Selecting brakes for Lada Kalina 2: stopping on demand

The only Russian car with a package of factory sports modifications is the Kalina Sport model, which has undergone thorough tuning. Tuning is the creation of a unique design and universal technical characteristics. Why was the Lada Kalina Sport chosen for it, and not another, more modern model?

The handling of this car is the best among the entire model range. Popularity in motorsport (naturally, among car mechanics) gave one big advantage. The selection of additional accessories and spare parts for the model in question exceeds all imaginable limits.

Tormoza_Kalina zr9–14_1

We undertook to prepare the editorial VAZ-21927 for participation in amateur circuit racing. Let's try to find a balance and build a car that can not only show decent results in lap time trials, but also drive with pleasure every day - after all, reliable brakes, a powerful engine and good handling will not hurt on public roads.

First of all, of course, the brakes. Moreover, the front ones: during intense deceleration, a significant part of the car’s weight is distributed forward, so it is they who bear the main burden of converting kinetic energy into thermal energy. How can we evaluate how much better the mechanisms we have chosen compare to the standard ones? We decided to use a complex parameter - we will record the time of passage of the Smolensk Ring. After all, the more effective the brakes, the longer you can keep the gas open and hit the brake pedal closer to the entrance to the turn. Let's look not only at the peak deceleration values, but also at the stability of the brakes: how many laps can the tuning mechanisms withstand without stopping?

Before the start of the tests, Kalina was prepared: the engine oil was changed and Motul-RBF660 brake fluid with a boiling point of 325 °C was added - this is used in racing cars. True, for the winter it will have to be replaced with a regular one: it is too hygroscopic.

The owner contacted from Kazan Kalina Sport II with a request to perform engine tuning and tuning. In Kazan, the client already had experience working with athletes and he did not want to repeat it (we will leave the details behind the scenes). This car was brought into the care of the Workshop, with a mileage of only 10 thousand km.

Let me remind the reader that the second generation Kalina Sport received new wheels, rear disc brakes, suspension, interior trim, body kit and engine tuning from the “court studio Lada Sport ”. As you know, with the arrival of new management at the plant, the old satellites of the “Super-Auto” type were cut off from oxygen and access to the feeder with nutrients. Due to the lack of free nutrients, “Super-Auto” and many other suckers instantly collapsed, showing in all its glory the effectiveness of managing “polymers” in the conditions of Russian reality. As a result, one studio was replaced by another, the patterns of cash flows and the pockets that absorbed them changed, some effective managers went around the world, others got on Kruzaks, but the essence remained the same - partially assembled cars were taken out of the factory, a light was hung on them, the seats were changed and voila - Granta Sport , and then Kalina Sport of the second generation (the first fake generation had only body kits, alloys, stitched seats and disc brakes all around, the engine did not change).

But people asked not only for the engine and seats, but also for some kind of hardware tuning; the buyer was no longer satisfied with the stock engine. But effective managers were not happy with the fact that cash flows were going to some garage Vasya-Petya and other tuners, and a PLAN was born - to rip out the factory shafts, insert tuning ones instead, replace the exhaust (they left the catalyst, the car cannot be sold without it) and make a profit. More complex modifications required time, money, specialists - all this was unnecessary to make a profit. After the presentation of NewKalinaSport2 , leading ruble magazines published pretentious articles where they omnisciently predicted the death of garage tuners and a new era of factory tuning, marked by an unprecedented increase in the power of the VAZ engine up to 118 horsepower! The tuners laughed in unison and used the magazines as a bedding to absorb waste oil...

Since the author of the seat and lithko of this Kalina is of little interest, let’s leave these nuances to the snotty little magazines who have never held a wrench in their lives and turn all our attention to the factory engine of unprecedented power - as much as 118 horsepower . In essence, other than new camshafts, there is nothing interesting in the engine. Moreover, camshafts are not available for free sale (at the time of work with the engine in 2015). But we will return to the topic of camshafts later.

In the meantime, let's listen to the client. Having 118 horsepower from the factory, he wanted to modify the cylinder head, replace the receiver, tweak the program and get 150 horsepower for amateur driving on the Kazan Ring. Since he is a knowledgeable person, he did not leave the whole process to the will of the master, but decided to take an active part, at least by purchasing some of the spare parts himself. Free will, of course, let him buy.

During her time in the hands of the Kazan resident, Kalina had her cat collector amputated, a 4-1 insert was installed, and the program was replaced with the work of the German Generalissimo Shmaulus. Since Shmaulus's products have never been noticed to work effectively (all tuning there usually comes down to deleting checks for the 2nd lambda, while all eco-standards with cat warm-ups remain, the controller goes into an accident and the car stops driving sanely), then this the client noticed that he did not feel any special arrival.

Therefore, before starting work, we remove the VSH schedule from the Kalina Sport 2 , equipped with factory tuning shafts, with a removed cat, Shmaulus firmware (let me remind you, the factory promises 118 hp at 6750 rpm and a torque of 154 Nm at 4750 rpm ) , and we intended...

peak power: 95 hp at 6200 rpm (red line), peak torque: 13.0 kg at 4900 rpm (blue line).

The tuners choked with laughter on the oily piece of paper... Having somehow cleared their eyes from laughter and tears, they delivered a verdict - with such tuning, we still have a lot of work to do.

Having laughed it off, we started disassembling the engine. While the author was disassembling the engine, he spat, all the hardware was wildly overtightened, the tightening torques were not observed, and the tension roller bolt was overtightened when assembling the engine in Lada-Sport so that it bent when unscrewed! The pulleys here are simple, but the camshafts are tuned. Fists are welded. We will return to them later. Everything is perfect in the cylinders - there are no scuffs, the geometry is good. But this is all good only for a stock motor - the motor is very tight. And the factory honing is like a file, very rough. After removing the head, we dismantle the entire engine - the client wanted to open the gearbox and check how the self-locking differential, which he installed in Kazan, was doing. The box was bothering the client with some clanging noises and he wanted to make sure that everything was assembled correctly in Kazan.

Let's deal with the box first. It's new here, with a cable mechanism. The factory workers changed a lot in the design, except for one glaring problem - a torn row of gears !!! How can you so mediocrely pour money into the modernization of the gearbox and leave the poor VAZ series, with an excessively short first gear and an excessively long second? Oh, this famous gap between 1st and 2nd gear, and the dying gears and synchros of the 2nd gear... How familiar.. And now - an almost completely new box, imported cables, imported forks, so much has been redone and the most glaring flaw has been left (tea We’ll fly into space soon, why change it, everyone has been eating and smacking their lips since the 80s). It seems that the old engineers completely fell into dementia and retired, and the new effective managers understand little about what they manage - there are no track engineers (and where would they come from, on brutally low factory salaries), and those those who come have already had dementia since birth and simply don’t know what they are doing. Because some design solutions simply kill with their stupidity and lack of thought. There are no longer enough brains to develop our own cables and mechanisms, so half a box here has been replaced by imported hardware, but the jambs remain - ours, domestic ones...

Well, they still remember - 5th gear on a VAZ front-wheel drive car is starving from a lack of oil. But the plant is not a freak - it reported that the problem was solved, the oil flows through the hollow secondary shaft (it was possible to adjust the structure on the second attempt at Priora, all the craftsmen still remember the tensile shafts with a break-off shank), it is possible to reduce the volume of oil being poured. The new engineers did not remember the lessons of the experienced masters - the volume of oil poured into the new gearbox decreased and the 5th gear began to die not in 100-150 thousand km, but in 10 thousand - on our Kalina, both gears had to be replaced - there was wear on the teeth, from lack of oil...

But who thought of putting sealed bearings on shafts? There was a case - when they went on sale, the author installed these when repairing the box many years ago and repaired it again at his own expense - the box howled almost immediately. And if you remove one cuff, the bearings work quietly...

What about the new synchronizers? Remember ruble journalistic articles praising eternal multi-cone synchronizers made of ceramics? They say they are so eternal, with such a margin of safety that the plant even simplified the design, instead of a three-cone one they installed a two-cone one. And just as these eternal synchronizers began to die en masse on runs of 20-50 thousand, so the ruble propaganda fell silent - the old brass synchronizers lasted for 150-300 thousand!! Moreover, the second gear does not crunch when turned on, as with a dead brass ring, now the ceramics simply do not allow the gear to be engaged at high speeds, and subsequently the gear completely disappears. And again, the craftsmen have a job to do - we replace ceramics and gears with old-style spare parts with brass rings and people drive happy. In what almshouse and by what dementia engineers was all this designed, tested and put into production?!

We have to update all the bearings, because... pitting is already starting on the differential one, the rest are not in the best condition.

The factory claims that it equips the box with a main pair with a gear ratio of 4.3 (factory cars come with a 3.7 pair). But thanks to this pair, the car somehow drove on its 95-horsepower engine... Let's look carefully, is there 63\16 on the gear?! Someone replaced the pair with a cheap 3.9? We counted the teeth - we calmed down, in fact it’s 65\15 - and it’s true, it’s worth 4.3, the mark is just not right..

The client complained about clanking noises in the box (if you pull the wheels on a suspended car), and clanking noises were also heard when starting and braking. The rattles were found - the AVT blockage had reached an indecent state after 5-6 thousand miles. The gears are raised at the ends, as are the seats in the housings, the satellites are not yet crumbling, but the wear is such that the locking filling dangles in the housing and rattles like a bucket of bolts. Increased noise is added by the secondary shaft - multi-cone synchronizers lie freely in their places, move and rattle (look at the video below)... In general, nothing unusual, dear customer, this is the norm, this is AVTOVAZ ! Get used to the heavy, noisy, tinkling, clanging and clanking everyday life on Kalina Sport 2 .

Since the client did not have the budget to replace the interlock, it was reassembled and reinstalled. We already had experience with VhlamRacing blocking with crumbling satellites (these spare parts cannot be found on sale) and nothing happened - the client was riding, happy.

The client was asked to install the 18th row one and replace the pair with 3.9, this way he would get rid of the gap between 1st and 2nd gears and get a balanced box. But no, it still works and suits me, I’ll skid on the first and lose seconds on the second... Looking ahead, it worked and worked for several more thousand kilometers, then the ceramics simply refused and in Kazan the client was given the 18th row and a pair of 3.9s - no I would have listened to the advice right away and saved money on repeated repairs, however, our advice was not taken into account in the future, but in vain... Maybe I should go to Vangi?

In the meantime, we collected the box (essentially, having done useless work checking the locking and the interior of the gearbox), and returned it to the compartment. By the way, the Internet is full of topics with questions - how to remove the cables from the Granta/Kalina cable mechanism. So, I answer, NO way. The factory made an eternal box, why do you need to remove the cables? What are you itching for? Oh, the clutch flew... Well, somehow the dementia engineers didn’t take care of it. There are no latches, like on a foreign car (pressed and disconnected). The cable simply snaps onto the ball once. Someone drags and twists the cables with pliers, breaking the mechanism, but there is a simpler solution. There is no need to remove the cables, you need to pull the entire mechanism out of the box, as if from a flask. To reinstall it, you need to unscrew the lock (shown on the hand in the photo below), insert the mechanism into the box and tighten the lock and three bolts. Don't touch the cables, they are expensive.

In general, the new cable box left a sad impression - the design school at VAZ is deteriorating...

Let's return to the Kalina Sport 2 .

The head was disassembled, the channels and seats were bored and ground. This is painstaking manual work.

The valves were replaced with lighter ones. By the way, if you see boxes with such a yellow label anywhere in the store, you should know that the valves were made in the Workshop! The spring plates are made of duralumin, and the valve springs were left factory. After VAZ destroyed its valve production workshop and began installing Chinese valves, an interesting defect appeared on them - the grooves under the crackers flare out and the valve cannot be removed from the guide bushing without scuffing it. Polish valves sometimes suffer from the same problem. However, there are methods for working with these valves and eliminating this defect is not difficult (it does not lead to breakdown). Otherwise, both Chinese and Polish valves are of good quality.

The camshafts were carefully measured. The intake shaft has a cam with a lift of 9.55 mm , the exhaust - 9.15 mm , the phase of both camshafts is 280 degrees . The shafts themselves are nothing interesting; the profile is rough, made to order by some office, supposedly in Moscow. We are not changing the shafts for now.

The client brought some junk - gears, a receiver. The gears with an aluminum hub (above) turned out to be real junk - the hole for the camshaft toe was set back by a good dozen and a half! As a result, they were rejected and returned to the client, and reliable and proven steel split pulleys were installed in their place. The injectors were replaced with Volgov ones - the client expected 150 forces, no less... While the client was driving back and forth, they clearly showed him the factory honing (a real file) and plate honing with reduced roughness (someone’s ready-made block stood nearby). The client ran his finger in the cylinders for a long time, scratched his head, thought a lot... Then he left.

Even before the car was delivered, the client sent a photo of the receiver on which he wanted to assemble the engine. Allegedly, this receiver was installed by sportsmen and received about 150-170 power. Just like that - from a welded piece of iron and such strength! Shamans, no less.

The chip guy and I laughed at this receiver. Even logically, without driving the car online, one could conclude that the engine would not work with it. The intake pipe accelerates and removes the air flow to cylinders 2 and 3, while channels 1 and 4 remain to the side and will be deprived of air! Along the way, air turbulence in the corners of the receiver will also choke cylinders 1 and 4, taking away the filling. Look at Procar and compare the channel geometry! But no, it’s expensive for a client to buy Prokar, but this welded guano is cheap and will definitely give him the desired 150 strength... Install it and that’s it!!

Well, okay, the client seems to pay, which means he orders the music... Subsequently, we followed the client’s lead more than once, and... but more on that later. However, we were smart enough not to promise the client the mythical 150 horsepower on this receiver, but the client also rejected our arguments.

This receiver is made under different names - RBC-Sport , but we got it under the name TurboHatTema . What kind of name is this, the reader may ask! Here's what. Arguments are arguments (we will check them later, at the client’s expense, of course), but visual res is a lousy and crooked piece of work. As usual, the mating plane was ground. But she didn’t come out! Curvature - 3-4 millimeters! Okay, let's glue it on with sealant. We were tired of cleaning the inside of the receiver from scale and poop after welding.

After installing the head on the block, it's time to install the receiver. Oh yes, I forgot to say, the TurboHatTema is made for a mechanical throttle, and we have E-gas for 3 studs. Well, it’s okay, you’ll finalize it, the client replied... They gritted their teeth and finalized it. Problems again - the pipe is not mounted on the res can, because... The coil of the 2nd cylinder is interfering! I had to bend the pipe a little. There was no sealant or gasket under the pipe, it was simply screwed to the body with 4 screws. After all, someone could have put it that way!

The 4-1 spider was replaced with a full-fledged 4-2-1 , the length of the secondary pipes was extended as much as possible, the resonator was digested, and the rest of the system was left unchanged.

Everything was mounted, the shafts were set with gears to increased overlaps of 2.0 \ 1.6 mm (relatively safe and almost maximum overlaps for factory pistons without deep counters), the key to start, the engine was running!

At idle, a noticeable “poke-poke” appeared, which means the power has increased, the boys in the area would think, looking approvingly at the poisonous green piece of metal under the hood...

But what is good for the boys, for us we still need to check and skate the program. And we went to roll the program with the chipmaker. Let's go and write. The fifth point says that the engine still does not move! Following the thoughts from the fifth point, the chip operator begins to laugh - “the engine is a hat, it doesn’t run, it doesn’t take air, I told you that this receiver won’t run!” Indeed, the air consumption does not even reach 280 kg! We unscrew the spark plugs right on the road, oil painting - spark plugs 1 and 4 have dark insulators, and spark plugs 2 and 3 have light insulators. If you want to burn out the engine, give the client a car with this res,” the chipmaker laughs.

I unload the chip operator and go to take the VSH schedule. What will you show, receiver TurboHatTema ? But there’s nothing to show, it’s just shame.

peak power: 109 hp at 6300 rpm (red line), peak torque: 14.1 kg at 5200 rpm (blue line).

The motor simply won't take in air! With a sawn head! With the program! I call the client and report. Instead of 150 forces, we received 109 forces. A little better than it was. There is silence at the other end of the phone. Then they ask, “how are mine pinched?” The client saw the quality of factory honing with his own eyes and compared it with plate honing.

Sighing, the client left to test the modified engine...

Below are several letters with customer reviews based on the results of engine testing.

June 11, 2015 The sensations began after receiving the car. At first glance, an uneven idle and floating speed due to overlaps are not comme il faut. On the other hand, the traction is like on a serial engine (thanks to the main pair of 4.33), and at 2000 the first pickup begins, at 3750 - the second, then the engine spins in the first three gears up to 7350, thanks to which it is possible to reach 100 km/h in the first 2 gears, and in 3rd even 139 km/h, there is no point in turning further, the engine does not have enough air. There was an ambush with fourth gear - at a temperature of +14, the torque was up to 6600-6800, then it simply hit the wall, I had to switch to fifth and wait 15 seconds until it accelerated to a maximum of 205 km/h. I took measurements, it turned out that up to 100 - 8.49 seconds, 400 m 15.20 seconds. As a former owner of a Mazda 3 with a 2-liter engine, I can say that it already drives at the level of a standard triple. In principle, not bad. The itch in third gear is gone, just Thank you! I don’t know if this is due to the revision or removal and installation. Next, I stopped by local athletes at the Kazan Ring, who have homologated Granta sport light version frets. but we compared it with the same, only unfinished engines, and drove it - the difference is colossal, only uneven idling "writhing" and vibrations of the power unit at low speeds were noted. I really liked the sound, even the standard sport Kalina has a beautiful sound, but after a little customization it became even better, it would have been quieter, but this can be solved. Something like this. Now the other side of the coin is the expense... IT FELL!!! On the highway in the “GAS-On” mode it is 7.3-7.6 l/100 km (with periodic releases of gas, of course, for detours and overtaking). Previously it was 8.5-9.4. Speeds have become comfortable - 150-165 km/h, previously 130-140. If you drive in the “everything according to the rules” mode - 5.2-5.4 l/100 km, previously 6.7-7.4. In the city, with periodic annealing and “voicing the surroundings” - 7.8-8.3 liters per 100 km, there have been no major traffic jams yet. Previously, the consumption in the city was 10.4 - 12.3 Now about the minuses: 1. The exhaust is all black, I thought after modification the oil began to eat, but after looking at the dipstick I was convinced that the oil had gone a little over 650 km, 50-7 grams. This is apparently a consequence of an over-enriched mixture. 2. Rough idle and jerky due to large overlaps.

It should also be noted that while participating in the previous configuration with the factory engine in the race around the Kazan ring, we managed to show the best time of 1:59:158. Which, in principle, is very fast for a 95-100 horsepower car. I haven’t ridden with the current configuration yet, I think I’ll improve the time a little.

Yesterday I tried to take measurements again on a flat area. I took 6 measurements. Average time 8.8. The first one skids a lot, the second one drops to 3500 (standard series), as a result - 8.8. 8.49 is the best time with smooth acceleration without slipping, the air was +7. I couldn't repeat it again. But then I measured it at 98. Yesterday's measurements were taken at 95.

June 17, 2015

Now the oil has stopped eating, although I drive 0w-20 idemitsu eco medalist, easier running, consumption - city -7.1, 10 liters if you constantly turn it, highway - 5.2 according to the rules, 7.4 - cruising 155-160 . However, I will still change the oil to 5-50 for the track. At the moment, the only irritation is the very poor idle and, as a result, the inability of the air conditioner to work in a traffic jam - the idle swings from 800 to 1800, sometimes the damper jams and the engine spins up to 5800 (this has happened a couple of times already). But this is not always the case. Another jerk up to 2500 until the engine warms up to 70 degrees. Otherwise it's an excellent city car, but it got a bit crowded in the city. I took measurements over the weekend using flightlogs. On warm tires, +27 on the street, 60 m/h - 8.4-8.7, 100 km/h - 8.7-9.0.

Continue working with the Kalina Sport 2 engine in the second part:

Kalina SPORT II: part 2 - volume 1.7, completion of the project

Article written: November 8, 2015 Author of the article, photo-video materials: © Quasar Prohibited without the written permission of the author: reprint of the article in whole or in part, reprint and use of photo-video materials, as well as their modification and editing for the purpose of further publication on third parties sites.

VERDICT

Oleg PETRIKOV, “Behind the Wheel” test driver, Russian vice-champion

06

I really liked the Proma kit for its deceleration efficiency. With it, in addition, the clarity of the drive has improved - it’s easier for me to control the deceleration with pedal effort, although I admit that this will cause some difficulties for ordinary drivers. I think most motorists will like the HP Brakes kit, which is similar to “civilian” brakes in terms of pedal movement and force on it.

In each case, Kalina does not become much faster on the race track, and it was not possible to assess which set will last longer - even after fifteen laps in racing mode, the front brakes do not lose effectiveness.

In everyday use of the Lada, standard mechanisms are quite sufficient. It makes sense for residents of regions who operate their cars on mountain roads to install more efficient ones.

Tuning Lada Kalina Sport – engine, exhaust system, suspension + Video

There are quite a few cars of the VAZ 1119 Sport series on Russian roads. This five-door hatchback began to be assembled at the car plant in 2008 and has now somewhat lost its attractiveness and effectiveness. Tuning the Lada Kalina will help refresh the appearance of the sports car and its internal contents.

1 Lada in a sporty style - the history of the car

The first Lada Kalina Sport was manufactured on May 15, 2008. Its prototype was model 1119, which appeared on domestic roads two years earlier. The VAZ 1119 was loved by users for its maneuverability, compact size and confident behavior on the highway. Thanks to these characteristics, the car gained more advantages on city streets and even sports tracks, from which the VAZ 1118 was later displaced.

Car Lada Kalina Sport

The first Lada 1119 models had a 1.6 liter eight-valve petrol engine that complied with the Euro-3 standard. Later, engine variations appeared: V-1.4/1.6 liters with 16 valves. In addition, this car was equipped with an ABS system. Unlike the original VAZ 1119, the Lada Kalina Sport was produced with a six-valve engine of 1.4 and 1.6 liters.

The main differences between the sporty Lada and its predecessor were the modified bumpers, sporty pedal pads, a short steering column and exhaust pipe. The interior of the car was also changed, which became closer to a racing one.

2 Do-it-yourself sports car engine tuning

Of course, Lada Kalina Sport is a car designed for the city and long trips. And let professional racing drivers evaluate its sporting characteristics. Tuning Kalina, based on their experience, will not be amiss for the average car owner. It will make it possible to improve the appearance of the car and its technical characteristics. We will begin this work by changing the engine ourselves.

Sports car Lada Kalina Sport

The standard 1.4 and 1.6 liter engines are quite enough for city trips. But if you decide that their power is not enough for you, you can try to increase the torque by installing a new filter with zero resistance, installing forward flow and chip tuning. We recommend reflashing existing basic VAZ controllers. Auto mechanics know how to do this and will quickly get your controller to work in real time. Such a flashing will not increase the engine power, but will improve the torque to the maximum.

Next, install a zero resistance filter. You can take a device from JR or PROSPORT. It will increase the amount of supplied air and improve the quality of fuel combustion. Such a “zero” will add 5% to the engine power. Is it a lot or a little, you be the judge. A good addition to this filter would be chip tuning, designed to increase the power and speed characteristics of the motor.

3 Exhaust system and suspension of the VAZ 1119 Sport - making changes

Tuning Kalina's sporty style will be incomplete if you do not pay attention to the exhaust system of the car. One chrome attachment will not have any effect. Engine power can be increased by 10% by changing the exhaust in the area from the manifold to the muffler can. An enlarged intake receiver will give us a few more percent of power.

If we have already decided to increase the engine power, then we will take on changing the camshaft of the car. Today, in specialized stores you can purchase an improved camshaft with RS pushers. Simultaneously with its installation, it is necessary to replace the split gear with the possibility of its adjustment.

Improved camshaft

Such do-it-yourself tuning will give the engine power about another 25%. Remember that a new camshaft will also require chip tuning.

There is no point in upgrading the suspension of the VAZ Sport 1119 with your own hands. She's already good. What can still be done is to replace the standard struts with Plaza Sport ones while simultaneously installing SS20 support bearings. To improve handling, the springs are shortened. But for this you need to sacrifice the amount of ground clearance. But the rear suspension does not require any intervention at all.

4 Refinement of the cylinder head and gearbox of the VAZ Lada Kalina

The power of the Kalina Sport engine can be increased by using valves of larger diameter and cross-section, installing lightweight valves and changing their shape and the shape of the seats. Today, by boring, you can increase the engine capacity to 1.7 liters. This will require a crankshaft with 80 mm stroke. Injectors from ZMZ will also be a necessary element. This will further increase the engine power. But if this is not enough for you, then install a turbine and get 20 additional “horses”.

Let's start tuning the gearbox by installing a new rocker. A short-stroke analogue will reduce the stroke of the lever itself and the life of the synchronizers. We replace the clutch mechanism with our own hands to Kevlar or carbon fiber, and install self-locking differentials. You can try increasing the number of gears. Such kits are easy to buy at large auto stores.

Lastly, we pay attention to the appearance of our sports car. We decorate the wheels with 14-inch rims. We install fashionable body kits, make tuning headlights, and LED underbody lighting. In a word, we show our imagination to the maximum. Thus, we were able to improve the driving performance of the car with our own hands and get by with minimal costs by tuning the Lada Kalina.

tuningkod.ru

MISSED?

Alas, the Proma Brakes set I liked so much after dismantling made me whistle. It seems that in extreme modes the rotor begins to warp: it literally removes chips from the caliper. The topic remains open, the manufacturer promised to look into the problem, but for now director Andrei Sisyukin said the following:

— The rotor touching the upper part of the outer half of the brake caliper occurs as a result of the selection of gaps in the dimensional chain and the wheel bearing due to the increased dynamic load on the outer wheel when cornering. This did not happen on other brakes tested due to the inherently larger gap between the brake disc and caliper.

We produce two types of brake calipers: road ones, which ZR tested, and racing ones. One of the differences between them is that in the racing version the gap between the rotor and the caliper is increased. In the road version, we do not increase it, guided by safety considerations: if there is a lot of wear, the pad plate gets into the gap between the brake disc and the caliper, and then either the rotor jams, or the plate is thrown inside the wheel and the car is left without front brakes.

We have been producing brake kits for front-wheel drive VAZ models with these parameters for more than eight years, and we have not received any complaints about the rotor touching the caliper. These elements have certificates of conformity and vehicle type approval.

To find out the reasons for the contact, we will test our brake mechanisms on Kalina.

Kalina Sport (VAZ 1119)

Kalina Sport is a sports version of the VAZ-1119. The model is almost similar to Kalina in the “luxury” version, the only differences are in the original details: bumpers, door moldings, spoiler, exhaust pipe nozzle, nameplate on the fifth door “Kalina Sport”, instrument cluster with white scales and orange backlight, dark interior, sports linings pedals, front seats with pronounced lateral support, Kalina Sport embroidered on the front seats, original K&K alloy wheels. The more powerful Kalina with a VAZ 21126 1.6 16v engine has a SAAZ Sport sports suspension. Front and rear disc brakes. The gearbox is original reinforced. The main pair is 3.9 instead of the standard 3.7.

1.6 l 16-cl., manual transmission

Length, mm3905
Width, mm1700
Height, mm1480
Base, mm2475
Front wheel track, mm1440
Rear wheel track, mm1405
Luggage compartment volume, cubic meters dm. 235 / 545
Weight in running order, kg1155
Gross vehicle weight, kg1535
Wheel formula / drive wheels4 x 2 / front
Car layout diagramfront-wheel drive, front engine, transverse
Body type / number of doorshatchback / 5
engine's typefour-stroke, gasoline
Supply systemdistributed injection with electronic control
Number and arrangement of cylinders4, in-line
Engine displacement, cubic meters cm 1596
Maximum power, kW/rpm.72 / 5600
Maximum torque, Nm at rpm145 / 4000
Fuelunleaded gasoline AI-95 (min)
Fuel consumption by driving cycle, l/100 km7,8
Maximum speed, km/h170
Transmissionmechanical
Number of gears5
Main gear ratio3,9
Steeringrack and pinion steering mechanism
Tires195/50R15 (82, H)
Fuel tank capacity, l50

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