The appearance of puddles of coolant in the car’s interior makes the owner wonder where the valve for the VAZ-2115 heater is located. In the vast majority of cases, this unpleasant symptom occurs precisely because of the leakage of this part. To replace a faucet, it is absolutely not necessary to go to a car service center - this procedure is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge or skills.
The heater valve in car 2115 is located at the bottom of the dashboard. You can reach it from the passenger seat. At the same time, to replace a part, you do not have to disassemble half of the machine, since access to it is almost completely open.
What is needed to replace the heater valve on a VAZ-2115 car
If a faucet is leaking, it must be replaced as soon as possible. Otherwise, the coolant can seriously flood the entire cabin. In such a situation, you will not only need to make repairs, but also spend quite a lot of time cleaning the car.
What is needed to replace the stove faucet? You only need a few tools and supplies:
- set of socket and socket wrenches;
- Screwdriver Set;
- new part. It is best to choose modern ceramic taps, which are equipped with all the necessary sealing elements;
- WD-40 liquid;
- silicone sealant ensuring reliable sealing of the system;
- any container into which you will drain coolant.
It is best to carry out car repairs in a pit or using a lift - this way you can get free access to all the parts.
What will be needed for repairs?
Please note that replacing the VAZ 2114 stove can be done in 2 ways: with removing the dashboard and without dismantling the dashboard. Professionals prefer the first method
That is, master mechanics of any service station replace the radiator with a 2114, having first disassembled the top down to the screw. Only someone who has already assembled and disassembled the dashboard with their own hands can handle this work. There are a lot of subtleties and nuances.
Speaking for us, we will replace the VAZ 2114 stove radiator without removing the dashboard.
But again, only highly qualified craftsmen can qualitatively change the design of the machine. We won't interfere there, out of harm's way.
For this job we will need:
- Screwdriver Set
- A set of keys
- A pair of new clamps for the diameter of the radiator pipes
- New radiator. By the way, it’s better to take something imported, for example, Fenox RO0004C3 (it costs twice as much as the original)
- New antifreeze for the heating system
By the way, pay attention to the article about the advantages and disadvantages of various types of radiators. Now let's look at the question of how to replace a VAZ 2114 stove without removing the panel (only the radiator)
Now let's look at the question of how to replace a VAZ 2114 stove without removing the panel (only the radiator).
The process of replacing the stove valve on a VAZ-2115
First, completely drain the antifreeze into a previously prepared container to avoid leaks during the process of dismantling a leaky faucet. After completing this procedure, the following steps will be required:
- loosen the clamps securing the pipes that connect the engine to the heater tap;
- We clean the pipes using a metal brush and treat them with WD-40 liquid. This simple step will allow you to unscrew the old part without any problems;
- unscrew the nuts that secure the faucet. To do this you need to use a key of 10;
- We move into the car interior and, slightly pulling the part towards ourselves, remove the special spring retainer;
- disconnect the valve from the control cable and remove it;
- We connect the cable to the new part, install the spring clamp in place and screw the tap to the pipes.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. When connecting a new faucet, be sure to use silicone sealant that is resistant to coolant, and also screw the drain plug into place. At the last stage, fill in antifreeze and check the operation of the system.
Stages of self-repair
What to do if the fan on the VAZ 2114 (2115,2113) does not work?
After watching the video on replacing the heater valve on a VAZ 2115, you can familiarize yourself with all the stages of work and begin to carry them out, following the following instructions:
The car is placed indoors, and with a cold engine, the coolant is drained through a special technical plug into a container provided for this purpose. The drain plug is located at the bottom of the crankcase housing on the front side of the machine. The front passenger seat is moved back to the maximum possible distance, then the shelf in the lower part of the dashboard, located under the glove compartment, is dismantled, which will provide access to the fastening of the side decorative trim of the lower part of the center console. By unscrewing the five screws securing the side trim, we gain access to the heating system pipes and to the faucet itself
Having loosened the clamps of the pipes, we proceed to carefully remove them, placing an old rag on the floor, on which the remaining antifreeze may spill. Important! Keep in mind that the seats on the heater radiator are plastic, and when exposed to high temperatures, the pipes may sour a little on them, so their dismantling must be carried out very carefully, otherwise you can break the radiator housing with excessive efforts.
From the engine compartment of the car, we remove the two coolant supply pipes on the heater tap, unscrew, using a 10 mm wrench, the two fastening nuts on its studs, after which we dismantle the old part from the interior, having previously disconnected the damper control cable. A new faucet is installed on the seat, we tighten the fastening nuts, and we treat the seats of the cooling system pipes with sealant, put them on carefully and tighten them with metal ties. We clean the seats on the heater radiator, treat them with sealant, as well as on the faucet itself, install new pipes for supplying antifreeze to the car's heating system, and then tighten the clamps on them. We reinstall the decorative side panel and the additional shelf under the glove compartment, tighten the engine cooling fluid drain plug, and then proceed to remove air from the system. We remove the plug from the expansion tank on the engine intake manifold, disconnect the antifreeze supply pipe and pour new liquid into the cooling system until it begins to flow out of both the manifold and the pipe, which we immediately reattach.
At this point, the do-it-yourself work on replacing the heater valve on a VAZ 2115 is completed, we start the car’s engine, carefully inspect the tightness of the cooling system, check the heat supply to the cabin and the functionality of the damper for switching between summer and winter modes, and if no problems are found, the vehicle can be started to operate . Also watch the video of installing a heater valve on a VAZ 2115 (similar work is carried out on models 2113, 2114):
How to choose the right stove tap
Finally, we would like to give some useful recommendations on choosing a heater tap for your car. The modern market offers several varieties of these devices:
- The simplest option is a crane installed at the car manufacturer. It is built on a membrane element made of rubber, which often cannot withstand elevated temperatures and “sticks.” The solution to this problem is to replace the product. This is why it is better not to buy factory taps;
- a ball valve, which will cost much more than a membrane valve, but will also last much longer;
- ceramic device. The best option, which is deservedly considered the most reliable and durable. To make the body of such a faucet, a metal or polymer material that is resistant to overheating is used, and a pair of ceramic plates is used as a locking element.
Which faucet to choose for the VAZ-2115 stove? We recommend not saving on purchasing this part and choosing the most durable option. This will avoid frequent replacement and save a very decent amount of money.
Steam is coming from the stove
Sometimes steam starts coming out of the stove. The reason for this is a leak in the heater core. The leaking coolant hits the hot radiator housing and begins to quickly evaporate, and the smell of antifreeze appears in the cabin. To fix the problem, you will need to disassemble the stove and replace the heat exchanger.
Sometimes white steam comes from under the hood and enters the cabin. This happens when antifreeze gets on the hot manifold or exhaust system pants. In this case, you will need to find the location of the leak and fix it. The most common cause is damaged pipes.
Purpose of the heating valve on the VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115
First, it should be said that the VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115 cars are equipped with exactly the same heating valves, the design of which has not changed since the VAZ 2108. The purpose of the stove valve is to regulate the flow of antifreeze entering the small heating radiator. The tap can be switched so that the coolant flows through a large cooling circle (this is done in the cold season) or through a small cooling circle (the tap switches to this mode in the summer).
The VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115 have exactly the same stove taps
Heating tap location
On almost all VAZ cars, the stove valve is located under the central panel, on the passenger side. To replace this device, the panel will have to be removed by unscrewing several screws. The tap is always connected to a pair of rubber pipes held in place by steel clamps.
On the VAZ 2115 and VAZ 2113, the heating taps are located under the central panel on the passenger side
It should also be noted here that before removing the tap, it is always recommended to completely drain the antifreeze from the system. However, an experienced driver can dismantle the faucet without draining the antifreeze (but for a beginner this option is too complicated, so it will not be discussed below).
Modernization methods
Experienced drivers prefer to remove the short-lived heater valve from the system, replacing it with a pair of fittings. During warmer times, a regular water tap is often installed instead (it is recommended to take an Italian one).
Drivers often prefer fittings to the heater valve
The advantage of such modernization is the increased reliability of the heating system. The downside is the inconvenience: to open the tap, you have to crawl under the hood.
Owners of 110 series cars (which include the VAZ 2114) should know that the tap in the heating system is a short-lived thing. Changing it is not difficult - you can do this procedure yourself, without using special tools.
Heating tap malfunctions and their causes
There are a number of breakdowns typical of VAZ heating taps. Here they are:
- oxidation. The VAZ heater valve begins to leak due to severe oxidation. It happens like this: in winter the tap is constantly open, antifreeze flows in a large circle, heating the interior. In the spring there is no need for this; the tap is closed and remains in the closed position for 3–5 months. During this time, he manages to literally stick to the pipe. So you can only open it again with the help of pliers. Of course, the tightness of the tap is then broken and a leak occurs;
Antifreeze on a VAZ 2113 flows through the tap directly onto the passenger mat - jamming. The heating valve on a VAZ car, like any other device, can simply exhaust its life and some of its parts will break, making it impossible to close and open the device;
- cracking of pipes and loosening of clamps. The furnace tap pipes are made of rubber, which cracks over time (this happens especially quickly if the machine is constantly operated at low temperatures). The steel clamps that secure the pipes to the faucet gradually weaken due to so-called metal fatigue. All this leads to antifreeze leaks, which are visible both in the cabin, under the passenger’s feet, and on the ground under the car.
Rubber pipes of VAZ stove taps often crack in the cold
Features of choosing a heating valve for VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115
After a faucet breaks down, the car owner will have to replace it. And here a completely logical question arises: which faucet should I buy as a replacement? Let us list the main types of furnace taps and consider their pros and cons:
- membrane furnace valve. It is this type of valve that is installed at the factory on almost all VAZ cars, including the VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115. The reliability of membrane valves is extremely low, and as mentioned above, they are highly susceptible to oxidation. For this reason, it is not recommended to buy a replacement membrane faucet, despite its low price, which starts at 200 rubles;
- ball valve It is more expensive than the membrane one (the cost starts from 500 rubles), but its reliability is also higher. At the same time, the ball valve is also made of metal, which means that the problem of oxidation does not disappear anywhere, so sooner or later the car owner will have to open this valve with pliers;
- ceramic faucet. The optimal and most expensive option (a good ceramic faucet can cost 1000–1500 rubles). The liquid in such a faucet is locked using a pair of ceramic plates pressed tightly against each other. The driver can forget about the problem of oxidation, since ceramics are inert. This crane is the best option out of all of the above, so if the car owner’s finances allow it, he should choose it.
The best option for the VAZ 2113 is a ceramic stove faucet
Find out how I changed the heater tap of a VAZ 2114 in 20 minutes
The stove valve in the car opens or blocks access to warm air into the car body, thereby regulating the heat supply to the cabin. Sometimes the heating and cooling system refuses to function properly, stops supplying heat, or supplies it in unlimited quantities. What this may be connected with and how to eliminate such malfunctions, you will find out below.
A working faucet is the key to a warm car interior
Why doesn't the stove tap work?
One of the reasons for a non-working faucet is souring. As a result of corrosion under the influence of chemical liquids, the flag loses its mobility, and the tap stops opening or closing. If this happened when the tap was open, then warm air will flow inside even when no one needs it.
Sometimes a failed heater faucet in a VAZ 2114 leads to air in the system, the stove does not heat, and cold air enters the cabin.
But the most common defect is a leaking stove tap. Antifreeze gets into the car body and stains the floor mats. In both the first and second cases, it is necessary to replace the VAZ 2114 heater valve.
If you find antifreeze under your feet, do not rush to immediately buy a new faucet. The leak can come from a burst pipe; even the heater radiator can leak. First, find out where the antifreeze is leaking from, and only then go to the auto parts store to make purchases.
Which faucet is better?
All owners of VAZ 2114, 2115 and other models unanimously claim that the original faucets that are equipped with the stoves of these cars are the most unreliable.
The locking mechanism is a rubber membrane. Aluminum housings are susceptible to corrosion and quickly turn sour. True, the price of these parts is low - 80-120 rubles.
Apparently, the price is calculated on the fact that the faucets will change every season.
Ceramic faucet is considered the most wear-resistant
But car owners don’t want to crawl under the car every time it gets cold, spoil their shoes with leaking antifreeze, and freeze inside the car. Yes, and this is a troublesome task - replacing the faucet on the VAZ 2114 stove. Therefore, motorists give preference to more reliable models of faucets:
- ceramic, their locking mechanism is made of ceramic plates, and the body is made of high-quality plastic;
- Ball valves, the locking element of which is a ball with holes.
Most VAZ 2114 owners prefer the Yavva ceramic faucet as one of the highest quality and most reliable. Although these models have lower heat transfer than ball models. The latter are susceptible to oxidation, but to a lesser extent than the duralumin models of AvtoVAZ cranes.
Tools for work
To change the heater valve on a VAZ 2114 you will need the following tools:
- Pliers,
- Double-sided screwdriver (straight and curved),
- Socket or socket wrenches No. 10 and 13.
And of course, you need a container for the coolant. Before you begin to disconnect the failed heater tap from the system, you need to drain the antifreeze from the radiator.
How to change the stove tap with your own hands?
You will need a pit to work with because the heater valve is located at the bottom of the hood, under the side trim on the passenger side. Replacing the stove valve on a VAZ 2114 is carried out in several stages:
- On the faucet, you need to brush the fasteners, rinse them with brake fluid, and leave them for a while so that the fluid cleans the threads on the studs and the nuts are easier to unscrew. To wash studs, it is better to use WD-40, if available. This is an important stage in the work, because rusted bolts can grab the nut so much that unscrewing them becomes problematic. Sometimes when unscrewing nuts, the bolts need to be held with an additional wrench or pliers.
- In the cabin, remove the side trim. Now you can see the pipes leading to the tap. Loosen the hose clamps and remove the hoses one by one. At the same time, keep a container with antifreeze near you, which you immediately place under the emptied pipes so that the remaining antifreeze flows out.
- If you decide to replace the hoses, they must also be released from the radiator. But if they are in satisfactory condition, then when you start assembling, you will only need sealant.
- Return to the pit and use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the nuts holding the tap in place.
- Go back to the body again and try to remove the heater valve of the VAZ 2114 towards the passenger seat. In this position, remove the lock and release the cable that controls the tap.
- Now you can install the new faucet. First put the cable on it, secure it with a spring clip, and only then can you screw it into place. Install O-rings between the valve and the body. Use sealant to secure the stove pipes in place. Don't forget to pour the antifreeze back into the radiator at the end.
Replacing the stove valve of the VAZ 2115, as well as the VAZ 2113, is carried out in the sequence described above. The design of the heater in these VAZ models is the same as that of the VAZ 2108.
The process of replacing a heating valve on a VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2115
Before starting work, you should decide on the tools and consumables. Here's what we need:
- working heating tap;
- open-end wrenches;
- socket wrenches;
- six-liter container with new antifreeze;
- container for old coolant (the best option is a small basin);
- flat screwdriver;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- pliers;
- rags.
Sequence of operations
- The machine is placed on an inspection hole or on an overpass. The wheels are securely fixed using wheel chocks. Then the plug under the main radiator is unscrewed, and the antifreeze begins to drain into a previously placed basin or bucket. It should be remembered that completely draining the antifreeze takes from 10 to 20 minutes.
It is convenient to pour antifreeze into a basin placed in advance - Under the hood you need to find two heating pipes. The pipes have steel clamps. The screws on the clamps are unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver, and the pipes are removed from the tubes manually.
The clamps on the external pipes of the VAZ 2113 are loosened with a screwdriver - In the cabin, on the passenger side, the side panel is removed, under which the heating tap pipes are located. To remove this panel, use a flat screwdriver and a 10-mm open-end wrench. After removing the panel, you will have access to the pipes, which are attached to the faucet with steel clamps. You will need a small flathead screwdriver to loosen these clamps.
To loosen the internal clamps on the VAZ 2113 tap pipes, you will have to remove the side panel - The other ends of the heating tap pipes are attached to the stove radiator. There are also two clamps there. They are loosened with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled off the radiator pipes by hand.
- As soon as the faucet is completely free from the pipes (both from the passenger compartment and from the engine side), you can proceed to unscrewing its fasteners. The stove faucet is held on two studs with nuts set to “10”. It is best to unscrew these nuts using a spanner wrench, since there is little space under the side panel.
It is convenient to unscrew the studs of the VAZ 2113 stove pump with a spanner wrench - After unscrewing both nuts, the valve can be removed from the mounting studs. But this must be done more carefully, because a rod is attached to the tap, which will also have to be disconnected.
- The cable rod of the heating tap is held on a steel clamp. To straighten it, you need to use pliers.
The rod of the VAZ 2113 stove pump is held on a clamp, which is unbent with pliers - Now the stove tap is removed from its niche, replaced with a new one, and then the heating system is assembled in the reverse order.
The VAZ 2113 stove pump is freed from drafts and pipes and can now be removed
Resistor fault
Despite the fairly simple design of the heater, some of its elements may fail over time. At the same time, the probability of failure of the heating system as a whole is quite small. The most common stove failures include:
- problems with the radiator;
- faucet leak;
- wear of pipes;
- resistor failure;
- switch malfunctions.
Let's look at each fault block in more detail.
As noted above, the resistor is designed to change the level of resistance of the current supplied from the generator to the heating system fan. In the VAZ-2114, using a switch, you can ensure the fan operates in three modes. In the extreme position, the fan is powered by a voltage equal to the nominal voltage of the vehicle's on-board network, providing maximum power output.
If the windings burn out, regardless of the switch position, the fan operates only at full power. The inability to switch fan operating modes is evidence of a resistor malfunction.
A faulty resistor may be indicated by the fan operating in one mode, when manipulations with the switch do not affect its blowing speed. To replace the resistor, you need to prepare a screwdriver with a Phillips head, fine-grain sandpaper and a multimeter. Algorithm of actions:
- disconnect the negative terminal of the battery;
- unscrew the screws that secure the right console cover;
- Use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws securing the right cover of the center console;
- you will have access to the resistor, from which you need to disconnect all the wiring and evaluate the contacts for burning. If the contact surface is oxidized, use sandpaper to clean it down to metal;
- It may well be that the resistor has lost its functionality precisely due to burning/oxidation of the contacts, so we assemble everything in the reverse order and check whether the fan will work in all normal modes;
- in case of a negative result, again remove the negative terminal, the panel cover and unscrew the screw that secures the resistor to the body;
- We remove the resistor and use a multimeter to measure the resistance at the resistor inputs and at the inputs of both windings. In the latter case, the indicator indicating the working condition of the additional elements is 0.2 Ohm. For the entire resistor, the standard resistance should be 0.8 ohms. If the multimeter readings do not match the specified values, replace the resistor with a new one, and then reassemble in the reverse order.
About modernizing the heating tap
As already mentioned, the stove valve on the VAZ is not very reliable. Therefore, some car enthusiasts take radical measures in order to rid themselves of antifreeze leaks once and for all. The simplest modernization option looks like this: an adapter tube is cut out of the tap, and a simple ceramic water fitting with a ball valve is inserted in its place (and car owners prefer to install branded Italian fittings rather than cheap Chinese ones). The resulting design is shown in the photo below.
Car enthusiasts often install ordinary water fittings on their VAZ stove taps.
The advantages of such a replacement are obvious: high reliability and no leaks. But there is also a significant disadvantage: you have to open and close the tap manually. And to do this you will need to stop and climb under the hood every time.
Installing a stove tap directly in the cabin can hardly be called a successful engineering solution, especially if the reliability of the unit is low. So the VAZ owner will definitely have to change the stove valve, and the best thing he can do in this situation is not to wait for the coolant to flow under the passenger’s feet, but to install a ceramic valve immediately after purchasing the car.
Lada 2114
› Logbook › 072: Removing the stove tap
In short, having read from comrade OKAYOTA about removing the Shtutser heater tap instead of the heater tap on a VAZ-2114 or the heater tap, goodbye!), I was inspired by this idea)) Moreover, the heater radiator has been asking for a replacement for a long time)
I think everyone knows the advantages of this solution, or rather one plus - the faucet simply opens and magically no longer leaks into the cabin)) On the downside, they talk about the hellish heat in the legs in the summer, but I think this is the lot of those who have not adjusted the damper) For those It’s not in vain that more modern Kalinakhs got rid of it, huh?))
Only OKAYOTA did everything correctly, using special fittings, and I don’t have any familiar turners or money, so it was decided to disassemble it and then think on the spot)))
I did this in parallel with replacing the heater radiator: Replacing the heater radiator. DAAZ, at the beginning of the entry it is indicated that I unscrewed two 10mm bolts from the side of the engine compartment and removed two pipes.
The cable is removed from the faucet itself.
Well, then it’s simple. The faucet can be easily removed from the interior)
I don’t know how to determine what kind it is, like DAAZ...)) By the way, it was dry and fully functional, so there was no need to change it... BUT, my hands are itching)))
So, get ready, next will be collective farm collective farm)))
Replacing the heater tap
The heater tap on a VAZ car is replaced if the heater tap leaks. A sign of a leaking heater tap is the formation of puddles of coolant on the carpet at the feet of the front passenger in the car interior.
With the onset of cold weather, all drivers move the heating switch to the “red” zone, and many immediately discover a puddle of “Antifreeze” under the passenger’s feet. The same thing happened to me in the spring when I turned off the “stove”. So you should touch the delicate tap less often. Better - twice a year, the rest of the time regulating the temperature with the “outboard” air supply damper. But the experienced ones keep a spare unit at the ready.
To complete the job of replacing the heater valve, you will need a new heater valve, a worm clamp with a diameter of 16-23 mm and coolant.
We carry out the work of replacing the heater valve on a VAZ car with a cold engine. In the engine compartment, loosen the tightening of the clamps securing the heater inlet and outlet hoses to the faucet nozzles, and remove the hoses from the nozzles. In the cabin, use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the tightening of the clamps securing the heater radiator hoses to the faucet nozzles and remove the hoses.
We remove the rod bracket and remove the rod from the hole in the valve lever. In the engine compartment, using a “10” wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the valve body to the front panel. In the cabin, remove the valve. We assemble everything in reverse order... The faucet was installed in ceramic...
List of new spare parts and tools for repair
VAZ 2115: replacing the heater radiator on your own
High-quality parts that will be needed to replace the heater valve on a VAZ 2115 and similar models 2113, 2114 must be certified by the manufacturer and have original part numbers, which guarantees their compatibility and long service life. To fix this problem, the car owner will need the following spare parts:
- New heater valve (art. 21080 - 8101150 - 00) Here it is worth giving preference to a ball valve, which has reliable structural elements and greater heat transfer, in contrast to the ceramic and membrane type.
- Two pipes from the tap to the heater radiator (repair kit 237РШ).
- Four metal sealing ties (clamps).
- A can of coolant compatible with what was previously poured into the vehicle's system.
Repair work is carried out using standard tools, the list of which looks like this:
- a set of screwdrivers with a short tip;
- open-end spanners 10 and 13 mm;
- compact-sized coupling heads with a cardan and a knob;
- container for draining old coolant;
- sealant;
- flashlight for a better view under the torpedo space of the vehicle;
- gloves for hand safety.
In official Lada car repair shops, at the end of 2022, the price for replacing a heater valve on a VAZ 2114 is, without taking into account the cost of new parts, from 2000 to 2500 rubles; small, private workshops will ask for about 1500 rubles for the work. The work itself is not difficult and any car owner can do the repairs with his own hands after studying the steps below.
Heating system design
The valve in question allows you to close or, on the contrary, give unlimited access to the engine-heated coolant (coolant) to the heater radiator. To enhance convection, the circuit also uses an electric fan. The latter pumps air, heat exchange occurs, and the temperature in the cabin rises.
The heater tap is located under the dashboard. You can access it by removing the side trim from the front passenger seat.
In the summer, there is no need for a heater, and therefore the damper remains closed, and, accordingly, antifreeze stops flowing into the heater. In this case, the system performs the function of ventilation, and unnecessary coolant circulates through a small circuit and cools in the main radiator.
The tap begins to be actively used in the fall, when the need for a stove arises. It is driven by a special lever mounted on the instrument panel. A drive cable comes from it, which, in turn, is connected to the locking valve mentioned above.
Possible problems
According to unofficial statistics, car owners of the VAZ-2115 family identify two main problems that may arise with the heater tap. The first is oxidation of the regulator lever, caused by long periods of inactivity during the summer. The components of the constipation mechanism simply “stick together”, forcing you to use brute physical force in an attempt to eliminate this problem, which, in turn, can lead to breakdown.
The second - much more serious - problem can be a leaking faucet. This already promises you not only trouble with coolant getting inside the car, but also complete overheating of the engine, caused by the fact that the entire system will be left without antifreeze.
Unfortunately, the heater valve is a one-piece, non-separable part, which, in the event of a malfunction, can only be completely replaced.
However, your expenses will not be so high - the price range for the VAZ-2115 ranges from two hundred to five hundred rubles, depending on the brand of manufacturer and crane model you choose. Those with a ceramic regulator are considered the most durable, since they are practically indifferent to oxidation processes, but the heat transfer when used is slightly lower than that of other options.
Causes of failure
Replacing the tap, in the case of a VAZ, is usually required if it stops working. This happens when it gets jammed. This happens due to the sedimentation of solid particles contained in antifreeze and metal corrosion on its elements.
The second reason is the appearance of a leak. It occurs after the membrane loses its tightness.
In both situations there is no choice - you have to start repairing. It is almost impossible to repair the faucet itself - it is simply replaced with a working one. The procedure is not complicated, but it is advisable to carry out all the work together with an assistant.
A leaking stove tap needs to be eliminated as quickly as possible, as it can cause many problems. The leakage of antifreeze directly into the cabin is the most insignificant of them.
More trouble will be caused by a lack of coolant in the engine cooling system - because of this, it can easily fail.
So, if the cabin suddenly smells of antifreeze, and a wet spot appears under the rug, then, first of all, it is the faucet that needs to be checked. Arm yourself with a flashlight and, having removed the side panel from the center console (passenger side), look into the opened niche. Please note that there may be a leak from the radiator, as well as from the pipes, which means it wouldn’t hurt to inspect them. However, more often than not it is the faucet that is to blame.
Symptoms of a problem
The main reason why probably 90% of people who want to replace the stove radiator turn to a car service center is the following: “the stove is not heating well, what should I do?” In this case (at least in a normal car service, where the mechanics’ task is to solve the client’s problem, and not to fulfill “any whim for your money”), first of all, the cooling system is checked for problems.
Problems that cause this symptom include:
- faulty thermostat;
- air lock in the cooling system;
- the heating radiator is clogged;
- The stove tap is closed.
Let's look at each in more detail below.
Thermostat
One of the reasons for poor heating of the stove in the cold season may be the thermostat being stuck in the open position. In this case, the coolant immediately goes into a large circle when the engine starts. As a result, the car takes a very long time to warm up, the engine does not warm up properly, and the heater does not heat up either.
If in your case poor heating of the interior in winter is combined with slow warming up of the engine, pay attention to the thermostat. By the way, in the hot summer this problem may not be noticed
The engine warms up more slowly than usual, but only an experienced car enthusiast will notice this.
It also happens that the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position. In this case, the stove also does not work, and the engine, on the contrary, boils faster than usual. In cold winter, the problem may not be noticed if you only drive short distances and avoid traffic jams.
Airlock
An air lock most often forms after replacing antifreeze. But there may be other reasons for airing the system. We have a special material on our website completely devoted to this issue. If necessary, we recommend contacting him. It’s easy to check the system: you need to warm up the car until the fan turns on and carefully probe all the pipes
Pay special attention to those connected to the radiator valve fittings. By feeling an area whose temperature is different from the neighboring one, you can verify the presence of this problem.
Heating radiator clogged
Another reason for a poorly functioning stove is this. The radiator clogs for a number of reasons:
- antifreeze does not change at the correct frequency, which is why deposits appear on its walls, which clog the channels;
- there was a breakdown of the pump impeller, particles of which got into the radiator;
- destruction of the inner surface of the radiator due to age-related reasons.
If there is a suspicion of clogging (and there should be, if all other elements of the cooling system are working normally), you should use special means for flushing the cooling system.
Stove tap
It may clog or sour in the half-closed position. Or is it simply covered up? Perhaps the previous owner preferred to drive cool. Check how it opens and closes and whether there are any leaks.
And finally, if all of the above didn't work, congratulations. It begins...
Preparing for replacement
First of all, buy a new faucet. Experienced car mechanics recommend not using the standard product installed on the VAZ-2115 by the manufacturer. Buy a ceramic element and an additional set of gaskets for it.
You will also need:
- can of VD-40;
- keys for 13 millimeters and 10;
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
- a bucket or basin with a capacity of at least 8 liters;
- sealing compound (neutral silicone).
If the antifreeze has not been changed for a long time, then purchase it in sufficient quantities, because in order to replace the faucet, the old one will have to be completely drained from the system. And finally, install the VAZ-2115 on a pit (ramp or lift) - you need access to its bottom.
Fan motor repair
If the electric motor malfunctions, it should first be removed and then the feasibility of repair should be determined. It is necessary to evaluate the condition of the brushes, armatures, windings, and check the integrity of the wire insulation. The contact area of the brushes on the armature can be cleaned with zero grade sandpaper. You should also pay attention to the bushings and bearings - clean the rubbing parts from dirt and apply lubricant (for example, Litol). All elements with signs of wear must be replaced.
To assess the feasibility of repairing the electric motor, it must be removed
Replacement procedure
First, make sure that the car engine has completely cooled down, since working with hot coolant is not only difficult, but also dangerous.
If the engine is cold, then immediately go under the vehicle with an empty container. Initially place it under the radiator. Unscrew the plug from the last one. Next, in the engine compartment, slowly unscrew the distributor tank cap. When the coolant drains, move the bucket under the cylinder block - it also has a drain. Its location: directly behind the ignition module.
When there is no antifreeze left in the system, tighten all the plugs and the distribution tank cap and begin removing the pipes. They are held in place with clamps. To loosen the bolts on the latter, you should use WD-40 and a flat-head screwdriver.
Remove the freed hoses from the hood side with great care - there is usually some coolant left in them. Drain it into a container.
Now go directly to the salon. Remove the screws securing the side insert of the center console on the passenger side. Having gained access to the tap, disconnect the pipes from it, also being careful (put a rag on the floor in case of antifreeze leakage).
At the bottom, unscrew the nuts securing the faucet - they require a 10 mm socket wrench. After this, return to the VAZ salon and carefully pull the heater tap towards you. Next, disconnect the cable drive from it by first removing the spring clamp. When installing a new device, do not forget to install fresh gaskets, as well as the seal located at the junction of the part with the body.
Before fixing the stove tap, connect a cable to it, since this will be inconvenient to do later. Replace the pipes, treating their ends with a sealant, and tighten the clamps thoroughly, but do not overdo it - the plastic body of the faucet may crack. The hoses are fixed in the engine compartment in a similar way.
After replacement, fill in with fresh coolant, close the hood, turn on the engine and check if the heater is working and if antifreeze is leaking somewhere.
Heater dampers don't work
The distribution of air flows throughout the cabin is carried out by dampers, which, in turn, are controlled using cables. When these cables fail, problems arise with directing the air flow to the windshield or to the foot area. In addition, the damper that blocks the flow of air from the street begins to work incorrectly. In this case, adjustment of the damper drives is required.
Such situations can arise even on a new car. Slightly warm air begins to flow from the lower, upper and side deflectors, and hot air begins to flow from the center console. This is due to the poor build quality. There are gaps between the joints of the air ducts and the dampers, which leads to warm air entering only from the center console and heating the panel from the inside.
The drive cable is always taut. Therefore, over time it bends, breaks off or stretches. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the damper drive, which is performed in the following order:
- In the stove, we look for a bracket with which the cable sheath is held on the heater body.
- A galvanized metal lever located on the left side is pulled back. This position corresponds to the maximum opening of the damper.
- The length of the cable is tightened and adjusted. The long lever on the lever block in the extreme right position should open the damper completely.
- After adjustment, the cable is securely fixed.
Video: stove repair using the example of a VAZ 2114
Replacing the stove radiator
It would also be useful to talk about this procedure. It is not very difficult, but it takes a lot of time.
The procedure is as follows:
- disconnect the negative cable from the battery;
- remove the dashboard and steering column trim;
- also remove the glove box, the plastic from the center console, the ECU, the air duct, the casing that covers the heater and the air conditioner evaporator (if there is one).
After this, direct access to the radiator opens. It is inspected for leaks, and if any are found, the element is replaced with a new one or repaired.
Removal and replacement instructions
If you need to dismantle the heater, you will need to completely remove and disassemble the dashboard. As for directly replacing the radiator device, it will be enough to only partially disassemble the console. Repairing such a plan is not a particularly simple undertaking, however, if you have patience and strength, you can do everything yourself. To perform the work, you will need standard plumbing tools, including screwdrivers, wrenches, and pliers.
Replacing the VAZ 2114 heater radiator is performed as follows:
First of all, the antifreeze is drained from the heating system. To do this, you need to unscrew the filler cap of the expansion tank and drain the consumables from the main radiator assembly into a previously placed container under the drain hole. When the liquid from the radiator is drained, it is necessary to unscrew the cap in the cylinder block, which will allow the liquid to be drained from the BC. If you notice that the antifreeze has become dark and contains sediment and deposits, then most likely the consumable has already reached the end of its service life and it’s time to change it. Next, you need to remove the audio system from the center console. Remove the frame, pull out the radio itself and disconnect the connectors and wires from it, after which the device can be dismantled. Next, remove the plug and unscrew the screws of the frame that secures the dashboard - in total you need to unscrew 4 screws - two on top and two on the bottom. It is not necessary to dismantle the device itself. After completing these steps, you will need to remove all control levers and sliders from the heating system control unit. Next, the protective cover on the steering column is dismantled; the clamps are located at the top and bottom. The next step is to remove the diagnostic connector cover; it is located in the center console, under the cigarette lighter. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws that secure the connector itself, after which the cover can be removed without any problems. During this step, be careful not to damage the connector. Having done this, you can disconnect the connector from the cigarette lighter. After completing these steps, you need to disconnect all connectors and plugs that are on the center console. At this stage, be careful - it is better to mark all the connectors in advance, otherwise you can confuse them during panel assembly. Next, the signaling unit is removed; to do this, you need to unscrew two screws. This will leave the center frame of the dashboard free so it can be removed. Having done this, you will be able to get to the cigarette lighter illumination connector; it will also need to be disconnected. The next step will be to dismantle the glove box. It is attached to six self-tapping screws; they need to be unscrewed. There are fasteners on the sides of the control panel - self-tapping screws; they will also need to be unscrewed. Remove the screws that secure the ECU mount. Then unscrew a few more screws that secure the heating system control unit. Next, there are plastic trims on the A-pillars; they will need to be dismantled; to do this, again, you need to unscrew the screws. There is a special screw between the steering column and the panel, which also needs to be unscrewed. Having completed these steps, you have loosened the center console, now all that remains is to lift it up and towards the seats. It is not necessary to completely remove the console - you just need to have it pulled back enough to remove the radiator. The panel must be fixed to the side. Now you need to get to the clamps installed on the hoses of the heating unit; use a screwdriver to loosen them. Remove the hoses, but before doing this, wrap them with a rag, since they will most likely release residual antifreeze.
Pay attention to the condition of the pipes - if you see that they are worn out or heavily clogged, or there are signs of damage, then it is better to replace them immediately. The radiator is directly fixed to the heater body using three self-tapping screws - they need to be unscrewed, and the device itself must be removed
After dismantling, the device is replaced with a new one, the assembly procedure is carried out in the reverse order.
Price issue
Prices for radiators vary, but they vary roughly within the same range. The cost of devices depends on the quality of the product, the manufacturer, and the place where it is purchased. For example, Luzar products for the VAZ 2114 on average cost on the market from 900 to 1300 rubles. Aluminum radiators from the manufacturer DAAZ cost on average about 1 thousand rubles.
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