The brake system of a car must always be in good technical condition, and this primarily concerns the brake pads. On the VAZ “Seven” they rarely have to be changed and the main reason for this is wear of the friction lining. The emergence of problems with the brake mechanisms is indicated by corresponding signs that indicate the need for inspection and repair or replacement of the brake elements.
- What are they used for?
- What are there
Front
- Rear
- Brake pad problems
Extraneous sounds
- Skid
Video: why the car pulls to the side when braking
- Dismantling
Video: replacing front brake pads on classic Zhiguli cars
Signs you need to replace your brake pads
Replacing brake pads on a VAZ 2107 is necessary in the following cases:
- the thickness of the lining is less than 2 mm (for front pads) or 1.5 mm (for rear pads);
- the linings are oily;
- The linings have chips and cracks.
To determine the condition of the front pads, simply remove the wheel. To get to the rear ones, you also need to remove the brake drum, which requires some effort and a lot of time. Therefore, problems with pads can be determined by other methods.
- creaking (grinding) when you press the brakes;
- pulling the car away from the trajectory when braking.
These signs indicate that it is necessary to check the condition of the pads.
Important points
There are a couple of important nuances that you need to remember when changing pads:
- Reinstalling one of the long bolts on the brake drum guard can cause serious problems. The fact is that there is not enough space behind the shield, and not everyone will be able to stick their fingers there . Experienced owners of “sevens” know this and do it simply: tie the bolt to a thread. The second end of the thread is tied to a piece of wire. This wire is inserted into the bolt hole, picked up with pliers on the other side of the shield and pulled out along with the thread and the long bolt;
We install new ones
Before installing new pads, it is necessary to release the parking brake cable, as it may not allow the drum to fit onto the new pads. Assembly occurs in reverse order. The springs can cause difficulties, but if you act slowly, everything should work out. This is where the file mentioned earlier comes in very handy. Thanks to the pointed shank, you can easily hook the spring loops into the mounting holes.
During the assembly process, it may turn out that, despite the parking brake cable being completely released and the working brake cylinder being fully compressed, it is not possible to put the drum on the newly installed pads. The reason for this phenomenon may be the thickness of the linings, which often slightly exceeds the permissible limit. In this case, it is recommended to change them one at a time - first replace the more worn one with a new one, after a while we replace the second one.
Let's summarize
It is important that before installing new parts, the cylinder pistons must be brought together as much as possible.
If the drum still refuses to “sit” in its normal place, you can remove the collar. This is done like this: the drum is fixed on the axle shaft with the reverse side, the motor and speed are turned on. The bead is sawed off with a file. Despite the simple design of the rear pads, their installation is more difficult. But having performed this operation once, you will perform all subsequent repairs with ease. And the rear pads need to be changed every 40-50 thousand kilometers. This is precisely their resource. German pads can last longer if you operate the car as usual and the way you drive the car is not aggressive.
Brake pad problems
The parts of the braking system in question have to be changed not only when they wear out, but also when malfunctions occur that are associated with the use of low-quality consumables or too active driving. The following characteristic signs indicate problems with the pads:
- creaking, grinding and other extraneous sounds when braking;
- car skidding when pressing the brake pedal;
- to operate the pedal you have to exert more or less force than usual;
- beating of the pedal when braking;
- after releasing the pedal, it does not return to its original position;
- the presence of black dust on the rims.
Extraneous sounds
Modern brake pads are equipped with special indicators that indicate wear of these car parts. The indicator is a metal strip that is attached below the friction lining. When most of the material is worn out, but the pad is still able to decelerate, a characteristic grinding or whistling sound appears when the brake pedal is applied. If the pads are not equipped with such indicators, the presence of extraneous sounds indicates obvious wear of the elements in the brake mechanism and the need to replace them.
Pad wear can manifest itself in different ways, and one of the signs is extraneous sounds when braking.
Skid
If the car skids to one side when braking, then the likely cause is wear on one of the pads. The car can skid until it turns around, even on a dry surface. In addition to the pads, skidding can occur due to scuffing or deformation of the brake discs.
Video: why the car pulls to the side when braking
Some time ago I was faced with a situation where the car began to pull to the side when braking. It didn't take long to find the reason for this behavior. After a quick inspection of the car's underside, it was discovered that one of the rear brake wheel cylinders was leaking. This caused brake fluid to get on the working surface of the pad and drum, as a result of which the mechanism was unable to perform its function. The problem was resolved by replacing the cylinder and bleeding the brakes. If you encounter a similar situation, I recommend replacing the entire cylinder rather than installing a repair kit, since the quality of rubber products today leaves much to be desired.
Increase or decrease pedal effort
If the pedal has to be pressed unusually hard or lightly, the problem may be caused by worn or dirty pads. If everything is in order with them, then you should check the integrity of the entire brake system for fluid leaks.
Vibration
If there is vibration when you press the brake pedal, then a possible reason is that dirt has gotten between the brake disc and the pads, or a crack or chips have appeared on the latter. As a result, parts are subject to premature wear. However, you should be aware that a similar phenomenon is also possible due to problems with the hub or hydraulic cylinders of the brake system.
The pedal goes down
Sometimes it happens that the brake pedal does not move back after being pressed. This indicates that the pads are “stuck” to the disc. This phenomenon can be observed at sub-zero temperatures when moisture gets on the pads. In addition, air may enter the braking system, which requires inspection and subsequent repair or bleeding of the brakes.
Plaque on discs
Plaque on wheel rims is black dust, which indicates wear on the pads. If the dust contains metal particles, then not only the pads are erased, but also the brake disc itself. If such a situation arises, you should not delay inspecting the brake mechanism, as well as replacing failed parts. The appearance of black deposits on wheels can be caused by active driving or natural wear of the pads.
One day I noticed that the front wheel rims were covered with black dust, and it was not road dust. It is no longer known what brake pads were installed at that time, but after replacing them with factory ones from AvtoVAZ, the situation remained unchanged. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the appearance of black dust is a normal phenomenon, indicating natural wear of the pads.
Brake system repair
CAR SERVICE MAXIMOTORS
We provide services for diagnostics, repair and maintenance of the brake system on foreign and domestic cars, as well as minibuses and minivans.
The reliability of the brakes is the main criterion for the safety of any car, therefore, during each maintenance, car repair workers pay the closest attention to this device.
Also, the driver himself must monitor the serviceability of the brake system, especially in a supported car, and at the first sign of a failure, immediately contact a service station.
All work is carried out on the basis of the technical documentation of the car plant that manufactured the car, taking into account the series and year of manufacture of this vehicle.
MAXIMOTORS car service provides services for diagnostics, repair and replacement of all components of brake systems on both foreign and domestic cars.
Our services
We carry out the following work:
- diagnostics of the car brake system;
- diagnostics and repair of the anti-lock braking system ABS;
- replacing rear and front brake pads;
- replacement of brake discs and drums;
- replacement of brake hoses and tubes;
- repair and replacement of hydraulic drive, working cylinders, calipers;
- repair and replacement of the main brake cylinder;
- diagnostics, repair and replacement of the vacuum booster;
- replacing brake fluid;
- repair, parking brake adjustment;
- bleeding the brakes;
- adjusting the free play of the brake pedal and other work.
COST OF REPAIR OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM (MIDDLE BUDGET CLASS FOREIGN PASSENGER CARS)
COST OF REPAIR OF THE BRAKE SYSTEM FOR VAZ 2101-2107
REPLACING THE FRONT BRAKE HOSE | from 800 |
REPLACING THE FRONT BRAKE PIPE | from 600 |
REPLACING THE FRONT BRAKE WORKER CYLINDER | from 800 |
REPLACING THE MAIN BRAKE CYLINDER | from 1200 |
REPLACING THE REAR BRAKE PIPE | from 600 |
REPLACING THE REAR BRAKE CYLINDER | from 800 |
REPLACING THE REAR AXLE BRAKE HOSE | from 800 |
REPLACING THE MAIN PIPE | from 2 000 |
BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM | from 800 |
CHANGING BRAKE FLUID | from 800 |
REPLACING FRONT PADS | from 600 |
REPLACING REAR DRUM PADS | from 500 |
REPLACING DRUMS | from 400 |
ADJUSTING THE HANDBRAKE | from 300 |
REPLACING HANDBRAKE CABLES | from 1 200 |
REPLACING THE SHORT HANDBRAKE CABLE | from 1200 |
REPLACING THE HANDBRAKE LEVER | from 1200 |
Causes of brake failure
The reasons for premature failure of the car’s brake system may be the following circumstances:
- failure to undergo scheduled maintenance;
- operation in difficult road and climatic conditions;
- active, with constant sharp braking, driving style;
- untimely replacement of parts and fluids;
- installation of low-quality parts, as well as filling in inappropriate brake fluid;
- Incompetent or poor quality repairs.
Main types of malfunction
The most common faults our technicians identify are the following:
- violation of its tightness, which leads to a decrease in brake fluid;
- cracks and ruptures in brake hoses;
- critical wear of brake pads;
- wear and damage to brake discs;
- “souring” of the pistons in the brake cylinders;
- breakdown of the vacuum booster;
- wear and damage to the parking brake.
Brake system maintenance rules
The brake system of a modern car is designed to last as long as the car itself, subject to proper operation, mandatory maintenance and scheduled replacement of parts that have served their intended life.
The brake system must undergo the necessary checks at each maintenance (after 10 - 15 thousand km) or twice a year.
First of all, diagnostics requires: brake fluid level, presence of damage, wear of brake pads and discs, as well as the operation of the parking brake.
Brake fluid should be replaced at least once every five years, regardless of mileage.
Flexible hoses, regardless of their condition, must be changed after 100 thousand km. mileage
During active driving, brake pads may require replacement after 15 thousand km.
If you wish, you can change these elements yourself, but if you do not have practice, it is better to entrust this work to specialists.
Don't forget that the braking system is the most important element of safety!
Disassembly and assembly of the front brake
- Disconnect tube 5 and remove dust caps 2 from the cylinders.
- Then, pumping a stream of compressed air through the brake fluid inlet, push the pistons 1 out of the cylinders on the caliper 4 and remove the O-rings 3 from the cylinders.
Assemble the front brake in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the sealing rings, pistons and cylinder mirror with brake fluid during assembly.
After installation, restore the brake fluid level and bleed the hydraulic drive system.
How to replace the front brake pads on a VAZ 2107 yourself
Domestic cars with rear-wheel drive (including the VAZ 2107) are equipped with a disc brake system in the front and a drum brake in the rear. Thus, the design of brake pads differs significantly in manufacturing design.
If you look at the car's passport, you can determine that there are 4 pads in front with the code 2101-3501089. Four pads with the code 2101-3502090-01 are also responsible for braking the rear wheels. Therefore, the process of replacing these components is significantly different, as is the principle of operation of the mechanisms on the Zhiguli 2107.
How often should the pads be changed?
The need to replace this part on a VAZ 2107 depends on a large number of factors, including:
- regularity of maintenance;
- general condition of the brake mechanisms and the system as a whole;
- driving style;
- manufacturer, etc.
These criteria are quite sufficient. In addition to this, you can find out about the need to replace the pads by the behavior of the brake system. For example, if during a stop, extraneous sounds are observed - grinding, creaking, and so on. Does it require significant force to slow down? It's time to worry about buying new pads.
If the machine is equipped with low-quality parts, wear will be quite rapid. Pads from Ferodo, Nippon, ATE - recognized quality and durability.
Using reliable products, replacement of this part will be required once every 25 thousand km.
It is important to note that installing the right or left block separately is strictly prohibited. These works are performed in pairs on each axis.
What tools will be needed to carry out the work?
To perform the replacement you will need:
- A jack and handy stops to prevent the car from rolling.
- 2 sets of new pads.
- Grease, WD-40 or any other rust softener.
- Ruler.
- Phillips and flat head screwdriver.
- Hammer with drift.
- Pliers.
- Needle nose pliers.
- Keys for removing wheels.
- Rags.
Step-by-step process for replacing brake pads on a VAZ 2107
After preparing all the tools, first measure the fluid level in the corresponding reservoir. The engine must be turned off. If the indicator is exceeded from the maximum, select some of the fluid so that nothing subsequently gets on the brake disc.
Raise the handbrake and place chocks under the wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Only now can you lift the car using a jack. Remove one wheel and clean the entire mechanism responsible for braking using a rag. If rust is visible, apply WD-40 for easy removal of the guides.
Unsplit the guides with thin-nose pliers. Place a drift in a convenient position and carefully knock out the guides (not completely) to the extent that the brake pads are freed.
Remove the pressure springs from the pads. Now take pliers and use them to press the pistons into the cylinders. Once completed, you can remove the brake pad from the mechanism.
After dismantling the part, carry out an analytical inspection - determine the degree of production; if everything is normal, replacing it is a waste of time. The part can still continue to work out its service life, and the malfunction itself lies in a completely different functional unit of the car. If you determine the presence of wear, prepare a new pad for installation.
Take some grease and apply it to the guides. Be especially careful - the product should not come into contact with other functional components of the brake system.
To successfully install a new brake pad, all steps are performed in reverse order:
- Install the block.
- Install the springs.
- Reinstall the guides to secure the pad.
- Use thin-nose pliers to tighten the guides.
- Check that all mechanisms are secure, after which you can install the wheel.
- Lower the jack and remove the supports.
Once the procedure is complete, repeat the same with the other front wheel.
Once the pads are installed, start bleeding the brakes. To do this, simply press the corresponding pedal sharply several times. Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. If the level is lower than required, add the missing amount.
As you learned from this article, in order to replace the front brake pads on a domestic car, you do not need to have any special knowledge. Having the necessary tools, as well as some care, will allow you to complete this type of repair work quickly and efficiently. If you do not want to frequently replace this part, select high-quality products (Ferodo, Nippon, ATE). The service life of such pads is noticeably higher than that of cheap analogues with a service life of up to 10 thousand km or less.
If you feel that you do not have enough experience to perform this work, contact a private workshop where a specialist will complete the work in a short time.
How to choose spare parts
How long the pads will last depends on the driver’s driving style (aggressive driving) and the conditions under which the car has to be driven. The pads wear out faster if the car moves around the city in jerks: either picking up speed in fairly short sections, or using sharp braking.
Helpful advice
When choosing spare parts, it is not enough to be guided by cost or brand. When purchasing new brake pads, buy them from the same batch. The features of friction lining production are important. If the spare parts are from the same batch and from the same manufacturer, the difference in the physical and mechanical properties of the material will be insignificant.
The procedure for replacing brake pads is carried out on both wheels of the same axle at once. Wherein:
- Be sure to analyze the condition of the parts and mechanisms of the brake system.
- To assess brake disc wear, use a caliper and measure its thickness.
- Check the entire assembly for damage and find out if the geometry of the structure is broken.
Front brake device for VAZ 2107
1 — fitting for bleeding the front brake drive; 2 — connecting tube of working cylinders; 3 — brake pad wear indicator wire; 4 — wheel cylinder piston; 5 — wheel cylinder clamp; 6 — brake pad lining; 7 - sealing ring; 8 — dust cap; 9 — pins for securing the pads; 10 — bolt securing the caliper to the bracket; 11 — steering knuckle; 12 — caliper mounting bracket; 13 — caliper; 14 — protective casing; 15 — cotter pin; 16 — pad pressure spring; 17 — brake pads; 18 — wheel cylinder; 19 — brake disc.
- Having disconnected the wires of the 3 front pad wear indicators from the plug connections of the wires, remove the cotter pins 15, and then the pins 9 with the springs, remove the springs 16 and the brake pads 17. Mark the pads so that during reassembly you can install them in their original places.
- Having straightened the locking plates, unscrew the two bolts 10 that secure the caliper to the bracket, and remove the caliper.
NOTE! It is possible to remove the front brake (without brake disc) complete with brake pads. In this case, it is enough to disconnect the plug connections of the brake pad wear indicator wires, disconnect the caliper hose and unscrew the caliper mounting bolts 10.
Installing front brakes
Installation of the front brake caliper is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
After installation, restore the brake fluid level in the reservoir and bleed the system to remove air.
Removing the brake caliper
To remove the caliper you must do the following:
- lift the car on a lift or jack up the wheel on which the brake caliper needs to be removed;
- Using a wrench, remove the bolt securing the brake hose bracket;
- remove the bracket so that it does not interfere with further actions;
Important: under the bracket fastening bolt there is a spring washer, which must not be lost when dismantling the bolt and bracket.
- unscrew the bolt securing the brake hose;
- remove the bolt after first removing the two o-rings;
- insert a rubber tube or bolt of a suitable diameter into the hole in the brake hose tip to prevent brake fluid from leaking out;
- Use pliers to remove the cotter pins securing the brake pad pins;
- pull out the pins securing the brake pads and remove them using a bit or a thin, but not sharp, screwdriver;
- remove the retaining springs from the brake pads;
- remove the brake pads;
Advice: if you plan to use the brake pads in the future, they should be marked with a marker so that during reassembly they can be installed in the same place where they were. If this is not done, they will wear out faster and brake worse.
- bend the locking plates of the washers on the caliper mounting bolts;
- unscrew and remove the bolts securing the caliper to the steering knuckle;
- Remove the brake mechanism (caliper) of the VAZ 2107 from the brake disc.
Important: the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts differ in the shape of the head. When installing the unit in place, it is necessary not to mix them up.
How the repair is carried out
If the mechanism is damaged or there are deformations, it must be completely replaced. Repairing a VAZ 2107 caliper involves replacing non-working cylinders. The repair procedure is as follows:
- The device is fixed in the jaws of a vice.
- Unscrew the fastenings of the connecting metal tube. After this, the tube must be removed.
- Knock out the working cylinders from the guides.
- If there are none, remove the clamps and replace them with new cylinders.
- Place the cylinders in the guides, and then install the connecting tube, followed by tightening the fittings.
- If it is necessary to repair the brake cylinders on the caliper, then the essence of the repair actions is to change the rubber seals.
- To make repairs, you will need to remove the cylinder and then remove the rubber cap from the cylinder using a screwdriver.
- Press the piston out, then remove the sealing ring using a screwdriver.
- In place of the old ring you need to install a new one from the repair kit. The cylinder, as well as the piston and ring, must be lubricated with brake fluid.
- Install the piston into the mechanism cylinder.
Read, it may come in handy: Replacing rear brake pads: which ones are better, how to open and install the spring, instructions with photos and videos
What is needed to replace brake pads
To change the brake pads of a VAZ 2107, you will need the following tools and accessories:
- jack;
- wheel wrench;
- set of wrenches;
- hammer;
- bit or thin screwdriver;
- metal brush;
- rag (rags);
- a powerful flat-head screwdriver or pry bar;
- pliers;
- screwdriver;
- WD-40;
- new pads.
Important: VAZ 2107 pads must be changed only as a set: both left and right at the same time.
The front brakes of the “seven” are disc type, the rear brakes are drum. Accordingly, the design of the pads and the procedure for replacing them are different.
What does a driver need to replace?
It is worth noting that to change brake pads on a VAZ-2107 car, you must have special tools or devices. These include:
- Wrench for end-type nuts (balloon).
- Hammer.
- Jack.
- Wrenches of various sizes.
- Metal brush.
- Large screwdriver (flat head).
- Pliers.
- Aerosol preparation for corrosion prevention (WD-40).
- Clean rags.
- A set of new pads.
Experts draw the attention of readers to the fact that the dismantling and replacement of new brake components on the VAZ-2107 is carried out immediately in a comprehensive manner.
When should you change rear pads?
As mentioned above, if you hear a squeaking sound from the rear of the car when braking, then it’s time to check the rear brakes. This is the first sign that the pads need to be replaced. In addition, their resource does not exceed 40-50 thousand km, knowing the quality of spare parts, it is even less.
After opening the drum and visual inspection, if the thickness of the friction lining is less than 2-1.5 mm, we change the pads. It may be that the thickness is still sufficient, but chips are found on the working surface or the material has delaminated. There were times when it simply fell into the drum and there was nothing to slow it down. At the same time, a strong metallic grinding sound was transmitted into the cabin when the brake was pressed.
Signs of pad wear
Here are the most common signs that it’s time to change the pads urgently:
- a strong grinding or creaking sound that occurs when braking. Moreover, this sound may intensify with increasing pressure on the brake pedal. The reason is simple: the linings on the pads are worn out, and you have to brake not with the linings, but with bare steel plates. It is this braking that causes the loud grinding noise. Often only a small area of the lining wears out, but even this is enough for braking efficiency to drop several times. And uneven wear of the linings can occur due to the fact that the pads are installed with a slight distortion;
- A knocking sound that occurs when driving when the brakes are not used. As mentioned above, each pad has special pads. These pads are attached to the pads using rivets. Over time, the rivets wear out and fall off. As a result, the lining begins to dangle and knock. If you don't take action, it breaks. Very often, when removing an old block, the following picture is observed: a piece of the lining hangs from the block, dangling loosely on one surviving rivet.
Rear brake pads and their types
Brake pads are the most important element of the braking system, ensuring the process of slowing down and stopping a vehicle. Pads are divided into two types:
- on the front wheels (disc)
- on the rear wheels (braking occurs using linings adjacent to the drum)
It is the latter type that we are talking about today.
The principle of operation of the pads is that when the driver presses the brake pedal, the impulse from it is transmitted to the brake system, to the pads.
Fitting tightly to the drum (this is the case with the rear units, and the disc, if we talk about the front units), the pads act as a barrier that prevents the wheel from spinning, as a result of which the car stops. If the pads fail, this has the most negative impact on the operation of the braking system, which can lead to serious consequences, such as loss of control of the car while on the road and an accident. That is why it is so important to keep under control the condition of the vehicle’s brake system components, as one of the most important systems responsible for traffic safety.
You can determine that the components are out of order by a characteristic squeaking noise, which intensifies as the car accelerates.
There are two ways to solve this problem:
- Contact a mechanic
- Fix the node defect yourself.
But contacting a specialist can cost a pretty penny, because, to hide it, our country has now taken the path of market relations, where man is a wolf to man, which is not good, and sometimes in auto repair shops they also increase the price for the simplest work.
Doing this work yourself will not be so difficult, it is only important to be patient, have the necessary equipment, read the instructions in detail, and also purchase new rear pads.
There is a large selection of these parts on the car market. But most often motorists give their preference to three options:
- Pilenga, of high quality and good service life, the price per part is 580-600 rubles.
- Allied Nippo, cost about 1000 rubles.
- Tornado - sold at a price of 950-1000 rubles.
The pads have been purchased and a free day has been carved out for work. Here we go?
General job description and tools
You will need:
- repair pit (can be done on a flat area, driving the front wheel onto a hill. But this greatly complicates the work)
- jack,
- balloon wrench (balloon),
- garage tools: pry bar, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.
General procedure:
- We hang the front of the car with a jack.
- We remove the wheel.
- We turn the steering wheel all the way so that it is convenient to work.
- We find out the scope of work, check the caliper, brake disc, integrity and connections of hoses and pipelines.
- Remove the brake hose from the mount.
- Use a balloon to press out the brake piston.
- The level of brake fluid in the expansion tank will immediately rise.
- We remove the fasteners from the bracket on the caliper and remove the bracket itself.
- We replace the pads.
- We assemble the entire assembly in reverse order.
We present the entire process of replacing brake pads using the example of a VAZ classic car.
Removing and replacing the front brake pads of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands
Change brake pads at least every 30 thousand km. Otherwise, if there is severe wear, you risk losing brake power. Do not let the pads become too squealing or grinding. In this article, we will look at instructions on how to remove and replace the front brake pads of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands.
You will need: new brake pads, hammer, pliers, penetrating lube, flathead screwdriver, guide tool, jack or lift.
Jack up the front of the car and remove the wheel. Lubricate the guides.
Using pliers, remove the clamps from the guides.
Use a screwdriver to pry up the locking spring behind the pads.
We knock out the guides with a hammer and a punch.
We do the same on the other side.
We take out the old pads.
Use a wrench to press in the brake piston.
We clean the space and install new front brake pads of the VAZ 2107. We assemble in the reverse order and repeat with the other wheel. We change the pads strictly in pairs on the front wheels. Upon completion of work, bleed the brake system and add coolant if necessary.
What tools will be needed to carry out the work?
To perform the replacement you will need:
- A jack and handy stops to prevent the car from rolling.
- 2 sets of new pads.
- Grease, WD-40 or any other rust softener.
- Ruler.
- Phillips and flat head screwdriver.
- Hammer with drift.
- Pliers.
- Needle nose pliers.
- Keys for removing wheels.
- Rags.
Replacement of rear pads on VAZ 2101-2107 (CLASSICS) (Lada).
in the video I make the replacement
rear
pads for VAZ 2107
. By analogy, it changes to VAZ 2101,2102,2103,2104,2105,2106.
How to replace the front brake pads of a VAZ.
Replacement
front
brake pads
VAZ
cars , nuances when
replacing
.... VKontakte groups for remo...
Preparation
The work is best done on a flat, paved area - most typical garages will be a bit cramped. Find a suitable support in advance - hanging a car on a standard jack is dangerous, especially considering the state of the jacking sockets on cars, the youngest of which is almost ten years old. Also for work you will need:
- narrow nose pliers;
- a thin drift (at worst - a piece of 4 mm electrode or a thick nail);
- metal brush;
- powerful flat screwdriver;
- rubber bulb or large syringe.
First, you need to pump out the old brake fluid from the reservoir - when the working pistons are recessed, it can overflow, and replacing it with fresh one would be quite reasonable. It is worth placing stops under the wheels and, having removed the tightened bolts, hang the car, place a support under the threshold and release it down.
Front brake caliper parts
1 - piston; 2 — dust cap; 3 - sealing ring; 4 — caliper with cylinders; 5 — connecting tube of wheel cylinders; 6 — air release fitting; 7 — pad pressure springs; 8 — brake pad mounting pins; 9 — cotter pins; 10 — springs; 11 — lining wear indicator wire; 12 — brake pads.
How often should the pads be changed?
The need to replace this part on a VAZ 2107 depends on a large number of factors, including:
- regularity of maintenance;
- general condition of the brake mechanisms and the system as a whole;
- driving style;
- manufacturer, etc.
These criteria are quite sufficient. In addition to this, you can find out about the need to replace the pads by the behavior of the brake system. For example, if during a stop, extraneous sounds are observed - grinding, creaking, and so on. Does it require significant force to slow down? It's time to worry about buying new pads.
If the machine is equipped with low-quality parts, wear will be quite rapid. Pads from Ferodo, Nippon, ATE - recognized quality and durability.
Using reliable products, replacement of this part will be required once every 25 thousand km.
It is important to note that installing the right or left block separately is strictly prohibited. These works are performed in pairs on each axis.
Symptoms of a problem
With the front pads, everything is simple - you can determine their wear visually by removing the stamped disc. And if the car has a “casting”, then without dismantling the wheel at all. With drum pads everything is much more difficult. They are hidden under the lid. Not every car owner will remove it in the hope of detecting imminent wear and tear. As for the resource, no one gives specific figures. It all depends purely on driving style. But in any case, the rear pads last longer than the front ones. The resource of these elements usually ranges from 100 to 170 thousand kilometers. • There are only two characteristic signs. The first is a weak handbrake. Many will think that the cable has stretched (after all, the mileage is no longer low) and, having tightened it, will continue to use the car. But the cable is not always the cause of the malfunction. If the thickness of the pads is minimal, the travel of the parking brake lever will increase, since more force is required to compress them. • Another sign is how responsive the car is to the brake pedal. So, when the rear pads wear out, the car will slow down slower. And if the linings are worn down to the metal base, then the problem will be accompanied by creaking and overheating of the drum. The latter factor can lead to the brakes jamming, which is extremely dangerous. The manufacturer notes that the minimum thickness of the pads on the rear drums should be 1.5 millimeters.
Step by step replacement
1. Remove the wheel mounting bolts and place them on a jack.
2. Unscrew the bolts and dismantle the wheel.
3. Remove the stopper pins that guide the pads. We take it out using pliers by pulling it towards ourselves.
4. Remove the 2 brackets that press down on the pads.
5. Use pliers to remove the guide pins. We take it out so that the pads are free, there is no need to remove them completely.
6. Using plumbing pliers, press the brake pistons through the old pads on both sides.
7. Remove the used pads.
8. Install the pads.
9. We install the pins of the pads and secure them with stoppers. If the hole for installing the stopper is missing, use pliers to rotate the pin.
10. We install the brackets that press down the pads. Don't forget the pads are changed on the same axis.
Cost of brake pads for VAZ 2107
The price of high-quality pads for a classic VAZ, of course, depends on the lining materials used, technological features and manufacturer.
Front pads for VAZ 2107 | |||||
Brand | TIIR (original) | Allied Nippon | AND THOSE | Ferodo | Finwhale |
vendor code | 2101-3501090 | ADB 0281 | 13.0460-2966.2 | FDB 96 | V 211 |
Price | 260 rub. | 340 rub. | 700 rub. | 430 rub. | 370 rub. |
Rear pads for VAZ 2107 | |||
Brand | VAZ (original) | TSN | ATE |
vendor code | 2101-3502090 | TSN 2.3.1 | 03.0137-0232.2 |
Price | 750 rub. | 500 rub. | 1240 rub. |
It should also be emphasized that there are now a lot of fake brake pads for such a popular car. Therefore, choose only trusted manufacturers and pay attention to the packaging, configuration and labeling on the products. For example, the Ferodo brand uses tape with red or blue stripes to seal a box of pads.
About choosing pads
Today on store shelves you can find a lot of pads from a variety of manufacturers, both well-known and not so well-known. In addition, there are a lot of counterfeits that copy products from well-known brands. It is often very difficult to recognize these fakes, so the only criterion for a novice driver here will be the price. You should understand: a set of four high-quality pads cannot cost 200 rubles. So which pads should you choose given the abundance available on the market? Today, the owner of the “seven” has three options:
Replacing the front pads of a VAZ 2107
To replace the pads you must perform the following steps:
- Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
- Treat the pad guide pins with WD-40.
- Remove the cotter pins from the fingers using pliers.
- Using a hammer and a bit (or a thin screwdriver), knock out the pins and remove the springs that press the pads.
- Separate the pads using a strong screwdriver or pry bar.
- Remove the old front pads of the VAZ 2107.
- Check the thickness and condition of the brake disc. If it is deformed or less than 9mm thick, replace it.
- Press in the brake cylinder pistons completely. This can be done by inserting the old pads into place and spreading them all the way using a pry bar.
- Insert new front brake pads on the VAZ 2107.
- Insert the pins of the front pads and secure them with cotter pins.
- Install the pad springs.
- Press the brake pedal several times so that the pistons come out of the brake cylinders and compress the pads.
- Install the wheel and lower the jack.
After replacing the VAZ 2107 pads on one wheel, you need to replace them on the second.
At the end of the operation, you should check the brake fluid level and add it if necessary.
Replacing rear brake pads on VAZ 2101-2107 cars
Reasons why you should start replacing the rear brake pads on VAZ-2101, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Classic cars:
- The thickness of the rear brake pads is less than 2mm
- The lining of one of the pads has come off the metal surface (brake pads are always replaced as a set).
- oil or brake fluid getting on the linings.
List of tools and choice of work location for replacing rear brake pads on VAZ-2101-2107, Classic cars. Everything is simple here. It is better to carry out the work on a viewing hole or a lift, for two reasons - convenient access to the parking brake adjustment mechanism and the ability to quickly remove a stuck rear brake drum. An arsenal of necessary tools: a hammer, pliers, socket wrenches for 12, 13 and 7. Also, a special hook for removing and installing the tension springs of the rear brake pads will be useful. You can make such a device yourself or buy its analogue at the car market. Yes, you can do without it, using a screwdriver or pliers, but it will waste much more nerves.
And now the actual process of replacing the rear brake pads:
- After installing the car on the inspection hole, first unscrew the nut for adjusting the tension of the handbrake cable.
2. Loosen the wheel bolts and jack up the car. Unscrew the bolts and remove the wheel. We tap the guide bolts with a hammer and use a 12 wrench (in some cases a 7) or pliers to unscrew them.
- As a rule, the brake drum does not want to be removed, since it manages to become thoroughly stuck to the axle shaft over a certain period of time. There are two ways to solve the problem of dismantling the drum. The first way is to spray the brake drum with penetrating lubricant and, using two M8 bolts, try to tear the drum off the axle shaft. Often this is a long and ineffective way. The second method is to take a wooden block and a hammer and decisively and quickly knock down the brake drum.
- After removing the drum, the first thing we pay attention to is the position of the parking brake lever. If you have completely unscrewed the handbrake cable adjustment nut, and the lever is not near the block, then the handbrake cable is bitten and must be replaced with a new one. If you leave it as it is, then after installing new pads, it will be problematic to tighten the drum, and the parking brake will not work.
- Next, remove the upper tension spring. We press on the cup of the support post, scroll it until the slot in the cup matches the shank and remove the two cups and springs from the post. After this, all that remains is to remove the tail of the parking brake cable from the lever. We clean the support disk from dirt and rust. We check the condition of the brake cylinder; if there are signs of brake fluid leakage, the cylinder should be replaced with a new one. The same must be done if the pistons of the brake cylinder have become sour and have lost mobility.
Completion
Having installed the wheels, the fastening bolts are pulled by hand or “with a jerk” - spinning the wheel so that it reaches the bolt with its inertia. The final tightening is carried out when the car is released on the wheels, while the normal tightening torque is no more than 120 Newton meters; greater force will not improve the reliability of the fastening, but will only wear out the threads in the hubs more intensively.
When the working pistons are retracted, liquid will again appear in the reservoir of the main brake cylinder. Pump it out again and fill it with fresh water until about 0, then move the pistons to the working position by pressing the brake pedal until its movement returns to normal. Refill the brake fluid to the upper mark, and the car is ready for further use.
The life and health of the driver and passengers depend on the condition of the braking system. Owners of “sevens” often independently monitor the condition and replace the brake pads of the car. This is a simple operation that does not require special tools or high qualifications. It is enough to have basic plumbing skills and know how to change brake pads on a VAZ 2107.
Sources
- https://semerkavaz.ru/tormoznaya-sistema/zamena-kolodok-na-vaz-2107/
- https://FokSevmash.ru/elektronika/tormoznye-kolodki-vaz-2107.html
- https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/tormoza/zamena-perednih-tormoznyh-kolodok-na-vaz-2107.html
- https://drive2.su/pod-kapotom/zamena-perednix-kolodok-vaz-2107
- https://arhexport.ru/obsluzhivanie/zamena-perednih-kolodok-na-vaz-2107-2105-svoimi-rukami.html
- https://ovaze.ru/81-perednie-tormoza.html
- https://DamskyKlub.ru/obsluzhivanie-avto/zamena-perednix-tormoznyx-kolodok-klassika.html
- https://kalina-2.ru/otechestvennie-avto/kak-menjat-tormoznye-kolodki-na-vaz-2107
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