Fuel pump VAZ Priora 16 valves faulty solutions

In a situation where the fuel pump on a Lada Priora car does not work, the causes of the problem are not so difficult to detect. But if a problem occurs somewhere along the road, then without fixing the problem you will not be able to continue your journey and you will have to look for a way to tow the car to the nearest service station. But not all faults related to the fuel supply are fatal; some of them can be detected and eliminated independently.

The fuel pump does not work on the Lada Priora: reasons

Common mistakes

You can use our instructions in one case: when the fuel pump does not work, but other systems are working properly. Sometimes the engine does not start for several reasons at once. And then you need to reduce the pressure like this: wait 5-6 hours, and do not turn on the ignition. Be careful!

Actually, the ramp is under pressure

You can find out about the presence of pressure in the standard way:

Open the hood;
There is a fitting on the fuel rail, closed with a plastic cap. It is turned away (photo 1);
Using the nipple cap (photo 2) you can unscrew the fitting plug. This action is performed carefully: the residual pressure has not disappeared anywhere.

Even if gasoline starts to gush out, do not try to tighten the fitting right away. Let the pressure drop a little.

Diagnostic connection and plug

Trying to fix a fuel pump is commendable. It will be possible to change its mesh. But the cause of the problem may also be a clogged fine filter.

The replacement filter (“can” 2112-1117010) gradually fails. On all fuel-injected cars, including the VAZ-2112, the fuel pump will not stop working even if the filter is completely clogged. Fuel is not pumped, but the engine does not burn out.

The fuel pump sounds and pumps - does that mean everything is in order?

A radical test measure is to connect the battery to the connector. The module itself must be in the tank! A working pump operates quietly. If the motor is humming, it’s time to change the fuel pump; if it’s ringing, find the cause and fix it.

Location and operation of the fuel pump

The fuel pump in the Lada Priora car operates from an electric drive, which is turned on after turning the key to the ignition position. Within a few seconds, it pumps fuel into the fuel system so that the pressure in it reaches 3.7 bar, while a characteristic low buzzing sound is heard inside the cabin. When the pressure mark is reached, you can start the engine.

The unit works continuously, just because of the noise of the motor, the sound made by the pump is no longer audible. A special RTD regulator with a bypass valve maintains the required pressure in the fuel line.

The whirring of the fuel pump can be heard inside the car because it is located inside the fuel tank, located under the rear seat of the Priora. There is also a built-in fuel coarse strainer and a level sensor with a float. Gasoline pumped by the pump is supplied to the injectors through a fuel line tube made of thick-walled copper tube.

Symptoms of unit malfunction

Malfunctions of the Priora fuel supply pump can manifest themselves in different ways.

Sometimes it fails completely, in other cases it maintains too low pressure in the system. Symptoms of problems are:

after turning the key in the ignition switch, the characteristic sound of the fuel pump is absent, and the engine does not start;
when the ignition is turned on, the pump pumps, the power unit starts, but when you try to move away, the engine stalls and starts with difficulty;
The car jerks while driving, stalls and does not want to start.

The first symptom indicates a malfunction in the electrical circuit that supplies power to the unit. Also, a complete failure may be the result of a breakdown of the pumping device itself, and it has to be replaced. Fortunately, such breakdowns are quite rare. Electric fuel pumps installed on VAZ cars are considered quite reliable devices and operate without problems for 150-200 thousand km.

The remaining 2 symptoms indicate that the amount of fuel supplied to the injectors is not enough for normal driving. If the car somehow starts and idles, then there is no longer enough fuel to move. Since the characteristic symptoms of low pressure in the line are similar to the symptoms of problems with other units and systems, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics and more accurately determine the cause.

Manufacturers and prices of analogues

What car owners expect from analogues is maintaining normal pressure in the fuel supply system. If the electrical system is quite weak, there is no point in installing it. There is a list of proven devices for supplying fuel to the engine, which have been well rated by other owners and are suitable in their parameters for replacing the standard device:

Soate 21101-1139-01, price – 1,600 rubles.
Bosch 0580-453-453, cost – 4,500 rubles.
Pekar 2110-11139009-00, price 3,100 rubles.
Stellox 10-01202-SX, cost – 1,000 rubles.
Stellox 10-01680-SX, cost – 3,000 rubles.
STARNER 2112-11390-09, cost – 1000 rubles.
Masuma MPU-103, cost – 2,800 rubles.
Denso DFP-0105, priced at RUB 3,200.

Diagnosis and Troubleshooting

It is relatively simple to verify that the electrical network is faulty - this can be done without removing the fuel pump. When the sound of its operation is not heard when the ignition is turned on, you must immediately check the fuse responsible for this circuit. It is installed in a block mounted at the bottom in front of the front passenger seat. You need to remove the block cover, find the fuse marked F3, rated for 15 A, and replace it. This kind of work can be done on the road.

If the operation of the fuel pump has not resumed, you should switch your attention to relay K2, located in the same block. It closes the power circuit of the pumping device based on a signal from the controller. You can also check the serviceability of the relay in road conditions, for which you will need a piece of copper wire. Diagnostics are carried out in the following order:

Remove relay K2 from the connector.
Turn on the ignition.
Using a wire, connect the contacts marked “30” and “87”; the numbers are marked on the relay. Another option is to apply power to pin “11” located in the diagnostic connector. The +12 V voltage can be taken nearby, from the cigarette lighter.
If you hear the pump humming, then you need to change relay K2.

If after the above manipulations the unit is still “silent”, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wiring and the reliability of the contact at the place of its connection. This will require a device, so it will not be possible to carry out such work in the middle of a field. Unless you can check the serviceability of the fuel pump itself by disconnecting the connectors from it and supplying 12 V directly from any convenient source. If the pump still does not hum, it should be replaced.

Be careful when connecting wires directly and make sure that there are no drops of gasoline nearby, as a spark may cause it to ignite.

It will not be possible to diagnose insufficient fuel supply to the injectors under road conditions, unless you carry a pressure gauge with a corresponding hose for connection to the fuel rail. The amount of gasoline supplied is characterized by the pressure in the network, to measure which you will need a pressure gauge. The check is performed as follows:

Twist off the plastic cap covering the diagnostic fitting. It is located at the end of the fuel rail and is a regular spool.
Press the spool rod to release the pressure in the line. In case of gasoline leakage, place a small container under the spool. Perhaps the malfunction will make itself felt already at this stage if there is no pressure in the network and no fuel flows from the fitting.
Unscrew the spool and put the hose from the pressure gauge onto the fitting. With the ignition off, apply 12 V directly to the pump. To clearly record the readings, it must work for at least 10 seconds.

If the pressure is below 3.6 bar, you must first change the coarse filter. If this does not help, then you will have to check the RTD and the tightness of the injectors. This is the only way to accurately determine the source of the problem.

Source

Causes: fuse, relay, connector

The pump power circuit includes many elements: closed relay contacts 5, fuse 3 (15 A), “+” wire, “pump-to-ground” wire. The most “difficult” defect is a short circuit of the “+” wire to ground. By the way, the cord itself is laid on metal, so such a defect cannot be ruled out.

Mounting block for dashboard

Both the relay and the fuse are located in a block located under the dashboard on the right. A fuse can blow in two cases:

The “+” cord makes contact with ground;
The motor resistance decreases due to overheating.

The first defect may be “floating”, and then it will be difficult to identify. But before calling an electrician, try checking everything else:

Relay 5 should click twice: when the ignition is turned on and after 1.5 s. If this does not happen, replace the relay;
Check fuse 3. If it is blown, you need to look for the cause.

Consider the situation: the relay is working, but the fuse is blown. Then we do this: disconnect the pump connector, install a new fuse and measure the voltage at the terminals. Details are below.

Connectors under the hatch, disconnecting them

You need to remove the hatch under the rear seat: two screws are unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. Next you need to disconnect the connector on the module, and then move on to the block under the dashboard.

First, turn off the fuel pump!

Replace the fuse. Let's move on to the fuel pump: connect the probe (zero cord) to any of the mounting studs. Voltage should appear on the “gray” wire when the ignition is turned on. And also check the potential difference between the “gray” and “black” wires - it should be equal to 12 volts, and also at the moment the ignition is turned on. Wiring:

The two outer cords are the FLS sensor;
“Black” – minus power supply;
"Grey" is a plus.

The "black wire" sometimes loses contact with ground. At the last step, we checked exactly this version.

There are reviews from owners that say: the fuel pump on a VAZ-2112 does not work if the electric motor is working properly and there is voltage in the connector. This happens when the contacts of the internal terminal block oxidize (see photo).

Internal connector - yellow

Getting to the connector on the motor is not easy - you need to remove the fuel pump module by unscrewing 8 nuts around the perimeter.

Safety precautions

Before unscrewing the nuts, you need to disconnect the two hoses. But first try starting the engine. The power supply to the fuel pump is not connected.

Please note - the power is turned off here!

Everything is ready for dismantling if:

External connector is disabled;
It is impossible to start the engine, although the on-board network is not de-energized;
It is better if the tank is filled less than 50%.

You need to unscrew two fittings from the module cover (top photo). Then use a socket wrench to unscrew the nuts from the studs and remove the retaining ring.

There is very little left to the internal connector

Having gained access to the internal connector, you need to clean its contacts. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Good luck!

Oxidation of the terminals of the internal connector is a typical disease of the VAZ-2112 fuel pump, and only one of the contacts does not work. The “+” terminal is more often oxidized.

Checking the fuel pump Lada Kalina/Granta

If after turning the ignition key there is no buzzing sound from the fuel pump, then the first thing to check is the fuel pump fuse and relay. In the Lada Kalina and Lada Granta mounting block, the fuel pump fuse is F21 (15A), and the fuel pump relay is K12. If the fuse is good, do the following:

Turn on the ignition
Remove the fuel pump relay
Apply +12V to pin No. 11 of the diagnostic block, or place a jumper between 87 and 30 relay pins
Check by ear that the fuel pump is turned on

If the fuel pump does not turn off, then check:

Wiring and contacts between the fuel pump and the diagnostic block/fuel pump relay. To do this, check the voltage at the fuel pump chip using a test lamp or multimeter.
There is no connection between the fuel pump and the vehicle ground. Apply the mixture to the fuel pump (located under the rear seat).
The fuel pump is faulty. To check it, apply +12V directly to the contacts of the fuel pump (Attention! Remaining gasoline may ignite from a spark!).

In rare cases, the fuel pump does not work due to:

ECU (controller) malfunction
alarm malfunctions

Why may the starter not turn?

If the start occurs in a cold or frosty environment, then several attempts should be made before starting to troubleshoot. In case of a complete fiasco, when when you turn on the relay clicks and the indication on the panel goes out, you need to do the following:

make sure the battery is charged;
check whether all the wires coming from the battery are cold - the presence of heating indicates poor contact (the terminals need to be cleaned);
see whether the battery connectors are securely connected to the ground, and whether it is securely connected to the body of the car (existent contaminants are eliminated);
make sure that the plus on the starter contact is holding well.

The traction relay is disconnected from the wiring if there is doubt about the normal operation of the ignition switch. Then the key is set to start, and a multimeter is used to check the presence of voltage directly at the removed connector.

When none of the above helps, you will need to dismantle the starter itself.

Checking the fuel pump Lada Priora

On the Lada Priora, the fuel pump relay and its fuse are located in an additional mounting block near the left foot of the front passenger. The fuse is marked F3 (15A), and the relay is K2.

First of all, we check the fuel pump fuse, and if necessary, replace it with a similar new one. We check the wiring and the fuel pump itself in the same way as on Lada Kalina and Lada Granta cars (see above).

As a reminder, don't forget to change your fuel filter regularly.

Source

Why the Lada Priora fuel pump does not pump and what to do

What to do if the fuel pump of the Lada Priora has stopped pumping: reasons, solutions

If the pump stops working properly or works every once in a while, as a rule, the engine does not start (16 valves). This happens for the following reasons:

tank fuse blown;
tank relay is faulty;
the gas tank itself is faulty;
problems with wiring and adjacent contacts;
problem with the controller;
problems with the alarm system, etc.

The fuel pump does not work on the Lada Priora

On the Lada Priora passenger car, as on other cars with an injection engine, the operating algorithm of the electric fuel pump is as follows:

- as soon as the driver turns on the ignition, he should hear within 3-4 seconds the noise of the fuel pump starting, which raises the gasoline pressure in the fuel rail so that the engine can start normally;

— after the pressure in the fuel rail rises, the fuel pump turns off;

— next, the driver turns the ignition key to the “starter” position, as a result of which the engine crankshaft begins to rotate and the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) is immediately activated, the pulses of which go to the electronic control unit (ECU);

— The ECU, in turn, turns on the relay, when the contacts of which are closed, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the fuel pump and if it is working properly, it will begin to perform its function, which is to supply gasoline from the tank to the fuel rail;

— and if the crankshaft stops rotating, the DPKV will stop sending pulses to the ECU, which will de-energize the relay, its contacts will open and the fuel pump will stop working;

Knowing this algorithm, it is much easier for the driver to find a malfunction as a result of which the fuel pump refuses to work. But it is worth adding that all electrical circuits are protected by fuses and troubleshooting usually begins with checking them. Considering that there are two options for turning on the fuel pump: the ignition key in the “ignition on” position and the ignition key in the “starter” position. Then you will have to check two fuses, which are located in the side of the tunnel on the front passenger side.

When the ignition is turned on, electric current from the battery flows through fuse F1 (15 A) into the circuit of the main relay K1, which supplies plus to the coil of the fuel pump relay, as a result of which its contacts are closed and voltage is supplied to the terminals of the fuel pump. After a few seconds, the controller, having collected the necessary information, turns off the main relay, and since the electric current went to the fuel pump through it, the fuel pump naturally turns off. And when the ignition key is turned to the “starter” position, the electric current from the battery flows through fuse F3 (15 A), and the fuel pump relay K2 turns on the ECU, according to the DCPV signal. That is why the driver needs to check both fuses.

If at least one of the above devices fails, even a working fuel pump will not work. You can check the condition of the fuel pump itself by applying voltage to its terminals directly from the battery.

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Starter operating principle

This device itself is a conventional electric motor. A gear is installed on it, which meshes with the flywheel, which rotates when the power unit starts. A traction relay is also attached to the housing. The functions of this element include:

gear movement control;
starter disconnection.

When the key is turned to the starting position, voltage is supplied to the relay, exciting the electromagnet windings, then the contacts close. At the same time, the gear begins to rotate and the motor starts.

Signs of fuel pump malfunctions

The main symptoms of fuel pump failure, as well as malfunctions in its operation, are:

the car starts with difficulty, the engine runs unstable, there are dips, jerking when pressing the gas pedal, etc.;
the pump does not pump after turning on the ignition, does not turn the starter and does not pump the fuel pump, the engine does not start;

There have also been cases when the fuel pump stops pumping while driving. In such a situation, the engine begins to malfunction and stalls immediately after the remaining gasoline in the fuel line is used up. The problem can occur either regularly or periodically.

How to remove the electric starter

The procedure in this case is as follows:

remove the terminals from the battery;
the “plus” connector is removed from the starter;
removed from the relay block;
The nuts securing the faulty unit are unscrewed.

Then you can safely remove it.

Next you will need to check the functionality of the relay. To do this, take emergency wires to start from another car. The negative one is installed on the battery and on the starter housing. “Plus” is connected to the relay. The latter in this case (if it works properly) is triggered and moves the gear. The absence of this reaction indicates a breakdown of this element.

When there is no reason to suspect the relay, you need to try to start the starter itself. The “minus” remains in place, and the “plus” is set to the lower output of the relay. The motor should start working. A negative result indicates wear of the graphite brushes.

The fuel pump does not pump: causes and diagnostics

Let's start with the fact that if the gas tank is full, the battery is charged, the spark plugs are dry and there is a spark, the starter turns the engine normally, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the gas pump. A common problem is that there is no power to the fuel pump after the ignition is turned on. In a similar way, the malfunction manifests itself in motion, when the power to the fuel pump is lost and the engine suddenly stalls.

An equally important point is how much the fuel pump pumps. In other words, the pump may hum and buzz (power is being supplied), but not create the required pressure in the fuel line. The pressure in the fuel system with a working fuel pump must be more than 3 bar (which depends on the specific car model). The indicated pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has an indicator of 300 kPa and above.

To check, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, taking into account the indicators that are the norm for a specific car model. Using the example of injection VAZs, the pressure when the ignition is turned on is 3 atmospheres, at idle the figure is 2.5 atmospheres, when you press the gas 2.5-3 atmospheres. This method will help you accurately determine:

malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator in the rail;
breakdown of the fuel pump or a noticeable decrease in its performance due to wear;
severe contamination of filters (fuel filter and/or fuel pump mesh);

In the second case, when you press the gas, the pressure does not increase; in the latter case, the pressure gauge needle rises, but very slowly or jerkily.

A decrease in pressure below the norm will lead to the fact that the engine may not start or start with difficulty, stall, jerk, operate unstably and with failures. If this happens due to the fault of the pump and not the fuel filter, then there is a high probability that the coarse filter screen of the fuel pump is clogged. In this case, there is no need to change the fuel pump itself, since it will be enough to replace or even clean the mesh.

If you suspect that there is no voltage to the fuel pump, there is a quick way to check. It is enough to turn the ignition key and listen, as when you turn the key you should hear a slight hum from the fuel pump. If such a buzzing noise is not heard, it means there is no power to the fuel pump, there are problems with the wiring, etc.

Also in the general list of possible reasons why the fuel pump does not pump, the following are noted:

failure of the fuel pump fuse;
fuel pump relay failure;
problems with the ground of the fuel pump;
malfunction of the electric motor of the fuel pump;
oxidation or damage to fuel pump contacts and terminals;
the fuel pump itself is faulty;

Wiring to the fuel pump

On most cars, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: “plus”, “minus”, and also a wire for indicating the amount of fuel in the gas tank. If the fuel pump does not pump, then the cause may be a lack of power.

To check the power to the fuel pump, just take a 12-volt light bulb and supply it with power from the external connector of the fuel pump. After turning the ignition, the control lamp should light up. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the external circuits. If the lamp comes on, it will indicate the need to check the internal contacts of the fuel pump.

To check the external wiring, you should alternately connect the positive and negative contacts, which are removed from the fuel pump power connector, to the ground of the pump. The contacts must also be connected to the fuel pump relay. If you place the negative contact on ground, after which the ignition is turned on and the light comes on, then this means that this contact is faulty. If the light bulb does not light up, then problems with the “plus” are obvious. If you place a contact on the relay and the light comes on, there is probably damage to the wire on the section that connects the relay and the fuel pump itself.

Fuel pump electric motor

If checking the pressure in the fuel rail and the external wiring to the fuel pump gives positive results, then you should check the fuel pump motor. This electric motor is responsible for circulating gasoline inside the fuel pump.

When checking, you need to take into account that the terminals on the fuel pump themselves tend to oxidize, as a result of which power is not supplied and the pump does not pump. In this case, the motor is working, but the terminals need to be cleaned or re-soldered.

Fuel pump ground contact

Problems with the fuel pump mass may be indicated by a fuel level sensor that is not working correctly. The mass may be poorly secured; in this case, the fuel pump does not pump fuel. The ground wire is usually located under the dashboard and runs through the cabin. It is necessary to find the specified wire, check and clean all contacts, then securely fasten the ground to the fuel pump.

Fuel pump relay

When the ignition key is turned, the driver hears a characteristic click (the relay is turned on), then a similar click will indicate that the fuel pump relay is turned off. If such clicks are not heard, this indicates a malfunction of the relay or its contacts. The optimal solution would be to replace the fuel pump relay with a new or known-good device. Let us add that the cost of spare parts is quite affordable.

Fuel pump fuse

During diagnostics, be sure to check the fuel pump fuse. The specified 15 A fuse is usually located in the fuse box in the engine compartment and is marked FUEL PUMP, which means fuel pump.

The fuel pump fuse needs to be pulled out and its contact inspected. The integrity of the contact will indicate that the device is normal. A damaged contact will indicate that the fuel pump fuse has blown. In this case, you need to install a new fuse, which has a very low cost (as in the situation with the fuel pump relay).

Reasons for failure of the starting system

Most often the following happens:

For some reason the electric starter does not turn on - the reason is a broken wiring, short circuit or breakdown of the traction relay;
the starter starts, but an uncharacteristic clicking sound is heard - damage to the coil of the above relay or discharge of the battery;
the start works, but the starter does not turn or rotates too slowly - the battery is dead.

In addition, the reason here may lie in:

loss of contact;
brush wear;
collector contamination;
short circuit of the winding wires.

It also happens that the starter works normally, but the flywheel still does not rotate.

Here, first of all, you need to make sure that the attachment to the crater installed on the clutch is not broken. Then you will have to check the integrity of the teeth of the flywheel itself or the drive gear.

It happens that the 16-valve Priora does not turn off the starter after the power plant is factory installed. This happens due to a malfunction of the clutch that ensures the free movement of the unit in question. Sticking of the relay contact group also leads to the same result. If this malfunction occurs, you must immediately turn off the engine.

Problems with the Priora plant often arise due to ignition failure. In this case, you need to make sure that:

the coils are securely fastened to the power plant;
there was no break in the ignition wires in its low-voltage circuit;
whether the spark plugs are working (if there is no spark, you will need to replace the ignition coil).

And finally, it is impossible to start the engine if there is a breakdown in the power system. You will need to check the air filter. If it is not clogged, you need to inspect the connector contacts in the injection system (do not forget to also look at the fuel pump - if it does not make noise, then most likely there are problems with the electrical network) and make sure that the fuel pressure is normal.

Before performing the steps mentioned above, be sure to disconnect the negative connector on the battery. This should only be done with the ignition off.