, and in order for it to turn, hinge joints are needed, this is exactly the work that the supports, steering tips and, of course, the support bearing do.

Video review on replacing ball joints on Grant

For those who are too lazy to understand photo reports, everything can be shown clearly and easily using the example of a video review, which was taken from open sources.

This concludes this repair report.

Before starting work, you need to prepare: a set of keys, a universal puller, a jack, WD-40 fluid, as well as new spare parts.

1. Before starting work, apply a few drops of WD-40 to threaded connections that you think may have problems. They will be different for everyone, it all depends on the condition of the car, the roads on which it drives, and the attitude of the owner towards this car...

2. Unscrew the ball joints. There are two TORX bolts that are attached to the hub; for this we take an E12 head.

5. Using a universal puller, press the ball joint out of the lever. If you don’t have a puller, you can use a crowbar, but in this case there is a high probability of damage to the CV joint boot if the crowbar comes off.

Replacement or repair

It is quite easy to diagnose failure - firstly, knocks and squeaks appear when turning the steering wheel and driving on poor road surfaces. Secondly, we go to a service station, where the master takes a “mounting rod” or a crowbar, inserts it between the support or “steering” and the lever (caliper body) begins light movements. If the “ball” is working, then it will not knock; if it is broken, play will appear - a replacement is needed.

Of course, you can simply replace the support, this is the easiest way and, in my opinion, the correct one. It doesn’t cost that much money, so once in 100,000 you can go broke. It’s better to change them in pairs at once, that is, if one “ball” rattles, then you should replace two at once, that’s right. Moreover, after replacing them, it is advisable to do a wheel alignment.

However, the most economical ones are looking for repair solutions - and they find them. I remember in Soviet times, when there was a shortage of spare parts, ball joints were successfully repaired. Moreover, they were already sold with the possibility of repair.

Repair work consists of replacing the polymer insert and installing a new one in its place.

Let me emphasize once again - the old supports were repaired, but the new ones are often not dismountable! Although “traditional craftsmen” cut out the bottom, cut the threads, install new polymer gaskets, put everything back into the body and use it further. It should be noted that there seems to be a sense, such a support turns out to be almost eternal, change the polymer filler after a certain mileage - and that’s ALL! However, not everyone can do it well. But the danger from an incorrectly restored ball joint is much more real - so it’s better to buy original new ones and “don’t worry”! However, your safety and the lives of your loved ones depend on their proper operation.

Now let's watch the video version.

I’ll end here, I think it was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

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Wear of suspension elements is usually characterized by the appearance of a knocking sound in the front of the car when driving over small irregularities. It is difficult for an inexperienced motorist to determine by the sound which part has “gone bad” and requires replacement. But you can diagnose the problem yourself if you figure out how to check the ball joint. After all, it is its breakdown that leads to the wheel coming off and an inevitable accident. The wear of other elements - stabilizer seals, silent blocks and bearings is not so critical and allows you to operate the car for some time.

Which racks to choose for the Lada Granta - install normal spare parts

Selecting quality parts for car maintenance and repair is an important task for every motorist. In order for the car restoration to be high-quality and durable, it is better to use the most interesting options for parts with a sufficiently high quality. It is worth remembering that the reliability of spare parts determines their service life, as well as the quality of operation. Unfortunately, the cost of parts also greatly depends on this factor. Today we will talk about the racks that are best used on the Lada Grant. Considering the fact that factory suspension elements fail after a maximum of 50,000 kilometers, you have to look for something more interesting and non-standard. You can buy factory solutions again only under warranty, when you will receive a free replacement and will not charge money directly for the racks.

Today you can buy a shock absorber liner from any manufacturer, including some of the most amazing brands from around the world. In this case, it is not necessary to change the rack assembly; you can make a constructor by installing an insert of a specific selected type. This will completely change the behavior of the car. The stock shock absorbers on the Grant are simply amazing - they behave exactly as the Lada 2110 did back in 1998. There have been no significant changes in the suspension. At least regarding the struts and operating comfort of the car. There are different brands and specific recommendations for the types of racks. Let's take a closer look at each aspect of purchasing new suspension parts. This will help you better service your car and obtain the necessary features for operating a vehicle.

Oil or gas-oil - the first question that needs to be resolved

If you take inexpensive racks that are made in Russia or China, then there are virtually no differences between oil and gas-oil. But when you buy products from a great brand, you can notice a very noticeable difference. In particular, gas-oil will be a very tough sports solution. Oil shock absorbers offer customers a number of specific advantages that will be important in the operation of vehicles:

Of course, it all depends on the brand. You can buy an excellent Japanese version of the insert and get simply wonderful operating possibilities. There is the option of purchasing a cheap Chinese rack and being completely disappointed in its use. But for now, let's limit ourselves to making a decision on the type of shock absorber. It can be a soft oil or a sports gas-oil type.

Manufacturer is one of the most difficult questions for the buyer

Buying unusual, expensive shock absorbers is becoming a necessity today. In conditions of very tough competition and the global crisis in the automotive market, cheap companies are starting to produce worse and worse spare parts. Therefore, the products of some corporations have long ceased to be reliable and of high quality. It is worth highlighting the following brands as an ideal solution for Lada Granta when purchasing racks:

So there are not many chances to choose from brands. Of course, you can try Monroe struts or buy some racing solutions from France and Germany. But this will be too expensive. The same as Kayaba, but this solution is classic, and is simply perfect for the Lada Granta. If you have enough money for a Japanese manufacturer, buy their offers for your car.

Springs and strut supports for Lada Granta - choose the best

It is better to install original springs. No manufacturer offers the same accuracy as VAZ in this case. There is only one reason for this - no one wants a manufacturer of springs specifically for Grants to do it efficiently and cheaply. Therefore, you have to give preference to stock solutions. As for the upper and ball joints of the Lada Granta struts, it is worth paying attention to the following features:

There is an opinion that factory spare parts are always better than analog ones. But in the case of the Lada Granta this is not at all the case. Sometimes you can find quite adequate spare parts that fit Granta from German and Japanese brands. And then you can buy really wonderful additions and parts that last for years. However, any part has its own service life, and this also needs to be remembered.

Replacing Lada Granta struts and supports - several important features

If the rear suspension is more or less clear, then the front suspension always hides more mysteries. It is the front struts and supports that most often fail. Unless you constantly pull a trailer or tow careless friends. The load on the front of the car is always increased, so you often have to work with the front suspension parts. Changing the front struts on a Grant is not so easy:

You need to acquire tools such as a set of wrenches and sockets, a spring puller, a pry bar, pliers, screwdrivers and other available tools. Otherwise, you will not be able to completely disassemble the part and carry out its normal restoration. Of course, there are certain difficulties in carrying out this process, so it is better to take your Lada Granta for service and complete all the work in just over an hour. We invite you to watch the video of the process of replacing the strut on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles:

Ball selection, articles

The choice of ball joints for the Lada Kalina should be treated carefully, since it determines what loads the car can withstand:

Original

If you believe the spare parts catalog, then the original catalog number of the Lada Kalina ball joint is 2108-2904185 . The average cost is 1000 rubles per piece.

Analogs

Let's consider possible options for replacing the original spare part:

As you can see from the table, you can buy an analogue cheaper than the original. But don’t go to extremes and buy the cheapest.

Symptoms and causes of element wear

While driving, a worn ball joint manifests itself as follows:

If you find one of these signs, you should contact a service station for diagnostics or check the functionality of the parts yourself and without a lift. The service life of ball joints on cars made in Russia, China and Korea is in the range of 20-50 thousand km. Higher quality parts of European and Japanese foreign cars can last up to 150 thousand kilometers. It is necessary to focus on these intervals when troubleshooting .

Contrary to popular belief, the behavior of a car with worn joints when driving on a flat road changes little. The deviation from a straight line and the lateral abrasion of the rubber are so small that an inexperienced driver will not notice the changes, unless the ball joint becomes completely loose. A clear sign is a distinct knocking sound.


Accelerated wear of joints occurs for the following reasons:

Torn boots are one of the main reasons for premature failure of ball joints. You will maximize their service life if you notice defects in the protective covers in time and replace them.

DIY car suspension diagnostics

Suspension boots, bushings and silent blocks

Covers (often called “boots”) protect critical components of the car from premature wear (for example, CV joints). We carefully inspect the car from below for the integrity of the joint covers. Torn anthers do more harm than good, because... Dirt accumulates in them, which soon ends up in the unit itself. If the torn boot is not replaced immediately, then the unit will soon come to an end, so when replacing the unit, the boot is also changed immediately. Rubber bushings in the suspension elements absorb hard impacts from the road, preventing them from transferring to the body, and also simultaneously work as hinges, ensuring the mobility of the suspension parts .

Rear suspension rods sometimes have a bump that protrudes into the eye. It quickly wears out the new rubber bushings, so the bump should be ground off or the rod replaced. xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai

Shock absorber

This element is a damping device. The shock absorber serves to reduce the range of vibrations of the car body. In other words, the element prevents spontaneous rocking. The work of the shock absorber is based on hydraulic resistance. Inside it there is a liquid of a certain viscosity. It moves through a special valve. Thus, the device absorbs sharp impacts while preserving vulnerable suspension parts. Therefore, the shock absorber is one of the most important components in the chassis. On our roads, this element lasts about 60-80 thousand kilometers. But this period may be shorter, even with careful driving. It is enough just to damage the protective boot, and all the dirt will accumulate in the rod seal.

Also note that the damping element changes in pairs. That is, in the event of a breakdown of the rear left shock absorber, the rear right shock absorber also changes. As for the front struts, they are more durable. Often they are replaced already assembled with a spring, since they fail no earlier than after 150-200 thousand kilometers.

Removing the ball joint Lada Granta

Tool:

Parts and consumables:

Notes:

The operation is carried out when diagnosing the replacement of a ball joint, as well as when performing other repair work on the chassis for which this operation is necessary.

The work is carried out in an inspection pit or overpass using a special puller for ball joints.

1. Place the vehicle on an inspection ditch or overpass.

2. Tighten the handbrake and place a wheel chock (shoe) under the rear wheels.

3. Raise the front of the car and remove the wheel from the side of the ball joint being removed.

4. Treat the screws holding the ball joint to the steering knuckle with penetrating fluid (WD-40).

5. Unscrew the nut securing the ball joint to the front suspension arm.

6. Press the ball joint pin out of the arm using a ball joint remover.

Note:

If there is no puller, unscrew the nut securing the ball joint pin only partially. Place the adjustable stop under the nut with the pin, tighten it and, striking the lever with a hammer, press the pin out of the lever.

After pressing the pin out of the lever, unscrew the nut completely.

7. Using the E-12 head, unscrew the two screws securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.

Successful design is the key to success

So, it’s time to find out what the secret of the ball joint is, and to do this, let’s look at its design. Let's be honest - there is nothing supernatural in it, and on the contrary, it is an extremely simple mechanism.

The average ball joint of a modern car consists of the following elements:

As we can see, there is nothing complicated, and the attached illustration quite clearly lets us understand how everything works.

Modern ball joints are consumables, that is, they are maintenance-free and, in the event of failure, can only be replaced.

Previously, designers took a more rational approach to these parts, and provided them with special holes through which lubricant could be pressed inside, but nowadays this is irrelevant, because thanks to the high-strength plastics used for the liners, these suspension elements can travel up to 150 thousand kilometers without any problems .

What support bearings are best for Kalina? Stop overpaying

Among car enthusiasts, the debate continues about which support bearings are best installed on Kalina. After all, everyone knows that the suspension on this car is not very reliable. Repairs have to be made regularly, especially with frequent trips over potholes. The manufacturer recommends repairs every 30,000-40,000 kilometers. But often parts will have to be replaced much more often. In this situation, the high maintainability of the model helps. Almost all actions to restore suspension performance can be done in the garage yourself. For this, a standard set of tools is used. Which support bearings are best installed on Kalina? This question usually arises among people who carry out major suspension repairs. The supports last much longer than the racks; their service life is not regulated by the manufacturer. In fact, they last about 80,000 kilometers. Experienced drivers prefer to change them every 2 strut replacements. It is also recommended to install new bearings when replacing the stock suspension. At the same time, AvtoVAZ representatives do not recommend using only “original” spare parts for installation. On sale you can find several offers from various factories. Lada. Regular stock supports are available in stores under this name. They do not shine with special quality. Even completely serviceable bearings can knock. You can purchase bearings separately, and assembled supports are also offered under this brand. Since official dealers recommend using just such spare parts, you will have to install them when replacing them during the warranty period. ASOMI. Here you can find a wide selection of different supports. This allows you to select parts for your driving style and operating characteristics. But car enthusiasts note that only the price differs here. The ride quality of these supports is almost the same. Unlike stock ones, they make virtually no knocks or other sounds. The service life of the parts is somewhat longer, this became possible due to the displacement of the axes of the fastening bolts. Buyers are attracted primarily by the low price, which is complemented by good quality. Also, spare parts of this brand can be found in almost every spare parts store.SS20. All car enthusiasts who actively use domestically produced cars have heard about this brand. The company specializes in the production of steering and suspension parts. Among other things, support bearings are also produced. In total there are 4 items intended for Kalina. This is the widest range among manufacturers of suspension parts for VAZ. All support bearings differ in their characteristics. This allows you to select parts based on your requirements. The cheapest bearings are offered at stock prices. At the same time, their service life is 2 times longer compared to factory parts. Also, such bearings cause less trouble during operation. They do not knock or creak, which makes operating the machine quite comfortable. You can purchase better quality bearings; they can be installed, including with sports suspension. They are only offered complete with support. The most expensive option is a support for a sports suspension. The bearing here is made as resistant to increased loads as possible. This allows it to be used for various sports disciplines. The manufacturer recommends using sports supports only in conjunction with a similar suspension. You won't find spare parts for suspension from this manufacturer in stores. They are sold only via the Internet, as well as through several large trading companies located in large cities. This limits the distribution of these parts among car enthusiasts. But, everyone who has ever tried to ride the SS20 suspension notes its high reliability and comfort. KYB (Kayaba). The line of this Japanese manufacturer also includes support bearings for the front strut. They are not sold separately. These parts are included in the suspension kit for Kalina. Therefore, it makes sense to purchase them in case of complete replacement of the stock chassis. Pay attention to the possibility of fakes. Purchase spare parts from this manufacturer only in the official online store. The suspension from this manufacturer is quite reliable, but you should not use its elements together with parts from other manufacturers. Conclusion. Drivers pay little attention to such a detail as the strut support bearing. Therefore, not all drivers are wondering which support bearings are best to install on Kalina. But the driving performance of the car largely depends on this. If you need to replace parts, be sure to pay attention to the manufacturer and the features of this spare part. AutoFlit.ru

Failure and resource

The resource directly depends on the polymer liner inside; if it breaks, the metal finger begins to move and finishes off the plastic. Knocks and clicks appear on bumps and turns. However, with the development of polymer technologies, the service life of this part has increased significantly, I remember on our rear-wheel drive VAZs, this was one of the weak points, the “ball” ones were changed after 20 - 30,000 kilometers. With front-wheel drive, on an average foreign car, these elements can travel for 150,000 kilometers; of course, it all depends on the road surface and the driver’s driving style. But progress is obvious, the resource has been significantly increased. It is recommended to check the ball and steering joints at 75,000 kilometers or at the fifth maintenance.

The main reason for failure is the breakthrough of the boot; as soon as it fails (it simply breaks), sand, dirt and other “delights” of our roads immediately get into the hinge joint - they act on the polymer inside like an abrasive, and the metal ball some only aggravate the situation by rubbing particles of sand and dirt with force.

Thus, the polymer insert wears out, the “finger” begins to move up and down and in other directions, that is, play appears, which simply “kills” the support from the inside. Just knocks and squeaks characterize the wear of the internal polymer part.

Replacement or repair is needed - by the way, that is also possible.

Price for the Lada Granta ball replacement service

Contact us by phone or write online, get advice and individual conditions for repairing your car.

To get a preliminary estimate of the cost of car repairs, write or just call +7 (499) 504 1663.

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1) You call the car service and describe the problem to a qualified technician, who gives detailed advice and announces a preliminary cost.

2) Come to the car service for diagnostics, after which we open a work order in 2 copies, where we agree on the work plan and approve the cost.

Layout of front suspension parts

1 — anti-roll bar; 2 — rubber-metal joint of the transverse arm; 3 — shock absorber strut; 4 - stretching; 5 — extension bracket; 6 — nut for fastening the extension to the bracket; 7 — ball support of the shock absorber strut; 8 — joint of the anti-roll bar; 9 — wishbone; 10 — bracket for securing the stabilizer bar.

Source

If the protruding edges of the rubber bushings of the rods, suspension arms or shock absorber eyes are cracked, then it makes sense to replace them
If the pin has moved from the center of the eyes to the edge, then the rubber bushing is badly worn or torn, so in this case only replacement with a new one is required.
To determine the wear of the silent blocks (these are rubber-metal hinges) of the suspension arms, you need to use a pry bar or a crowbar so that there is enough force to move the arm relative to the body. If there is play or a knock is heard, then it’s time to change the silent block. The same technique works for other hinges. In this case, the condition of the silent blocks cannot be determined with bare hands.
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