How to change the gearbox seal on a Kalina

How to replace the oil seal

When the question arises of replacing the gearbox seal on a Kalina, many VAZ car owners don’t even know where to start. But the problem cannot be left to chance.

Auto repair tool set

Prepare the necessary tools: keys and sockets of different sizes, a screwdriver for prying off the oil seal, a small hammer.

Hang the car or park it in a pit

Replacing the Kalina gearbox oil seal will be more convenient if you hang the car or drive it into a pit. Do not forget about safety requirements: it is better to put the car on the handbrake or use wheel chocks.

Remove protection

To easily dismantle the manual transmission shift seal, you need to remove the protection. It is secured with 6 bolts.

First, unscrew the rear bolts, and after the protection sag, holding it, unscrew the front fastening. It is more convenient to carry out these operations using a 10mm head.

Remove the protection from under the car. Make sure the yoke boot is in oil. Otherwise, the cause may not be in the oil seal.

Disconnect the jet rod

Replacing the gearbox seal on a Kalina requires removing the jet rod, but not completely, but only that part that prevents you from getting to the cardan mount.

Using a spanner, unscrew the fastening from the end of the torque rod. Remove the required part.

Remember what position the torque rod shank is in so that there are no difficulties when reassembling the car.

Disconnect the cardan

After releasing the universal joint fastening, use a 10 mm spanner to unscrew the only fastening bolt. Difficulty may arise if you do not have a spanner on hand. It is difficult to unscrew the bolt with a regular open-end wrench, and there is not enough space for the head.

After unscrewing the fasteners, the cardan can be freely removed from the seat.

Remove the boot

After removing the cardan, you need to remove the boot (the rubber cover that covers the bushing and protects it from dust and dirt getting inside). But be careful, leaking oil may accumulate inside, so before removing it, carefully drain the remaining oil from the boot.

Gearbox boot

Pull off the boot that covers the desired gear selector shaft seal.

Remove the old oil seal

Replacing the Kalina gearbox oil seal is done using a screwdriver and a hammer, with which you need to knock out the bushing and the old cuff. Do not use too much force, otherwise you risk bending the bushing.

Install a new oil seal

Before changing the oil seal on the gearbox on the Kalina, it is necessary to clean and degrease the bushing. Pay attention to the stem. If you find burrs or scratches on it, do not rush to install a new oil seal - the problem lies in the box. Change the rod.

For further operation, you need a 22mm head or a pipe of suitable diameter for pressing the oil seal.

Which oil seal is better to install?

When replacing a gearbox seal on a Kalina, there are 2 choices of this product: regular and reinforced.

A regular seal is made twice as thin as a reinforced one, so the risk of it failing earlier is high. A reinforced one will last longer, and the risk of damaging it mechanically is low.

Many craftsmen manage to press two reinforced seals into the bushing, which provides greater reliability and protection against recurrent leaks. But you should press extremely carefully so as not to damage the bushing, which is made of soft material.

The price for a reinforced cuff does not exceed 200 rubles. The cost is low, but the part can save the car owner from expensive repairs. Therefore, at the slightest appearance of leaks in the area of the gearbox, it should be eliminated immediately.

Source

What indicates the need to replace it?

The primary signs of this problem are strange oil leaks in the gearbox area. Suspicious sounds when changing gears may alert you. A dirty rubber boot also indicates that it is time to change the reinforced cuff of the rocker. It could have been squeezed out of its seat, so oil is oozing out. Using a low-quality product accelerates wear and tear.

Wear and tear can be caused by long-term use or damage from machine impacts. Often under such circumstances the seat is damaged, so the box will need to be repaired.

What is the difference between a cable manual transmission and an ordinary viburnum?

What is this? Is the seal leaking? He's darling!

Jacked it up and removed the front left wheel:

I drained the oil from the box into a basin:

I hung them on a rope) They shouldn’t be hanging from the brake hoses! :

Unscrewed the ball joint from the hub:

We place a thick beam under the hub so that it does not twitch.

Unscrewed the steering knuckle:

Attention! I also unscrewed the two bolts securing the strut to the hub, because I decided to replace the “leaked” strut at the same time. If the rack does not require replacement, then these bolts:

Under no circumstances should you touch it, as it will disturb the wheel alignment. To maintain the “camber” you need to unscrew 3 nuts:

This will allow us to untie the strut from the body, thereby giving the hub more freedom to move when we pick out the CV joint from the leaking oil seal.

To pick out the CV joint we need a high-tech tool:

We insert the end of the nail puller into the gap between the box and the CV joint:

and begin to furiously uproot the CV joint from the oil seal. It comes out very tight! Therefore, you need to do it fiercely)

There is a retaining ring at the end of the CV joint. It must be alive!

We uproot the old oil seal:

We insert a new oil seal. I stuck it in like this: I leaned the old one against the new one and lightly hit the old one with a hammer.

Afterwards, you need to hammer the CV joint back. It should not be particularly bent relative to the shaft. The straighter you keep the CV joint on the shaft, the better.

I inserted the CV joint, supported the shaft, supported the hub and hit the hub a couple of times with a sledgehammer through a wooden board. The CV joint is in place.

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Rubber or rubber trees. They produce rubber or rubber resin in abundance, i.e. the milky sap of the bark, and more often the sap of the internal cells of woody tissue, is very viscous, viscous and flexible, and does not harden much afterwards.

It grows in fertile soils in the tropical forests of the Amazon River in Brazil.

Stories from our readers

“Fucking basin. "

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Yes, I had matured morally, but financially I just couldn’t handle it. I’ll say right away that I am against loans and taking a car, especially not a new one, on credit is unreasonable. My salary is 24k a month, so collecting 600-700 thousand is almost impossible for me. I started looking for different ways to make money on the Internet. You can’t imagine how many scams there are, what I haven’t tried: sports betting, network marketing, and even the volcano casino, where I successfully lost about 10 thousand ((The only direction in which it seemed to me that I could make money was currency trading on the stock exchange, they call it Forex. But when I started delving into it, I realized that it was very difficult for me. I continued to dig further and came across binary options. The essence is the same as in Forex, but it’s much easier to understand. I started reading forums, studying trading strategies. I tried it on a demo account, then opened a real account. To be honest, I didn’t manage to start earning money right away, until I understood all the mechanics of options, I lost about 3,000 rubles, but as it turned out, it was a precious experience. Now I earn 5-7 thousand rubles a day. I managed to get the car buy after half a year, but in my opinion this is a good result, and it’s not about the car, my life has changed, I naturally quit my job, I have more free time for myself and my family. You’ll laugh, but I work directly on the phone)) If If you want to change your life like me, then here’s what I advise you to do right now: 1. Register on the site 2. Practice on a Demo account (it’s free). 3. As soon as you get something on the Demo account, top up your REAL ACCOUNT and go to REAL MONEY! I also advise you to download the application to your phone, it’s much more convenient to work from your phone. Download here.

To replace the “ten” cardan you will need a pit, keys for 10 and 13:

The gearbox control rod joint is hidden under the boot.
We remove the boot and move it to the gearbox.
Loosen the clamp bolt to 13, loosen it a little and pull the link off the hinge. Then unscrew the 10mm bolt that secures the hinge on the gear selector rod and remove the hinge.
We install a new hinge without play on the gear selector rod and secure it with a 10-point bolt. To prevent it from turning away from vibrations, we lubricate it with a thread locker.

We put the boot and the drawstring in place and adjust it.
After that we do a test drive. If everything is good, then tighten the clamp. There is an opinion that before installing the glass you need to saw off its tip a little, in fact, everything installs perfectly without sawing. After adjustment, the gearshift lever is located exactly in the middle.

Impressions from the backlash-free driveshaft of the Lada Kalina on a VAZ 2110

It seems that the lateral travel of the lever has decreased. The difference is especially noticeable while driving than when parked. Gear changes have become clearer, there is no “yaw” movements of the lever.

However, do not forget about gearbox vibration . If previously these vibrations were transmitted to the rocker and were partially damped by the play of the standard cardan, now they are transferred in full force to the gearshift knob, which causes rattling, which has to be dealt with over time.

Sources:

https://wiki.zr.ru/127-2_%D0%A0%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%BD%D1%82_Kalina https://litezona.ru/shtok-vybora-peredach -kalina/ https://ru.megasos.com/wiki/zamena%20salnika-kpp-na-lada-kalina https://avtoazbuka.net/lada-kalina-lada-1117-1119/mekhanizm-vybora-peredach- kpp-vaz-1118-2c-vaz-2190-detail https://xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai/tuning-other/524-ustanovka-kardanc

Replacing the gearbox seal on a Lada Kalina (VAZ Lada Kalina)

The gearbox requires special attention from the car enthusiast. Of course, most faults can be diagnosed by uncharacteristic sounds or difficulties in shifting gears. But there are breakdowns that are immediately invisible to the eye, but in the future can lead to big troubles and serious costs. In particular, one of such malfunctions is the occurrence of oil leakage due to failure of the gearbox seal.

How to diagnose?

A malfunction of the oil seal can be noticed by the appearance of characteristic oil stains under the car in the area of the gearbox or by routine inspection of the underbody of the vehicle from a pit. There are no other obvious signs that would indicate the presence of such problems. Therefore, the driver must be extremely attentive to his iron horse, inspect it from time to time for leaks and promptly correct the malfunction by replacing the oil seal.

Most car enthusiasts immediately go to the service station. The reason here is simple - they are simply afraid of doing something wrong. In fact, replacing the oil seal on a Lada Kalina will not cause any problems if you have the necessary tools on hand and strictly follow the instructions. Step by step, you can put everything through your own hands and save thousands of rubles on paying for the services of a master.

Text version

Three when we Ritalin joy hello everyone in today’s quick video I’ll show you how to do it correctly and easier. In total, replace the rocker seal, the shift rod seal of the family, you start with the eight, and end with them with instruments, I don’t know, but on grants, well, in short.

According to Prior, one hundred percent of tens are included in 11.

In short, everything on the 9th box means many of you, but who are least likely to encounter repairs.

The problem is that the oil seal is very deep. And it’s not always possible to pick it out from there, but there are cases. When this seal is actually on the rod, when we pull the pieces, it moves in this body, that is, the internal part of the guide is tighter.

Much than the outer one sits, this is also the problem of these seals, two seals grow each so that! One of the other was holding, that is, and the joke here is that someone before me, in short, also held a spring.

I put it, that is, it’s so purely in short, so that the seal, that is, the person gets out of the situation. Somehow, that is, he fooled the spring into the recording, I’m just now.

I’ll show you what you need to do, firstly, what’s the easiest way to get the oil seal out? Is this one of the simplest ways? But also how to make it so that it actually doesn’t slide along the outer part of this body: We use the oil seal itself, which is easier and more convenient than Vanya.

Replacing the backstage oil seal of a VAZ 2108-10

We push the flat mount somewhere on the side and you need to pull it out! Guys, it’s just this body of this oil seal that sits on the sealant: From the factory and in the future it’s generally correct that they don’t sit on the sealant in the same way, don’t worry.

Oil will not flow from here, that is, if it has accumulated there! During operation before, but there were a couple of drops of some kind.

Will we now prepare to dig up further before the production? This is the seal that actually left with his hand, only Sean walked with his fingers now.

There are new questions, there are just 2 of them here, we just see this situation and who is the top 20 with a finger, they are not all:

So, in short, you can put the sealant on the bottom one. More tightly, this is another one of someone’s life hacks when they install two oil seals, which means we’ve removed the body, now we’re going to clean it.

We knock out the seal with mine and then your task. I measured this oil seal, which should stand here as it stands now, and measure about millimeters from here. 6 7 and with a thin turner we make well little things 6 picks of opinions along the axis like this 2 like this 2 so 2 divided into 6 parts.

And we make lazy people bullshit, thereby ethical opinions will come out inside ours.

Replacing the oil seal and boot of the gearbox rod (glass) of a VAZ 2110

The housing is here and when you are in suny, those oil seals are pre-smeared on the outside with sealant.

Removal and installation of the gearbox

Servicing the gearbox assumes that the mechanism will have to be removed and its position changed. Before doing this, you need to install the vehicle itself on the lift. The ignition must be turned off completely and the parking brake must be used.

How to repair a gearbox? To do this, disconnect the minus terminal from the battery. The hood must be opened completely. Any manual on gearbox repairs writes about this.

The oil filler cap is also removed. It is necessary to install the previous item after the screen is removed. The gearbox requires loosening the clamp responsible for fixing it. The inlet pipe hose must be disconnected from the corresponding sensor. Gearbox lever play requires the same actions in practice. Then you need to unscrew the air intake nut.

The gearbox can be installed in its original place after the 1st speed repair is completed. SHRUS-4 lubricant is applied to the outer surface of the corresponding bushing in the clutch in a very thin layer. This will also help if the gearbox is loose. The pin fixing bolts are removed from the steering knuckles.

conclusions

Replacing the gear selector oil seal on a VAZ-2114 is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Probably, every motorist, even a novice, can handle it on his own, but if not, then it is recommended to contact a car service center. Particular attention should be paid to the choice of parts, or more precisely to the quality of the product. The better the quality of the spare part, the longer it will last.

The article will discuss whether it is difficult to replace the Lacetti gear selector rod seal with your own hands and what nuances may arise when performing this work.

For a long time, the gear shift rod oil seal sweated a little. Then the sweating gradually turned into a big sweat and the box imperceptibly turned black. And the general appearance became like this

Therefore, it was decided to solve this problem when favorable weather conditions occur.

This day has come. Honestly, the work of replacing the rod seal can be completed in an hour and a half. But that’s if you don’t run around with a camera, like me. Plus, there were problems with the rod, so my process took 5 hours! But first things first.

The necessary spare parts for this procedure were purchased in advance:

rod pin
pin retainer
pad
White's bottle for washing off all this dirt (thinner, gasoline, etc.)
and, in fact, the oil seal itself

To work you will need a minimum set of tools:

11mm socket with matching wrench
small screwdriver
hammer
thin beard
tassel
metal brush
17 mm wrench

How to replace wheel drive seals Lada Kalina

The front wheel drive seals can be replaced without removing the gearbox.

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

Drain the oil from the gearbox.

Remove the left and right front wheel drives (see “Removing the front wheel drives”).

1. Use an impact puller to press out the right drive oil seal.

Press out the left drive oil seal in the same way.

2. If there is no impact puller, you can press it out with a mounting blade.

The gearbox can be equipped with two types of oil seals: both with and without oil drainage notches.

Oil seals without notches are interchangeable for left and right drives. Seals with notches differ:

at the left drive oil seal the arrow on the housing points counterclockwise, at the right drive it points clockwise

3. Using a mandrel of suitable diameter, press in a new oil seal for the right wheel drive.

You can use the old oil seal as a mandrel when pressing.

Similarly, press in the left wheel drive oil seal.

Apply a thin layer of transmission oil to the working edges of the oil seals

Most likely causes of leakage

The most common cause of lubricant leakage is defects:

It is not difficult to identify a seal defect; there is oil leakage only around it or under it. If the problem is in the gasket, then traces of transmission fluid will go along the junction of the body parts of the unit. If the bottom of the unit is covered with an oil-mud mixture, but everything is clean on the sides and top, most likely the problem is a crack in the housing. Below we will talk about each of the reasons in more detail.

Damage to the drive shaft seal

This defect occurs on all types of gearboxes, including AMT and automatic transmission. If the Kalina gearbox drive seal is leaking, then the main sign of such a defect is the dirty surface of the box around the drive included in it (constant velocity joint), and the mixture of dirt and soil will be not only from below, but also from above. The cause of this defect is:

aggressive driving with frequent sharp accelerations and accelerations;
the service life of the oil seal is too long (it is advisable to change them every 3 years);
poor quality or incorrectly installed oil seal;
custom grenade;
Damage to the constant velocity joint shaft.

Transmission oil leaking from the shaft block
. To determine the exact cause, you need to wash the box from accumulated dirt, then pull out the drive shaft. If the oil flows in a thin stream, it means that the level has not been exceeded, so carefully inspect the surface of the grenade shaft and also run your finger along it. Any scratch indicates that the part needs to be replaced, because even the best seal will not be able to effectively hold oil if there are burrs, scratches or other defects on the shaft.

Measure the thickness of the grenade shaft in the area of the oil seal; it should be exactly 35 mm; if the shaft is larger or smaller, it will be impossible to eliminate the leak in the Kalina gearbox. A larger shaft will quickly destroy the seal, and a thin one will not provide the required tightness, so the CV joint, as well as the seal, will have to be replaced.

Pull the seal out of its seat and turn it back towards you. There is an arrow showing the correct direction of shaft rotation. If it does not correspond to the actual direction, it means that during installation at least one of the seals was reversed.

Having established the cause, replace the defective part, then add a little oil and after 10–50 km check whether the oil leaks have disappeared. If there are no new drips, it means you did everything correctly, otherwise you need to check everything again and then carefully inspect the seal seat. Its defect is extremely rare, but sometimes occurs. If there are cracks or scratches on the seat, then the manual transmission housing needs to be repaired or replaced.

Lada Kalina hatchback Amphetamine™ › Logbook › Gearbox: Changing the gear selector rod oil seal

Through long and complex research in a top-secret laboratory, it turned out that the gear selection oil seal (the “rocker” oil seal) had given in... and the transmission quietly, little by little, but constantly, went into protection and then into the ground. “Looking into tomorrow” it became clear that this cannot continue for long, it is necessary to change:

Unscrew the rod and the rocker...:

...and the first surprise - having pulled the boot a little away from the gearbox housing, oil rushed out of it, probably 200-300 grams just leaked out:

It’s good that the substrate was laid in advance, otherwise they would have added a link and a cardan for 3.14):

Because The oil was almost all gone, and the boot was getting in the way a lot, so I threw it away:

Next it was necessary to unscrew and remove the cardan:

And the **** there)), still can’t get to it. In the end, somehow (I didn’t understand how) I turned it a little with the cap, then completely unscrewed it and removed the cardan:

Then the only thing left to do is to knock out (carefully) the “bucket” from the gearbox, in which this unfortunate oil seal is located. As it turned out, there was no oil seal in it... it was on the gearbox rod, that is, it was stupidly knocked out of its seat... so and such rivers of oil flowed.

Before all this crap, on the advice of KalinAklubnikov, I bought not one oil seal, but two: Kalinovsky and eight-wheel:

And the duster is also unforgotten:

I did not shorten the springs on the seals, because... if I had gone to remove them, I would definitely have messed up and torn them, from experience, it was...nah, I don’t want to)). I just carefully pressed the Kalinovsky one in first, and then pressed it down with an eight-piece... in size they are just like:

Sealant on the “buckle” from the outside and put everything in the reverse order, replenishing the loss of oil from the gearbox. Nothing complicated, though there is one point: adjusting the rocker so that the speeds turn on normally. Before removing it, someone puts a mark on the driveshaft, and then follows it puts on the drawstring, I completely missed this point, I didn’t put marks, I did it according to the ABC book: when putting the drawstring on the cardan, you need to leave a 13-15 mm gap between them. I didn’t climb there with a ruler, I just measured 1.5 cm using a match and set it up like this...well, you understand, in general, who regulated it)):

But no, not everything, I don’t remember, someone was wondering why the block below was covered in oil. Answer: dry crankcase gas hoses and a rubber seal on the dipstick. 1.5 or 2 years ago I changed everything, this is how it is at the moment, relatively clean:

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Pamir Highway 2016, adventure on the belly. Part 3

Hello Pikabutians!!!! I used to often sit on the forum of our Udmurtia, who knows, it’s called the Markov forum. A year ago I liked one story, I want to share it with you. Here is part 1 https://pikabu.ru/story/pamirskiy_trakt_2016_avantyura_na_pu... here is 2 https://pikabu.ru/story/pamirskiy_trakt_2016_avantyura_na_pu... Further from the author's words. Let's continue...... …..

I arrived at the Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border on the seventh day of the trip (05/06/2016). The money changer with somoni caught me before entering the checkpoint. The rate is 10 to 1 (for 10 rubles they give one somoni). The Uzbek border guard inspecting the car turned out to be not a very pleasant guy, but did not cause any discomfort. He made jokes below the belt about Tajiks and donkeys. As far as I understand, Tajiks and Uzbeks are a little on edge. Including due to the construction of a new hydroelectric power station on the territory of Tajikistan, which will directly affect the Uzbeks.

At the Tajik border (as well as at the Uzbek border), it was necessary to fill out a declaration: imported currency, etc. The car was not inspected at all. The border guards were more interested in what kind of car it was, engine size and other technical details. I will observe the same thing throughout almost the entire movement through beautiful Tajikistan. Upon entry you must pay a transport tax of $30. It turned out that my car was actually the first tourist car this season (according to them), so they only charged me $5.

Tajikistan is beautiful not only because of its nature, but also because of the attitude of its people. Russians are loved and remembered there. In Dushanbe you feel hospitality immediately. While I was looking for the OVIR (you can only stay without registration for three days - weekends don’t count), I met taxi driver Nurik, who found an apartment where to spend the night and took me to the OVIR in the morning, and helped me do registration and passes in GBAO. Registration at a state hotel cost 200 somoni per person - very godly. And passes to GBAO were made for 90 somoni for two (at first they took 200, but the boss, who returned from the meeting, said that everything should be done normally and most of the money was returned). I managed to do all this on Saturday before lunch (this is how the OVIR works). Otherwise, we would have to sit in Dushanbe until Tuesday. However, you could go and see Varzob

The pass is a small ticket.

Registration is even more lackluster.

There is Gazprom in Tajikistan. But the prices for 95th will be unusual for a Russian person (56 rubles per liter).

There is a nice park in Dushanbe, where roses grow like our dandelions. There are mountains around. Beautiful, overall.

There are also no ambushes on country roads. There are many cameras in populated areas. Almost all of the minibuses are Starex. On the Pamir highway itself, Hyundai Terracan and Kruzaks of the entire model range operate as taxis. In general, Tajiks are very fond of old Opels (about the same love for old Germans is observed in Kazakh Uralsk, but there the palette is wider). There are countless of them skating.

The taxi driver advised me to go through Kulyab. There is an excellent road there, built by the Chinese. But it is 200 km longer, and secondly, it is more interesting to cross the pass.

There was one problematic ford and foolishly opening the driver's door I poured a little water into the cabin, but everything ended well.

Common occurrence:

I'm going to the pass:

I'm coming up from down there

The pass itself is small. But in general you have to go through it in first or second gear. And it's worth it.

An indignant traffic cop stopped me in front of Tavildara: “Why are you rushing past the post??” He demanded to show him a first aid kit, a sign and a fire extinguisher. Rushing there means driving 40 kilometers per hour. When overcoming the pass we also had to trim the wheels. This will have to be done many times both on the Pamir highway itself and in Kyrgyzstan, since very good areas alternate with completely destroyed ones. But it's really worth it. The loss of time for bleeding and resupplying is small.

Since the choice of place to spend the night when driving along a mountain serpentine road is very limited, I went several times to ask the owner for permission to spend the night on his site. Once I set up a tent among fruit trees. The second time a very positive grandfather dragged me into the house. One of the rooms was completely free. He fed and gave him something to drink both in the evening and in the morning. He told me to definitely visit him on my next trip.

Soon the road approaches Pyanj and for a long time, all the way to Khorog, you have to drive along the border with Afghanistan. Afghan villages are right on the opposite bank, just a stone's throw away.

The road along the rocks is quite narrow. Often you have to drive away with a lot of Chinese trucks.

How does a small car behave at such a height? Drives normally. Up to 3500-3800 power loss is not felt at all. Problems with it become noticeable if you climb a frankly steep hill - 15-20%. The car just stalls. This is understandable. I myself caught short of breath when I chased a groundhog with my camera

Ak-Baital drove in first and second gears. After passing it there is an overpass below. Drove it in and inspected it. Everything is okay. Let's move on. As it turned out, it’s already very close to the border with Kyrgyzstan.

There is a little bad weather at the Kyzyl-Art pass, cloudy, humid and cold. It is closed in winter.

Argali, symbolically marking the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Everything went quickly and smoothly with the Tajiks at the border. Again, they didn’t look at the car. 10 minutes later I was driving through neutral territory. The road is quite rough in places. I think if I were traveling from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan, I would have to tinker here in places.

Kirgizov took a little longer. I was prepared in advance for all sorts of extortion and knew in advance about the tricks and all the paperwork. But everything went smoothly. I only paid special attention to drug control. But even then it’s more for show. The sniffing service dog just sat there. He asked how much the car cost and how much I earn. Pretended to be a poor student. There is no point in cutting my hair. OK. The stamp has been placed on the foreign passport, we move on.

And here, after descending from the pass, I took my breath away.

Gorgeous views opened up. Including at the peak of Lenin. Immediately I met some guys from Ukraine who seemed to be riding a Peugeot expert. Crew of eight plus a dog. It turned out that they had a problem with the engine, and they rebuilt it on their knees. And on the fourth day they run it in. It seems that they were also planning to head towards the Pamirs, but a breakdown ruined all plans.

It was already late afternoon, and I wanted to take a closer look at Lenin Peak. I went towards the village of Sary-Tash. Following the same tactics, I went to ask the locals if it was possible to put up a tent. They dragged me into the house. They said that I would be detained in the tent. Again they fed and watered us. The Kyrgyz are also very hospitable people. Nice.

In the store in the morning I exchanged somoni for local soms. The course is not very good, but oh well. The weather was not good, the mountain was almost invisible at all, so I decided to go to Osh. Stopped in Osh for lunch. And again they didn’t take the money. I exchanged more money at a more adequate rate and headed to Bishkek. In one of the local villages I bought a SIM card for the operator “O!” with prepaid internet. It cost around 250 soms.

Asphalt up to the intersection on Sary-Tash with small holes, but to the village itself and further towards Osh is simply ideal. This initially created a misleading impression that everything is fine with roads in Kyrgyzstan.

Kyrgyz people actively vote on the roads. And they look very offended if you don’t stop. Okay, I stopped. “Bishkek, Bishkek?” I say: “There is no room.” They look at me like a sheep at a new gate and clearly there is a complete lack of understanding of how this place doesn’t exist. There are things in the back, of course, but not up to the ceiling, you can fit lying down. I also noticed that cars with our license plates were driving around with all their might, obviously with Kyrgyz people inside and without “RUS” stickers. Apparently this is a show-off among the locals, I don’t know. They drive well. They actively cut corners in turns, like the Tajiks, but sometimes they come across very wild ones. You need to be alert. He goes to overtake head-on and still blinks at you to give way. Well, or, for example, you definitely need to overtake you when the herd of sheep is 30 meters away. By the way, insurance is not needed. Just like the Tajiks.

The Kyrgyz cops left a nasty impression. They tried to trick me into drinking. They asked to breathe and smelled some kind of fumes that they knew only. I knew about this trick and took it calmly, but it was still unpleasant. These assholes stop you only to extract money from you, and not because there are real reasons. You fight with them and waste time. Our traffic police officers are just bunnies compared to them.

The Kyrgyz gas stations are also doing well: we have our Gazprom and KyrgyzMunai. I also got the impression that the Kyrgyz are very fond of station wagons. The Mercedes station wagons alone were simply darkness. So that I can see at least one in the Russian Federation: well, maybe I have seen one. And I don’t remember where.

If in Tajikistan it’s common to see fat-tailed sheep on the roads, then in Kyrgyzstan it’s all horses.

The road to Osh is tolled; they charge five dollars per car. OK. Paid. The asphalt seems okay. Soon the Toktogul reservoir appeared. Kyrgyz Sea

In Toktogul itself I met Chelyabinsk jumpers. Well, how I met you. I saw an Elka on the side of the road. And then I found other cars nearby. I didn’t communicate with the guys themselves. I decided not to troll them. Apparently, their route was an incomplete version of mine.

Unfortunately, due to restrictions, I still have to cut part 4. I wanted to keep it to 3, but it didn’t work out. so see you my 12 subscribers tomorrow.

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EvgenChizh

4 years ago

Long idle time of the car

Good day, dear ones. A technical question has arisen regarding a car that has been sitting in a garage for a long time (8 years). Namely, what needs to be replaced, checked first and last, in order to try to bring the patient to his senses. In the absence of experience, I turn to experts.

Actually the car itself:

VAZ-2104 (2007 release)

Injector. 1.5l petrol

Mileage – 7000 km.

I would be grateful for any advice.

Perhaps this kind of message is not accepted here, then I apologize in advance.

WoodenCraft

10 months ago

Select the vehicle modification to search for the manual transmission oil seal

Lada Kalina 1117 1117 Station wagon 1.4 16V 90 hp id31253 Engine: volume - 1.4 liters, power - 90 hp, type - petrol, model - VAZ-11194. Drive: front. Year of manufacture: 2008-present. time
Lada Kalina 1117 1117 Station wagon 1.4 16V LPG 88 hp id32057 Engine: volume - 1.4 liters, power - 88 hp, type - petrol, model - VAZ-11194. Drive: front. Year of manufacture: 2008-present. time
Lada Kalina 1117 1117 Station wagon 1.6 82 hp id26658 Engine: volume - 1.6 liters, power - 82 hp, type - petrol, model - VAZ-21114. Drive: front. Year of manufacture: 2004-present time
Lada Kalina 1117 1117 Station wagon 1.6 84 hp id11574 Engine: volume - 1.6 liters, power - 84 hp, type - petrol, model - VAZ1110. Drive: front. Year of manufacture: 2010-present time
Lada Kalina 1117 1117 Station wagon EL 82 hp id112005 Engine: power - 82 hp, type - electric motor. Drive: front. Year of release: 2013-present time

In the next step, for an expanded selection, you can enter the vehicle's Vin code to go to illustrated catalogs, where you can find the layout of parts down to the bolt and duplicates that are not in the catalog of analogues.

Notes from a car service #2

Perhaps he can still be saved?

-How do you imagine the machine working on such a disk?

-Well, I don’t know, you are experts, come up with something...

Hi all. Another working day brought another story to the collection of my channel Notes from a Car Service Center.

On Monday (when most people were leaving the holiday) our station was working at full capacity. We don't have time to rest, there's too much recording and a lot of work. But let's get to the point)

And now, at 10:00, the legendary VAZ Four is drawn to us. Problem: strange smell in the cabin (I think you can guess what), the speed does not turn on.

Next, a painfully familiar procedure begins. We remove the starter, disassemble the lever in the cabin and remove the box. Unscrew the clutch basket and voila...

And things are not going well with the flywheel crown.

We show the clutch disc to the client and the fun begins.

(M-master, K-client)

M – Not bad, you skidded somewhere.

K - Who? I? No, what are you talking about? I drove the car in the evening, but in the morning the speed would no longer turn on.

I don’t know why, but many clients deny their guilt until the very end, as if they will be scolded for it.

M - It’s just like that, the disk cannot fall apart, everything happened due to strong slipping.

Well, yes, in the evening I skidded in a ditch and revved up the gas a little.

Maybe the disk can still be saved?

M - how do you imagine working on such a disk?

K- Well, I don’t know. You are experts, come up with something. And in general, I don’t have the money to buy spare parts right now.

In general, we tried for a long time to explain that the clutch disc needed to be changed, but the client resisted for a long time, coming up with excuses.

M- Well then you will have to park the car and until you buy the disk, it will remain parked.

The client's face changed dramatically. With his gaze he wanted to smash us all to pieces.

Half an hour later he brought a new disc, but still looked askance, as if we were to blame for something.

Thank you for watching!

Notes from a car service - https://zen.yandex.ru/rybakoff

Show in full 2

Alex2T

1 year ago