The Lada Granta Liftback “Norma” and “Standard” configurations do not have a mechanical button for opening the trunk lid. Often, owners are forced to turn off the engine and then run with the key to open the luggage compartment. This is not always convenient or practical, especially in bad weather.
The equipment of the Lada Granta Liftback “Lux” has a button to open the lid. Owners of other assemblies can independently install the trunk button on the Granta Liftback by following the instructions below.
Where to buy a power trunk lock
To protect yourself as much as possible from purchasing non-original spare parts, service center technicians recommend using the services of official representative offices, service stations, dealers, and specialized auto stores.
Do not purchase goods from third-party suppliers who sell spare parts at unusually low prices. Always ask the seller to provide documents identifying the manufacturer, and check that the package includes a warranty card.
Recently, it has been popular to order parts and then install them at a service center. There are many advantages of this method, for example:
- efficiency of delivery;
- professional installation;
- quality guarantee for work performed;
- Possibility of individual ordering for tuning and local upgrades.
How to diagnose the trunk door lock of a Lada Granta liftback
During the operation of Lada Granta liftbacks, owners may encounter a situation where, while driving, the door open indicator lights up on the instrument cluster. Or, when the fifth door is closed, the light in the trunk is on and the car cannot be set to alarm. To identify the causes of these malfunctions, LADA dealership centers use information letter No. 87-19 “On diagnostics of the tailgate lock of Lada Granta liftback cars.”
The diagnostic technique is as follows
:
1. Open the tailgate (the trunk light is on), note that in this case a two-position lock 21910-6305010-10 (84500-02338) is used.
2. With the door open, manually close the lock 2 clicks using a screwdriver with a diameter of up to 6 mm, moving it beyond sector “B”. Closing the lock by 2 clicks is shown by the levers “A” located at the right point of movement until it stops according to the photo below:
Check that there is a guaranteed gap between the emergency trunk release lever and the inner panel of the tailgate. The gap should be from 0.3 mm to 0.9 mm.
If there is no guaranteed gap between the lever and the door panel, or the lever is jammed, with the formation of rubbing on the lock lever, it is necessary to remove the lock to modify the plane of the plastic lever. Using a mechanic's tool, remove 0.5 mm of the width of the lever to eliminate harmful contact causing blocking of the lever and blocking of the limit switch.
If, after carrying out the above actions, the lighting in the trunk when closing the trunk lock manually with a screwdriver for two clicks with the tailgate open, while the interior doors are closed (make sure the door limit switches are in working order, if any, taking into account the configuration), and the hood is closed (make sure the limit switch is in good condition if it is included in the package), dismantle the trunk lock and check the limit switch circuit along the circuit of pins No. 1 – 2 for opening when the lock is closed.
If the lock's limit switch does not open the circuit at pin No. 1–2 when closing it, replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.
If there is no closed circuit at pins No. 1–2 when opening the lock, also replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.
3. If the lock is in good working order after carrying out diagnostics according to point 2, and the defect “the light is on in the trunk” is absent when the lock is manually closed with two clicks on the open tailgate, but the defect is present when the tailgate is actually closed, while the door is in the gaps has no deviations relative to the body, and it is impossible to determine visually how many clicks the tailgate lock is closed; it is necessary to adjust the door lock latch.
Let us remind you that you will find other instructions for self-repairing Grants in this section.
Source
Review of Manufacturer Prices
| Name/article | Price, rub.) |
| electric lock 2191-5606010-10 | from 1500 |
| 2191-5606452 | |
| 2191-5605789-00 | —/— |
| 2191-5603652 | —/— |
| 2191-5604521 | —/— |
| Vartex 56526454 | from 1700 |
| Apollo 54654 | —/— |
| FX-F 82665/22 | —/— |
| Monado fd515545 | —/— |
*prices are current as of 10/09/18.
The opinions of the service station masters agreed on the choice of manufacturer - there is not much difference. When purchasing original products, the service life of the equipment exceeds 5 years.
Installation in “makeshift” conditions and poor-quality manufacturing only shorten the period of use of the equipment. Often the owner is to blame for the breakdown, violating the vehicle maintenance regulations.
Rear suspension design
In order to determine what could be knocking in the suspension, you should know what this element of the car consists of.
A sound in the rear suspension may appear when one of the above elements fails. At the same time, we note that if there is a constant knocking, it is imperative to carry out diagnostics of the suspension. If working with a car causes many problems, then you can entrust the diagnostics to specialists from a car service center. Note that the rear suspension has a very simple design and you can dismantle the worn part yourself.
Possible causes not related to suspension
Before determining what might be knocking, you should make sure that there is a problem with the suspension. Often, a knock may appear due to a minor malfunction of another element, but with strong vibration on the road, it seems that the problem is with the chassis elements. Possible causes of knocking include the following:
Sequence of actions for self-installation of an electric lock
- We place the machine within the perimeter of the repair area; you can use a flat platform with unobstructed access around the perimeter. A road overpass or inspection channel in this case is not so effective, since the driver is limited in movement.
- Open the luggage compartment lid, unscrew the two mounting screws, and remove the inner part of the plastic trim.
- We connect the block with two wires (“plus” and “minus”). “Mass” is black. We pack the cables in a corrugated cable, lay it along the inner cavity of the trunk lid, and lead it out into the technical hole.
- We run the wiring in the corrugation under the side decorative inserts and lower it into the lower channel. First remove the plastic covers and sound insulation.
- We go to the fuse block, namely to fuse No. 10A.
- Next, we install a four-pin relay, connect the terminals of the wires from the trunk, fuse and mechanical button. We power the minus from the radio.
- We install a mechanical button instead of a plug under the optics regulator (hydraulic corrector).
- We assemble the casing and check that the system is working properly.
Trunk lid rattling
If we consider the rear door of the car, which closes the luggage compartment, then it is attached at three points:
The door obviously cannot rattle in the upper hinges. It remains to look for the reason in the castle. On modern cars, the closing elements of the lock are covered with plastic. Therefore, the trunk doors rattle less in these places. On cars of earlier releases, all parts are metal without any coating.
The knocking sound occurs due to the fact that when the rear door is closed, a small gap remains between the lock parts and the fixing element on the body.
When the car moves, especially on a bad road with uneven surfaces, the door moves and the lock latch hits the locking element on the body. As a result, a knock is heard from the rear of the car - this is the trunk rattling, and specifically the trunk lid.
How to find the cause of the sound and fix the problem, you ask? If you don’t improve anything, then nothing. But car owners use different tricks and give their “experienced advice.” For example, some drivers wrap 2-3 layers of regular electrical tape around the body clamp. As a result, the gap after closing the door decreases or disappears altogether.
Of course, electrical tape will not solve the problem forever, since when moving it is affected by the lock, and it becomes unusable. But if you rarely open the trunk, then for a month or two you will get rid of the problem and drive in silence.
In addition, on the sides of the door from below it is supported by two rubber buffers, which can be twisted and extended. Therefore, you need to adjust the length of the buffers so that they support the door sufficiently when closing it. If adjusted correctly, electrical tape may not be needed.
Reviews
| № | Positive |
| 1. | Vasily: I bought a Lada Granta Liftback in the “Standard” configuration, the mechanical button is not preinstalled. Since I'm very familiar with electricians, I installed it myself in half an hour. Now everything is working properly, there are no complaints. |
| 2. | Vladislav: my garage comrades recommended connecting an activation button. I first looked at the diagram and bought the necessary spare parts. I installed it a month ago with a friend. My advice to car enthusiasts. |
| 3. | Ivan: I knew from the very beginning that there was no button in the Norma configuration. After the purchase, I immediately installed it at the service station. The guys completed it in half an hour and gave a guarantee. It works properly and has never failed. |
| 4. | Vladimir: installed a mechanical button on the trunk lid, now you don’t need to turn off the engine again or pull the core. The process is not complicated, the diagram is intuitive. |
| 5. | Ignat: last month I installed the “activator”, I didn’t go to the service station, I got by with the help of a friend. It works properly, no complaints. |
| Negative | |
| 1. | Kirill: After installation, the activator worked for two months, after which it was replaced with a new one. Despite the originality of the part, the workmanship is poor. I do not recommend domestic electric locks. |
| 2. | Victor: I regretted installing the electric drive and flew within three months. This is despite the fact that there was moderate exploitation. I can't recommend it. |
| 3. | Vladimir: after a year of use, the limiter broke down, replaced it with a new one. I don't know how long it will last. |
Conclusion
In the Lada Granta “Norma” and “Standard” trim levels, a mechanical button for activating the trunk lid is missing. Provided you follow the installation algorithm and purchase original consumables and spare parts, the service life of the relay will exceed 5 years.
Cheap components for the lock, violation of installation technology, short circuit in the circuit contribute to rapid wear and damage to the mechanism. A number of negative reviews are unfounded; the damage was caused by the driver.
| Video - Lada Granta connecting and installing the button and trunk opening mechanism |
| Video - Lada Granta trunk button |
Is it necessary to install a negative cable into the interior of the car? Can I get power from the rear lights and side lights? This will save two meters of wire.
What is important to know about silent locks on the Lada Granta Liftback
Not all car owners are satisfied with the ease and noise level when closing the doors of their car. The defect is caused by excessive wear of parts and design flaws at the manufacturer level.
The principle of noise suppression is implemented by an installed noise absorber. In Lada Granta Liftback models, this is a rubber insert or a plastic polymer.
Silent locks are structurally composed of a pin and a shackle with a noise-absorbing insert. Some car owners practice replacing the arms, while leaving the standard locks unchanged. Already in this case, the noise level will be significantly lower, and locking the door will be easier.
At the same time, systematic use of the door lock leads to rapid wear of the polymer/rubber material. The owner has to come back for preventative maintenance again and again.
