Installation and connection of a glass closer on Lada Granta, Kalina. niva. 4x4, etc.

When replacing power windows, first disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Removing and replacing the window lift mechanism

Replacing the cable without dismantling the entire window regulator is quite problematic, therefore it would be more convenient to remove the entire mechanism. First, you need to lower the glass so that you have access to the brackets securing the glass to the window lifter; unscrew the two fastening bolts with a “10” head.

Next two options

, it would be more convenient to completely remove the glass by turning it slightly counterclockwise, but removing it from the door can scratch or damage the tinting; to avoid this, simply secure the glass with tape.

Next, with the same head, both nuts of the middle fastening, one nut of the lower, and one of the upper fastening of the guide of the lift mechanism are unscrewed.

The plastic socket is removed from the slot of the handle, and the three fastening nuts are unscrewed with an “8” socket head. Now you can remove the window lift mechanism assembly through the door access window.

If the glass was removed completely and the guides were turned away, its correct position in the opening is regulated by moving the bolts in the oval holes of the bracket.

Many VAZ 2110 cars are equipped with electric windows; to dismantle such a mechanism, the principle is the same

, with the only difference that first of all it is necessary to disconnect the switch from the gearmotor, then the lift is removed and the gearbox itself is disconnected.

After removing the entire VAZ 2110 window lifter mechanism, the drive cable is easily replaced with a new one. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly. If you have provided new holders (pistons) in advance, no problems will arise.

When installing the glass lift handle, pay attention to the tightness of the fit; if it is loose, you can wrap the slot with a layer of electrical tape or fume tape, pressing it into the grooves of the slots

Main causes of failure

Most likely the power window fuse is at fault.

The angle is not good, but this is exactly what the mounting block looks like when you look at it from above

From the situation you described, it follows that the fuse is to blame. There are enough symptoms and prerequisites for its breakdown. First, you raised one glass, which is already good, since raising both windows at the same time is not recommended due to the increased load. Then they started to lift the second window, and the fuse burned out.

If one of the glasses works, then the fuse is good.

The button is broken

The power window buttons in the Norma configuration usually do not cause problems

If only one of the two or four power windows does not work, depending on the configuration and equipment of the car, then the problem is most likely in the button or in the wiring to it. It is necessary to remove the front door trim and ring the buttons, you can also look at the voltage on them.

Front passenger window button

Motor failure

Appearance of the new motor (purchased to replace a broken one)

The window lift motor on the Lada Granta rarely causes problems. This part is reliable, but it can also fail. You can check the motor by applying voltage to it forcibly, that is, directly from the battery.

Grant's electrical circuit responsible for the engine compartment

Here are the main parts of the Lada Granta wiring, which are responsible for the normal operation of the power plant:

• 1 – power supply to the headlight, front right;
• 2 – power supply for windshield washers;
• 3 – voltage to the left side of the head optics;
• 5 – on-board power supply;
• 6 – head fuse block;
• 7 – generator;
• 8 – horn;
• 9-11 – terminal blocks to the dashboard;
• 12 – contact pair of rear headlights;
• 13 – main radiator fan drive.

Replacement of front electric windows of Lada Granta

You will need: a flathead and Phillips screwdriver, a 10mm wrench and remove the front door trim.

Front ESP mounting diagram: 1. glass guide fastening nut; 2. nut for fastening the gearmotor; 3. glass holder bolt; 4. block with electric drive wires.

First you need to remove the Granta door glass; to do this, you need to lower it to its lowest position. Further:

• Remove the door trim mounting bracket by removing 3 bolts.
• Remove 2 bolts (according to diagram No. 3), holding the glass.
• Remove the front door glass by lifting it up and turning it in the door opening.

To remove the Lada Granta power windows you need:

• Unscrew the 8 nuts securing the glass guides (No. 1 according to the diagram), as well as the 3 nuts securing the window lift motor to the inner door panel (No. 2 according to the diagram).
• Remove the window lift mechanism assembly with the gear motor from the door cavity.
• The photo shows the assembled ESP Grants.

Installation of window regulators is carried out in the reverse order.

Installation

Window lifter mounting diagram in Vesta doors

:

Removing and installing a window regulator

(the process is similar for mechanical and electrical):

1. Remove the spacer from the handle axle.
2. Unscrew the two bolts securing the glass holder to the slide by 2-3 turns.
3. Raise the glass and secure with tape.

1. Remove the 2 nuts securing the window lifter guide.
2. Unscrew the 3 nuts securing the window regulator mechanism to the door and remove it.
3. Installing the window regulator is performed in the reverse order.

Wires for rear ESP

No, so you will have to do the wiring yourself. We remove the wires from the driver's door. Here we either buy female/male terminals for the door connector, or make holes with a drill.

Next, we stretch the wires under the threshold to the rear left door, and then under the sofa to the rear right door.

We install a new ESP control unit and ESP switches for rear passengers.

Removing the power window mechanism for the front door of Lada Granta

Tool:

• Open-end wrench 10 mm
• Small flat screwdriver
• Medium Phillips screwdriver
• Driver for socket attachment
• 8mm wrench attachment
• Scissors

​Parts and consumables:

Notes:

Carry out the work to replace the window lifter mechanism. The operations for removing the front door window regulator are similar.

1. Place the glass in the upper position.

2. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery, as described in this article.

3. Remove the front door trim as described here.

4. Tape the glass to the door frame.

5. Loosen the glass holder bolts.

6. By pressing the latch, disconnect the wiring harness connectors of the window lift motor gearbox.

7. Using an 8 mm socket, unscrew the three bolts securing the door trim mounting bracket and remove it.

8. Using a 10 mm socket, unscrew two nuts 1 of the upper and lower fastenings of the two guide sliders of the window lifter to the inner door panel and three nuts 2 of the gear motor fastenings.

9. Remove the power window mechanism from the door through the lower rear access hole in the interior panel.

10. Install the power window mechanism in reverse order.

Source

Required

• driver's window control unit (article 8450006933);
• power window control buttons for rear doors (article 8450006925);
• rear electric windows from Vesta (catalog numbers: 8450007860 and 8450007861) or remake the ESP from Priora;
• wires;
• terminals type LIRA 2.8 (6 pieces);
• wrench “10” and Torx T20;
• remove door trims.

Lada Granta 2012, 87 l. With. - breakdown

Lada Granta, 2015

Lada Granta, 2015

Comments 12

Hello everyone, I also have a grant, but the right window lifter does not work for me

Hello. I have the same problem, and I also have window closers, the right lift has stopped working. How did you solve the problem?

I didn’t decide, I gave up, every other time it either works for me or doesn’t, I just started lifting the windows with my hands (like this is more reliable than checking every time whether it’s up or not)

Good day!

When I press the button on the right front passenger window, the window goes down all the way and immediately returns up (LADA GRANTA luxury).

What could be the reason?

I would like to inform you that an additional security alarm was installed along with the standard one.

My right one is also having some nonsense

=) That’s right... the button is dead, the power window buttons are connected in series

This happened to me, and I thought the engine was dead. But it turned out that the button is the brain... I disassembled and reassembled everything works

I stopped by the service center, one of the electricians said, go to the officials, you’re not the first, supposedly the engine of the grant is bent, I’ll talk to them tomorrow, everything would be fine, but the officials are in another city 60 km from mine, I work until half past six , after work, either rush or ask to take time off earlier.

But the most annoying thing is that they will have to leave the car to get home - figure out how to do it yourself, and...

I have a major Shumka there, but I feel like they won’t stand on ceremony, they’ll tear everything up, so when I get there, I’ll ask what holes they need, and I’ll tear them off as needed =) (there’s a possibility that they’ll also come after me, saying, well, I shorted the Shumka there =) )

Firmware for ECU grants. to sew or not to sew, and if to sew, then with what thread. - drive2

Seven years ago, a neighbor in the country flashed the ECU of his nine. And he spoke with admiration about the improvement in traction, the absence of failures, and the reduction in fuel consumption. What caused my disbelief is that the absence of failures is possible, but saving fuel while improving traction is impossible. I am a 4th category car mechanic, I argued about the impossibility of saving fuel, if traction improves, then gasoline consumption increases, that the factory employs professional engineers using expensive special equipment, and that in a garage, even Kulibin, on his own, cannot create a program better than the factory one. In general, everyone remained with their own opinion (I decided that it was flooding). In 2022, having bought a Granta, V1.6 liter, manually, I discovered that the car jerks when driving slowly in a traffic jam, becomes dull when accelerating, and consumes too much gasoline. And when it started to infuriate me in 2021, I remembered my neighbor’s story. And after scouring the Internet for a couple of days, I got the result: there are no specifics on fuel consumption, throttle response increases, jerking when driving slowly disappears, drivers are 50% for the firmware, 50% against (with the same reasoning as mine). Firmware manufacturers 100% for re-firmware. I decided that the amount was not large, and if I wasn’t satisfied, I’d go back to the stock (factory) firmware (the firmware guys give me a two-week test drive). In my city there are three such offices (professionally involved in firmware), the cost is from 5,500 rubles to 3,500 rubles for a Grant, and 8,000-10,000 rubles for a Hyundai Solaris. I decided to go around them and talk to the craftsmen. Everywhere they sewed Paulus firmware, but I did not receive an answer to additional questions about additional functionality after the firmware (gear shift prompt, the ability to connect cruise control, fuel consumption, and so on). In one they began to plan to remove the catalyst, and install a spider and a flame extinguisher for 12,000 rubles. Doubts about the need for firmware have increased. I went to Paulus’s website, read his arguments, found his representative in my region, and still decided to flash it. My car is equipped with an Itelma ECU 11186 484178 0612 1741177 with i484GG03 firmware. I called the Paulus representative and was pleasantly surprised by the price of the firmware, 2,500 rubles, but was disappointed by the lack of a two-week test drive. I received answers to the questions asked and agreed to flash the ECU in my yard (the representative lives 50 km from my city). A man arrived, connected the smartphone to the diagnostic connector, and checked the system for errors. I connected the laptop to the cigarette lighter socket and to the diagnostic connector, and in 30 minutes I flashed the ECU with the i484GG03 2022 firmware improved by Paulus. I did the same with my son-in-law's car, a Hyundai Solaris with an automatic transmission. I went with the technician to test drive the ECU. On this day, after the thaw, it froze, snow fell (the road was like a skating rink), I felt throttle response immediately, the car started slipping, the engine began to turn not 2000-3000 rpm, but up to 4500. Acceleration was many times more confident, there was no failure with a delay, even in the second There was a slippage in the transmission when the gas was pressed sharply. When driving on a straight, flat road in fifth gear, at a speed of 60-70 km, instantaneous fuel consumption showed 5.6 liters, I have never seen such figures on the factory firmware. On the Hyundai, the automatic switching became softer, the throttle response increased (which was later noticed even by my daughter with a year of driving experience). For flashing two cars we received a 500 ruble discount. The issue price for Grant is 2000 rubles, Solaris is 4500 rubles. I am 100% satisfied with the firmware, the throttle response has increased, the jerking in traffic jams at low speeds has disappeared, pressing the gas pedal is instantly picked up by the engine. It is not correct to check fuel consumption in the city; there are different speeds, distances, number of traffic lights, etc. Outside the city (the trip to the dacha is 80 km), the indicator is on an asphalt, dry road, speed is 80-100 km/h, on the Paulus firmware it is 6.4 liters, on the factory firmware it was 7.6 liters. On the 2500 km highway to the south, 6.9-7.0 liters on the factory firmware; there is no data on fuel consumption when driving over a long distance on the new firmware, but it will certainly be less. In general, I feel like an idiot for not having the flashing done immediately after buying the car, which would have saved gas and made it more enjoyable to drive. One minus is that driving a car has become more aggressive (as the car is rushing). The answer is definitely to sew, and I think it doesn’t matter what thread, Paulus, Icebreaker, Avast, but only with trustworthy craftsmen, the firmware suitable for equipping your car will have a positive effect.

New Lada: How to disable the immobilizer of a VAZ or Kalina? ::

Finding the cause of a broken window regulator

The power windows can be activated when the key is inserted into the ignition switch and in the “ON” position. If nothing happens when you press the power window up/down button, it is likely faulty. To fix the problem, you need to understand why the problem occurred.

Fuse box

Checking the power window system to detect a failed element is carried out as follows:

If the power windows refuse to work, you need to check the circuit breaker or fuse, it is quite possible that it has blown. If only the rear power windows stop functioning or if they respond to control only from the main unit (i.e. the buttons on the doors do not work), you need to check them for current conductivity. If the malfunction has not been detected, you need to inspect all the wires connecting the system elements to each other for integrity. If a break is found, the connection should be restored. If you cannot lower/raise only one window using the main power window control unit, you should try to do this using the buttons that are embedded in the door trim. If the glass manages to move, you should check the operation of the main power window control unit. A possible reason for the failure of one of the window regulators may be the failure of the electric motor.

In this case, it is worth checking its voltage and wiring, for which you will need car electrical circuit diagrams. You should also pay attention to the possibility of mechanical damage to the guides along which the side glass moves.

If upon inspection it is discovered that they are bent, then most likely this is the reason why the movement of the window regulator is difficult.

Motor

Most often, car owners have to deal with problems with the wiring that connects the elements of the window lift system and the failure of electric motors. The main reason for their breakdown is the active use of power windows, frequent opening/closing of windows, as well as obsolete wiring.

Before you fix the problem, you will have to spend a lot of time trying to understand why the power windows are not working. You can abandon the idea of ​​independently searching for the cause of their breakdown and turn to experienced car electrical technicians. This is the best solution to the problem in case of lack of free time.

Applicability on cars

Electric windows “GRANAT” are an original Russian development that has no analogues. It is simple, reliable, tested over the years on various car models.

Window lifters “GRANAT” are deservedly popular among Russian motorists. An excellent choice both for tuning and as a replacement for faulty original electric windows.

Features of the “GRANAT” window lifters: – the operating principle in which the motor reducer, together with the glass frame, moves along a fixed guide (rail) of the window lifter using a toothed shaft; – are installed in place of the guide of the original window lifter and are attached to the standard holes, while drilling additional holes and modifying the doors is not required.

Main advantages: – reliable original design, – absence of glass distortions, – absence of bending elements guarantees long-term uninterrupted operation, – window lifter is equipped with an imported gear motor, – noise level 40 – 50 dB (no louder than a running car engine), – electric window lifter during the established operating life does not require special maintenance.

Power window doesn't work

Modern, well-equipped cars are always equipped with electric windows. The presence of such a function is no longer a special innovation, but, nevertheless, it is appreciated by numerous motorists for the convenience that this system provides.

However, during the operation of their car, car owners often notice how poorly the window regulator works, that it does not respond to pressing a button or periodically jams. To understand what happened to this element, you need to have an idea of ​​the window lift system as a whole and the principles of its operation, and only then start troubleshooting.

Components of the window lift system

The power window system operates thanks to electric motors that are built into car doors and are responsible for raising and lowering the side windows. The electric window system includes the following elements:

regulators (electric motors);

Operating principle of electric windows

The electrical control system, as a rule, has a trapezoidal design that ensures easy lowering and raising of the windows when the corresponding buttons are pressed on the main switch block, which is either located next to the driver or is embedded directly in the door cards. An independently functioning motor is installed inside each door, which is capable of working in two directions, raising the glass up and lowering it down. The power window system on modern cars includes special relays that control the electric current going to the window motors.

Manufacturers of electric windows for VAZ cars

ESP for VAZ 2101-07 and 2108-2115 cars is produced by various companies - the mechanisms can have different designs and are sold in sets for two or four doors. Zhiguli electric windows are almost never sold individually; in stores you can only find separate ESP motors. Among the most well-known manufacturers of electric window lifting mechanisms are:

• Katran (2104-05-07);
• Granat (2104/2105/2107);
• Forward (2108-09-099);
• SPAL DE LUX (2110-11-12);
• Golden eagle (2110/2112).

The industry produces several types of ESP for Zhiguli cars, and electric windows can be:

Each model of window lifters has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. It should be noted that ESP mechanisms from different manufacturers have design differences between each other, and therefore they are not interchangeable. Kits of parts are relatively inexpensive, and the most popular are ESP kits for front doors. The standard set of electric windows includes:

• the door lifting mechanisms themselves with motors;
• two window lift buttons;
• wires with plugs for connection;
• necessary fasteners;
• stubs.

Almost all kits contain instructions for installing parts with an electrical connection diagram.

How to remove the power window button on a grant

Electric window switches are installed in the door trim. A block with switches for all electric windows is installed on the driver's door. Depending on the configuration, some vehicles may have power windows installed in the rear doors.

To remove the switches, it is advisable to dismantle the door trim, since if you try to remove it by prying it with a screwdriver, there is a high probability of damaging the trim and the switch itself.

The operation is shown using the example of a switch block on the driver's door. Removing and installing the power lift switch on the passenger door is performed in the same way.

1. Remove the door trim

2. Squeeze the two latches.

and remove the power window switch block.

You can check the switch with a multimeter in ohmmeter mode. The switching of the switch terminals is shown in the general diagram of the electrical equipment of the car.

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As you understand by the locations of the reeds

But on the driver’s side (there are no sides here, only two in front and two in back)

The module is removed in the same way, but either with two screwdrivers or something wide (I didn’t remove it a second time for the sake of the photo. I actually removed it while removing the casing to find where these tabs are.)

Then we take them home. They are held in place by 5 latches (two on the side and one) I pushed a cap under each, and then pulled the 5th with a screwdriver and pulled it out

Don't lose these things:

They stand on both sides of the board in the slots

We see the following: The diode itself is circled

Let's solder it. Here it is on the tape side by side: DDD

Next, take a knife and remove the varnish from the tracks in order to increase the area. We tear off, tin, and weld the diode from the tape. Angled towards the larger part of the board

Yellow indicates the corner on the diode. This is checked by supplying 12V to the appropriate terminals. “+” is written on the board, but just in case I noted it in the photo.

It’s easy to assemble: put the main part in place, if the plates fall out, put them back in place. We take the part with the button in our hands and holding it by the body so as not to press the button, we simply snap it into place.

Installation

For installation, no special fixtures, instruments or other equipment are required. The entire installation process is trivial and will be simple for any male person. The main thing is to have desire and skillful, masterly hands. Before starting the installation, you need to purchase a five-pin standard relay for VAZ car models in advance. Then the door closer itself is installed; all you need to do is run a wire under the door trim and that’s it. But the most important role here is played by the alarm system, since a free open channel comes from it, to which the automatic glass closer system is connected.

Through this signaling channel, a negative pulse is sent, which polls the sensors.

When you have already reached the finish line of installing the closer, you must disconnect the negative power cable from the battery . This is a kind of protection against short circuits that can occur and damage the entire electrical wiring of the car. These actions must be completed without fail.

The next step is to remove the door card from the driver's door. When removing, you need to act carefully so as not to damage or deform it. If it is not available, then it is better to buy hedgehog clips in advance. The new ones are better, there will be no worries about poor fastening.

After this, the connectors are removed from the power window control module in the Lada Granta model.

Common faults

There are many reasons why the window regulator on Kalina does not work and why the device needs to be replaced, but we will look at the main ones:

1. The electric motor brushes are stuck, usually as a result of overheating of the brush elements themselves, which, as a rule, are not resistant to sudden temperature changes. Accordingly, as a result of heating the brushes, the plastic socket may melt. This will also cause the brushes themselves to lose mobility. If the malfunction has just begun to appear, you can knock on the plastic door lining several times to restore the unit’s functionality. However, over time, this method will no longer be able to produce the required result, so intervention in the design of the joint venture will be inevitable.
2. The cause of the malfunction, which may require replacement of the joint venture, can also be the ill-conceived electrical circuit installed at production. The contacts themselves are not able to withstand the necessary load that is placed on them. The SP system may fail due to the fact that the electrical circuit is not supplemented with a unloading relay. So in the event of a breakdown, it often happens that the car owner has to repair not only the power windows, but also the control panel itself.

As practice shows, in most cases, repairing a unit is either completely impossible, or can be done, but with great difficulty. Accordingly, the best option would be to install a new joint venture (video author - Emilien Ok).

Flashing the immobilizer

As a rule, Priora is equipped with a standard APS-6 immobilizer.
This, as already said, is an optional procedure, but if the budget does not allow you to invest in a security system, you will inevitably have to deal with all this electronic “stuffing”. In addition to the power windows, the immobilizer controls several other systems of the car, even the rear lights. But the main problem is precisely that in the Priora car the immobilizer is structurally combined with the glass unit controller. Priora lends itself well to tuning. A solution was also found for the immobilizer. During learning, the immobilizer writes its code to a non-volatile area of ​​the ECU memory, which is stored in a disabled state. To disable the immobilizer, you need to clear this memory cell in the ECU.

To do this, you need to disconnect the original wiring connector from the immobilizer. Next, you need to determine the type of ECU. The flashing method will depend on this. If it is a Bosch M1.5.4, you need to open it and install a specially prepared chip with a program for cleaning the ECU EEPROM in place of the standard one and turn on the ignition for a few seconds. For some ECUs, you need to download special programmers from the Internet.

Features of connecting power windows

Unlike conventional mechanical devices, power windows are not equipped with traditional gear reducers, but with a special drum. The shaft of a DC electric motor is inserted into its hole located in the center. In this case, the motor is only a component of the gearmotor, on which, as we found out earlier, the speed and quality of raising and lowering the windows depends.

Before installing a new power window, you must select the correct device based on its technical characteristics, and also make sure that the product is in a fully folded state. Otherwise, you are unlikely to be able to install the product efficiently and ensure its flawless operation after connecting it to the vehicle’s on-board network.

You've probably noticed that on almost all foreign cars the power window buttons are duplicated on each car door. To connect additional ESP buttons in the doors, you need to run an additional three wires into each door.

Standard ESP connection diagram

Changed to this scheme (here without rear ESP)

Connection diagram for additional ESP button.

How the additional ESP button is made on Kalina

To install one duplicate button in the door you will need:

1. 2x contact (plastic connector) block male + female 1 pair
2. Large male terminals 2 pcs.
3. Mom large 2 pcs.
4. Mom little 7pcs
5. Earth 1pc.
6. Power window button 1 pc.
7. Button installation cup 1 pc.
8. Power window button connector 1 pc.
9. Wire diameter 0.75 4 met.
10. Door pistons 7pcs

If your ESP buttons have been moved to the doors. then the insert into the harness for additional buttons will look like this. The meaning is that we need to run 3 wires into each door:

1. Ground (Ground, in theory, can be taken into the doors, but there is not always good contact there, so it is better to run a separate ground wire)
2. +12V “after ignition” (with power window relay at ChYa)
3. Button illumination (take it from the cigarette lighter, since it is in the middle between the doors.)

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

We look for +12V on the ESP relay (black and white wire) to it and screw both of our red +12V

Then we climb through the door. There are 2 wires going to the ESP motor - gray and blue, through a connector. Unplug the connector:

We take 2 wires (I have black and black and white), of such length that we can reach from the original chip with the blue and gray wire going into the corrugated door to our future button. We crimp 2 large male terminals onto them and insert them into the connector. We put it on the chip with blue and gray going into the corrugated door, so that the black comes from the gray, and the black and white from the blue:

Insert the wires into the button connector:

1. Red +12V
2. Black mass
3. White backlight
4. Black with gray wire chips
5. Black and white with blue wire chips

We crimp with small “mothers” and insert the ESP buttons into the connector. We do it according to the scheme:

1. Red +12V to slot 2
2. Black ground - in slot 5
3. White backlight - in slot 4
4. The black wire from the gray wire of the chip goes into slot 6
5. Black and white from the blue wire chips - into slot 3 (THREE).

Don’t confuse the button connector sockets! That’s not all, we need two more short wires, through which we will now connect our button to the ESP motor, like we’ll do it as it was. For beauty, we take the same colors of wires that were attached to the original chip going to the door from corrugated material, i.e. black and black and white. It will be like a continuation of the original wires, and in the middle of them is our button. We insert the black wire into socket 1 of the button connector. Black and white - into socket 7. We crimp the other ends of these wires with large “mothers” and put the purchased connector on them so that when putting this on connector to the dangling chip going to the ESP motor:

1. The black wire went to the gray ESP motor chips
2. Black and white - to the blue wire of the ESP motor chip.

In principle, that's all. Don't pay attention to the orange wire in the photo - it's a mass for heating the mirrors.

You can use the button from Kalina. it is more beautiful and a little more expensive than the VAZ 2110.

Electrical circuits of cars VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112, repair

Technical features of the insert

Installing catalyst replacements can eliminate the problem of a clogged exhaust filter and return the car to its previous performance - power and gas mileage. But what are these substitutes? This insert is a hollow pipe that does not have filters.

• acceleration of warming up of the car in the cold season;
• the car picks up speed better;
• fuel consumption is reduced.

In some cases, there is a change in the sound volume when the car is running. The sound becomes more bassy. The Lada Kalina computer can display “Check” on the dashboard when driving with the insert. To prevent this, use a lambda probe or oxygen sensor.

This sensor is an integral part of the exhaust system with a catalyst. The sensor analyzes the level of oxygen and harmful gases in the exhaust and transmits the information to the on-board computer. Based on the data obtained, the computer determines the performance of the catalyst. The lambda probe cannot be repaired; if it breaks, the part must be replaced.

Since the insert does not reduce the level of toxic substances in the exhaust, the lambda probe will constantly transmit information about a catalyst malfunction. To avoid this, special devices are used - decoys. They come in two types: mechanical and electronic.

Mechanical blende is a bronze spacer of a certain size, filled with ceramic chips coated with a catalytic layer. Exhaust gases pass through the small holes of the device, interacting with the crumbs, due to which the CO2 concentration is reduced. Electronics analyzes the changes and sends information to the computer about the normal operation of the catalyst.

Electronic snag is a high-tech device based on a single processor. Such a device analyzes the operation of the exhaust gas purification system and transmits information about the serviceability of the catalyst. The electronics understand that smog filtering is not happening, but generates a signal corresponding to the correct functioning of the system.

Installing electronic deception involves reflashing the computer to exclude from its code the calculations of dosage corrections transmitted by the rear oxygen sensor. The program does not save records of catalyst operation errors in the computer memory.

You can replace the catalyst with an insert in many car repair shops. Self-replacement is recommended only if you have the appropriate tools, skills and experience. You can install electronic deception yourself, but you need to have a good understanding of the principles of computer operation and have the necessary software. Otherwise, the car owner risks making the situation worse.

Installation of power windows on a VAZ 2107

Electric windows designed for models 2104-05-07 are suitable for the front doors of the 2107 car; the easiest way to install a rack and pinion design. We install rack ESPs as follows:

• disassemble the door from the inside - remove the window handle (using a special tool or screwdriver);
• unscrew the lock release button;
• unscrew the armrest screws (three fastenings - front (top), middle and back)

• dismantle the door trim (main part);
• remove the upper part of the casing (“loaf”);
• Using a 8mm wrench, unscrew the mechanism bolts;
• unscrew the bolts of the glass guide bar, remove the guide, it will not be needed;
• we take the SME out of the door;
• unscrew the screws securing the mechanism to the glass (4 pieces - two screws on one side and two on the other);
• unscrew the window lift cable tension nut and remove the cable roller;
• completely pull out the window lifter mechanism;
• drill two holes in the door with a diameter of 6 mm (one of them is next to the hole in the door closing handle);
• We do the drilling on the same plane, and fasten the gearmotor in place of the mechanical window lifter. All screws must be taken from the kit; standard screws will not fit - they are long and will rest against the lift mechanism. If there are no short screws with the window regulators, you need to shorten the standard screws;
• We fasten the glass holders to the electric window with standard screws;
• We take out the wires from the lifts, install the buttons either on the door itself or on the central armrest, next to the gearshift lever console.

We assemble the door, and this completes the installation of the window regulator on the VAZ 2107.

Video

A simple way to increase the speed of the windows on a VAZ:

Specifications:

DC power supply with a voltage of 12V and a current of no more than 2.5A;

The glass lifting time is no more than 5 seconds;

Nominal lifting force 120 N;

Noise level 40 - 50 dB.

In order to unify and reduce the cost of the people's car, the designers of OJSC AvtoVAZ retained most of the parts (approximately 70%) from the Lada-Kalina car. And the electric door windows were no exception - Lada-Granta cars are equipped with an electric drive for raising and lowering the front door windows, which is completely similar in design and execution to the mechanism previously installed on Lada-Kalina cars.

If in previous VAZ models, on which a mechanical window lifter was installed, the usual gear reducer was used, then on the VAZ 2190 model there is only a drum with a hole into which the output shaft of the gearmotor is pressed.

The gearmotor itself is structurally made of a direct current electric motor, excited by permanent magnets and a worm gearbox.

Lada Granta power windows do not work

Description: Good afternoon reader, do-it-yourself car repair is a collection of all kinds of instructions (articles, videos, photo reports, questions/answers) that clearly show how to do the repair yourself. For ease of use of the etlib.ru website, all materials are divided by car brands and models, as well as into categories and types of materials. When buying a car, car enthusiasts are increasingly interested in doing their own car repairs. And so everything is in order, the length of the body of your car is 3302, width is 1245, height is 1962 mm. The wheelbase is 2933 mm. Ground clearance 112 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The four-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides engine power output. There are sixteen valves per engine. The diameter of one cylinder is 54 mm, the piston stroke is 38 mm. The engine crankshaft accelerates to 6000 rpm. Maximum torque is maintained up to 8000 rpm. Original video title: Firwat funktioneiren d' Fensterheber op Lada Granta

Release date: 05.12.2015

Quality: HD 720

Posted by admin: at the request of Dorofey

Reasoning of a car owner named Islam: Well, I won’t compare it with other manufacturers here. The car is satisfied with the price/quality ratio. It has everything for both work and travel on vacation. A spacious transformable interior. Sliding rear doors have more than once helped in tight parking so that you can move from front to back and back without any problems (IMHO) the trunk seems simply dimensionless if you fold the rear row, and for a larger volume you can also fold the middle one.

I myself work as an auto electrician, and I often have to work on the road (including over long distances), so I need tools, spare parts, and overnight accommodation.

Laughter on the topic: - How often do you drink alcohol? - More than once a week. - More specifically? - Seven.

Necessary tools for work: 1. sledgehammer; 2. Open-end wrench 32; 3.

>What to do if the power windows on Grant do not work?

Socket wrench 10; 4. scissor; 5. awl; 6. wires;

It is also necessary to check the presence of voltage at the terminals of the electric motor that operates the window lift mechanism. Often this unit fails due to lack of voltage. If there is no electricity, you need to look for an open circuit. Usually the fault should be looked for in the relay. It is also worth cleaning the contacts of the control panel. Often for this reason, the window lifter (right or left) does not work on the Lada Kalina car.

The window regulator consists of mechanics and electrics, and therefore the reasons must be sought in these parts. Let's look at where the problem may lie:

• A fuse has blown or a relay has broken.

The relay can be replaced with a jumper as in the photo. But, remember that this is a temporary option, be sure to change the relay in case of breakdown. Breakdown of the wires or the chip has come off.

Tap to the left of the button, then try pressing the button. If it works, then the contact between the wire and the button is to blame.

• Problems with the power window control unit.
• Mechanical failure within the part itself.

Troubleshooting Methods

So, when the window regulator stops working, it is necessary to find and eliminate the cause. Let's look at the whole process and steps step by step:

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the fuse. In the block it is marked as F5

You need to take it out and look. If it burns out, it should be replaced with the same one with the appropriate marking. If the fuse is intact, then the problem is in the power supply and you need to look for the problem of a broken wire. We take out the fuse and use a tester to check whether there is voltage in the on-board circuit. To do this, you need to insert the probes into the sockets and see if there is power supply. If not, then you should check the wires, relays, and control unit.

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