Lada Priora generator connection diagram

For all owners of the domestic passenger car Lada Priora, as well as for service auto electricians who repair cars, we offer high-quality color electrical diagrams for your reference, indicating all fuses, relays, fans and other modules. The Lada Priora has a 1.6 liter 16 valve engine, an anti-lock brake system (ABS), and air conditioning. The material is intended for electrical equipment specialists and employees of enterprises involved in the maintenance and repair of automobiles, and can be used in training service station personnel. Electrical connection diagrams for LADA PRIORA E-gas (ME17.9.7 controller) can be downloaded in this archive.

Which generator should you choose?

Before we get to the story about which VAZ 2114 generator is better, it’s worth saying - why shouldn’t you buy a battery native to the 14th model?
The fact is that it is designed for a fairly low current - only 80 A. Considering that while the car is running, the generator has to not only charge the battery, but also power electronic devices, this current is simply not enough to fully charge the battery ( Here we should also add, albeit small, current losses in the circuit). That is why it is advisable to install a more powerful generator.

So, what devices can be installed on the VAZ 2114?

Firstly, without any modifications you can install 37.3701 from the 15th model. It is completely interchangeable with the original 14th generator, but the problem is that its amperage is even less - only 55 A. Therefore, it should be installed only as a last resort.

New generator VAZ 2114

The second acceptable option is a generator from Priora or Kalina - it creates a current of 115 A, which is enough to charge the battery and operate all on-board electronics. True, you will have to replace the device pulley with a more suitable one.

The third option is a generator from PRAMO, which has an amperage of 120 A. This is the most optimal option of all for 2114.

Generator from PRAMO

And finally, generators from Eldix with a current of 80 or 115 A - they are completely identical to the 14th model generator in terms of external dimensions and pulley parameters. The only thing worth remembering is that they are practically not repairable. Even if there is a minor breakdown, the entire device will have to be replaced.

Windscreen wipers

As for the windshield wipers of the Lada Priora, the electrical circuit in this case has a special programmable control unit. The circuit contains fuses to protect against overvoltages and short circuits.

The windshield wipers are turned on with a switch located near the steering wheel. The switch has eight positions, four of which are used to control the purifier. One position on the switch turns on the glass washer, the other two positions control the rear wiper. Another position is responsible for the disabled state of the windshield wiper.

Checking with a tester

The easiest way to check the generator voltage regulator with a multimeter on the Priora is to measure the voltage on the battery.

To do this, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

set the multimeter to measure DC voltage with a limit of at least 20 V;
start the engine;
at idle speed (1000-1500 rpm) the tester should show 13.2-14 V;
when the number of revolutions increases to 2000-2500, the voltage should increase to 14.2 V;
at maximum speed the tester should show no more than 14.5 V.

If the voltage differs greatly from the specified one, drops below 13.5 V or rises above 14.5 V, we can conclude that the unit is faulty.

We assemble a simple circuit: connect the light bulb to the brushes, the negative terminal of the power source to the ground terminal, the positive terminal to terminal “B” of the regulator. When 12.7 V is supplied, the light should light. When raised to 14-14.5 V, the control should go out. If the light goes out earlier or does not go out at all, the control device is faulty.

Replacing the voltage regulator on a Priora

How to repair a voltage regulator? On modern cars - no way. It is simply irreparable and a failed part is simply replaced with a new one. Theoretically, even an electronic non-contact voltage regulator can be repaired - but few people do this - there is no point.

So, how is the voltage regulator replaced on a Priora? First, you should turn off the ignition and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for reasons of electrical equipment and your safety.

Be careful not to mix up the wires going to the voltage regulator of the Priora generator - otherwise you can ruin both the relay-regulator and the generator itself.

On a Lada Priora car, the voltage regulator is installed separately from the generator. To remove the relay-regulator, you need to unscrew the nuts that secure the device to the body. Before this, you need to mark with electrical tape, tape or a marker the relative positions of the wires leading to the contacts of the regulator, and the contacts themselves.

Now you can install a new voltage regulator on the Priora to replace the old one. It is imperative to check the contacts where the relay-regulator is connected to the generator, as well as the tension of the generator belt. That's it, connect the battery, tighten the terminals and check the operation. And, of course, we make sure that on the Lada Priora the on-board voltage does not jump, but is even.

If the relay-regulator is installed in the same housing with the generator, then the algorithm is slightly different. After removing the negative terminal from the battery, disconnect the wires going to the generator (there is no need to remove it itself).

We open the plugs or unscrew the fastenings of the relay-regulator, depending on the design of the unit. We remove the plastic casing of the generator and find the relay regulator. We unscrew the fastening nuts and disconnect the screw fastening to the tire. Let's extract it. All that remains is to install a new relay-regulator - we perform this procedure in the reverse order of removal.

To check the operation of a new device, in this case, you need to fully charge the battery, connect it as expected, and start the engine at about 2500-3000 rpm. Using a universal tester or a special voltmeter, you need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals.

If you replaced the relay regulator correctly, the number on the display will be equal to that indicated in the vehicle’s operating instructions. If not, the relay regulator should be replaced again. It is forbidden to check the serviceability of the relay-regulator by short-circuiting its terminals - this can lead to the “death” of the rectifier unit.

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2101 generator

Structurally, generator 2101 consists of the following main elements:

The rotor is a moving part that rotates from the engine crankshaft. Has an excitation winding.
The stator is the stationary part of the generator and also has a winding.
Front and rear covers , inside of which bearings are installed. They have eyelets for attaching to the internal combustion engine. The back cover contains a capacitor necessary to cut off the alternating current component.
Semiconductor bridge - called a “horseshoe” for its similarity. Three pairs of semiconductor power diodes are mounted on a horseshoe-shaped base.
A pulley on which the VAZ-2101 generator belt is placed. The belt is V-shaped (on modern cars a multi-ribbed belt is used).
The voltage regulator is installed in the engine compartment, away from the generator. But still it must be considered part of the structure.
The brushes are mounted inside the generator and transmit the supply voltage to the field winding (on the rotor).

Regulator replacement

If the diagnostics confirm that the relay is “replaceable,” you can install a working one yourself. For this you will need:

New launch vehicle with brush assembly. Good samples are made in Russia, their price is low and they are highly reliable;
Set of tools: keys for 13 and 8, a head with a knob for 10, a slotted screwdriver.

“Priors” 2012-2013 and younger are often equipped with a new type of multifunctional voltage regulator, for example, 844.3702, with a smooth response function to the connected load. On older machines there are components of the old one, but in their case it is also possible to install the updated one. The specific type depends on the model of the generator on board, its power (115A, 90A, etc.), the version of the car (sedan, hatchback) and year of manufacture.

Progress

There are two replacement methods:

with removal of the generator;
without removal.

The first method simplifies the process, but on Priors with air conditioning, access to the required areas can be difficult. Actions after dismantling the device:

Remove the plastic cover of the Lada Priora regulator.
Remove the power plug.
Unscrew a couple of fasteners.
Use a wrench to remove the retaining bolt.
Remove the old LV, install the new one, connect and reassemble everything in reverse order.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=bIYBtxKdhgI%3F

There is a way without removal - you can get to the block through the headlight or bypass the air filter by sliding it by hand. There are many video reviews dedicated to this operation on YouTube and thematic forums.

Action of auxiliary elements

The list of equipment included in the auxiliary electrical circuit of the VAZ is wider than that discussed above. This:

light and sound elements, lamps, signal, etc.;
glass cleaning and washing system;
interior ventilation unit;
engine cooling fan;
rear window heating unit;
dashboard;
electric booster;
electric mirror drives;
anti-theft system.

What signs will indicate that the generator brushes are faulty?

The following external signs will help you understand that the generator brushes have become unusable on a Priora with power steering or air conditioning:

length of the element being inspected;
if upon inspection it is discovered that the length of the brushes is less than 5 mm, they must be replaced;
Replacement will also be required if the appearance of the brushes indicates uneven wear, that is, one element is heavily worn out, and the second is brand new. Uneven wear of these elements will certainly negatively affect the operation of the generator, so experts recommend replacing them without fail.

Once high-quality brushes have been purchased (it is advisable to give your choice to well-known manufacturers), you can begin assembling the entire element and installing the generator in its original place. But as was said earlier, such a process can be carried out without removing it, which, of course, must be decided by each car owner independently. These operations, as many understand, are performed in reverse order, and after the final stage it is necessary to check whether the entire generator is working efficiently.

If the replacement of worn brushes is carried out correctly, and the problem with charging the battery was precisely the wear of these components, then the car owner will solve this issue, and without the help of service station employees, which will save a lot of his own money. The replacement process itself is quite simple, but if difficulties arise during the work, you can watch the training video on the Internet resource at any time, which is provided by professionals, choosing the most suitable time for viewing.

Be careful not to mix up the wires going to the voltage regulator of the Priora generator - otherwise you can ruin both the relay-regulator and the generator itself.

Which TRN is suitable for LADA

Generator, article number	Automobile	TRG, article number
26.3701, 37.3701, 371.3701, 372.3701	VAZ-2107, -2108, -2109, -2110, OKA	67.3702-01
3002.3771, 332.3771, 3202.3771, 3212.3771, 4302.3771, 94.3701, 9402.3701, 9422.3701, 3740.3771-38, 3743.3771-61, 3747.3771- 93, eld-a-21214, LG01214	VAZ, GAZ	67.3702-02
4052.3701, 409.3701, PRAMO “ISKRA” 5102.3771, -10, 5112.3771, -10, 5122.3771, -10, -30, 5142.3771, AAK 5727	VAZ, GAZ, UAZ with generators PRAMO “ISKRA” 5102.3771, 5122.3771	67.3702-04
G222	VAZ-2104, -2105, -2107	67.3702-09
26.3701, 37.3701, 371.3701, 372.3701	VAZ-2107, -2108, -2109, -2110, OKA	67.3702-11
3002.3771, 332.3771, 3202.3771, 3212.3771, 4302.3771, 94.3701, 9402.3701, 9422.3701, 3740.3771-38, 3743.3771-61, 3747.3771- 93, eld-a-21214, LG01214	VAZ, GAZ	67.3702-12
generators with an additional three diodes, the excitation winding of which is connected to the positive circuit	673.3702

Signs of faulty generator brushes

The following signs indicate node failure:

weak headlights in the dark, their frequent blinking;
interruptions in the supply of current to the on-board network;
unexpected shutdowns of the radio and other consumers;
poor charging of the car battery, electrical work begins to quickly drain it;
indication of problems with the generator on the panel.

These symptoms do not always indicate a malfunction of the voltage regulator itself. For reliable diagnostics, it is worth analyzing the serviceability of other components: test the circuits with a multimeter, check the fuses, read the errors recorded in the ECU memory.

Sometimes the block does not need replacement, but simply cleaning or turning so that the brushes can move freely again. But if the inspection reveals wear to less than 5 mm in length, it is strictly necessary to change them. The same applies to uneven wear.

Location and reasons for replacing the generator

In a Priora, the generator is located under the hood next to the cushion that holds the engine.

When a generator breaks down, an important fact must be taken into account. This device is not easy to repair given the complexity of the design. If the mechanism is assembled incorrectly, there is a risk of short circuiting and burning of the diode bridge, and, as a result, damage to the battery.

It is better to correct the situation by installing a new generator on the car. Replacement is not as difficult as a car service center might tell you. The whole process may take no more than an hour.

As noted, a lit battery light while the engine is running indicates various types of malfunctions. To find out for sure whether this is due to damage in the generator, you need to use a voltmeter.

When the engine is running, the electrical measuring device shows the voltage entering the battery. If the indicators on the display increase, it means that current from the generator is supplied to the battery, and it is working correctly. A drop in readings indicates a malfunction.

Sometimes the battery charge lamp does not light up, and electrical appliances work poorly. Therefore, additional signs of damage to the generator are:

extraneous sounds from the right side of the hood;
dim headlights;
The brightness of the optics changes.

Installation and connection instructions

For Lada cars (except Vesta, XRAY)

, photo author:

Remove the generator.

Remove the plastic casing of the generator. To do this, first disconnect the generator excitation wire. Then unscrew the nut from the stud (10mm wrench) and move the power wire to the side. Next, 3 latches on the plastic casing are unfastened.

Remove the standard voltage regulator from the generator. To do this, unscrew two screws ("8" key) and disconnect the wire.

Install a three-level voltage regulator on the generator instead of the standard one.

Output 2 wires for the control module. The module itself should be mounted in conditions of reliable contact with the “ground” and as far as possible from the possibility of moisture ingress. For example, on a hairpin near the right headlight.

For Lada Vesta, XRAY cars (with Valeo TG12C209 generator).

This generator is no different from the previous ones, the only difference is in the voltage regulator. It communicates with the engine ECU via a “lin” interface. The task of this “lin” is to avoid loss of throttle response at power modes. By installing the TRN, we cut off the ability to control the regulator using the ECU!

For this generator there is no ready-made solution in the form of a TRN yet, so the design will have to be modified.

Required:

three-level voltage regulator (article 67.3702-01)
2-pin block 904576 NORD YADA
generator voltage regulator (leave the standard one (if the brushes are live) or ARV1103AD)
wire for powering the regulator (2 meters)

Procedure (author of modification):

Remove the generator (instructions for Lada Vesta/XRAY).

Remove the voltage regulator, open the cover and clean everything under it. Reinstall the cover.

Isolate the negative brush from ground (for example, drill out the negative outlet, place washers). It is necessary to completely eliminate contact between the regulator and the generator.

Solder the female connector to the brushes.

Solder the male connector to the 3-level regulator. Also, connect an additional wire to the positive output, which is needed to power the regulator and rotor.

Connection diagram:

Output “Ш” on the regulator goes to the negative brush.
Output “+” - to the positive brush.

The “+” output needs to be supplied with 12V, which appears when the ignition is turned on:

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The operation of Lada Priora generating devices may occasionally fail.

For what reasons may a generator from Priora not work correctly:

Elements F12 have burned out on the fuse diagram. In this case, the devices on the dashboard will stop working, and the lamp will not light up when the ignition is turned on. Replacing the part will solve the problem.
There has been a break in the power supply circuit of the instrument devices; the symptoms will be similar to those described above. To fix the problem, you need to check the connections, as well as the contacts from the orange wiring.
The ignition switch refuses to function. Regardless of what kind of lock it may be, it needs to be changed.
Souring or wear of the mechanism brushes, oxidation of slip rings. Symptoms of malfunction will be the same. To solve the problem, you need to change the voltage regulator on the Lada Priora, and also clean the contacts. Many priority drivers today use a three-level voltage regulator - three levels allow you to always control the voltage level in the network.
The excitation winding leads have broken. The problem can only be solved by replacing the rotor of the unit.
If the drive belt slips, the battery discharge lamp will indicate this - adjusting the tension will solve the problem.
Another reason why the Priora Lux generator may be faulty is damage to the valves of the rectifier device. The block itself will have to be replaced.
The battery discharge lamp may appear when the diode batteries of the excitation winding are damaged. In this case, the rectifier unit will also have to be changed.
A short circuit or break may occur in the stator winding - it will be necessary to repair the latter or install a new one instead. Also, the stator needs to be changed in case of an interturn short circuit or a short circuit to ground.
The bearing elements have worn out - the car owner will be informed about this by third-party sounds when the generator unit is operating. In the video below you can familiarize yourself with the procedure for repairing a mechanism at home (the author of the video is Repair and Tuning).

Standard generator on Priora - article number and price, where it is

The installation location may vary for different car brands and models. You should look for it in the engine compartment, near the rubber cushion on which the engine is mounted. 90A article 3282.3771, is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Generator for Priora produced by BATE price from 4120 rubles

Characteristics:

Weight 5.5 kg
LxHxW 200x170x200 mm
Rectified current 90 A
Power 0.98 kW
Voltage 14 V 100 A

It has article number 5132.3771 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Generator for Lada Priora with air conditioning manufactured by Pramo price from 4200 rub.

Characteristics:

Maximum rectifier current 100 A
Weight 5.3 kg
Voltage 14 V
Power 233 W/kg
Internal cooling
Stator diameter 125 mm
115 A

It has article number 9402.3701-14 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Article number - 2170-3701010-10 has a KZATE generator for the Lada Priora car, its price starts from 5300 rubles, and Bosch - 2170 3701010 13

Device manufactured by LKD - price from 4400 RUR

Characteristics:

Maximum rectifier current 115 A
Weight 5.2 kg
Nominal voltage 14 V
Power 1610 W
Stator diameter 125 mm
Length 188 mm
115 A

It has article number 9402-14 and is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

120 A Has article number 9402-3701-14P, is a source of energy in the electronic equipment system of 2170-72 Priora cars.

Characteristics:

Maximum rectifier current 120 A
Weight 6 kg
Nominal voltage 14 V

Manufacturer ATE-1 cost from 4000 rub.

The generator tension roller 2170 serves to tension the belt. One of the important tips for beginners: if you unscrew any bolt when changing a part, lubricate it with graphite grease, this will greatly facilitate repairs in the future.

Window lifters

As for the power windows, the electrical circuit on the Priora differs from other models. Control is carried out using a controller. Raising and lowering the windows is done by briefly pressing the button.

In Lada Priora hatchback cars, the electrical circuit has the peculiarity of supplying power directly to the electric window drive. The wire supplies power to the mirror control, heating, and also to the solenoid designed to lock the doors. The control is carried out by the controller.

Generator device

The pulley transmits energy from the motor to the shaft using a belt.

Covers on the housing are needed to accommodate the rotor supports, install the unit on the motor and secure the stator. The back cover is needed for the brush assembly and outputs for powering electrical equipment. The stator produces power through a three-phase winding. The rotor is a steel shaft with two bushings. The terminals of this winding are connected to copper rings. The regulator stabilizes the voltage under various factors:

rotor speed delta;

temperature changes in nature.

The brush assembly is a plastic element with brushes attached to it that interact with the rotor rings. The electric generator also includes six diodes (three in “-” and three in “+” heat sinks).

Connection diagram for the VAZ-2107 generator

1 - battery; 2 - negative diode; 3 - additional diode; 4 - generator; 5 - positive diode; 6 - stator winding; 7 - voltage regulator; 8 — rotor winding; 9 — capacitor for suppressing radio interference; 10 — mounting block; 11 — battery charge indicator lamp in the instrument cluster; 12 - voltmeter; 13 — ignition relay; 14 - ignition switch.

Where is the voltage regulator located on the Priora?

Surely, many prior leaders have encountered such a problem. I'll outline the situation. I was driving late one evening and noticed that when I changed gears the low beam dimmed. Not for long, after a second or two it levels out. I switched to the voltmeter readings on the instrument panel. Everything is in order, 14.2V, I accelerated to 3000 rpm and I observe the picture: when the rpm drops to idle, the voltage drops to 12.4V, the headlights dim, then gradually becomes brighter, the voltage is again 14.2V. After driving like this for a couple of days, reading the Murzilka, I found out what the problem might be. In brushes. My generator is KZATE 115A. I looked at the catalog number of the relay regulator and went to buy it.

Next is replacement. This is where I seized upon grief, tearing my hands bloody and cursing AvtoVAZ... It turned out to be difficult to get to the generator, and it was also -14 outside, it was cold. Well, okay, let's get started, then. I removed the terminal from the battery, removed the air cooler housing, unscrewed the fastening of the air conditioner tube, this was enough, as it seemed to me, to stick my hand in there.

The voltage regulator and generator brush holder on the Lada Priora are removed for replacement in case of failure. Repair work can be carried out without dismantling the generator, but for clarity, the process will be shown with it removed. Prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:

First of all, you need to de-energize the car by disconnecting the minus terminal from the battery.

Disconnect the connector with the wire from the D+ terminal of the generator.
Then remove the rubber protective cover from the contact pin.

Having removed the cover, unscrew the nut and remove the wire terminal from the stud.
Now unscrew the nut securing the generator excitation circuit terminal.

Remove the excitation circuit terminal from the stud.
Unscrew the nuts securing the protective cover of the generator.

We remove the casing.
Unscrew the three nuts securing the voltage regulator housing.

Now unscrew the screw securing terminal D+ to the regulator bus.
And remove the rectifier unit from the generator.

Before installing a new one, check the ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder, as well as the amount of their protrusion, which should be at least 5 mm.

Welcome! Voltage regulator - it is installed on the generator and is directly connected to it, thanks to it, the entire current that the generator gives out changes and flows more evenly, for example, the more you turn the engine of a car (increase the speed, that is), the generator will work stronger and much more give out current, all this happens because the generator is connected to the engine (namely, it is connected to the crankshaft), but the voltage in the on-board network will also change from this (The more current the generator gives, the stronger this current increases in the entire on-board network car), therefore, when the speed increases, the light will constantly burn stronger, and when it decreases, it will dim because the current strength will decrease, so no matter what happened, a voltage regulator was invented, thanks to which the current strength in the on-board network always remains the same, but it changes when you turn on additional devices that need more current, that is, for example, you turn on the high beam headlights of a car and the current supply increases through the regulator so that there is enough power for these headlights, in addition, the current supply flowing through The regulator is constant and does not jump higher or lower, so the headlights work in the same mode and do not shine either stronger or weaker.

Note! In order to change or check the voltage regulator, you will need: Two different types of screwdrivers, as well as two wrenches that will be “12” in size, and you will also need a DC voltmeter thanks to which you can clearly determine what voltage you have in your on-board network and whether it is jumping, and among electrical appliances, a megohm meter is also useful, thanks to which you can check the regulator’s capacitor for serviceability, thanks to which the current strength remains constant when supplied to the on-board network!

Where is the voltage regulator located? It is located on the generator itself, as was already said a little earlier, a plus wire and a wire block are also suitable for it, so that the regulator does not become dirty; for this purpose it is also closed with a plastic cover, in more detail the pin that comes out of the regulator you can look at photo which is located below, in this photo you can just see the same plastic cover that closes the regulator, and in the other photo (Small) you can see that the cover has already been removed and only one pin sticks out, which comes from the regulator (This pin is on both indicated by a red arrow in the pictures).

When should you change the voltage regulator?

Generator - removal, installation, repair and maintenance VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora

Design features of the VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora generator

On Lada Priora - VAZ 2170 2171 2172 cars, an alternating current generator model 5102.3771 is installed, three-phase, with a built-in rectifier unit and an electronic voltage regulator, right rotation (when viewed from the drive side).
Mod generator 5102.3771 has a number of advantages over earlier domestically produced analogues. The most significant difference is the increased current output of the generator at low engine speeds (the increase is 4–6 A when the generator rotor speed is reduced by 300 rpm), which is especially necessary when operating the car in winter, and will also allow the future use of an automatic transmission in the car design . Technical characteristics of the generator 5102.3771 Maximum output current at 14 V, A…..80 Adjustable voltage, V…..13.8–14.4 Gear ratio engine - generator…..1:2.4 Power density, W…. .205 Weight, kg…..5.4

Rice. 1. Generator connection diagram: 1 – battery; 2 – generator; 3 – main fuse block; 4 – ignition switch (lock); 5 – mounting block; 6 – warning lamp of battery discharge The generator connection diagram is shown in Fig. 1. The voltage to excite the generator when the ignition is turned on is supplied to the “D+” terminal of the regulator through the 6th battery discharge warning lamp located in the instrument cluster. After starting the engine, the excitation winding is powered by three additional diodes installed on the generator rectifier block. The “W” output of the generator is not used on Lada Priora cars. The operation of the generator is monitored using a low battery warning lamp located in the instrument cluster. When the ignition is turned on, the lamp should be on; after starting the engine, it should go out if the generator is working. If the lamp burns brightly or burns at full intensity, it indicates a malfunction. Rice. 2. Generator 5102.3771: 1 – pulley; 2 – front bearing; 3 – front cover; 4 – stator; 5 – coupling bolt; 6 – back cover; 7 – casing; 8 – rectifier block; 9 – output “D+” of the generator; 10 – output “B+” of the generator; 11 – rotor contact rings; 12 – voltage regulator with brush holder; 13 – rear bearing of the rotor shaft; 14 – rotor Stator 4 (Fig. 2) and covers 3 and 6 are tightened with four screws. The rotor shaft 14 rotates in bearings 2 and 13, which are installed in the covers. Power is supplied to the rotor winding (excitation winding) through brushes and slip rings 11. The three-phase alternating current induced in the stator winding is converted into direct current by the rectifier unit 8 attached to the cover 6. The electronic voltage regulator 12 is combined into one unit with a brush holder and is also attached to cover 6.

Possible generator malfunctions, their causes and solutions VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora.

Causes of malfunction of the VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora generator	Remedy	External manifestations of failure of the generator VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora
Fuse F12 in the mounting block has blown	Replace fuse	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on, control devices do not work
Open circuit in the power supply circuit of the instrument cluster: no voltage is supplied from the mounting block to the instruments	Check the connections, contacts and orange wire from the mounting block to the devices	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on, control devices do not work
Open circuit in the power supply circuit of the instrument cluster: no voltage is supplied from the ignition switch to the mounting block	Check the connections, contacts and blue wire with a black stripe from the ignition switch to the mounting block	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on, control devices do not work
The ignition switch does not work	replace ignition switch	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on, control devices do not work
instrument cluster malfunction	replace instrument cluster	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running, the control devices do not work, the battery is discharged.
Open circuit between instrument cluster and instrument cluster terminal D+	Check the connections, brown wire contacts with a white stripe from the generator to the instrument panel	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running, the control devices do not work, the battery is discharged.
Wear or souring of generator brushes, oxidation of generator slip rings	Replace the generator voltage regulator, wipe the contacts of the generator slip rings	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running, the control devices do not work, the battery is discharged.
Damaged. Generator voltage regulator is faulty	Replace generator voltage regulator	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running, the control devices do not work, the battery is discharged.
The leads of the excitation winding came off from the slip rings and were unsoldered.	Replace the generator rotor	The warning light does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running, the control devices do not work, the battery is discharged.
Alternator drive belt slipping	Adjust the tension of the generator belt	The warning light is bright or dim, the battery is low
Damaged. Generator voltage regulator is faulty	Replace generator voltage regulator	The warning light is bright or dim, the battery is low
The rectifier block valves are damaged	Replace the generator rectifier unit	The warning light is bright or dim, the battery is low
Damaged additional power diodes of the excitation winding	Replace the generator rectifier unit	The warning light is bright or dim, the battery is low
The leads of the excitation winding came off from the slip rings and were unsoldered.	Replace the generator rotor	The warning light is bright or dim, the battery is low
Open circuit or short circuit in the stator winding	Replace generator stator	The warning light is bright or dim, the battery is low
Damaged. Generator voltage regulator is faulty	Replace generator voltage regulator	The warning light comes on when the engine is running and the battery is being recharged.
Generator bearings are damaged	Replace the rear bearing or replace the front bearing along with the front generator cover	Increased, extraneous noise in the generator
Inter-turn short circuit or short circuit to ground in the stator winding	Replace generator stator	Increased, extraneous noise in the generator
Short circuit in one of the generator ventilators	Replace the generator rectifier unit	Increased, extraneous noise in the generator

Removal and installation of generator VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora

You will need a 13mm socket wrench. 1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery. 2. Remove the generator drive belt (see “Replacing the generator drive belt”). 3. Disconnect the block with the wire from the “D+” terminal of the generator.

4. Remove the rubber boot and unscrew the nut.5. Disconnect the wires from the terminal stud.

6. Unscrew the nut of the bolt from the lower mounting of the generator to the bracket.

7. Remove the nut together with the spacer.

8. Remove the bolt from the lower mounting of the generator.

9. Finally unscrew the nut securing the generator to the upper bracket.

10. Having completely unscrewed the adjusting bolt 1, remove the tension bar 2

11. Remove the generator from the vehicle.

12. Install the generator in the reverse order of removal. 13. Adjust the belt tension (see “Checking the generator drive belt tension”). Tighten the generator tension bar mounting nut to a torque of 20 N·m (2 kgf·m).

Checking and replacing the voltage regulator with brush holder VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora

The generator 5102.3771 is equipped with a voltage regulator mod. 5102.3771.060. The operation of the voltage regulator is to continuously automatically change the generator excitation current so that the generator voltage is maintained within specified limits when the rotation speed and load current of the generator changes. You will need: flat blade screwdrivers, 8mm wrench, tester. 1. Remove the rubber boot and connect the “positive” wire of the battery, and connect the “negative” wire to the “minus” terminal respectively.

2. Start the engine and turn on the car's headlights. 3. After 15 minutes of engine operation at medium speed, measure the voltage; it should be in the range of 13.8–14.4 V. If undercharging is observed (the voltage does not fall within the specified limits). 4. Check the voltage directly at the power terminal (pin) of the generator relative to its body (“ground”).

If the voltage at the alternator pin is correct, check the voltage at the power terminal. If the tester shows different voltage values, then strip the power terminal contact and tighten the nut securely, then repeat the measurements. After preventive measures, the difference in voltage values between the stud and the terminal should decrease to zero. If the tester readings are the same, i.e. is normal, then in the same way as described above, check the voltage at fuses F4 and F6, their contact blocks and at the place where the battery plus harness is attached to the common positive bus of the main fuse block. If the voltage on the generator stud is not normal, check the tension of the generator drive belt and, if necessary, adjust the tension (see “Checking the tension of the generator drive belt”). If the voltage is again abnormal, replace the voltage regulator.

Replacing the voltage regulator on the Lada Priora generator

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery. 2. Disconnect the block with the wire from the “D+” terminal of the generator. 3. Remove the rubber boot and unscrew the nut. 4. Disconnect the wires from the terminal stud. Note The work of replacing the voltage regulator is performed on a generator installed on the car. For clarity, the generator has been removed from the vehicle. 9. Unscrew the nut securing the generator excitation circuit terminal. 10. Remove the terminal. 11. Unscrew the three nuts securing the plastic casing of the generator. 12. Remove the casing.

13. Unscrew the two nuts securing the voltage regulator housing. 14. Screw securing the regulator terminal to the “D+” bus of the rectifier unit. 15. Remove the voltage regulator from the generator. This is what the voltage regulator with brush holder assembly removed from the car looks like. 16. Check the ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder and their protrusion. If the brushes protrude less than 5 mm from the brush holder, replace the voltage regulator with brush holder. 17. Install the voltage regulator in the reverse order of removal.

Repair of generator VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Priora

You will need: flat and Phillips blade screwdrivers, 8" and 10" wrenches, 8" and "24" socket wrenches, hammer, tester. 1. Remove the generator from the car (see “Removing and installing the generator”). 2. Remove the voltage regulator (see “Checking and replacing the voltage regulator with brush holder”). 3. Unscrew the three nuts securing the rectifier unit and the two nuts securing the remote bushings of the “plus” terminal and the generator excitation terminal. 4. Then remove the bushings. 5. Unsolder the six terminals of the stator winding... 6. ...and remove the rectifier unit from the generator. Note This is what the removed rectifier unit looks like from the side of the protective casing... ...and this from the stator side. This is what a capacitor looks like, which is non-removable. 7. Check the “negative” diodes by connecting the “positive” (red) probe of the tester to the “negative” plate (bus) of the rectifier unit, and the “negative” (black) probe alternately to the three contact terminals of the diodes in three mounting places (one at a time) stator windings. If the diodes are working properly, the tester will show 580–620 Ohms. 8. Connect the “negative” (black) probe of the tester to the “minus” plate of the rectifier unit, and the “positive” (red) probe alternately to the same three contact terminals. If the diodes are working properly, the tester will show an infinitely high resistance. 9. If the tester shows low or close to zero resistance, then the diode is “broken,” if the tester reading tends to infinitely high resistance, regardless of the color of the connected probes, then the diode is “broken.” In both cases, the rectifier unit must be replaced. 10. Check the “positive” diodes in the same way, but only relative to the “positive” plate of the rectifier unit or the “B+” terminal of the generator. 11. Check the stator windings with a tester for the absence of a break (diagram with solid lines) and for the absence of a short circuit to the starter housing (diagram with dotted lines). When taking measurements, make sure that the winding leads do not touch the generator cover. 12. Mark the relative positions of the generator covers... 13. Remove the four coupling bolts. 14. Using a screwdriver, remove the generator cover from the slip ring side. 15. Remove the stator from the cover. 16. Inspect the stator. There should be no traces of the armature touching the stator on its inner surface. If there is wear, the bearings or alternator covers must be replaced. 17. Place the spanner on the nut and through its hole, insert the hex key into the shaft hole. Unscrew the nut with a spanner wrench, holding the shaft from turning. 18. Remove the spring washer and pulley from the rotor shaft. 19. Remove the rotor shaft from the bearing. If necessary, screw the pulley fastening nut onto the rotor shaft and press the rotor shaft out of the bearing through a wooden spacer with light blows of a hammer. 20. Inspect the drive side cover (assembled with the generator bearing). 21. If, when rotating the bearing, you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are lubricant leaks, replace the bearing, and if cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the generator cover. 22. To replace the bearing or cover, remove the four screws securing the bearing thrust washer... 23. ... and remove the washer. 24. Using an aluminum spacer, press the bearing out of the generator cover with light blows of a hammer. 25. Press the new bearing into the cap using a socket of the appropriate diameter. 26. Inspect the slip rings. If they have burrs, marks, scratches, signs of wear from brushes and other defects, the rings must be sanded. If damage to the rings cannot be removed with sandpaper, turn the rings on a lathe, removing a minimum layer of metal, and then sand them. 27. Check the resistance of the rotor winding with a tester by connecting it to the slip rings. If the tester shows infinity, it means there is a break in the rotor winding and needs to be replaced.

28. Check that the rotor winding is not shorted to the housing by connecting the tester leads to any slip ring and the rotor housing. The tester should show infinity.

29. Check the ease of rotation of the bearing on the slip ring side. If, when rotating the bearing, you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are lubricant leaks, the bearing must be replaced. 30. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing off the rotor shaft and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner ring of the bearing. 31. Inspect the generator cover from the slip ring side. If cracks are found, the cover must be replaced. Helpful advice: Replace all parts in specialized workshops or at an authorized dealer, since the cost of spare parts is quite high, and replacing parts is labor-intensive, using professional tools. In addition, in these cases, qualified diagnostics is required. After repairs, the generator must be tested on a diagnostic stand. Such a stand simulates the real operation of a generator with variable loads, while at the same time continuous monitoring of the charging voltage and current is carried out. Based on the results of the inspection, the contractor provides a guarantee both for spare parts purchased and installed by him, and for repair and diagnostic work performed. 32. Assemble the generator in the reverse order of disassembly, orienting the generator covers and stator housing according to the marks made earlier. In addition, you can find useful information on the Lada Priora generator in the article “Applicability of generators on Lada, VAZ cars”

Replacing generator brushes with removing the converter on the Lada Grant (engine 11183, 21116, 11186)

Tools and materials are similar to previous repairs.

The car is placed within the perimeter of the repair area, basic safety measures are taken, and the parking brake is released.
Open the hood and remove the terminals from the battery to avoid a short circuit.
Unscrew the six bolts around the perimeter and remove the engine protection.
Disconnect the wire block from the converter.
Remove the protective cap for securing the power cable.

Unscrew the bolt of the lower mounting of the generator.
Use the mounting tool to move the converter forward towards the radiator and remove the bolt.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
We remove the generator from under the car.

We carry out troubleshooting, inspect the physical condition of adjacent mechanisms and parts. We replace with new ones as necessary.

Replacing the drive belt on a car with air conditioning

The replacement process looks a little different on a car with air conditioning.
VD40 is used to process engine mounts and part bracket bolts.
The right front wheel is removed or turned out.
The generator roller is unscrewed. The belt is moved to the side and the engine mount bolts are unscrewed.
The Lada Priora needs to be jacked up so as to hang the engine.
We replace the old belt with a new one.
We lift the car with a jack, the engine is lowered and you will be able to tighten all the bolts.

Priora generator brushes: how to replace them correctly and do it yourself

If the owner of the Priora notices that the charge from the battery is disappearing, first of all, he needs to check the condition of the generator brushes. Of course, at first the charge decreases insignificantly, but if the problem is not corrected in time, the charge will very soon disappear altogether. Replacing the brushes of the Priora generator, which are clearly worn out, will help correct this problem.

Important! The brush mechanism of the generator on the Priora cannot be repaired. If any breakdown occurs, only a replacement along with the brushes will be required. Since this process is not so complicated, you can do everything yourself

You just need to take into account the recommendations of professionals

Since this process is not so complicated, you can do everything yourself. You just need to take into account the recommendations of professionals.

What tools are needed for work?

Before changing the brushes on the generator, prepare the tools you will need for the job:

flat screwdriver;
wrench – it’s better if it’s an open-end wrench (size 13);
car head with wrench (size 10).

Changing the generator brushes, process sequence

It is quite possible to replace the alternator brushes on a Priora that have worn out without removing it. But, according to experts in their field, the process is simplified if replacing the generator is preceded by removing it from its usual location.

Important! When carrying out any work on the generator (replacement, repair, etc.), be sure to disconnect the battery. https://www.youtube.com/embed/gh7P7zWPOOc. After removing the generator on the Priora, replacement is carried out as follows:

After removing the generator on the Priora, replacement is carried out as follows:

Use a screwdriver to remove the plastic cover, which is designed to protect the device. Having done this, you gain access to the brushes;
disconnect the connecting plug from them;
slowly unscrew both fasteners (they are located along the edges of the elements that are inspected);
Take the above key and unscrew the locking bolt. Do this in the center of the element;
Having unscrewed all the fasteners, remove the brushes, inspect them, assess their condition and replace them with new ones, connect the wires.

What are the signs that indicate that the generator brushes have become unusable?

The following external “signs” will help with this:

if, upon examining this element, you find that its length is less than 5 mm, it certainly requires replacement;
if the brushes are worn unevenly, this will also negatively affect the functioning of the generator, so they need to be replaced.

There is no need to skimp on buying new brushes. If you find a cheap option, it is highly doubtful that they will last long. It is more likely that such savings will lead to the need to re-replace the above-mentioned components.

Reassembly

After purchasing high-quality brushes (it is advisable that your choice falls on a well-established manufacturer), you can begin the general assembly of the element, and then install the generator itself in its place.

However, as mentioned above, the last procedure can be performed without removing the generator. Which, however, is something every car owner decides independently. All operations performed should be performed in reverse order.

After completing the work, the operating efficiency of the entire generator must be checked.

If the replacement of failed brushes was carried out correctly, and the battery was discharged precisely because the main elements of the car’s electrical system were worn out, the car owner will solve this problem without the help of service station workers.

And in this case, you will save a lot on such a service. The replacement process is really quite simple. However, if you encounter any difficulties during the repair work, you can watch the help video. It is provided by specialists.

On the Internet resource you can, among other things, find out:

about design features - generator 2170; how to check the generator for operability, what you should pay special attention to; how to change wipers on a Priora and so on; what other possible problems with the energy generator

Alternator belt: how to tension, what tension should be and how to check

How to tension the alternator belt

Many car owners are interested in the question: how to tighten the alternator belt? After all, the battery charge level and the voltage in the car’s electrical network depend on this. Also, the condition of the belt itself, as well as the condition of the crankshaft bearings and the generator shaft, depend on how the generator belt is tensioned. Next, we will analyze in detail how to properly tension the alternator belt with a specific example.

The importance of tension level and checking it

Let's consider what unpleasant consequences an incorrect level of tension will lead to. If it is weakened, then there is a high probability of slippage. That is, the generator drive will not operate at rated speed, which in turn will lead to the level of voltage generated by it being below normal.

The result is an insufficient level of battery charging, insufficient electricity to power the vehicle systems, and operation of the electrical system under increased load.

If the belt is too tight, this can also cause excessive wear on the belt itself. And in the worst case, even to its breakage. Also, excessive tension has a detrimental effect on the bearings of the crankshaft and generator shaft, because they have to work under conditions of increased mechanical load. This leads to excessive wear and speeds up their failure.

Tension check

Tension checking process

Now let's look at the issue of checking tension. It’s worth mentioning right away that the force values are unique and depend not only on the make and model of the machine, but also on the generators and belts used. Therefore, look for the relevant information in the manuals for your car or in the operating instructions for the alternator or belt.

This will also be influenced by the presence of additional equipment installed in the car - power steering and air conditioning.

In general terms, we can say that if you press the belt on the longest section between the pulleys with a force of about 10 kg, then it should deviate by approximately 1 cm

One thought on “Electrical diagram of Lada Priora in detail”

These materials present in an extremely simple and accessible form a description of the maintenance and repair of VAZ Lada Priora cars in a step-by-step manner using ready-made spare parts in a garage workshop. Possible malfunctions have been studied and methods for eliminating them have been considered.

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

The generator in cars is designed to generate electricity and charge the battery. If the normal operation of a car electric generator is disrupted, the battery begins to discharge and soon the car will stop starting completely - there is not enough battery charge. This device consists of a three-phase diode bridge, which, in turn, has 6 silicon diodes. Electrical voltage is created by the excitation of the rectifier at the moment when the rotor poles change under the stator windings. When the rotor rotates inside the machine stator, the poles of the rotor change. To increase the value of magnetic fluxes, the stator contains an electromagnetic exciting winding in the area of the magnetic cores. Marking and designation of wires:

P - pink.
F - purple.
O - orange.
B&W - black and white.
KB - brown and white.
CHG - black and blue.
K - brown.
H - black.
B - white.