Where is the trunk limit switch for the Grant sedan?

The site allows you to answer your request for a trunk limit switch for the Lada Granta sedan - go here. Videos and reviews on do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair. How to repair a car yourself at home. We will help you with repairs and repair the car yourself. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I have attached video instructions.

Category: Car repair yourself

Laughter on topic: When asked about chemistry, what can I say about salt molecules, I answer: “They go well with cucumber molecules.”

Published by Admin: at the request of Dzhokhar

Feedback from a car owner: 1. Dynamics and acceleration. Especially on the highway after 120 km/h.2. Handling on R17 wheels with good tires.3. Impenetrable suspension. But it’s a bit harsh, especially with R17 and for rear passengers.4. Stability control system. Forgives most mistakes in choosing speed. It’s a shame that it’s not available in current trim levels.5. Active antenna allows you to pick up radio on long trips

And so, after a trial installation of the front right door limit switch, I found out where and how the trunk is connected. The answer turned out to be as simple as shelling pears, the switch is in the lock, the wire is in the light bulb and in the alarm unit. When installing the alarm, the “master” apparently decided that the trunk was an extra waste and put a bolt... I, in turn, squirming under the steering wheel, found the alarm unit and the wire that was responsible for the trunk lock - this wire is orange-white. Everything is very simple:

And for one thing, I decided to put a permanent plus on the light bulb, took it from the radio (yellow wire), so that it would light up when the trunk is opened, regardless of whether the dimensions are on or not.

The wires were pulled along the floor using a standard harness that went straight into the trunk. The positive wire took 5m straight, a little less for the end switch. Now I’m calm about all the doors with locks =) The hood switch is there, but I don’t understand whether it’s connected or not, the wire from it goes into the corrugation, I set the car to alarm with the hood open, after activation I pressed the switch, zero emotions, maybe it’s necessary It was easy to just unlatch the hood and then lift it... If anyone knows, please sign up. I'll try it later with the hood unlocked.

How to diagnose the trunk door lock of a Lada Granta liftback

During the operation of Lada Granta liftbacks, owners may encounter a situation where, while driving, the door open indicator lights up on the instrument cluster. Or, when the fifth door is closed, the light in the trunk is on and the car cannot be set to alarm. To identify the causes of these malfunctions, LADA dealership centers use information letter No. 87-19 “On diagnostics of the tailgate lock of Lada Granta liftback cars.”

The diagnostic technique is as follows

:

1. Open the tailgate (the trunk light is on), note that in this case a two-position lock 21910-6305010-10 (84500-02338) is used.

2. With the door open, manually close the lock 2 clicks using a screwdriver with a diameter of up to 6 mm, moving it beyond sector “B”. Closing the lock by 2 clicks is shown by the levers “A” located at the right point of movement until it stops according to the photo below:

Check that there is a guaranteed gap between the emergency trunk release lever and the inner panel of the tailgate. The gap should be from 0.3 mm to 0.9 mm.

If there is no guaranteed gap between the lever and the door panel, or the lever is jammed, with the formation of rubbing on the lock lever, it is necessary to remove the lock to modify the plane of the plastic lever. Using a mechanic's tool, remove 0.5 mm of the width of the lever to eliminate harmful contact causing blocking of the lever and blocking of the limit switch.

If, after carrying out the above actions, the lighting in the trunk when closing the trunk lock manually with a screwdriver for two clicks with the tailgate open, while the interior doors are closed (make sure the door limit switches are in working order, if any, taking into account the configuration), and the hood is closed (make sure the limit switch is in good condition if it is included in the package), dismantle the trunk lock and check the limit switch circuit along the circuit of pins No. 1 – 2 for opening when the lock is closed.

If the lock's limit switch does not open the circuit at pin No. 1–2 when closing it, replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.

If there is no closed circuit at pins No. 1–2 when opening the lock, also replace the lock and consider the lock to be a defective part.

3. If the lock is in good working order after carrying out diagnostics according to point 2, and the defect “the light is on in the trunk” is absent when the lock is manually closed with two clicks on the open tailgate, but the defect is present when the tailgate is actually closed, while the door is in the gaps has no deviations relative to the body, and it is impossible to determine visually how many clicks the tailgate lock is closed; it is necessary to adjust the door lock latch.

Let us remind you that you will find other instructions for self-repairing Grants in this section.

Methods for solving problems with door limit switches

We will look at a number of fairly simple ways to solve the problems described above, which every car owner can easily put into practice. Thus, if problems arise caused by the operation of limit switches in the winter months, you can resort to the following methods:

• Remove the anthers from the limit switches. Remember that these rubber caps serve a protective function, and therefore when removing them you will have to be very careful about cleanliness. It is recommended to remove the anthers only for a short time, in frosty weather outside.
• Replace the “original” caps with analogues. Anthers from other end caps, for example, Toprun, which are practically a copy of the original Granta caps, are suitable as analogues. However, these anthers are made from materials that do not lose their elasticity at sub-zero temperatures, which is their undoubted advantage. You do not need to change the end switches themselves, only the caps should be replaced.
• Install a spring under the switch boot. For this purpose, springs with a length of approximately 18-20 mm and a diameter of 12-13 mm with a wire thickness of 1 mm can be used. They need to be installed on the limit switch rod, directly under the anthers. A good spring will not allow the cap to be constantly in a compressed state and will not let you down even at a temperature of -40C.
• Lubricate all rubber surfaces with silicone, this will help in relatively mild frosts (about -10C or less).
• Treat the surface with a water-repellent liquid. This measure works in a fairly wide temperature range (up to -50C), but is purely temporary.

Review and installation of limit switches on the Lada Granta Liftback. Recommendations from experts

The Lada Granta Liftback car in the “Standard” configuration is equipped with only one limit switch at the driver’s door. The remaining three doors have built-in rubber plugs.

The “Norma” configuration has a similar arrangement, but the owner can additionally install limit switches on the Grant Liftback independently. To do this, first remove the decorative inserts on the thresholds. Only the “Lux” configuration provides a full set of functional limit switches for four doors.

The operating principle is as follows:

• when the driver's door is activated, the limit switch contacts open, the indicator on the dashboard lights up, and the interior lighting turns on;
• When the remaining three doors are activated, only the interior lamp lights up.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are current as of 10/07/18.

The service life of factory rubber caps is limited, only 1.5 - 2 years. The reason lies in the low quality of materials. In winter, drivers often encounter freezing of the limit switch and hardening of the rubber cap. As a result, lighting activation is delayed. The central lock often blocks the doors due to unstable operation of the limit switch. There are several ways to troubleshoot the problem, which we will discuss below.

Door switches on Lada Granta Liftback

Structurally, each limit switch is located in the lower right corner of the doorway. As soon as the door opens, the contacts open and a signal is transmitted to the dashboard and interior lighting unit.

Freezing of the rubber tip contributes to the hardening of the cap and unstable operation of the door activation mechanism. To maximize the service life of rubber tips, they are periodically lubricated with silicone grease to maintain (increase) elasticity. Fixation to the body is carried out using spacer clamps made of plastic. When the base is inserted into the socket, the clamps expand, preventing the base from moving freely.

To connect the sensor to the power circuit, two terminals “+” and “-” are connected to the wires coming from the interior lighting. Be sure to observe polarity! As a rule, “plus” is indicated by red insulation, and “minus” by white with a black stripe.

Where is the trunk limit switch of the Lada Granta Liftback

The trunk lid activation sensor is located on the left side, closer to the lamp. However, it is installed only in the “Lux” configuration. Rubber plugs are inserted into “Standard” and “Norma”.

In order to prevent sudden activation of the central locking and door locking, owners optionally install sensors. Considering the simplicity of the procedure, you can do this either independently or by contacting a service station for help from specialists. After installing the trunk end switch into the seat, we lay and connect the electrical wiring. “Plus” is powered from the side lights of the lamp, “minus” can be from the body or on the block with wires. Black with a white stripe is “minus”, red is “plus”.

In the Luxury package, the sensor is built into the trunk lid lock by default. When the lid is closed, the sensor automatically turns off the power from the light.

Preparatory stage

• impact screwdriver;
• cross bits;
• pliers;
• plastic clips in case of damage to the standard ones;
• liquid for removing rust and corrosion;
• a new lock, the modification is chosen individually by the owner.

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

1. We install the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide unobstructed access around the perimeter.
2. We take priority safety measures when carrying out work. We fix the rear row of wheels with wheel chocks and engage first gear to avoid arbitrary movement.
3. Open the driver's door, use an impact screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the shackle to the car body, and remove it from its seat. We install a new shackle with soundproofing material.
4. Let's start removing the constipation: unscrew the plastic float and remove the stem.
5. We unscrew the car door card, two screws, eight plastic clips around the perimeter.
6. We disconnect the block with wires from the double-glazed window control unit, speakers, and central locking.
7. From the outside, unscrew the three screws that secure the lock body to the door.
8. We remove the two rods, having first disconnected them with pliers.
9. We carry out preventive maintenance, clean the seat, remove old grease, and apply a thin layer of new one.
10. Let's start installing the new lock.
11. We assemble the structure in the reverse order, unless there are other breakdowns that require surgical intervention or elimination.

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones.

Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

• tightness of locking the door;
• increased noise when opening/closing;
• the central lock does not lock the door and does not respond to signals;
• unlocking is accompanied by a creaking, metallic grinding sound;
• While driving, the door vibrates, cracks are visible in the places of contact with the standard seal.

Common Causes of Premature Wear

• failure to comply with the deadlines for technical inspection, preventative maintenance, lubrication, and replacement of worn elements;
• third-party mechanical damage resulting in deformation of the door or lock;
• manufacturing defects at the factory;
• the lock has become loose due to loosening of the fastening;
• violation of the adjustment algorithm;
• human factor: systematically locking the door with force.

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

1. We place the car on a level platform and provide access to the trunk lid.
2. We take safety measures when carrying out work.
3. We unscrew two screws and remove part of the lower plastic trim of the trunk lid.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the lock body to the trunk lid;
5. Using pliers, remove the rod from the button to the body.
6. We remove the constipation, carry out preventive maintenance, lubricate the threads and the rod end.
7. We install a new lock and assemble the structure in the reverse order.
8. We unscrew two screws, remove the standard shackle, install a new one with sound-insulating material.

Replacing the hood lock

1. Inside the car, under the dashboard, there is a hood release lever. We pull it towards ourselves.
2. Release the latch and lift the hood.
3. Using a TORX key set to “10”, unscrew the two screws holding the lock body to the body.
4. Using pliers, remove the cable eye from the seat.
5. We remove the lock, install a new one in its place, and assemble the structure again.
6. Lubricate the bow-clamp with silicone grease/solid oil.

Sequence of actions for self-installation of limit switches on the Lada Granta Liftback

• silicone grease;
• rags;
• rubber tips;
• screwdriver with a flat bit.

Replacing door switches

1. Remove the rubber tip.
2. Use a screwdriver to pry up the sensor housing and remove it from its seat.
3. From the back side, remove the block with wires.
4. We install a new sensor.
5. We assemble the structure in reverse order.

Replacing the trunk limit switch

1. Open the luggage compartment lid.
2. Remove the rubber protective cap from the sensor.
3. We take out the limit switch, remove the block with wires.
4. We install a new sensor and complete the assembly of the structure.

Preparatory stage

• impact screwdriver;
• cross bits;
• pliers;
• plastic clips in case of damage to the standard ones;
• liquid for removing rust and corrosion;
• a new lock, the modification is chosen individually by the owner.

Procedure for independently replacing the driver's door lock on a Lada Granta Liftback

1. We install the car within the perimeter of the repair area and provide unobstructed access around the perimeter.
2. We take priority safety measures when carrying out work. We fix the rear row of wheels with wheel chocks and engage first gear to avoid arbitrary movement.
3. Open the driver's door, use an impact screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the shackle to the car body, and remove it from its seat. We install a new shackle with soundproofing material.
4. Let's start removing the constipation: unscrew the plastic float and remove the stem.
5. We unscrew the car door card, two screws, eight plastic clips around the perimeter.
6. We disconnect the block with wires from the double-glazed window control unit, speakers, and central locking.
7. From the outside, unscrew the three screws that secure the lock body to the door.
8. We remove the two rods, having first disconnected them with pliers.
9. We carry out preventive maintenance, clean the seat, remove old grease, and apply a thin layer of new one.
10. Let's start installing the new lock.
11. We assemble the structure in the reverse order, unless there are other breakdowns that require surgical intervention or elimination.

During the installation process, we pay attention to the integrity of the electrical wiring, insulating layer, terminals, and blocks with wires. If there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones.

Do not operate the machine with faulty electrical wiring.

Typical door lock malfunctions

• tightness of locking the door;
• increased noise when opening/closing;
• the central lock does not lock the door and does not respond to signals;
• unlocking is accompanied by a creaking, metallic grinding sound;
• While driving, the door vibrates, cracks are visible in the places of contact with the standard seal.

Common Causes of Premature Wear

• failure to comply with the deadlines for technical inspection, preventative maintenance, lubrication, and replacement of worn elements;
• third-party mechanical damage resulting in deformation of the door or lock;
• manufacturing defects at the factory;
• the lock has become loose due to loosening of the fastening;
• violation of the adjustment algorithm;
• human factor: systematically locking the door with force.

The defect is eliminated by replacing the constipation assembly.

Replacing the rear (passenger) door lock

The procedure for preventing locking of the front/rear passenger door is carried out by analogy. The design and method of fixation are typical.

Installing a trunk lock on Lada Granta Liftback

1. We place the car on a level platform and provide access to the trunk lid.
2. We take safety measures when carrying out work.
3. We unscrew two screws and remove part of the lower plastic trim of the trunk lid.
4. Unscrew the two screws securing the lock body to the trunk lid;
5. Using pliers, remove the rod from the button to the body.
6. We remove the constipation, carry out preventive maintenance, lubricate the threads and the rod end.
7. We install a new lock and assemble the structure in the reverse order.
8. We unscrew two screws, remove the standard shackle, install a new one with sound-insulating material.

Replacing the hood lock

1. Inside the car, under the dashboard, there is a hood release lever. We pull it towards ourselves.
2. Release the latch and lift the hood.
3. Using a TORX key set to “10”, unscrew the two screws holding the lock body to the body.
4. Using pliers, remove the cable eye from the seat.
5. We remove the lock, install a new one in its place, and assemble the structure again.
6. Lubricate the bow-clamp with silicone grease/solid oil.

How to extend the service life of the door activation sensor using the traditional method

Craftsmen have come up with many ways to resuscitate a rubber cap, prevent it from deforming and freezing. We present the most effective methods:

• insert for the rubber tip of the spring. The diameter of the coil is “6”, the length is 1.0 cm. When the door is opened, the spring pushes the tip to its original position, the contacts close, the interior lighting is activated;
• replacement of standard caps with parts from the second generation Opel Astra. The dimensions are identical, the only difference is in the shape, it is more convex, which contributes to the sensor’s quick response to opening/closing the door;
• systematic application of silicone lubricant to a rubber product to restore elasticity.

Troubleshooting

Drivers may encounter various types of malfunctions. Even though the sensor is protected, it is not as reliable as the manufacturers claim. In addition to silicone lubricant, other measures can be used:

1. Install the spring under the rubber cover. If this element is elastic, it will protect the mechanism even at very low temperatures.
2. Remove the protective caps for the winter, but there is a danger that the element will quickly become clogged with dust and dirt.
3. Treat with protective liquid.

Often drivers replace their original limit switch with a part from another manufacturer or install a boot. In this case, the body of the new element is inserted into the standard connector and secured with a self-tapping screw.

Reviews

Conclusion Limit switches on a car should always be in good working order. Provided proper maintenance and lubrication, the service life is at least two years. It is necessary to regularly analyze the condition of the limit switches in order to notice and prevent malfunctions in time. You should also adhere to the operating instructions.

Video - Lada Granta - door switches freeze? 3 solutions to the problem.

Connection points for car alarms on Lada Granta, the cheapest equipment

Ignition switch: +12 – brown ign1 – blue/black starter – red

Instrument panel: turns – blue and blue/black handbrake – brown/blue (diode breaks)

Driver's threshold: driver's limit switch - red/green, we connect the rest of the doors to it

Under the hood: Tahoe - white/black on the ignition module, the hood tip is in its normal place

Trunk limit switch – we install the connector on the trunk (the limit switch is already in the lock).

central locking .

Car alarm connection points for Lada Granta 2012

Ignition switch: + 12V - pink IGN_1 - blue Start - red

Left threshold: Turns - blue and blue/black Fuel pump - gray Driver's limit switch - red/green Handbrake - brown/blue

Tidy: Driver's limit switch - red/green Handbrake - brown/blue

Central locking - install an electric drive in the driver's door, if there is no electric drive in the door Trunk - white/black; harness in the trunk (install a diode) Tachometer - brown/red; In the configuration, the standard can be taken on the electric power steering unit

If the car has painted bumpers (standard equipment), then there is no need to install an additional activator; we connect pins 2 and 7 on the door lock using a power circuit. The locks on the doors are Kalinovsky, the activator is built inside, but the wires are not routed.

There is only a driver's door switch. The rest need to be installed and connected to the driver's limit switch, i.e. to red/green in the threshold. The limit switches are the same as the engine compartment on the Priora. The limit switches will have to be taken with a connector and wiring.

Open

Catalog numbers:
1118-3710199
— End switch assembly with cap.
11190-3710200
(analogue
80.3710
) - End switch.
11190-3710206-00
— Protective rubber cap.

Appearance

Instead of original switches, it is possible to install limit switches from other manufacturers, purchased from exist.ru - article number
104 035 756
(or analogues).

To connect the missing limit switches, you need to purchase a connector for the door switch 2115 (you can also use the connectors of the VAZ 2110 crankshaft position sensor). The second option is the reverse lock connector 1118 (AX-331)

Opening pin 2, closing pin 7 or vice versa? Or does it matter?

PS A short report on connecting limit switches in locks. Maybe it will be useful to someone. I won’t write about the front ones - everything is simple there, you don’t need to remove the locks, the latch opens easily with your hands, the connector can be removed almost by itself. That didn't work out for me with the rear ones. Firstly, I didn’t understand by touch where the latch was, and there was no photo. In short, I removed the lock, this is, in principle, not a troublesome matter. This is what the connector looks like in real life. Right rear door. The latch (or rather the bracket) is located on the outside of the lock, here it is in the open state. In principle, it’s impossible to open it with your finger inside the door, in my opinion, it’s too tight. So either some kind of device is needed, or the lock needs to be removed. On the left door it is mirrored. There was also a surprise waiting for me in the left door. The two wires that go to the speaker, and which are convenient to use to connect the end switch, are one color inside the door, and a different color when passing into the rack. At this moment I was a little dumbfounded when I didn’t find any wires in the harness in the threshold.)) In the door there are green-black and green-yellow, and in the threshold they are respectively white-blue and pink-blue (or blue, it’s not very clear).

Images

I was looking for limit switches, but I couldn’t find them, either without rubber bands, or there were no chips with wires. I took the limit switches from the classics.

I paralleled everything together and connected it to the driver's limit switch (red-green wire)

Good evening! A very interesting forum, I’ve been reading the topics for several weeks, thinking for a long time about the security system, etc., but we’ll talk about limit switches. I want to install Sigu Starline B9 myself, I haven’t done it yet. The car from the signature is a minimally equipped liftback (standard), very pleased. It has 1) no limit switches at all, there are plugs on all doors, 2) polite interior lighting is implemented when the driver's door is opened, 3) there is a central locking system. Do I understand correctly that the function of the limit switch is performed by the water door lock? Is it possible to connect the rest of the doors (locks) in a similar way (when opening the light came on, without additional limit switches? If not, is it better to take the “native” limit switches from Grant or from other manufacturers? (The metal buttons on the Accent have been working perfectly for 9 years) . Tell me the part number of the motor and the button for the trunk, please. And is it necessary to run additional wires for the solenoid into the trunk door? Did I understand correctly that there is no need to install a limit switch on the trunk, its function can be performed by the trunk lock? (wiring diagram for the electric lock) please share) And confirm that to turn on the luggage compartment lighting, you must pull an additional wire from the dashboard. Is there really no other way to connect? And there are plans to install a rear view camera with a multimedia system. Please advise how many additional wires and what cross-section extend it in advance, along with the limit switch, into the luggage compartment. And where exactly are the acoustics placed back? I saw potential seats in the front doors, but I can’t imagine where in the back (this is all about the question of the trunk limit switch wires. And if you disassemble the doors to install limit switches, is it possible to immediately (even crookedly) apply a layer of sound insulation.