April 20, 2017 Lada.Online 185 909 65
If, while operating a LADA car, you notice that during load (when the air conditioner is running, the heating is on, etc.) in a traffic jam, the engine begins to operate unstably (troits, pulls poorly, etc.), perhaps the reason lies in the ventilation system crankcase The article proposes to solve the problem by installing a PCV valve from a foreign car.
Installation and cleaning of the crankcase ventilation system in Lada Priora
When creating new car models, special attention is paid to environmental protection. Thus, the crankcase ventilation system (Priora, Kalina) has been modernized, which meets modern environmental safety requirements. It ensures the removal of combustion products of the fuel-air mixture, which collect in the oil pan as a result of exiting through the not very tightly fitting piston rings to the cylinder walls.
Operating principle of SVKG
Car engines have a ring gas exhaust system. The resulting gases as a result of the combustion of diesel fuel, gasoline or liquefied gas are not released into the environment, but are returned to the engine, where they are re-burned. The second end of the crankcase ventilation hose is attached to the intake manifold, with the help of which gases again enter the cylinder chamber for combustion. A significant part of the gases, when re-entered, ignite at the moment the fuel ignites, and the remaining ones are released into the atmosphere using the exhaust system. A small percentage of the gases are sent back into the cylinder chamber for re-combustion. This process is ongoing.
Product delivery options
Note! Below are the shipping methods available specifically for this product. Payment options may vary depending on the shipping method. Detailed information can be found on the “Delivery and Payment” page.
Parcel by Russian Post
Available payment methods:
- Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 5 to 12 days.
Parcel by Russian Post 1st class
Available payment methods:
- Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 2 to 5 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 50%. Parcel weight up to 2.5 kg
Express Parcel EMS
Available payment methods:
- Cash on delivery (payment upon receipt)
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Shipping throughout Russia. Delivery time is from 3 to 7 days. More expensive than regular delivery by Russian Post, approximately 100%.
Transport companies
Available payment methods:
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Delivery is possible to any locality where there is a representative office of the transport company. Delivery time is from 2 to 10 days. Sending large parcels is approximately 50% more profitable than by Russian Post.
Courier delivery in Togliatti
Available payment methods:
- Cash upon receipt
- Using cards Sberbank, VTB, Post Bank, Tinkoff
- Yandex money
- QIWI
- ROBOKASSA
Delivery time from 1 to 12 hours.
SVKG device in Lada Priora
In all brands of cars, the SVKG is built on a similar principle. Only small details differ. On the upper side of the crankcase there is an oil separator, which looks like a hollow plug. An oil deflector is placed under the plug, which is designed to clean the gases from the crankcase as much as possible from oil particles. The oil separator has an outlet for the crankcase ventilation hose.
In order for the gases to return to the cylinder chamber, a ventilation valve is placed along their path. The valve has three modes, which allows you to maintain a certain level of gas rarefaction in the crankcase.
While the engine is idling, gases move through a small circuit hose through a special passage hole in the throttle assembly. At this time, a high vacuum is created in the intake hose, which allows crankcase gases to be effectively sucked out of the throttle block. The passage hole in the throttle regulates the amount of gases that are sucked out.
This allows you to stabilize the engine in idle mode. When the car begins to move, the throttle valve opens, causing gases from the crankcase to enter the cylinder through a large circuit hose for combustion.
Options for creating forced crankcase gas cleaning
The truth is that not everything is as simple as it seems at first glance. There are two approaches by which forced crankcase ventilation can be performed. Exhaust gases can be removed from the crankcase, and perhaps the opposite effect is the flow of air from outside.
An example of how a forced crankcase ventilation system based on exhaust gas removal is constructed is given above. In this case, the exhaust gases that have broken through are under the influence of vacuum in the intake manifold and enter through the oil separator (1), valve (2) and through hoses, having been cleared of oil particles, they again enter the engine cylinders.
An option when the ventilation system is built on the influx of fresh air is shown in the figure below. In this case, outside air enters the engine crankcase, mixes with crankcase gases, and flows back into the engine cylinders through a special PCV valve. A ventilation system constructed in this way avoids the release of internal combustion engine products into the atmosphere. This is exactly the approach used by modern automakers when designing and manufacturing cars.
To maintain normal engine operation at idle, the PCV valve blocks the exit of gases from the crankcase when there is a deep vacuum in the pipeline.
An indispensable attribute of a modern internal combustion engine is crankcase ventilation, most often designed as a closed system. It allows you to increase the reliability of the engine and reduce the negative impact of vehicle exhaust on the atmosphere. » alt=»»>
Cleaning SVKG in Lada Priora
After prolonged use, gas deposits accumulate in the crankcase ventilation system. This deposit makes it difficult for gases to pass into the cylinders. As a result, the gas pressure in the engine increases, which leads to oil leakage. Timely cleaning of the SVKG will help prevent this. The manufacturer of Lada Priora recommends carrying out this procedure after every 60 thousand kilometers. This service manipulation can be performed in a car workshop or independently.
To do this, you need to have tools (narrow pliers, 8mm nut wrench, Phillips screwdriver).
When cleaning the SVKG yourself, you need to perform the following steps:
- Remove the decorative engine cover.
- Remove the air filter.
- Carefully loosen the clamp on the ventilation hose clamp on the engine.
- Remove the crankcase ventilation hose (CVH) from the air supply sleeve.
- Loosen the clamp on the air supply sleeve.
- Disconnect the air vent hose from the throttle assembly.
- We loosen the clamp of the clamp and disconnect the ShVK of the large branch from the cylinder head cover (cylinder head).
- Using the same actions, we remove the small branch shvk, disconnecting it from the cylinder head cover and the throttle fittings.
- Loosen the clamp of the inlet ShVK clamp.
- We remove the supply ventilation hose and remove it from the cylinder head cover.
- Disconnect the supply ventilation hose from the cylinder head pipe.
- We wash all the hoses with gasoline, blow them out and dry them with a hairdryer. We also clean and dry all pipes and hose connections.
- Unscrew the cylinder head cover.
- We remove the separator by tightening its fastening in the form of 6 bolts, which are located inside the cylinder head cover.
- Using pliers, squeeze the oil deflector clamps and pull it out.
- Using a screwdriver, pull out the ring-shaped rubber seal. If it has lost its shape, then replace it with a new one.
- We clean the cylinder head cover and all mating surfaces from the sealant and degrease it with gasoline. Before installing the cylinder head cover, apply new sealant.
- We assemble the SVKG in reverse order.
While the engine is running, it is prohibited to break the tightness of the SVKG, as well as to remove the oil filler cap.
This will lead to the release of toxic substances into the environment and disruption of the crankcase.
Engine breather VAZ 2112 16 valves
Cleaning the crankcase ventilation system on VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112
Welcome! The crankcase ventilation system is needed so that the atmosphere is not clogged and the exhaust gases are allowed to burn out again, this system was implemented in many cars, starting from the VAZ 2101 and ending with cars such as Lada Priora, Lada Granta, etc., but when the engine is worn out, this system is removed by the people themselves by removing all the hoses of the crankcase ventilation system, usually into a bottle, or just outside, we will analyze this in this article, so if your car has already covered quite a lot of mileage, then this article will be useful to you benefit. Note! We will only disassemble cleaning the ventilation on 16 valve engines; if you have an 8 valve engine, then go to the article: “Cleaning the crankcase ventilation on a VAZ 2114”, in this article this engine is described; to clean the crankcase ventilation of a 16 valve engine, you will need stock up on: Small pliers, screwdrivers with different heads and all kinds of wrenches; in addition, you will need sealant for the cylinder head cover and a new gasket!
Summary:
What does the crankcase ventilation system consist of? From the hoses, from the oil separator, from the oil deflector, all these parts can be seen in the diagram below, all of this gets dirty over time and therefore the crankcase ventilation system needs to be disassembled from time to time and cleaned inside from dirt and oil, then the engine will work normally and everything the dirt that is in the ventilation system will not fly into the engine to burn out again, but for engines that have traveled quite a long mileage (200 thousand km and more), we recommend simply putting this system in a bottle so that it does not choke the engine of the car and he was driving more or less, and to bring the crankcase ventilation into the bottle, you will need a screwdriver and a suitable (Small) container, for more details on how to do this, see the video clip which is located at the end of the article, it shows everything in detail.
When should you clean the crankcase ventilation system? It all depends on how well the engine works; if its piston rings are worn out and it constantly throws oil into the crankcase ventilation, then it will need to be cleaned much more often, unlike if the engine is new or overhauled, it’s easy to clean it in such engines a ventilation system is needed once every 40,000 thousand km. approximately (You need to clean it before changing the oil), you can do it more often if you have free time, it won’t make it worse, but a heavily polluted crankcase ventilation will make it difficult to remove crankcase gases into the cylinders, which will cause the gas pressure inside the engine to increase and the gases to there will simply be nowhere to go except for other types of seals to come out through the oil seals, and therefore oil will begin to flow through the oil seals (Mainly due to a dirty crankcase ventilation system, oil begins to flow through the front crankshaft oil seal).
Cleaning on VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107
Breeding
1. Remove the air filter housing from the car engine (for more details, see the article “Replacing the air filter housing”)
The note! Be sure to remove the flame arrester from the crankcase ventilation hose and wash it with kerosene in case of severe contamination.
2. Release the clamp by attaching the additional hose to the breathing cap (marked with a red arrow) and disconnect the additional hose. Continue unscrewing the main hose clamp (marked with the blue arrow) and remove it from the cover.
3. Remove the engine oil level sensor.
4. Unscrew the bolt securing the fan cover and remove the cover from the car engine.
5. Dampen a cloth with kerosene and wipe the inside of the oil separator.
The note! Be careful when wiping; Do not allow dirt to get inside the engine. If you are not comfortable cleaning dirt from the installed oil separator, remove it from the vehicle by unscrewing the lock nut (indicated by the red arrow). Place the removed oil separator in a prepared container with kerosene.
6. Clean the surface of the air filter from dirt by wiping it with a cloth soaked in kerosene.
The note! Remove the gasket from the filter housing and clean it of dirt.
Installation
This is done in the reverse order of removal.
The note! Replace broken or cracked gaskets with new ones. Make sure the metal shims are inserted into the air filter housing gasket (shown in photo).
READ Alarm Installation Map for VAZ 21214
Important! If a large amount of kerosene gets into the crankcase, change the engine oil! (Read more in the article “Changing Engine Oil”)
For beginners! Question: What does the oil separator look like? Answer: in the photo.
Cons of SVKG in Lada Priora
By cleaning the atmosphere from the emission of toxic substances, SVKG creates problems for the engine. The gases that are removed from the pan, despite the presence of an oil separator, are saturated with microscopic oil particles, which after some time leads to contamination of the fuel intake system.
This leads to engine interruptions. Gas particles settle on the valve components, which leads to its failure. This disrupts the fuel injection system into the combustion chamber and increases oil consumption. If contamination is severe, fuel injection does not occur. In this case, the valve must be completely replaced. It is necessary to periodically inspect the crankcase ventilation hoses, because under the influence of the environment they age and crack.
If you detect oil stains, an increase in the amount of oil consumption, an increase in the consumption of fuel and lubricants, as well as disturbances in the engine (stopping, does not start for a long time, makes exhaust and other uncharacteristic sounds), be sure to immediately contact a service center to have the engine checked and repaired. Timely treatment will reduce the cost of engine repairs and prolong its operation.
Source
PRIORA oil in the air duct
Hello everyone. In general, the client’s car had covered 70,000 thousand miles, with five thousand kilometers, oil appeared in the air duct, ran out from under the valve covers - in general, the engine was all in oil, this did not bother him much - while the oil began to accumulate strongly in the air duct, then it ran through the DMV to air filter. In general, the oil level was enough for 6,000 thousand. I changed the valve seals, piston rings, timing belt, etc. I left. The other day he arrived (5,000 thousand traveled) oil in the air line, pressure is normal, gases do not go into the breather, in principle says it doesn’t consume oil (strains the oil in the air duct) maybe with a separator (on the valve cover) what’s wrong (no wonder oil appeared in the air duct in the first 5 thousand) anyone have any thoughts? The car was taken from the showroom
Operating principle of SVKG
Car engines have a ring gas exhaust system. The resulting gases as a result of the combustion of diesel fuel, gasoline or liquefied gas are not released into the environment, but are returned to the engine, where they are re-burned. The second end of the crankcase ventilation hose is attached to the intake manifold, with the help of which gases again enter the cylinder chamber for combustion. A significant part of the gases, when re-entered, ignite at the moment the fuel ignites, and the remaining ones are released into the atmosphere using the exhaust system. A small percentage of the gases are sent back into the cylinder chamber for re-combustion. This process is ongoing.
Refinement of small crankcase ventilation - logbook Lada 2112 Dvinuyn 2005 on DRIVE2
I decided to improve the low crankcase ventilation. I’ll start by telling you why a crankcase gas recirculation system (CGR) is needed. During operation of the internal combustion engine, crankcase gases accumulate in the oil pan, which enter through piston rings that do not fit tightly to the cylinder walls. To relieve pressure in the crankcase, they came up with a crankcase gas recirculation system. If previously crankcase gases were vented into the atmosphere on cars, now it is prohibited, since we do not comply with EURO-4, 5, 6 standards... Our cars are equipped with a closed SRKG. Thus, the circulation of crankcase gases occurs. Of course, this system has its drawbacks - crankcase gases capture oil particles, forming a slight mist, and re-enter the engine, passing through the remote control, IAC, receiver, valves, and thus the intake becomes contaminated, and this in turn negatively affects operation engine (squeezes out the internal combustion engine plugs). The greater the mileage of the car, the greater the amount of deposits. You can often find cars with snotty pipes, sensors and a sweaty motor. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor crankcase ventilation.
Features of ventilation design, operating principle
The simplest diagram of the crankcase ventilation system used on internal combustion engines previously consisted of only one fitting - a breather installed in the crankcase.
This breather connected the internal cavity of the cylinder block with the external environment, and crankcase gases simply escaped through it into the atmosphere.
But this scheme had one significant drawback - the exhaust gases contained oil particles, which also entered the external environment. And this is not only loss of lubricant and the need for periodic refilling, but also air pollution.
On modern cars the ventilation system is closed. It also has a breather, but a pipe is connected to it, allowing gases to be vented into the intake manifold or air filter housing, from where they enter the cylinders and burn. That is, the atmosphere is not polluted by them.
Additionally, the system includes elements that ensure oil separation and return back to the crankcase so that it does not enter the cylinders along with the gases.
There are several options for oil separators, and on cars from different manufacturers they may differ in design and operating principle.
It is worth noting that part of the exhaust gases enters the supra-valve space, and they must also be removed.
Therefore, the entire circuit of the engine ventilation system on a modern car consists of a breather, an oil separator and two pipes.
Additionally, a special valve can be included in the system to regulate the pressure of gases entering the intake manifold.
The configuration of the system can be very different, but this does not change its purpose and operating principle. For example, consider the ventilation design of the VAZ-2110.
At the bottom of the cylinder block of this car there is a breather, onto which a pipe is attached; the second end of this hose is connected through a fitting to the cylinder head cover. At the same time, an oil separator is located inside this cover at the inlet of the pipe.
On its other side there is another fitting, to which a tube is connected that goes to the air inlet pipe.
The principle of operation of such ventilation is simple - gases enter the cylinder head cover space through the breather and pass through the oil separator, while the separated oil flows to the valve assembly.
After this, the gases are mixed with those that have broken into the supra-valve space and are supplied to the air pipe, and then to the manifold. There is no pressure regulating valve in this car.
On other machines, the oil separator may be located immediately next to the breather, and a valve is installed behind it.
SVKG device in Lada Priora
In all brands of cars, the SVKG is built on a similar principle. Only small details differ. On the upper side of the crankcase there is an oil separator, which looks like a hollow plug. An oil deflector is placed under the plug, which is designed to clean the gases from the crankcase as much as possible from oil particles. The oil separator has an outlet for the crankcase ventilation hose.
In order for the gases to return to the cylinder chamber, a ventilation valve is placed along their path. The valve has three modes, which allows you to maintain a certain level of gas rarefaction in the crankcase.
While the engine is idling, gases move through a small circuit hose through a special passage hole in the throttle assembly. At this time, a high vacuum is created in the intake hose, which allows crankcase gases to be effectively sucked out of the throttle block. The passage hole in the throttle regulates the amount of gases that are sucked out.
This allows you to stabilize the engine in idle mode. When the car begins to move, the throttle valve opens, causing gases from the crankcase to enter the cylinder through a large circuit hose for combustion.
Diagnosing the cause of oil rush
Since there are a large number of reasons for oil leaking through the breather, a comprehensive check of the engine is necessary to determine exactly why the problem arose.
At the same time, to carry it out, you don’t even need to disassemble the power plant, it’s just enough to take measurements of some parameters, as well as visually assess the condition of the ventilation.
For example, let's take the already mentioned VAZ-2110. Let's assume that in the engine of this car, plaque and oil deposits were noticed in the intake manifold, which indicates oil leakage through the breather.
To determine what caused this problem, you will need little - a set of open-end wrenches, a screwdriver, a compression gauge.
We'll start the test by assessing the exhaust gases. To do this, just start the engine and look at their color shade.
If it is gray or black in color, this indicates oil getting into the cylinders due to wear or sticking of the CPG rings or problems with the timing belt. Only this can help determine the cause; read more here - the causes of smoke from the exhaust pipe.
It is also necessary to check the compression in all cylinders. In the normal state of the cylinder-piston group, it should be in the range of 11-13 MPa. The difference between the readings in the cylinders is allowed to be no more than 1 MPa.
If the compression in one cylinder is significantly lower, it can cause oil leakage.
But why exactly this is happening - rings or valves - can be determined by the spark plug that was installed on this cylinder.
Heavy carbon deposits on it will indicate a problem with the CPG.
But if the compression is low, and the spark plug has a normal working appearance without carbon deposits, you should check the valves.
Damage to power plant mechanisms
Damage to the power plant mechanisms responsible for proper mixture formation and oil separation in the combustion chamber (piston scuffing, oil scraper rings, burnout of valves, disappearance of honing, etc.) In this case, the oil enters the combustion chamber of the car, where it mixes with fuel and air vapors, burns out completely. Oil consumption with such a malfunction can be enormous, more than 1 liter per 1 km. Black smoke begins to pour out of the exhaust pipe. This malfunction is caused by driving on a “cold” engine. After 50-60 cold starts, honing sets the oil scraper rings in one direction, the seal is broken and oil consumption increases. The skirt comes off the pistons, the valves burn out, the oil seals become hard. There is only one treatment - engine overhaul.
Cleaning SVKG in Lada Priora
After prolonged use, gas deposits accumulate in the crankcase ventilation system. This deposit makes it difficult for gases to pass into the cylinders. As a result, the gas pressure in the engine increases, which leads to oil leakage. Timely cleaning of the SVKG will help prevent this. The manufacturer of Lada Priora recommends carrying out this procedure after every 60 thousand kilometers. This service manipulation can be performed in a car workshop or independently.
To do this, you need to have tools (narrow pliers, 8mm nut wrench, Phillips screwdriver).
When cleaning the SVKG yourself, you need to perform the following steps:
- Remove the decorative engine cover.
- Remove the air filter.
- Carefully loosen the clamp on the ventilation hose clamp on the engine.
- Remove the crankcase ventilation hose (CVH) from the air supply sleeve.
- Loosen the clamp on the air supply sleeve.
- Disconnect the air vent hose from the throttle assembly.
- We loosen the clamp of the clamp and disconnect the ShVK of the large branch from the cylinder head cover (cylinder head).
- Using the same actions, we remove the small branch shvk, disconnecting it from the cylinder head cover and the throttle fittings.
- Loosen the clamp of the inlet ShVK clamp.
- We remove the supply ventilation hose and remove it from the cylinder head cover.
- Disconnect the supply ventilation hose from the cylinder head pipe.
- We wash all the hoses with gasoline, blow them out and dry them with a hairdryer. We also clean and dry all pipes and hose connections.
- Unscrew the cylinder head cover.
- We remove the separator by tightening its fastening in the form of 6 bolts, which are located inside the cylinder head cover.
- Using pliers, squeeze the oil deflector clamps and pull it out.
- Using a screwdriver, pull out the ring-shaped rubber seal. If it has lost its shape, then replace it with a new one.
- We clean the cylinder head cover and all mating surfaces from the sealant and degrease it with gasoline. Before installing the cylinder head cover, apply new sealant.
- We assemble the SVKG in reverse order.
While the engine is running, it is prohibited to break the tightness of the SVKG, as well as to remove the oil filler cap.
This will lead to the release of toxic substances into the environment and disruption of the crankcase.
How to clean the crankcase ventilation system on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?
Note! Before you start work, remove the air filter housing, as it will interfere greatly; if you do not know how to do this, then read the article entitled: “Replacing the air filter housing on dozens”!
Removal: 1) The hardest thing is to remove the cylinder head cover, but the remaining parts that relate to the ventilation system (And these are mainly hoses), removing is as easy as shelling pears, in general, let's start, first you will need to disconnect the wires from each other, namely the upper connectors (see photo 1 ) and lower connectors (Indicated by a red arrow), once this is done, remove the connectors, to do this, squeeze the two latches on one connector with your fingers and remove it (see photo 2) and do the same with the other connector, just without removing it, they will interfere, and in general you won’t be able to remove the cylinder head cover without removing these connectors, because the wires simply won’t allow you to do this, both connectors were sitting on brackets, so unscrew the bolts securing them and remove both brackets from the cylinder head cover, in more detail how to do this , look at photos 3 and 4 below.
2) Now remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head cover, it is bolted on and by the way, when you remove it, replace all the O-rings, firstly they are not expensive and secondly, after replacement, you will be 100% sure that the collector will not let air through anywhere, since the rings will be new; you can read in more detail how to do this in the article entitled: “Replacing the receiver on a 16-valve car.”
3) Then start removing the hoses, they are held in place by clamps, the clamps are loosened using a screwdriver or wrenches, if it is not convenient to work with a screwdriver, all the clamps that you will need to loosen and all the hoses that you will need to remove, you can see in the photographs a little below:
Note! Rinse the removed hoses with gasoline or kerosene, then dry them in the sun and, if possible, also blow them with compressed air (for example, a compressor), before installation, make sure that the hoses are dry, if necessary, wipe them dry with a rag and by the way, Carefully clean all those places where the hoses are connected with a cloth and remove all dirt from them!
4) When everything is finished, remove the cover from the Cylinder Head, it is secured with fifteen bolts, these bolts are unscrewed with a socket wrench or a socket head and an “8” wrench, then the cover is separated from the cylinder head with a screwdriver and removed from the car, it is most convenient to separate it from the cylinder head in those places where there are special protrusions for this, one of such protrusions is indicated by a blue arrow.
5) After you have the cylinder head cover in your hands, using a wrench or a socket wrench, unscrew the six bolts that secure the separator to it (Several bolts are indicated in the large photo) and disconnect it from the cover (see small photo).
Note! This separator is an integral part of the crankcase ventilation system, it has such a part as an oil deflector, to pull it out, you will need to compress the side clamps using pliers (see photos 1,2), a rubber o-ring will be installed on the oil deflectors, picking it up with a screwdriver , you also need to remove it (see photo 3,4) and replace it with a new one, if such a ring is difficult to find in car shops, then you are allowed not to change it if it is in good condition, namely: It should not be too compressed, the rubber is not should become rough and lose its elasticity, and there should be no cracks or other types of damage on the ring!
Installation: Installation of all parts is carried out in the reverse order of removal, but before installation, wash everything thoroughly with gasoline or kerosene, this also applies to the cylinder head cover itself, there should be no dirt on it, and also remove old sealant (with a screwdriver or fine-grained sandpaper) the surface where the cylinder head cover is installed, after cleaning, degrease it and apply a new sealant, as it is shown in the small photo below:
Additional video: An interesting video that will give you a little additional information on the crankcase ventilation system is located just below:
Source
Inspection and cleaning of the ventilation system
On the VAZ-2110 this is done like this:
- Disconnect the pipes from the breather, valve cover, air pipe and check the degree of clogging. If necessary, they can be washed in gasoline or kerosene and then dried;
Unscrew the nuts securing the valve cover and remove it. On the inside there are two bolts securing the oil separator roof, which must be unscrewed;
Remove the unscrewed cap and remove the oil separator.
It is a package of special plates that can be disassembled, washed each plate separately, assembled back and put back in place.
Since the design of the system may be different on other cars, it is performed somewhat differently. But this does not change the essence of the work - all elements are removed and washed.
As for the exhaust gas control valve, which can be installed in the ventilation system, assessing the degree of contamination and cleaning it is not difficult.
It is removed, the stroke of its rod is checked, and if it jams, then the valve is simply washed in gasoline, dried and put back in place.
This is all maintenance work on the crankcase ventilation system. They are not difficult to perform, and every car enthusiast can do it.
Finally, we note that it is recommended to clean the ventilation every time the oil is changed.
Where is the engine breather located?
From engine to engine, different car manufacturers may place the breather in different places. But in most cases it is located on the valve cover, next to the filler neck. Although there may be options: it is better to clarify in the description instructions for the car or find out on thematic forums.
In the picture on the right is the crankcase ventilation system of the VAZ 2111 engine, which includes a breather:
- Crankcase.
- Breather.
- Hose from the breather to the valve cover pipe.
- Oil separator under the valve cover.
- A thin hose from the valve cover to the fitting with the throttle body nozzle.
- Fitting with jet on the throttle valve block.
- Thick hose from the valve cover to the intake pipe..
But the breather is installed not only in internal combustion engines. It is in:
- Gearbox. Otherwise, the gearbox would begin to operate jerkily, and the wear of the gears on the secondary shaft would increase many times over. Something similar is observed when the breather becomes clogged and ceases to perform its function.
- If the design of the car provides for a separate transfer case, then a similar mechanism may be in it.
- Front, and in rear-/all-wheel drive vehicles - in the rear axle. Moreover, this inconspicuous detail not only equalizes pressure, it protects the mechanisms from dirt and moisture when overcoming water obstacles.
However, even their appearance is often similar, and often identical: they perform the same function.
Cons of SVKG in Lada Priora
By cleaning the atmosphere from the emission of toxic substances, SVKG creates problems for the engine. The gases that are removed from the pan, despite the presence of an oil separator, are saturated with microscopic oil particles, which after some time leads to contamination of the fuel intake system.
This leads to engine interruptions. Gas particles settle on the valve components, which leads to its failure. This disrupts the fuel injection system into the combustion chamber and increases oil consumption. If contamination is severe, fuel injection does not occur. In this case, the valve must be completely replaced. It is necessary to periodically inspect the crankcase ventilation hoses, because under the influence of the environment they age and crack.
If you detect oil stains, an increase in the amount of oil consumption, an increase in the consumption of fuel and lubricants, as well as disturbances in the engine (stopping, does not start for a long time, makes exhaust and other uncharacteristic sounds), be sure to immediately contact a service center to have the engine checked and repaired. Timely treatment will reduce the cost of engine repairs and prolong its operation.
Why is the PCV valve important?
Faulty PCVs can cause engine oil contamination, sludge buildup, oil leaks, high fuel consumption, and other engine damage problems, depending on the type of fault.
While some of these problems can be caught before they escalate with simple checks, failure of the PCV valve or related components often results in costly repairs. This is because most car owners do not include the PCV system in their maintenance routines. Even though some car manufacturers suggest replacing this part regularly, car owners still forget to replace it. Additionally, not all manufacturers emphasize the importance of regular system checks.
Later in this article we will discuss how car owners can test their own PCV valves.
But before we get to that, here's this entire article in a nutshell: what the crankcase ventilation valve does, what happens when it fails, and how to test it.
Drives oil through the breather: diesel and gasoline internal combustion engines
Engine diagnostics for oil leaks through the breather requires an integrated approach. There is no need to disassemble the power unit to check. It becomes clear that at the initial stage you should assess the condition of the breather, make sure it is working and clean the device if necessary. The oil level is also checked using the dipstick. If everything is fine with the level and there are no other additional signs of a problem, then it is optimal to replace the breather with a known good one.
After making sure that the breather is working properly and ventilation is at an acceptable level, you will need to make a series of measurements and assess the condition of the CPG. As already mentioned, the cause may be failed rings, that is, you will need to measure the compression in the engine.
Also, the color of the exhaust gases can additionally indicate the need to measure compression. To check, just start the engine and then evaluate the exhaust. If the engine smokes blue or gray smoke, then this may be a sign of engine oil getting into the cylinders due to worn piston rings. When checking compression, you need to take readings in each individual cylinder. In the normal state of the CPG, compression should be at 11 MPa and above (it is recommended to consult the technical literature in relation to a specific type of internal combustion engine). If a run-up is detected according to the readings in the cylinders, the differences should not exceed 1 MPa.
Failure to reduce compression will indicate that further checks will be related to the ventilation system. The method for testing this system will be considered using the example of the domestic VAZ 2110 model. Other cars may have some individual features, but the general principle will be similar.
- At the very beginning, you need to disconnect the tubes from the valve covers, breather and air duct pipe. Then the degree of contamination should be assessed. If the tubes are clogged or dirty, then they can be cleaned with carburetor cleaner or gasoline. Afterwards you will need to blow them with compressed air or dry them naturally.
- Next you need to get to the oil separator by unscrewing the fixing bolts and removing its cover. After this, the oil separator itself is removed. This device is made of special plates. It is necessary to disassemble the element and wash it. Washing can be done in gasoline and then dried.
- At the same time, it is recommended to inspect and flush the valve, and also check the stroke of the rod. This is possible after removing the device. Valve jamming can also be eliminated by washing. The entire list of actions described allows you to keep the crankcase ventilation system clean and maintain its functionality.
Lada Priora Station Wagon Roach 2WD › Logbook › PCV valve.
I feel like I’ll publish this material a little later. Today is January 10, 2018
and I just picked up all the parts from the store. There is still installation and testing ahead.
So! A month ago I came across a very interesting article by comrade IgorRV about modernizing the crankcase ventilation system. It was described in detail, I decided to try making it myself.
And then there was a note (and another note) by comrade kulibin2004, after reading which my ardor died down somewhat.
But alas! I am constantly drawn to adventure, so I decided to check the feasibility of this valve personally.
The canonical instructions indicate General Motors valve 94580183. It is also recommended to pay a little more and install valve 2674021314 HYUNDAI/KIA. The first is in a plastic case, the second is metal. I took the second one.
I’ll just remove the old hose with the jet, I won’t cut it. Suddenly you want to return it back... I took the additional crankcase ventilation hose (BRT) from the VAZ-2123. Plus 4 clamps.
When assembling, the main thing is not to screw up the direction of the valve.
Added 01/11/2018.
Collected. Nothing special, just -8 outside, my hands were freezing, it was dark, and the phone I was using was dead exactly when I had already removed the old hose and was getting ready to install a new one. There was enough hose to spare.
I started it right away and reset the average consumption to zero. I turned on the heated rear window - the speed dropped, as usual. There may be differences, but they are minimal.
Let's go. First I taxied around the yard, in first gear. You immediately feel MUCH smoother and more elastic engine operation. At low speeds it works noticeably more pleasantly. Starting from a traffic light again became noticeably better. I’m not ready to say that cravings have increased. If so, it will be insignificant. But the jerking and twitching went away. Yes, the most important thing! The delay between pressing the gas and increasing the speed has completely disappeared. At first it was just wildly pleasing, but I quickly got used to it - after all, everything became the way it should be. And if one can argue with the presence/absence of an increase in low-end traction and elasticity (softness) (because taste in general is an asshole), the result here is obvious.
And I was almost ready to say that the improvement had paid off. But! Fuel consumption. I reset it, but somehow I didn’t control it. In the morning I come to the parking lot, start it, turn on the heated rear window, go sweep away the snow while the engine warms up. As soon as it warmed up to 50 degrees, I was ready to go. I checked the average consumption, and it was 22 liters/100 km! Shock and horror! I’m ready to chalk it up only to the fact that I’ve driven 5 kilometers since resetting, plus warmed it up in the morning. While driving to work (20 minutes, city mode, no traffic jams), the average consumption dropped to 14 liters/100 km. All the same - atas... I'll see what happens next. With all this, the driving experience is excellent, it really works great! Soft, smooth - a sight for sore eyes!
Added 01/16/2018.
The average consumption is gradually decreasing. I only drove around the city. By the weekend it turned out to be 11.4. On the weekend I drove around the city as usual, plus to the ski resort (through the whole city). With traffic jams. The average consumption is 9.8. With the beginning of the new work week, the consumption rose to 10.3. Previously, under similar conditions, it was about 12-13. It seems that everything is too good to be true... All that remains is to check on the track. But that's in two weeks.
The average flow rate increases (and noticeably) during warm-up. Now it’s winter, I heat the coolant to 50 degrees, there’s no blanket, I don’t close the radiator. 20 minutes to work, around the city. That is, the conditions for measurements are not the most favorable for obtaining beautiful values. I turn on the stove only after warming up.
Added 01/22/2018.
Another week of urban regime. 11.4 liters by the end of the working week. On the weekend I drove around the city and went to the ski resort. The weather is snowing (it’s been falling for 24 hours), nothing has been cleared, that is, the consumption must obviously be high. However, by Sunday evening it drops to 10.1. Just like that. You heat less, you drive more.
Added 01/28/2018.
So, I drove 325 km along the highway. 24 liters. 7.3 per hundred. At the same time, I drove the return half in a strong snowstorm. It has been snowing for two days now, the entire route is covered, the temperature is -13, -15 degrees. That is, the consumption in such weather is clearly increased. The speed is 90-120. The same consumption was achieved in the summer at obviously higher speeds. And now it’s snowing—there’s no clear comparison. In the summer I’ll compare them completely.
Bottom line.
In the meantime, I'm happy with the new thing. The most important thing is that I feel more comfortable driving. No gas pedal lag, smoother operation. The consumption doesn’t disappoint. I installed it for myself and I recommend you try it. Fortunately, it is available.
Used:
1. VALVE-PCV valve Hyundai / KIA. Article: 2674021314. 318 rubles.2. VAZ-2123 crankcase ventilation hose additional BRT. Article: 2123-1014240. 90 rubles.3. Worm clamps, 4 pcs. 4x25=100 rubles.
Let's sum it up
Taking into account the above, it becomes clear that an increase in crankcase gas pressure and oil leakage through the breather indicate a number of problems with the breather or internal combustion engine. Quick detection and elimination of faults will reduce the cost of repairing the power unit. This is true if the problem is eliminated at an early stage, that is, without the consequences that arise after a long period of ignoring the malfunction and further active operation of the engine.
Finally, we note that quite often heavy oil leaks through the breather do not appear immediately. In other words, the lubricant may leak slightly, which is sometimes unnoticeable. In other cases, about 0.5 or a liter of lubricant can escape through the breather from the lubrication system, taking into account a short mileage (on average, 1-3 thousand km). With such a significant leak, the operation of the internal combustion engine is stopped, diagnostics and repairs are carried out.
What malfunctions are indicated by the emulsion on the oil dipstick and oil filler cap? Ways to independently determine the causes of this problem.
Purpose and principle of operation of the breather. Why are breathers installed on internal combustion engines, gearboxes and axles? When it is necessary to clean the breather, useful tips and recommendations.
How to determine a burnt engine valve yourself. The main symptoms of a burnt valve, exact clarification of the causes of engine tripping. Diagnostics, useful tips.
Why oil leaks from under the gasket or valve cover housing: causes of lubricant leaks. How to fix an oil leak from under the valve cover yourself.
The main reasons for engine oil getting into spark plug wells. What should a driver do if oil flows into the spark plug well, how to carry out repairs with his own hands.
Why does engine oil start to drip or leak at the junction of the engine and gearbox. How to accurately determine the cause of a lubricant leak, methods of diagnosis and repair.
Five ways to defeat engine oil burns without major repairs
Typically, oil leaks are observed on cars that have run about 150 thousand km, but it happens that the engine begins to “sweat” on new cars due to defective or incorrectly installed sealing parts.
Accordingly, your task is to detect leak locations. Note that the most common crankshaft seals that lose their seal are the front and rear oil seals. There are also frequent cases when camshaft seals lose their tightness. Finally, the oil drain plug or oil filter may be leaking oil.
Most often, the problem is solved with little effort - replacing gaskets and seals. But if the engine is turbocharged, the turbocharger oil supply and drain pipes may leak. In this case, oil risks getting into the intake system and contaminating the piston part, as well as into the exhaust system, and then the catalytic converter will be at risk.
This solution is a half-measure, but in some cases, especially when the car is not new, and it is necessary to extend its life as much as possible without resorting to major repairs, it is quite effective. There is no point in radically increasing the viscosity.
For example, if you previously used 0W-20 or 5W-30 oils, then you can try a lubricant with a value of 5W-40. Almost immediately after changing the oil, you will feel a difference in the engine’s oil appetite.
However, the price for such a decision may be a deterioration in the starting performance of the engine, especially in severe frosts in winter. In addition, switching from synthetic oil to semi-synthetic and even mineral water can solve the problem. You just need to make sure that such lubricants meet the car manufacturer’s tolerances.
A fairly common case is when valve stem seals, also known as valve seals, wear out over time and begin to leak oil. The causes of wear may be temperature changes (for example, after the engine overheats), or engine oil that is incompatible with rubber structural elements.
It all depends on the design of your motor. In some cases, these parts can be replaced without removing the cylinder head, so you definitely won’t go broke on such repairs. However, it is often necessary to remove the camshafts, which involves disassembling the front of the engine; usually the cylinder heads also need to be removed. However, the costs of such events are still not comparable in price to major repairs. Oil consumption from such a procedure can be reduced several times.
Symptoms of a Stuck PCV
- Engine misfires at idle
- Lean air-fuel mixture
- Presence of engine oil in PCV valve or hose
- Increased oil consumption
- Hard engine start
- Rough, unstable engine operation at idle
Additionally, a stuck PCV valve can cause a check engine light due to increased air flow. And the diagnostic computer may mistakenly show this error due to the mass air flow sensor or oxygen sensor, making it difficult for you to identify the real source of the problem.
Removing and replacing the Priora oil pump
This operation must be carried out either in an inspection pit or on a special lift, unless, of course, you remove the engine from the Priora. So the process begins.
First of all, all the oil from the pan must be drained into a substitute container by unscrewing the pan plug. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the pan. Using the “8” key, unscrew the oil intake mount and remove it.
Use a No. 5 hex to remove the timing belt cover. Unscrew the damper. After squeezing the rollers, remove the belt from the crankshaft gear. Remove the gear itself. Remove the key from the crankshaft. Carefully wipe all surfaces with a rag and unscrew all six mounting bolts of the Priora oil pump housing.
After this, carefully pry up the unit housing and remove it from the crankshaft along with the gasket. Now all that remains is to replace the Priora unit. Clean the seat on the block and wipe with a rag.
Install a new gasket on the unit prepared for replacement and assemble in reverse order. Fill with the recommended oil and start the engine. Wait until the oil pressure warning lamp goes out. That's it, the Priora oil pump has been replaced.
In the video, removal and disassembly of the VAZ-2112 oil pump and modifications. Replacing a unit on a Priora is similar:
Operating principle of oil pressure blower
The VAZ-2170 engine, like all other engines in this series, is equipped with a gear-type vortex oil pump. The rotation of the gears, driven by the crankshaft, creates a turbulent (vortex) flow, which sucks oil into the working chamber and then sends it on a journey throughout the entire lubrication system.
This unit has the same device as all engines of VAZ front-wheel drive cars. Therefore, speaking about any of them, you can be sure that this device is the same on other engines.
Possible malfunctions of the Priora oil pump
There are several main malfunctions of this important unit.
- gear wear;
- wear of the pressure reducing valve spring;
- damage to the pump housing.
In the first two cases, repairs can be made and the pressure blower can be returned to its place. But in the latter it is easier to replace the entire unit. This will give confidence that the lubrication system will operate normally, and replacing the oil supercharger will not be necessary in the near future.
Signs of malfunction of the Priora unit
The first and most noticeable sign of such a breakdown is the warning lamp signal on the instrument panel. If it does not go out after starting the engine, it means either there is not enough pressure in the lubrication system, or the sensor is faulty.
Therefore, at the slightest doubt, you need to check the condition of all nodes. First of all, replace the sensor with a working one and start the engine. This is a simple procedure; it is located in the block head. On a 16 valve engine - above the thermostat. On the 8 valve above the manifold in the area of the first cylinder.
If the light continues to light after the sensor has been replaced, the Priora oil pump needs to be replaced or repaired.
Source
Article: 2112-1014056, additional articles: 2112-1014056Р
Order code: 006580
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Today, in the next article in the series “Crystal VAZs or typical breakdowns of domestic cars,” we will talk about the latest developments of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant: Lada Grante and Lada Largus. Let's talk about the history of the creation of these models, as well as their characteristic malfunctions.
I have long noticed oil stains on the cylinder block near the breather outlet (crankcase gas pipe), it was time to replace the pipe, but since it doesn’t affect the speed, I didn’t want to go there. There was also some slight fogging at the inlet of the breather pipe into the valve cover and the upper pipe entering the throttle sleeve, and near the oil pressure sensor. The other day on Drive, the topic of engine fogging came up, and I decided not to put it off any longer and still start replacing the pipes. Since the car does not have an air conditioner, there is access to the lower clamp of the breather pipe, although it is not entirely convenient. I knew that I would rip everyone off again, but I put up with it, just so as not to crawl under the car and remove the protection, because... I have neither a pit nor a lift. Replacement is not difficult, see photos for details.
This beauty of oil and dust has grown on my cylinder block!
The breather pipe inlet into the valve cover is almost dry.
The outlet from the valve cover is also covered in oil, but the inlet to the throttle sleeve is dry.
The thin hose is also snotty.
Oil at the inlet of a thin hose into the receiver.
I bought two new pipes and a bottle for washing the engine.
