Replacing the ball joint on a Lada Priora with your own hands. Ball joint of a Priora car: tips for checking and replacing

Signs of a bad ball joint

The suspension transmits all the bumps and potholes of the road, taking the entire blow upon itself - it serves as protection against the constant rocking of passengers and drivers in the cabin, creating conditions for a comfortable trip. Therefore, in order to understand that something is faulty in the suspension, it is not necessary to go to a service center for diagnostics. Separately, the causes of ball malfunction include the following symptoms:

The rubber on the tires eats up more (you can blame the wrong wheel alignment, but if the car doesn’t drive, it’s most likely the fault of the ball joint);
When driving over uneven surfaces, unusual sounds are heard, and the car becomes less stable, it “throws” at the slightest bumps - this is how the support fingers slowly “die”;
When turning, the car does not seem to react to the steering wheel and does not turn immediately; and at speeds above 30 km/h a knocking sound begins in the front suspension;
It’s as if the car doesn’t “hold” the road, and the steering wheel turns harder and harder, with very unpleasant sounds. It seems that the wheels are starting to play, which indicates the urgency of the repair.

What sound does the ball joint make?

Clanging or squeaking sounds

in the front suspension.
When play appears between the pin and the support
, the suspension parts rub against each other when moving. As a result, clanging, creaking and knocking noises will be heard. The more wear, the louder this unpleasant “music”.

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Detailed manual for replacing ball joints

We will need 17 and 19 mm wrenches, preferably socket wrenches so as not to tear off the nuts, WD40, a ball joint remover, and a hammer. So, jack up the car, put stops under the rear wheels and remove the wheel.

Next, using WD40, we spray the bolts securing the ball joint to the lever and the ball joint nut itself so that there is no difficulty in unscrewing them. Let’s wait a few minutes until they “dissolve” and get to work.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the ball joint nut and a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the lever.

Now we need a ball joint remover, it can be of several types, the principle is the same - remove the ball joint from the lever.

We take a new ball joint and, for our own peace of mind, check the grease under the boot. Carefully remove it and check - if there is no grease, fill the boot with Litol or similar grease. Be careful not to damage the boot.

Now install the new ball in the reverse order. You will have to tinker with the installation when screwing the ball to the lever.

We advise you not to install cheap balls of questionable quality, as they will affect the performance of the suspension and handling in general. A good option for ball conveyor BELMAG or TRACK.

Replacing ball joints Lada Priora - step-by-step instructions

1. First of all, tighten the handbrake, put wheel chocks under the wheels, jack up the car and remove the wheel. I think everything is clear here, no need to describe it!?

2. Using a “19” wrench, loosen the ball pin nut.

3. Using a ball puller, press the support out of the lever.

4. When the finger comes out of the seat, unscrew the two mounting bolts, which are indicated by a yellow pointer.

Use a pry bar to remove the ball joint.

The support is now released and can be removed.

Take a new Priora ball joint, remove the boot from it, then fill it with lubricant, for example Litol.

Reinstall the boot, then reassemble everything in reverse order.

What is a ball joint?

The ball joint is a vehicle suspension element that provides a rigid and reliable fastening, while maintaining limited mobility of the arms relative to the wheel hub. When you are driving a car, the front wheels have two functions: to ensure that the car moves along the road, and also to provide the ability to maneuver - turning left and right. To maneuver and move correctly, the wheels must be positioned correctly relative to the road, that is, they must be level, freely roll back and forth, freely controlled by the steering wheel, and also firmly attached to the axle. To meet these requirements, a suspension was developed in which ball joints play a very important role. They connect the suspension arms and the steering wheel hub.

Initially, the ball joint was installed only in front-wheel drive cars, thanks to which the wheels could be turned around the vertical. Since the invention of the ball joint some 40 years ago, little has changed in its design.

The ball joint mainly ensures that the wheel remains in a fixed position horizontally while it rotates vertically. The ball joint pin can move in a circle in the body, while it will swing at a small angle. That is, the ball joint performs both rotational and limited movements of the finger in the plane where it is fixed.

Often, all elements of the ball joint are made of steel. In order to reduce friction between surfaces that are in contact, the surface of the spherical recess is coated with plastic or other polymer. But there are also ball joints that are devoid of this polymer coating. Often, such elements are installed in “older” domestic cars. Such models were equipped with collapsible supports; the gaps in them were removed by tightening the lid.

There are two known ways to install ball joints. The first method is to attach it to the lever using bolts. The second way is to press it into it. If a ball joint secured with bolts breaks, then only it can be replaced. If the pressed ball joint fails, then it will be necessary to change the suspension arm itself, in which the pressed ball joint will be in good working order. But the financial expenses in this case will be much greater, since you will have to buy not just a new support, but an entire lever.

Due to its functions, the ball joint experiences significant loads. Most machines rest on a very small surface area of the ball. Considering the total weight of cargo and passengers, poor quality of roads and decent speed, the load on the ball joint increases significantly. For these reasons, the unit wears out and fails. When you buy a new ball joint, it is better to choose a part from the original manufacturer. The market is filled with a large number of brands that produce something similar to the original ball joints, but your choice should fall on products only from trusted manufacturers.

The most common option is the front suspension, which has two ball joints, one per wheel. Most SUVs are equipped with four ball joints in the front suspension, with two of them per wheel. A very rare situation is when there are three balls. Modern cars with independent multi-link rear suspension also have ball joints on the rear wheels.

How to remove a ball joint without a puller?

Removing and replacing the ball joint is a fairly common task, which, although unpleasant, is doable.
It is impossible to change the support on a modern car and on a classic one using the same steps. The reason for this is the different design. Modern cars have more advanced ball joints. Still, if a problem arises, you must first of all understand the question: “Do I need to repair the ball joint or replace it?” In order to give the correct answer, you need to diagnose the chassis; you can do this yourself, but only if someone helps you. First you need to understand what diagnostics are. Method number one is to determine the condition of the support: lift the wheel, grab the bottom and top with both hands, and then try to shake it. This will make it possible to determine whether there is any play. The second method is more reliable. Use a crowbar or pry bar to try to get under the car. Fix it in the center between the lower lever and the edge of the support, then push it up. This way you can see the play. The third method is the most correct and accurate. You need to do the following:

1) Dismantle the ball joint and check it in your hands;

2) Clamp it in a vice, and then check the radial and axial play of the pin. Malfunctions will be indicated by the ability to move the finger without much effort. This is a signal that the ball joint needs to be replaced.

The ball joint wears out faster due to:

1) Lack of lubrication;

2) Gusts in the boot;

3) Excessively long operation;

4) The presence of a defect in one of the parts.

Before you start work, prepare all the necessary tools. You will need:

1) Socket wrenches for “17” and “19”;

2) Mounting;

3) Hammer;

4) Rust remover;

5) Metal brush;

6) Lift and stand for the car;

The process of removing a ball joint without a puller

The likelihood that you will cope with the procedure for removing the support yourself without a puller is extremely high, so get down to business quickly so as not to waste time.
You need to do the following: 1) Using a jack, lift the car and place it on some stationary object.

2) Put the car on the handbrake or place bricks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling away.

3) Remove the wheel from the side where the broken ball joint is located.

4) In order to have the best access to the junction of the ball and the lever, you need to turn the steering wheel accordingly.

5) Clean the joints using a metal brush.

6) Coat the ball joint pin with anti-rust agent, after which you will have a few minutes to rest while it takes effect.

7) Using a wrench set to “19”, unscrew the pin nut and remove it. Next, you would need a puller, but if you don’t have one, proceed as follows.

Take a pry bar and secure it so that when you press on one end, it presses on the suspension arm. The mount can be installed in the steering knuckle.

9) If there is a lot of rust on the parts, remove it with a product.

10) After the lever is under the required pressure, try to knock it out with a sharp blow of a hammer at the junction of the lever with the ball.

11) After disconnecting the lever and the ball joint, press the lever with a pry bar and move the steering knuckle.

12) Using a key set to “17”, remove the pair of bolts that connect the ball and steering knuckle.

13) The ball joint is free.

How to change it yourself: step-by-step instructions

There are two methods for replacing a ball joint on a Renault Logan - with and without removing the lever. In the first case, it is more convenient to dismantle the faulty ball joint, in the second - there is less assembly and disassembly work. In the instructions we consider both options. Basic steps:

remove the wheel;
remove the caliper;
unscrew and knock out the ball joint;
remove the lever (with the first method);
press out the old support;
press in a new one;
assemble in reverse order.

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Let's take a closer look at each point.

There shouldn't be any problems removing the wheel. But when removing the caliper, you need to unscrew the two 18mm mounting bolts, and then release the brake pads. This can be done using a screwdriver or a small pry bar. To decompress, rest not against the disc, but against the pad. After dismantling, hang the caliper higher on the suspension spring using wire or rope.

Now we have access to the ball joint. It is secured with a bolt and nut. Immediately unscrew the nut and knock out the bolt or gradually unscrew it, pressing from the reverse side. At the mounting point on the steering knuckle there is a special slot into which you need to drive a large screwdriver (like a wedge). After which you can pull out the ball.

Drive a screwdriver into the slot of the steering knuckle and remove the ball

The next step depends on the replacement method you choose. If you decide to try to pull out the support without removing the lever, then you need to select a suitable piece of pipe or other spacer. The main conditions are that the length allows one end of the device to rest against the ground, and the other end against the suspension arm. And the diameter should be slightly larger than the bottom of the ball, so that when knocked out it will fall inward. If the boot remains intact, it is better to remove it. It may come in handy in the future, since the anthers are not supplied separately (some install them from the Gazelle, but you will have to struggle with installation).

If the old boot is intact, it is better to keep it

Next, knock out the old part with a hammer. Be sure to check for the presence of a retaining ring on the ball housing. The original supports do not have them, but some “analogs” are included. If any are found, remove the ring and then knock it out.
To install a new spare part, a 34 or 36 head is suitable. Use it as a spacer, resting it on the lower part of the support. The splines of the ball must match the splines of the lever. There is no need to rush at this stage. If the new support enters the lever at an angle, you will not be able to press it in correctly. What’s worse is that in this case the seat in the lever is deformed, and you will have to buy the lever assembly. Therefore, proceed carefully.

Diagnostics, removal and replacement of the Lada Priora ball joint

The service life of ball joints on a Lada Priora depends on the operating conditions of the vehicle, and on the quality of the part itself, that is, the ball joint. They can cover several thousand km and 30-40 thousand. Factory installed parts last quite a long time. For example, the average service life of factory ball joints is 50-70 thousand kilometers. In this article we will take a detailed look at the issue of not only replacing ball joints, but also tell you which ones are better to buy and how to check them.

How to check a ball joint on a Priora

So, to make sure that the support needs to be replaced, it needs to be checked in several simple ways. Jack up the wheel and, placing your hands on the top and bottom points of the wheel, try to shake it. If you feel play, the ball joint may be faulty. Also, the cause of play may be the tips or stabilizer struts.

Another way to check is to drive into an inspection hole or overpass and use a mount or pry bar to check the ball play. Place the pry bar between the ball and the lever and try to shake it. A faulty ball will play easily, which indicates either high wear or lack of lubrication.

Carefully inspect the support, its boot should be intact, and it itself should be without chips or signs of deformation.

Signs of a bad ball joint

When driving over small potholes and bumps, a distinct knocking sound is heard in the suspension.
When turning, you may hear a grinding or squeaking sound, and the steering wheel may also be harder to turn.
The car holds the road poorly, the wheels seem to blur on the asphalt.
If you notice that there is “rubber”, one of the reasons may be the failure of the ball joints.

In order to accurately verify the malfunction of the ball joints, you must contact either specialists or independently, according to the instructions indicated above, carry out inspection and diagnostics. If during a visual inspection you find that the boot on the ball joint is torn, this basis is sufficient to replace it. Because dust and dirt get on the ball pin, mix with the lubricant and it fails.

Which ball joint to choose for Lada Priora

Today, a fairly large selection of balls is offered, from Chinese to conveyor and even reinforced ones. The choice is up to the buyer.

BZAK BA08-2904192-01 from 250 rub. piece
TRACK BJ70-107, 2108-2904192 from 300 RUR
LADA IMAGE 2110-2904192-82 from 400 RUR
AMT-Miass AM08-2904192 from 220 rub.
BELMAG BM10-2904192-01 reinforced with fastening (conveyor) from 500 rub.
VAZINTERSERVICE /OAT/ VIS08-2904185-10 sunset - from 350 rub.
ASOMI, Tolyatti A110.2904.193 Comfort PRO from 500 rub.

The most expensive conveyor ball joints are from the BELMAG company; also in terms of price, the ball joints from ASOMI, which also produces front and rear struts, as well as support bearings, stand out.

Detailed manual for replacing ball joints

We will need 17 and 19 mm wrenches, preferably socket wrenches so as not to tear off the nuts, WD40, a ball joint remover, and a hammer.

So, jack up the car, put stops under the rear wheels and remove the wheel.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the ball joint nut and a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the lever.

Now we need a ball joint remover, it can be of several types, the principle is the same - remove the ball joint from the lever.

Now install the new ball in the reverse order. You will have to tinker with the installation when screwing the ball to the lever.

We advise you not to install cheap balls of questionable quality, as they will affect the performance of the suspension and handling in general. A good option for ball conveyor BELMAG or TRACK.

Checking the condition of the chassis and transmission

We check the condition of the chassis and transmission every 15 thousand kilometers. The parts of the chassis (wheels, suspension arms, anti-roll bar, rear suspension beam, shock absorbers and suspension springs) and transmission (front wheel drive shafts) must be free of deformations, cracks and other mechanical damage that affect the shape and strength of the parts. Hanging the front wheels one by one (while the car must be securely fixed on the support stand), we check the condition of the wheel hub bearings.

Use only factory-made support stands. The wheel should rotate evenly by hand, without jamming or knocking.

Holding the wheel in a vertical plane, we alternately sharply pull the upper part of the wheel toward ourselves, and the lower part away from us, and vice versa. We make sure there is no play (knock). If there is a knock on the front wheel, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal. If the knocking noise disappears, then the wheel bearing is faulty, and if the knocking noise remains, then the ball joint is most likely worn out. The hub bearings of the front and rear wheels are not adjustable and must be replaced if there is play. To check the serviceability of the ball joint, insert a mounting blade between the suspension arm and the ball joint housing. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot.

While pressing the lever with a mounting blade, we monitor the movement of the lever head relative to the ball joint housing. If there is play in the connection, replace the ball joint.

We check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints. We replace ball joints with torn or cracked covers. To check the silent block of the front suspension arm...

...insert a mounting blade between the body bracket and the lever head... ...and try to move the lever along its axis and along the axis of the bolt. If the lever moves freely, without effort, it means that the silent block of the lever is badly worn or damaged and needs to be replaced. Ruptures, cracking and swelling of the rubber bushing of the silent block are unacceptable. Checking the condition of the silent blocks...

... and the back ends of stretch marks. Tearing, cracking and swelling of rubber silent blocks are unacceptable.

Inspecting the anti-roll bar cushions...

...and rubber bushings for stabilizer struts. If ruptures, cracks or severe deformation are detected on the rubber pads and bushings, they must be replaced. Lifting the rear wheels one by one, we check the condition of the rear wheel hub bearings. The wheel should rotate evenly by hand, without jamming or knocking. To check the condition of the silent block of the rear suspension beam arm...

...we insert the mounting blade between the body bracket and the lever head and try to move the lever in different directions. If the lever moves freely, without effort, it means that the silent block of the lever is badly worn or damaged and needs to be replaced.

We check the condition of the springs, telescopic struts and shock absorbers of the front and rear suspensions. The suspension springs must not be damaged. Tearing, cracking and severe deformation of rubber bushings, cushions and compression buffers of shock absorbers are unacceptable. Liquid leakage from shock absorbers is not allowed. A slight “fogging” of the shock absorber in its upper part, while maintaining the characteristics, is not a malfunction. If the rubber element of the upper support of the front suspension telescopic strut settles or is destroyed, the support must be replaced.

We check the condition of the hinges and the protective cover of the gear shift rod and jet rod. Alternately rotating and turning the front wheels (with the front of the car hanging out)…

...we inspect the protective covers of the outer...

...and internal hinges of the front wheel drives, check the reliability of their fastening with clamps. Covers that are cracked, torn or have lost elasticity must be replaced. We check that there is no oil leakage from the gearbox through the seals of the internal drive joints. If there is a leak, replace the seals.

Replacing a ball joint on a Lada Priora

Checking and replacing the ball joint of the Lada Priora

Before changing the ball joint on a Priora, you should worry about safety: apply the handbrake, securing the rear of the car and preventing a rollback. Additionally, you can put anti-roll bars or bricks. Before installing a new spare part, check it - if the boot is at least half empty, it needs to be filled with lubricant, otherwise the life of the part will be significantly reduced. For these purposes, lubricants for CV joints, graphite lubricants or lithol are suitable.

After this, you can get to work and start changing the spare part:

We jack up the front of the car, put a support on it for safety - you can’t rely only on a jack for any job;
We unscrew the bolts with a gas wrench and smoothly remove the wheel;
Inside, lower the two fastening bolts on the ball joint and remove the ball pin nut;
Use a special puller to press out the finger. Of course, it will work without a puller, but you will have to use force;
We free the structure from the two mounting bolts of the support. Now you can remove the part with a pry bar;
Install a new part in place of the old one. Reassemble the suspension.

It is highly advisable to go through the wheel alignment again: this is not necessary, but incorrect installation will force the driver to again encounter symptoms of malfunctions. Even if the part is lubricated and in perfect condition, any inaccuracy during installation will disrupt all wheel alignment settings. In addition, you should not risk your safety: driving somewhere in a faulty car is not the best idea.

How to remove a ball joint without a VAZ 2107 puller

Now I offer you a step-by-step summary of how to replace ball bearings on a VAZ 2107, with a detailed description of the process, supported by informative photographs. Ball bearing replacement for professionals was designed to be automatic and has changed only slightly in the long term thanks to new tools and capabilities.

In my case, replacing the ball joint from a VAZ 2107 is done on an inspection pit or a lift. Firstly, at least smooth out any security work If you are going to work on an inspection pit. Install the wheel chocks, apply the handbrake and engage second gear. Only the jack is strictly prohibited from being used without the above safety measures.

Metal brush;
Liquid WD-40;
Key for 22 and 7;
Rod for ball bearings;
Ball joint lubricant;
Honey syringe (without needle);
Adjustable wrench.

1. First, women appreciate, you need to remove the wheel.

4.5. Then use a wire brush to clean the ball joints.

3. Treat our customer with the connections you unscrew (as shown in the photo) using WD-40 thread penetrating fluid in a different way.

4. Turn the wrench to 22 and unscrew the nuts of the upper and one of the ball bearings by about one and a half to two turns.

5. Now install the special ball bearing puller.

6. You come out at once to pull out two ball bearings at once: first shoots from the top and then from the bottom. If for some reason the ball does not fit and remains in the zone, then, of course, using an iron and a hammer, of course, help it get out. Impacts must be applied to the projection on the handlebar.

Replace the ball bearing VAZ 2101 without a puller

How to replace a Lada Priora?

In this case, the role of a puller can be performed by a hammer and a reinforcement rod. To remove a worn or broken ball joint, you will need:

The car is raised using a jack.
The front wheel is removed.
The two ball mounting bolts are unscrewed and the fastening nut is unscrewed (wrench 17 and 19).

The reinforcing rod is inserted between the lever and the support body, and then pulled down.

The pin must be hit from bottom to top in different directions so that the cone of the ball pin pops out of the lever.
Once the cone is out, the support turns away from the steering knuckle.
To prevent the ball from being pressed against the fist by means of a lever, the hub is supported, or the wheel is placed and the jack is lowered.
Next, the ball joint, which is attached to the lever and knuckle, is replaced.

Video instruction.

Design

Structurally, the ball joint is not complicated. There is a housing that is either bolted to the suspension arms, or is part of the design of the arm itself. A finger is placed inside this body.

The part of the pin protruding beyond the body has a conical shape, and a thread is cut at the end to secure the pin in the hub.

Inside the body, the finger has a spherical or mushroom-shaped shape.

Between the body and the latter there are plastic bushings that act as sliding bearings.

A boot placed on the body protects the ball from dust getting inside.

Thanks to this design, the finger can not only rotate around an axis, but also change its angle relative to the body. This allows the wheel to turn.

Article number and price for the original ball joint

The original ball joint of the Lada Priora car has article number 21082904185. The price for the product varies from 150 to 420 rubles. The quality of auto parts varies from batch to batch.

Ball joint for Priora

When purchasing an original product, special attention should be paid to the presence of lubricant under the boot. In some cases it is completely absent. Such a ball can last no more than a couple of thousand kilometers.

Article number and cost of ball joint analogues

There is a constant debate among car owners about which ball joints are best to install. Some drivers believe that original parts are optimal in terms of price to reliability ratio. Other owners claim that the instability of the quality of their original balls completely eliminates the possibility of purchasing them. They advise buying analogues from third-party manufacturers, especially since the cost of non-original components is quite attractive. According to driver reviews, below is a list of pole brands that they recommend as an alternative to the original.

Table - Good analogues of the Lada Priora ball joint.

Manufacturer	vendor code	Approximate cost, ruble
Delphi	TC583	340-400
Denckermann	D110112	210-250
Teknorot	L303	230-280
Lemforder	1545602	420-500
TRW	JBJ156	445-490

Diagnostics of the ball joint condition

Signs that you need to diagnose a ball joint malfunction are:

the intersection of small holes and bumps is accompanied by distinct extraneous sounds from the front suspension;
decrease in vehicle controllability when entering a turn;
turning the steering wheel becomes more difficult and is accompanied by a creaking or grinding sound;
it feels like the wheels are blurring on the asphalt, which is why the car doesn’t hold the road well;
driving over uneven road surfaces is accompanied by poor vehicle stability;
on the tires it is clearly noticeable that the rubber is being “eaten up”;
cornering at speeds over 30 km/h is accompanied by a knocking sound coming from the wheel arches.

One way to monitor the condition of the ball joint is as follows:

Jack up the front of the Priora.
Hold the wheel firmly with your hands at the top and bottom points.
Shake the wheel rim. If play is noticeable, the ball joint most likely needs to be replaced. It should be borne in mind that the cause of play can also be stabilizer struts or steering ends.

Checking the condition of the ball joint by shaking the wheel
Another method of control can be used if there is an inspection hole, overpass or lift. It is necessary to gain access to the bottom of the Priora. Using a pry bar or other metal rod, you need to check the play in the ball. To do this, insert the assembly between the support and the lever, and then shake it. If the ball is faulty, an easily noticeable play will be observed, which indicates the need to replace it.

During diagnosis, it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anther. The performance of the ball directly depends on the lubrication. If there are cracks, tears or other mechanical damage to the cuff, moisture and abrasive debris get under it. If an unsatisfactory condition of the boot is detected, replacement of the support is mandatory.

If it is impossible to determine the malfunction of the ball or if you have doubts about its failure, it is recommended to contact a service station, where technicians using special equipment will check the condition of the support. For example, diagnostics on a vibration stand allows you to find a defective unit with 99% confidence.

Required tools and materials for replacement

To replace ball joints on a Priora with your own hands, you will need the tools from the list below.

Table - Tools and materials required to replace the ball joint.

Name	Note
Jack	To lift the car
Mount	Can be replaced with a durable rod
Hammer	Medium size
Spanners	“at 17”, “at 19”
Socket head	TORX E12
Vorotok	Preferably with a ratchet
Balloon wrench	For mounting and removing the wheel
Grease	Special for CV joints or graphite
Penetrating lubricant	For example, WD-40
Rags and wire brush	To clean dirt
prop	It is prohibited to carry out repair work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack.

A set of tools needed to replace the ball joint

Replacing a ball joint on a Lada Priora

Replacing the ball joint on a Lada Priora car with your own hands is carried out according to the step-by-step algorithm presented below.

Secure the vehicle with the parking brake.
Place wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
Jack up the vehicle on the side from which repair work is planned.
Remove the wheel.

Jacked Priora with a removed wheel

Loosen the two ball joint mounting bolts.

Location of fasteners

Unscrew the ball stud nut.

Unscrewing the ball pin nut

Press the support out of the lever. This operation can be performed without a puller, but having one will greatly simplify the procedure.

Pressing the ball out of the lever using a puller

Unscrew the two support mounting bolts.
Using a pry bar, remove the ball.

Dismantling process

Removed old ball

Install the new support into the seat. It is recommended to fill the boot with grease first.

Installation of a new ball joint

Reassemble everything in the reverse order of removal.
Checking the toe and camber angles on a stand is not a mandatory procedure when replacing ball joints, but experienced car owners still recommend checking them.

Replacing a ball joint on a Renault Logan.

Owners of this brand of car are recommended to replace not only the ball joint, but also the lower suspension arm at the same time (here, I wrote on this topic). This procedure is performed as a result of wear or damage to the unit. To carry out the operation you need:

Hammer.
Flathead screwdriver.
Socket wrench - size 30.
Dimension key 13.
Open-end wrenches for 16 and 18.
Two pipes of different diameters.
Bar.

Basic steps of the process.

The car is hung up, or its front part is raised using a jack, and the car is placed on supports.
The wheel is removed.
The nuts of the upper and lower bolts, as well as the connecting rod, are removed.
The nut at the stabilizer bar link is unscrewed, then the bolt is pulled out.
The ball bolt is removed.
The finger is pulled out from the rotating mechanism housing.
The bolts of the silent blocks, both front and rear, are removed.
The lower suspension arm is removed.
The old ball joint is removed. To do this, remove the rubber cover and the metal fixing ring from the assembly. At the end, the support is knocked out with a hammer (more details in the video).
The new ball is installed so that its teeth fit into the grooves of the spline.

Reassemble the mechanism in reverse order.

Video instruction.

Additional recommendations for replacing the ball joint

When purchasing original ball joints, it is extremely important to control the amount of lubricant in them. Many car owners complain that the boot is completely empty. The quantity and quality of lubricant directly affects the service life of the unit and its performance characteristics.

Completely dry original ball joint

Filling the boot with lubricant

If an insufficient amount of lubricant or its absence is detected, it is necessary to fill the boot completely. Special means for CV joints are optimally suited for these purposes. In extreme cases, you can use Litol 24 or graphite lubricants. If there is a small amount of substance under the cuff, it is recommended to dispose of it first to prevent mixing.

How to check a ball joint on a Priora

Carefully inspect the support, its boot should be intact, and it itself should be without chips or signs of deformation.

How to identify the source of a knocking noise in a car

First, put the car on the parking brake. After this, you can already lift the side of the car that bothers its owner using a simple tool - a jack. This way the vehicle wheel will rotate freely.

Before carrying out the described manipulations, do not forget to place wheel chocks under the rear wheels. Experts strongly recommend never inspecting or performing work on a car that is secured solely with one jack! If you ignore this simple rule, irreparable disaster can happen.

Next, we take the wheel in the upper and lower parts with both hands, after which we swing it with maximum effort relative to the axis (vertical, of course). Please note that even if a knock is detected, replacing the ball joint is not yet necessary. For example, a similar sound on a Priora may appear due to wear on the wheel hub bearing. Precisely because, in order not to waste precious time and your honestly earned money on replacing an adequately functioning ball joint, it is worth making sure that the bearing is working properly.

Checking the bearing is easy. You need to find an assistant who will press and hold the brake pedal for some time. Your task will only be to repeat the check described above from the very beginning. If after all the manipulations the ominous knock does not disappear, it means that the support on the Priora has completed its allotted time. But if the knocking noise disappears, you will simply need to replace the wheel bearing.

You can finally dispel doubts about the malfunction of ball joints in a simple way. Place your hand on the lever and ball joints. Use your free hand to loosen the wheel. You will hear and feel the movement of suspension parts.

Signs of a bad ball joint

When driving over small potholes and bumps, a distinct knocking sound is heard in the suspension.
When turning, you may hear a grinding or squeaking sound, and the steering wheel may also be harder to turn.
The car holds the road poorly, the wheels seem to blur on the asphalt.
If you notice that there is “rubber”, one of the reasons may be the failure of the ball joints.

Diagnostics

How to remove a ball joint without a puller? This question is asked by people who are faced with replacing a ball joint. Especially in cases of unexpected breakdown. To prevent this from becoming an unpleasant surprise for you, you need to know how to correctly diagnose a breakdown. The first sign of a malfunction is a knocking sound in the suspension when driving over uneven roads. But here you need to take into account that in extreme cold the lubricant can freeze. In this case, knocking noises may be observed when starting to move.

Don't panic, this is completely normal. Also, with severe wear, the car may wander along the road, and increased tire wear is observed.

Do not forget that it is not only ball joints that can knock in the suspension. Therefore, be sure to carefully inspect the suspension. The easiest way to diagnose is to check the play. To do this, you need to jack up the car. After that, they try to shake the wheel; if there is play, the ball must be replaced. At the same time, we determine which support has failed. This is true for machines with two supports on each side. In some models, it is possible to measure the level of wear of the hinge through a hole in the lower part of the support.

Which ball joint to choose for Lada Priora

Today, a fairly large selection of balls is offered, from Chinese to conveyor and even reinforced ones. The choice is up to the buyer.

BZAK BA08-2904192-01 from 250 rub. piece
TRACK BJ70-107, 2108-2904192 from 300 RUR
LADA IMAGE 2110-2904192-82 from 400 RUR
AMT-Miass AM08-2904192 from 220 rub.
BELMAG BM10-2904192-01 reinforced with fastening (conveyor) from 500 rub.
VAZINTERSERVICE /OAT/ VIS08-2904185-10 sunset – from 350 rub.
ASOMI, Tolyatti A110.2904.193 Comfort PRO from 500 rub.

Detailed manual for replacing ball joints

We will need 17 and 19 mm wrenches, preferably socket wrenches so as not to tear off the nuts, WD40, a ball joint remover, and a hammer.

So, jack up the car, put stops under the rear wheels and remove the wheel.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the ball joint nut and a 17mm wrench to unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the lever.

Now we need a ball joint remover, it can be of several types, the principle is the same - remove the ball joint from the lever.

Now install the new ball in the reverse order. You will have to tinker with the installation when screwing the ball to the lever.

We advise you not to install cheap balls of questionable quality, as they will affect the performance of the suspension and handling in general. A good option for ball conveyor BELMAG or TRACK.

Layout of front suspension parts

1 — anti-roll bar; 2 — rubber-metal joint of the transverse arm; 3 — shock absorber strut; 4 - stretching; 5 — extension bracket; 6 — nut for fastening the extension to the bracket; 7 — ball support of the shock absorber strut; 8 — joint of the anti-roll bar; 9 — wishbone; 10 — bracket for securing the stabilizer bar.

Question answer

Is it possible to restore the support?

If the performance of the ball was restored using the above method, it is worth considering that it will not be possible to extend it for a long time. In cases where there is a high degree of wear, adding lubricant will not change the situation. A replacement part will be required.

The condition of most domestic roads means that car suspensions cannot last for a long time, as a result of which regular and frequent replacement of its elements is required. As for the ball joint, removing it without a puller is not a big problem. This process requires a minimal set of auxiliary tools. At the same time, the absence of a professional tool will not have a negative impact on the parts of the mechanism.

How to check a ball joint?

The ball is very easy to check. It is enough to get to the part and check it for play. At the slightest play it should be replaced. You can even try to shake the ball with your hand, and then everything will become clear. It is best to replace in pairs, since taking everything apart and then reassembling it twice in a short period of time is a dubious pleasure.

Signs of a faulty mechanism are as follows:

Generally speaking, the car will immediately signal if the ball joint needs to be replaced urgently. In some cases, work has to be done every 30 thousand kilometers; much depends on the quality of the road surface.

How to choose spare parts?

You can use parts designed for installation on all front-wheel drive models of the ninth and tenth VAZ families. Here are the requirements for parts and their features:

On new supports the pin should be made of hardened steel. The color of the metal is gray, scale may be present. Be sure to make sure there is no paint on it. The thread of these products is rolled.
The body is made of two halves. Please note that the welding seam is visible only on one side.
When scrolling, you need to apply a lot of effort. Make sure there is no snacking. This is the first sign that the part is of low quality. It is impossible to manually scroll on new products, so you need to use a crank. This indicates that the product is of good quality.
It is best if the ball joint comes with a boot and a nut. If it turns out that these components are missing, it is better to choose another option.
There are a lot of manufacturers of these elements, but, as a rule, there are three on sale - “Trek”, “BelMag” and “Trial-Lux”.

Which ball joints are better for the VAZ-2110 is up to you to decide. But if you have to choose from the above trinity, then they are approximately the same in quality.

Sources

https://RetroTruck.ru/obsluzhivanie-avto/zamena-sharovoj-na-priore-svoimi-rukami.html
https://gil-service.ru/ts/sharovyj-na-prioru.html
https://o-ladagranta.ru/kak-snjat-sharovuju-na-priore-bez-semnika/
https://zapchasti.expert/proizvoditeli/sharovaya-opora-na-lada-priora.html
https://remontautomobilya.ru/proverka-i-zamena-sharovoj-opory-lada-priora.html
https://prometey96.ru/tyuning/sharovaya-opora-priora.html

How to check the front suspension

Checking the front suspension should be carried out in the engine compartment and from below the car, mounted on an inspection ditch or supports (with the front wheels hanging out).

The condition of the protective covers of the suspension ball joints (they should not be mechanically damaged) should be checked during each maintenance and repair of the vehicle.

Check the condition of the rubber-to-metal joints, rubber cushions, suspension ball joints and the condition of the upper suspension strut mounts.

Rubber-metal hinges and rubber cushions must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided bulging of rubber, as well as when their end surfaces are trimmed.

Suspensions on rubber parts are not allowed:

signs of rubber aging;
mechanical damage.

Pay special attention to mechanical damage (deformations, cracks, traces of contact with road obstacles, etc.) of suspension elements, especially levers.

1. Check the tightness of the shock absorber rod mounting nut.

2. Check the tightness of the nuts securing the upper strut support to the body. Similarly, check the fastenings of the rod and the upper support of the second rack.

3. Check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints. If the boots are damaged, replace the ball joints.

4. Check the ball joints for play. To do this, measure the distance H (see Fig. 7.1) between the transverse arm 17 and the brake disc 21. Insert the mounting blade A (see photo) between the steering knuckle and the suspension arm and, leaning on the lever, try to swing the steering knuckle. If this distance changes by more than 0.8 mm when the suspension is rocked, replace the ball joint.

5. If the ball joints are in good condition, rock the wheels in a vertical plane and make sure there is no play in the hub bearings. The maximum permissible axial clearance is no more than 0.015 mm. If the gap is greater than the specified value, replace the bearings.